Board Game Arena - User contributions [en]

Gamehelpsolo

2025-08-22T17:49:48Z

Zoomboom: /* Unimplemented Rules */ scoring

Solo is a simple game, in which you must be the first to play every card in your hand. Every card is worth a specific amount of points. At the end of each round, the total number of those points is subtracted from the total you started with at the beginning of the round, unless you won the round.

== Special cards ==

Swap Cards (Direct): Allows you to exchange your entire hand with the hand of a player of your choice.

Swap Cards (Rotation): The gray Swap Cards card rotates every player's hand '''''according to the current order of play'''''. The image on the card can be misleading, because it always indicates clockwise. If the order of play is clockwise, cards are swapped to counterclockwise. Any card can be played after this card.

Skip: Skips the next player.

Change Direction: Changes the order of play from clockwise to counterclockwise or vice versa.

Plus Two: This causes the player next in the turn order to draw 2 cards. It can be played on an active Plus Two (one played targeting you) to make the next player draw 4, instead. This stacking effect continues indefinitely (0+2= Plus 2, 2+2= Plus 4, 4+2= Plus 6, etc) until a player can't play a Plus Two.

Wild: Allows you to change the color.

Wild Plus Four: Allows you to change the color while also making the next player draw 4 cards. Like a Plus Two, the effect can stack.

== Playing cards ==

To play a card, it must match ''either'' the color or number/symbol on the top of the discard pile. Exceptions are Swap Cards (Rotation) and both types of Wild cards, which can be played on anything.

=== Jumping In ===
If you have an identical card (same color ''and'' number/symbol) as a card just played, you may immediately play it. Any players between you and the player of the original card are skipped.

=== Solo ===

Before you perform any move that would leave you with one card in your hand you must call "solo". If you do not, you are required to draw two cards.

== Scoring ==

* face value - 1-9
* 10 - Change Direction
* 20 - Skip
* 30 - Draw Two, Swap Cards with Another Player
* 40 - Swap Cards in Turn, Choose a Color
* 50 - Draw 4 + Choose a Color

== Unimplemented Rules ==

The linked rulebook is newer than the BGA implementation of the game, and reflects at least one revision to the rules. In particular, the “Triple +” rule mentioned in the rulebook is not supported on BGA.

The scoring is also differently than in the rulebook.

Talk:Gamehelpsolo

2025-08-22T17:47:27Z

Zoomboom: Created page with " I assume the game is designed to end when one player's points reaches zero?"

I assume the game is designed to end when one player's points reaches zero?

Gamehelpmrjack

2025-06-28T02:10:23Z

Zoomboom: clarified gaslight shutoff

For tips on how to play Mr Jack, see [[Tips_mrjack]]

== Setup ==

* All characters are placed suspect side up on the board, along with manholes, lit gaslights and police cordons.
* Mr Jack draws an alibi. That is his identity.
** The rest of the alibis are placed in a stack next to the board.
* Mr Jack starts visible.

== Game play ==

* On odd rounds, the detective starts first. On even rounds, Mr Jack starts first.

===Choosing and using characters===
* Draw 4 character cards from the deck and place them next to the board. On odd rounds, shuffle the deck first.
* The starting player chooses a character and activates their ability.
* Then the opposite player chooses two characters and activates their abilities one by one.
* Finally, the starting player activates the last ability.

{{infoBox
|title=Character Powers
|body=
*'''Sherlock Holmes''': Move 1 to 3 spaces, then draw the first card from the alibi deck and look at it secretly.
*'''John Watson''': Move 1 to 3 spaces then choose his final direction. All characters on the line (except Watson) are visible.
*'''John Smith''': Move 1 to 3 spaces. Must move a lit gaslight before or after moving.
* '''Inspector Lestrade''': Move 1 to 3 spaces. Must move a cordon before or after moving.
* '''Miss Stealthy''': Move 1 to 4 spaces. May cross any hex while moving, but must stop on a street hex.
* '''Sergeant Goodley''': Move 1 to 3 spaces. Must use 3 moves to move any characters towards him before or after moving.
* '''Sir William Gull''': Move 1 to 3 spaces. May swap places with any other character instead.
* '''Jeremy Bert''': Move 1 to 3 spaces. Must move a manhole cover before or after moving.
}}

* Some special tiles have different effects. Obstacles cannot be crossed by anyone except Stealthy.
* Police cordons block exits from available to escaping. Manholes can be used to travel to another manhole if not covered.

===Call for witnesses===
* Then, Jack must declare whether he is visible. (He is visible if he is next to a gaslight or another character, or lit by Watson's torch.)
* According to his answer, the detective eliminates some suspects.

===Shutting off a gaslight===
* After that, remove the lit token equal to the round number from the game. Only four gaslight tiles are numbered. They are the gaslight 1, 2, 3, and 4. So no gaslight is shut off during the last four rounds.

== End of the Game ==

* Once per game, the detective can move another character onto Jack and confront him. If the detective is right, they win. Otherwise, Jack wins.
* If Jack escapes when he was not visible at the start of the round, he wins. To escape, Jack must move their hidden identity off the board via one of the exits at the four corners of the board where a police cordon is not present.
* If eight rounds have passed and Jack is not caught, he wins.

Gamehelprobotsateourpizza

2025-06-27T22:46:16Z

Zoomboom: Added more details.

Robots Ate Our Pizza is a cooperative pick-and-pass (card drafting) game. In order to succeed, players must work together without communicating plans.

Cards to include based on # of players :

In all player counts, Red, Blue, Yellow, and Purple are used

* 2 players: Include cards 1, 2, 3, 4 of each color.
* 3 or 4 players: Include cards 1 to 5 of each color.
* 5 players: Include cards 1 to 7 of each color.
* 6 players: Include cards 1 to 8 of each color.
Deal each player 5 cards.

Players pick a card from their hand to place face up in front of them, then pass the rest of their hand left, & repeat until each player has selected four cards. The last card in each hand is discarded.

Players get points for collecting sets (same color or same number) and runs (can be a mixture of colors).

The four cards in front of each player are scored as follows:

* Pairs are worth 2 (a pair can be either two of the same color OR two of the same number)
* Triples are worth 5 (three of the same color OR three of the same number)
* Quads are worth 12 (four of the same color OR four of the same number)
* Runs of 3 are worth 2 (can be same color or different colors or mix of same and different)
* Runs of 4 are worth 4 (can be same color or different colors or mix of same and different)

A game consists of four rounds with different goals:
# Round 1: The players goal is to get the highest total score (sum of individual scores).
# Round 2: The players goal is to get the lowest total score.
# Round 3: The players try to get the highest difference between highest player's score and lowest player's score. For example, if highest player has 11 points and lowest has 2 points, then team's score is 9.
# Round 4: The players try to get the lowest difference between highest player's score and lowest player's score. You want your scores to be as similar to each other as possible.

After each task the robots will eat some slices of pizza. The number of slices eaten depends on your group's performance on the task.
After you've mastered the Base Game, try these variants:

After you've mastered the Base Game, try these variants:

* Extra Cheese: Pairs, triples, & quadruples of the same color are negative points.
* Extra Pepperoni: Runs are negative points.
* Extra Veggies: Pairs are negative points (but triples and quadruples are positive points).

Gamehelprobotsateourpizza

2025-06-27T22:34:38Z

Zoomboom:

Robots Ate Our Pizza is a cooperative pick-and-pass (card drafting) game. In order to succeed, players must work together without communicating plans. Players pick a card from their hand to keep, pass the rest of their hand left, & repeat until each player has selected four cards. Players get points for collecting sets (same color or same number) and runs (can be a mixture of colors).

A game consists of four rounds with different goals:

# Round 1: The players goal is to get the highest total score (sum of individual scores).
# Round 2: The players goal is to get the lowest total score.
# Round 3: The players try to get the highest difference between highest player's score and lowest player's score. For example, if highest player has 11 points and lowest has 2 points, then team's score is 9.
# Round 4: The players try to get the lowest difference between highest player's score and lowest player's score. You want your scores to be as similar to each other as possible.

After each task the robots will eat some slices of pizza. The number of slices eaten depends on your group's performance on the task.

After you've mastered the Base Game, try these variants:

* Extra Cheese: Pairs, triples, & quadruples of the same color are negative points.
* Extra Pepperoni: Runs are negative points.
* Extra Veggies: Pairs are negative points (but triples and quadruples are positive points).

Player Count:

In all player counts, Red, Blue, Yellow, and Purple are used

* 2 players: Include cards 1, 2, 3, 4 of each color.
* 3 or 4 players: Include cards 1 to 5 of each color.
* 5 players: Include cards 1 to 7 of each color.
* 6 players: Include cards 1 to 8 of each color.

Gamehelprobotsateourpizza

2025-06-27T22:33:24Z

Zoomboom: fixed lines

Robots Ate Our Pizza is a cooperative pick-and-pass (card drafting) game. In order to succeed, players must work together without communicating plans. Players pick a card from their hand to keep, pass the rest of their hand left, & repeat until each player has selected four cards. Players get points for collecting sets (same color or same number) and runs (can be a mixture of colors).

A game consists of four rounds with different goals:

# Round 1: The players goal is to get the highest total score (sum of individual scores).
# Round 2: The players goal is to get the lowest total score.
# Round 3: The players try to get the highest difference between highest player's score and lowest player's score. For example, if highest player has 11 points and lowest has 2 points, then team's score is 9.
# Round 4: The players try to get the lowest difference between highest player's score and lowest player's score. You want your scores to be as similar to each other as possible.

After each task the robots will eat some slices of pizza. The number of slices eaten depends on your group's performance on the task.

* After you've mastered the Base Game, try these variants:
* Extra Cheese: Pairs, triples, & quadruples of the same color are negative points.
* Extra Pepperoni: Runs are negative points.
* Extra Veggies: Pairs are negative points (but triples and quadruples are positive points).

Player Count:

In all player counts, Red, Blue, Yellow, and Purple are used

* 2 players: Include cards 1, 2, 3, 4 of each color.
* 3 or 4 players: Include cards 1 to 5 of each color.
* 5 players: Include cards 1 to 7 of each color.
* 6 players: Include cards 1 to 8 of each color.

Gamehelprobotsateourpizza

2025-06-27T22:32:04Z

Zoomboom: clarified cards included

Robots Ate Our Pizza is a cooperative pick-and-pass (card drafting) game. In order to succeed, players must work together without communicating plans. Players pick a card from their hand to keep, pass the rest of their hand left, & repeat until each player has selected four cards. Players get points for collecting sets (same color or same number) and runs (can be a mixture of colors).

A game consists of four rounds with different goals:

# Round 1: The players goal is to get the highest total score (sum of individual scores).
# Round 2: The players goal is to get the lowest total score.
# Round 3: The players try to get the highest difference between highest player's score and lowest player's score. For example, if highest player has 11 points and lowest has 2 points, then team's score is 9.
# Round 4: The players try to get the lowest difference between highest player's score and lowest player's score. You want your scores to be as similar to each other as possible.

After each task the robots will eat some slices of pizza. The number of slices eaten depends on your group's performance on the task.

* After you've mastered the Base Game, try these variants:
* Extra Cheese: Pairs, triples, & quadruples of the same color are negative points.
* Extra Pepperoni: Runs are negative points.
* Extra Veggies: Pairs are negative points (but triples and quadruples are positive points).

Player Count:

In all player counts, Red, Blue, Yellow, and Purple are used

2 players: Include cards 1, 2, 3, 4 of each color.
3 or 4 players: Include cards 1 to 5 of each color.
5 players: Include cards 1 to 7 of each color.
6 players: Include cards 1 to 8 of each color.

Multipleaccounts

2025-06-12T03:18:23Z

Zoomboom: explain "friendly mode" can avoid affecting ELO and avoid penalties

== The Main Rule ==

'''No user is allowed to play from more than one account - missing source.'''

== Playing from the same IP ==

If one of the players has a premium account, you are able to play at the same table using the same IP (internet address).

When this happens, there will be a "this player plays from the same IP address as another player" warning under the affected players. This warning lets other players know that there are players at their table that are able to discuss the game outside of BGA.

If you wish to play from the same internet address as another person:

* The best option is to not play at the same table, or play at a table where you know everyone.
* If you play with strangers, make them comfortable with the fact you are 2 (or more) different people: do not discuss the game outside the chatroom, and DO NOT collaborate (or engage in kingmaking) with your partner.

When some of your opponents are playing from the same IP:

* You may politely refuse to play with them.
* You should be vigilant and check that they are not collaborating during the game.
* You do not have to report until you are certain that two or more players are engaging in a concrete kingmaking action. If you report players, saying that "they are playing from the same IP" without any kingmaking proof, we will close your report.

== Boosting your ELO by playing against yourself ==

Boosting your ELO by playing against yourself is a useless endeavor.

Why? It is very easy to detect, and severe punishments will also be handed down as result:
* Any secondary accounts will be removed.
* Your primary account will have its ELO for ALL games reset to zero.

Why this is so easy to detect:
* When you start having a very good ELO, all other good players will look at you and your game history. In the game history, it is really easy to see how you managed to have a good ELO (through legitimate play or boosting).
* In BGA, every game can be replayed. If a game is suspect, players can check the replay to determine if the game was real, or a fake game designed for boosting.
* In addition, we use automatic methods and collect technical information that allows us to check if "one person = one account".

It happens that some players will attempt to ELO boost, but in the end, all boosters are detected and reset to 0. This is why this is a waste of time for everyone, and why it is useless to do so.

If you have a lot of time to spend, please try to get better at this game and do not try to cheat, because it is just a waste for everybody.

You can play in the same location, just DON'T BOOST YOURSELF!!! It won't work!

Note: You can use Friendly mode if you wish to avoid affecting ELO rankings, have no time limit per turn, and avoid penalties.

Gamehelpsechsnimmt

2025-04-29T16:41:36Z

Zoomboom: /* Professional */

[[Category:Card games]]

==Objective==
The basic goal of the game is to avoid having to pick up cards, and try to force the other players to do so. Everyone starts with 66 points - you lose one for each "bullhead" on a card you have to pick up. When one player has lost all of their points, the game will end at the end of the current round and the player with the most points left wins!

==On Your Turn==
* Everyone starts a round with 10 cards in their hand. Four cards are placed on the table to start four rows.
* Every player secretly chooses a card, and then all of the cards are revealed at the same time.
* When the cards are revealed, they are placed on the ends of the rows, from lowest value played to highest, following two rules:
# Cards are always placed in ascending order.
# Cards are always placed next to the card on the board with the smallest difference between them.
* As play progresses, the rows will fill up with cards - at five cards, a row is full.
* If someone's card would go onto a full row (is the sixth card), that player has to pick up all of the cards in that row, and they lose as many points as there are "bullheads" on the cards (different cards are worth different amounts - see below). The card that the person played becomes the starting point of a new row.
* If someone plays a card that is lower than the numbers at the end of all of the rows, then that player must take a row of their choice, losing points as normal, and start a new row in its place with their card.

==Bullheads==
* Each card from 1 to 104 has a number of bullheads on it - this indicates how many points it is worth when it is picked up.
* Cards which end in the number 5 (ex. 5, 15, 25) are worth 2 points.
* Cards which end in the number 0 (10, 20, 30) are worth 3 points.
* Cards which are multiples of 11 (11, 22, 33) are worth 5 points.
* The 55 card ends in 5 and is a multiple of 11, so it is worth 7 points.
* All other cards are worth 1 point.

==End of a round==
* The round ends when all 10 cards have been played from players' hands. If no-one has lost all of their points, then a new round begins.
* If someone is out of points, then the game is over and whoever still has the most points is the winner.

==Variants==
===Tactics===
* This ruleset changes the number of cards in play (based on how many people are playing) - other than that the rules are the same.
* The number of cards is equal to 10 times the number of players plus 4 (5 players = cards 1 to 54, 6 players = cards 1 to 64, etc.)
* Therefore, every card that could be played will find its way onto the table at some point.
* This changes the strategy and makes paying attention to which cards are yet to be played more important.

===Logic===
* Apply the same rules as Tactics, with these additional rules.
* At the start of the round all of the cards are placed on the table face up
* Players take turns choosing cards one at a time to build their hands before the round properly starts.

===Professional===
* Cards are played to the left OR the right, depending on which is closest in numerical value.
* The cards are still played from smallest to largest, and are placed in the closest possible location on the left or right side of all of the four rows, at the time the card is played.
*If there is tie for closest possible location (which is now possible), the player can choose where to play it.
**Example: (just for demonstration)
**Row #1 has 2, 3, 4, 5, 6. Row #2 has 10 and 15. Row #3 and #4 have much higher numbers.
**Player A plays a 9, player B plays an 8.
**In this case, the 8 would be played first since it's lower than the 9. Player B can choose where to play it, since it's equally close to the 10 and to the 6.
**If they choose to play on row #2 to the left of the 10, then the 9 would have to be played on row #1 on the right side of the 6, but can't fit there since there's 5 cards already in the row! Player A has to take that row of cards, then the 9 is left to start a new row.
*If a card is played which has nowhere to go (if it is larger than any of the left cards and smaller than any of the right cards), the person who played it takes a row of their choice (similarly to if they had played a very small card without the professional variant). The card that the person played becomes the starting point of a new row.

Gamehelptoc

2025-04-26T02:41:51Z

Zoomboom: /* Game Variants */

== Summary ==
Tock is a card-and-board game for 2 to 6 players. With 4 or 6 players, it is possible to create two or three teams of 2 players, sitting opposite of each other.

The game concept is the same as Ludo, Sorry! or Mensch ärgere Dich nicht: Each player owns 4 pawns, has to bring them out of their start area into the game circle, and then race them into their home zone.

The difference is that the players don't roll a die. Instead, standard playing cards (like those used in Bridge or Rummy) are dealt to the players, and they can choose to play one of their cards to move a pawn.

== Object of the game ==
In single player games (no teams), the winner is the player who is first to get all 4 pawns into their home.

In team games, the winner is the team that is first to get the pawns of both players into their corresponding homes. After the first player of a team has brought all of their pawns into their home, both players continue to play with the remaining color.

== Setup of your game on Board Game Arena ==

===Game Type===
You can choose between three game types.

'''Free-for-all''': This is the single player game, everyone fights for themselves, no mercy, no friends, just run and eat every pawn that has the wrong color.

'''2 vs 2''': When you get 4 players at your table, there will be two teams with two players. Assuming that players A1 and A2 belong to team A, and B1,B2 to team B, then the turn order will be A1, B1, A2, B2. With any other number of players, you will play Free-for-all.

'''2 vs 2 vs 2''': When you get 6 players at your table, there will be three teams with two players each. The turn order will be A1, B1, C1, A2, B2, C2.

When you choose team game (2 vs 2, or 2 vs 2 vs 2) new options appear which enable you to set the teams. Default is random. Note: the team games options are still selectable with the wrong number of players so that not to jam the interface. However, if the option is still on with the wrong number of players, it would be free-for-all by default.

===Game Variants===
If you are a new player, it is suggested to start with the base game (no variants) -- then you can skip to the "Playing a hand of cards" section below.

Details below. I.e., because it can be frustrating when the game starts and you don't have any card to let you start, there is the "start configuration" variant that allow you to place your first pawn on your start space before the game starts (Fast Start).

• '''Use variants?''' ''Yes'' / ''No''

If you choose no, the game is played without any variant. After choosing yes you now have to select which variants you want to add among the options which now appear. All variants are compatible with each other. This two-step system has been chosen in order not to spam the interface to new-commers who should start with basics.

All options for variant default on base game, so if you just choose "yes" for the option "Use variants?" and change nothing else before launching, you still have the base game without variants. For each drop-down list, variant options are marked with a * symbol between brackets.

'''Bold''' = the title above the drop-down list

''Italics'' = the option to choose for that variant.

• '''Start configuration''': ''Fast start: one pawn in play''

You start with a pawn already in play on the starting of your color. The other three pawns are still to be put in play later using an Ace or a King.

This pawn is a blocker while it does moves from its field, as if it was freshly put in play.

This option is useful to shorten the game a bit and to soften luck at start

• '''Charity mode''': ''1 turn without playing (aggressive)''

This variant brings a potential compensation for a player who spent 1 whole round without playing, which can give another chance to an unlucky player.

This is the situation where the player had to discard each card of their hand one-by-one.

A counter in the player panel indicates all player status for that matter (the one illustrated with an arrow and a trash icon).

In that case, the player has to demand a card he wishes from opponents in the beginning of the next round, after each player see their hand and before the exchange for team games. This is called a charity turn.

To do so, he must call any value (numerical or figure). All eligible opponents beginning by the left of the demanding player now must say one-by-one if they own the demanded card or not, until the card is found or all involved opponents have been interrogated.

An opponent is eligible only if he could play at least one card during the last round. If he is not (and so is eligible to demand a card in this variation), he must not answer.

In team game, the teammate is never eligible and must not answer too.

In this BGA adaptation, the answering is managed automatically by the system.

-If one eligible opponent holds the card in their hand, the answering turn stops. The demanding player must now select a card in their own hand to exchange with the card is demanded. This card remains secret for the other players.

-If no eligible opponent has the card, nothing else happens; the demanding player have just missed the opportunity.

''Note 1:'' if the answering opponents holds several copies of the demanding card, he just gives one which is randomly selected by the system.

''Note 2:'' if there is no eligible opponent at this moment, the player misses the opportunity and does not call any card. If it is not the case, demanding a card is mandatory.

''Note 3:'' if there are several eligible players to demand a card, their charity turns are processed in the round order beginning with the firstmost.

''Note 4:'' When you play with a variant for the effect of the 5, playing a 5 to move another player pawn (see variants for 5) is considered the same as discarding so you may still be eligible to demand a card.

• '''Charity mode''': ''2 turns without playing (moderate)''

This is the same as the previous variant but now a player gets a charity turn only if he spends two consecutive turns without playing.

The eligible opponents are still those who could play at least once during the previous round (their counter must show zero).

The counter in the player panel helps to keep track. It resets to zero immediately when the player effectively plays or after all charity turns if he had one, successful or not.

The counter also resets even if the player got an aborted charity turn because there was no eligible opponent.

• '''Charity mode''': ''3 turns without playing (moderate)''

Same as before but with three consecutive turns.

So, this would occur even more rarely than with 2 turns and have less impact on the game.

• '''Effect of the Ace''': ''Put a pawn in play or 1 or 11 forward''

Self-explanatory. With an Ace you get a third option to move forward by eleven. So, sheltering 11 fields ahead an opponent pieces is no longer a viable strategy.

• '''Effect of the 5''': ''5 forward, other player pawns only''

Without variant, the 5 is not a special card. With that option it can be used to move other player pawns by 5, but it is no longer usable on their own pawns.

A blocking pawn on its starting field can be targeted to force it to free the other pawns behind it.

It can be used to force an opponent to miss their home entrance too.

It is possible to make that pawn eat another if it lands on it directly.

In a team game, it can be used to move the pawns of the teammate. But when one play with the pawns of their teammate after he managed to enter their four own, it cannot be used anymore on these pawns, only on opponents'.

It is possible to use it to make a pawn enter its home.

• '''Effect of the 5''': ''5 forward, all player pawn including own''

Same as before but now it is possible to move any possible pawn including their own.

Any pawn (allied of foe) that can be move legally by 5 can be chosen.

• '''Effect of the 7''': ''1 to 7, no split, eating on the way''

With this variant, it is no longer possible to move several pawns with one 7. Instead, the chosen pawn can be moved 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 or 7 fields forward. It still eats any pawn on the way.

This variant makes the entrance in home easier when one has no other pawn in play. However, tidying one's home can now take more turns.

This can also speed up the last phase of the game, easing the entrance of the last pawn.

• '''Effect of the Ten''': ''10 forward, no discard''

With this variant, the 10 becomes a normal card. It loses its discard effect whether it is played or discarded.

• '''Effect of the Jack: usable on own starting pawn?''' ''Yes''

With this variant it is now possible to select one freshly put-in-play pawn for the swap, without having to move it from its starting field first.

It is still not possible to select another blocking pawn though.

An opponent swapped pawn that land on that starting field that way is now threatened if it is not move just after that.

== Playing a hand of cards ==

One of the players takes the role of the dealer and deals three to five cards to each player. The exact number of cards dealt depends on the number of players, and varies so that the 52 cards of the deck can be distributed evenly. For example, in a 2-player game, the first two hands contain 5 cards, followed by four hands of 4 cards. Don't worry, the game takes care of this automatically. After all cards of a hand are played, the role of the dealer moves to the next player.

The player following the dealer gets the first turn. In each turn, a player plays one of their hand cards and moves one or more pawns. The played card determines which move is possible. Then the next player takes their turn. This continues until all hands are empty, then the role of the dealer moves the player following the previous dealer, new hands are dealt from the remaining deck and the next round begins. And yes, you're right, this means that the dealer misses a turn.

When all cards of the deck have been dealt and played, they are shuffled as the new deck and the game continues.

== Exchanging of cards ==

In team games, after dealing, each player exchanges one card with their team partner. Both partners choose a card, then the cards are exchanged. It is important to choose a card that is most useful for the team partner.

In team games there can be no discussion between partners about what cards are held, or suggestions/requests about how or what to play. In reply to a recent question for clarification, Woodruff (who introduced and designed the game here) wrote:

"You're right, talking is not allowed between teammates, that is an implicit rule, as for many games like this (Belote, Scopa, Tarot)"

== Start Space ==

Each player has a start zone, where their pawns are placed at the beginning of the game. Near the start zone, a space in the game circle is marked in the player's color. This is the start space. When a pawn is brought into play (see Ace or King), it is placed on that start space. Pawns are protected on that start space. They cannot be eaten, they cannot be skipped, and they cannot be swapped by a Jack. Once a pawn leaves the start space, the protection ends, even if it returns to it!

== Eating and Skipping ==

When a pawn is moved so that it stops on a space that is occupied by another pawn, that pawn is eaten (or thrown). It is removed to its start zone. Outside of the home zones, it is possible to eat ANY pawn, even your own or those of your team partner. If your start space is occupied by the pawn of another player, and you play a start card (Ace or King), that pawn is eaten, too. If you can't play any other card, you may even be forced to eat yourself.

Normally, it's no problem to overtake other pawns, just count the space where they are standing as any empty space and hop along. There are three exceptions. (1) The Start Space (see above), (2) the Seven (see below), (3) the home zone. You cannot skip pawns in the home zone. So, if using a card requires a pawn to skip other pawns, but they can't be skipped, the card cannot be used for that pawn.

== Entering the home zone ==

You may enter the home zone on space 16. When you want to enter your home zone, the played card must fit. You must use the complete movement that a card provides. If that movement goes too far, you cannot enter the home zone, but must continue on the circle.

== To play or not to play - being blocked ==

As long as you can play a card that lets you make a allowed move, you must play. If that's not possible, you must discard one card. There are three situations that can force you to discard: (1) All your pawns are in your start zone, and you have neither Ace nor King. (2) You queue up behind a blocking pawn (an obstinate pawn that won't leave its Start Space). (3) Your predecessor played or discarded a Ten (see below).

== Effects of cards ==

Playing a card allows you to move pawns by one or more spaces. You can move pawns along the ring of spaces, and you can move pawns into their own home zone. Cards that are not mentioned simply move one pawn by the number of spaces given by the value of the card.

The color (or suit) of the cards has no meaning in Tock.

;'''Ace'''
: Bring a new pawn from your start zone to the start space, or move one pawn that is already in the game forward by one space.
;'''4'''
:Move one of your pawns 4 spaces backwards! It is not possible to move backwards into the home spaces. And it's not possible to back out of your home zone to go on a quick hunt. Home is Home!
;'''5 [variant]'''
:Move any pawn on the board 5 spaces forward, either one of yours or an opponent's pawn.
;'''7'''
:You can choose between two options.
:* 7 split: you get seven one-step moves. You can do them with one pawn, or distribute them between your pawns. But you must play them all, even if it hurts. Since the pawns do single steps, all other pawns on their way are eaten. There is one restriction: you cannot use a 7 to move your last pawn into your home and continue to play with the pawns of your team partner. You must complete your move before you can start helping your partner.
:* 1-7 no split: you get up to seven one-step moves. You must do them with one pawn, but you can forfeit some of them if you want.
;'''10'''
: You move one of your pawns forward by 10 spaces. Additionally, this forbids the next player all movement, so they have to discard one of their cards. The ''Stop Moving'' function of the 10 is always active, even when a 10 is discarded! There's one exception: The effect of a 10 does not carry over to the next hand, so when you play a 10 and the next player has an empty hand, there is no forced discard.
:'''Pay attention!''' Normally, when you click on a card, you just select it for movement. But if your predecessor played a 10, the function of a click changes to ''Discard'', and the clicked card is discarded at once. This is evil by design, not a bug!
;'''Jack'''
: Exchange one of your pawns with any other pawn that's on the ring of spaces. Pawns that are standing on their start space cannot be exchanged! You are allowed to exchange two of your own pawns, which has no effect at all. But sometimes, that's just what one needs.
;'''Queen'''
: Move one of your pawns by 12 spaces.
;'''King'''
: You can move one of your pawns by 13 spaces, or bring a new pawn from your start zone to the start space.

== Note: in case one player quits the game ==
Automatic actions performed when it should be their turn:
*If that player would play or discard, a card from their hand is chosen randomly by the system to be discarded (no pawn will be moved. '''Note:''' if a 10 is discarded that way, '''the next player would not be forced to discard''' because of that card no matter what.

*If that player would choose a card to be exchanged, it is once again picked randomly by the system.

*If that player has left having started a move of decomposing 7, that move stops immediately and it is now the next player turn.

*If that player would have to take any other action, nothing happens.

In addition, if that player got a blocking pawn before leaving (a pawn on the player's start space), that pawn is unlocked immediately if it is the player turn when they leave, or as soon as it would have been their turn to play again. That makes that pawn vulnerable from passing, eating and exchanging, the same as if it has moved.

Gamehelptoc

2025-04-26T02:32:20Z

Zoomboom: /* Game Variants */

== Summary ==
would it please be possible to get a statement on demanding cards?

Tock is a card-and-board game for 2 to 6 players. With 4 or 6 players, it is possible to create two or three teams of 2 players, sitting opposite of each other.

The game concept is the same as Ludo, Sorry! or Mensch ärgere Dich nicht: Each player owns 4 pawns, has to bring them out of their start area into the game circle, and then race them into their home zone.

The difference is that the players don't roll a die. Instead, standard playing cards (like those used in Bridge or Rummy) are dealt to the players, and they can choose to play one of their cards to move a pawn.

== Object of the game ==
In single player games (no teams), the winner is the player who is first to get all 4 pawns into their home.

In team games, the winner is the team that is first to get the pawns of both players into their corresponding homes. After the first player of a team has brought all of their pawns into their home, both players continue to play with the remaining color.

== Setup of your game on Board Game Arena ==

===Game Type===
You can choose between three game types.

'''Free-for-all''': This is the single player game, everyone fights for themselves, no mercy, no friends, just run and eat every pawn that has the wrong color.

'''2 vs 2''': When you get 4 players at your table, there will be two teams with two players. Assuming that players A1 and A2 belong to team A, and B1,B2 to team B, then the turn order will be A1, B1, A2, B2. With any other number of players, you will play Free-for-all.

'''2 vs 2 vs 2''': When you get 6 players at your table, there will be three teams with two players each. The turn order will be A1, B1, C1, A2, B2, C2.

When you choose team game (2 vs 2, or 2 vs 2 vs 2) new options appear which enable you to set the teams. Default is random. Note: the team games options are still selectable with the wrong number of players so that not to jam the interface. However, if the option is still on with the wrong number of players, it would be free-for-all by default.

===Game Variants===
If you are a new player, it is suggested to start with the base game (no variants) -- then you can skip to the "Playing a hand of cards" section below.

Details below. I.e., because it can be frustrating when the game starts and you don't have any card to let you start, there is the "start configuration" variant that allow you to place your first pawn on your start space before the game starts (Fast Start).

• '''Use variants?''' ''Yes'' / ''No''

If you choose no, the game is played without any variant. After choosing yes you now have to select which variants you want to add among the options which now appear. All variants are compatible with each other. This two-step system has been chosen in order not to spam the interface to new-commers who should start with basics.

All options for variant default on base game, so if you just choose "yes" for the option "Use variants?" and change nothing else before launching, you still have the base game without variants. For each drop-down list, variant options are marked with a * symbol between brackets.

'''Bold''' = the title above the drop-down list

''Italics'' = the option to choose for that variant.

• '''Start configuration''': ''Fast start: one pawn in play''

You start with a pawn already in play on the starting of your color. The other three pawns are still to be put in play later using an Ace or a King.

This pawn is a blocker while it does moves from its field, as if it was freshly put in play.

This option is useful to shorten the game a bit and to soften luck at start

• '''Charity mode''': ''1 turn without playing (aggressive)''

This variant brings a potential compensation for a player who spent 1 whole round without playing, which can give another chance to an unlucky player.

This is the situation where the player had to discard each card of their hand one-by-one.

A counter in the player panel indicates all player status for that matter (the one illustrated with an arrow and a trash icon).

In that case, the player has to demand a card he wishes from opponents in the beginning of the next round, after each player see their hand and before the exchange for team games. This is called a charity turn.

To do so, he must call any value (numerical or figure). All eligible opponents beginning by the left of the demanding player now must say one-by-one if they own the demanded card or not, until the card is found or all involved nopponents have been interrogated.

An opponent is eligible only if he could play at least one card during the last round. If he is not (and so is eligible to demand a card in this variation), he must not answer.

In team game, the teammate is never eligible and must not answer too.

In this BGA adaptation, the answering is managed automatically by the system.

-If one eligible opponent holds the card in their hand, the answering turn stops. The demanding player must now select a card in their own hand to exchange with the card is demanded. This card remain secret for the other players.

-If no eligible opponent has the card, nothing else happens; the demanding player have just missed the opportunity.

''Note 1:'' if the answering opponents holds several copies of the demanding card, he just gives one which is randomly selected by the system.

''Note 2:'' if there is no eligible opponents at this moments, the player misses the opportunity and does not call any card. If it is not the case, demanding a card is mandatory.

''Note 3:'' if there are several eligible player to demand a card, their charity turns are processed in the round order beginning with the firstmost.

''Note 4:'' When you play with a variant for the effect of the 5, playing a 5 to move another player pawn (see variants for 5) is considered the same as discarding so you may still be eligible to demand a card.

• '''Charity mode''': ''2 turns without playing (moderate)''

This is the same as the previous variant but now a player gets a charity turn only if he spend two consecutive turns without playing.

The eligible opponents are still those who could play at least once during the previous round (their counter must show zero).

The counter in the player panel helps to keep track. It resets to zero immediately when the player effectively plays or after all charity turns if he had one, successful or not.

The counter also resets even if the player got a avorted charity turn because there was no eligible opponent.

• '''Charity mode''': ''3 turns without playing (moderate)''

Same as before but with three consecutive turns.

So this would occur even more rarely than with 2 turns and have less impact on the game.

• '''Effect of the Ace''': ''Put a pawn in play or 1 or 11 forward''

Self-explanatory. With an Ace you get a third option to move forward by eleven. So sheltering 11 fields ahead an opponent pieces is no longer a viable strategy.

• '''Effect of the 5''': ''5 forward, other player pawns only''

Without variant, the 5 is not a special card. With that option it can be used to move other player pawns by 5, but it is no longer usable on their own pawns.

A blocking pawn on its starting field can be targetted to force it to free the other pawns behind it.

It can be used to force an opponent to miss their home entrance too.

It is possible to make that pawn eat another if it lands on it directly.

In a team game, it can be used to move the pawns of the teammate. But when one play with the pawns of their teammate after he managed to enter their four own, it cannot be used anymore on these pawns, only on opponents'.

It is possible to use it to make a pawn enter its home.

• '''Effect of the 5''': ''5 forward, all player pawn including own''

Same as before but now it is possible to move any possible pawn including their own.

Any pawn (allied of foe) that can be move legally by 5 can be chosen.

• '''Effect of the 7''': ''1 to 7, no split, eating on the way''

With this variant, it is no longer possible to move several pawns with one 7. Instead, the chosen pawn can be moved 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 or 7 fields forward. It still eats any pawn on the way.

This variant makes the entrance in home easier when one have no other pawn in play. However tidying one's home can now take more turns.

This can also speed up the last phase of the game, easing the entrance of the last pawn.

• '''Effect of the Ten''': ''10 forward, no discard''

With this variant, the 10 becomes a normal card. It looses its discard effect whether it is played or discarded.

• '''Effect of the Jack: usable on own starting pawn?''' ''Yes''

With this variant it is now possible to select one freshly put-in-play pawn for the swap, without having to move it from its starting field first.

It is still not possible to select an other blocking pawn though.

An opponent swapped pawn that land on that starting field that way is now threatened if it is not move just after that.

== Playing a hand of cards ==

One of the players takes the role of the dealer and deals three to five cards to each player. The exact number of cards dealt depends on the number of players, and varies so that the 52 cards of the deck can be distributed evenly. For example, in a 2 player game, the first two hands contain 5 cards, followed by four hands of 4 cards. Don't worry, the game takes care of this automatically. After all cards of a hand are played, the role of the dealer moves to the next player.

The player following the dealer gets the first turn. In each turn, a player plays one of their hand cards and moves one or more pawns. The played card determines which move is possible. Then the next player takes their turn. This continues until all hands are empty, then the role of the dealer moves the player following the previous dealer, new hands are dealt from the remaining deck and the next round begins. And yes, you're right, this means that the dealer misses a turn.

When all cards of the deck have been dealt and played, they are shuffled as the new deck and the game continues.

== Exchanging of cards ==

In team games, after dealing, each player exchanges one card with their team partner. Both partners choose a card, then the cards are exchanged. It is important to choose a card that is most useful for the team partner.

nb - In team games there can be no discussion between partners about what cards are held, or suggestions/requests about how or what to play. In reply to a recent question for clarification, Woodruff (who introduced and designed the game here) wrote:-

"You're right, talking is not allowed between teammates, that is an implicit rule, As for many games like this (Belote, Scopa, Tarot)"

== Start Space ==

Each player has a start zone, where their pawns are placed at the beginning of the game. Near the start zone, a space in the game circle is marked in the player's color. This is the start space. When a pawn is brought into play (see Ace or King), it is placed on that start space. Pawns are protected on that start space. They cannot be eaten, they cannot be skipped, and they cannot be swapped by a Jack. Once a pawn leaves the start space, the protection ends, even if it returns to it!

== Eating and Skipping ==

When a pawn is moved so that it stops on a space that is occupied by another pawn, that pawn is eaten (or thrown). It is removed to its start zone. Outside of the home zones, it is possible to eat ANY pawn, even your own or those of your team partner. If your start space is occupied by the pawn of another player, and you play a start card (Ace or King), that pawn is eaten, too. If you can't play any other card, you may even be forced to eat yourself.

Normally, it's no problem to overtake other pawns, just count the space where they are standing as any empty space and hop along. There are three exceptions. (1) The Start Space (see above), (2) the Seven (see below), (3) the home zone. You cannot skip pawns in the home zone. So, if using a card requires a pawn to skip other pawns, but they can't be skipped, the card cannot be used for that pawn.

== Entering the home zone ==

You may enter the home zone on space 16. When you want to enter your home zone, the played card must fit. You must use the complete movement that a card provides. If that movement goes too far, you cannot enter the home zone, but must continue on the circle.

== To play or not to play - being blocked ==

As long as you can play a card that lets you make a allowed move, you must play. If that's not possible, you must discard one card. There are three situations that can force you to discard: (1) All your pawns are in your start zone, and you have neither Ace nor King. (2) You queue up behind a blocking pawn (an obstinate pawn that won't leave its Start Space). (3) Your predecessor played or discarded a Ten (see below).

== Effects of cards ==

Playing a card allows you to move pawns by one or more spaces. You can move pawns along the ring of spaces, and you can move pawns into their own home zone. Cards that are not mentioned simply move one pawn by the number of spaces given by the value of the card.

The color (or suit) of the cards has no meaning in Tock.

;'''Ace'''
: Bring a new pawn from your start zone to the start space, or move one pawn that is already in the game forward by one space.
;'''4'''
:Move one of your pawns 4 spaces backwards! It is not possible to move backwards into the home spaces. And it's not possible to back out of your home zone to go on a quick hunt. Home is Home!
;'''5 [variant]'''
:Move any pawn on the board 5 spaces forward, including an opponents.
;'''7'''
:You can choose between two options.
:* 7 split: you get seven one-step moves. You can do them with one pawn, or distribute them between your pawns. But you must play them all, even if it hurts. Since the pawns do single steps, all other pawns on their way are eaten. There is one restriction: you cannot use a 7 to move your last pawn into your home and continue to play with the pawns of your team partner. You must complete your move before you can start helping your partner.
:* 1-7 no split: you get up to seven one-step moves. You must do them with one pawn, but you can forfeit some of them if you want.
;'''10'''
: You move one of your pawns forward by 10 spaces. Additionally, this forbids the next player all movement, so they have to discard one of their cards. The ''Stop Moving'' function of the 10 is always active, even when a 10 is discarded! There's one exception: The effect of a 10 does not carry over to the next hand, so when you play a 10 and the next player has an empty hand, there is no forced discard.
:'''Pay attention!''' Normally, when you click on a card, you just select it for movement. But if your predecessor played a 10, the function of a click changes to ''Discard'', and the clicked card is discarded at once. This is evil by design, not a bug!
;'''Jack'''
: Exchange one of your pawns with any other pawn that's on the ring of spaces. Pawns that are standing on their start space cannot be exchanged! You are allowed to exchange two of your own pawns, which has no effect at all. But sometimes, that's just what one needs.
;'''Queen'''
: Move one of your pawns by 12 spaces.
;'''King'''
: You can move one of your pawns by 13 spaces, or bring a new pawn from your start zone to the start space.

== Note: in case one player quits the game ==
Automatic actions performed when it should be their turn:
*If that player would play or discard, a card from their hand is chosen randomly by the system to be discarded (no pawn will be move. '''Note:''' if a 10 is discarded that way, '''the next player would not be forced to discard''' because of that card no matter what.

*If that player would choose a card to be exchange, it is once again picked randomly by the system.

*If that player has left having started a move of decomposing 7, that move stops immediately and it is now the next player turn.

*If that player would have to take any other action, nothing happens.

In addition, if that player got a blocking pawn before leaving (a pawn on the player's start space), that pawn is unlocked immediately if it is the player turn when they leave, or as soon as it would have been their turn to play again. That makes that pawn vulnerable from passing, eating and exchanging, the same as if it has moved.

Gamehelptoc

2025-04-25T23:36:35Z

Zoomboom: /* To play or not to play - being blocked */

Talk:Gamehelptoc

2025-04-25T22:58:06Z

Zoomboom: /* demanding cards? */

== demanding cards? ==

[[User:BelleSmoky|BelleSmoky]], what do you mean by "demanding cards"? (under the "Summary" part)

[[User:Zoomboom|Zoomboom]] ([[User talk:Zoomboom|talk]]) 00:58, 26 April 2025 (CEST)

Talk:Gamehelptoc

2025-04-25T22:57:05Z

Zoomboom: /* demanding cards? */ new section

== demanding cards? ==

[[User:BelleSmoky|BelleSmoky]], what do you mean by "demanding cards"? (under the "Summary" part)

Talk:Gamehelppresident

2024-07-13T00:04:40Z

Zoomboom:

Why is the joker on the low end in the ordering of cards? Doesn't it play as high?

and what does this mean? "the Joker cannot ignore the combination type"

Talk:Gamehelppresident

2024-07-13T00:02:50Z

Zoomboom: Created page with "Why is the joker on the low end in the ordering of cards? Doesn't it play as high?"

Why is the joker on the low end in the ordering of cards? Doesn't it play as high?

Gamehelpgoodcopbadcop

2023-08-31T22:01:56Z

Zoomboom: /* GETTING SHOT */ Clarified that you are "wounded" when shot once if you are Agent or Kingpin.

==TEAM==
You are on the HONEST team if you have the Agent card or if the majority of your cards are Honest.

You are on the CROOKED team if you have the Kingpin card or if the majority of your cards are Crooked.

==ON YOUR TURN==
Your turn consists of 3 phases:

====1) Take Action====
Choose 1 of these actions to take:
* '''Investigate''' - View one hidden Integrity Card.
* '''Arm''' - Take a Gun. Reveal 1 of your hidden Integrity Cards if you have any.
* '''Equip''' - Draw an Equipment Card. Discard down to 1. Reveal 1 of your hidden Integrity Cards if you have any.
* '''Shoot''' - Shoot your Gun at the player at whom you are aiming. Drop your gun.

====2) Take Aim====
If you are holding a Gun, aim it at any living player other than yourself.

====3) End Turn====
Play proceeds clockwise.

==GETTING SHOT==
If you are shot, you must reveal all of your Integrity Cards.

'''If you are NOT the Agent or Kingpin:'''
* You are eliminated from the game.
* Return any Equipment Cards in your hand to the bottom of the deck.
* Return your Gun to the center of the table.

'''If you ARE the Agent or Kingpin:'''
* You are NOT eliminated the first time you are shot; you are wounded. If you are shot while wounded, the game ends and the opposing team wins.
* Draw an Equipment Card.
* Put a Wounded Token on your Agent or Kingpin card.

==GUN RULES==
* You may only hold one Gun at a time.
* Any time you get a Gun, immediately aim it. Otherwise you may only change where you are aiming at the end of your turn during the Take Aim phase.

==EQUIPMENT RULES==
* Equipment Cards may be used in reaction to Shoot actions, during your turn, or at the end of any player's turn.
* When you use an Equipment Card, place it at the bottom of the deck.
* When you use an Equipment Card, no other Equipment Cards may be played until yours is resolved.
* The hand limit of Equipment is 1.
* Multiple Equipment Cards may be played before an action is resolved.

==WINNING THE GAME==
The HONEST team wins if the Kingpin is eliminated.

The CROOKED team wins if the Agent is eliminated.

If, at any time, a player has both the Agent and the Kingpin, that player wins alone.

==TABLE TALK==
You are encouraged to use the chat to give truthful or false information about what you have seen or accuse players of being on a team or having a specific role.

 
 

=ZOMBIES EXPANSION=
==ZOMBIE TEAM==
In addition to the Honest and Crooked teams, there is a third team: Zombies. If you are on the Zombie team, you do not win with the Honest or Crooked team. Instead, '''your team wins if you can bite a wounded Agent or Kingpin'''.

'''Note:''' If you are playing with the Bombers & Traitors expansion, you would need to eliminate any Traitors before biting a wounded Agent or Kingpin to win.

==GETTING SHOT/BITTEN==
'''If you are already a Zombie,''' you aim your Arms at yourself. If you were shot with a Gun, the player who shot you keeps their Gun.

'''If you are NOT a Zombie,''' flip over all of your Integrity Cards. Then:
* '''If you are a Leader,''' follow the same rules as getting shot in the base game.
* '''If you are NOT a Leader,''' you become a zombie (see Becoming a Zombie).

==BECOMING A ZOMBIE==
You become a zombie when you are a non-Leader, non-Zombie and you are shot.

'''When that happens, do the following:'''
* Reveal all of your hidden cards.
* Take zombie Arms and aim them at yourself.
* You are no longer on the Honest or Crooked team but instead you are now on the Zombie team.
* '''You Keep:'''
** Any Equipment you had.
* '''You Lose:'''
** Any Gun you were holding.

==ZOMBIE ACTIONS==
When you are a zombie and you take your turn, instead of the usual turn actions, you can take one of these:

'''Bite:''' Bite the player you are targeting with your Arms. You must choose a new target in the Aim phase.

'''Equip:''' Draw an Equipment card.

After you take your action, you may aim your Arms at any player.

===Zombie Equipment and Arms===
* Zombie players may use Equipment just like non-Zombie players.
* Any Equipment that affects or targets a Gun or those holding a Gun affects or targets zombie Arms or those with zombie Arms.
* Any Equipment that affects or targets Shoot or shooting affects or targets Bite or biting.
* Any Equipment that would make a zombie drop their Gun instead makes them aim their Arms at themself.
* Any Equipment that affects or targets an eliminated player may target a zombie player.
* Bringing a player back to life (like with Defibrillator) unzombifies them.
* A zombie cannot steal a Gun.
* A zombie cannot take the Grab a Gun action.

 
 

=BOMBERS AND TRAITORS EXPANSION=
This expansion adds the possibility that there will be Traitors and/or Bombers in the game.

==BOMBER TEAM==
You are a Bomber if all 3 of your Integrity cards have a BOMB icon. If you are a Bomber, you are not on the Honest nor Crooked team. You are on the Bomber team.

'''Win Condition:''' You and all other Bombers win if you are shot by another player or if you eliminate the Agent or Kingpin with a Gun.

'''Note:''' If you eliminate the Agent or Kingpin and there is at least one surviving Traitor, all Traitors also win.

==TRAITOR TEAM==
You are a Traitor if all 3 of your Integrity cards have a KNIFE icon. If you are a Traitor, you are not on the Honest nor Crooked team. You are on the Traitor team.

'''Win Condition:''' You and all other Traitors win if you are alive when the Agent or Kingpin is eliminated.

'''Note:''' If the Agent or Kingpin was eliminated by being shot by a Gun held by a Bomber, all Bombers also win.

Gamehelpexitstrategy

2023-08-29T01:04:21Z

Zoomboom: added- you can optionally skip placing a wall in fast mode

Be the first to reach the opposite corner of your color.

On your turn, you can either move your character 1 space or place a wall anywhere on the board to block off two edges.

If playing in fast mode, you can do both on your turn- move 1 space and place a wall- or you can skip placing a wall.

== Moving ==
You can move to an adjacent hex, as long as there is no wall between the two hexes.

You cannot enter a colored hex that isn't of your color.

You can enter an hex already occupied with another character. In this case, you have to make a second move action, to an adjacent hex that isn't occupied by a character (meaning you cannot ''jump'' over multiple characters in a turn).

== Walling ==
You have a limited personal supply for walls.

The 2 parts of your walls must be between hexes (you can't place walls that would be half out of the board).

You can never place a wall that would completely prevent a character from reaching its goal (you must always leave a legal path for every character).

Gamehelpexitstrategy

2023-07-27T19:42:18Z

Zoomboom: Described fast mode.

Be the first to reach the opposite corner of your color.

On your turn, you can either move your character 1 space or place a wall anywhere on the board to block off two edges.

If playing in fast mode, you do both on your turn- move 1 space and place a wall.

== Moving ==
You can move to an adjacent hex, as long as there is no wall between the two hexes.

You cannot enter a colored hex that isn't of your color.

You can enter an hex already occupied with another character. In this case, you have to make a second move action, to an adjacent hex that isn't occupied by a character (meaning you cannot ''jump'' over multiple characters in a turn).

== Walling ==
You have a limited personal supply for walls.

The 2 parts of your walls must be between hexes (you can't place walls that would be half out of the board).

You can never place a wall that would completely prevent a character from reaching its goal (you must always leave a legal path for every character).

Gamehelpcantstop

2023-06-30T00:49:19Z

Zoomboom: I made some grammar / word choice updates, for clarification.

Can't Stop is a game of rolling dice and knowing when to stop pushing one's luck.

==Rules==

There are 11 routes to the top of the board, represented by columns 2 to 12. At the start of the game, all routes are open and players may overtake one another. Once a player has reached the top of the board, that route is closed and other players lose their progress. The winner is the first player that reaches the top of the board by three different routes.

Can't Stop is played with a board consisting of 11 columns, numbered from 2 to 12, four dice, and three black circles as temporary markers. Each player has a progress marker in their color for each column.

===Splitting Dice===

On a player's turn, they roll the four dice, split them into two groups of two dice however they like, then advance a step on each column whose sum is equal to some group of the dice.

Examples:

* Roll: 3,3,4,4. The player can split them to 3,3 and 4,4, advancing a step on each of columns 6 and 8, or the player can split them to 3,4 and 3,4, advancing two steps on column 7.
* Roll: 2,3,4,5. The player can split them in three ways: 2,3 and 4,5 (columns 5 and 9), or split them to 2,4 and 3,5 (columns 6 and 8), or or split them to 2,5 and 3,4 (columns 7 and 7).
* Roll: 4,4,4,6. There is only one way to split it: 4,4 and 4,6, which means columns 8 and 10.
* Roll: 1,1,1,1. There is only one way to split it: 1,1 and 1,1, which means columns 2 and 2.

===Temporary Markers===

In a turn, a player may only advance in three columns. (This is pivotally important to understanding what moves are allowed or disallowed.) The temporary markers are to help the player in keeping track of their progress. However, one must make as many moves as possible.

Examples:

* The player hasn't moved at all and rolled 2,3,4,5. They decide to split as 2,3 and 4,5, advancing on columns 5 and 9. This is allowed; they advanced on columns 5 and 9. They may not choose to advance only on column 5 or only on column 9 because they must perform all moves possible.
* The player has moved on columns 4 and 5 and rolled 2,3,4,5. They decide to split as 2,3 and 4,5, advancing on columns 5 and 9. This is allowed; they advanced on columns 5 and 9.
* The player has moved on columns 2 and 3 and rolled 2,3,4,5. They decide to split as 2,3 and 4,5, and so should have advanced on columns 5 and 9. But this is not allowed; it makes them advance on four columns. They must pick either 5 or 9 to advance from.
* The player has moved on columns 2, 3, and 12 and rolled 2,3,4,5. No matter how they split the dice, they cannot advance.

===Stopping One's Turn===

A player keeps their turn until they choose to stop or they cannot advance (like the last of the examples above). In the former case, the progress markers for the columns advanced are moved up to the locations of the temporary markers. In the latter case, the temporary markers are removed; the progress markers are not moved.

Examples:
* The player decides to stop after advancing 3 steps on column 7, 2 steps on column 8, and 1 step on column 9, after previously have advanced 4 steps on column 6 and 3 steps on column 9. Now their position is 4 steps on column 6, 3 steps on column 7, 2 steps on column 8, and 4 steps on column 9.
* The player advanced 3 steps on column 7, 2 steps on column 8, and 1 step on column 9, after previously have advanced 4 steps on column 6 and 3 steps on column 9. They roll the dice and cannot advance. The temporary markers are removed, and the progress markers remain at 4 steps on column 6, and 3 steps on column 9.

===Completing A Column===

When the player decides to stop and they have reached the end of a column, that column is scored for that player and no other player may advance in that column. For example, if column 5 has been scored and the player splits a 2,3,4,5 to 2,3 and 4,5, they cannot advance on column 5 because it has been scored.

===Winning Condition===

When a player completes three columns, they win.

==Strategy==

The strategy of the game is based on knowing when to stop. As one keeps playing, they still have the risk of losing all progress on the turn; stopping will save the progress but gives the other players a turn each. Knowing which is more beneficial helps.

Columns with more extreme numbers are less probable (a 2 is only scored by a 1,1 and a 12 is only scored by a 6,6, while a 7 is scored by six pairs of dice), so they have fewer steps to work on. One's strategy can also revolve on choosing whether to aim for middle columns or extreme columns.

One more element of strategy consists of pursuing the same columns as your opponent(s), as scoring the column before they do can deprive them of their advantage, esp. if they are only ahead in a few columns including this.

Gamehelpyatzy

2021-02-08T22:03:20Z

Zoomboom: /* Lower section */

==Yahtzee==

A player rolls five dice to begin a turn. They are then allowed to take up to two rerolls, each reroll being any number of those dice. (In BGA, you click on the dice that you want to reroll.)

After those rerolls, or when the player chooses to stop rolling, the player must choose which category to score the final result. There are 13 scoring categories, and each must be used for one of the 14 rounds. This can often force a player to take a zero score for some categories.

Scoring for Yahtzee are as follows

===Upper section===

1-6: One category for each number on the die. In these categories, the score is the sum of the pips on the dice of that number.

''For example, a roll of 1-1-2-5-5 could be scored as 2 points in the "ones" category, 2 points in the "twos" category, 10 points in the "fives" category, or 0 points in the "threes," "fours," or "sixes."''

If a player scores a total of at least 63 points across these six boxes combined, a bonus of 35 points is added to their final score.

===Lower section===

* '''Three-Of-A-Kind''' At least three dice showing the same face -- Points equal the sum of all 5 dice (not just the 3 of a kind)
* '''Four-Of-A-Kind''' At least four dice showing the same face -- Points equal the sum of all 5 dice (not just the 4 of a kind)
* '''Full House''' A three-of-a-kind and a pair -- 25 points
* '''Small Straight''' Four dice having sequential numbers 1-2-3-4, 2-3-4-5, or 3-4-5-6) -- 30 points
* '''Large Straight''' Five dice having sequential numbers (1-2-3-4-5 or 2-3-4-5-6) -- 40 points
* '''Yahtzee''' All five dice showing the same face -- 50 points. If you get a 2nd yahtzee, you automatically get 100 bonus points, and can use it as a "joker" to score maximum points in another category in the bottom section.
* '''Chance''' Any combination -- points equal the sum of all 5 dice

==Yams==

In the game of Yams, the categories and calculations are slightly different. Scores are generally higher.

===Upper section===

This is similar to Yahtzee but the bonus is calculated differently. The bonus threshold is 60 points, and is 30 points + the difference between the score achieved and 60.
For example: When you complete your upper with 63, you would score 63 + 30 + (63-60) = 96 points.

===Middle section===

This is a higher and lower section which are similar to Chance in Yahtzee and a bonus that is the difference between them.
* '''Plus''' - scores the sum of all dice
* '''Minus''' - scores the sum of all dice
* '''Delta''' - automatically calculated - scores the '''Plus''' score minus the '''Minus''' score

So if the Plus score was 22 and the Minus score was 13, the Delta score would be nine. Like subtraction.

===Lower section===

Scoring is different here for four of a kind and there is no three of a kind. There is no chance. Yams is more generous: four 1s will net you 40+ points in four of a kind, whereas in Yahtzee it would net you a maximum of 10 points.
* '''Four of a Kind''' - 40 points plus the sum of the dice
* '''Full House''' - 30 points plus the sum of all dice
* '''Small Straight''' - 45 points
* '''Large Straight''' - 50 points
* '''Yahtzee (Yams)''' - 50 points plus sum of dice
* '''Rigole''' - four matching dice and one which has the inverse pip configuration on it. So, for example: 4-4-4-4-3, 5-5-5-5-2, 1-1-1-1-6

Gamehelpsevenwonders

2021-02-07T05:39:01Z

Zoomboom: /* Gameplay */

== Overview ==

In [https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/68448/7-wonders 7 Wonders] your aim is to make your civilization thrive over three ''ages'', by ramping up your production of raw and/or manufactured goods, building different types of constructions, and taking care of your relations with your neighbors. During the game, you can also build and upgrade your ''wonder'', which gives you additional advantages (points or capabilities).

The player with the most points at the end of the game wins.

== Table setup ==

Number of players:
* it is possible to play with 3 to 7 players on BoardGameArena.
* BoardGameArena suggests 4 players
* [https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/68448/7-wonders BoardGameGeek community] suggests 4-5 players.

Choices:
* ''Game mode'': normal and training
* ''Game speed'': as any other game
* ''Wonder board side'': allow players to choose their preferred side of their Wonder board, or set it randomly

== Preparation ==

If ''Wonder board side'' has been set to ''Choose Wonder side'', at the very beginning the players can choose between two sides of their Wonder board. Side A is usually easier to accomplish.

== Gameplay ==

The game proceeds over 3 ''ages'', each comprising 6 rounds.

=== Card drafting rounds ===

A round is simple: you are shown a hand of cards, you take one of them and perform one action with it, then the hand is moved on to the ''next'' player (shown by the ''hands rotation'' arrow). All players do this at the same time.

Each age starts with 7 cards in each hand. The last round happens when the player has two cards in the hand: one is selected, the other is discarded.

For each card, there can be three to four actions that you can take, shown when you hover on the card:

* Construct (arrow pointing to card thumbnails): add the specific card to your capabilities, paying its associated cost if any. The cost is shown on the top left of the card; a symbol over it shows if you are allowed to do this move:
** a red cross indicates that you don't have and can't gather the necessary resources to construct
** a yellow check mark with a number indicates how much you have to pay your neighbors to gather the necessary resources.
*** You can only buy resources from a neighbor if they have that resource available.
*** You pay 2 coins per resource, unless you have played a yellow card allowing you to buy that resource from that neighbor for only 1 coin.
** a green check mark shows that you can construct with your own resources only

* Build wonder stage (arrow pointing to a layered pyramid): use this card as a marker on the lower side of the Wonder board, gaining the shown advantages (e.g. victory points, or capabilities). The Wonder plan can only be deployed passing through the stages in order, from left to right. A symbol below the next stage you can build shows you if it's possible to build it or not, with the same convention as explained above for constructing a card;

* Sell the card for three coins (arrow pointing to a coin with a 3 inside)

* Construct a card (arrow pointing to a blank card with a red cross on the top-left corner): this is optionally shown to players who have this capability, provided by one of their wonder stage. Once per age, it's possible to construct a card without paying its cost.

Some wonder stages provide additional capabilities:

* Construct a card for free in each age: as described above
* Play last card (two blank cards with a green check mark): the last card in each age is usually discarded, but the player with this capability can play it (with the usual rules regarding the cost)
* Construct a discarded card for free (many blank cards, the bigger with a red cross on it): the player can look through all discarded cards so far and build it for free
* Copy neighboring guilds (purple card with two triangles on the sides): the player will get additional points depending on the cards equipped by the neighbors at the end of the match.

=== Fighting ===

After the last card-drafting round, the age is ended and the fighting phase begins. Military capabilities are compared to award victory or lose points. This is done automatically, but you get too see how you score with an animation.

== End of game Scoring ==

The game ends at the end of the third Age, after the Conflict tokens have been handed out.
Each player totals their civilization points and the player with the highest total is declared the winner.
In case of a tie, the player with the most coins in his or her treasury is the winner. A tie on coins is not broken further

Points are counted from 7 categories in the following order:
=== Military Conflicts ===

Each player adds their Victory and Defeat tokens (this total can be negative!).
=== Treasury Contents ===

For every 3 coins in their possession at the end of the game, players score 1 victory point. Leftover coins score no points.

=== Wonders ===

Each player then adds to their score the victory points from their wonder.

=== Civilian Structures ===

Each player adds the victory points of their Civilian structures. This amount is indicated on each Civilian structure.

=== Scientific Structures ===

The scientific cards earn victory points in two very different ways: from sets of identical symbols and from sets of 3 different symbols.
Be careful : the victory points earned by both methods are cumulative.

==== Sets of identical symbols ====
For each of the 3 existing scientific symbols, the player wins the following
points:
* only 1 symbol : 1 victory point
* 2 identical symbols: 4 victory points
* 3 identical symbols: 9 victory points
* 4 identical symbols: 16 victory points

Note:
* the number of points gained is equal to the number of symbols squared.
* there are 4 green cards for each symbol, for a maximum of 16 victory points per family of symbols.
* this maximum can be increased with the Scientific Guild and the Wonder of Babylon: 5 identical symbols earn 25 victory points and 6 identical symbols earn 36 victory points.

==== Sets of 3 different symbols ====

For each group of 3 different symbols, each player scores 7 victory points.

=== Commercial Structures ===

Some commercial structures from Age III grant victory points.

=== Guilds ===

Each Guild is worth a number of victory points depending on the configuration of the player’s city and/or that of the two neighboring cities (see description of the structures)

Gamehelpsevenwonders

2021-02-07T05:36:50Z

Zoomboom: /* Card drafting rounds */

== Overview ==

In [https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/68448/7-wonders 7 Wonders] your aim is to make your civilization thrive over three ''ages'', by ramping up your production of raw and/or manufactured goods, building different types of constructions, and taking care of your relations with your neighbors. During the game, you can also build and upgrade your ''wonder'', which gives you additional advantages (points or capabilities).

The player with the most points at the end of the game wins.

== Table setup ==

Number of players:
* it is possible to play with 3 to 7 players on BoardGameArena.
* BoardGameArena suggests 4 players
* [https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/68448/7-wonders BoardGameGeek community] suggests 4-5 players.

Choices:
* ''Game mode'': normal and training
* ''Game speed'': as any other game
* ''Wonder board side'': allow players to choose their preferred side of their Wonder board, or set it randomly

== Preparation ==

If ''Wonder board side'' has been set to ''Choose Wonder side'', at the very beginning the players can choose between two sides of their Wonder board. Side A is usually easier to accomplish.

== Gameplay ==

The game proceeds over 3 ''ages'', each comprising 6 rounds.

=== Card drafting rounds ===

A round is simple: you are shown a hand of cards, you take one of them and perform one action with it, then the hand is moved on to the ''next'' player (shown by the ''hands rotation'' arrow). All players do this at the same time.

Each age starts with 7 cards in each hand. The last round happens when the player has two cards in the hand: one is selected, the other is discarded.

For each card, there can be three to four actions that you can take, shown when you hover on the card:

* Construct (arrow pointing to card thumbnails): add the specific card to your capabilities, paying its associated cost if any. The cost is shown on the top left of the card; a symbol over it shows if you are allowed to do this move:
** a red cross indicates that you don't have and can't gather the necessary resources to construct
** a yellow check mark with a number indicates how much you have to pay your neighbors to gather the necessary resources.
(You can only buy resources from a neighbor if they have that resource available. You pay 2 coins per resource, unless you have played a yellow card allowing you to
buy that resource from that neighbor for only 1 coin.)
** a green check mark shows that you can construct with your own resources only

* Build wonder stage (arrow pointing to a layered pyramid): use this card as a marker on the lower side of the Wonder board, gaining the shown advantages (e.g. victory points, or capabilities). The Wonder plan can only be deployed passing through the stages in order, from left to right. A symbol below the next stage you can build shows you if it's possible to build it or not, with the same convention as explained above for constructing a card;

* Sell the card for three coins (arrow pointing to a coin with a 3 inside)

* Construct a card (arrow pointing to a blank card with a red cross on the top-left corner): this is optionally shown to players who have this capability, provided by one of their wonder stage. Once per age, it's possible to construct a card without paying its cost.

Some wonder stages provide additional capabilities:

* Construct a card for free in each age: as described above
* Play last card (two blank cards with a green check mark): the last card in each age is usually discarded, but the player with this capability can play it (with the usual rules regarding the cost)
* Construct a discarded card for free (many blank cards, the bigger with a red cross on it): the player can look through all discarded cards so far and build it for free
* Copy neighboring guilds (purple card with two triangles on the sides): the player will get additional points depending on the cards equipped by the neighbors at the end of the match.

=== Fighting ===

After the last card-drafting round, the age is ended and the fighting phase begins. Military capabilities are compared to award victory or lose points. This is done automatically, but you get too see how you score with an animation.

== End of game Scoring ==

The game ends at the end of the third Age, after the Conflict tokens have been handed out.
Each player totals their civilization points and the player with the highest total is declared the winner.
In case of a tie, the player with the most coins in his or her treasury is the winner. A tie on coins is not broken further

Points are counted from 7 categories in the following order:
=== Military Conflicts ===

Each player adds their Victory and Defeat tokens (this total can be negative!).
=== Treasury Contents ===

For every 3 coins in their possession at the end of the game, players score 1 victory point. Leftover coins score no points.

=== Wonders ===

Each player then adds to their score the victory points from their wonder.

=== Civilian Structures ===

Each player adds the victory points of their Civilian structures. This amount is indicated on each Civilian structure.

=== Scientific Structures ===

The scientific cards earn victory points in two very different ways: from sets of identical symbols and from sets of 3 different symbols.
Be careful : the victory points earned by both methods are cumulative.

==== Sets of identical symbols ====
For each of the 3 existing scientific symbols, the player wins the following
points:
* only 1 symbol : 1 victory point
* 2 identical symbols: 4 victory points
* 3 identical symbols: 9 victory points
* 4 identical symbols: 16 victory points

Note:
* the number of points gained is equal to the number of symbols squared.
* there are 4 green cards for each symbol, for a maximum of 16 victory points per family of symbols.
* this maximum can be increased with the Scientific Guild and the Wonder of Babylon: 5 identical symbols earn 25 victory points and 6 identical symbols earn 36 victory points.

==== Sets of 3 different symbols ====

For each group of 3 different symbols, each player scores 7 victory points.

=== Commercial Structures ===

Some commercial structures from Age III grant victory points.

=== Guilds ===

Each Guild is worth a number of victory points depending on the configuration of the player’s city and/or that of the two neighboring cities (see description of the structures)