Tips tranquilitytheascent - Revision history

Romain672: /* When playing bridges and playing next to bridges */ +2 advanced tips

2025-12-07T15:32:33Z

When playing bridges and playing next to bridges: +2 advanced tips

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:32, 7 December 2025
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	===When playing bridges and playing next to bridges===		===When playing bridges and playing next to bridges===
	Bridges can be particularly valuable for opening up the board for your teammates. But remember that they need to be covered eventually! The cost to cover a bridge is the greater of the two differences (between each anchor and the cover), so don’t play a right-hand anchor that’s too far from the left-hand anchor. A good rule of thumb is that the cost to cover a bridge is AT LEAST half of the difference between the two anchors (round up). Ideally, the right-hand anchor should be something that’s 0-2 away from the left-anchor, 3-4 is also usually OK, but it is pretty hard to justify 5+. Also, the cover can't be the same color as either anchor, so it is easier to cover the bridge if the anchors are the same color (when you can arrange it).		Bridges can be particularly valuable for opening up the board for your teammates. But remember that they need to be covered eventually! The cost to cover a bridge is the greater of the two differences (between each anchor and the cover), so don’t play a right-hand anchor that’s too far from the left-hand anchor. A good rule of thumb is that the cost to cover a bridge is AT LEAST half of the difference between the two anchors (round up). Ideally, the right-hand anchor should be something that’s 0-2 away from the left-anchor, 3-4 is also usually OK, but it is pretty hard to justify 5+. Also, the cover can't be the same color as either anchor, so it is easier to cover the bridge if the anchors are the same color (when you can arrange it).

			(advanced) There is a situational play mostly on the first line when per example you played lots of 9/8/7s to start the game, and someone played a red7 then a bridge, and you have two 1s or multiple lows, you can play a low red card like 1red, and fill the bridge later on with a 4 and 3 discards.

			Another weird play mostly in the last 'column' after a bridge is to play a really bad card, that you will move up later on with a campfire.
	== Deciding Between Possible Plays ==		== Deciding Between Possible Plays ==
	As a rule-of-thumb, a play costing 0-1 cards is good, 2 is OK, 3 is pushing it (but if you have a good reason...), and 4 is pretty outrageous. How do you pick the best play?		As a rule-of-thumb, a play costing 0-1 cards is good, 2 is OK, 3 is pushing it (but if you have a good reason...), and 4 is pretty outrageous. How do you pick the best play?

TensorosneT: touching up the language and organization

2025-06-05T17:00:20Z

touching up the language and organization

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:00, 5 June 2025
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	===Keep good plays available on the board===		===Keep good plays available on the board===
	Ideally, you want to have a set of rows to play into such that any number could be played into some row with a cost of 2 or less. This doesn't really happen, but it is a useful concept to strive for. For example, if the rightmost cards of two playable rows are 3 and 9, then the numbers from 1~5 and 7~11 are playable. In that situation, if you have the opportunity to start a new row, starting it with a number outside those ranges (a 6 or 12) is preferable to starting with a number inside those ranges (although 1, 5, 7, and 11 are also good candidates). There will inevitably be bottlenecks during play; don't fret too much about it, just do what you can to minimize them.		Ideally, you want to have a set of rows to play into such that any number could be played into some row with a cost of 2 or less. This doesn't really happen, but it is a useful concept to strive for. For example, if the rightmost cards of two playable rows are 3 and 9, then the numbers from 1~5 and 7~11 are playable. In that situation, if you have the opportunity to start a new row, starting it with a number outside those ranges (a 6 or 12) is preferable to starting with a number inside those ranges (although 1, 5, 7, and 11 are also good candidates). There will inevitably be bottlenecks during play; don't fret too much about it, just do what you can to minimize them.
	===~~Watch what~~ your teammates ~~do on their turns~~===		===Keep an eye on your teammates ===
	Sometimes you can get ~~some~~ useful information ~~out of this~~. E.g. if your teammate discards for several turns before playing, there is a good chance their cards are clustered so that they ~~can~~ play a similar number on their next turn. So you might want to play to keep a play near that number available. Keeping on eye on teammate plays is more important with fewer players.		This is especially important when the number of cards remaining to each player is unbalanced. If you find that you have far more cards then your teammates, you may need to step up and make some more expensive plays in order to subsidize their plays--push yourself to make a wider variety of plays available on the board. Remember, if '''anyone''' on your team runs out of cards, its game over for the whole team.
	===~~Playing~~ bridges and playing next to bridges===
	Bridges can be particularly valuable for opening up the board for your teammates. But remember that they need to be covered eventually! The cost to cover a bridge is the greater of the two differences (between each anchor and the cover), so don’t play a right-hand anchor that’s too far from the left-hand anchor. A good rule of thumb is that the cost to cover a bridge is AT LEAST half of the difference between the two anchors (round up). Ideally, the right-hand anchor should be something that’s 0-2 away from the left-anchor, 3-4 is also usually OK, but it is pretty hard to justify 5+. Also, the cover can't be the same color as either anchor, so it is easier to cover the bridge if the anchors are the same color.		Sometimes you can get useful information by watching your teammates' turns. E.g. if your teammate discards for several turns before playing, there is a good chance their cards are clustered so that, once they do play, they may be able to play a similar number on their next turn. So you might want to play to keep a play near that number available. Keeping on eye on teammate plays is more important with fewer players.
	==Make the cheapest plays possible ==		===When playing bridges and playing next to bridges===
	If you can play a matching number card, this is generally a good idea! Other zero-cost plays should be made with a bit more caution; keep in mind what your play implies for future plays. Especially when you play on the right-hand side of a bridge or the first tile of a new level, you want to consider how your play fits with the previous guiding principles, especially keeping good plays available on the board for your teammates.		Bridges can be particularly valuable for opening up the board for your teammates. But remember that they need to be covered eventually! The cost to cover a bridge is the greater of the two differences (between each anchor and the cover), so don’t play a right-hand anchor that’s too far from the left-hand anchor. A good rule of thumb is that the cost to cover a bridge is AT LEAST half of the difference between the two anchors (round up). Ideally, the right-hand anchor should be something that’s 0-2 away from the left-anchor, 3-4 is also usually OK, but it is pretty hard to justify 5+. Also, the cover can't be the same color as either anchor, so it is easier to cover the bridge if the anchors are the same color (when you can arrange it).
			== Deciding Between Possible Plays ==
			As a rule-of-thumb, a play costing 0-1 cards is good, 2 is OK, 3 is pushing it (but if you have a good reason...), and 4 is pretty outrageous. How do you pick the best play?
			=== Teamwork is priority one ===
			That's why I put that section first instead of this one. If any of your teammates can't make it to the finish line, you lose. So be mindful of what your moves may cost your teammates. At the beginning and near the end, there will naturally be fewer plays available, so moves that make more numbers playable are especially valuable! Making or keeping the board friendly to your team should always be on your mind--unless you are the one who may run out of cards before anyone else!
			=== Make the cheapest plays possible ===
			If you can play a matching number card, this is generally a good idea! Other zero-cost plays (bridges, anchors on bridges, & starting a new row) should be made with a bit more caution; keep in mind what your play implies for future plays. Especially when you play on the right-hand side of a bridge or the first tile of a new level, you want to consider how your play fits with the previous guiding principles, especially keeping good plays available on the board for your teammates.
			If you are the one who may run out of cards and cause your team to fail, then being a team player almost certainly means making the absolute cheapest play possible. If you have a choice between cheapest plays, go with the one that will help you (and your teammates) make future plays.
	=== Low numbers on low levels===		=== Low numbers on low levels===
	Ideally, low numbers get played on low levels and so on up the pyramid. But don't force it; there are 72 number tiles and 39 places for them in the structure--as many as half the numbered tiles won't be in the finished structure (if all three campfires are played)! So don't worry if you use all the 1s and 2s for discards. Also, generally, having a board with more playable numbers is more important than squeezing low values into the structure.		Ideally, low numbers get played on low levels and so on up the pyramid. But don't force it; there are 72 number tiles and 39 places for them in the structure--as many as half the numbered tiles won't be in the finished structure (if all three campfires are played)! So don't worry if you use all the 1s and 2s for discards. Also, generally, having a board with more playable numbers is more important than squeezing low values into the structure.

TensorosneT: removed emphases on title line

2025-06-01T20:30:49Z

removed emphases on title line

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:30, 1 June 2025
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	= ~~<u><big>~~Guiding Principles when choosing plays~~</big></u>~~ ___NOTOC___ =		= Guiding Principles when choosing plays ___NOTOC___ =

	== Consider the implications for the team. ==		== Consider the implications for the team. ==

TensorosneT: minor tweaks to verbiage and some formatting changes

2025-06-01T20:29:46Z

minor tweaks to verbiage and some formatting changes

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:29, 1 June 2025
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	~~'''~~<u><big>Guiding Principles when choosing plays</big></u>~~'''~~		= <u><big>Guiding Principles when choosing plays</big></u> ___NOTOC___ =
	~~___NOTOC___~~
	== ~~'''~~Consider the implications for the team.~~'''~~ ==		== Consider the implications for the team. ==
	This is a co-op game, so you don’t get points for having a high card count at the end when one of your teammates runs out of cards. Keep in mind the effect your plays will have on your teammates. Specifically ...		This is a co-op game, so you don’t get points for having a high card count at the end when one of your teammates runs out of cards. Keep in mind the effect your plays will have on your teammates. Specifically ...
	=== ~~'''Keeping~~ good plays available on the board~~'''~~ ===		===Keep good plays available on the board===
	Ideally, you want to have a set of rows to play into such that any number could be played into some row with a cost of 2 or less. This doesn't really happen, but it is a useful concept to strive for. For example, if the rightmost cards of two playable rows are 3 and 9, then the numbers from 1~5 and 7~11 are playable. In that situation, if you have the opportunity to start a new row, starting it with a number outside those ranges (a 6 or 12) is preferable to starting with a number inside those ranges (although 1, 5, 7, and 11 are also good candidates). There will inevitably be bottlenecks during play; don't fret too much about it, just do what you can to minimize them.		Ideally, you want to have a set of rows to play into such that any number could be played into some row with a cost of 2 or less. This doesn't really happen, but it is a useful concept to strive for. For example, if the rightmost cards of two playable rows are 3 and 9, then the numbers from 1~5 and 7~11 are playable. In that situation, if you have the opportunity to start a new row, starting it with a number outside those ranges (a 6 or 12) is preferable to starting with a number inside those ranges (although 1, 5, 7, and 11 are also good candidates). There will inevitably be bottlenecks during play; don't fret too much about it, just do what you can to minimize them.
	=== ~~'''What~~ your teammates do on their turns~~'''~~ ===		===Watch what your teammates do on their turns===
	Sometimes you can get some useful information out of this. E.g. if your teammate discards for several turns before playing, there is a good chance their cards are clustered so that they can play a similar number on their next turn. So you might want to ~~work so assure than row doesn't drift too far from their cluster~~. Keeping on eye on teammate plays is more important with fewer players.		Sometimes you can get some useful information out of this. E.g. if your teammate discards for several turns before playing, there is a good chance their cards are clustered so that they can play a similar number on their next turn. So you might want to play to keep a play near that number available. Keeping on eye on teammate plays is more important with fewer players.
	=== ~~'''~~Playing bridges and playing next to bridges~~'''~~ ===		===Playing bridges and playing next to bridges===
	Bridges can be particularly valuable for opening up the board for your teammates. But remember that they need to be covered eventually ~~and the~~ cost ~~will be~~ the greater of the two differences, so don’t play a ~~number~~ that’s too far from the left-hand anchor. Ideally, the right-hand anchor should be something that’s 0-2 away from the left-anchor, 3-4 is also usually OK, but it is pretty hard to justify 5+. If the ~~anchors are~~ the same color, it is easier to cover the bridge.		Bridges can be particularly valuable for opening up the board for your teammates. But remember that they need to be covered eventually! The cost to cover a bridge is the greater of the two differences (between each anchor and the cover), so don’t play a right-hand anchor that’s too far from the left-hand anchor. A good rule of thumb is that the cost to cover a bridge is AT LEAST half of the difference between the two anchors (round up). Ideally, the right-hand anchor should be something that’s 0-2 away from the left-anchor, 3-4 is also usually OK, but it is pretty hard to justify 5+. Also, the cover can't be the same color as either anchor, so it is easier to cover the bridge if the anchors are the same color.
	== ~~'''~~Make the cheapest plays possible~~'''~~ ==		==Make the cheapest plays possible ==
	If you can play a matching number card, this is generally a good idea! Other zero-cost plays should be made with a bit more caution; keep in mind what your play implies for future plays. Especially when you play on the right-hand side of a bridge or the first tile of a new level, you want to consider how your play fits with the previous guiding principles, especially keeping good plays available for your teammates.		If you can play a matching number card, this is generally a good idea! Other zero-cost plays should be made with a bit more caution; keep in mind what your play implies for future plays. Especially when you play on the right-hand side of a bridge or the first tile of a new level, you want to consider how your play fits with the previous guiding principles, especially keeping good plays available on the board for your teammates.
	=== Low numbers on low levels ===		=== Low numbers on low levels===
	Ideally, low numbers get played on low levels and so on up the pyramid. But don't force it; there are 72 number tiles and 39 places for them in the structure~~. So~~ as many as half the numbered tiles won't be in the finished structure (if all three campfires are played)~~, so~~ don't worry if you use all the 1s and 2s for discards. Also, generally, having more playable numbers is more important than squeezing low values into the structure.		Ideally, low numbers get played on low levels and so on up the pyramid. But don't force it; there are 72 number tiles and 39 places for them in the structure--as many as half the numbered tiles won't be in the finished structure (if all three campfires are played)! So don't worry if you use all the 1s and 2s for discards. Also, generally, having a board with more playable numbers is more important than squeezing low values into the structure.
	== ~~'''~~Discards~~'''~~ ==		==Discards==
	in general, you want to discard less useful cards over more useful ones. All else being equal, discarding low numbers is preferable to high ones and discarding 1s and 12s is preferable to numbers closer to the middle. But … what makes a useful card can be different depending on what the board looks like! So keep in mind cards ~~that~~ might become useful by the time your next turn rolls around.		in general, you want to discard less useful cards over more useful ones. All else being equal, discarding low numbers is preferable to high ones and discarding 1s and 12s is preferable to numbers closer to the middle. But … what makes a useful card can be different depending on what the board looks like! So keep in mind which cards might become useful by the time your next turn rolls around.
	== ~~'''~~Peaks~~'''~~ ==		==Peaks==
	peaks can make good discards, but you’ll lose if all the peaks get discarded. To be absolutely safe, your team can adopt a strategy of only discarding a peak when you have a duplicate peak. If your team is 2-4 players, then each player can safely discard one peak before falling back to the only-when-holding-a-duplicate rule (with 2 players, each could safely discard 2 peaks).		peaks can make good discards, but you’ll lose if all the peaks get discarded. To be absolutely safe, your team can adopt a strategy of only discarding a peak when you have a duplicate peak. If your team is 2-4 players, then each player can safely discard one peak before falling back to the only-when-holding-a-duplicate rule (with 2 players, each could safely discard 2 peaks).
	== ~~'''~~Campfires~~'''~~ ==		==Campfires==
	are particularly useful in the late game, when you’ve got lots of previously played cards to ~~draw from~~. But you probably don’t want to discard 2 to hold a campfire for later if you have a good play you can make with it now.		are particularly useful in the late game, when you’ve got lots of previously played cards to make use of. But you probably don’t want to discard 2 to hold a campfire for later if you have a good play you can make with it now.
	== ~~'''~~Tile distribution~~'''~~ ==		==Tile distribution ==
	There are two tiles with each number in each of the three colors, for a total of 72 numbered tiles. Also 3 campfire tiles, 5 bridge tiles and 5 peak tiles. Looking over the played tiles can give you an idea of what may be left in the deck (except for other players' hands and discards, which you don't see). This can be helpful when opening a new row late in the game, trying to cover a particularly troublesome bridge, or deciding whether to use a campfire.		There are two tiles with each number in each of the three colors, for a total of 72 numbered tiles. Also 3 campfire tiles, 5 bridge tiles and 5 peak tiles. Looking over the played tiles can give you an idea of what may be left in the deck (except for other players' hands and discards, which you don't see). This can be helpful when opening a new row late in the game, trying to cover a particularly troublesome bridge, or deciding whether to use a campfire.

TensorosneT: more formatting

2025-05-30T16:56:24Z

more formatting

← Older revision		Revision as of 18:56, 30 May 2025
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	'''<u><big>Guiding Principles when choosing plays</big></u>'''		'''<u><big>Guiding Principles when choosing plays</big></u>'''
			___NOTOC___
	#'''Consider the implications for the team.''' This is a co-op game, so you don’t get points for having a high card count at the end when one of your teammates runs out of cards. Keep in mind the effect your plays will have on your teammates. ~~'''~~Specifically ~~think about~~ ...~~'''~~		== '''Consider the implications for the team.''' ==
	#*'''~~Keep~~ good plays available on the board.''' Ideally, you want to have a set of rows to play into such that any number could be played into some row with a cost of 2 or less. This doesn't really happen, but it is a useful concept to strive for. For example, if the rightmost cards of two playable rows are 3 and 9, then the numbers from 1~5 and 7~11 are playable. In that situation, if you have the opportunity to start a new row, starting it with a number outside those ranges (a 6 or 12) is preferable to starting with a number inside those ranges (although 1, 5, 7, and 11 are also good candidates). There will inevitably be bottlenecks during play; don't fret too much about it, just do what you can to minimize them.		This is a co-op game, so you don’t get points for having a high card count at the end when one of your teammates runs out of cards. Keep in mind the effect your plays will have on your teammates. Specifically ...
	#*'''What your teammates do on their turns''' ~~-- sometimes~~ you can get some useful information out of this. E.g. if your teammate discards for several turns before playing, there is a good chance their cards are clustered so that they can play a similar number on their next turn. So you might want to work so assure than row doesn't drift too far from their cluster. Keeping on eye on teammate plays is more important with fewer players.		=== '''Keeping good plays available on the board''' ===
	#*'''Playing bridges and playing next to bridges.''' Bridges can be particularly valuable for opening up the board for your teammates. But remember that they need to be covered eventually and the cost will be the greater of the two differences, so don’t play a number that’s too far from the left-hand anchor. Ideally, the right-hand anchor should be something that’s 0-2 away from the left-anchor, 3-4 is also usually OK, but it is pretty hard to justify 5+. If the anchors are the same color, it is easier to cover the bridge.		Ideally, you want to have a set of rows to play into such that any number could be played into some row with a cost of 2 or less. This doesn't really happen, but it is a useful concept to strive for. For example, if the rightmost cards of two playable rows are 3 and 9, then the numbers from 1~5 and 7~11 are playable. In that situation, if you have the opportunity to start a new row, starting it with a number outside those ranges (a 6 or 12) is preferable to starting with a number inside those ranges (although 1, 5, 7, and 11 are also good candidates). There will inevitably be bottlenecks during play; don't fret too much about it, just do what you can to minimize them.
	#'''Make the cheapest plays possible''' ~~– if~~ you can play a matching number card, this is generally a good idea! Other zero-cost plays should be made with a bit more caution; keep in mind what your play implies for future plays. Especially when you play on the right-hand side of a bridge or the first tile of a new level, you want to consider how your play fits with the previous guiding principles, especially keeping good plays available for your teammates.		=== '''What your teammates do on their turns''' ===
	#*Ideally, low numbers get played on low levels and so on up the pyramid. But don't force it; there are 72 number tiles and 39 places for them in the structure. ~~33-36~~ numbered tiles won't be in the finished structure (~~depending on the number of~~ campfires played), so don't worry if you use all the 1s and 2s for discards. Also, generally, having more playable numbers is more important than squeezing low values into the structure.		Sometimes you can get some useful information out of this. E.g. if your teammate discards for several turns before playing, there is a good chance their cards are clustered so that they can play a similar number on their next turn. So you might want to work so assure than row doesn't drift too far from their cluster. Keeping on eye on teammate plays is more important with fewer players.
	#'''Discards''' – in general, you want to discard less useful cards over more useful ones. All else being equal, discarding low numbers is preferable to high ones and discarding 1s and 12s is preferable to numbers ~~that have more close numbers~~. But … what makes a useful card can be different depending on what the board looks like! So keep in mind cards that might become useful by the time your next turn rolls around.		=== '''Playing bridges and playing next to bridges''' ===
	#'''Peaks''' – peaks can make good discards, but you’ll lose if all the peaks get discarded. To be absolutely safe, your team can adopt a strategy of only discarding a peak when you have a duplicate peak. If your team is 2-4 players, then each player can safely discard one peak before falling back to the only-when-holding-a-duplicate rule (with 2 players, each could safely discard 2 peaks).		Bridges can be particularly valuable for opening up the board for your teammates. But remember that they need to be covered eventually and the cost will be the greater of the two differences, so don’t play a number that’s too far from the left-hand anchor. Ideally, the right-hand anchor should be something that’s 0-2 away from the left-anchor, 3-4 is also usually OK, but it is pretty hard to justify 5+. If the anchors are the same color, it is easier to cover the bridge.
	#'''Campfires''' – are particularly useful in the late game, when you’ve got lots of previously played cards to draw from. But you probably don’t want to discard 2 to hold a campfire for later if you have a good play you can make with it now.		== '''Make the cheapest plays possible''' ==
	#'''Tile distribution''' -- There are two tiles with each number in each of the three colors, for a total of 72 numbered tiles. Also 3 campfire tiles, 5 bridge tiles and 5 peak tiles. Looking over the played tiles can give you an idea of what may be left in the deck (except for other players' hands and discards, which you don't see). This can be helpful when opening a new row late in the game, trying to cover a particularly troublesome bridge, or deciding whether to use a campfire.		If you can play a matching number card, this is generally a good idea! Other zero-cost plays should be made with a bit more caution; keep in mind what your play implies for future plays. Especially when you play on the right-hand side of a bridge or the first tile of a new level, you want to consider how your play fits with the previous guiding principles, especially keeping good plays available for your teammates.
			=== Low numbers on low levels ===
			Ideally, low numbers get played on low levels and so on up the pyramid. But don't force it; there are 72 number tiles and 39 places for them in the structure. So as many as half the numbered tiles won't be in the finished structure (if all three campfires are played), so don't worry if you use all the 1s and 2s for discards. Also, generally, having more playable numbers is more important than squeezing low values into the structure.
			== '''Discards''' ==
			in general, you want to discard less useful cards over more useful ones. All else being equal, discarding low numbers is preferable to high ones and discarding 1s and 12s is preferable to numbers closer to the middle. But … what makes a useful card can be different depending on what the board looks like! So keep in mind cards that might become useful by the time your next turn rolls around.
			== '''Peaks''' ==
			peaks can make good discards, but you’ll lose if all the peaks get discarded. To be absolutely safe, your team can adopt a strategy of only discarding a peak when you have a duplicate peak. If your team is 2-4 players, then each player can safely discard one peak before falling back to the only-when-holding-a-duplicate rule (with 2 players, each could safely discard 2 peaks).
			== '''Campfires''' ==
			are particularly useful in the late game, when you’ve got lots of previously played cards to draw from. But you probably don’t want to discard 2 to hold a campfire for later if you have a good play you can make with it now.
			== '''Tile distribution''' ==
			There are two tiles with each number in each of the three colors, for a total of 72 numbered tiles. Also 3 campfire tiles, 5 bridge tiles and 5 peak tiles. Looking over the played tiles can give you an idea of what may be left in the deck (except for other players' hands and discards, which you don't see). This can be helpful when opening a new row late in the game, trying to cover a particularly troublesome bridge, or deciding whether to use a campfire.

TensorosneT: formatting

2025-05-30T16:35:09Z

formatting

← Older revision		Revision as of 18:35, 30 May 2025
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	Guiding Principles		'''<u><big>Guiding Principles when choosing plays</big></u>'''

	# Consider the implications for the team. This is a co-op game, so you don’t get points for having a high card count at the end when one of your teammates runs out of cards. Keep in mind the effect your plays will have on your teammates.		#'''Consider the implications for the team.''' This is a co-op game, so you don’t get points for having a high card count at the end when one of your teammates runs out of cards. Keep in mind the effect your plays will have on your teammates. '''Specifically think about ...'''
			#*'''Keep good plays available on the board.''' Ideally, you want to have a set of rows to play into such that any number could be played into some row with a cost of 2 or less. This doesn't really happen, but it is a useful concept to strive for. For example, if the rightmost cards of two playable rows are 3 and 9, then the numbers from 1~5 and 7~11 are playable. In that situation, if you have the opportunity to start a new row, starting it with a number outside those ranges (a 6 or 12) is preferable to starting with a number inside those ranges (although 1, 5, 7, and 11 are also good candidates). There will inevitably be bottlenecks during play; don't fret too much about it, just do what you can to minimize them.
	#* Ideally, you want to have a set of rows to play into such that any number could be played into some row with a cost of 2 or less. This doesn't really happen, but it is a useful concept to strive for. For example, if the rightmost cards of two playable rows are 3 and 9, then the numbers from 1~5 and 7~11 are playable. In that situation, if you have the opportunity to start a new row, starting it with a number outside those ranges (a 6 or 12) is preferable to starting with a number inside those ranges (although 1, 5, 7, and 11 are also ~~pretty~~ good candidates). There will inevitably be bottlenecks during play; don't fret too much about it, just do what you can to minimize them.		#*'''What your teammates do on their turns''' -- sometimes you can get some useful information out of this. E.g. if your teammate discards for several turns before playing, there is a good chance their cards are clustered so that they can play a similar number on their next turn. So you might want to work so assure than row doesn't drift too far from their cluster. Keeping on eye on teammate plays is more important with fewer players.
			#*'''Playing bridges and playing next to bridges.''' Bridges can be particularly valuable for opening up the board for your teammates. But remember that they need to be covered eventually and the cost will be the greater of the two differences, so don’t play a number that’s too far from the left-hand anchor. Ideally, the right-hand anchor should be something that’s 0-2 away from the left-anchor, 3-4 is also usually OK, but it is pretty hard to justify 5+. If the anchors are the same color, it is easier to cover the bridge.
	#* ~~Pay attention to teammate~~ turns -- sometimes you can get some useful information out of this. E.g. if your teammate discards for several turns before playing, there is a good chance their cards are clustered so that they can play a similar number on their next turn. So you might want to work so assure than row doesn't drift too far from their cluster. Keeping on eye on teammate plays is more important with fewer players.		#'''Make the cheapest plays possible''' – if you can play a matching number card, this is generally a good idea! Other zero-cost plays should be made with a bit more caution; keep in mind what your play implies for future plays. Especially when you play on the right-hand side of a bridge or the first tile of a new level, you want to consider how your play fits with the previous guiding principles, especially keeping good plays available for your teammates.
			#*Ideally, low numbers get played on low levels and so on up the pyramid. But don't force it; there are 72 number tiles and 39 places for them in the structure. 33-36 numbered tiles won't be in the finished structure (depending on the number of campfires played), so don't worry if you use all the 1s and 2s for discards. Also, generally, having more playable numbers is more important than squeezing low values into the structure.
	#* Bridges can be particularly valuable for opening up the board for your teammates. But remember that they need to be covered eventually and the cost will be the greater of the two differences, so don’t play a number that’s too far from the left-hand anchor. Ideally, the right-hand anchor should be something that’s 0-2 away from the left-anchor, 3-4 is also usually OK, but it is pretty hard to justify 5+. If the anchors are the same color, it is easier to cover the bridge.		#'''Discards''' – in general, you want to discard less useful cards over more useful ones. All else being equal, discarding low numbers is preferable to high ones and discarding 1s and 12s is preferable to numbers that have more close numbers. But … what makes a useful card can be different depending on what the board looks like! So keep in mind cards that might become useful by the time your next turn rolls around.
			#'''Peaks''' – peaks can make good discards, but you’ll lose if all the peaks get discarded. To be absolutely safe, your team can adopt a strategy of only discarding a peak when you have a duplicate peak. If your team is 2-4 players, then each player can safely discard one peak before falling back to the only-when-holding-a-duplicate rule (with 2 players, each could safely discard 2 peaks).
	# Make the cheapest plays possible – if you can play a ~~zero cost~~ card, this is generally a good idea! ~~But if you’re going to~~ play on the right-hand side of a bridge or the first tile ~~into~~ a new level, you want to consider how your play fits with the previous guiding principles.		#'''Campfires''' – are particularly useful in the late game, when you’ve got lots of previously played cards to draw from. But you probably don’t want to discard 2 to hold a campfire for later if you have a good play you can make with it now.
			#'''Tile distribution''' -- There are two tiles with each number in each of the three colors, for a total of 72 numbered tiles. Also 3 campfire tiles, 5 bridge tiles and 5 peak tiles. Looking over the played tiles can give you an idea of what may be left in the deck (except for other players' hands and discards, which you don't see). This can be helpful when opening a new row late in the game, trying to cover a particularly troublesome bridge, or deciding whether to use a campfire.
	#* Ideally, low numbers get played on low levels and so on up the pyramid. But ~~you~~ don't ~~need to~~ force it; there are 72 number tiles and 39 places for them in the structure, so don't ~~fret too much~~ if you use all the 1s and 2s for discards. Also, generally, having more playable numbers is more important than squeezing low values into the structure.

	# Discards – in general, you want to discard less useful cards over more useful ones. All else being equal, discarding low numbers is preferable to high ones and discarding 1s and 12s is preferable to numbers that have more close numbers. But … what makes a useful card can be different depending on what the board looks like! So keep in mind cards that might become useful by the time your next turn rolls around.

	# Peaks – peaks can make good discards, but you’ll lose if all the peaks get discarded. To be absolutely safe, your team can adopt a strategy of only discarding a peak when you have a duplicate peak. If your team is 2-4 players, then each player can safely discard one peak before falling back to the only-when-holding-a-duplicate rule (with ~~two~~ players, each could safely discard 2 peaks).

	# Campfires – are particularly useful in the late game, when you’ve got lots of previously played cards to draw from. But you probably don’t want to discard 2 to hold a campfire for later if you have a good play you can make with it now.

	# Tile distribution -- There are two tiles with each number in each of the three colors. Looking over the played tiles can give you an idea of what may be left in the deck (except for other players' discards, which you don't see). This can be helpful when trying to cover a particularly troublesome bridge or deciding whether to use a campfire.

TensorosneT at 06:54, 30 May 2025

2025-05-30T06:54:31Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 08:54, 30 May 2025
Line 2:		Line 2:

	# Consider the implications for the team. This is a co-op game, so you don’t get points for having a high card count at the end when one of your teammates runs out of cards. Keep in mind the effect your plays will have on your teammates.		# Consider the implications for the team. This is a co-op game, so you don’t get points for having a high card count at the end when one of your teammates runs out of cards. Keep in mind the effect your plays will have on your teammates.

	#* Ideally, you want to have a set of rows to play into such that any number could be played into some row with a cost of 2 or less. This doesn't really happen, but it is a useful concept to strive for. For example, if the rightmost cards of two playable rows are 3 and 9, then the numbers from 1~5 and 7~11 are playable. In that situation, if you have the opportunity to start a new row, starting it with a number outside those ranges (a 6 or 12) is preferable to starting with a number inside those ranges (although 1, 5, 7, and 11 are also pretty good candidates). There will inevitably be bottlenecks during play; don't fret too much about it, just do what you can to minimize them.		#* Ideally, you want to have a set of rows to play into such that any number could be played into some row with a cost of 2 or less. This doesn't really happen, but it is a useful concept to strive for. For example, if the rightmost cards of two playable rows are 3 and 9, then the numbers from 1~5 and 7~11 are playable. In that situation, if you have the opportunity to start a new row, starting it with a number outside those ranges (a 6 or 12) is preferable to starting with a number inside those ranges (although 1, 5, 7, and 11 are also pretty good candidates). There will inevitably be bottlenecks during play; don't fret too much about it, just do what you can to minimize them.

	#* Pay attention to teammate turns -- sometimes you can get some useful information out of this. E.g. if your teammate discards for several turns before playing, there is a good chance their cards are clustered so that they can play a similar number on their next turn. So you might want to work so assure than row doesn't drift too far from their cluster. Keeping on eye on teammate plays is more important with fewer players.		#* Pay attention to teammate turns -- sometimes you can get some useful information out of this. E.g. if your teammate discards for several turns before playing, there is a good chance their cards are clustered so that they can play a similar number on their next turn. So you might want to work so assure than row doesn't drift too far from their cluster. Keeping on eye on teammate plays is more important with fewer players.

	#* Bridges can be particularly valuable for opening up the board for your teammates. But remember that they need to be covered eventually and the cost will be the greater of the two differences, so don’t play a number that’s too far from the left-hand anchor. Ideally, the right-hand anchor should be something that’s 0-2 away from the left-anchor, 3-4 is also usually OK, but it is pretty hard to justify 5+. If the anchors are the same color, it is easier to cover the bridge.		#* Bridges can be particularly valuable for opening up the board for your teammates. But remember that they need to be covered eventually and the cost will be the greater of the two differences, so don’t play a number that’s too far from the left-hand anchor. Ideally, the right-hand anchor should be something that’s 0-2 away from the left-anchor, 3-4 is also usually OK, but it is pretty hard to justify 5+. If the anchors are the same color, it is easier to cover the bridge.

	# Make the cheapest plays possible – if you can play a zero cost card, this is generally a good idea! But if you’re going to play on the right-hand side of a bridge or the first tile into a new level, you want to consider how your play fits with the previous guiding principles.		# Make the cheapest plays possible – if you can play a zero cost card, this is generally a good idea! But if you’re going to play on the right-hand side of a bridge or the first tile into a new level, you want to consider how your play fits with the previous guiding principles.
	#* Ideally, low numbers get played on low levels and so on up the pyramid. But you don't need to force it; there are 72 number tiles and 39 places for them in the structure, so don't fret too much if you use all the 1s and 2s for discards. Also, generally, having more playable numbers is more important than squeezing low values ~~only~~ the structure.
			#* Ideally, low numbers get played on low levels and so on up the pyramid. But you don't need to force it; there are 72 number tiles and 39 places for them in the structure, so don't fret too much if you use all the 1s and 2s for discards. Also, generally, having more playable numbers is more important than squeezing low values into the structure.

	# Discards – in general, you want to discard less useful cards over more useful ones. All else being equal, discarding low numbers is preferable to high ones and discarding 1s and 12s is preferable to numbers that have more close numbers. But … what makes a useful card can be different depending on what the board looks like! So keep in mind cards that might become useful by the time your next turn rolls around.		# Discards – in general, you want to discard less useful cards over more useful ones. All else being equal, discarding low numbers is preferable to high ones and discarding 1s and 12s is preferable to numbers that have more close numbers. But … what makes a useful card can be different depending on what the board looks like! So keep in mind cards that might become useful by the time your next turn rolls around.

	# Peaks – peaks can make good discards, but you’ll lose if all the peaks get discarded. To be absolutely safe, your team can adopt a strategy of only discarding a peak when you have a duplicate peak. If your team is 2-4 players, then each player can safely discard one peak before falling back to the only-when-holding-a-duplicate rule (with two players, each could safely discard 2 peaks).		# Peaks – peaks can make good discards, but you’ll lose if all the peaks get discarded. To be absolutely safe, your team can adopt a strategy of only discarding a peak when you have a duplicate peak. If your team is 2-4 players, then each player can safely discard one peak before falling back to the only-when-holding-a-duplicate rule (with two players, each could safely discard 2 peaks).

	# Campfires – are particularly useful in the late game, when you’ve got lots of previously played cards to draw from. But you probably don’t want to discard 2 to hold a campfire for later if you have a good play you can make with it now.		# Campfires – are particularly useful in the late game, when you’ve got lots of previously played cards to draw from. But you probably don’t want to discard 2 to hold a campfire for later if you have a good play you can make with it now.
	# Tile distribution -- There are two tiles with each number in each of the three colors. Looking over the played tiles can give you an idea of what may be left in the deck (except for other players' discards, which you don't see). This can be ~~particularly~~ helpful when trying to cover a particularly troublesome bridge or deciding whether to use a campfire.
			# Tile distribution -- There are two tiles with each number in each of the three colors. Looking over the played tiles can give you an idea of what may be left in the deck (except for other players' discards, which you don't see). This can be helpful when trying to cover a particularly troublesome bridge or deciding whether to use a campfire.

TensorosneT: Incorporated existing tips into a more comprehensive framework with grammar and stuff.

2025-05-30T03:47:35Z

Incorporated existing tips into a more comprehensive framework with grammar and stuff.

← Older revision		Revision as of 05:47, 30 May 2025
Line 1:		Line 1:
	~~The game is extremely situational. Before playing any card try to see what you can do with your hand.~~		Guiding Principles

	~~You~~ want ~~at best~~ to have ~~lines which cover most range~~ of ~~numbers~~. For example, if the rightmost ~~card~~ of ~~a line is~~ 3 and ~~another is~~ 9, ~~you have~~ the ~~ranges~~ from 1~5 and 7~11, ~~which means~~ starting a ~~line with~~ a 6 or a ~~12 has more value~~.		# Consider the implications for the team. This is a co-op game, so you don’t get points for having a high card count at the end when one of your teammates runs out of cards. Keep in mind the effect your plays will have on your teammates.
	~~Looking at the tiles already played~~, you can sometimes ~~deduce which numbers~~ are ~~in most copies in decks~~.		#* Ideally, you want to have a set of rows to play into such that any number could be played into some row with a cost of 2 or less. This doesn't really happen, but it is a useful concept to strive for. For example, if the rightmost cards of two playable rows are 3 and 9, then the numbers from 1~5 and 7~11 are playable. In that situation, if you have the opportunity to start a new row, starting it with a number outside those ranges (a 6 or 12) is preferable to starting with a number inside those ranges (although 1, 5, 7, and 11 are also pretty good candidates). There will inevitably be bottlenecks during play; don't fret too much about it, just do what you can to minimize them.
	At 2 or 3 ~~players~~, ~~when~~ you ~~start~~ a ~~line~~, ~~try~~ to ~~have another~~ tile to play ~~next to it~~.		#* Pay attention to teammate turns -- sometimes you can get some useful information out of this. E.g. if your teammate discards for several turns before playing, there is a good chance their cards are clustered so that they can play a similar number on their next turn. So you might want to work so assure than row doesn't drift too far from their cluster. Keeping on eye on teammate plays is more important with fewer players.
	~~Try to put~~ low ~~value~~ on ~~lines (since~~ you ~~can~~'t ~~play low value~~ in ~~high line) but~~ don't ~~force it~~, having ~~different ranges~~ is ~~usually better~~.		#* Bridges can be particularly valuable for opening up the board for your teammates. But remember that they need to be covered eventually and the cost will be the greater of the two differences, so don’t play a number that’s too far from the left-hand anchor. Ideally, the right-hand anchor should be something that’s 0-2 away from the left-anchor, 3-4 is also usually OK, but it is pretty hard to justify 5+. If the anchors are the same color, it is easier to cover the bridge.
			# Make the cheapest plays possible – if you can play a zero cost card, this is generally a good idea! But if you’re going to play on the right-hand side of a bridge or the first tile into a new level, you want to consider how your play fits with the previous guiding principles.
	~~After a bridge~~, ~~there~~ is ~~value~~ on ~~putting~~ the ~~same color just after~~ the ~~bridge (easier to fill the bridge)~~, ~~especially~~ if the ~~numbers are far from each other~~. ~~It's possible to play an 11red after~~ a ~~5red and~~ a ~~bridge:~~ when you ~~will play~~ a 8 to ~~fill~~ the ~~bridge~~, ~~you will~~ discard 3 cards. ~~Note: it's not advised, so~~ you ~~should have strong reasons~~ to ~~do it.~~		#* Ideally, low numbers get played on low levels and so on up the pyramid. But you don't need to force it; there are 72 number tiles and 39 places for them in the structure, so don't fret too much if you use all the 1s and 2s for discards. Also, generally, having more playable numbers is more important than squeezing low values only the structure.
			# Discards – in general, you want to discard less useful cards over more useful ones. All else being equal, discarding low numbers is preferable to high ones and discarding 1s and 12s is preferable to numbers that have more close numbers. But … what makes a useful card can be different depending on what the board looks like! So keep in mind cards that might become useful by the time your next turn rolls around.
	~~If your opponent discards a lot~~ to ~~play~~ a ~~tile or started a new line, there is an high chance they got~~ a ~~similar number to~~ play ~~next to~~ it. ~~Especially~~ with 2 players if you don't ~~have the same number and you~~ can ~~let them have one turn~~ to ~~play it, it's great~~.		# Peaks – peaks can make good discards, but you’ll lose if all the peaks get discarded. To be absolutely safe, your team can adopt a strategy of only discarding a peak when you have a duplicate peak. If your team is 2-4 players, then each player can safely discard one peak before falling back to the only-when-holding-a-duplicate rule (with two players, each could safely discard 2 peaks).
			# Campfires – are particularly useful in the late game, when you’ve got lots of previously played cards to draw from. But you probably don’t want to discard 2 to hold a campfire for later if you have a good play you can make with it now.
			# Tile distribution -- There are two tiles with each number in each of the three colors. Looking over the played tiles can give you an idea of what may be left in the deck (except for other players' discards, which you don't see). This can be particularly helpful when trying to cover a particularly troublesome bridge or deciding whether to use a campfire.

VioletFire33: Editing and Grammar

2023-03-10T05:05:31Z

Editing and Grammar

← Older revision		Revision as of 07:05, 10 March 2023
Line 1:		Line 1:
	The game is extremely ~~situationnal, before~~ playing any card, try to see what you can do with your hand.		The game is extremely situational. Before playing any card try to see what you can do with your hand.

	You want at best to have lines which cover most range of numbers. ~~Per~~ example if the rightmost card of a line is 3 and another is 9, you ~~kinda~~ have the ranges from 1~5 and 7~11, which ~~mean~~ starting a line with a 6 or a 12 has more value.		You want at best to have lines which cover most range of numbers. For example, if the rightmost card of a line is 3 and another is 9, you have the ranges from 1~5 and 7~11, which means starting a line with a 6 or a 12 has more value.
	Looking at the tiles already played, you can sometimes deduce which numbers are in most copies in decks.		Looking at the tiles already played, you can sometimes deduce which numbers are in most copies in decks.
	At 2 or 3 players, when you start a line, try to have another tile to play next to it.		At 2 or 3 players, when you start a line, try to have another tile to play next to it.
	Try to put low value on lines (since you can't play low value in high line) but don't force it, having different ranges is usually better.		Try to put low value on lines (since you can't play low value in high line) but don't force it, having different ranges is usually better.

	After a bridge, there is value on putting the same color just after the bridge (easier to fill the bridge), especially if the numbers are far from each other. It's possible to play an 11red after a 5red and a bridge: when you will play a 8 to fill the bridge, you will discard 3 cards. Note it's not advised, so you should have strong reasons to do it.		After a bridge, there is value on putting the same color just after the bridge (easier to fill the bridge), especially if the numbers are far from each other. It's possible to play an 11red after a 5red and a bridge: when you will play a 8 to fill the bridge, you will discard 3 cards. Note: it's not advised, so you should have strong reasons to do it.

	If your opponent ~~discard~~ a lot to play a tile or started a new line, there is an high chance he got a similar number to play next to it. Especially at 2 players, if you don't have the same number and you can let ~~him~~ have one turn to play it, it's great.		If your opponent discards a lot to play a tile or started a new line, there is an high chance they got a similar number to play next to it. Especially with 2 players if you don't have the same number and you can let them have one turn to play it, it's great.

Romain672: typo

2022-12-17T13:20:38Z

typo

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:20, 17 December 2022
Line 4:		Line 4:
	Looking at the tiles already played, you can sometimes deduce which numbers are in most copies in decks.		Looking at the tiles already played, you can sometimes deduce which numbers are in most copies in decks.
	At 2 or 3 players, when you start a line, try to have another tile to play next to it.		At 2 or 3 players, when you start a line, try to have another tile to play next to it.
	Try to put low value on lines (since you can play low value in high line) but don't force it, having different ranges is usually better.		Try to put low value on lines (since you can't play low value in high line) but don't force it, having different ranges is usually better.

	After a bridge, there is value on putting the same color just after the bridge (easier to fill the bridge), especially if the numbers are far from each other. It's possible to play an 11red after a 5red and a bridge: when you will play a 8 to fill the bridge, you will discard 3 cards. Note it's not advised, so you should have strong reasons to do it.		After a bridge, there is value on putting the same color just after the bridge (easier to fill the bridge), especially if the numbers are far from each other. It's possible to play an 11red after a 5red and a bridge: when you will play a 8 to fill the bridge, you will discard 3 cards. Note it's not advised, so you should have strong reasons to do it.

	If your opponent discard a lot to play a tile or started a new line, there is an high chance he got a similar number to play next to it. Especially at 2 players, if you don't have the same number and you can let him have one turn to play it, it's great.		If your opponent discard a lot to play a tile or started a new line, there is an high chance he got a similar number to play next to it. Especially at 2 players, if you don't have the same number and you can let him have one turn to play it, it's great.