Tips tigriseuphrates - Revision history

Gakato: /* First moves */ fixed minor mistakes

2023-02-13T11:40:42Z

First moves: fixed minor mistakes

← Older revision		Revision as of 13:40, 13 February 2023
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	=== Starting points ===		=== Starting points ===

	The starting temples traditionally considered “good” are F3, F9 and N5. In four-player games, the last player to start usually has to get a bit creative and either squeeze in between two kingdoms or distribute ~~his kings~~ around.		The starting temples traditionally considered “good” are F3, F9 and N5. In four-player games, the last player to start usually has to get a bit creative and either squeeze in between two kingdoms or distribute their leaders around.

	If you want to start in the middle of things and create a bit of pressure right away, I7 is the place to go.		If you want to start in the middle of things and create a bit of pressure right away, I7 is the place to go.

	Starting on the four corner temples (B2, B8, O2 and P2) is rarely a good idea: they are cramped and their treasures get picked first, leaving them vulnerable to a catastrophe. If you do have to start out there, make sure to place an additional temple for support, at least.		Starting on the four corner temples (B2, B8, O9 and P2) is rarely a good idea: they are cramped and their treasures get picked first, leaving them vulnerable to a catastrophe. If you do have to start out there, make sure to place an additional temple for support, at least.

	The temple on N5 is right next to the only spot where you can build a monument from blue tiles, hence it is sometimes called the “water temple”. With some blue tiles in hand, placing a blue leader here can pay off nicely.		The temple on N5 is right next to the only spot where you can build a monument from blue tiles, hence it is sometimes called the “water temple”. With some blue tiles in hand, placing a blue leader here can pay off nicely.

Hafergulden: /* Things to keep in mind */

2022-08-09T14:39:55Z

Things to keep in mind

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:39, 9 August 2022
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	* The game finishes instantly when you try to redraw from an empty tile bag. This means you won’t score points from monuments, which comes at the end of your turn.		* The game finishes instantly when you try to redraw from an empty tile bag. This means you won’t score points from monuments, which comes at the end of your turn.

	(This is the rule from the original edition of the board game. It discourages swapping tiles to finish the game early. The first publisher, Hans im Glück, changed it after a year or two. With the new rule you always got to finish your turn and score monuments, which made forcing an early finish a common move. Later editions reverted back to the original rule. If you’re used to the ~~“sudden death”~~ rule, be prepared for a longer end-game.)		(This is the rule from the original edition of the board game. It discourages swapping tiles to finish the game early. The first publisher, Hans im Glück, changed it after a year or two. With the new rule you always got to finish your turn and score monuments, which made forcing an early finish a common move. Later editions and the BGA implementation reverted back to the original rule. If you’re used to the other rule, be prepared for a longer and more convoluted end-game.)

	== A final thought ==		== A final thought ==

Hafergulden: /* Things to keep in mind */ Game ending

2022-08-09T14:27:05Z

Things to keep in mind: Game ending

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:27, 9 August 2022
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	* You cannot join three kingdoms in one action.		* You cannot join three kingdoms in one action.
	* Also, you cannot place a leader where he would connect two kingdoms.		* Also, you cannot place a leader where he would connect two kingdoms.
	* Keep an eye on the number of treasures. The game ends as soon as the number of treasures drops below 3, which can come as a rude surprise.

	“Joining kingdoms” here means both with or without a war; a kingdom is any number of tiles with at least one leader attached. This means when you remove a leader from the middle of a kingdom, splitting it into two now unconnected kingdoms, you’re not allowed to rejoin the two halves with a leader in the same place.		(“Joining kingdoms” here means both with or without a war; a kingdom is any number of tiles with at least one leader attached. This means when you remove a leader from the middle of a kingdom, splitting it into two now unconnected kingdoms, you’re not allowed to rejoin the two halves with a leader in the same place.)

			* Keep an eye on the number of treasures. The game ends when the number of treasures drops below 3, which can come as a rude surprise.
			* The game finishes instantly when you try to redraw from an empty tile bag. This means you won’t score points from monuments, which comes at the end of your turn.

			(This is the rule from the original edition of the board game. It discourages swapping tiles to finish the game early. The first publisher, Hans im Glück, changed it after a year or two. With the new rule you always got to finish your turn and score monuments, which made forcing an early finish a common move. Later editions reverted back to the original rule. If you’re used to the “sudden death” rule, be prepared for a longer end-game.)

	== A final thought ==		== A final thought ==

Hafergulden: Slight revision, undo of editing error

2022-08-07T14:50:00Z

Slight revision, undo of editing error

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:50, 7 August 2022
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	The classic oldschool opening is putting your green and black leaders on the same temple, at right angles. In the second turn reinforce them with a red tile in the space between them to form a little 2x2 square with each leader flanked by two temples. (Green and black are the two leaders with a special function, so it’s a good idea to get them on the board early on.)		The classic oldschool opening is putting your green and black leaders on the same temple, at right angles. In the second turn reinforce them with a red tile in the space between them to form a little 2x2 square with each leader flanked by two temples. (Green and black are the two leaders with a special function, so it’s a good idea to get them on the board early on.)

	Red and green is another good starting combination. (Having an opponent’s ~~read~~ leader in a kingdom you’re trying to fortify can be very vexing.)		Red and green is another good starting combination. (Having an opponent’s red leader in a kingdom you’re trying to fortify can be very vexing.)

	It’s perfectly reasonable to keep some leaders off the board for quite a while if you want to get out more tiles in the beginning (instead of wasting a turn each on placing a leader – having two more tiles out in the early game can make a huge difference) or want to preserve your leaders from battles they cannot win. This last bit is important: As soon as wars become possible, you’ll need some tiles to defend your leaders or they become easy prey.		It’s perfectly reasonable to keep some leaders off the board for quite a while if you want to get out more tiles in the beginning (instead of wasting a turn each on placing a leader – having two more tiles out in the early game can make a huge difference) or want to preserve your leaders from battles they cannot win. This last bit is important: As soon as wars become possible, you’ll need some tiles to defend your leaders or they become easy prey.
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	The temple on N5 is right next to the only spot where you can build a monument from blue tiles, hence it is sometimes called the “water temple”. With some blue tiles in hand, placing a blue leader here can pay off nicely.		The temple on N5 is right next to the only spot where you can build a monument from blue tiles, hence it is sometimes called the “water temple”. With some blue tiles in hand, placing a blue leader here can pay off nicely.

	=== ~~Rogue~~ leaders ===		=== Stray leaders ===

	You don’t need to keep all your leaders together – instead, you can put some, or all, in different kingdoms. This can be good way of cramping your opponents’ style. Temples with treasure make great homes for ~~annoyance~~ leaders, since they’re catastrophe proof.		You don’t need to keep all your leaders together in one flock – instead, you can put some, or all, in different kingdoms. This can be good way of cramping your opponents’ style. Temples with treasure make great homes for stray leaders, since they’re catastrophe proof.

	However, doing this often means underusing that leader, and coordinating moves with leaders in several kingdoms can be a pain, since you’re constantly relying on other players not messing up your plans. On the other hand, controlling just one, strong colour in a kingdom means you can gladly start wars in that colour and not care about the kingdom falling apart once you have reaped your victory points.		However, doing this often means underusing that leader, and coordinating moves with leaders in several kingdoms can be a pain, since you’re constantly relying on other players not messing up your plans. On the other hand, controlling just one, strong colour in a kingdom means you can gladly start wars in that colour and not care about the kingdom falling apart once you have reaped your victory points.

	The best way of dealing with a rogue leader is often patience. If you can’t catastrophise him but plan to get rid of him some time in the future, hem him in with some tiles on adjacent squares to prevent the building of supporting temples. The be patient until you can kick him out with a revolt. Sometimes you can use a convenient enemy kingdom that’s strong in that leader’s colour to start a war and blast him out of your kingdom.		The best way of dealing with a rogue leader is often patience. If you can’t catastrophise him but plan to get rid of him some time in the future, hem him in with some tiles on adjacent squares to prevent the building of supporting temples. The be patient until you can kick him out with a revolt. Sometimes you can use a convenient enemy kingdom that’s strong in that leader’s colour to start a war and blast him out of your kingdom.

			Mind you, a stray leader is not necessarily a bad thing. If, say, you’re building a kingdom centred around your priest and trader, and then another player jumps in with his farmer and starts adding in a wodge of blue tiles in addition to your red and green ones, that kingdom can very quickly become a force to be reckoned with, in all three colours.

	== Kingdom construction ==		== Kingdom construction ==
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	Look for such breaking points in enemy kingdoms and exploit them to split them up and defeat their leaders one by one. Keep your own leaders well connected to their supporters. Rivers with their blue tiles are a natural breaking point.		Look for such breaking points in enemy kingdoms and exploit them to split them up and defeat their leaders one by one. Keep your own leaders well connected to their supporters. Rivers with their blue tiles are a natural breaking point.

			When you go for redundancy by building two connecting pillars of tiles, make sure you don’t put the same colours in both files where one lost war would disconnect both at the same time.

	Temples with leaders attached are more durable than other tiles and useful for connecting colours and leaders.		Temples with leaders attached are more durable than other tiles and useful for connecting colours and leaders.
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	== Catastrophes ==		== Catastrophes ==

	Placing a catastrophe is an action that will not earn you any points in itself. ~~They’re~~ usually most useful ~~for winning~~ crucial war or revolt by splitting off a vulnerable part of your target. Beware of creating a back-and-forth where your opponent can simply place a single tile to bridge the damage and hit back with a catastrophe of his own ~~in the same turn~~.		Placing a catastrophe is an action that will not earn you any points in itself nor help you cycle through your tiles– it is not an efficient move. It is, however, a great opportunity to get creative when you need to block or slow down a move, banish a weakly supported leader or prune a kingdom. Catastrophes are usually most useful in a crucial war or revolt, by splitting off a vulnerable part of your target. Beware of creating a back-and-forth where your opponent can in the same turn simply place a single tile to bridge the damage and hit back with a catastrophe of his own.

	Once you’ve ~~spent all two~~ your opponents can allow themselves a great deal more freedom in approaching you. Having no more catastrophes left feels a bit like being a toothless tiger.		Don’t hoard your catastrophes, but don’t spend them carelessly, either. Once you’ve fired both barrels, your opponents can allow themselves a great deal more freedom in approaching you. Having no more catastrophes left feels a bit like being a toothless tiger.

	== Things to keep in mind ==		== Things to keep in mind ==
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	== Links ==		== Links ==

	If you want more than the ~~few~~ hints in this quick guide, take a look at this annotated game over on Board Game Geek. It’s a game log with commentary, full of valuable insights and lessons; taking the time to think through each move and then playing a few games yourself will get you up to speed very quickly.		If you want more than the basic hints in this quick guide, take a look at this annotated game over on Board Game Geek. It’s a game log with commentary, full of valuable insights and lessons; taking the time to think through each move and then playing a few games yourself will get you up to speed very quickly.

	https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/170187/annotated-game-part-1		https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/170187/annotated-game-part-1
Line 142:		Line 146:
	https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/170597/annotated-game-part-2		https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/170597/annotated-game-part-2

	Then there is this discussion thread on strategy – more recent and much ~~more~~ shorter than the above:		Then there is this discussion thread on strategy – more recent and much shorter than the above:

	https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/2893767/two-and-half-experts-discuss-tigris-euphrates-stra		https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/2893767/two-and-half-experts-discuss-tigris-euphrates-stra

Hafergulden: slightly expanded (wip)

2022-08-07T14:30:06Z

slightly expanded (wip)

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:30, 7 August 2022
Line 9:		Line 9:
	The classic oldschool opening is putting your green and black leaders on the same temple, at right angles. In the second turn reinforce them with a red tile in the space between them to form a little 2x2 square with each leader flanked by two temples. (Green and black are the two leaders with a special function, so it’s a good idea to get them on the board early on.)		The classic oldschool opening is putting your green and black leaders on the same temple, at right angles. In the second turn reinforce them with a red tile in the space between them to form a little 2x2 square with each leader flanked by two temples. (Green and black are the two leaders with a special function, so it’s a good idea to get them on the board early on.)

	Red and green is another good starting combination. (Having an opponent’s ~~red~~ leader in a kingdom you’re trying to fortify can be very vexing.)		Red and green is another good starting combination. (Having an opponent’s read leader in a kingdom you’re trying to fortify can be very vexing.)

	It’s perfectly reasonable to keep some leaders off the board for quite a while if you want to get out more tiles in the beginning (instead of wasting a turn each on placing a leader – having two more tiles out in the early game can make a huge difference) or want to preserve your leaders from battles they cannot win. This last bit is important: As soon as wars become possible, you’ll need some tiles to defend your leaders or they become easy prey.		It’s perfectly reasonable to keep some leaders off the board for quite a while if you want to get out more tiles in the beginning (instead of wasting a turn each on placing a leader – having two more tiles out in the early game can make a huge difference) or want to preserve your leaders from battles they cannot win. This last bit is important: As soon as wars become possible, you’ll need some tiles to defend your leaders or they become easy prey.
Line 30:		Line 30:

	The best way of dealing with a rogue leader is often patience. If you can’t catastrophise him but plan to get rid of him some time in the future, hem him in with some tiles on adjacent squares to prevent the building of supporting temples. The be patient until you can kick him out with a revolt. Sometimes you can use a convenient enemy kingdom that’s strong in that leader’s colour to start a war and blast him out of your kingdom.		The best way of dealing with a rogue leader is often patience. If you can’t catastrophise him but plan to get rid of him some time in the future, hem him in with some tiles on adjacent squares to prevent the building of supporting temples. The be patient until you can kick him out with a revolt. Sometimes you can use a convenient enemy kingdom that’s strong in that leader’s colour to start a war and blast him out of your kingdom.

	Mind you, a rogue leader is not necessarily a bad thing. If, say, you’re building a kingdom centred around your priest and trader, and then another player jumps in with his farmer and starts adding in a wodge of blue tiles in addition to your red and green ones, that kingdom can very quickly become a force to be reckoned with, in all three colours.

	== Kingdom construction ==		== Kingdom construction ==
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	If you don’t have the right tiles, get rid of the tiles you have by starting a conflict (and making points!) or, in an emergency, by swapping some tiles. There is a school of thought holding that the more tiles you have cycling through your hand, the likelier your are to see the tiles you need.		If you don’t have the right tiles, get rid of the tiles you have by starting a conflict (and making points!) or, in an emergency, by swapping some tiles. There is a school of thought holding that the more tiles you have cycling through your hand, the likelier your are to see the tiles you need.

	== ~~Some notes on wars~~ ==		Same for tiles you no longer have a use for: When you find yourself as the defender in a hopeless war, say between black leaders, consider cutting your losses by reinforcing the lost conflict by throwing in all the black tiles you have. With your king gone, you won’t have any use for the tiles, but purging your hand means you can at least hope for a good redraw. Don’t blindly put your king back on the board and try to re-wage the lost war.

			== Wars ==

	Revolts often come out of the blue, but you can usually see a war coming. When one kingdom approaches another to within a distance of two fields, an attack becomes possible – two tiles is the distance you can cover in one turn. Consider going on the attack first, if you have the advantage in some colours.		Revolts often come out of the blue, but you can usually see a war coming. When one kingdom approaches another to within a distance of two fields, an attack becomes possible – two tiles is the distance you can cover in one turn. Consider going on the attack first, if you have the advantage in some colours.
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	When another kingdom approaches yours to within a single tile, alarm bells should ring. This is the critical distance, because an attacker can play a catastrophe and attack in the same turn. If your kingdom has a vulnerable spot, this can be devastating. It’s almost always a good idea to strike first in this situation.		When another kingdom approaches yours to within a single tile, alarm bells should ring. This is the critical distance, because an attacker can play a catastrophe and attack in the same turn. If your kingdom has a vulnerable spot, this can be devastating. It’s almost always a good idea to strike first in this situation.

	Early wars, like early monuments, can easily backfire. More tiles in the hand than on the board means they are unpredictable and offer few victory points. While it is true that a war lost early on can be devastating, the loser has the rest of the game to rebuild and can end up in a superior position if you don’t keep up the pressure. This often means a whole series of limited wars which leaves you no time to consolidate your overextended kingdom. Predictable wars also make you vulnerable to ambushes. This is a dastardly and underhand tactic which involves looking weak on the board while keeping three to four tile of the colour in question in your hand. Remember that the defender wins a draw – this is very valuable if you can entice an opponent to attack you.		Early wars, like early monuments, can easily backfire. More tiles in the hand than on the board means they are unpredictable and offer few victory points. While it is true that a war lost early on can be devastating, the loser has the rest of the game to rebuild and can end up in a superior position if you don’t keep up the pressure. This often means a whole series of limited wars which leaves you no time to consolidate your overextended kingdom. Predictable wars also make you vulnerable to ambushes. This is dastardly and underhand tactic which involves looking weak on the board while keeping three to four tile of the colour in question in your hand. Remember that the defender wins a draw – this is equal to having one free tile, and very valuable if you can entice an opponent to attack you.

			When a leader is hopelessly outnumbered or has already piled up a goodly heap of points in his colour, you may be better off leaving him off-board, where he is safe from conflicts.

	== Catastrophes ==		== Catastrophes ==

	Placing a catastrophe is an action that will not earn you any points in itself nor help you cycle through your tiles– it is not an efficient move. It is, however, a great opportunity to get creative when you need to block or slow down a move, banish a weakly supported leader or prune a kingdom. ~~Catastrophes are~~ usually most useful ~~in a~~ crucial war or revolt, by splitting off a vulnerable part of your target. Beware of creating a back-and-forth where your opponent can ~~in the same turn~~ simply place a single tile to bridge the damage and hit back with a catastrophe of his own.		Placing a catastrophe is an action that will not earn you any points in itself. They’re usually most useful for winning crucial war or revolt by splitting off a vulnerable part of your target. Beware of creating a back-and-forth where your opponent can simply place a single tile to bridge the damage and hit back with a catastrophe of his own in the same turn.

	~~Don’t hoard your catastrophes, but don’t spend them carelessly, either.~~ Once you’ve ~~fired both barrels,~~ your opponents can allow themselves a great deal more freedom in approaching you. Having no more catastrophes left feels a bit like being a toothless tiger.		Once you’ve spent all two your opponents can allow themselves a great deal more freedom in approaching you. Having no more catastrophes left feels a bit like being a toothless tiger.

	== Things to keep in mind ==		== Things to keep in mind ==
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	== Links ==		== Links ==

	If you want more than the ~~basic~~ hints in this quick guide, take a look at this annotated game over on Board Game Geek. It’s a game log with commentary, full of valuable insights and lessons; taking the time to think through each move and then playing a few games yourself will get you up to speed very quickly.		If you want more than the few hints in this quick guide, take a look at this annotated game over on Board Game Geek. It’s a game log with commentary, full of valuable insights and lessons; taking the time to think through each move and then playing a few games yourself will get you up to speed very quickly.

	https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/170187/annotated-game-part-1		https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/170187/annotated-game-part-1
Line 140:		Line 142:
	https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/170597/annotated-game-part-2		https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/170597/annotated-game-part-2

	Then there is this discussion thread on strategy – more recent and much shorter than the above:		Then there is this discussion thread on strategy – more recent and much more shorter than the above:

	https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/2893767/two-and-half-experts-discuss-tigris-euphrates-stra		https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/2893767/two-and-half-experts-discuss-tigris-euphrates-stra

Hafergulden: very slightly expanded (wip)

2022-08-03T13:30:23Z

very slightly expanded (wip)

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:30, 3 August 2022
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	The best way of dealing with a rogue leader is often patience. If you can’t catastrophise him but plan to get rid of him some time in the future, hem him in with some tiles on adjacent squares to prevent the building of supporting temples. The be patient until you can kick him out with a revolt. Sometimes you can use a convenient enemy kingdom that’s strong in that leader’s colour to start a war and blast him out of your kingdom.		The best way of dealing with a rogue leader is often patience. If you can’t catastrophise him but plan to get rid of him some time in the future, hem him in with some tiles on adjacent squares to prevent the building of supporting temples. The be patient until you can kick him out with a revolt. Sometimes you can use a convenient enemy kingdom that’s strong in that leader’s colour to start a war and blast him out of your kingdom.

			Mind you, a rogue leader is not necessarily a bad thing. If, say, you’re building a kingdom centred around your priest and trader, and then another player jumps in with his farmer and starts adding in a wodge of blue tiles in addition to your red and green ones, that kingdom can very quickly become a force to be reckoned with, in all three colours.

	== Kingdom construction ==		== Kingdom construction ==
Line 107:		Line 109:
	When another kingdom approaches yours to within a single tile, alarm bells should ring. This is the critical distance, because an attacker can play a catastrophe and attack in the same turn. If your kingdom has a vulnerable spot, this can be devastating. It’s almost always a good idea to strike first in this situation.		When another kingdom approaches yours to within a single tile, alarm bells should ring. This is the critical distance, because an attacker can play a catastrophe and attack in the same turn. If your kingdom has a vulnerable spot, this can be devastating. It’s almost always a good idea to strike first in this situation.

	Early wars, like early monuments, can easily backfire. More tiles in the hand than on the board means they are unpredictable and offer few victory points. While it is true that a war lost early on can be devastating, the loser has the rest of the game to rebuild and can end up in a superior position if you don’t keep up the pressure. This often means a whole series of limited wars which leaves you no time to consolidate your overextended kingdom. Predictable wars also make you vulnerable to ambushes. This is a dastardly and underhand tactic which involves looking weak on the board while keeping three to four tile of the colour in question in your hand. Remember that the defender wins a draw – this is ~~equal to having one free tile, and~~ very valuable if you can entice an opponent to attack you.		Early wars, like early monuments, can easily backfire. More tiles in the hand than on the board means they are unpredictable and offer few victory points. While it is true that a war lost early on can be devastating, the loser has the rest of the game to rebuild and can end up in a superior position if you don’t keep up the pressure. This often means a whole series of limited wars which leaves you no time to consolidate your overextended kingdom. Predictable wars also make you vulnerable to ambushes. This is a dastardly and underhand tactic which involves looking weak on the board while keeping three to four tile of the colour in question in your hand. Remember that the defender wins a draw – this is very valuable if you can entice an opponent to attack you.

	== Catastrophes ==		== Catastrophes ==

	Placing a catastrophe is an action that will not earn you any points in itself. ~~They’re~~ usually most useful ~~for winning~~ a crucial war or revolt by splitting off a vulnerable part of your target. Beware of creating a back-and-forth where your opponent can simply place a single tile to bridge the damage and hit back with a catastrophe of his own ~~in the same turn~~.		Placing a catastrophe is an action that will not earn you any points in itself nor help you cycle through your tiles– it is not an efficient move. It is, however, a great opportunity to get creative when you need to block or slow down a move, banish a weakly supported leader or prune a kingdom. Catastrophes are usually most useful in a crucial war or revolt, by splitting off a vulnerable part of your target. Beware of creating a back-and-forth where your opponent can in the same turn simply place a single tile to bridge the damage and hit back with a catastrophe of his own.

	Once you’ve ~~spent all two~~ your opponents can allow themselves a great deal more freedom in approaching you. Having no more catastrophes left feels a bit like being a toothless tiger.		Don’t hoard your catastrophes, but don’t spend them carelessly, either. Once you’ve fired both barrels, your opponents can allow themselves a great deal more freedom in approaching you. Having no more catastrophes left feels a bit like being a toothless tiger.

	== Things to keep in mind ==		== Things to keep in mind ==
Line 132:		Line 134:
	== Links ==		== Links ==

	If you want more than the ~~few~~ hints in this quick guide, take a look at this annotated game over on Board Game Geek. It’s a game log with commentary, full of valuable insights and lessons; taking the time to think through each move and then playing a few games yourself will get you up to speed very quickly.		If you want more than the basic hints in this quick guide, take a look at this annotated game over on Board Game Geek. It’s a game log with commentary, full of valuable insights and lessons; taking the time to think through each move and then playing a few games yourself will get you up to speed very quickly.

	https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/170187/annotated-game-part-1		https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/170187/annotated-game-part-1

Hafergulden: /* Links */

2022-08-01T19:49:31Z

Links

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:49, 1 August 2022
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	https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/170597/annotated-game-part-2		https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/170597/annotated-game-part-2

	Then there is this discussion thread on strategy – more recent and much ~~more~~ shorter than the above:		Then there is this discussion thread on strategy – more recent and much shorter than the above:

	https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/2893767/two-and-half-experts-discuss-tigris-euphrates-stra		https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/2893767/two-and-half-experts-discuss-tigris-euphrates-stra

Hafergulden: /* Catastrophes */

2022-08-01T19:48:15Z

Catastrophes

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:48, 1 August 2022
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	== Catastrophes ==		== Catastrophes ==

	Placing a catastrophe is an action that will not earn you any points in itself. They’re usually most useful for winning crucial war or revolt by splitting off a vulnerable part of your target. Beware of creating a back-and-forth where your opponent can simply place a single tile to bridge the damage and hit back with a catastrophe of his own in the same turn.		Placing a catastrophe is an action that will not earn you any points in itself. They’re usually most useful for winning a crucial war or revolt by splitting off a vulnerable part of your target. Beware of creating a back-and-forth where your opponent can simply place a single tile to bridge the damage and hit back with a catastrophe of his own in the same turn.

	Once you’ve spent all two your opponents can allow themselves a great deal more freedom in approaching you. Having no more catastrophes left feels a bit like being a toothless tiger.		Once you’ve spent all two your opponents can allow themselves a great deal more freedom in approaching you. Having no more catastrophes left feels a bit like being a toothless tiger.

Hafergulden: /* Some notes on wars */

2022-08-01T19:47:27Z

Some notes on wars

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:47, 1 August 2022
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	When another kingdom approaches yours to within a single tile, alarm bells should ring. This is the critical distance, because an attacker can play a catastrophe and attack in the same turn. If your kingdom has a vulnerable spot, this can be devastating. It’s almost always a good idea to strike first in this situation.		When another kingdom approaches yours to within a single tile, alarm bells should ring. This is the critical distance, because an attacker can play a catastrophe and attack in the same turn. If your kingdom has a vulnerable spot, this can be devastating. It’s almost always a good idea to strike first in this situation.

	Early wars, like early monuments, can easily backfire. More tiles in the hand than on the board means they are unpredictable and offer few victory points. While it is true that a war lost early on can be devastating, the loser has the rest of the game to rebuild and can end up in a superior position if you don’t keep up the pressure. This often means a whole series of limited wars which leaves you no time to consolidate your overextended kingdom. Predictable wars also make you vulnerable to ambushes. This is dastardly and underhand tactic which involves looking weak on the board while keeping three to four tile of the colour in question in your hand. Remember that the defender wins a draw – this is equal to having one free tile, and very valuable if you can entice an opponent to attack you.		Early wars, like early monuments, can easily backfire. More tiles in the hand than on the board means they are unpredictable and offer few victory points. While it is true that a war lost early on can be devastating, the loser has the rest of the game to rebuild and can end up in a superior position if you don’t keep up the pressure. This often means a whole series of limited wars which leaves you no time to consolidate your overextended kingdom. Predictable wars also make you vulnerable to ambushes. This is a dastardly and underhand tactic which involves looking weak on the board while keeping three to four tile of the colour in question in your hand. Remember that the defender wins a draw – this is equal to having one free tile, and very valuable if you can entice an opponent to attack you.

	== Catastrophes ==		== Catastrophes ==

Hafergulden: /* First moves */

2022-08-01T19:41:36Z

First moves

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:41, 1 August 2022
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	The classic oldschool opening is putting your green and black leaders on the same temple, at right angles. In the second turn reinforce them with a red tile in the space between them to form a little 2x2 square with each leader flanked by two temples. (Green and black are the two leaders with a special function, so it’s a good idea to get them on the board early on.)		The classic oldschool opening is putting your green and black leaders on the same temple, at right angles. In the second turn reinforce them with a red tile in the space between them to form a little 2x2 square with each leader flanked by two temples. (Green and black are the two leaders with a special function, so it’s a good idea to get them on the board early on.)

	Red and green is another good starting combination. (Having an opponent’s ~~read~~ leader in a kingdom you’re trying to fortify can be very vexing.)		Red and green is another good starting combination. (Having an opponent’s red leader in a kingdom you’re trying to fortify can be very vexing.)

	It’s perfectly reasonable to keep some leaders off the board for quite a while if you want to get out more tiles in the beginning (instead of wasting a turn each on placing a leader – having two more tiles out in the early game can make a huge difference) or want to preserve your leaders from battles they cannot win. This last bit is important: As soon as wars become possible, you’ll need some tiles to defend your leaders or they become easy prey.		It’s perfectly reasonable to keep some leaders off the board for quite a while if you want to get out more tiles in the beginning (instead of wasting a turn each on placing a leader – having two more tiles out in the early game can make a huge difference) or want to preserve your leaders from battles they cannot win. This last bit is important: As soon as wars become possible, you’ll need some tiles to defend your leaders or they become easy prey.
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	The best way of dealing with a rogue leader is often patience. If you can’t catastrophise him but plan to get rid of him some time in the future, hem him in with some tiles on adjacent squares to prevent the building of supporting temples. The be patient until you can kick him out with a revolt. Sometimes you can use a convenient enemy kingdom that’s strong in that leader’s colour to start a war and blast him out of your kingdom.		The best way of dealing with a rogue leader is often patience. If you can’t catastrophise him but plan to get rid of him some time in the future, hem him in with some tiles on adjacent squares to prevent the building of supporting temples. The be patient until you can kick him out with a revolt. Sometimes you can use a convenient enemy kingdom that’s strong in that leader’s colour to start a war and blast him out of your kingdom.


	== Kingdom construction ==		== Kingdom construction ==