Board Game Arena - User contributions [en]

Tips thegang

2026-10-25T16:02:14Z

X: /* Simple pre-flop valuation mathematics */ Minor edit

''The following tips aren’t set-in-stone rules, but are meant to give you an idea of how communication works in this game. As a group, figure out for yourselves how you’d like to communicate best without discussing your hand.''

This is a ''strategy guide'' for ''The Gang'' focused on **rank‑only** chip selection. It offers play tips and simple repeatable conventions for mapping numbered chips to card ranks to help consistency and thus winning.

Do not be afraid to '''take chips away''' from other players. This is exactly how you communicate the quality of your own hand and help others to categorize you. The more the chips move, the more communication takes place.

Be willing to be wrong, and reconsider your situation. Everyone makes mistakes.

Always evaluate the '''current state''', not how good it might still become.

== Change your thinking from poker ==

* '''Its a team game!''' The goal is communication. You want everyone to feel permitted to take the chips they need, and be willing to work together to fix errors and improve! Try to follow consistent patterns so others can read you well. And of course you should never bluff!
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.''' Base your chip choice exclusively on the two ranks in your hand, what you have already made on the board, and what others are showing. Do not consider suits, connected numbers, or draws that rely on future cards to make anything. Odds usually are that you won't hit them, so the pattern is to inform only when you do.
* '''You're not aiming for the best hand or to win the best chip.''' You only win when all the order is right. Your four of a kind or straight flush means nothing if others wind up out of order.
* '''Big attention on your partners.''' You may have a miserable or dominant hand, but paying attention to the other players' movements can help sort out problems in this hand or show patterns for future ones. And it'll probably improve your actual poker in the long run too!
* '''Conservative default.''' Your goal isn't to push people around like it can be in poker, but to legitimately understand where your cards sit in relation to the others. It can be easy to overvalue your cards. In the preflop stage, default to slightly conservative picks where you might have otherwise liked to push, and only escalate when very strong or when community cards materially change your actual hand strength. In an argument over a chip? Think about what option you may be missing, as you can't win by forcing them out like you can in poker.

== Core conventions to adopt ==
* '''Establish a ranking convention.''' Map each chip number to a clear percentile bucket so everyone interprets chip choices the same way.
* '''Preflop: focus on differentiating the top card most.''' Differences in top card heavily decide hands. Then if rankings look very close, narrow down with signals to differentiate your kicker if necessary.
* '''Controlled chip theft.''' Taking another player’s chip is the only legal information signal—use it to show ranking, correct obvious misrankings, but never to bluff.
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Quickly taking a chip signals a stronger rank; taking time to pick a chip, or picking then returning a chip, signals a weaker rank.
* '''Watch for board damage.''' If you make two pairs, but the board makes another pair, lower pairs are lost. You can be ahead of others, then fall behind them without anyone hitting.
* '''Consider board options.''' If there are four clubs on the board, there may well be multiple flushes. Consider higher and lower straights. And use what is on the board to determine options for opponent cards.
* '''Common style: assume everyone missed''': When a new card is revealed each individual player will on average be more likely to miss upgrading in any random situation. Yes, with a few players, someone may well have hit an improvement, but you don't know who. Therefore many BGA players tend to default to taking the chip they had prior to the reveal when they miss, and then wait until someone moves up from below to give way. However, some players do prefer to move down a chip to show they haven't hit. Though this tends to require more communication, and can lead to confusion if different players are using different styles. Either way, watch for players coming up, and give way to them (by going down a chip) if you didn't hit and should now be lower than their signaled improvement.

== Simple pre-flop valuation mathematics ==
When suits are ignored, here is the rough statistical position all chips initially tend to mathematically wind up as:

*Treat any pocket pair as better than any other hand: 22>AK because it is already a pair.
* Suits have no value.
* Connectors (7&8) have no value.
* Don't put value on speculative hands.
* The median hand is around J8.

'''''This table is only the mathematical average truth, not the usual strategy of BGA players!:'''''
{| class="wikitable"
! colspan="5" |Mathematical estimated average position
|-
!Chips
!6 players
!5 players
!4 players
!3 players
|-
|6
|pairs / A
|
|
|
|-
|5
|A / K
|pairs / A
|
|
|-
|4
|K / Q
|K
|pairs / A
|
|-
|3
|J / T
|Q / J
|K / Q
|pairs / A / K
|-
|2
|9 / 8
|T / 9 / 8
|J / T / 9
|Q / J / T
|-
|1
|7
|7
|8 / 7
|9 / 8 / 7
|}
While this is average statistics, many on BGA instead use a different pattern to emphasize high card information.

When you play regularly with people, you may develop different chip standards. But this table and the one further below are general loose ideas for BGA players which haven't known where to roughly value cards before.

''Note that this school is weak on ranking low card hands.''
== Pre-flop advice ==
This sets the information, so do try to get it right (especially higher cards that are more likely to count)

Start by giving the expected position of your cards (see the tables above and especially further below). Sort out chip clashes by further signals to narrow down within the ranges and for kickers if necessary. And then you may need to adjust if the entire hand is weak or strong (it's not impossible that like an 8-3 winds up with the 6 chip, or a K-Q winds up with the 1 chip!). Make room for those fighting on the end of you; you took the 2 because you have an 8... and then two players fight over the 1 chip? You are likely really the 3 because they are both so low.

If in a busy fight for chips, relook at each player's first choice. If someone started chip 3 and is fighting for 4, and everyone else started chip 4 or more, high chance the 3 should go lower, perhaps even ending up all the way down at the 1 chip if everyone else is desiring the 4 only.
== Post-flop advice ==
When hitting a double pair or better fight for the highest token. After someone steals it 2 or 3 times from you re-evaluate the board to look for potential straight/flushes (note that many straights/flushes are impossible from the first chip choice). Then evaluate for the bottom double pair or top one.

When having a pocket hand pair pre flop higher than all value on the table, fight for the highest token a couple times, until it's clear someone has 2 pairs or something greater.

When hitting top pair (the pair from the highest value on the table) take the highest token. You could insist once depending of first chip choice.

When hitting middle pair, take the second highest token if that's an increase from the first round. If it's the same value or below, wait for others choices. Note that it's possible that you took the highest token twice. On that case, others doesn't know you hit a pair, and you should take that into consideration for future rounds.

When hitting bottom pair, very slowly move up if low, and perhaps wait for others choices, putting yourself the lowest of those which improved. You may also need to weigh against the prior high chips that may have had pocket pairs. If you have moved up slowly it should be more apparent to them where they sit.

When hitting nothing, generally it is best to let lower chips declare their direction first, then give way to anyone showing a hit better than your cards. Some people automatically drop a token 1 or 2 below their first chip if nobody reacts, but many see this as confusing/overly complicated.

Generally it is best not to revalue your preflop cards versus someone else on the flop. There is already a lot of possible movement with three cards, and any shift can be seen as a hit or confusing. Usually people wait until the end to renegotiate their initial cards; trust the positions you established preflop during the middle of the game, even if you are suspicious, and then if the facts line up at the end, first take your location based on where the preflop position would put you... then try offering lower or higher a bit after the final hits have been signaled.

When 3+ players improved post flop and the chip to end up with isn't obvious, you should first make sure everyone understands which players improved. Then, pay attention to how much strength people showed in movements, and look at the approximate cards their preflop chip and movement back then suggested. If you hit on the flop and move up from a middle hand, and then the preflop 1 chip tries at all to be above you/someone else showing a hit, that should mean they have at least the middle pair. Come up with lowest pair very slowly.

== Turn and river advice ==
If that new card open straight and flushes, nearly any hand could goes for the highest chip immediately. Even if you got a double pair you should be careful about fighting for this highest token. Take into consideration how many straight and flushes there is. If it's really few (1 or 2) then the player which hit those should insist a lot for the highest token. That mean with a slightly weaker hand (like double pair) you could try to insist for 6. On the contrary if there is lots of straight and flushes (4 or 9+), take a lower chip more easily.

If that new card is above all others cards a new pair most likely put yourself as the best or second best hand, so take a really high chip.

If that new card is around the same value of others, take an higher chip, and let others decide where they put yourself. They know which pair you got but you don't know which pair they got.

If that new card is below all others cards, put yourself as the higher chip between those which never improved.

Note that pocket pairs can rank weirdly.

Finally at the River, the nuts (highest possible hand) should insist a lot for the highest token since there is nothing to lose. Knowing that, the second best hand can do the same. The third best hand can do the same but show weakness once after the fight while still showing they want the best token. Going lower than that is much trickier, especially for flushes board.

== Correcting mistakes ==
If you or someone else made a mistake that can easily be confusing.

It can be corrected naturally by someone hitting a pair, or even rarely with two pockets pairs by someone else hitting a pair.

If it's obvious what is happening you could try to correct it immediately (post flop), especially if there was some fight pre flop.

But I would advise you to let everything goes as planned, and in the final turn, still take your normal chip if the river can be confusing, and after everyone is happy with their chip, fight for the potential mistake which happened earlier. That's because when doing that, it look like to others that you hit a pair, which is extremely confusing.

== Different ways of stealing a chip ==
Let's assume you may want the chip above you. You have a lot of ways to convey information when stealing a chip (from strongest to weakest):

- '''stealing the chip one above the one you want, put it back on the table, and steal the chip you want:''' this is often after you took too much time to react. this steal is even stronger that the default one, because you are showing that other player that you are on the higher side of that chip, and will often encourage a player to give way.

- '''stealing the chip:''' this is the default move, and tends to signal that you still have some belief in your strength, but allows the other player to push harder to reemphasize their situation.

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table and waiting:''' this is the most neutral play. You show strength and encourage the other player to reconsider, but give the decision to the other player, assuming they have more information than you. Preflop, that's normally after a fight, and you give them one last chance to be below you, and then you take the lower one. At the end of the hand, after shifts from the new card, you can use it to encourage the player to look at the board and reanalyze where your had could fall. Alternatively, doing this can just mean that you want more time to think about the situation. If after a while, you take the lower or highest chip that's again some information (neutral+ or neutral-)

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table, and immediately taking the lower one:''' this is the weakest method. Usually doing this you may be asking the other player to double-check what happened earlier/confirm they really want that token, but have limited confidence that you are above them. Alternatively, you could have seen that something isn't right, and want to show it to the other player, and let them decide to correct it or not. Sometimes it is also used if you have the lowest pair after the flop and are ranked behind other pairs correctly, but then the turn is a lower card than the table and another player takes your chip to show that they have now hit a pair and are trying to move up... so you take up the chip above your previous position then immediately go back to your initial position to show that you still have a higher pair than the new position, while trying not to show any extra strength to the player above you.

'''Other stealing uses:'''

* steal the token of two others players and then take back your own token if you think something isn't right between those two players
* after the flop, when a few people hit, take the tokens of everyone which hit because you want everyone to reconsider and choose again in the complex situation that you worry may be off
* if something is really not right (like you took the highest chip pre flop, and someone else who hit a pair is sure you hitted a pair, and don't let you be under them), you can pick some tokens completely out of place. Per example if you are fighting for 3/4/5, you can take the 1, put it back, and take the 3. That's an extremely strong sign you didn't hit that pair because you will make players with chips 1&2 being confused, so it's for emergency only.

You can also drop your chip to ensure the round doesn't end so people can reconsider their positions, if the Confirm All Rounds setting is not turned on, or when people may've already voted to move on but should maybe reconsider. Or to hold play if a specialist card should be used.

==High card promesse strategy ==
High card promesse is a powerful convention change from the basic pre-flop chip valuation statistics above, offering more information on the highest cards preflop, and is commonly the pattern used on BGA.

Because high pocket cards more end up following through to usage in the end (pocket 5-4 versus 5-2 versus 4-3 will often up be completely wiped out by higher board cards, especially the kickers... whereas A-9, A-7, K-Q will fairly often all matter), this method typically leads to more victories by helping narrow down top-end situations more precisely:

{| class="wikitable"
! colspan="5" |Typical BGA chip strategy
|-
!Chips
!6 players
!5 players
!4 players
!3 players
|-
|6
|pairs / A
|
|
|
|-
|5
|K
|pairs / A
|
|
|-
|4
|Q
|K
|pairs / A
|
|-
|3
|J / T
|Q / J
|K / Q
|pairs / A / K
|-
|2
|9 / 8
|T / 9 / 8
|J / T / 9
|Q / J / T
|-
|1
|7
|7
|8 / 7
|9 / 8 / 7
|}
In this convention every player first chip pick should typically be in this range.

Then you quickly have information on what cards all players have. And can then settle closer differences and shift upward or downward if the table's cards are weaker or stronger. (A 9 can still even wind up being the top chip if everyone else shows very low cards. But you cannot know that or move that way until early signaling makes that clear)

== Final valuation hints ==

=== Board hands: lowest value ===
If the best five card set between you and the board don't include your cards at all, your hand is the lowest possible value.

For example if you had 6-2, and the board comes A-A-9-3-3, there is no possible hand weaker than yours. You can take the 1 chip even if you highly suspect someone else has lower than you, because both of your hands are A-A-9-3-3. This often winds up resolving problems at the bottom of the chips.

=== When there are two pairs on the table and you hit nothing: only your highest card matters ===
For example with a board JJ447, and you have A6, the 6 will not matter, your hand is the same as A2 and AK. So any earlier fights where you believe you both had aces no longer matter. Just ensure you don't give way to a king-high hand, and certainly all pairs and higher should be above you.

This means a huge thing '''for pocket pairs'''. If you have 5-5, and the board starts 6-7-7-9, '''while''' '''your hand was probably the best one pre flop (chip 6)''', was still pretty good post-flop and after the turn (only falling behind someone with a 6, 7 or 9), if another 9 comes, '''it will suddenly became the worst hand after the river''' because you can't use triple pairs... your best hand is 7-7-9-9-6, the worst possible hand. That mean that an 8-2 hand, which probably took the 1 or 2 chip pre-flop is now beating you. And so you should fight for the 1 chip and insist a lot since it's often not obvious for others players.

If you're unsure, take your best 5 cards to create your hand. That mean that AJ99752 has the same value than AJ99743: they both use AJ997 to make their best hand. '''Keep rechecking the indicator notice of what you have next to your cards''', it will help you notice when you've made a mistake.

===4 cards of a suit on the board: reanalyze heavily===
When 3 diamonds show up there is a small chance that one or perhaps two players have a flush, and they will be aggressive. But when a 4th diamond lands, it means many flushes may be made. If your flush is with the bottom card, you may need to work your way backwards behind those with higher diamonds. The pre-flop chips can offer a little hint, but sometimes it's the kicker that made the flush, sometimes it isn't. A hand with an ace of spade and a 2 of diamond is now weaker than a 4 of spade and a 3 of diamond.

Likewise if you had two diamonds and so were likely near the top with your flush, suddenly your lower diamond doesn't matter, and others may have shifted ahead of you. Still, if you have a middle or low diamond, a person that signaled the flush hit when 3 were on the board is reasonably likely to have a higher diamond.

Use the pre-flop chips and movement to gauge top possibility. A player that immediately took the 1 chip before the start shouldn't have a 10 or higher. The 6 chip could have an ace in the flush... or their 3 kicker as their flush... or their pocket pair 2 as their flush. Be open to each possibility.

===Remember, full house beats regular flushes and straights===
So watch for the board pairing up to reduce your otherwise strong position. And even with only one pair on the board, someone could match that and another. Or have a pocket pair matching the board. So even with such a strong hand early, watch for that coming from below.

Two pairs on the board? Be very ready to step back to anyone moving up to those pairs.

==Specialist and challenge cards ==

====Overcoming the challenger cards:====

*'''Blackout''' (forget chips): Generally one of the hardest. Try to remember your position, and keep a rough note of movements and those around you. But often may need to verify situations a lot later on because even if you remember everything, others may not. Best to aim to try to move the game quicker, making less chip switches and rechecks. Try to be forgiving of mistakes, it's complicated. Some players use a method of everyone taking their prior chip to start the round, just to remind everyone. However, if not everyone does it, this too can add confusion.
*'''Security Cameras''' (3 pocket cards): Everything gets a lot more complicated. Consider that crazier options now exist (someone could have 3 or 4 of a kind after a quiet flop... someone could have 3 cards for a straight or flush and hit early). Generally you want to devalue on preflop chips roughly 1 chip (pocket pairs are much more likely, so many play A as top-1, K as top-2 with decent table sizes, etc). Play conservative always, odds of every hit is greater with a third card. Wwatch more for pocket cards. '''And don't forget that a third pair (or a second triple) doesn't matter!'''
*'''Laser Tripwires/Motion Detector''' (one players get new cards after flop): Seems to often be overlooked by other players; often good to announce in chat that you (or another) has new cards. It can be very hard to re-find position, especially if many hit (and including the new cards). The player with the new cards may not have closely watched the position battles in other zones, so may need information extra times.
*'''Quick Access/Hasty Getaway''' (skip chips for a round): Quick Access can be tough if similar pocket cards and busy flop. But Hasty Getaway especially still has more limited possibilities... just weigh all possibilities. Use slow/quicker advancing for low/high pair and double hits similar to the flop. Again in general the theme is to aim to be a little conservative as others are more likely to have improved in both.
*'''Noise Sensors/Ventilation Shaft''' (lock a chip value): Don't take quick at all unless you're very strong (Ventilation) or weak (Noise). Huddle around the next chip. Perhaps repeatedly pick up and put down the neighboring chip quickly to emphasize you are fairly near the special chip (if you have like 6-3 you could take the 2 repeatedly in Noise Sensors, if you have like A-K or 4-4 you could take the second-highest chip repeatedly in Ventilation Shaft)
*'''Retina Scan/Fingerprint Scan''' (need extra group vote to pass): Try to be more watchful of movements as the game goes on, even in other parts of order, especially as the game goes on. For Retina Scan (guess a player's card value) watch how hit pairs move in relation to each other. The chips nearest the pre-flop position of the final top chip may have extra information, so use them. Pocket pairs (especially when a player stays top chip) and flushes can be absolutely brutal, do the best you can to narrow it down from the board and the player's speed in each round. For Fingerprint Scan (guess the player's result) look for the typical moves (2 regular increases suggests 2 pair or 3 of a kind [depending on whether the board already had the card]... a strong rapid jump up and aggression on the chip may show a straight or flush). Again watch for the pocket pair possibility for the top preflop chips. One helpful move can be to repeatedly take the top chip quickly on a turn where you hit something bigger. So someone already the 6 chip preflop may hammer the 6 to show 3 of a kind on a quiet flop. Or someone leading may hammer the 6 to show they've moved to a straight or flush.

====Using the specialist cards:====

*'''Informant/Getaway Driver/Mastermind''' (one player reveals info): Save it for the end, as early disputes may resolve, and new ones occur. For card reveals, try to show what others may need most (if it seems clear you hit the same pair as someone, it may be best to show your kicker [if applicable] instead) Generally show your top flush card. When voting, consider who can give the most information... if 3 players need resolving that all suggest to have either the same or uncertain pair orders, or similar preflop cards, the player in the middle could be more useful in revealing a card. Often the less experienced player may be the one to ensure. '''Always use the card''', you'll be surprised at how often it winds up useful when you didn't think it would be!
*'''Muscle''' (win grouping ties): Usually worth playing. But watch out for other players with the same hand. Pocket aces cruise along as chip 6 in a 2-4-7-10-J had with only little moves up. Playing muscle to separate uncertain middle pairs suddenly knocks them off the throne, so both the player with the top chip and the player moving up need to be mindful of that.
*'''Investor/Math Whiz''' (preflop info for all): Take advantage of it, and consider options! Someone has 14 in Math Whiz? If they're taking high preflop, they have 7-7. If they jump to top quick at flop with 6-8-J, they have 6-8. If they move up decent on a flop of 2-8-K after being a happy 2 chip, they probably have 4-8 and so middle pair (they could be overplaying a pair of 2s, but can't have a king). Use the info to doublecheck moves later (sometimes it'll rule out pairs or triples and instead point to things like flushes and straights). Remember '''an ace or 10 is not a pocket card (investor)''', and '''10/J/Q/K all count as 10 while aces count as 11 in Math Whiz'''. And remember to look out for pocket pairs!
*'''Coordinator/Con Artist''' (forced card change at start): Limited in use. Occasionally can help you know what another player has (since you saw card(s)), especially in games with less players. May be useful for newer/weaker players to give up middle cards (like 9-Q) that can often be complicated in hopes of an easier hand at the top or bottom end.
*'''Jack/Hacker''' (other card alterations): Rarely used by most groups. Hacker could be helpful to use preflop to resolve a bitter battle over a chip. Jack can occasionally settle a debate at end of the hand, though in most circumstances confuses things more. Probably best not to change your chip in expectation of the jack token until you actually have it, especially in regular movement times, as that can lead players to misunderstand your cards or widespread confusion. A jack may give you a straight? That may feel great. But is it actually useful to ordering the ranks of everyone's cards? Usually not.

==Full range and average hand pre-flop ==
This cheat sheet map recommended pre‑flop chips depending of the number of players. Use this at the table as a compact reference. Pairs are above all. All picks are '''rank‑only''' (no suits). Connector (7&8 of diamond) has no value.

''Note that even if the numbers are mathematiquely coherent, since pairs can often more easily be differenciated from A high, you could want to lower slightly the highest range. And the ranges shouldn't be uniform, the lower ranges should take more hands since there is an higher chance they doesn't matter (per example J2/J3/J4 are identical unless two of those kickers appear on the table).''

Finally, note that this sheet is only without context. It's great to know where you should put your hand initially. As soon as some player(s) take any chip(s), the value of that sheet fall pretty fast.

'''This sheet assume that there will be the same amount of players going for every chip''' (1326 possible hands)(22100 with 3 cards hand).
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!3 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|16.67%
|median 1 hand
|7/5
|T/4/2
|-
|33.33%
|between 1/2 chips
|9/8
|J/T/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 2 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|66.67%
|between 2/3 chips
|K/2
|A/7/2
|-
|83.33%
|median 3 hand
|A/5
|2/2/7
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!4 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|12,5%
|median 1 hand
|7/2
|9/6/4
|-
|25%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/7
|J/4/3
|-
|37.5%
|median 2 hand
|T/5
|Q/6/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 2/3 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|62,5%
|median 3 hand
|Q/8
|K/Q/7
|-
|75%
|between 3/4 chips
|K/9
|A/J/4
|-
|87,5%
|median 4 hand
|A/8
|5/5/T
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!5 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|T%
|median 1 hand
|6/4
|8/7/6
|-
|20%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/3
|T/7/5
|-
|30%
|median 2 hand
|9/5
|J/8/6
|-
|40%
|between 2/3 chips
|T/7
|Q/8/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 3 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|60%
|between 3/4 chips
|Q/6
|K/J/8
|-
|70%
|median 4 hand
|K/5
|A/9/2
|-
|80%
|between 4/5 chips
|A/2
|A/K/3
|-
|90%
|median 5 hand
|A/T
|7/7/9
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!6 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|8,33%
|median 1 hand
|6/2
|8/6/4
|-
|16,67%
|between 1/2 chips
|7/5
|T/4/2
|-
|25%
|median 2 hand
|8/7
|J/4/3
|-
|33,33%
|between 2/3 chips
|9/8
|J/T/5
|-
|41,67%
|median 3 hand
|T/8
|Q/9/4
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 3/4 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|58,33%
|median 4 hand
|Q/5
|K/J/2
|-
|66,67%
|between 4/5 chips
|K/2
|A/7/2
|-
|75%
|median 5 hand
|K/9
|A/J/4
|-
|83,33%
|between 5/6 chips
|A/5
|2/2/7
|-
|91,67%
|median 6 hand
|A/J
|8/8/Q
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}

Tips thegang

2026-07-13T19:29:44Z

X: /* Simple interpertation pre flop */

''The following tips aren’t set-in-stone rules, but are meant to give you an idea of how communication works in this game. As a group, figure out for yourselves how you’d like to communicate best without discussing your hand.''

Do not be afraid to '''take chips away''' from other players. This is exactly how you communicate the quality of your own hand and help others to categorize you. The more the chips move, the more communication takes place.

Always evaluate the '''current state''', not how good it might still become.
'''1st Phase''': Having a pair from the start: take a high number (and higher than your first chip), otherwise evaluate the rank of your High Card.
'''From 2nd Phase''': If something was revealed in this phase that increases your rating, take a higher (or at least equally high) chip than in the previous round. This allows fellow players to draw conclusions about your specific card values.
Conversely: If nothing fitting your hand was revealed, take the same chip of the previous round, but adapt to others players choices.

== Introduction ==
This is a concise ''strategy guide'' for ''The Gang'' focused on **rank‑only** chip selection. It defines a simple, repeatable convention for mapping numbered chips to rank percentiles.

== Core conventions to adopt ==
* '''Establish a ranking convention.''' Map each chip number to a clear percentile bucket so everyone interprets chip choices the same way.
* '''Conservative default.''' On the pre‑flop stage, default to slightly conservative picks and only escalate when community cards materially change the actual hand strength.
* '''Controlled chip theft.''' Taking another player’s chip is the only legal private signal—use it to correct obvious misrankings, not to bluff.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.''' Pre‑flop picks are based on ranks only; suitedness and flush/straight potential are ignored for the initial ranking.
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking a chip quickly signals a stronger rank; taking time to pick a chip, or picking then returning a chip, signals a weaker rank.
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.''' Base your pre‑flop chip choice exclusively on the two ranks in your hand.

== Simple interpertation pre flop ==
When suits are ignored, here is what all chips initially have (you have the exact hand at the middle of the page):

*Treat any pocket pair as better than any other hand: 22>AK
* Suits has no value.
* Connectors (7&8 of diamonds) has no value.
* Don't put value on speculative hands.
* The median hand is around J8.

{| class="wikitable"
!Chips
!6 players
!5 players
!4 players
!3 players
|-
|6
|pairs / A + High kicker
|
|
|
|-
|5
|K / A
|pairs / A
|
|
|-
|4
|J / Q
|K
|pairs / A
|
|-
|3
|9 / T
|Q8 ~ Q2 / J
|K / Q
|pairs / A / K
|-
|2
|7 / 8
|T / 9 / 8
|J / T / 9
|Q / J / T
|-
|1
|6
|7
|8 / 7
|9 / 8 / 7
|}
The few missing hands are depending of conventions: you could play them slowly preflop, and then show you are between two chips.

Note that if you play as group, you can play with any table of your choice, and simplify this table (putting all non kicker at the same chip) would be better for everyone. But the table here is to play with any player on bga which haven't read any table.

== Poker mindset ==
If you are coming from Poker, you really should change your mind on some things:

Colors has no value until you hit your flush. If you start putting value to them, others with a 97 hand will have no way to compare 96s & 98o.

Connectors has no value too else that become fastly confusing. Start by taking experience and know what you are doing before maybe putting very minor value to them.

Many top players put their pairs in the highest token possible: 22>AK. Note that it's possible too to put pairs as their real value pre flop (88=middle chip), but if you do that you must put yourself at the right place post flop.
== Pre flop advice ==
If you fight a lot for some tokens, the most important part is the first choice of every player. If someone started 3 and is fighting for 4, and everyone else started 4 or more, high chance they should be take the 1 instead.
== Post flop advices ==
When hitting a double pair or better fight for the highest token. After someone steal it twice/thrice from you re-evaluate the board to look for potential straight/flushes (note that some straight are impossible from the first chip choice). Then evaluate for the bottom double pair or high one.

When having a pocket hand pair pre flop higher than all value on the table, fight for the highest token.

When hitting top pair (the pair from the highest value on the table) take the highest token. You could insist once depending of first chip choice.

When hitting middle pair, take the second highest token if that's an increase from the first round. If it's the same value or below, wait for others choices. Note that it's possible that you took the highest token twice. On that case, others doesn't know you hit a pair, and you should take in consideration for future rounds.

When hitting bottom pair, wait for others choices, and then put yourself the lowest between those which improved.

When hitting nothing while I like taking a token 1 or 2 below my first chip if nobody react, though many people ask in chat for people to never do it and take instead the same token than the previous round. Your hand can only decreate in value with 2 pairs on the board or with 1 pair and goes from double pair to 'single pair' (read the third to last section for more informations).

== Turn and River advices ==
That card start to be really situationnal.

If that new card open straight and flushes, nearly any hand could goes for the highest chip immediately. Even if you got a double pair you should be careful about fighting for this highest token. Take into consideration how many straight and flushes there is. If it's really few (1 or 2) then the player which hit those should insist a lot for the highest token. That mean with a slightly weaker hand (like double pair) you could try to insist for 6. On the contrary if there is lots of straight and flushes (4 or 9+), take a lower chip more easily.

If that new card is above all others cards a new pair most likely put yourself as the best or second best hand, so take a really high chip.

If that new card is around the same value of others, take an higher chip, and let others decide where they put yourself. They know which pair you got but you don't know which pair they got.

If that new card is below all others cards, put yourself as the higher chip between those which never improved.

Note that pocket pairs can rank weirdly.

Finally at the River, the nuts (highest possible hand) should insist a lot for the highest token since there is nothing to lose. Knowing that, the second best hand can do the same. The third best hand can do the same but show weakness once after the fight while still showing they want the best token. Going lower than that is much trickier, especially for flushes board.

== Correcting mistakes ==
If you or someone else made a mistake that can easily be confusing.

It can be corrected naturally by someone hitting a pair, or even rarely with two pockets pairs by someone else hitting a pair.

If it's obvious what is happening you could try to correct it immediately (post flop), especially if there was some fight pre flop.

But I would advise you to let everything goes as planned, and in the final turn, still take your normal chip if the river can be confusing, and after everyone is happy with their chip, fight for the potential mistake which happened earlier. That's because when doing that, it look like to others that you hit a pair, which is extremely confusing.

== Differents ways of stealing a chip ==
Let's assume you could want the chip above you. You have a lot of ways to convey information when stealing a chip (from strongest to weakest):

- '''stealing the chip one above the one you want, put it back on the table, and steal the chip you want:''' this is often after you took too much time to react: this steal is even stronger that the default one, because you said to that other player that you are coming from the lower end of the chip above.

- '''stealing the chip:''' that's the default move

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table and waiting:''' that way is the most neutral one. You just give the decision to the other player/assume they got more informations than you. Preflop, that's normally after a fight, and you give them one last chance to be below you, and then you take the other one. Alternatively, it could mean that you want more time to think about the situation. If after a while, you take the lower or highest chip that's again some information (neutral+ or neutral-)

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table, and immediately taking the lowest one:''' that one is the weakest one. Usually by doing that you ask that other to double check what happenned earlier/confirm they really want that token. Alternatively, you could have seen that something isn't right, and want to show it to the other player, and let them decide to correct it or not. Sometimes you hit a pair, showed it post flop, the turn come with the lowest card of the table and another player take your chip because they seem to have hit a pair, so you do it while not showing extra strength.

Outside of that situation you can:

- steal the token of two others players and take back your own token if you think something isn't right between them

- take the tokens per example of everyone which hitted a pair, to put them back on the table and ask everyone to choose again

- if something is really not right (like you took the highest chip pre flop, and someone else who hit a pair is sure you hitted a pair, and don't let you be under them), you can pick some tokens completely out of place. Per example if you are fighting for 3/4/5, you can take the 1, put it back, and take the 3. That's an extremely strong sign you didn't hit that pair because you will make players with chips 1&2 being confused, so it's for emergency only.

==High card promesse ==
High card promesse is a powerful convention which give information on your highest card preflop. Taking back the table at the start of the document:

{| class="wikitable"
!Chips
!6 players
!5 players
!4 players
!3 players
|-
|6
|pairs / A
|
|
|
|-
|5
|K
|pairs / A
|
|
|-
|4
|Q
|K
|pairs / A
|
|-
|3
|J / T
|Q / J
|K / Q
|pairs / A / K
|-
|2
|9 / 8
|T / 9 / 8
|J / T / 9
|Q / J / T
|-
|1
|7
|7
|8 / 7
|9 / 8 / 7
|}
That convention force every player to make their first chip pick being in the right range.

That let everyone deduce a lot more information about each other.

On the contrary, you could not play with that and instead put more value on probabilities:

==Full range and average hand pre-flop ==
This cheat sheet map recommended pre‑flop chips depending of the number of players. Use this at the table as a compact reference. Pairs are above all. All picks are '''rank‑only''' (no suits). Connector (7&8 of diamond) has no value.

''Note that even if the numbers are mathematiquely coherent, since pairs can often more easily be differenciated from A high, you could want to lower slightly the highest range. And the ranges shouldn't be uniform, the lower ranges should take more hands since there is an higher chance they doesn't matter (per example J2/J3/J4 are identical unless two of those kickers appear on the table).''

Finally, note that this sheet is only without context. It's great to know where you should put your hand initially. As soon as some player(s) take any chip(s), the value of that sheet fall pretty fast.

'''This sheet assume that there will be the same amount of players going for every chip''' (1326 possible hands)(22100 with 3 cards hand).
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!3 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|16.67%
|median 1 hand
|7/5
|T/4/2
|-
|33.33%
|between 1/2 chips
|9/8
|J/T/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 2 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|66.67%
|between 2/3 chips
|K/2
|A/7/2
|-
|83.33%
|median 3 hand
|A/5
|2/2/7
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!4 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|12,5%
|median 1 hand
|7/2
|9/6/4
|-
|25%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/7
|J/4/3
|-
|37.5%
|median 2 hand
|T/5
|Q/6/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 2/3 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|62,5%
|median 3 hand
|Q/8
|K/Q/7
|-
|75%
|between 3/4 chips
|K/9
|A/J/4
|-
|87,5%
|median 4 hand
|A/8
|5/5/T
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!5 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|T%
|median 1 hand
|6/4
|8/7/6
|-
|20%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/3
|T/7/5
|-
|30%
|median 2 hand
|9/5
|J/8/6
|-
|40%
|between 2/3 chips
|T/7
|Q/8/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 3 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|60%
|between 3/4 chips
|Q/6
|K/J/8
|-
|70%
|median 4 hand
|K/5
|A/9/2
|-
|80%
|between 4/5 chips
|A/2
|A/K/3
|-
|90%
|median 5 hand
|A/T
|7/7/9
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!6 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|8,33%
|median 1 hand
|6/2
|8/6/4
|-
|16,67%
|between 1/2 chips
|7/5
|T/4/2
|-
|25%
|median 2 hand
|8/7
|J/4/3
|-
|33,33%
|between 2/3 chips
|9/8
|J/T/5
|-
|41,67%
|median 3 hand
|T/8
|Q/9/4
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 3/4 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|58,33%
|median 4 hand
|Q/5
|K/J/2
|-
|66,67%
|between 4/5 chips
|K/2
|A/7/2
|-
|75%
|median 5 hand
|K/9
|A/J/4
|-
|83,33%
|between 5/6 chips
|A/5
|2/2/7
|-
|91,67%
|median 6 hand
|A/J
|8/8/Q
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}

*''There was before another column which put an equal amount of combinaisons for every chip, but the 3 cards hand with it was way too out of place: A62 being median hand, and 337 being between chip 4 and 5 at 6 players was so unnatural.''

== Double pairs on the table (and single pair) ==
When there is two pairs on the table, and you hit nothing, only your highest card count.

That mean per example with a board JJ447, and you having A6, you can play that hand as if it was A2. That mean that if there was a fight earlier and you suspect someone else having better than you, you can play your hand as if it was A2 instead of A6. If that player got A8 or KQ, they could react differently.

In that same example if you got 62, you can take the lowest chip even if you highly suspect someone else has lower than you, because your hand will be JJ447 anyway.

But the most important thing is '''pocket pairs'''. If you got 22, and the second 4 arrived in the river, then '''while your hand was probably the best one pre flop''', still was good post flop and after the turn, '''it became the worst one after the river''' because you don't have a triple pair, you have the lowest possible hand: JJ447. That mean that an 82 which probably took 1 or 2 pre flop is now beating you. And so you should fight for the 1 and insist a lot since it's often not obvious for others players.

If you didn't understood that, you take your best 5 cards to create your hand. That mean that AJ99752 has the same value than AJ99743: they both use AJ997 to do their best hand.

If there is no pair on the board, and you have two pairs, then you should be high. When an unrelated pair come in the flop, now everyone which previously got one pair got the same combinaison than you (or 3 of a kind). That mean that now you should rank yourself as the best of your two pairs, which could mean going down even if others didn't improved.

== 4 cards of the same color on the table ==
'Obviously' on that kind of board, what you should be doing shift completely. Per example with 4 diamonds, we now ask you to rank yourself from the highest diamond card to the lowest diamond card. A hand with an Ace of spade and a 2 of diamond is now weaker than a 4 of spade and a 3 of diamond.

You first should put attention to which player potentially have 2 diamonds on their hand, it's more likely than their highest diamond card is high.

And then pay attention to potential flush house and straight, and good luck, it's like a situational pre flop situation.

If you hit nothing, don't hesitate to goes really low.
== Very strong connectors: advanced ==
We arrived at the end of the guide, so let's have some fun and talk again of connectors which got normally no value.

KQ is normally worst than A2, but there is lots of value of having various hand in all chips (that's why putting pairs not at the highest amount preflop have a really positive aspect too).

So if you play KQ as if you got A7, you will end up by having a KQ between two others hands with aces. When on the flop arrive one card between A, K, Q, and the low value of ace, then the problem will be resolved, and one hand will be far stronger.

The great upside is that when you compare KQ with KJ or KT, KQ will be a lot overvalued, so there will be no hesitation on which player got the better hand.

Though, on the rares cases where you got none of those cards in the table, you will need to correct your position post river, which is a great downside too.

Finally, if both A and K come during the flop, again I would advise to correct post river, that's pretty much the same problem.

Now, if you start doing the same with KJ, you lose a lot of the value, because now comparing KQ and KJ will be really difficult.

I though about doing the same with A2 but the opposing way, but the problem with that is that if a flop J62 or J92 come, others would likely put yourself into a hand K6 or K9 which is pretty bad. You have much less control of middle and bottom pair compared to top pair.

About others very strong connectors (T9, JT, QJ) I'm fine with playing them slightly higher (J5, Q5, K5). But the difference is far lower: you don't want to give them too much value and make others think you regularly hit a different pair post flop.

Tips thegang

2026-05-23T12:28:04Z

X: /* Simple interpertation pre flop for 5 players: */ typo fix

''The following tips aren’t set-in-stone rules, but are meant to give you an idea of how communication works in this game. As a group, figure out for yourselves how you’d like to communicate best without discussing your hand.''

Do not be afraid to '''take chips away''' from other players. This is exactly how you communicate the quality of your own hand and help others to categorize you. The more the chips move, the more communication takes place.

Always evaluate the '''current state''', not how good it might still become.
'''1st Phase''': Having a pair from the start: take a high number (and higher than your first chip), otherwise evaluate the rank of your High Card.
'''From 2nd Phase''': If something was revealed in this phase that increases your rating, take a higher (or at least equally high) chip than in the previous round. This allows fellow players to draw conclusions about your specific card values.
Conversely: If nothing fitting your hand was revealed, take a chip that is 1 lower. If then no one wants to indicate a hit with a higher chip, you can return to the evaluation of the previous round.

== Introduction ==
This is a concise ''pre‑flop strategy guide'' for ''The Gang'' focused on **rank‑only** pre‑flop chip selection. It defines a simple, repeatable convention for mapping numbered chips to rank percentiles, explains why the convention helps, clarifies how '''Ace‑high''' hands should be placed so both charts work smoothly, and provides two separate, actionable mapping options you can adopt at the table.

== Core conventions to adopt ==
* '''Establish a ranking convention.''' Map each chip number to a clear percentile bucket so everyone interprets chip choices the same way.
* '''Conservative default.''' On the pre‑flop stage, default to slightly conservative picks and only escalate when community cards materially change the actual hand strength.
* '''Controlled chip theft.''' Taking another player’s chip is the only legal private signal—use it to correct obvious misrankings, not to bluff.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.''' Pre‑flop picks are based on ranks only; suitedness and flush/straight potential are ignored for the initial ranking.
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking a chip quickly signals a stronger rank; taking time to pick a chip, or picking then returning a chip, signals a weaker rank.
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.''' Base your pre‑flop chip choice exclusively on the two ranks in your hand.

== Why a percentile convention helps ==
* '''Reduces ambiguity.''' Percentiles let players interpret rankings consistently.
* '''Makes steals informative.''' A chip take becomes a clear corrective statement about percentile.
* '''Improves planning.'''
** ''' Schedule Specialists and Challenges ''' deliberately because you know which percentile buckets are likely to win or lose across rounds.
** ''' Budget risk ''' by tracking how many top‑bucket rank outcomes remain and deciding when to spend a Specialist or accept a Challenge.
** ''' Assign informal roles ''' based on predictable chip distributions.
** ''' Make corrective plays efficient: ''' a chip take can reallocate risk and reduce disputes.

== Pre‑flop decision rules (rank‑only) ==
* '''Pairs are one group.''' Treat any pocket pair as a single pre‑flop signal category for the initial chip pick.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.'''
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.'''
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking quickly = stronger; taking time = weaker.
* '''No talk; use takes to correct.'''
* '''Conservative default for speculative hands.'''
* The median hand is exactly J7.

== Simple interpertation pre flop for 5 players: ==
When suits are ignored, here is what all chips initially have (you have the exact hand at the middle of the page):
{| class="wikitable"
!Chips
!Group
|-
|5
|Pairs / A high
|-
|4
|K / Q high
|-
|3
|Q low / J high
|-
|2
|10/9/8 high
|-
|1
|7 high
|}

== Post flop advices ==
When hitting a double pair or better fight for the highest token. After someone steal it twice/thrice from you re-evaluate the board to look for potential straight/flushes (note that some straight are impossible from the first chip choice). Then evaluate for the bottom double pair or high one.

When having a pocket hand pair pre flop higher than all value on the table, fight for the highest token.

When hitting top pair (the pair from the highest value on the table) take the highest token. You could insist once depending of first chip choice.

When hitting middle pair, take the second highest token if that's an increase from the first round. If it's the same value or below, wait for others choices. Note that it's possible that you took the highest token twice. On that case, others doesn't know you hit a pair, and you should take in consideration for future rounds.

When hitting bottom pair, wait for others choices, and then put yourself the lowest between those which improved.

When hitting nothing take the 1/2 token or one or two below your first chip.

== Turn and River advices ==
That card start to be really situationnal.

If that new card open straight and flushes, nearly any hand could goes for the highest chip immediately. Even if you got a double pair you should be careful about fighting for this highest token. Take into consideration how many straight and flushes there is. If it's really few (1 or 2) then the player which hit those should insist a lot for the highest token. That mean with a slightly weaker hand (like double pair) you could try to insist for 6. On the contrary if there is lots of straight and flushes (4 or 9+), take a lower chip more easily.

If that new card is above all others cards a new pair most likely put yourself as the best or second best hand, so take a really high chip.

If that new card is around the same value of others, take an higher chip, and let others decide where they put yourself. They know which pair you got but you don't know which pair they got.

If that new card is below all others cards, put yourself as the higher chip between those which never improved.

Note that pocket pairs can rank weirdly.

Finallya at the River, the nuts (highest possible hand) should insist a lot for the highest token since there is nothing to lose. Knowing that, the second best hand can do the same. The third best hand can do the same but show weakness once after the fight while still showing they want the best token. Going lower than that is much trickier, especially for flushes board.

== Correcting mistakes ==
If you or someone else made a mistake that can easily be confusing.

It can be corrected naturally by someone hitting a pair, or even rarely with two pockets pairs by someone else hitting a pair.

If it's obvious what is happening you could try to correct it immediately (post flop), especially if there was some fight pre flop.

But I would advise you to let everything goes as planned, and in the final turn, still take your normal chip if the river can be confusing, and after everyone is happy with their chip, fight for the potential mistake which happened earlier. That's because when doing that, it look like to others that you hit a pair, which is extremely confusing.

==Full range and average hand pre-flop ==
This cheat sheet map recommended pre‑flop chips depending of the number of players. Use this at the table as a compact reference. Pairs are above all. All picks are '''rank‑only''' (no suits). Connector (7&8 of diamond) has no value.

''Note that even if the numbers are mathematiquely coherent, since pairs can often more easily be differenciated from A high, you could want to lower slightly the highest range. And I'm unsure the range should be uniform, maybe the range from the outside should be bigger.''

===How to read this sheet===
*5 = top, 1 = bottom.
*'''Timing cues:''' Quick pick = stronger; taking time or returning a chip = weaker. Use timing as secondary confirmation only.
*'''Use chip takes to correct misorders''' rather than arguing.
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!3 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|16.67%
|median 1 hand
|7/5
|10/4/2
|-
|33.33%
|between 1/2 chips
|9/8
|J/10/5
|-
|50%
|median 2 hand
|J/7
|K/6/3
|-
|66.67%
|between 2/3 chips
|K/2
|A/7/2
|-
|83.33%
|median 3 hand
|A/5
|2/2/7
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!4 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|12,5%
|median 1 hand
|7/2
|10/5/5
|-
|25%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/7
|J/4/3
|-
|37.5%
|median 2 hand
|10/5
|Q/6/5
|-
|50%
|between 2/3 chips
|J/7
|K/6/3
|-
|62,5%
|median 3 hand
|Q/8
|K/Q/7
|-
|75%
|between 3/4 chips
|K/9
|A/J/4
|-
|87,5%
|median 4 hand
|A/8
|5/5/10
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!5 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|10%
|median 1 hand
|6/4
|8/7/6
|-
|20%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/3
|10/7/5
|-
|30%
|median 2 hand
|9/5
|J/8/6
|-
|40%
|between 2/3 chips
|10/7
|Q/8/5
|-
|50%
|median 3 hand
|J/7
|K/6/3
|-
|60%
|between 3/4 chips
|Q/6
|K/J/8
|-
|70%
|median 4 hand
|K/5
|A/9/2
|-
|80%
|between 4/5 chips
|A/2
|A/K/3
|-
|90%
|median 5 hand
|A/10
|7/7/9
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!6 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|8,33%
|median 1 hand
|6/2
|8/6/4
|-
|16,67%
|between 1/2 chips
|7/5
|10/4/2
|-
|25%
|median 2 hand
|8/7
|J/4/3
|-
|33,33%
|between 2/3 chips
|9/8
|J/10/5
|-
|41,67%
|median 3 hand
|10/8
|Q/9/4
|-
|50%
|between 3/4 chips
|J/7
|K/6/3
|-
|58,33%
|median 4 hand
|Q/5
|K/J/2
|-
|66,67%
|between 4/5 chips
|K/2
|A/7/2
|-
|75%
|median 5 hand
|K/9
|A/J/4
|-
|83,33%
|between 5/6 chips
|A/5
|2/2/7
|-
|91,67%
|median 6 hand
|A/J
|8/8/Q
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}

== Double pairs on the table ==
When there is two pairs on the table, and you hit nothing, only your highest card count.

That mean per example with a board JJ447, and you having A6, you can play that hand as if it was A2. That mean that if there was a fight earlier and you suspect someone else having better than you, you can play your hand as if it was A2 instead of A6. If that player got A8 or KQ, they could react differently.

In that same example if you got 62, you can take the lowest chip even if you highly suspect someone else has lower than you, because your hand will be JJ447 anyway.

But the most important thing is '''pocket pairs'''. If you got 22, and the second 4 arrived in the river, then '''while your hand was probably the best one pre flop''', still was good post flop and after the turn, '''it became the worst one after the river''' because you don't have a triple pair, you have the lowest possible hand: JJ447. That mean that an 82 which probably took 1 or 2 pre flop is now beating you. And so you should fight for the 1 and insist a lot since it's often not obvious for others players.

If you didn't understood that, you take your best 5 cards to create your hand. That mean that AJ99752 has the same value than AJ99743: they both use AJ997 to do their best hand.

== 4 cards of the same color on the table ==
'Obviously' on that kind of board, what you should be doing shift completely. Per example with 4 diamonds, we now ask you to rank yourself from the highest diamond card to the lowest diamond card. A hand with an Ace of spade and a 2 of diamond is now weaker than a 4 of spade and a 3 of diamond.

You first should put attention to which player potentially have 2 diamonds on their hand, it's more likely than their highest diamond card is high.

And then pay attention to potential flush house and straight, and good luck, it's like a situational pre flop situation.

If you hit nothing, don't hesitate to goes really low.

Tips thegang

2026-03-23T05:20:47Z

X: minor edit

''The following tips aren’t set-in-stone rules, but are meant to give you an idea of how communication works in this game. As a group, figure out for yourselves how you’d like to communicate best without discussing your hand.''

Do not be afraid to '''take chips away''' from other players. This is exactly how you communicate the quality of your own hand and help others to categorize you. The more the chips move, the more communication takes place.

Always evaluate the '''current state''', not how good it might still become.
'''1st Phase''': Having a pair from the start: definitely take the highest number, otherwise evaluate the rank of your High Card.
'''From 2nd Phase''': If something was revealed in this phase that increases your rating, take a higher (or at least equally high) chip than in the previous round. This allows fellow players to draw conclusions about your specific card values.
Conversely: If nothing fitting your hand was revealed, take a chip that is 1 lower. If then no one wants to indicate a hit with a higher chip, you can return to the evaluation of the previous round.


== Introduction ==
This is a concise ''pre‑flop strategy guide'' for ''The Gang'' focused on **rank‑only** pre‑flop chip selection. It defines a simple, repeatable convention for mapping numbered chips to rank percentiles, explains why the convention helps, clarifies how '''Ace‑high''' hands should be placed so both charts work smoothly, and provides two separate, actionable mapping options you can adopt at the table.

== Core conventions to adopt ==
* '''Establish a ranking convention.''' Map each chip number to a clear percentile bucket so everyone interprets chip choices the same way.
* '''Conservative default.''' On the pre‑flop stage, default to slightly conservative picks and only escalate when community cards materially change the actual hand strength.
* '''Controlled chip theft.''' Taking another player’s chip is the only legal private signal—use it to correct obvious misrankings, not to bluff.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.''' Pre‑flop picks are based on ranks only; suitedness and flush/straight potential are ignored for the initial ranking.
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking a chip quickly signals a stronger rank; taking time to pick a chip, or picking then returning a chip, signals a weaker rank.
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.''' Base your pre‑flop chip choice exclusively on the two ranks in your hand.

== Why a percentile convention helps ==
* '''Reduces ambiguity.''' Percentiles let players interpret rankings consistently.
* '''Makes steals informative.''' A chip take becomes a clear corrective statement about percentile.
* '''Improves planning.'''
** ''' Schedule Specialists and Challenges ''' deliberately because you know which percentile buckets are likely to win or lose across rounds.
** ''' Budget risk ''' by tracking how many top‑bucket rank outcomes remain and deciding when to spend a Specialist or accept a Challenge.
** ''' Assign informal roles ''' based on predictable chip distributions.
** ''' Make corrective plays efficient: ''' a chip take can reallocate risk and reduce disputes.

== Pre‑flop decision rules (rank‑only) ==
* '''Pairs are one group.''' Treat any pocket pair as a single pre‑flop signal category for the initial chip pick.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.'''
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.'''
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking quickly = stronger; taking time = weaker.
* '''No talk; use takes to correct.'''
* '''Conservative default for speculative hands.'''

== Two possible rank grouping charts for five players ==
When suits are ignored, every two‑card hand reduces to one of **91 distinct rank outcomes**: 13 pairs + 78 two‑rank combos. The charts below group those 91 outcomes into five buckets each.

{| class="wikitable" style="width:100%;"
|-
| style="width:50%; vertical-align:top; padding:0 8px;" |
{| class="wikitable"
! Group
! Count (of 91)
! Percentage
|-
| A) Pairs
| 13
| 14.29%
|-
| B) A/K high
| 23
| 25.27%
|-
| C) Q/J high
| 19
| 20.88%
|-
| D) 10/9/8 high
| 21
| 23.08%
|-
| E) 7 high or lower
| 15
| 16.48%
|}
|
| style="width:50%; vertical-align:top; padding:0 8px;" |
{| class="wikitable"
! Group
! Count (of 91)
! Percentage
|-
| A) Pairs or A high
| 25
| 27.47%
|-
| B) K/Q high
| 21
| 23.08%
|-
| C) J/10 high
| 17
| 18.68%
|-
| D) 9/8/7 high
| 18
| 19.78%
|-
| E) 6 high or lower
| 10
| 10.99%
|}
|}

== Ace‑high placement mapping ==
{| class="wikitable"
! Aspect
! Chart 1 guidance
! Chart 2 guidance
|-
| Where A‑high sits
| A‑high is part of Group B (A/K high)
| A‑high is part of Group A (Pairs or A high)
|-
| How to treat strong A‑highs
| AK and AQ normally claim the second chip or top of Group B; promote only when no pairs are present
| AK and AQ sit comfortably in the top bucket with pairs
|-
| How to treat weak A‑highs
| A2–A5 sit at the lower end of Group B
| A2–A5 are in the top bucket by Chart 2; adopt Chart 1 if you dislike promoting weak A‑highs
|-
| Practical rule of thumb
| Use Chart 1 to prioritize pairs
| Use Chart 2 to reward A‑high alongside pairs
|}

== Practical mapping and two separate options ==
=== Option 1: Use Chart 1 ===
* Philosophy: keep pairs distinct.
* Bucket guidance (5‑player): Top = pairs; Second = A/K high; Middle = Q/J high; Lower = 10/9/8 and 7‑low.
* When to steal: correct clear misorders.

=== Option 2: Use Chart 2 ===
* Philosophy: pairs + A‑high top bucket.
* Bucket guidance (5‑player): Top = pairs or A‑high; Second = K/Q high; Middle = J/10 high; Lower = 9/8/7 and 6‑low.
* When to steal: correct clear misorders.

== Table setup checklist ==
* Agree which chart you’re using and display it.
* Tweak boundaries if misorders are frequent.
* Set steal etiquette: corrective vs punitive.

== Closing guidance ==
* Pick one option and be consistent.
* Start conservative; shift to aggressive only after the group reliably interprets percentiles.
* Use chip takes to correct, not confuse.




==Pre‑flop Cheat Sheet ==
This cheat sheet maps common two‑rank examples to recommended pre‑flop chips for a '''5‑player baseline''', with quick adjustment rules for '''4''' and '''6''' player games. Use this at the table as a compact reference. All picks are '''rank‑only''' (no suits).

===How to read this sheet===
*'''Chip scale (5‑player baseline):''' 5 = top, 1 = bottom.
*'''Adjust for player count:''' For '''4 players''', move each recommended chip '''up one step''' (e.g., 4 → 5). For '''6 players''', move each recommended chip '''down one step''' (e.g., 3 → 2).
*'''Pairs:''' All pocket pairs map to the pair bucket pre‑flop.
*'''Timing cues:''' Quick pick = stronger; taking time or returning a chip = weaker. Use timing as secondary confirmation only.
*'''Use chip takes to correct misorders''' rather than arguing.

{| class="wikitable sortable" style="width:100%; text-align:left;"
!Example hand
!Chart 1 bucket (pairs separate)
!Chart 1 chip (5‑player)
!Chart 2 bucket (pairs + A‑high)
!Chart 2 chip (5‑player)
!Quick note / guidance
|-
|AA, KK, QQ
|Pairs
|5
|Pairs or A high
|5
|All pairs start in the pair bucket; treat uniformly pre‑flop.
|-
|AK (unsuited)
|A/K high
|4
|Pairs or A high
|5
|Strong A‑high; Chart 1 maps to chip 4, Chart 2 places in top bucket.
|-
|AQ
|A/K high
|4
|Pairs or A high
|5
|Strong A‑high; treat like AK for baseline mapping.
|-
|AJ, AT
|A/K high
|3
|Pairs or A high
|5
|Lower A‑highs; Chart 1 places lower than AK/AQ.
|-
|A9–A5
|A/K high
|3
|Pairs or A high
|5
|Weak A‑highs; Chart 1 keeps them in second/third chip range.
|-
|KQ, KJ, KT
|A/K high
|3
|K/Q high
|4
|Strong K‑high hands; Chart 2 groups them with K/Q.
|-
|QJ, QT
|Q/J high
|3
|K/Q high
|4
|Q‑J range; Chart 2 groups with K/Q for a tighter mid bucket.
|-
|JT, T9
|Q/J high
|2
|J/10 high
|3
|Connectors and high singletons; mid/low mid buckets.
|-
|T8, 98, 87
|10/9/8 high
|2
|9/8/7 high
|2
|Lower connectors and middling singletons; default to lower chips.
|-
|76, 65, 54, 43, 32
|7 high or lower
|1
|6 high or lower
|1
|Bottom ranks; speculative only pre‑flop.

|}

Tips thegang

2026-03-23T05:18:33Z

X: Added cheatsheet for 4-6p adjustment

''The following tips aren’t set-in-stone rules, but are meant to give you an idea of how communication works in this game. As a group, figure out for yourselves how you’d like to communicate best without discussing your hand.''

Do not be afraid to '''take chips away''' from other players. This is exactly how you communicate the quality of your own hand and help others to categorize you. The more the chips move, the more communication takes place.

Always evaluate the '''current state''', not how good it might still become.
'''1st Phase''': Having a pair from the start: definitely take the highest number, otherwise evaluate the rank of your High Card.
'''From 2nd Phase''': If something was revealed in this phase that increases your rating, take a higher (or at least equally high) chip than in the previous round. This allows fellow players to draw conclusions about your specific card values.
Conversely: If nothing fitting your hand was revealed, take a chip that is 1 lower. If then no one wants to indicate a hit with a higher chip, you can return to the evaluation of the previous round.


== Introduction ==
This is a concise ''pre‑flop strategy guide'' for ''The Gang'' focused on **rank‑only** pre‑flop chip selection. It defines a simple, repeatable convention for mapping numbered chips to rank percentiles, explains why the convention helps, clarifies how '''Ace‑high''' hands should be placed so both charts work smoothly, and provides two separate, actionable mapping options you can adopt at the table.

== Core conventions to adopt ==
* '''Establish a ranking convention.''' Map each chip number to a clear percentile bucket so everyone interprets chip choices the same way.
* '''Conservative default.''' On the pre‑flop stage, default to slightly conservative picks and only escalate when community cards materially change the actual hand strength.
* '''Controlled chip theft.''' Taking another player’s chip is the only legal private signal—use it to correct obvious misrankings, not to bluff.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.''' Pre‑flop picks are based on ranks only; suitedness and flush/straight potential are ignored for the initial ranking.
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking a chip quickly signals a stronger rank; taking time to pick a chip, or picking then returning a chip, signals a weaker rank.
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.''' Base your pre‑flop chip choice exclusively on the two ranks in your hand.

== Why a percentile convention helps ==
* '''Reduces ambiguity.''' Percentiles let players interpret rankings consistently.
* '''Makes steals informative.''' A chip take becomes a clear corrective statement about percentile.
* '''Improves planning.'''
** ''' Schedule Specialists and Challenges ''' deliberately because you know which percentile buckets are likely to win or lose across rounds.
** ''' Budget risk ''' by tracking how many top‑bucket rank outcomes remain and deciding when to spend a Specialist or accept a Challenge.
** ''' Assign informal roles ''' based on predictable chip distributions.
** ''' Make corrective plays efficient: ''' a chip take can reallocate risk and reduce disputes.

== Pre‑flop decision rules (rank‑only) ==
* '''Pairs are one group.''' Treat any pocket pair as a single pre‑flop signal category for the initial chip pick.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.'''
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.'''
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking quickly = stronger; taking time = weaker.
* '''No talk; use takes to correct.'''
* '''Conservative default for speculative hands.'''

== Two possible rank grouping charts for five players ==
When suits are ignored, every two‑card hand reduces to one of **91 distinct rank outcomes**: 13 pairs + 78 two‑rank combos. The charts below group those 91 outcomes into five buckets each.

{| class="wikitable" style="width:100%;"
|-
| style="width:50%; vertical-align:top; padding:0 8px;" |
{| class="wikitable"
! Group
! Count (of 91)
! Percentage
|-
| A) Pairs
| 13
| 14.29%
|-
| B) A/K high
| 23
| 25.27%
|-
| C) Q/J high
| 19
| 20.88%
|-
| D) 10/9/8 high
| 21
| 23.08%
|-
| E) 7 high or lower
| 15
| 16.48%
|}
|
| style="width:50%; vertical-align:top; padding:0 8px;" |
{| class="wikitable"
! Group
! Count (of 91)
! Percentage
|-
| A) Pairs or A high
| 25
| 27.47%
|-
| B) K/Q high
| 21
| 23.08%
|-
| C) J/10 high
| 17
| 18.68%
|-
| D) 9/8/7 high
| 18
| 19.78%
|-
| E) 6 high or lower
| 10
| 10.99%
|}
|}

== Ace‑high placement mapping ==
{| class="wikitable"
! Aspect
! Chart 1 guidance
! Chart 2 guidance
|-
| Where A‑high sits
| A‑high is part of Group B (A/K high)
| A‑high is part of Group A (Pairs or A high)
|-
| How to treat strong A‑highs
| AK and AQ normally claim the second chip or top of Group B; promote only when no pairs are present
| AK and AQ sit comfortably in the top bucket with pairs
|-
| How to treat weak A‑highs
| A2–A5 sit at the lower end of Group B
| A2–A5 are in the top bucket by Chart 2; adopt Chart 1 if you dislike promoting weak A‑highs
|-
| Practical rule of thumb
| Use Chart 1 to prioritize pairs
| Use Chart 2 to reward A‑high alongside pairs
|}

== Practical mapping and two separate options ==
=== Option 1: Use Chart 1 ===
* Philosophy: keep pairs distinct.
* Bucket guidance (5‑player): Top = pairs; Second = A/K high; Middle = Q/J high; Lower = 10/9/8 and 7‑low.
* When to steal: correct clear misorders.

=== Option 2: Use Chart 2 ===
* Philosophy: pairs + A‑high top bucket.
* Bucket guidance (5‑player): Top = pairs or A‑high; Second = K/Q high; Middle = J/10 high; Lower = 9/8/7 and 6‑low.
* When to steal: correct clear misorders.

== Table setup checklist ==
* Agree which chart you’re using and display it.
* Tweak boundaries if misorders are frequent.
* Set steal etiquette: corrective vs punitive.

== Closing guidance ==
* Pick one option and be consistent.
* Start conservative; shift to aggressive only after the group reliably interprets percentiles.
* Use chip takes to correct, not confuse.




==Pre‑flop Cheat Sheet ==
This cheat sheet maps common two‑rank examples to recommended pre‑flop chips for a '''5‑player baseline''', with quick adjustment rules for '''4''' and '''6''' player games. Use this at the table as a compact reference. All picks are '''rank‑only''' (no suits).

===How to read this sheet===
*'''Chip scale (5‑player baseline):''' 5 = top, 1 = bottom.
*'''Adjust for player count:''' For '''4 players''', move each recommended chip '''up one step''' (e.g., 4 → 5). For '''6 players''', move each recommended chip '''down one step''' (e.g., 3 → 2).
*'''Pairs:''' All pocket pairs map to the pair bucket pre‑flop.
*'''Timing cues:''' Quick pick = stronger; taking time or returning a chip = weaker. Use timing as secondary confirmation only.
*'''Use chip takes to correct misorders''' rather than arguing.

{| class="wikitable sortable" style="width:100%; text-align:left;"
!Example hand
!Chart 1 bucket (pairs separate)
!Chart 1 chip (5‑player)
!Chart 2 bucket (pairs + A‑high)
!Chart 2 chip (5‑player)
!Quick note / guidance
|-
|AA, KK, QQ
|Pairs
|5
|Pairs or A high
|5
|All pairs start in the pair bucket; treat uniformly pre‑flop.
|-
|AK (unsuited)
|A/K high
|4
|Pairs or A high
|5
|Strong A‑high; Chart 1 maps to chip 4, Chart 2 places in top bucket.
|-
|AQ
|A/K high
|4
|Pairs or A high
|5
|Strong A‑high; treat like AK for baseline mapping.
|-
|AJ, AT
|A/K high
|3
|Pairs or A high
|5
|Lower A‑highs; Chart 1 places lower than AK/AQ.
|-
|A9–A5
|A/K high
|3
|Pairs or A high
|5
|Weak A‑highs; Chart 1 keeps them in second/third chip range.
|-
|KQ, KJ, KT
|A/K high
|3
|K/Q high
|4
|Strong K‑high hands; Chart 2 groups them with K/Q.
|-
|QJ, QT
|Q/J high
|3
|K/Q high
|4
|Q‑J range; Chart 2 groups with K/Q for a tighter mid bucket.
|-
|JT, T9
|Q/J high
|2
|J/10 high
|3
|Connectors and high singletons; mid/low mid buckets.
|-
|T8, 98, 87
|10/9/8 high
|2
|9/8/7 high
|2
|Lower connectors and middling singletons; default to lower chips.
|-
|76, 65, 54, 43, 32
|7 high or lower
|1
|6 high or lower
|1
|Bottom ranks; speculative only pre‑flop.
|-
|66–22 (any small pair)
|Pairs
|5
|Pairs or A high
|5
|All pairs are placed in the pair bucket pre‑flop; table may promote specific pairs by agreement.
|}

Tips thegang

2026-03-23T05:01:50Z

X: In depth pre‑flop strategy guide

''The following tips aren’t set-in-stone rules, but are meant to give you an idea of how communication works in this game. As a group, figure out for yourselves how you’d like to communicate best without discussing your hand.''

Do not be afraid to '''take chips away''' from other players. This is exactly how you communicate the quality of your own hand and help others to categorize you. The more the chips move, the more communication takes place.

Always evaluate the '''current state''', not how good it might still become.
'''1st Phase''': Having a pair from the start: definitely take the highest number, otherwise evaluate the rank of your High Card.
'''From 2nd Phase''': If something was revealed in this phase that increases your rating, take a higher (or at least equally high) chip than in the previous round. This allows fellow players to draw conclusions about your specific card values.
Conversely: If nothing fitting your hand was revealed, take a chip that is 1 lower. If then no one wants to indicate a hit with a higher chip, you can return to the evaluation of the previous round.

== Introduction ==
This is a concise ''pre‑flop strategy guide'' for ''The Gang'' focused on **rank‑only** pre‑flop chip selection. It defines a simple, repeatable convention for mapping numbered chips to rank percentiles, explains why the convention helps, clarifies how '''Ace‑high''' hands should be placed so both charts work smoothly, and provides two separate, actionable mapping options you can adopt at the table.

== Core conventions to adopt ==
* '''Establish a ranking convention.''' Map each chip number to a clear percentile bucket so everyone interprets chip choices the same way.
* '''Conservative default.''' On the pre‑flop stage, default to slightly conservative picks and only escalate when community cards materially change the actual hand strength.
* '''Controlled chip theft.''' Taking another player’s chip is the only legal private signal—use it to correct obvious misrankings, not to bluff.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.''' Pre‑flop picks are based on ranks only; suitedness and flush/straight potential are ignored for the initial ranking.
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking a chip quickly signals a stronger rank; taking time to pick a chip, or picking then returning a chip, signals a weaker rank.
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.''' Base your pre‑flop chip choice exclusively on the two ranks in your hand.

== Why a percentile convention helps ==
* '''Reduces ambiguity.''' Percentiles let players interpret rankings consistently.
* '''Makes steals informative.''' A chip take becomes a clear corrective statement about percentile.
* '''Improves planning.'''
** ''' Schedule Specialists and Challenges ''' deliberately because you know which percentile buckets are likely to win or lose across rounds.
** ''' Budget risk ''' by tracking how many top‑bucket rank outcomes remain and deciding when to spend a Specialist or accept a Challenge.
** ''' Assign informal roles ''' based on predictable chip distributions.
** ''' Make corrective plays efficient: ''' a chip take can reallocate risk and reduce disputes.

== Pre‑flop decision rules (rank‑only) ==
* '''Pairs are one group.''' Treat any pocket pair as a single pre‑flop signal category for the initial chip pick.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.'''
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.'''
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking quickly = stronger; taking time = weaker.
* '''No talk; use takes to correct.'''
* '''Conservative default for speculative hands.'''

== Two possible rank grouping charts for five players ==
When suits are ignored, every two‑card hand reduces to one of **91 distinct rank outcomes**: 13 pairs + 78 two‑rank combos. The charts below group those 91 outcomes into five buckets each.

{| class="wikitable" style="width:100%;"
|-
| style="width:50%; vertical-align:top; padding:0 8px;" |
{| class="wikitable"
! Group
! Count (of 91)
! Percentage
|-
| A) Pairs
| 13
| 14.29%
|-
| B) A/K high
| 23
| 25.27%
|-
| C) Q/J high
| 19
| 20.88%
|-
| D) 10/9/8 high
| 21
| 23.08%
|-
| E) 7 high or lower
| 15
| 16.48%
|}
|
| style="width:50%; vertical-align:top; padding:0 8px;" |
{| class="wikitable"
! Group
! Count (of 91)
! Percentage
|-
| A) Pairs or A high
| 25
| 27.47%
|-
| B) K/Q high
| 21
| 23.08%
|-
| C) J/10 high
| 17
| 18.68%
|-
| D) 9/8/7 high
| 18
| 19.78%
|-
| E) 6 high or lower
| 10
| 10.99%
|}
|}

== Ace‑high placement mapping ==
{| class="wikitable"
! Aspect
! Chart 1 guidance
! Chart 2 guidance
|-
| Where A‑high sits
| A‑high is part of Group B (A/K high)
| A‑high is part of Group A (Pairs or A high)
|-
| How to treat strong A‑highs
| AK and AQ normally claim the second chip or top of Group B; promote only when no pairs are present
| AK and AQ sit comfortably in the top bucket with pairs
|-
| How to treat weak A‑highs
| A2–A5 sit at the lower end of Group B
| A2–A5 are in the top bucket by Chart 2; adopt Chart 1 if you dislike promoting weak A‑highs
|-
| Practical rule of thumb
| Use Chart 1 to prioritize pairs
| Use Chart 2 to reward A‑high alongside pairs
|}

== Practical mapping and two separate options ==
=== Option 1: Use Chart 1 ===
* Philosophy: keep pairs distinct.
* Bucket guidance (5‑player): Top = pairs; Second = A/K high; Middle = Q/J high; Lower = 10/9/8 and 7‑low.
* When to steal: correct clear misorders.

=== Option 2: Use Chart 2 ===
* Philosophy: pairs + A‑high top bucket.
* Bucket guidance (5‑player): Top = pairs or A‑high; Second = K/Q high; Middle = J/10 high; Lower = 9/8/7 and 6‑low.
* When to steal: correct clear misorders.

== Table setup checklist ==
* Agree which chart you’re using and display it.
* Tweak boundaries if misorders are frequent.
* Set steal etiquette: corrective vs punitive.

== Closing guidance ==
* Pick one option and be consistent.
* Start conservative; shift to aggressive only after the group reliably interprets percentiles.
* Use chip takes to correct, not confuse.

Gamehelpbootydice

2026-01-12T16:33:53Z

== HOW TO PLAY: ==
Prepare to set sail on a dicey adventure as ever there was!
Each pirate starts with 5 Doubloons and 10 Lives. Savvy?
Choose a pirate to go first then takes turns clockwise around
the table. There are 6 Booty Dice. On yer turn, ye may roll up to
3 times. Ye may roll all or some of the dice each time. After ye
stop rolling, ye must resolve all the actions on the Booty Dice.
Resolve the actions in the order shown on the dice roll cards.
Ye may also call each other scallywags and scurvy dogs and
quote yer favorite pirate movies. Shiver me timbers! Who will
survive to tell the tale?

=== HOW TO WIN: ===
The first pirate to amass 25 gold Doubloons in pirate booty or
the last pirate left alive is the winner. If a pirate’s Lives go to 0,
they are out of the game.

=== LIVES: ===
Each pirate starts with 10 Lives. When ye
lose a Life in battle, discard a Life. Discarded Lives
go in a pile. This pile is called “Davey Jones’ Locker.”

=== SHIELDS: ===
Shields start in a supply pile. This pile is
called the “War Chest.”

=== DOUBLOONS: ===
Each pirate starts with 5 Doubloons.
The rest of the Doubloons go on a pile. This pile is
called the “Buried Treasure.”

=== CAPTAIN’S PLUNDER!: ===
If you eliminate a pirate on your turn (using a Cutlass, Mutiny,
or Blackbeard's Curse), you get ALL their Doubloons

== DICE: ==

=== DOUBLOON: ===
Take 2 Doubloons from the Buried
Treasure. If no Doubloons remain in the Buried
Treasure then none are taken.

=== X MARKS THE SPOT: ===
Give 2 of yer Doubloons to
the Buried Treasure.

=== JOLLY ROGER: ===
Steal 2 Doubloons from other
pirates. Ye can take them both from one pirate or
split them up. If no other pirates have Doubloons
then there is nothing to steal on this turn.

=== CUTLASS: ===
Attack a pirate! If the pirate ye attack has
a Shield, they lose 1 Shield for each attack. If the
pirate does not have a Shield (or runs out of Shields
during the attack) they lose 1 Life for each attack.
Shields used to defend against a Cutlass go back to
the War Chest.

=== WALK THE PLANK (Wave): ===
Lose 1 of yer Lives to Davey
Jones’ Locker. Shields DO NOT protect ye from
walking the plank!

=== SHIELD: ===
Take a Shield from the War Chest. Shields
protect from Cutlass attacks only. Shields do not
protect from Walk the Plank or Mutiny. If no Shields
remain in the War Chest then none are taken.

=== MUTINY (3x+ Waves): ===
Blimey! All other pirates lose 1
Life to Davey Jones’ Locker. For each
additional Walk The Plank rolled, pirates
lose an additional Life.

=== SHIPWRECK (3x+ Xs): ===
Avast! All other pirates give 3
Doubloons to the Buried Treasure. For
each additional X Marks the Spot, pirates
give an additional Doubloon.

=== BLACKBEARD’S CURSE (1 of each die): ===
Argghhh! All other pirates lose 2 Lives to Davey
Jones’ Locker and give 5 Doubloons to the
Buried Treasure.

Tips noneshallpass

2025-12-29T21:02:33Z

X: formatting

== General ==
Don't rush. Kill monsters when their breach is at 1 or 2. If 2 and you have the choice, only kill it if it will incapacitate 2 or more guards next turn.

When possible, choose an action with the same Peril as a teammate to split the damage. If the monster's attack is rounded down, that makes the best use of armor.

Plan which card to upgrade and when. The first card increases health. The second card increases armor. The third increases XP gained. It's usually best to increase your XP reward early, but only once.

Armor alone isn't worth upgrading a card for. Upgrading health or armor can be used to survive a round.

== Guard Classes ==

The different Guards that players can select will excel in different scenarios and complement one another. Their different actions and attributes influence how players will contribute, so the following descriptions can help players choose which Guard best fits their play style. These Guards are roughly organized by increasing complexity, though all are strong. New players may wish to begin with Guards earlier in the list, while experienced players may appreciate the added complexity of later ones.

''''' Lancer '''''

The daring Lancer is eager to dive into any fray and never misses an opportunity to train. Deliver high and consistent Damage to monsters and improve your allies’ capabilities. With high armor and strong attack, this is a great character for beginners. His best action to upgrade is Spar, which gives other players XP. Examine your teammates to figure out which of their actions are the best to upgrade. This character is best when used to protect allies with low defense, like the Medic, Blood Mage, and Death Strider.

* 9/10/11/12 health, 0/1/1/2 armor, 2/3/4/5 experience
* 1: Spear (Deal 2/3/5/7 damage. 3 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 2: Charge (Deal 4/6/8/10 damage. 4 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 3: Treat Wounds (Heal 5/6/7/8 wounds. 0 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 4: Spar (You/You/You/Any player gain 1/1/1/2 experience. Another player gains 1/1/2/2 experience. 2 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 5: Practice (Gain 1/2/2/3 experience. 3 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.)
* 6: Jab (Deal 1/1/2/4 damage. 1 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.) 

''''' Medic '''''

The collected Medic lifts any who fall injured in the chaos of battle. Tend to the Wounds of your allies, but don’t underestimate your ability to permanently weaken monsters. This is the white mage--low attack and defense but able to debuff monsters and heal teammates. It's a good all-around character to play, whether upgraded or not.

* 6/7/9/10 health, 0/0/1/1 armor, 2/3/4/5 experience
* 1: Acid Vial (Deal 1/3/4/6 damage. 2 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 2: Spray Poison (Deal 1/2/2/3 damage. Reduce its attack by 1/1/1/2. 2 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 3: Treat Wounds (Heal 4/5/6/7 wounds. 0 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 4: Distribute Bandages (All players heal 1/2/2/3 wounds. 1 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 5: Practice (Gain 1/2/2/3 experience. 3 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.)
* 6: Triage (A player heals 1/1/2/4 wounds. 1 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.) 

''''' Sensei '''''

The wizened Sensei finds strength through enlightenment. Gain Experience as you unravel monsters’ strategies, then pass it on to your allies and weave illusions to trick monsters. He gives other players XP with Feint and Instruct. Both these actions should be upgraded first to get the most value.

* 6/7/9/10 health, 1/1/2/2 armor, 2/3/4/5 experience
* 1: Fists (Deal 2/3/4/6 damage. 3 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 2: Feint (Deal 1/2/2/3 damage and gain 1/1/2/2 experience. 2 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 3: Treat Wounds (Heal 4/5/6/6 wounds. 0 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 4: Create Illusion (Divide its attack as if there are 2 players/+1 player/+1 player/+2 players at each attacked peril this round. 1 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 5: Practice (Gain 1/2/2/3 experience. 3 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.)
* 6: Instruct (1/1/2/All other players gains 1 experience. 1 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.) 
''''' Blood Mage '''''

The unnatural Blood Mage manipulates the essence of life within all creatures. Use your massive Health to absorb Wounds from your allies, then heal yourself by draining the monsters.

* 9/12/15/18 health, 0/0/0/0 armor, 2/3/4/5 experience
* 1: Knife (Deal 1/3/5/7 damage. 2 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 2: Drain Life (Deal 1/2/3/4 damage. Heal 1/2/3/4 wounds. 3 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 3: Treat Wounds (Heal 7/9/12/14 wounds. 0 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 4: Sacrifice (Take up to 3/6/9/12 wounds from the other players. Gain 0/1/1/1 experience per 4 wounds taken. 1 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 5: Practice (Gain 1/2/2/3 experience. 3 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.)
* 6: Transfuse (Take up to 2/2/3/5 wounds from another player. Heal 0/0/0/2 wounds. 1 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.) 

''''' Hunter '''''

The wild Hunter outmaneuvers and subdues any beast. Enrage monsters to slow their advance and weaken them with snares and venom. This character's most powerful ability is Provoke, which lowers the monster's breach but increases their attack strength (although other actions can reduce it). Upgrading Provoke fully can remove that attack increase.

* 7/9/10/12 health, 0/0/1/1 armor, 2/3/4/5 experience
* 1: Bow (Deal 2/3/5/6 damage. 2 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 2: Envenom (Deal 1/2/3/4 damage and reduce its attack by 1/2/3/4 this round. 3 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 3: Treat Wounds (Heal 4/6/7/8 wounds. 0 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 4: Provoke (Increase breach by 1 and its attack by 2/1/1/1. 4 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 5: Practice (Gain 1/2/2/3 experience. 3 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.)
* 6: Ensnare (Reduce its attack by 1/2/2/4 this round. 1 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.) 

''''' Death Strider '''''

The tormented Death Strider walks the line between life and death, channeling pain into great power. Grow stronger offensively and defensively as you accumulate Wounds, but beware pushing yourself too far. Like a Dark Knight, this character gains strength the more damage it takes. But too much damage means it will be incapacitated and lose a turn. Its most powerful action is Share Wounds. At max level, it does 3 damage to yourself and 6 to the monster. Alternatively, upgrade Scythe which is a nice basic attack. Embrace Pain is mediocre against some monsters, but extremely effective against others.

* 8/10/12/14 health, 0/1/1/2 armor, 2/3/4/5 experience
* 1: Scythe (Deal 2/3/5/7 damage. 2 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 2: Reciprocate (Deal damage equal to your number of wounds, to a maximum of 3/5/8/10. 3 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 3: Treat Wounds (Heal up to 5/6/7/8 wounds. 0 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 4: Embrace Pain (This round your armor is equal to your number of wounds, to a maximum of 3/5/8/10. 4 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 5: Practice (Gain 1/2/2/3 experience. 3 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.)
* 6: Share Wounds (Gain up to 2/2/3/3 wounds and deal 1/1/1/2 times the number of wounds taken. 1 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.)

'''''Commander '''''

The stalwart Commander leads the Guards with rallying battle cries and durable armor. Carefully consider the positions of your allies for the greatest effect, then order them to act during your turn. The "...Now!" action lets you invoke the six-action of another Guard at the same Peril level (or more, if upgraded). This is most effective when other players upgrade '''their''' six-action. Consider where your teammates are in the Peril track, then choose which action to invoke appropriately.

* 7/8/9/10 health, 1/2/2/3 armor, 2/3/4/5 experience
* 1: Sword (Deal 1/3/4/6 damage. 3 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 2: "For Glory!" (After all other actions, choose your peril. Deal 1/2/3/4 damage per other player with that peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 3: Treat Wounds (Heal 4/5/6/7 wounds. 0 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 4: "Form Ranks!" (After all other actions, choose your peril. All other players with that peril gain 1/1/2/2 armor this round. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 5: Practice (Gain 1/2/2/3 experience. 3 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.)
* 6: "... Now!" (After all other actions, choose another player with a difference of at most 0/0/1/4 peril. They take a 6 action. 1 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.) 

''''' Stargazer '''''

The mysterious Stargazer draws upon the light of the cosmos to harm and illuminate. Switch between burning Solar (Yellow Sun) Light and soothing Lunar (Purple Moon) Light to overcome any challenge.

The Stargazer’s actions change depending on their current Light source. Track your current Light source (beginning with Solar) using the Light token. The sun grants higher attack damage. The moon grants more support. Staying in the sun most of the time is best, except at the start of a fight when you can reduce the enemy's attack by 2 with the lunar Flare. It's the most difficult character to play. The Illuminate action is the most powerful. The solar side lets you give XP to others. The lunar side lets you heal other players. It should be the first to be upgraded and used frequently.

* 7/8/10/11 health, 0/0/1/1 armor, 2/3/4/5 experience
* 1: Scepter (Deal 2/3/4/6 damage. 2 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 2: Flare (Deal 4/6/7/9 damage and gain 1/1/2/2 wounds if solar. Reduce monster's attack by 1/1/2/2 if lunar. 3 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 3: Treat Wounds (Heal 4/5/6/7 wounds. 0 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 4: Illuminate (One player gain 1/2/2/3 experience and 1/2/2/3 wounds if solar. Heal 3/5/7/9 wounds from a player if lunar. 2 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 5: Practice (Gain 1/2/2/3 experience. 3 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.)
* 6: Eclipse (Deal 1/1/2/3 damage if solar. A player gain 1/1/2/3 armor this round if lunar. Change light source. 1 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.) 
''''' Automaton '''''

The mechanical Automaton follows its directive to protect its allies at any cost. This Guard is a greatly simplified character with only three actions, and it loses advantages from the bonus six-action or triple dice, making it only useful for younger players, those still learning the game, those who want an easier time making decisions, or those seeking an extreme challenge.

* 7/8/10/11 health, 0/1/2/3 armor, 2/3/4/5 experience
* 1-2: Crossbow (Deal 2/4/5/7 damage. 2 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 3-4: Repair (Heal 5/6/7/8 wounds. 0 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 5-6: Upgrade (Gain 1/2/2/3 experience. 3 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.)

Gamehelpnoneshallpass

2025-12-29T18:57:51Z

X: Moved /* Guard Classes */ section to Tips page

Tips noneshallpass

2025-12-29T18:56:50Z

X: Moved character information over from 'how to play' page

== General ==
Don't rush. Kill monsters when their breach is at 1 or 2. If 2 and you have the choice, only kill it if it will incapacitate 2 or more guards next turn.

When possible, choose an action with the same Peril as a teammate to split the damage. If the monster's attack is rounded down, that makes the best use of armor.

Plan which card to upgrade and when. The first card increases health. The second card increases armor. The third increases XP gained. It's usually best to increase your XP reward early, but only once.

Armor alone isn't worth upgrading a card for. Upgrading health or armor can be used to survive a round.

== Guard Classes ==

The different Guards that players can select will excel in different scenarios and complement one another. Their different actions and attributes influence how players will contribute, so the following descriptions can help players choose which Guard best fits their play style. These Guards are roughly organized by increasing complexity, though all are strong. New players may wish to begin with Guards earlier in the list, while experienced players may appreciate the added complexity of later ones.

''''' Lancer '''''

The daring Lancer is eager to dive into any fray and never misses an opportunity to train. Deliver high and consistent Damage to monsters and improve your allies’ capabilities. With high armor and strong attack, this is a great character for beginners. His best action to upgrade is Spar, which gives other players XP. Examine your teammates to figure out which of their actions are the best to upgrade. This character is best when used to protect allies with low defense, like the Medic, Blood Mage, and Death Strider.

* 9/10/11/12 health, 0/1/1/2 armor, 2/3/4/5 experience
* 1: Spear (Deal 2/3/5/7 damage. 3 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 2: Charge (Deal 4/6/8/10 damage. 4 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 3: Treat Wounds (Heal 5/6/7/8 wounds. 0 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 4: Spar (You/You/You/Any player gain 1/1/1/2 experience. Another player gains 1/1/2/2 experience. 2 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 5: Practice (Gain 1/2/2/3 experience. 3 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.)
* 6: Jab (Deal 1/1/2/4 damage. 1 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.)

''''' Medic '''''

The collected Medic lifts any who fall injured in the chaos of battle. Tend to the Wounds of your allies, but don’t underestimate your ability to permanently weaken monsters. This is the white mage--low attack and defense but able to debuff monsters and heal teammates. It's a good all-around character to play, whether upgraded or not.

* 6/7/9/10 health, 0/0/1/1 armor, 2/3/4/5 experience
* 1: Acid Vial (Deal 1/3/4/6 damage. 2 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 2: Spray Poison (Deal 1/2/2/3 damage. Reduce its attack by 1/1/1/2. 2 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 3: Treat Wounds (Heal 4/5/6/7 wounds. 0 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 4: Distribute Bandages (All players heal 1/2/2/3 wounds. 1 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 5: Practice (Gain 1/2/2/3 experience. 3 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.)
* 6: Triage (A player heals 1/1/2/4 wounds. 1 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.)

''''' Sensei '''''

The wizened Sensei finds strength through enlightenment. Gain Experience as you unravel monsters’ strategies, then pass it on to your allies and weave illusions to trick monsters. He gives other players XP with Feint and Instruct. Both these actions should be upgraded first to get the most value.

* 6/7/9/10 health, 1/1/2/2 armor, 2/3/4/5 experience
* 1: Fists (Deal 2/3/4/6 damage. 3 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 2: Feint (Deal 1/2/2/3 damage and gain 1/1/2/2 experience. 2 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 3: Treat Wounds (Heal 4/5/6/6 wounds. 0 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 4: Create Illusion (Divide its attack as if there are 2 players/+1 player/+1 player/+2 players at each attacked peril this round. 1 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 5: Practice (Gain 1/2/2/3 experience. 3 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.)
* 6: Instruct (1/1/2/All other players gains 1 experience. 1 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.)

''''' Blood Mage '''''

The unnatural Blood Mage manipulates the essence of life within all creatures. Use your massive Health to absorb Wounds from your allies, then heal yourself by draining the monsters.

* 9/12/15/18 health, 0/0/0/0 armor, 2/3/4/5 experience
* 1: Knife (Deal 1/3/5/7 damage. 2 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 2: Drain Life (Deal 1/2/3/4 damage. Heal 1/2/3/4 wounds. 3 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 3: Treat Wounds (Heal 7/9/12/14 wounds. 0 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 4: Sacrifice (Take up to 3/6/9/12 wounds from the other players. Gain 0/1/1/1 experience per 4 wounds taken. 1 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 5: Practice (Gain 1/2/2/3 experience. 3 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.)
* 6: Transfuse (Take up to 2/2/3/5 wounds from another player. Heal 0/0/0/2 wounds. 1 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.)

''''' Hunter '''''

The wild Hunter outmaneuvers and subdues any beast. Enrage monsters to slow their advance and weaken them with snares and venom. This character's most powerful ability is Provoke, which lowers the monster's breach but increases their attack strength (although other actions can reduce it). Upgrading Provoke fully can remove that attack increase.

* 7/9/10/12 health, 0/0/1/1 armor, 2/3/4/5 experience
* 1: Bow (Deal 2/3/5/6 damage. 2 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 2: Envenom (Deal 1/2/3/4 damage and reduce its attack by 1/2/3/4 this round. 3 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 3: Treat Wounds (Heal 4/6/7/8 wounds. 0 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 4: Provoke (Increase breach by 1 and its attack by 2/1/1/1. 4 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 5: Practice (Gain 1/2/2/3 experience. 3 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.)
* 6: Ensnare (Reduce its attack by 1/2/2/4 this round. 1 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.)

''''' Death Strider '''''

The tormented Death Strider walks the line between life and death, channeling pain into great power. Grow stronger offensively and defensively as you accumulate Wounds, but beware pushing yourself too far. Like a Dark Knight, this character gains strength the more damage it takes. But too much damage means it will be incapacitated and lose a turn. Its most powerful action is Share Wounds. At max level, it does 3 damage to yourself and 6 to the monster. Alternatively, upgrade Scythe which is a nice basic attack. Embrace Pain is mediocre against some monsters, but extremely effective against others.

* 8/10/12/14 health, 0/1/1/2 armor, 2/3/4/5 experience
* 1: Scythe (Deal 2/3/5/7 damage. 2 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 2: Reciprocate (Deal damage equal to your number of wounds, to a maximum of 3/5/8/10. 3 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 3: Treat Wounds (Heal up to 5/6/7/8 wounds. 0 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 4: Embrace Pain (This round your armor is equal to your number of wounds, to a maximum of 3/5/8/10. 4 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 5: Practice (Gain 1/2/2/3 experience. 3 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.)
* 6: Share Wounds (Gain up to 2/2/3/3 wounds and deal 1/1/1/2 times the number of wounds taken. 1 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.)

'''''Commander '''''

The stalwart Commander leads the Guards with rallying battle cries and durable armor. Carefully consider the positions of your allies for the greatest effect, then order them to act during your turn. The "...Now!" action lets you invoke the six-action of another Guard at the same Peril level (or more, if upgraded). This is most effective when other players upgrade '''their''' six-action. Consider where your teammates are in the Peril track, then choose which action to invoke appropriately.

* 7/8/9/10 health, 1/2/2/3 armor, 2/3/4/5 experience
* 1: Sword (Deal 1/3/4/6 damage. 3 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 2: "For Glory!" (After all other actions, choose your peril. Deal 1/2/3/4 damage per other player with that peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 3: Treat Wounds (Heal 4/5/6/7 wounds. 0 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 4: "Form Ranks!" (After all other actions, choose your peril. All other players with that peril gain 1/1/2/2 armor this round. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 5: Practice (Gain 1/2/2/3 experience. 3 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.)
* 6: "... Now!" (After all other actions, choose another player with a difference of at most 0/0/1/4 peril. They take a 6 action. 1 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.)

''''' Stargazer '''''

The mysterious Stargazer draws upon the light of the cosmos to harm and illuminate. Switch between burning Solar (Yellow Sun) Light and soothing Lunar (Purple Moon) Light to overcome any challenge.

The Stargazer’s actions change depending on their current Light source. Track your current Light source (beginning with Solar) using the Light token. The sun grants higher attack damage. The moon grants more support. Staying in the sun most of the time is best, except at the start of a fight when you can reduce the enemy's attack by 2 with the lunar Flare. It's the most difficult character to play. The Illuminate action is the most powerful. The solar side lets you give XP to others. The lunar side lets you heal other players. It should be the first to be upgraded and used frequently.

* 7/8/10/11 health, 0/0/1/1 armor, 2/3/4/5 experience
* 1: Scepter (Deal 2/3/4/6 damage. 2 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 2: Flare (Deal 4/6/7/9 damage and gain 1/1/2/2 wounds if solar. Reduce monster's attack by 1/1/2/2 if lunar. 3 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 3: Treat Wounds (Heal 4/5/6/7 wounds. 0 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 4: Illuminate (One player gain 1/2/2/3 experience and 1/2/2/3 wounds if solar. Heal 3/5/7/9 wounds from a player if lunar. 2 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 5: Practice (Gain 1/2/2/3 experience. 3 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.)
* 6: Eclipse (Deal 1/1/2/3 damage if solar. A player gain 1/1/2/3 armor this round if lunar. Change light source. 1 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.)

''''' Automaton '''''

The mechanical Automaton follows its directive to protect its allies at any cost. This Guard is a greatly simplified character with only three actions, and it loses advantages from the bonus six-action or triple dice, making it only useful for younger players, those still learning the game, those who want an easier time making decisions, or those seeking an extreme challenge.

* 7/8/10/11 health, 0/1/2/3 armor, 2/3/4/5 experience
* 1-2: Crossbow (Deal 2/4/5/7 damage. 2 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 3-4: Repair (Heal 5/6/7/8 wounds. 0 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 5-6: Upgrade (Gain 1/2/2/3 experience. 3 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.)

Gamehelpnoneshallpass

2025-12-09T15:20:58Z

X: Undo revision 26854 by [|Eric Juneau]]) Last change erased sixteen thousand words of useful information!!!

== Overview ==

Each player chooses a '''Guard'''. One monster from each level is selected at random, and the first monster is revealed. Every round, all players roll their dice, then each player in turn selects one of their dice and follows the corresponding action on their '''Guard cards'''. Next, if the monster’s '''Health''' has reached zero, it is defeated and replaced with the next monster. Otherwise, the monster attacks the players whose actions had the highest '''Peril'''. The players have a limited number of rounds before the monster '''Breaches''' their defenses, and they win by defeating the final monster before then.

== Guards ==

A player’s '''Guard''' is like their specialty within the team, and every combination of Guards can be successful. Learn about each Guard in the '''Guard Classes''' section.

''''' Guard Cards '''''

'''Guard cards''' determine a player’s possible actions and attributes. Each card shows a Guard’s title, a level, a '''Level Up Cost (Green Arrow)''', and an attribute: '''Health (Red Heart), Armor (Blue Shield)''', or '''Experience Reward (Green Diamond)'''.

Additionally, each card shows two actions, each consisting of a name, instructions to follow when taking the action, a die roll needed to select that action, and a '''Peril (Yellow Triangle)''' number that indicates how dangerous the action is.

== Monsters ==

''''' Monster Cards '''''

Monster cards are organized by level, with higher levels representing stronger monsters. Each monster card shows the monster’s name, level, '''Health (Red Heart)''' and '''Attack (Yellow Sword)''' showing how much the monster hurts the players, and a unique ability.

''''' Monster Abilities '''''

Every monster has a unique ability, and some might even override the regular rules. Take a close look when a new monster arrives!

''''' List of Monsters '''''

* Apothecary (level 2, 22 health, 9 attack): Noxious Fumes (Any 6 must be rerolled until it is no longer a 6.)
* Awakened Tree (level 1, 23 health, 7 attack): Slow Roots (Its breach starts 1 higher than normal.)
* Cursed Mirror (level 3, 28 health, 0 attack): Reflective (When it takes damage, its attack increases by the damage taken. After it attacks, its attack is halved.)
* Death Knight (level 5, 36 health, 14 attack): Unholy Armor (When it takes damage, the damage is reduced to 4 if it were greater than 4.)
* Ferrovore (level 5, 50 health, 12 attack): Consume Metal (When it attacks, temporarily adds the sum of all player's armor to its attack.)
* Fisherman (level 2, 24 health, 8 attack): Piercing Harpoon (It makes an additional attack against players with 1 less peril than the highest.)
* Goblin Assassin (level 4, 33 health, 11 attack): Backstab (It attacks players with the least peril, excluding 0 peril.)
* Golem (level 3, 21 health, 9 attack): Stone Body (It has 1 armor.)
* Gorgon (level 3, 25 health, 8 attack): Endless Snakes (After it attacks, its attack increases by 2.)
* Hungry Ooze (level 1, 17 health, 2 attack): Growing Form (When it takes damage, its attack increases by 1.)
* Hydra (level 4, 31 health, 9 attack): Excess Heads (Its attack is not divided by the number of players with the highest peril.)
* Ice Sorceress (level 4, 32 health, 11 attack): Frozen Wounds (Any action that removes wounds only removes half as many, rounded up.)
* Intellect Devourer (level 5, 50 health, 10 attack): Mind Sap (When it is revealed, its attack increases by half of all player's current experience, rounded down.)
* Kraken (level 5, 60 health, - attack): Infinite tentacles (Its attack causes each player to take damage equal to twice their peril.)
* Lich (level 4, 27 health, 10 attack): Lifesteal (Its health increases by the number of wounds players gain from its attack.)
* Mimic (level 1, 18 health, 7 attack): Surprise Attack (When it is revealed, each player takes 2 wounds.)
* Myconid Burster (level 2, 23 health, 7 attack): Explosive Spores (Once per round when it takes damage, the damaging player gains 2 wounds.)
* Skeleton (level 1, 24 health, 8 attack): Brittle Bones (Before its turn begins, it takes 1 damage for each player with at least 3 peril.)
* Storm Sprite (level 3, 26 health, 9 attack): Lightning (Its attacks ignore armor.)
* Tiny Phoenix (level 2, 9 health, 9 attack): Rebirth (After it attacks, its health returns to its starting health.)

== Rules of Play ==

Play is divided into rounds, in which all players take one turn, then the monster takes its turn.

''''' Player's Turn Summary '''''

* -Each player rolls their dice (unless '''Incapacitated''')
* -Each player selects a die and follows its action’s instructions
* -If you rolled a '''6''', may also select it as an action before or after your main action
* -Rolling triples allows ANY two actions

''''' Beginning of the Round '''''

At the beginning of each round, all players roll their three dice. Starting with the player who has the first turn token and moving clockwise, each player takes their turn. You can hover over (or tap, for mobile users) another player's dice to see their possible actions.

''''' Player's Turn: Rolling '''''

On each player’s turn, the player selects one of their rolled dice, follows the instructions of the action with that die on their Guard cards, and places the selected die on the '''Peril Track''' according to the action’s '''Peril (Yellow Triangle).'''

The player may select one 6 result in addition to their selected die. If so, they follow the instructions of both dice in either order, but their '''Peril (Yellow Traingle)''' remains that of their normally-selected action.

If a player’s three dice all roll the same number, the player follows the instructions of any two actions (or the same action twice) instead. Their '''Peril (Yellow Triangle)''' is whichever they choose from those two actions.

Level-4 Guard cards allow rerolling dice. Once per round, each player with at least one level-4 Guard card may spend one '''Experience (Green Diamond)''' to reroll one of their dice.

''''' Player's Turn: Actions '''''

Many player actions and monster abilities refer to someone taking '''Damage (Yellow X)'''. When a monster takes Damage, its '''Health (Red Heart)''' decreases by that amount, moving the monster tracker’s tokens accordingly. When a player takes Damage, they gain '''Wounds (Red Heart with X)''' equal to that Damage minus their '''Armor (Blue Shield)''' (shown on the '''3-4 Guard cards'''); Armor reduces the amount of Damage a player takes and may even reduce it to zero.

A player’s '''Health (Red Heart)''' (shown on the '''1-2 Guard cards''') indicates how many '''Wounds (Red Heart with X)''' they can have while still fighting. At the beginning of a round, if a player has Wounds greater than or equal to their '''Health''', they are '''Incapacitated''' for that round. Incapacitated players do not roll their dice. Instead, they must follow their '''3''' action’s instructions on their turn and cannot place a die on the '''Peril (Yellow Triangle)''' board (they have no Peril). Incapacitation lasts an entire round, even if you lose enough '''Wounds''' before your turn. Similarly, gaining '''Wounds''' during the round can’t Incapacitate you until the next round.

Some actions and events give players '''Experience (Green Diamond)''' which can be spent to level up, or improve, player attributes and actions. At any time, a player may spend Experience equal to the '''Level Up Cost (Green Triangle)''' on one of their Guard cards. That card is flipped or swapped with the card beneath it to reveal the card with the same dice and one level higher.

''''' Monster's Turn '''''

Once all players have taken their turns, the monster takes its turn.

''''' Monster's Turn Summary '''''

* -If Monster's '''Health (Red Heart)''' is 0, players get '''Experience (Green Diamond)''' and next monster is revealed.
* -If not, player with a dice on the highest level of the '''Peril Track (Yellow Triangle)''' receives the '''Monsters Attack (Yellow Sword)'''; multiple players with highest '''Peril (Yellow Triangle)''' divide the Damage evenly.
* -It's '''Breach Level (Purple Arrow)''' goes down by 1.
* -If '''Breach Level''' gets below 1, the monster has gotten through, you receive no '''Experience''' and the next monster is revealed. If the 5th Monster has '''Breached''', you lose the game.

''''' Monster's Turn Full '''''

First, the players may have reduced the monster’s '''Health (Red Heart)''' to 0. If so, the monster has been defeated. The monster’s card is removed from play, and each player receives '''Experience (Green Diamond)''' equal to their
'''Experience Reward''' attribute (shown on the '''5-6 Guard cards'''). The next monster is then revealed, and the monster tracker is updated to reflect the new monster’s '''Health and Attack (Yellow Sword)'''; the new monster’s '''Breach (Purple Arrow)''' begins at 4 (or 5 for the final monster). Finally, the first turn token is moved one player clockwise.

If the monster hasn’t been defeated, then the monster attacks. The players typically take Damage, as determined by the monster’s '''Attack (Yellow Sword)''', each player’s '''Armor (Blue Shield)''', and each player’s '''Peril (Yellow Triangle)''':

* -If one player has a higher '''Peril''' than any other player, that player takes Damage equal to the monster’s current '''Attack'''. Remember to apply the player’s Armor before gaining '''Wounds (Red Heart with X)'''.
* -If multiple players share the highest '''Peril''', the monster’s current Attack is divided by that number of players (rounded down). Each of those players takes '''Wounds (Red Heart with X)''' equal to that result.

After attacking, the monster will try to get past the players, decreasing its '''Breach (Purple Arrow)''' by 1. If its '''Breach''' reaches 0, the monster is replaced just as though it were defeated, except the players receive no '''Experience Reward (Green Diamond)'''; the next monster is revealed, the tracker is updated, and the first turn token is moved.

== End of Game ==

The players win by reducing the '''final''' monster’s '''Health (Red Heart)''' to 0. The players lose if the '''final''' monster's Breach (Purple Arrow) reaches 0.

''''' The Last Stand '''''

The '''final''' monster’s '''Breach (Purple Arrow)''' begins at 5, not 4. Make that extra turn count!

== Two or Three Player Variant ==

-In a two-player game, each player will get a second Guard to control. The game automatically shows the cards and dice for the current Guard's turn, but you can use the "Toggle Guards" button at the bottom-left to see the other Guard's cards and dice at any time.

-In a three-player game, there will be one Automaton, and the current party leader will decide its actions in a similar manner to the two-player game.

== Guard Classes ==

The different Guards that players can select will excel in different scenarios and complement one another. Their different actions and attributes influence how players will contribute, so the following descriptions can help players choose which Guard best fits their play style. These Guards are roughly organized by increasing complexity, though all are strong. New players may wish to begin with Guards earlier in the list, while experienced players may appreciate the added complexity of later ones.

''''' Lancer '''''

The daring Lancer is eager to dive into any fray and never misses an opportunity to train. Deliver high and consistent Damage to monsters and improve your allies’ capabilities.

* 9/10/11/12 health, 0/1/1/2 armor, 2/3/4/5 experience
* 1: Spear (Deal 2/3/5/7 damage. 3 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 2: Charge (Deal 4/6/8/10 damage. 4 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 3: Treat Wounds (Heal 5/6/7/8 wounds. 0 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 4: Spar (You/You/You/Any player gain 1/1/1/2 experience. Another player gains 1/1/2/2 experience. 2 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 5: Practice (Gain 1/2/2/3 experience. 3 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.)
* 6: Jab (Deal 1/1/2/4 damage. 1 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.)

''''' Medic '''''

The collected Medic lifts any who fall injured in the chaos of battle. Tend to the Wounds of your allies, but don’t underestimate your ability to permanently weaken monsters.

* 6/7/9/10 health, 0/0/1/1 armor, 2/3/4/5 experience
* 1: Acid Vial (Deal 1/3/4/6 damage. 2 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 2: Spray Poison (Deal 1/2/2/3 damage. Reduce its attack by 1/1/1/2. 2 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 3: Treat Wounds (Heal 4/5/6/7 wounds. 0 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 4: Distribute Bandages (All players heal 1/2/2/3 wounds. 1 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 5: Practice (Gain 1/2/2/3 experience. 3 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.)
* 6: Triage (A player heals 1/1/2/4 wounds. 1 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.)

''''' Sensei '''''

The wizened Sensei finds strength through enlightenment. Gain Experience as you unravel monsters’ strategies, then pass it on to your allies and weave illusions to trick monsters.

* 6/7/9/10 health, 1/1/2/2 armor, 2/3/4/5 experience
* 1: Fists (Deal 2/3/4/6 damage. 3 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 2: Feint (Deal 1/2/2/3 damage and gain 1/1/2/2 experience. 2 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 3: Treat Wounds (Heal 4/5/6/6 wounds. 0 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 4: Create Illusion (Divide its attack as if there are 2 players/+1 player/+1 player/+2 players at each attacked peril this round. 1 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 5: Practice (Gain 1/2/2/3 experience. 3 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.)
* 6: Instruct (1/1/2/All other players gains 1 experience. 1 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.)

''''' Blood Mage '''''

The unnatural Blood Mage manipulates the essence of life within all creatures. Use your massive Health to absorb Wounds from your allies, then heal yourself by draining the monsters.

* 9/12/15/18 health, 0/0/0/0 armor, 2/3/4/5 experience
* 1: Knife (Deal 1/3/5/7 damage. 2 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 2: Drain Life (Deal 1/2/3/4 damage. Heal 1/2/3/4 wounds. 3 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 3: Treat Wounds (Heal 7/9/12/14 wounds. 0 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 4: Sacrifice (Take up to 3/6/9/12 wounds from the other players. Gain 0/1/1/1 experience per 4 wounds taken. 1 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 5: Practice (Gain 1/2/2/3 experience. 3 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.)
* 6: Transfuse (Take up to 2/2/3/5 wounds from another player. Heal 0/0/0/2 wounds. 1 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.)

''''' Hunter '''''

The wild Hunter outmaneuvers and subdues any beast. Enrage monsters to slow their advance and weaken them with snares and venom.

* 7/9/10/12 health, 0/0/1/1 armor, 2/3/4/5 experience
* 1: Bow (Deal 2/3/5/6 damage. 2 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 2: Envenom (Deal 1/2/3/4 damage and reduce its attack by 1/2/3/4 this round. 3 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 3: Treat Wounds (Heal 4/6/7/8 wounds. 0 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 4: Provoke (Increase breach by 1 and its attack by 2/1/1/1. 4 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 5: Practice (Gain 1/2/2/3 experience. 3 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.)
* 6: Ensnare (Reduce its attack by 1/2/2/4 this round. 1 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.)

''''' Death Strider '''''

The tormented Death Strider walks the line between life and death, channeling pain into great power. Grow stronger offensively and defensively as you accumulate Wounds, but beware pushing yourself too far.

* 8/10/12/14 health, 0/1/1/2 armor, 2/3/4/5 experience
* 1: Scythe (Deal 2/3/5/7 damage. 2 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 2: Reciprocate (Deal damage equal to your number of wounds, to a maximum of 3/5/8/10. 3 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 3: Treat Wounds (Heal up to 5/6/7/8 wounds. 0 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 4: Embrace Pain (This round your armor is equal to your number of wounds, to a maximum of 3/5/8/10. 4 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 5: Practice (Gain 1/2/2/3 experience. 3 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.)
* 6: Share Wounds (Gain up to 2/2/3/3 wounds and deal 1/1/1/2 times the number of wounds taken. 1 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.)

''''' Commander '''''

The stalwart Commander leads the Guards with rallying battle cries and durable armor. Carefully consider the positions of your allies for the greatest effect, then order them to act during your turn.

* 7/8/9/10 health, 1/2/2/3 armor, 2/3/4/5 experience
* 1: Sword (Deal 1/3/4/6 damage. 3 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 2: "For Glory!" (After all other actions, choose your peril. Deal 1/2/3/4 damage per other player with that peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 3: Treat Wounds (Heal 4/5/6/7 wounds. 0 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 4: "Form Ranks!" (After all other actions, choose your peril. All other players with that peril gain 1/1/2/2 armor this round. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 5: Practice (Gain 1/2/2/3 experience. 3 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.)
* 6: "... Now!" (After all other actions, choose another player with a difference of at most 0/0/1/4 peril. They take a 6 action. 1 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.)

''''' Stargazer '''''

The mysterious Stargazer draws upon the light of the cosmos to harm and illuminate. Switch between burning Solar (Yellow Sun) Light and soothing Lunar (Purple Moon) Light to overcome any challenge.

The Stargazer’s actions change depending on their current Light source. Track your current Light source (beginning with Solar) using the Light token.

* 7/8/10/11 health, 0/0/1/1 armor, 2/3/4/5 experience
* 1: Scepter (Deal 2/3/4/6 damage. 2 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 2: Flare (Deal 4/6/7/9 damage and gain 1/1/2/2 wounds if solar. Reduce monster's attack by 1/1/2/2 if lunar. 3 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 3: Treat Wounds (Heal 4/5/6/7 wounds. 0 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 4: Illuminate (One player gain 1/2/2/3 experience and 1/2/2/3 wounds if solar. Heal 3/5/7/9 wounds from a player if lunar. 2 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 5: Practice (Gain 1/2/2/3 experience. 3 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.)
* 6: Eclipse (Deal 1/1/2/3 damage if solar. A player gain 1/1/2/3 armor this round if lunar. Change light source. 1 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.)

''''' Automaton '''''

The mechanical Automaton follows its directive to protect its allies at any cost. This Guard is greatly simplified compared to others, making it ideal for younger players or those who want an easier time making decisions. It also serves well in games with fewer than four players. However, the Automaton ignores the rules about selecting an extra 6 and rolling the same numbers.

* 7/8/10/11 health, 0/1/2/3 armor, 2/3/4/5 experience
* 1-2: Crossbow (Deal 2/4/5/7 damage. 2 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 3-4: Repair (Heal 5/6/7/8 wounds. 0 peril. 2/4/7 to upgrade.)
* 5-6: Upgrade (Gain 1/2/2/3 experience. 3 peril. 3/5/7 to upgrade.)

Gamehelpparklife

2024-08-22T15:37:38Z

X: Created page

== How to Play ==

=== 1. Sale (a ‘trick’) ===
Starting with the first player and proceeding clockwise, each player plays a card from their hand.

=== 2. On Suit: ===
The first card played and other cards matching its weather are called ''on suit''. '''You don’t need to play on suit if you don’t want to!'''

=== 3. Determine the Winner ===
The lowest valued card ''on suit'' wins the sale. '''Ties''' are won by the last player to play the lowest value ''on suit'' card.

=== 4. The winner scores their card: ===
When you win a sale, you keep the card you played as points equal to its value. Place it in front of yourself.

=== 5. Losers Discard Cards Played ===
Each player who lost the sale discards the card they played.

=== 6. Winner Discards From Hand ===
When you win a sale, discard cards from your hand equal to the number of Discard Icons on the card you won, face down.

=== 7. Pay what you have: ===
If you don’t have enough cards to discard when you win a sale, it’s okay. Simply discard the cards you have left in your hand.

=== 8. Next Sale: ===
The winner of the sale goes first next sale (taking the train marker).
*If the sale’s winner now has no cards in hand, the next player clockwise with cards in hand goes first.
*Players with cards continue to play until everyone has no cards in hand.
*If everyone has no cards in their hands, proceed to scoring.

==== Alone? ====
If you’re the only player that in your hand, you play sales without competition.
You must still discard cards after each sale as normal — you don’t simply win every card leftover in your hand.

=== Next Round: ===
*Shuffle the deck and discarded cards together. '''DO NOT SHUFFLE POINT CARDS PLAYERS WON!'''
*Deal each player new cards based on the chart on page 3.
*The winner of the last sale of the last round goes first.

=== Scoring and Winning ===

==== Sort: ====
After 3 rounds, players sort their numbered cards into piles of suits, with wild cards in their own pile, and then put set collecting cards aside their suit piles.
==== Numbers: ====
First sum all the points for all the numbered cards.
==== 1x Set Cards:====
Then, add the points for sets. For each 1x Set card, score 1 point for every card you won that shows a matching icon, including itself, other matching set collecting cards, and each wild card.
==== Neighbor Set Cards: ====
For each Neighbor Set card, score 1 point for every card your neighbors won that shows a matching icon, including wild cards.
==== Sum: ====
Highest score wins the game.
==== Tie? ====
If tied at the end of a game, the tied player who won the latest sale wins the game.

== Solo or 2p Co-op Rules ==

=== Solo Deal: ===
Each round, deal yourself two hands of 12 cards. Keep each face up. Play each like different players taking turns in a circle. Each hand has its own score area.

=== Co-op Deal: ===
Each round, both players draw 12 cards. Players can’t show or talk about cards in their hand.

=== On Suit: ===
You must play on suit if able. If you don’t have a card on suit, you may play any card, but cannot win the sale.

=== Wilds: ===
Wild cards count as on suit for every suit. You may play them during any sale, but if you don’t have any other cards on suit, you must play a wild if you have one. Last tied
card wins the sale.

=== Table Talk: ===
In co-op, you cannot discuss the cards you have in your hand.
(Beginners may talk freely).

=== Winning Solo/2p Co-op ===
After the third round, count each player or hand’s score! The lowest score is the team’s final score.
: Score 45+ Not bad!
: Score 55+ Good job.
: Score 65+ Wow!

Gamehelpdraftandwriterecords

2024-06-06T04:48:10Z

X: Correcting typos" !loose, +lose

== Overview ==

Draft & Write Records is a game where you draft cards to score points and gain bonuses on your player sheet. The game is played over a series of weeks and weekends.

In a week, players draft 4 out of 5 cards to check spaces on their player sheets. After a week comes the weekend where players can claim objectives to score points and gain bonuses.stat

== Setup ==

In the setup, players choose a color linked to the lead singer. Then, public goals are revealed and players must choose one private goal out of 2 goals.

== Week ==

At the start of each week, players draw 5 play cards each from the play deck, or from their shuffled private discard if the play deck is empty. Then, players choose 1 card to play.

Once all players choose, all players must mark their player sheets. Players can always choose to Fail a card. Then play cards are passed clockwise or counterclockwise (this alternates each week) and the same steps are done. The last card is then discarded in a private discard for each player. So each player chooses 4 cards and discard one card.

There are 3 types of play cards:

* Crew: Each crew has a subsection: Singer, Musician, Producer and Backstage. They can only be placed in their subsection. Some spaces requires that a cash restriction be lifted before a crew can be placed. Crew can have harmonies between them if their color matches.

* Agenda: Agenda must be marked in the Agenda section on the player sheet.

* Asset: Assets must be marked in the Assets section on the player sheet.

== Weekend ==

Each public goal is checked. If one or multiple players can claim the goal, they can choose to claim it or pass. If at least one player claims the goal, the goal is discarded. Multiple players can claim the same goal. When a goal is claimed, the players score points and can gain bonuses that they must mark on their player sheet. If a public goal is impossible to be claimed by any players, it’s discarded.

Once all 4 public goals have been checked, players can do the same with their private goal.

== Player Sheets ==

There are 10 sections on the player sheets:

* Fail: If you cannot place a play card or if you choose not to place it, you can fail. You check spaces from left to right and you will lose points based on the rigthmost checked space. You gain a cash restriction bonus on your second fail.

* Goals: When you claim a goal, you write its score in these spaces. You can claim a maximum of 6 goals.

* Agenda: You can check these spaces in any order with a play card or with some bonuses. You gain bonuses if you check all spaces in a row, a column or a diagonal.

* Release: You can release Album or Singles. In either case, you check spaces from left to right. Some spaces give you bonuses. You score points based on the number of Album multipled by the number of Singles.

* Crew: You place the score of a crew play card and you color each of the 4 spaces around. You can use a multiplier on the score if you have unused multiplier in your multiplier section. If the color matches the color of another crew, you gain a bonues. You cannot place crews in spaces where there’s a cash restriction, you must check the cash restriction first. You lose points at the end of the game if your crew is not full.

* Tour: You start checking spaces from the top-left. You must check a space before to be able to fo further. Some spaces are protected by cash restriction which must be checked before you can go further. Some spaces give you bonuses.

* Multiplier: When you gain a multiplier, you check a space. You can use a multiplier when you place crews to gain a bigger score.

* Assets: You can check these spaces in any order with a play card or with some bonuses. You gain bonuses if you check the two spaces around a bonus.

* Harmonies: You can check these spaces in any order when you gain an harmony bonus for a specific color for the crews. You can also gain harmony bonuses for any color. Some spaces give you bonuses. You score points if you check all spaces in a row or a column.

* Scores: This section only contains the total of the score of each sections.

== End game ==

When one player has checked all Fails, or placed all Crews or claimed the maximum number of goals on their player sheet, the end of the game is triggered.

If the end game is trigged in a week, the week ends and there is one last weekend. If the end game is trigged in a weekend, the game ends at the end of that weekend.

At the end of the game, check one Fail for each missing crew.

== Solo Mode ==

In Solo, you do not have a private goal. The turn structure is also different:

On your turn, you draw two play cards. You then choose:

* Option A: you play one of the two cards and discard the other. You then start another turn.

* Option B: You draw a third card. If all cards are of the same section or if no cards are of the same section, you can play any cards. If not, then there are two cards with the same section and you must play the other card. Then, you can claim or pass a single goal. You you pass or cannot claim a goal, you discard the 4th goal. If you claim a goal, you discard the 4th goal, except if you claimed the 4th goal. You then slide all goals right and draw a new goal. You then start another turn.

The game ends when you cannot draw two play cards or if you checked all Fails, or placed all Crews or claimed the maximum number of goals on your player sheet.

Gamehelpgangsta

2023-03-11T01:06:21Z

X: /* CRITICAL INFORMATION for new players */

[[Category:Card games]]
==CRITICAL INFORMATION for new players==
If you do not recruit plenty of gangsters with the snitch symbol, the game will be a miserable mess of passed turns and essentially unplayable.

== Theme ==

In '''Gangsta!''', players personify the character of a Boss who is determined to expand their influence at the expense of their rival factions. Players will be required to recruit a number of gangsters in order to perform the most profitable heists available. At the end of the game, the player with the most Influence wins.

== Setup ==

* Each player randomly receives a Boss Card and the indicated number of $.
* Set up a river of 5 available heists from the first chapter (Genesis).
* Set up a river of 5 available gangsters.

== Gameplay ==

Players take turn Mobilizing their gang before performing one of the three Actions allowed, recruiting a gangster, performing a heist, or passing.

At the end of each player turn the river is replenished, and if a snitch is revealed its effect is resolved immediately

== Gang mobilization ==

If a gangster previously took part in a heist they are '''''engaged''''', if not they are '''''available'''''

During this phase a player can pay 1$ to change a gangster from ''engaged'' to ''available'', this can be performed for free once per '''''available''''' gangster with the '''Leader''' (yellow) skill

=== synchronization ===

If all the of gangsters of a player are '''''engaged''''' the gang is deemed '''''synchronized''''' and they all become available.

== Actions ==

=== Recruit ===

A player can recruit a gangster by paying the cost of that gangster to the bank.

=== Perform a Heist ===

In order to perform a heist, a player must engage enough gangsters to have all the skills required by the Heist Card. Heists can only be performed by Available gangsters.

The player first selects the heist then starts engaging gangsters taking part in the heist. A gangster can on be selected if he has at least one skill still needed to perform the heist.

Once all the skills needed for the heist are met, all the gangsters are ''engaged'' and the player collects '''Influence''', '''Money''' as well as any additional rewards from the heist.

==== Cooperative heists ====

When selecting the team performing the heist once the first gangster has been selected following the usual rule, the remaining gangsters can be picked from any player gang. Each player who has at least one gangster participating in the heist will gain the cooperative reward (including the initiator).

=== Pass ===

A player can decide to pass his/her turn. By doing so, the player receives an income equivalent to the number of gangsters possessing the '''Leader''' (yellow) skill.

=== Snitch ===

When a '''snitch''' card is revealed (during chapter 2 & 3) each player must immediately pay 1$ per '''Informant''' (green) skill on the card. They can reduce this cost by 1$ per Informant skill in their gang.

If they do not have enough money to pay they must discard one gangster

'''A Boss can never, under any circumstance be discarded''', if he is the only eligible gangster then nothing happens.

== Chapters ==

The game is divided in three chapters
* '''Genesis''' is the first chapter
* '''Gang Wars''' starts when one player recruits their '''4th''' gangster
* '''Domination''' starts when one player recruits their '''7th''' gangster

=== Genesis ===

At the end of the '''Genesis''' chapter an additional income is awarded to players called ''opportunity income''.
Each player adds the amount of skills within their gang
* The player with the most skills receives nothing
* The players with fewer skills receive the difference in money

=== Gang Wars ===

There are 3 snitches in the ''Gang Wars'' heist deck, rated 2, 3, and 4 '''Informant''' (green) skill

At the end of the '''Gang Wars''' chapter each player adds up the amount of '''Mercenary''' (grey) skill in their gang.
* The player with the most ''Mercenaries'' doesn't lost any gangster
* Every other player (everyone in case of a tie) must discard 1 gangster

In a 2 player game, if one player has '''double''' the amount of ''Mercenary'' (grey) skill or more, they will choose which gangster is discarded.

=== Domination ===

There are 5 snitches in the ''Domination'' heist deck, rated 2, 3, 3, 4, and 4 '''Informant''' (green) skill

== End Game ==

The game end when a player recruits their 9th gangster, or when the 3rd Snitch is revealed during the Domination Chapter.

== Scoring ==

Each player will add the ''Influence'' they have gained.

* The sum of ''Influence'' on your gangsters
* The sum of ''Influence'' from heists you have performed
* The wealthiest player wins 2 ''Influence'' (1 if tied)
* The player with the most gangsters wins 2 ''Influence''(1 if tied)

The player with the most ''Influence'' wins the game.

Gamehelpgangsta

2023-03-11T01:05:54Z

[[Category:Card games]]
==CRITICAL INFORMATION for new players==
If you do not recruit plenty of gangsters with the snitch card, the game will be a miserable mess of passsed turns and essentially unplayable.

== Theme ==

In '''Gangsta!''', players personify the character of a Boss who is determined to expand their influence at the expense of their rival factions. Players will be required to recruit a number of gangsters in order to perform the most profitable heists available. At the end of the game, the player with the most Influence wins.

== Setup ==

* Each player randomly receives a Boss Card and the indicated number of $.
* Set up a river of 5 available heists from the first chapter (Genesis).
* Set up a river of 5 available gangsters.

== Gameplay ==

Players take turn Mobilizing their gang before performing one of the three Actions allowed, recruiting a gangster, performing a heist, or passing.

At the end of each player turn the river is replenished, and if a snitch is revealed its effect is resolved immediately

== Gang mobilization ==

If a gangster previously took part in a heist they are '''''engaged''''', if not they are '''''available'''''

During this phase a player can pay 1$ to change a gangster from ''engaged'' to ''available'', this can be performed for free once per '''''available''''' gangster with the '''Leader''' (yellow) skill

=== synchronization ===

If all the of gangsters of a player are '''''engaged''''' the gang is deemed '''''synchronized''''' and they all become available.

== Actions ==

=== Recruit ===

A player can recruit a gangster by paying the cost of that gangster to the bank.

=== Perform a Heist ===

In order to perform a heist, a player must engage enough gangsters to have all the skills required by the Heist Card. Heists can only be performed by Available gangsters.

The player first selects the heist then starts engaging gangsters taking part in the heist. A gangster can on be selected if he has at least one skill still needed to perform the heist.

Once all the skills needed for the heist are met, all the gangsters are ''engaged'' and the player collects '''Influence''', '''Money''' as well as any additional rewards from the heist.

==== Cooperative heists ====

When selecting the team performing the heist once the first gangster has been selected following the usual rule, the remaining gangsters can be picked from any player gang. Each player who has at least one gangster participating in the heist will gain the cooperative reward (including the initiator).

=== Pass ===

A player can decide to pass his/her turn. By doing so, the player receives an income equivalent to the number of gangsters possessing the '''Leader''' (yellow) skill.

=== Snitch ===

When a '''snitch''' card is revealed (during chapter 2 & 3) each player must immediately pay 1$ per '''Informant''' (green) skill on the card. They can reduce this cost by 1$ per Informant skill in their gang.

If they do not have enough money to pay they must discard one gangster

'''A Boss can never, under any circumstance be discarded''', if he is the only eligible gangster then nothing happens.

== Chapters ==

The game is divided in three chapters
* '''Genesis''' is the first chapter
* '''Gang Wars''' starts when one player recruits their '''4th''' gangster
* '''Domination''' starts when one player recruits their '''7th''' gangster

=== Genesis ===

At the end of the '''Genesis''' chapter an additional income is awarded to players called ''opportunity income''.
Each player adds the amount of skills within their gang
* The player with the most skills receives nothing
* The players with fewer skills receive the difference in money

=== Gang Wars ===

There are 3 snitches in the ''Gang Wars'' heist deck, rated 2, 3, and 4 '''Informant''' (green) skill

At the end of the '''Gang Wars''' chapter each player adds up the amount of '''Mercenary''' (grey) skill in their gang.
* The player with the most ''Mercenaries'' doesn't lost any gangster
* Every other player (everyone in case of a tie) must discard 1 gangster

In a 2 player game, if one player has '''double''' the amount of ''Mercenary'' (grey) skill or more, they will choose which gangster is discarded.

=== Domination ===

There are 5 snitches in the ''Domination'' heist deck, rated 2, 3, 3, 4, and 4 '''Informant''' (green) skill

== End Game ==

The game end when a player recruits their 9th gangster, or when the 3rd Snitch is revealed during the Domination Chapter.

== Scoring ==

Each player will add the ''Influence'' they have gained.

* The sum of ''Influence'' on your gangsters
* The sum of ''Influence'' from heists you have performed
* The wealthiest player wins 2 ''Influence'' (1 if tied)
* The player with the most gangsters wins 2 ''Influence''(1 if tied)

The player with the most ''Influence'' wins the game.