Board Game Arena - User contributions [en]

Tips daybreak

2026-09-02T11:58:32Z

Romain672:

=== Symbol Terminology: ===
Refer to the '''Symbol Terminology''' section later in the guide for a list of terms and symbol explanations (tags, resilience, etc.). Use '''CTRL+F''' to search for unfamiliar terms.

=== Finding Card Information: ===
You can look up card details in two ways:<ol style="
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<li style="list-style-type:decimal;">Click the "?" in the bottom left corner of any card to open its dedicated page on https://daybreakgame.org/explore-cards, which provides an in-depth breakdown. </li>
<li style="list-style-type:decimal;">Hover over a card for a quick description. ''Tip: You can view "buried/tucked" cards this way, useful when discarding the top layer of a stack..''</li><li style="list-style-type:decimal;">List of all cards (Fan created) - [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1vcwCeUuMxzXbT3QUkF4Tk0rTmTtf2SNeACxVuStc0yU/edit?usp=sharing https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1vcwCeUuMxzXbT3QUkF4Tk0rTmTtf2SNeACxVuStc0yU]</li>
</ol>

===Game End===
Winning Conditions
<ul class="bulletlist" style="
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<li>Reduce '''Net Carbon''' to '''-1''' (visible under the world map).</li>
<li>Survive a '''final crisis round.'''</li>
</ul>

Optional Challenge Cards
<ul class="bulletlist" style="
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<li>If '''Global or Local Challenge Cards''' are active, their conditions must be met for the game to end.</li>
<li>If you want a more extended game, consider adding challenge cards (hard or variable).</li>
</ul>

=== General Tips ===

<li>Use the '''chat''' to '''communicate''' so your teammates are on the same page:
</li>

<li></li>

===Understanding Cards===
Card Mechanics

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<li>The 5 starting local projects cards are fixed based on the country you play as. </li>
<li>Discarded global project cards are reshuffled once the deck is depleted. Discarding good cards allows them to be '''redrawn''' later by a player when the deck is reshuffled. </li> </ul>Frequency of Use & Card Retention<ul class="bulletlist" style="
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<li>'''"Once per round"''' effects can be triggered both at the '''end''' of a round and the '''beginning''' of the next.</li>
<li>You can '''keep cards in your hand between rounds''', potentially activating them twice before covering them. </li>
<li>Cards '''without''' "once per round" may be used multiple times, or '''as many times as resource availability allows.''' </li>
<li>Before ending your round, '''maximize card effects'''-limited-use cards display '''X/X''', in the bottom right corner to track usage. </li>
<li>Avoid holding onto cards that can't be utilized immediately or in the short-term - they may be better '''tucked''' into a stack or '''discarded''' to activate a stack.. </li>
</ul>

===Understanding Stacks===
Stack Mechanics

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<li>There are '''5 "Local Projects" stacks''' (an "easy" challenge card allows for a '''6th''' stack).</li>
<li>The '''top card''' in each stack is '''active''', utilizing '''all tags''' within the stack.</li>
<li>Adding a new '''top card tucks''' the '''previous card''', making only its '''tags''' available.</li></ul>Stack Optimization<ul class="bulletlist" style="
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<li>Assign each stack a '''dedicated function''' (e.g., '''Power Generation''', '''Dirty Energy Removal''', '''Card Draw 1, Card Draw 2, Emission Removal''')</li>
<li>The '''top card''' in each stack is '''active''', utilizing '''all tags''' within the stack.</li>
<li>Adding a new '''top card tucks''' the '''previous card''', making only its '''tags''' available.</li>
<li>Keep similar card '''tags''' together '''enhances synergies.''' </li>
<li>Avoid scattering '''energy-related cards -''' as some require '''matching tags''' within the stack for activation. </li>
<li>Depending on your strategy, you may '''keep the same card on a stack''' the entire game, e.g., Persistent Card Draws that have 2-3 cards drawn per round, or a card that one that produces trees every round.</li></ul>Advanced Engine Tucking Strategies<ul class="bulletlist" style="
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<li>Most stacks only need to be 2 deep for efficient engine optimization. (e.g., 2 energy per discard, 2 energy removal per discard) </li>
<li>Cards '''can''' be tucked '''under''' a stack to utilize its '''tags''' for immediate benefits. </li>
<li>'''Global Projects''' with tag-triggered benefits '''only activate''' when played as the '''top card'''. </li><li>If covering a top card, '''use its benefits''' before replacing it.
</li>
</ul>Adapting Strategies<ul class="bulletlist" style="
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<li>It is OK to '''change plans''' if covering a card '''helps activate a new card'''. Sometimes it is beneficial to cover cards in a stack to gain the tags to activate a new card you've received.</li></ul>

=== Crises ===
<ul class="bulletlist" style="
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<li>The fast game strategy typically ignores Crises and does not spend cards to mitigate or stop crises from happening. </li>
<li>'''Not all crises are negative'''; Crises where you can discard cards from the play area can be HELPFUL if you buried a card to use another card's effects </li>
<li>Crises to look out for:
<li>Crises that penalizes players that have one or more "cows" - Consider removing cows for this reason when removing emissions! Consider removing cows for this reason when removing emissions! Relevant crisis cards: ⭐[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1428 Deforestation] ([https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1429 Also this card]) - Remove 1 Tree for each player who has Agriculture Emission tokens. </li>
<li>Late Game: There are crises that removes one social resilience for every 2 CIC's you have </li>
<li> There are Crises that that removes two dirty energy and triggers again the malus of CIC on energy (so if you are at -2 energy, and it triggers on you, you first gain 2 CIC, and then gain up to 4 CIC, which is a lot).
</li> </li></ul>

.

===Fast Game Strategy===

==== Aggressively Cut Emissions, Winning by Turn 3 ====
<ul class="bulletlist" style="
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<li>'''Early Emission Cuts are Critical:''' Reduce '''2-3 emissions in turn 1''' - more is better. In this strategy stockpiling resilience, combatting/mitigating upcoming crises, oceans and trees generation, and managing Communities in Crisis tokens take a '''backseat to rapid emission reduction.'''.</li>
<li>'''Global Card Selection''' - Pick options that don't require tucked cards. </li>
<li>'''Total Emissions to Remove:''' Aim to '''cut 14 emissions''' quickly to win before crisis escalation ('''20+ emissions needed if delayed).''' </li>
<li>'''Dirty Electricity Phase-Out Engine''': Prioritize phase out immediately, '''especially for China / Minority World''' (starting with '''8+ dirty emissions'''). This helps mitigate situations where key cards don't appear early to help with non-energy emissions reductions. </li>
<li>'''Clean Energy Generation''': Target 3-4 energy per discard - exceeding this is likely wasteful. </li>
<li>'''Balance Energy Use:''' If energy '''goes negative''', make sure it’s '''intentional'''—only take the hit if it leads to a major emissions cut.</li>
<li>'''Optimized Stack Use (1 Power Generation, 1 Dirty Energy Phase-Out, 2 Card Draw Engines, 1 Non-Dirty Emissions Removal)'''</li>
<li>'''CIC's Are a Currency:''' Don't waste resources stopping Communities in Crisis - think of them as '''expendable resource''' for the greater goal, where the team is trying to slow down Communities in Crisis instead of eliminating them entirely.</li>
<li>'''Card Use Optimization:''' Most card's aren't strong on their own - '''tuck weak cars''' behind '''high-impact engines''' or use them as discards for better combos. </li>
<li>'''Resilience is Low Priority Early''': Delay resilience-building until '''turn 3 or later''' (only 2-3 total needed, as you are not stopping the accrual of CIC's. </li>
<li>'''Play to your country's strengths''' - The US / Europe generate less emissions and can focus on building card engines/energy engines to help provide energy generation or extra cards for China / Minority World. </li></ul>

==== Fast Game Strategy Risks ====
<ul class="bulletlist" style="
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<li>'''Crisis Snowballing:''' Prioritizing emissions reduction over resilience means crisis rounds can escalate quickly. If resilience is too low, '''a bad dice roll could generate enough Communities in Crisis (CICs) to end the game.'''</li>
<li>'''Energy Deficits:''' Overcommitting to emissions cuts may lead to '''negative energy balance,''' which results in additional CICs—this can backfire if unchecked.</li>
<li>'''Thermometer Mismanagement:''' If the temperature rises too fast before you win, additional emission reductions per turn are required just to '''break even,''' increasing the total emissions needed.</li>
<li>'''Weak Late-Game Scaling:''' If you don't win by '''round 3,''' crisis events and emissions accumulation can quickly spiral out of control, requiring more cuts than planned.</li>
<li>'''Limited Flexibility:''' The strategy relies on aggressive execution—if key cards don’t appear early, you may struggle to maintain progress.</li></ul>

==== Fast Game - Local Project Cards to Look for - (⭐Best / 🥈Good) ====

==== 1.Search the Deck for Cards Engine → Controlled card selection is key. ====
<ul class="bulletlist" style="margin:1em 0; padding-inline-start:40px;">
<li>⭐[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1117 '''Clean Energy R+D'''] (Starting Card - [https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1213 US], [https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1203 Solo (Draw 5)], 3 Copies in Deck - [https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1117 1] [https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1118 2] [https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1119 3]) (Energy, Innovation tags) - Discard 1, draw 3, keep 1.
<li>Tip: Stack multiple Clean Energy R+D cards (exhaust the first's actions prior to placing additional Clean Energy R+D on top).</li></li>
</ul>

==== 2. Draw Cards - Emissions Focused ====
<ul class="bulletlist" style="margin:1em 0; padding-inline-start:40px;">
<li>🥈'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1208 Emissions Technology R+D]''' (China ''Starting Card'' - Incentive tag) – Draw 2 per Incentive tag in this card's stack. Add any cards that reduce Emissions from Dirty Energy or [https://www.daybreakgame.org/emissions other Emissions sources] to your hand. Discard the other cards. Use until you find a better card to replace it in the stack.</li>
<li>🥈'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1054 Luxury Consumption Tax]''' (Regulation tag) – Draw 2 per Regulation tag in this card's stack. Add any cards that reduce Emissions from Dirty Energy or [https://www.daybreakgame.org/emissions other Emissions sources] to your hand. Discard the other cards.</li>
</ul>
==== 3. Generate Clean Energy (No Discard) Engines ====
<ul class="bulletlist" style="margin:1em 0; padding-inline-start:40px;">
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1025 Fourth Generation Nuclear]''' (Nuclear & Energy tags) – '''+2 Clean Energy''' tokens for each '''Nuclear tag''' in this card's stack. Requirements: At least 1 Regulation tag and 1 Innovation tag in this card's stack. (Once Per Round)</li>
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1019 Integrated Planning Solar]''' (Solar & Energy tags) – +1 Clean Energy token or each Solar tag in this card's stack. Requirements: Must have at least 2 Grid tags in this card's stack. (Once per round</li>
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1022 Small Scale Onshore Wind]''' (Wind & Energy tags) – +1 Clean Energy token for each Wind tag in this card's stack. Requirements: Must have at least 2 Grid tags in this card's stack. (Once per round)</li>
<li>🥈'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1132 Community Wind]''' or '''🥈[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1131 Community Solar]''' (Energy, Society, Wind/Solar tags) – Add Clean Energy & Infrastructure Resilience if you meet the following requirements: +1 Clean Energy (1-2 Society), +1 Clean Energy & +1 Infrastructure resilience (3–4 Society), +2 Clean Energy & +1 Infrastructure resilience (4–5 Regulation) in the stack. (Once Per Round)</li>
</ul>'''4. Generate Energy (Discard 1) Engines'''<ul class="bulletlist" style="margin:1em 0; padding-inline-start:40px;">
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1026 Major Solar Program]''' (Solar, Grid, Energy tags) - Discard 1, +2 Clean Energy tokens for each Solar tag in this card's stack. Requirements: At least 3 Grid tags in this card's stack to take this action.</li>
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1028 Major Nuclear Program]''' (Nuclear, Grid, Energy tags) - Discard, +2 Clean Energy tokens for each Nuclear tag in this card's stack. Requirements: At least 2 Regulation tags and 1 Society tag in this card's stack to take this action.</li></ul>

==== 5. Reduce Dirty Energy Engines ====
<ul class="bulletlist" style="margin:1em 0; padding-inline-start:40px;">
<li>🥈'''Starting Card -''' '''Dirty Electricity Phaseout''' ([https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1221 '''Majority World'''] - Energy, [https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1216 Europe] / [https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1211 US] - Incentive, or [https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1206 China] / [https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1201 Solo] - Regulation tag) - Discard 1, remove 1 Dirty Energy per Energy/Incentive/Regulation tag</li><li>⭐[https://Www.daybreakgame.org/card/1045 '''Drilling & Mining Bans'''] or ⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1044 Fossil Fuel Nationalization] ('''Regulation & Society or Ecology & Regulation tags) - Discard 1, Remove 2 Dirty Energy per Regulatory Tag</li><li>🥈'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1048 Green Energy Transition]''' ([https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1043 2 copies]) (Regulation tag) – Whenever you take an action that adds 2 or more Clean Energy tokens, you may remove 1 Dirty Energy token. (Will trigger multiple times per round.)</li>
</ul>'''6. Reduce Emissions''' <ul class="bulletlist" style="margin:1em 0; padding-inline-start:40px;">
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1053 Circular Economy]''' (Regulation & Society tags) – Remove Emissions (of any kind) & add resiliencies if you meet the following requirements: Remove 1 Emission (2–4 Regulation tags), or remove 1 Emissions token (of any kind) and decrease your Energy Demand by 1 (5+ Regulation tags). (Once per round)
</li>
</ul>'''7. Local Projects to Plant Trees & Oceans''' → Low impact unless desperate for last emissions cuts<ul class="bulletlist" style="margin:1em 0; padding-inline-start:40px;">
<li>🥈'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1037 Forest Restoration]''' or 🥈'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1038 Peatland Rewetting]''' (Ecology tag) – Gain 1 Tree. (Once per round)</li>
<li>🥈'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1041 Mangrove Restoration]''' (Ecology & Infrastructure tags) – Gain 1 Ocean. (Once per round)</li>
</ul>

==== Fast Game - Local Project Cards Types to Avoid ====
<ul class="bulletlist" style="margin:1em 0; padding-inline-start:40px;">
<li>🚫Gain Resilience→ Not needed - Resilience-building should be delayed in this strategy.</li><li>🚫Remove Communities In Crisis Tokens → Not avoiding CIC's - utilized as a resource to manage.</li><li>🚫Reduce Damage → Not needed unless the game drags on.</li><li>🚫'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1009 Green Investment Bank]''' (Innovation tag) – Draw cards if you meet the following requirements: Draw 1 (2–3 Innovation), Draw 2 (4–5 Innovation), Draw 3 (6+ Innovation) in the stack. '''Issue: Competes with [https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1117 Clean Energy R+D] for use of Innovation tags;''' if possible, consider sandwiching between Clean Energy R+D cards.</li>
</ul>

=== Longer Game Strategy ===

==== Resilience-Based Approach, Win After Turn 3 ====
<ul class="bulletlist" style="
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<li>'''Slow & Steady Progression''': Build '''energy generation''', maintaining '''positive energy balance.''' </li>
<li>'''Leveraging Card Draw''': More '''cards in play''' strengthen late-game synergies. </li>
<li>'''Survivability Focus:''' Resilience-building ensures '''long-term crisis management.''' </li>
<li>'''Reduce some Emissions Early:''' Even in this strategy, cutting at least '''1-2 emissions in turn 1''' is equivalent to having cut 5-10 emissions in turn 5, thereby preventing thermometer escalation. </li>
<li>'''Optimize Crisis Management:''' Avoid '''wasting cards''' solely on resilience - use '''only necessary resilience''' while keeping emissions reduction in mind. </li></ul>

==== Longer Game Strategy Risks ====
<ul class="bulletlist" style="
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<li>'''Slow Start:''' Since this approach delays '''aggressive emissions cuts,''' the thermometer may rise early, increasing the total emissions needed to win. </li>
<li>'''Energy Maintenance vs Overbuilding:''' Don’t '''over-prioritize energy generation''' at the cost of missing emissions cuts.</li>
<li>'''Wasted Cards:''' Over-investing in '''crisis mitigation''' may use cards that could have been spent cutting emissions directly, making victory harder. </li>
<li>'''Energy Efficiency Trade-offs:''' While maintaining '''positive energy balances''' is useful, sacrificing too many plays for resilience can slow down emissions reduction. </li>
<li>'''Crisis Overconfidence:''' While resilience '''helps mitigate''' crisis effects, it doesn’t directly contribute to winning—focusing too much on it can lead to '''endgame stalls''' where CIC accumulation limits options.</li>
<li>'''Look Ahead:''' If crisis events start piling up, check for '''opportunities to flip back to emissions reduction mode''' rather than playing too defensively.</li></ul>

==== Longer Game Best Local Project Cards to Look For ====

===== 1.Search the Deck for Cards Engine → Controlled card selection is key. =====
<ul class="bulletlist" style="margin:1em 0; padding-inline-start:40px;">
<li>⭐[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1117 '''Clean Energy R+D'''] (Starting Card - [https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1213 US], [https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1203 Solo (Draw 5)], 3 Copies in Deck - [https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1117 1] [https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1118 2] [https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1119 3]) (Energy, Innovation tags) - Discard 1, draw 3, keep 1.
<li>Tip: Stack multiple Clean Energy R+D cards (exhaust the first's actions prior to placing additional Clean Energy R+D on top).</li></li>
</ul>

==== 2. Local Projects to Draw Cards → ''Sustained card advantage helps adaptation'' ====
Draw Tag Specific Cards – Once per round, draw cards from the top of the deck and keep all cards of a certain tag. Discard the others. Once per round.
<ul class="bulletlist" style="margin:1em 0; padding-inline-start:40px;">
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1115 Energy Infrastructure R+D]''' (Grid & Energy tags) – Draw 7 – Add all Grid and/or Innovation tag cards to your hand.</li>
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1112 Nuclear R+D]''' (Nuclear & Energy tags) – Draw 9 – Add all Nuclear and/or Innovation tag cards to your hand.</li>
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1113 Solar R+D]''' (Solar & Energy tags) – Draw 8 – Add all Solar and/or Innovation tag cards to your hand.</li>
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1114 Wind R+D]''' (Wind & Energy tags) – Draw 8 – Add all Wind and/or Innovation tag cards to your hand.</li>
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1125 Geoengineering R+D]''' (Geoengineering tag) – Draw 8 – Add all Geoengineering and/or Innovation tag cards to your hand.</li>
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1116 Soil Education]''' (Ecology tag) – Draw 8 – Add all Ecology and/or Innovation tag cards to your hand.</li>
</ul>
Draw One, Two or Three Cards – Based on Tag Requirements in the Stack – Once per round.
<ul class="bulletlist" style="margin:1em 0; padding-inline-start:40px;">
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1008 Green Quantitative Easing]''' (Incentive tag) – Draw cards if you meet the following requirements: Draw 1 (2–3 Regulation), Draw 2 (4–5 Regulation), Draw 3 (6+ Regulation) in the stack.</li>
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1007 Fossil Fuel Subsidies Ban]''' (Regulation tag) – Draw cards if you meet the following requirements: Draw 1 (2–3 Regulation), Draw 2 (4–5 Regulation), Draw 3 (6+ Regulation) in the stack.</li>
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1204 Clean Energy Investments]''' (Energy tag) – Draw cards if you meet the following requirements: Draw 1 (2–3 Energy tags), Draw 2 (4–5 Energy tags), Draw 3 (6+ Energy tags) in the stack. Competes with stacks that have Energy tags (typically stacks to gain Clean Energy).</li></ul>

==== 3. Generate Clean Energy (No Discard) Engines → ''Consistent scaling is key''. ====
<ul class="bulletlist" style="margin:1em 0; padding-inline-start:40px;">
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1025 Fourth Generation Nuclear]''' (Nuclear & Energy tags) – Add 2 Clean Energy tokens for each '''Nuclear tag''' in this card's stack. Requirements: At least 1 Regulation tag and 1 Innovation tag in this card's stack. (Once Per Round)</li>
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1019 Integrated Planning Solar]''' (Solar & Energy tags) – +1 Clean Energy token for each Solar tag in this card's stack. Requirements: Must have at least 2 Grid tags in this card's stack. (Once per round)</li>
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1022 Small Scale Onshore Wind]''' (Wind & Energy tags) – +1 Clean Energy token for each Wind tag in this card's stack. Requirements: Must have at least 2 Grid tags in this card's stack. (Once per round)</li>
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1132 Community Wind]''' or ⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1131 Community Solar]''' (Energy, Society, Wind/Solar tags) – Add Clean Energy & Infrastructure Resilience if you meet the following requirements: 1 Clean Energy (1-2 Society), 1 Clean Energy & 1 Infrastructure resilience (3–4 Society), 2 Clean Energy & 1 Infrastructure resilience (4–5 Regulation) in the stack. (Once Per Round)</li>
</ul>

==== 4. Local Projects that Reduce Emissions / Dirty Energy / Energy Demand → ''Needed but gradual''. ====
<ul class="bulletlist" style="margin:1em 0; padding-inline-start:40px;">
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1053 Circular Economy]''' (Regulation & Society tags) – Remove Emissions (of any kind) & add resiliencies if you meet the following requirements: Remove 1 Emission (2–4 Regulation tags), or remove 1 Emissions token (of any kind) and decrease your Energy Demand by 1 (5+ Regulation tags). (Once per round)</li>
</ul>
<ul class="bulletlist" style="margin:1em 0; padding-inline-start:40px;">
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1048 Green Energy Transition]''' (Regulation tag) – Whenever you take an action that adds 2 or more Clean Energy tokens, you may remove 1 Dirty Energy token. (Note: There is no benefit to having more than 2, but you can trigger this multiple times per round.)</li>
</ul>
==== 5. Local Projects to Gain Resilience → ''Vital for long-term survival.'' ====
Plus 2 Resilience – Once per round – no requirements.
<ul class="bulletlist" style="margin:1em 0; padding-inline-start:40px;">
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1081 Systemic Risk Planning]''' (Society tag) – Add 2 Social Resilience tokens. (Once per round)</li>
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1082 Pollution Reduction]''' (Ecology tag) – Add 2 Ecological Resilience tokens. (Once per round)</li>
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1083 Distributed Energy Storage]''' (Infrastructure tag) – Add 2 Infrastructure Resilience tokens. (Once per round)</li>
</ul>
Gain resilience based on number of tags in a stack.
<ul class="bulletlist" style="margin:1em 0; padding-inline-start:40px;">
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1219 Special Drawing Rights]''' (Regulation tags) – Give any type of resilience to 1 player of your choice if you meet the following requirements: 1 resilience (2–3 Regulation), 2 resilience (4–5 Regulation), 3 resilience (6+ Regulation) in the stack.</li>
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1086 Wilderness Protection]''' (Ecology tag) – +1 Ecological Resilience token per Ecology tag in the stack.</li>
</ul>
Gain Energy + Resilience
<ul class="bulletlist" style="margin:1em 0; padding-inline-start:40px;">
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1132 Community Wind]''' or ⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1131 Community Solar]''' (Energy, Society, Wind/Solar tags) – Add Clean Energy & Infrastructure Resilience if you meet the following requirements: 1 Clean Energy (1-2 Society), 1 Clean Energy & 1 Infrastructure resilience (3–4 Society), 2 Clean Energy & 1 Infrastructure resilience (4–5 Regulation) in the stack. (Once Per Round)</li>
</ul>

==== 6. Local Projects to Remove Communities In Crisis Tokens → Vital for game longevity. ====
<ul class="bulletlist" style="margin:1em 0; padding-inline-start:40px;">
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1107 Scale Up Recovery Support]''' (Society tag) – Remove Community in Crisis Tokens from any 1 player if you meet the following requirements: Remove 1 CIC (2–3 Society tags), or Remove 2 CIC's (4+ Society tags). (Once per round)</li>
</ul>

==== 7. Local Projects to Plant Trees & Oceans → ''Supports long-term emissions control'' ====
Gain Trees/Oceans based on number of tags in a stack
<ul class="bulletlist" style="margin:1em 0; padding-inline-start:40px;">
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1035 Tree Farms]''' or ⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1036 Indigenous People's Tenure]''' (Ecology & Regulation/Society Tags) – Add Trees if you meet the following requirements: 1 Tree Token (3-4 Ecology), or Add 2 Trees (5+ Ecology) in the stack. (Once per Round)</li>
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1040 Wetland Restoration]''' (Incentive & Ecology Tags) – Add Oceans if you meet the following requirements: 1 Ocean (3-4 Ecology), or Add 2 Oceans (5+ Ecology) in the stack. (Once per Round)</li>
</ul>
Gain 1 Tree/Ocean – Once per round – no requirements
<ul class="bulletlist" style="margin:1em 0; padding-inline-start:40px;">
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1037 Forest Restoration]''' or ⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1038 Peatland Rewetting]''' (Ecology tag) – Gain 1 Tree. (Once per round)</li>
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1041 Mangrove Restoration]''' (Ecology & Infrastructure tags) – Gain 1 Ocean. (Once per round)</li>
</ul>

==== 8. Local Projects to Reduce Damage → ''Viable for mid to late game temperature mitigation - (Always confirm with team before using).'' ====
<ul class="bulletlist" style="margin:1em 0; padding-inline-start:40px;">
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1126 Stratospheric Sulfur]''' - (Geoengineering tag) - Roll the Geoengineering die and +1 to the result for each Geoengineering tag in this card's stack. The following occur based on the sum of the Geoengineering tags in the stack + the roll of the geoengineering die: remove 1 Temperature Band and draw 2 additional unknown Crisis cards.(2-4 sum total), remove 1 Temperature Bands and draw 1 additional unknown Crisis card. (5-6 sum total), If the sum is 7 or more, remove 2 Temperature Bands. Important! This is a temporary effect. Return the Temperature Bands to the Thermometer at the end of the round (after increasing Energy Demand). (Once Per Round) . '''Risks:''' With minimal resilience, having additional unknown crisis cards picked can tank the game. '''How to use it:''' You have two ways: either you have a stack of clouds, are likely to roll 7 or more, and you use it for -2 temperature bar. Or either you use it for the -1 temperature bar and +2 crisis. That will make the team roll one less dice, and make most crisis deal -1 damage. If the crisis were dealing mostly 2 to 1 damage to players before using that card, it's usually great to use it, else it's usually bad. Usually it shine turns 2&3 or when you start having the game under control. It's a gamebreaking situational card, but is enough strong to be one of the best card of the game. </li>
</ul>

=== Hybrid Strategy ===

==== Balanced Adaptability- Cut Emissions while Producing Clean Energy & Boosting Resilience in Key Moments ====
<ul class="bulletlist" style="
margin:1em 0;
padding-inline-start:40px;
">
<li>'''Adaptability Is Key:''' The ideal strategy '''adjusts based on available cards.''' </li>
<li>'''Balance Emissions & Resilience Proactively - Emissions Reduction First, Then Resilience:''' Reducing emissions early prevents crisis snowballing - resilience matters '''only once emissions are controlled.''' Begin with aggressive emissions reduction, then gradually pivot into resilience after turn 2-3.</li>
<li>'''Stacking Strategy Matters:''' Ensure '''key stacks''' (power generation, draw engines, dirty phase-out) '''are well-built early''' so resilience doesn’t take away critical card slots.</li>
<li>'''Keep a Thermometer Check''': If rising temperature is forcing extra emission reductions, '''speed up the game or pivot''' to resilience strategies. </li>
<li>'''Plan for Turn 3-5:''' If winning '''by turn 3''' isn't realistic, have a backup plan for emissions cuts in '''rounds 4-5''' without losing too much momentum. </li>
<li>'''Strategic Card Selection: Card draw accelerates better choices ('''use '''Clean Energy R&D''' for quick deck cycling). </li>
<li>When '''no direct emission-reduction cards''' are available, '''invest in resilience, trees, or ocean tokens.''' </li>
<li>'''Avoid Split Strategies Between Players:''' Having one player rush emissions and another focus on resilience '''creates imbalances. Coordinate an adaptable approach.''' </li>
<li>'''Monitor Thermometer Trends:''' If temperature is '''rising too fast,''' shift gears earlier—don’t assume '''it’ll''' '''stabilize naturally.'''</li></ul>

==== Hybrid Strategy Risks ====
<ul class="bulletlist" style="
margin:1em 0;
padding-inline-start:40px;
">
<li>'''Balance Challenges''': Striking a balance between emissions reduction and resilience-building '''requires constant adaptation'''—misallocating resources to one area can weaken the other.</li>
<li>'''Stacking & Synergy Issues:''' If stacks are '''not optimized''', cards may '''spread thin''', reducing the effectiveness of key engines.</li>
<li>'''Team Coordination Struggles:''' If one player leans heavily into Fast Game while another plays Longer Game, their strategies may conflict, leading to '''suboptimal synergies'''.</li>
<li>'''Late-Game Instability:''' This method relies on '''adjustment mid-game,''' and if adaptation isn't handled correctly, the '''wrong strategy might be pursued for too long''' before realizing the need for change.</li></ul>

=== When Cards Shine (or Don’t): ===
*The usefulness of a card often depends on the context. Some cards, for instance, reduce emissions but increase energy demand. These can be very effective if you already have strong energy generation or can easily meet the demand—but without that infrastructure or synergy, they may end up hurting more than helping.
*'''Cards that let you draw additional cards are generally valuable'''. They help build synergy, give you more options, and can often be reused in future rounds. Even spending an extra card to bump a stack from 3 to 4 can be worth it. While these cards are almost always helpful, they’re more supportive than game-changing on their own.
*Then there are the cards that tend to perform well in almost any game. These usually work well even without combos and are often strong enough to keep in play for the entire game. When building a stack around a single card, these are typically the best foundation.

==== Thoughts on each type of tag's use/usefulness.====
<ol style="
margin:1em 0;
padding-inline-start:40px;
">

<li style="list-style-type:decimal;">'''Grid:''' every nation starts with a card that lets you gain one energy per power grid you have. If you don't have a good source of energy, keeping the option of having two power grids to produce 2 energy per card discarded is pretty good. You have some cards that add one power grid while doing something else, and they are nice to transition into cards that require 3 power grids. </li>
<li style="list-style-type:decimal;">'''Energy:''' the worst color in my opinion. There is one good card that lets you remove a building, then a car, then factories, but it requires some social icons (blue/purple). I would recommend you mostly ignore it. </li>
<li style="list-style-type:decimal;">'''Nuclear:''' most of the nuclear cards are an alternative way to produce energy. Most of them require two nuclear power to be good, so they are more situational. The nuclear project is very expensive for what it does. </li>
<li style="list-style-type:decimal;">'''Wind/Solar''' the main source of energy. When you begin the game, it's very nice to have a stack to produce at least 3 energy per card discarded, but you don't have to have that to get good energy generation. Cards that produce energy over time are free, so you don't have to discard cards to generate energy. </li>
<li style="list-style-type:decimal;">'''Regulation:''' best color in my opinion, the pink project is amazing, and the great cards can remove emissions, add resilience, or draw more cards, and they both synergize really well with that color. </li>
<li style="list-style-type:decimal;">'''Social:''' the primary focus for social resilience. Outside of that, it has lots of support, which is pretty nice, as many nations start with that tag. The community cards let you slowly gain the number of infrastructure resilience you want in most games while giving you one energy per round too. </li>
<li style="list-style-type:decimal;">'''Ecology:''' the primary focus for environmental resilience. Many cards can produce one tree per round, which are really good alone on a stack. Contrary to many other colors, it has some ability to reduce emissions that</li> don't make other cards less impactful. I really advise you to build one green stack if you can.
<li style="list-style-type:decimal;">'''Infrastructure::''' the primary focus for infrastructure resilience. They never shine, but they let you increase some resilience and remove emissions. </li>
<li style="list-style-type:decimal;">'''Incentive:''' USA starts with a stack that can draw cards depending on your coin, which isn't bad to play around. Outside of that, many cards are pretty cheap and require 2 to 3 gold. So it's not usually something you play around, but in the right circumstance, it can be pretty good. </li>
<li style="list-style-type:decimal;">'''Innovation:''' the orange stack focuses on two different things: managing the crisis and getting to see new cards. I would not advise that beginners use it, but as you became better at the game, having a stack that lets you see 6 or 9 extra cards every round to find what you need is really powerful. The crisis ones aren't that good in my opinion. </li>
<li style="list-style-type:decimal;">'''Geoengineering:''' Stratospheric Sulfur is amazing. Cloud Brightening is nice on a stack by itself. Ocean Fertilization requires ecological resilience or a stack of clouds. But overall, it's pretty good. I advise you to get used to other stuff first though.</li>
</ol>

'''Example Hand / Round'''

When looking at my hand, I would use any card that gives me at least 0.6 points:

<nowiki>*</nowiki> +1 point per energy produced I need ''(0.5 point if you lack one energy OR if you lack two and don't have the most dirty energy)''

<nowiki>*</nowiki> +0.5 per resilience you gain below what you will need next round (less if you don't have much time left, or more if you don't produce much carbon per round)

<nowiki>*</nowiki> +1 point per net carbon removed (i.e.: minus emissions, tree, sea, and (1 energy produced and 1 green dirty energy removed)

<nowiki>*</nowiki> global projects

<nowiki>*</nowiki> same number of points for what you would gain next round

<nowiki>*</nowiki> +0.5 per extra draw next round

<nowiki>*</nowiki> for experienced players +0.5 for each choice between 3 cards next round ''(note that doing that can make you gain 1 point this round thanks to the new card and 0.5 next round)''

If I don't have any of those, I would ask for help, look at global projects, or find creative ways to make it work (like using two cards to remove one factory every round. That gives 1+0.5 points with my ranking, so +0.75 per card). And if I still find nothing useful, I will keep my cards, hoping for a better round later. Having more cards gives more possibilities too, so it's very unlikely that you won't be able to do anything next round. It could happen if you go for energy (because you don't have a power grid or you covered your first stack, which I would only do for a good reason i.e. it gives you at least +1.5 points for one card or a secondary way to produce energy).

Don't hesitate to keep some cards at the end of the round. It's not ideal, but you may have more options to use them on your next round, as you draw 5 extra cards each round.

Having -1 energy isn't a big deal. I personally prefer early on to have -1 energy (so +1 star) but -1 emission if I'm sure I will be able to produce energy in my second round.

You sometimes have the option to go for a big reduction in energy to be at exactly -1 emission and end the game at the end of the round.

If reducing your carbon by 1 or 2 would make you not reach the next threshold, it's usually really good to try to do so. It's similar to making all players gain +1 on all resilience for the round. For that reason, you should try to produce at least -1 emission during the first round.

If you only gain 1 house per round, you shouldn't try to force trying to get energy. In the worst case scenario, you should gain 1 star at the end of the second round and 2 more at the end of the third one, which is totally manageable. You have lots of other cards that let you produce energy or remove energy demand. If you are playing USA or have a way to give a card that could produce energy, it's usually better to give it to someone else who gains +2 or +3 energy demand each round.

===Symbol Reference Guide / Terminology===
To help reduce jargon, this is a brief guide so players can use CTRL+F to find a term. A full list and visible symbols can be found at daybreak's website (it's on the first page of the downloadable PDF rule book as well).

====Card Tag Symbols - (Colorful Circles on the Cards)====
Symbols that appear on cards that are used as part of stacks are referred to as "tags" by the game.
{| class="wikitable sortable mw-collapsible" style="width:auto;" border="2"
|+Pictures of all tag symbols can be found here: https://www.daybreakgame.org/tag-descriptions
!'''Card Tag Term'''
!'''Color'''
!'''Symbol Description'''
!'''# Unique Cards in Deck'''
!'''# Cards in Deck'''
|-
|Grid
|Blue
|☨- Power Grid
|10
|
|-
|Energy
|Green
|🔌- Outlet Plug
|27
|
|-
|Nuclear
|Dark Blue
|⚛️ - Atom
|5
|
|-
|Wind
|Light Blue
|🌀 - Pinwheel
|8
|
|-
|Solar
|Yellow
|🟨⠿⠿ - Grid of Yellow Dots (Solar Panel)
|8
|
|-
|Regulation
|Pink
|📄 Piece of Paper
|23
|
|-
|Society
|Light Purple
| 🤝 - Two hands gripping
|25
|
|-
|Ecology
|Green
|🌱 - Plant / Sprout with Leaves
|18
|
|-
|Infrastructure
|Brown / Brick Red
|🌉 - Suspension Bridge
|17
|
|-
|Incentive
|Gold
|🥞💰 - Money / Stack of Coins with $
|20
|
|-
|Innovation
|Orange
| 💡 - Lightbulb with light emitting
|11
|
|-
|Geoengineering
|Gray
|☁️🔧 - Wrench in the middle of a cloud
|7
|
|}

====Resilience Symbols====
Symbols that are in the shape of a shield are known as resilience's. They are collected per person. They are used as part of local projects and to mitigate crises.

{| class="wikitable sortable mw-collapsible" style="width:auto;" border="2"
|+Pictures of resilience symbols can be found here: https://www.daybreakgame.org/resilience
!'''Resilience Symbol Term'''
!'''Color'''
!'''Shield Description'''
|-
|Social
|Purple
|🛡️ ✊ - Shield with a fist
|-
|Ecological
|Green
|🛡️ 🌿 - Shield with a leaf
|-
|Infrastructure
|Brown / Brick Red
|🛡️❌- Shield with two roads crisscrossed
|-
|Any Type / Wild
|Light Blue
|🛡️ ☀︎- Shield with an Asterisk
|}

====Emissions Tokens / Energy====
The following are shaped like rectangles with a symbol inside.
{| class="wikitable sortable mw-collapsible" style="width:auto;" border="2"
|+Pictures of emissions & dirty energy can be found here: [https://Www.daybreakgame.org/emissions Emissions sources]
!'''Emission Token / Energy Term'''
!'''Color'''
!'''Symbol Description'''
|-
|'''Transportation'''
|Gray
|[🚘] - Car
|-
|'''Industry'''
|Gray
|🏭] - Building with Smokestack
|-
|'''Agriculture'''
| Gray
|🐮 - Cow Head
|-
|'''Buildings'''
| Gray
|🏢 - Office Buildings
|-
|'''Fuel Extraction'''
| Gray
|🗼- Oil Rig
|-
|'''Waste'''
|Gray
|🗑️- Trash Can
|-
|'''Any Type / Wild Emission'''
|Gray
| [☀︎] - Rectangle with Asterisk
|-
|'''Dirty Energy'''
|Gray
| [⚡] - Gray Lightning bolt
|-
|'''Clean Energy'''
|Green
| [⚡] - Green Lightning bolt
|}

==== Other common symbols====
{| class="wikitable sortable mw-collapsible style=" border="2" width:auto;" "
|+
!'''Common Symbol Term'''
!'''Color'''
!'''Symbol Description'''
!'''Information'''
|-
|'''Energy Demand'''
| Blue / or Blue with Yellow windows
|🏠 - House (with +/- number)
| Number of energy needed to cover demand; cards will indicate if they are increasing or decreasing energy demand. A decrease means you need less energy that round.
|-
|'''Communities in Crisis / CIC Token'''
|Multicolored
|✿ 🧑‍🤝‍🧑👬🧍 - 5 people holding hands in a pentagon shape. Each person is a different color.
|Bad to have. Obtained by failing to meet energy demand at beginning of round or by a crisis card.
If you have 4-7 communities in crisis, you will draw 1 fewer card each round. If you have 8-11 communities in crisis you will draw 2 fewer cards.
If you obtain more CIC's, you lose and the game ends.
There are cards that remove CIC tokens.
|-
|'''Direct Air Capture'''
| Gray
|⚙️ - Fan symbol
|Similar to Trees and Oceans, Captures (sequesters) emissions to avoid being added to net carbon.. Only visible on BGA if added by a player through a card; will appear next to trees / oceans.
|-
|'''Tree Token'''
|Green
|🌲 - Pine Tree
|Captures (sequesters) emissions to avoid being added to net carbon.
|-
|'''Ocean Token'''
|Blue
|🌊 - Wave of Water
|Captures (sequesters) emissions to avoid being added to net carbon.
|-
|'''Carbon'''
|Grey/ Black Outlines
|🧊 - Grey/Black Cube
|Carbon (to add to net carbon).
|}

Tips daybreak

2026-09-02T11:55:24Z

Romain672: more explanations on Stratospheric sulfur

=== Symbol Terminology: ===
Refer to the '''Symbol Terminology''' section later in the guide for a list of terms and symbol explanations (tags, resilience, etc.). Use '''CTRL+F''' to search for unfamiliar terms.

=== Finding Card Information: ===
You can look up card details in two ways:<ol style="
margin:1em 0;
padding-inline-start:40px;
">
<li style="list-style-type:decimal;">Click the "?" in the bottom left corner of any card to open its dedicated page on https://daybreakgame.org/explore-cards, which provides an in-depth breakdown. </li>
<li style="list-style-type:decimal;">Hover over a card for a quick description. ''Tip: You can view "buried/tucked" cards this way, useful when discarding the top layer of a stack..''</li><li style="list-style-type:decimal;">List of all cards (Fan created) - [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1vcwCeUuMxzXbT3QUkF4Tk0rTmTtf2SNeACxVuStc0yU/edit?usp=sharing https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1vcwCeUuMxzXbT3QUkF4Tk0rTmTtf2SNeACxVuStc0yU]</li>
</ol>

===Game End===
Winning Conditions
<ul class="bulletlist" style="
margin:1em 0;
padding-inline-start:40px;
">
<li>Reduce '''Net Carbon''' to '''-1''' (visible under the world map).</li>
<li>Survive a '''final crisis round.'''</li>
</ul>

Optional Challenge Cards
<ul class="bulletlist" style="
margin:1em 0;
padding-inline-start:40px;
">
<li>If '''Global or Local Challenge Cards''' are active, their conditions must be met for the game to end.</li>
<li>If you want a more extended game, consider adding challenge cards (hard or variable).</li>
</ul>

=== General Tips ===

<li>Use the '''chat''' to '''communicate''' so your teammates are on the same page:
</li>

<li></li>

===Understanding Cards===
Card Mechanics

<ul class="bulletlist" style="
margin:1em 0;
padding-inline-start:40px;
">
<li>The 5 starting local projects cards are fixed based on the country you play as. </li>
<li>Discarded global project cards are reshuffled once the deck is depleted. Discarding good cards allows them to be '''redrawn''' later by a player when the deck is reshuffled. </li> </ul>Frequency of Use & Card Retention<ul class="bulletlist" style="
margin:1em 0;
padding-inline-start:40px;
">
<li>'''"Once per round"''' effects can be triggered both at the '''end''' of a round and the '''beginning''' of the next.</li>
<li>You can '''keep cards in your hand between rounds''', potentially activating them twice before covering them. </li>
<li>Cards '''without''' "once per round" may be used multiple times, or '''as many times as resource availability allows.''' </li>
<li>Before ending your round, '''maximize card effects'''-limited-use cards display '''X/X''', in the bottom right corner to track usage. </li>
<li>Avoid holding onto cards that can't be utilized immediately or in the short-term - they may be better '''tucked''' into a stack or '''discarded''' to activate a stack.. </li>
</ul>

===Understanding Stacks===
Stack Mechanics

<ul class="bulletlist" style="
margin:1em 0;
padding-inline-start:40px;
">
<li>There are '''5 "Local Projects" stacks''' (an "easy" challenge card allows for a '''6th''' stack).</li>
<li>The '''top card''' in each stack is '''active''', utilizing '''all tags''' within the stack.</li>
<li>Adding a new '''top card tucks''' the '''previous card''', making only its '''tags''' available.</li></ul>Stack Optimization<ul class="bulletlist" style="
margin:1em 0;
padding-inline-start:40px;
">
<li>Assign each stack a '''dedicated function''' (e.g., '''Power Generation''', '''Dirty Energy Removal''', '''Card Draw 1, Card Draw 2, Emission Removal''')</li>
<li>The '''top card''' in each stack is '''active''', utilizing '''all tags''' within the stack.</li>
<li>Adding a new '''top card tucks''' the '''previous card''', making only its '''tags''' available.</li>
<li>Keep similar card '''tags''' together '''enhances synergies.''' </li>
<li>Avoid scattering '''energy-related cards -''' as some require '''matching tags''' within the stack for activation. </li>
<li>Depending on your strategy, you may '''keep the same card on a stack''' the entire game, e.g., Persistent Card Draws that have 2-3 cards drawn per round, or a card that one that produces trees every round.</li></ul>Advanced Engine Tucking Strategies<ul class="bulletlist" style="
margin:1em 0;
padding-inline-start:40px;
">
<li>Most stacks only need to be 2 deep for efficient engine optimization. (e.g., 2 energy per discard, 2 energy removal per discard) </li>
<li>Cards '''can''' be tucked '''under''' a stack to utilize its '''tags''' for immediate benefits. </li>
<li>'''Global Projects''' with tag-triggered benefits '''only activate''' when played as the '''top card'''. </li><li>If covering a top card, '''use its benefits''' before replacing it.
</li>
</ul>Adapting Strategies<ul class="bulletlist" style="
margin:1em 0;
padding-inline-start:40px;
">
<li>It is OK to '''change plans''' if covering a card '''helps activate a new card'''. Sometimes it is beneficial to cover cards in a stack to gain the tags to activate a new card you've received.</li></ul>

=== Crises ===
<ul class="bulletlist" style="
margin:1em 0;
padding-inline-start:40px;
">
<li>The fast game strategy typically ignores Crises and does not spend cards to mitigate or stop crises from happening. </li>
<li>'''Not all crises are negative'''; Crises where you can discard cards from the play area can be HELPFUL if you buried a card to use another card's effects </li>
<li>Crises to look out for:
<li>Crises that penalizes players that have one or more "cows" - Consider removing cows for this reason when removing emissions! Consider removing cows for this reason when removing emissions! Relevant crisis cards: ⭐[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1428 Deforestation] ([https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1429 Also this card]) - Remove 1 Tree for each player who has Agriculture Emission tokens. </li>
<li>Late Game: There are crises that removes one social resilience for every 2 CIC's you have </li>
<li> There are Crises that that removes two dirty energy and triggers again the malus of CIC on energy (so if you are at -2 energy, and it triggers on you, you first gain 2 CIC, and then gain up to 4 CIC, which is a lot).
</li> </li></ul>

.

===Fast Game Strategy===

==== Aggressively Cut Emissions, Winning by Turn 3 ====
<ul class="bulletlist" style="
margin:1em 0;
padding-inline-start:40px;
">
<li>'''Early Emission Cuts are Critical:''' Reduce '''2-3 emissions in turn 1''' - more is better. In this strategy stockpiling resilience, combatting/mitigating upcoming crises, oceans and trees generation, and managing Communities in Crisis tokens take a '''backseat to rapid emission reduction.'''.</li>
<li>'''Global Card Selection''' - Pick options that don't require tucked cards. </li>
<li>'''Total Emissions to Remove:''' Aim to '''cut 14 emissions''' quickly to win before crisis escalation ('''20+ emissions needed if delayed).''' </li>
<li>'''Dirty Electricity Phase-Out Engine''': Prioritize phase out immediately, '''especially for China / Minority World''' (starting with '''8+ dirty emissions'''). This helps mitigate situations where key cards don't appear early to help with non-energy emissions reductions. </li>
<li>'''Clean Energy Generation''': Target 3-4 energy per discard - exceeding this is likely wasteful. </li>
<li>'''Balance Energy Use:''' If energy '''goes negative''', make sure it’s '''intentional'''—only take the hit if it leads to a major emissions cut.</li>
<li>'''Optimized Stack Use (1 Power Generation, 1 Dirty Energy Phase-Out, 2 Card Draw Engines, 1 Non-Dirty Emissions Removal)'''</li>
<li>'''CIC's Are a Currency:''' Don't waste resources stopping Communities in Crisis - think of them as '''expendable resource''' for the greater goal, where the team is trying to slow down Communities in Crisis instead of eliminating them entirely.</li>
<li>'''Card Use Optimization:''' Most card's aren't strong on their own - '''tuck weak cars''' behind '''high-impact engines''' or use them as discards for better combos. </li>
<li>'''Resilience is Low Priority Early''': Delay resilience-building until '''turn 3 or later''' (only 2-3 total needed, as you are not stopping the accrual of CIC's. </li>
<li>'''Play to your country's strengths''' - The US / Europe generate less emissions and can focus on building card engines/energy engines to help provide energy generation or extra cards for China / Minority World. </li></ul>

==== Fast Game Strategy Risks ====
<ul class="bulletlist" style="
margin:1em 0;
padding-inline-start:40px;
">
<li>'''Crisis Snowballing:''' Prioritizing emissions reduction over resilience means crisis rounds can escalate quickly. If resilience is too low, '''a bad dice roll could generate enough Communities in Crisis (CICs) to end the game.'''</li>
<li>'''Energy Deficits:''' Overcommitting to emissions cuts may lead to '''negative energy balance,''' which results in additional CICs—this can backfire if unchecked.</li>
<li>'''Thermometer Mismanagement:''' If the temperature rises too fast before you win, additional emission reductions per turn are required just to '''break even,''' increasing the total emissions needed.</li>
<li>'''Weak Late-Game Scaling:''' If you don't win by '''round 3,''' crisis events and emissions accumulation can quickly spiral out of control, requiring more cuts than planned.</li>
<li>'''Limited Flexibility:''' The strategy relies on aggressive execution—if key cards don’t appear early, you may struggle to maintain progress.</li></ul>

==== Fast Game - Local Project Cards to Look for - (⭐Best / 🥈Good) ====

==== 1.Search the Deck for Cards Engine → Controlled card selection is key. ====
<ul class="bulletlist" style="margin:1em 0; padding-inline-start:40px;">
<li>⭐[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1117 '''Clean Energy R+D'''] (Starting Card - [https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1213 US], [https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1203 Solo (Draw 5)], 3 Copies in Deck - [https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1117 1] [https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1118 2] [https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1119 3]) (Energy, Innovation tags) - Discard 1, draw 3, keep 1.
<li>Tip: Stack multiple Clean Energy R+D cards (exhaust the first's actions prior to placing additional Clean Energy R+D on top).</li></li>
</ul>

==== 2. Draw Cards - Emissions Focused ====
<ul class="bulletlist" style="margin:1em 0; padding-inline-start:40px;">
<li>🥈'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1208 Emissions Technology R+D]''' (China ''Starting Card'' - Incentive tag) – Draw 2 per Incentive tag in this card's stack. Add any cards that reduce Emissions from Dirty Energy or [https://www.daybreakgame.org/emissions other Emissions sources] to your hand. Discard the other cards. Use until you find a better card to replace it in the stack.</li>
<li>🥈'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1054 Luxury Consumption Tax]''' (Regulation tag) – Draw 2 per Regulation tag in this card's stack. Add any cards that reduce Emissions from Dirty Energy or [https://www.daybreakgame.org/emissions other Emissions sources] to your hand. Discard the other cards.</li>
</ul>
==== 3. Generate Clean Energy (No Discard) Engines ====
<ul class="bulletlist" style="margin:1em 0; padding-inline-start:40px;">
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1025 Fourth Generation Nuclear]''' (Nuclear & Energy tags) – '''+2 Clean Energy''' tokens for each '''Nuclear tag''' in this card's stack. Requirements: At least 1 Regulation tag and 1 Innovation tag in this card's stack. (Once Per Round)</li>
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1019 Integrated Planning Solar]''' (Solar & Energy tags) – +1 Clean Energy token or each Solar tag in this card's stack. Requirements: Must have at least 2 Grid tags in this card's stack. (Once per round</li>
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1022 Small Scale Onshore Wind]''' (Wind & Energy tags) – +1 Clean Energy token for each Wind tag in this card's stack. Requirements: Must have at least 2 Grid tags in this card's stack. (Once per round)</li>
<li>🥈'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1132 Community Wind]''' or '''🥈[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1131 Community Solar]''' (Energy, Society, Wind/Solar tags) – Add Clean Energy & Infrastructure Resilience if you meet the following requirements: +1 Clean Energy (1-2 Society), +1 Clean Energy & +1 Infrastructure resilience (3–4 Society), +2 Clean Energy & +1 Infrastructure resilience (4–5 Regulation) in the stack. (Once Per Round)</li>
</ul>'''4. Generate Energy (Discard 1) Engines'''<ul class="bulletlist" style="margin:1em 0; padding-inline-start:40px;">
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1026 Major Solar Program]''' (Solar, Grid, Energy tags) - Discard 1, +2 Clean Energy tokens for each Solar tag in this card's stack. Requirements: At least 3 Grid tags in this card's stack to take this action.</li>
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1028 Major Nuclear Program]''' (Nuclear, Grid, Energy tags) - Discard, +2 Clean Energy tokens for each Nuclear tag in this card's stack. Requirements: At least 2 Regulation tags and 1 Society tag in this card's stack to take this action.</li></ul>

==== 5. Reduce Dirty Energy Engines ====
<ul class="bulletlist" style="margin:1em 0; padding-inline-start:40px;">
<li>🥈'''Starting Card -''' '''Dirty Electricity Phaseout''' ([https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1221 '''Majority World'''] - Energy, [https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1216 Europe] / [https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1211 US] - Incentive, or [https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1206 China] / [https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1201 Solo] - Regulation tag) - Discard 1, remove 1 Dirty Energy per Energy/Incentive/Regulation tag</li><li>⭐[https://Www.daybreakgame.org/card/1045 '''Drilling & Mining Bans'''] or ⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1044 Fossil Fuel Nationalization] ('''Regulation & Society or Ecology & Regulation tags) - Discard 1, Remove 2 Dirty Energy per Regulatory Tag</li><li>🥈'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1048 Green Energy Transition]''' ([https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1043 2 copies]) (Regulation tag) – Whenever you take an action that adds 2 or more Clean Energy tokens, you may remove 1 Dirty Energy token. (Will trigger multiple times per round.)</li>
</ul>'''6. Reduce Emissions''' <ul class="bulletlist" style="margin:1em 0; padding-inline-start:40px;">
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1053 Circular Economy]''' (Regulation & Society tags) – Remove Emissions (of any kind) & add resiliencies if you meet the following requirements: Remove 1 Emission (2–4 Regulation tags), or remove 1 Emissions token (of any kind) and decrease your Energy Demand by 1 (5+ Regulation tags). (Once per round)
</li>
</ul>'''7. Local Projects to Plant Trees & Oceans''' → Low impact unless desperate for last emissions cuts<ul class="bulletlist" style="margin:1em 0; padding-inline-start:40px;">
<li>🥈'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1037 Forest Restoration]''' or 🥈'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1038 Peatland Rewetting]''' (Ecology tag) – Gain 1 Tree. (Once per round)</li>
<li>🥈'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1041 Mangrove Restoration]''' (Ecology & Infrastructure tags) – Gain 1 Ocean. (Once per round)</li>
</ul>

==== Fast Game - Local Project Cards Types to Avoid ====
<ul class="bulletlist" style="margin:1em 0; padding-inline-start:40px;">
<li>🚫Gain Resilience→ Not needed - Resilience-building should be delayed in this strategy.</li><li>🚫Remove Communities In Crisis Tokens → Not avoiding CIC's - utilized as a resource to manage.</li><li>🚫Reduce Damage → Not needed unless the game drags on.</li><li>🚫'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1009 Green Investment Bank]''' (Innovation tag) – Draw cards if you meet the following requirements: Draw 1 (2–3 Innovation), Draw 2 (4–5 Innovation), Draw 3 (6+ Innovation) in the stack. '''Issue: Competes with [https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1117 Clean Energy R+D] for use of Innovation tags;''' if possible, consider sandwiching between Clean Energy R+D cards.</li>
</ul>

=== Longer Game Strategy ===

==== Resilience-Based Approach, Win After Turn 3 ====
<ul class="bulletlist" style="
margin:1em 0;
padding-inline-start:40px;
">
<li>'''Slow & Steady Progression''': Build '''energy generation''', maintaining '''positive energy balance.''' </li>
<li>'''Leveraging Card Draw''': More '''cards in play''' strengthen late-game synergies. </li>
<li>'''Survivability Focus:''' Resilience-building ensures '''long-term crisis management.''' </li>
<li>'''Reduce some Emissions Early:''' Even in this strategy, cutting at least '''1-2 emissions in turn 1''' is equivalent to having cut 5-10 emissions in turn 5, thereby preventing thermometer escalation. </li>
<li>'''Optimize Crisis Management:''' Avoid '''wasting cards''' solely on resilience - use '''only necessary resilience''' while keeping emissions reduction in mind. </li></ul>

==== Longer Game Strategy Risks ====
<ul class="bulletlist" style="
margin:1em 0;
padding-inline-start:40px;
">
<li>'''Slow Start:''' Since this approach delays '''aggressive emissions cuts,''' the thermometer may rise early, increasing the total emissions needed to win. </li>
<li>'''Energy Maintenance vs Overbuilding:''' Don’t '''over-prioritize energy generation''' at the cost of missing emissions cuts.</li>
<li>'''Wasted Cards:''' Over-investing in '''crisis mitigation''' may use cards that could have been spent cutting emissions directly, making victory harder. </li>
<li>'''Energy Efficiency Trade-offs:''' While maintaining '''positive energy balances''' is useful, sacrificing too many plays for resilience can slow down emissions reduction. </li>
<li>'''Crisis Overconfidence:''' While resilience '''helps mitigate''' crisis effects, it doesn’t directly contribute to winning—focusing too much on it can lead to '''endgame stalls''' where CIC accumulation limits options.</li>
<li>'''Look Ahead:''' If crisis events start piling up, check for '''opportunities to flip back to emissions reduction mode''' rather than playing too defensively.</li></ul>

==== Longer Game Best Local Project Cards to Look For ====

===== 1.Search the Deck for Cards Engine → Controlled card selection is key. =====
<ul class="bulletlist" style="margin:1em 0; padding-inline-start:40px;">
<li>⭐[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1117 '''Clean Energy R+D'''] (Starting Card - [https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1213 US], [https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1203 Solo (Draw 5)], 3 Copies in Deck - [https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1117 1] [https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1118 2] [https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1119 3]) (Energy, Innovation tags) - Discard 1, draw 3, keep 1.
<li>Tip: Stack multiple Clean Energy R+D cards (exhaust the first's actions prior to placing additional Clean Energy R+D on top).</li></li>
</ul>

==== 2. Local Projects to Draw Cards → ''Sustained card advantage helps adaptation'' ====
Draw Tag Specific Cards – Once per round, draw cards from the top of the deck and keep all cards of a certain tag. Discard the others. Once per round.
<ul class="bulletlist" style="margin:1em 0; padding-inline-start:40px;">
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1115 Energy Infrastructure R+D]''' (Grid & Energy tags) – Draw 7 – Add all Grid and/or Innovation tag cards to your hand.</li>
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1112 Nuclear R+D]''' (Nuclear & Energy tags) – Draw 9 – Add all Nuclear and/or Innovation tag cards to your hand.</li>
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1113 Solar R+D]''' (Solar & Energy tags) – Draw 8 – Add all Solar and/or Innovation tag cards to your hand.</li>
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1114 Wind R+D]''' (Wind & Energy tags) – Draw 8 – Add all Wind and/or Innovation tag cards to your hand.</li>
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1125 Geoengineering R+D]''' (Geoengineering tag) – Draw 8 – Add all Geoengineering and/or Innovation tag cards to your hand.</li>
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1116 Soil Education]''' (Ecology tag) – Draw 8 – Add all Ecology and/or Innovation tag cards to your hand.</li>
</ul>
Draw One, Two or Three Cards – Based on Tag Requirements in the Stack – Once per round.
<ul class="bulletlist" style="margin:1em 0; padding-inline-start:40px;">
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1008 Green Quantitative Easing]''' (Incentive tag) – Draw cards if you meet the following requirements: Draw 1 (2–3 Regulation), Draw 2 (4–5 Regulation), Draw 3 (6+ Regulation) in the stack.</li>
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1007 Fossil Fuel Subsidies Ban]''' (Regulation tag) – Draw cards if you meet the following requirements: Draw 1 (2–3 Regulation), Draw 2 (4–5 Regulation), Draw 3 (6+ Regulation) in the stack.</li>
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1204 Clean Energy Investments]''' (Energy tag) – Draw cards if you meet the following requirements: Draw 1 (2–3 Energy tags), Draw 2 (4–5 Energy tags), Draw 3 (6+ Energy tags) in the stack. Competes with stacks that have Energy tags (typically stacks to gain Clean Energy).</li></ul>

==== 3. Generate Clean Energy (No Discard) Engines → ''Consistent scaling is key''. ====
<ul class="bulletlist" style="margin:1em 0; padding-inline-start:40px;">
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1025 Fourth Generation Nuclear]''' (Nuclear & Energy tags) – Add 2 Clean Energy tokens for each '''Nuclear tag''' in this card's stack. Requirements: At least 1 Regulation tag and 1 Innovation tag in this card's stack. (Once Per Round)</li>
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1019 Integrated Planning Solar]''' (Solar & Energy tags) – +1 Clean Energy token for each Solar tag in this card's stack. Requirements: Must have at least 2 Grid tags in this card's stack. (Once per round)</li>
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1022 Small Scale Onshore Wind]''' (Wind & Energy tags) – +1 Clean Energy token for each Wind tag in this card's stack. Requirements: Must have at least 2 Grid tags in this card's stack. (Once per round)</li>
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1132 Community Wind]''' or ⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1131 Community Solar]''' (Energy, Society, Wind/Solar tags) – Add Clean Energy & Infrastructure Resilience if you meet the following requirements: 1 Clean Energy (1-2 Society), 1 Clean Energy & 1 Infrastructure resilience (3–4 Society), 2 Clean Energy & 1 Infrastructure resilience (4–5 Regulation) in the stack. (Once Per Round)</li>
</ul>

==== 4. Local Projects that Reduce Emissions / Dirty Energy / Energy Demand → ''Needed but gradual''. ====
<ul class="bulletlist" style="margin:1em 0; padding-inline-start:40px;">
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1053 Circular Economy]''' (Regulation & Society tags) – Remove Emissions (of any kind) & add resiliencies if you meet the following requirements: Remove 1 Emission (2–4 Regulation tags), or remove 1 Emissions token (of any kind) and decrease your Energy Demand by 1 (5+ Regulation tags). (Once per round)</li>
</ul>
<ul class="bulletlist" style="margin:1em 0; padding-inline-start:40px;">
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1048 Green Energy Transition]''' (Regulation tag) – Whenever you take an action that adds 2 or more Clean Energy tokens, you may remove 1 Dirty Energy token. (Note: There is no benefit to having more than 2, but you can trigger this multiple times per round.)</li>
</ul>
==== 5. Local Projects to Gain Resilience → ''Vital for long-term survival.'' ====
Plus 2 Resilience – Once per round – no requirements.
<ul class="bulletlist" style="margin:1em 0; padding-inline-start:40px;">
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1081 Systemic Risk Planning]''' (Society tag) – Add 2 Social Resilience tokens. (Once per round)</li>
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1082 Pollution Reduction]''' (Ecology tag) – Add 2 Ecological Resilience tokens. (Once per round)</li>
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1083 Distributed Energy Storage]''' (Infrastructure tag) – Add 2 Infrastructure Resilience tokens. (Once per round)</li>
</ul>
Gain resilience based on number of tags in a stack.
<ul class="bulletlist" style="margin:1em 0; padding-inline-start:40px;">
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1219 Special Drawing Rights]''' (Regulation tags) – Give any type of resilience to 1 player of your choice if you meet the following requirements: 1 resilience (2–3 Regulation), 2 resilience (4–5 Regulation), 3 resilience (6+ Regulation) in the stack.</li>
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1086 Wilderness Protection]''' (Ecology tag) – +1 Ecological Resilience token per Ecology tag in the stack.</li>
</ul>
Gain Energy + Resilience
<ul class="bulletlist" style="margin:1em 0; padding-inline-start:40px;">
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1132 Community Wind]''' or ⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1131 Community Solar]''' (Energy, Society, Wind/Solar tags) – Add Clean Energy & Infrastructure Resilience if you meet the following requirements: 1 Clean Energy (1-2 Society), 1 Clean Energy & 1 Infrastructure resilience (3–4 Society), 2 Clean Energy & 1 Infrastructure resilience (4–5 Regulation) in the stack. (Once Per Round)</li>
</ul>

==== 6. Local Projects to Remove Communities In Crisis Tokens → Vital for game longevity. ====
<ul class="bulletlist" style="margin:1em 0; padding-inline-start:40px;">
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1107 Scale Up Recovery Support]''' (Society tag) – Remove Community in Crisis Tokens from any 1 player if you meet the following requirements: Remove 1 CIC (2–3 Society tags), or Remove 2 CIC's (4+ Society tags). (Once per round)</li>
</ul>

==== 7. Local Projects to Plant Trees & Oceans → ''Supports long-term emissions control'' ====
Gain Trees/Oceans based on number of tags in a stack
<ul class="bulletlist" style="margin:1em 0; padding-inline-start:40px;">
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1035 Tree Farms]''' or ⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1036 Indigenous People's Tenure]''' (Ecology & Regulation/Society Tags) – Add Trees if you meet the following requirements: 1 Tree Token (3-4 Ecology), or Add 2 Trees (5+ Ecology) in the stack. (Once per Round)</li>
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1040 Wetland Restoration]''' (Incentive & Ecology Tags) – Add Oceans if you meet the following requirements: 1 Ocean (3-4 Ecology), or Add 2 Oceans (5+ Ecology) in the stack. (Once per Round)</li>
</ul>
Gain 1 Tree/Ocean – Once per round – no requirements
<ul class="bulletlist" style="margin:1em 0; padding-inline-start:40px;">
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1037 Forest Restoration]''' or ⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1038 Peatland Rewetting]''' (Ecology tag) – Gain 1 Tree. (Once per round)</li>
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1041 Mangrove Restoration]''' (Ecology & Infrastructure tags) – Gain 1 Ocean. (Once per round)</li>
</ul>

==== 8. Local Projects to Reduce Damage → ''Viable for mid to late game temperature mitigation - (Always confirm with team before using).'' ====
<ul class="bulletlist" style="margin:1em 0; padding-inline-start:40px;">
<li>⭐'''[https://www.daybreakgame.org/card/1126 Stratospheric Sulfur]''' - (Geoengineering tag) - Roll the Geoengineering die and +1 to the result for each Geoengineering tag in this card's stack. The following occur based on the sum of the Geoengineering tags in the stack + the roll of the geoengineering die: remove 1 Temperature Band and draw 2 additional unknown Crisis cards.(2-4 sum total), remove 1 Temperature Bands and draw 1 additional unknown Crisis card. (5-6 sum total), If the sum is 7 or more, remove 2 Temperature Bands. Important! This is a temporary effect. Return the Temperature Bands to the Thermometer at the end of the round (after increasing Energy Demand). (Once Per Round) . '''Risks:''' With minimal resilience, having additional unknown crisis cards picked can tank the game. '''How to use it:''' You have two ways: either you have a stack of clouds, are likely to roll 7 or more, and you use it for -2 temperature bar. Or either you use it for the -1 temperature bar and +2 crisis. That will make the team roll one less dice, and make most crisis deal -1 damage. If the crisis were dealing 2 or 1 damage before using that card, it's usually great to use it, else it's usually bad. Usually it shine turns 2&3 or when you start having the game under control. It's a gamebreaking situational card, but is enough strong to be one of the best card of the game. </li>
</ul>

=== Hybrid Strategy ===

==== Balanced Adaptability- Cut Emissions while Producing Clean Energy & Boosting Resilience in Key Moments ====
<ul class="bulletlist" style="
margin:1em 0;
padding-inline-start:40px;
">
<li>'''Adaptability Is Key:''' The ideal strategy '''adjusts based on available cards.''' </li>
<li>'''Balance Emissions & Resilience Proactively - Emissions Reduction First, Then Resilience:''' Reducing emissions early prevents crisis snowballing - resilience matters '''only once emissions are controlled.''' Begin with aggressive emissions reduction, then gradually pivot into resilience after turn 2-3.</li>
<li>'''Stacking Strategy Matters:''' Ensure '''key stacks''' (power generation, draw engines, dirty phase-out) '''are well-built early''' so resilience doesn’t take away critical card slots.</li>
<li>'''Keep a Thermometer Check''': If rising temperature is forcing extra emission reductions, '''speed up the game or pivot''' to resilience strategies. </li>
<li>'''Plan for Turn 3-5:''' If winning '''by turn 3''' isn't realistic, have a backup plan for emissions cuts in '''rounds 4-5''' without losing too much momentum. </li>
<li>'''Strategic Card Selection: Card draw accelerates better choices ('''use '''Clean Energy R&D''' for quick deck cycling). </li>
<li>When '''no direct emission-reduction cards''' are available, '''invest in resilience, trees, or ocean tokens.''' </li>
<li>'''Avoid Split Strategies Between Players:''' Having one player rush emissions and another focus on resilience '''creates imbalances. Coordinate an adaptable approach.''' </li>
<li>'''Monitor Thermometer Trends:''' If temperature is '''rising too fast,''' shift gears earlier—don’t assume '''it’ll''' '''stabilize naturally.'''</li></ul>

==== Hybrid Strategy Risks ====
<ul class="bulletlist" style="
margin:1em 0;
padding-inline-start:40px;
">
<li>'''Balance Challenges''': Striking a balance between emissions reduction and resilience-building '''requires constant adaptation'''—misallocating resources to one area can weaken the other.</li>
<li>'''Stacking & Synergy Issues:''' If stacks are '''not optimized''', cards may '''spread thin''', reducing the effectiveness of key engines.</li>
<li>'''Team Coordination Struggles:''' If one player leans heavily into Fast Game while another plays Longer Game, their strategies may conflict, leading to '''suboptimal synergies'''.</li>
<li>'''Late-Game Instability:''' This method relies on '''adjustment mid-game,''' and if adaptation isn't handled correctly, the '''wrong strategy might be pursued for too long''' before realizing the need for change.</li></ul>

=== When Cards Shine (or Don’t): ===
*The usefulness of a card often depends on the context. Some cards, for instance, reduce emissions but increase energy demand. These can be very effective if you already have strong energy generation or can easily meet the demand—but without that infrastructure or synergy, they may end up hurting more than helping.
*'''Cards that let you draw additional cards are generally valuable'''. They help build synergy, give you more options, and can often be reused in future rounds. Even spending an extra card to bump a stack from 3 to 4 can be worth it. While these cards are almost always helpful, they’re more supportive than game-changing on their own.
*Then there are the cards that tend to perform well in almost any game. These usually work well even without combos and are often strong enough to keep in play for the entire game. When building a stack around a single card, these are typically the best foundation.

==== Thoughts on each type of tag's use/usefulness.====
<ol style="
margin:1em 0;
padding-inline-start:40px;
">

<li style="list-style-type:decimal;">'''Grid:''' every nation starts with a card that lets you gain one energy per power grid you have. If you don't have a good source of energy, keeping the option of having two power grids to produce 2 energy per card discarded is pretty good. You have some cards that add one power grid while doing something else, and they are nice to transition into cards that require 3 power grids. </li>
<li style="list-style-type:decimal;">'''Energy:''' the worst color in my opinion. There is one good card that lets you remove a building, then a car, then factories, but it requires some social icons (blue/purple). I would recommend you mostly ignore it. </li>
<li style="list-style-type:decimal;">'''Nuclear:''' most of the nuclear cards are an alternative way to produce energy. Most of them require two nuclear power to be good, so they are more situational. The nuclear project is very expensive for what it does. </li>
<li style="list-style-type:decimal;">'''Wind/Solar''' the main source of energy. When you begin the game, it's very nice to have a stack to produce at least 3 energy per card discarded, but you don't have to have that to get good energy generation. Cards that produce energy over time are free, so you don't have to discard cards to generate energy. </li>
<li style="list-style-type:decimal;">'''Regulation:''' best color in my opinion, the pink project is amazing, and the great cards can remove emissions, add resilience, or draw more cards, and they both synergize really well with that color. </li>
<li style="list-style-type:decimal;">'''Social:''' the primary focus for social resilience. Outside of that, it has lots of support, which is pretty nice, as many nations start with that tag. The community cards let you slowly gain the number of infrastructure resilience you want in most games while giving you one energy per round too. </li>
<li style="list-style-type:decimal;">'''Ecology:''' the primary focus for environmental resilience. Many cards can produce one tree per round, which are really good alone on a stack. Contrary to many other colors, it has some ability to reduce emissions that</li> don't make other cards less impactful. I really advise you to build one green stack if you can.
<li style="list-style-type:decimal;">'''Infrastructure::''' the primary focus for infrastructure resilience. They never shine, but they let you increase some resilience and remove emissions. </li>
<li style="list-style-type:decimal;">'''Incentive:''' USA starts with a stack that can draw cards depending on your coin, which isn't bad to play around. Outside of that, many cards are pretty cheap and require 2 to 3 gold. So it's not usually something you play around, but in the right circumstance, it can be pretty good. </li>
<li style="list-style-type:decimal;">'''Innovation:''' the orange stack focuses on two different things: managing the crisis and getting to see new cards. I would not advise that beginners use it, but as you became better at the game, having a stack that lets you see 6 or 9 extra cards every round to find what you need is really powerful. The crisis ones aren't that good in my opinion. </li>
<li style="list-style-type:decimal;">'''Geoengineering:''' Stratospheric Sulfur is amazing. Cloud Brightening is nice on a stack by itself. Ocean Fertilization requires ecological resilience or a stack of clouds. But overall, it's pretty good. I advise you to get used to other stuff first though.</li>
</ol>

'''Example Hand / Round'''

When looking at my hand, I would use any card that gives me at least 0.6 points:

<nowiki>*</nowiki> +1 point per energy produced I need ''(0.5 point if you lack one energy OR if you lack two and don't have the most dirty energy)''

<nowiki>*</nowiki> +0.5 per resilience you gain below what you will need next round (less if you don't have much time left, or more if you don't produce much carbon per round)

<nowiki>*</nowiki> +1 point per net carbon removed (i.e.: minus emissions, tree, sea, and (1 energy produced and 1 green dirty energy removed)

<nowiki>*</nowiki> global projects

<nowiki>*</nowiki> same number of points for what you would gain next round

<nowiki>*</nowiki> +0.5 per extra draw next round

<nowiki>*</nowiki> for experienced players +0.5 for each choice between 3 cards next round ''(note that doing that can make you gain 1 point this round thanks to the new card and 0.5 next round)''

If I don't have any of those, I would ask for help, look at global projects, or find creative ways to make it work (like using two cards to remove one factory every round. That gives 1+0.5 points with my ranking, so +0.75 per card). And if I still find nothing useful, I will keep my cards, hoping for a better round later. Having more cards gives more possibilities too, so it's very unlikely that you won't be able to do anything next round. It could happen if you go for energy (because you don't have a power grid or you covered your first stack, which I would only do for a good reason i.e. it gives you at least +1.5 points for one card or a secondary way to produce energy).

Don't hesitate to keep some cards at the end of the round. It's not ideal, but you may have more options to use them on your next round, as you draw 5 extra cards each round.

Having -1 energy isn't a big deal. I personally prefer early on to have -1 energy (so +1 star) but -1 emission if I'm sure I will be able to produce energy in my second round.

You sometimes have the option to go for a big reduction in energy to be at exactly -1 emission and end the game at the end of the round.

If reducing your carbon by 1 or 2 would make you not reach the next threshold, it's usually really good to try to do so. It's similar to making all players gain +1 on all resilience for the round. For that reason, you should try to produce at least -1 emission during the first round.

If you only gain 1 house per round, you shouldn't try to force trying to get energy. In the worst case scenario, you should gain 1 star at the end of the second round and 2 more at the end of the third one, which is totally manageable. You have lots of other cards that let you produce energy or remove energy demand. If you are playing USA or have a way to give a card that could produce energy, it's usually better to give it to someone else who gains +2 or +3 energy demand each round.

===Symbol Reference Guide / Terminology===
To help reduce jargon, this is a brief guide so players can use CTRL+F to find a term. A full list and visible symbols can be found at daybreak's website (it's on the first page of the downloadable PDF rule book as well).

====Card Tag Symbols - (Colorful Circles on the Cards)====
Symbols that appear on cards that are used as part of stacks are referred to as "tags" by the game.
{| class="wikitable sortable mw-collapsible" style="width:auto;" border="2"
|+Pictures of all tag symbols can be found here: https://www.daybreakgame.org/tag-descriptions
!'''Card Tag Term'''
!'''Color'''
!'''Symbol Description'''
!'''# Unique Cards in Deck'''
!'''# Cards in Deck'''
|-
|Grid
|Blue
|☨- Power Grid
|10
|
|-
|Energy
|Green
|🔌- Outlet Plug
|27
|
|-
|Nuclear
|Dark Blue
|⚛️ - Atom
|5
|
|-
|Wind
|Light Blue
|🌀 - Pinwheel
|8
|
|-
|Solar
|Yellow
|🟨⠿⠿ - Grid of Yellow Dots (Solar Panel)
|8
|
|-
|Regulation
|Pink
|📄 Piece of Paper
|23
|
|-
|Society
|Light Purple
| 🤝 - Two hands gripping
|25
|
|-
|Ecology
|Green
|🌱 - Plant / Sprout with Leaves
|18
|
|-
|Infrastructure
|Brown / Brick Red
|🌉 - Suspension Bridge
|17
|
|-
|Incentive
|Gold
|🥞💰 - Money / Stack of Coins with $
|20
|
|-
|Innovation
|Orange
| 💡 - Lightbulb with light emitting
|11
|
|-
|Geoengineering
|Gray
|☁️🔧 - Wrench in the middle of a cloud
|7
|
|}

====Resilience Symbols====
Symbols that are in the shape of a shield are known as resilience's. They are collected per person. They are used as part of local projects and to mitigate crises.

{| class="wikitable sortable mw-collapsible" style="width:auto;" border="2"
|+Pictures of resilience symbols can be found here: https://www.daybreakgame.org/resilience
!'''Resilience Symbol Term'''
!'''Color'''
!'''Shield Description'''
|-
|Social
|Purple
|🛡️ ✊ - Shield with a fist
|-
|Ecological
|Green
|🛡️ 🌿 - Shield with a leaf
|-
|Infrastructure
|Brown / Brick Red
|🛡️❌- Shield with two roads crisscrossed
|-
|Any Type / Wild
|Light Blue
|🛡️ ☀︎- Shield with an Asterisk
|}

====Emissions Tokens / Energy====
The following are shaped like rectangles with a symbol inside.
{| class="wikitable sortable mw-collapsible" style="width:auto;" border="2"
|+Pictures of emissions & dirty energy can be found here: [https://Www.daybreakgame.org/emissions Emissions sources]
!'''Emission Token / Energy Term'''
!'''Color'''
!'''Symbol Description'''
|-
|'''Transportation'''
|Gray
|[🚘] - Car
|-
|'''Industry'''
|Gray
|🏭] - Building with Smokestack
|-
|'''Agriculture'''
| Gray
|🐮 - Cow Head
|-
|'''Buildings'''
| Gray
|🏢 - Office Buildings
|-
|'''Fuel Extraction'''
| Gray
|🗼- Oil Rig
|-
|'''Waste'''
|Gray
|🗑️- Trash Can
|-
|'''Any Type / Wild Emission'''
|Gray
| [☀︎] - Rectangle with Asterisk
|-
|'''Dirty Energy'''
|Gray
| [⚡] - Gray Lightning bolt
|-
|'''Clean Energy'''
|Green
| [⚡] - Green Lightning bolt
|}

==== Other common symbols====
{| class="wikitable sortable mw-collapsible style=" border="2" width:auto;" "
|+
!'''Common Symbol Term'''
!'''Color'''
!'''Symbol Description'''
!'''Information'''
|-
|'''Energy Demand'''
| Blue / or Blue with Yellow windows
|🏠 - House (with +/- number)
| Number of energy needed to cover demand; cards will indicate if they are increasing or decreasing energy demand. A decrease means you need less energy that round.
|-
|'''Communities in Crisis / CIC Token'''
|Multicolored
|✿ 🧑‍🤝‍🧑👬🧍 - 5 people holding hands in a pentagon shape. Each person is a different color.
|Bad to have. Obtained by failing to meet energy demand at beginning of round or by a crisis card.
If you have 4-7 communities in crisis, you will draw 1 fewer card each round. If you have 8-11 communities in crisis you will draw 2 fewer cards.
If you obtain more CIC's, you lose and the game ends.
There are cards that remove CIC tokens.
|-
|'''Direct Air Capture'''
| Gray
|⚙️ - Fan symbol
|Similar to Trees and Oceans, Captures (sequesters) emissions to avoid being added to net carbon.. Only visible on BGA if added by a player through a card; will appear next to trees / oceans.
|-
|'''Tree Token'''
|Green
|🌲 - Pine Tree
|Captures (sequesters) emissions to avoid being added to net carbon.
|-
|'''Ocean Token'''
|Blue
|🌊 - Wave of Water
|Captures (sequesters) emissions to avoid being added to net carbon.
|-
|'''Carbon'''
|Grey/ Black Outlines
|🧊 - Grey/Black Cube
|Carbon (to add to net carbon).
|}

Tips thegang

2026-07-27T18:10:56Z

Romain672: adding paying attention to order postflop

''The following tips aren’t set-in-stone rules, but are meant to give you an idea of how communication works in this game. As a group, figure out for yourselves how you’d like to communicate best without discussing your hand.''

Do not be afraid to '''take chips away''' from other players. This is exactly how you communicate the quality of your own hand and help others to categorize you. The more the chips move, the more communication takes place.

Always evaluate the '''current state''', not how good it might still become.
'''1st Phase''': Having a pair from the start: take a high number (and higher than your first chip), otherwise evaluate the rank of your High Card.
'''From 2nd Phase''': If something was revealed in this phase that increases your rating, take a higher (or at least equally high) chip than in the previous round. This allows fellow players to draw conclusions about your specific card values.
Conversely: If nothing fitting your hand was revealed, take the same chip of the previous round, but adapt to others players choices.

== Introduction ==
This is a concise ''strategy guide'' for ''The Gang'' focused on **rank‑only** chip selection. It defines a simple, repeatable convention for mapping numbered chips to rank percentiles.

== Core conventions to adopt ==
* '''Establish a ranking convention.''' Map each chip number to a clear percentile bucket so everyone interprets chip choices the same way.
* '''Conservative default.''' On the pre‑flop stage, default to slightly conservative picks and only escalate when community cards materially change the actual hand strength.
* '''Controlled chip theft.''' Taking another player’s chip is the only legal private signal—use it to correct obvious misrankings, not to bluff.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.''' Pre‑flop picks are based on ranks only; suitedness and flush/straight potential are ignored for the initial ranking.
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking a chip quickly signals a stronger rank; taking time to pick a chip, or picking then returning a chip, signals a weaker rank.
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.''' Base your pre‑flop chip choice exclusively on the two ranks in your hand.

== Simple interpertation pre flop ==
When suits are ignored, here is what all chips initially have (you have the exact hand at the middle of the page):

*Treat any pocket pair as better than any other hand: 22>AK
* Suits has no value.
* Connectors (7&8 of diamonds) has no value.
* Don't put value on speculative hands.
* The median hand is around J8.

{| class="wikitable"
!Chips
!6 players
!5 players
!4 players
!3 players
|-
|6
|pairs / A
|
|
|
|-
|5
|A / K
|pairs / A
|
|
|-
|4
|K / Q
|K
|pairs / A
|
|-
|3
|J / T
|Q / J
|K / Q
|pairs / A / K
|-
|2
|9 / 8
|T / 9 / 8
|J / T / 9
|Q / J / T
|-
|1
|7
|7
|8 / 7
|9 / 8 / 7
|}
Note that if you play as group, you can play with any table of your choice, and simplify this table (putting all non kicker at the same chip) would be better for everyone. But the table here is to play with any player on bga which haven't read any table.

== Poker mindset ==
If you are coming from Poker, you really should change your mind on some things:

Colors has no value until you hit your flush. If you start putting value to them, others with a 97 hand will have no way to compare 96s & 98o.

Connectors has no value too else that become fastly confusing. Start by taking experience and know what you are doing before maybe putting very minor value to them.

Many top players put their pairs in the highest token possible: 22>AK. Note that it's possible too to put pairs as their real value pre flop (88=middle chip), but if you do that you must put yourself at the right place post flop.
== Pre flop advice ==
If you fight a lot for some tokens, the most important part is the first choice of every player. If someone started 3 and is fighting for 4, and everyone else started 4 or more, high chance they should be take the 1 instead.
== Post flop advices ==
When hitting a double pair or better fight for the highest token. After someone steal it twice/thrice from you re-evaluate the board to look for potential straight/flushes (note that some straight are impossible from the first chip choice). Then evaluate for the bottom double pair or high one.

When having a pocket hand pair pre flop higher than all value on the table, fight for the highest token.

When hitting top pair (the pair from the highest value on the table) take the highest token. You could insist once depending of first chip choice.

When hitting middle pair, take the second highest token if that's an increase from the first round. If it's the same value or below, wait for others choices. Note that it's possible that you took the highest token twice. On that case, others doesn't know you hit a pair, and you should take in consideration for future rounds.

When hitting bottom pair, wait for others choices, and then put yourself the lowest between those which improved.

When hitting nothing while I like taking a token 1 or 2 below my first chip if nobody react, though many people ask in chat for people to never do it and take instead the same token than the previous round. Your hand can only decreate in value with 2 pairs on the board or with 1 pair and goes from double pair to 'single pair' (read the third to last section for more informations).

When 3+ players improved post flop and the chips to take isn't obvious, you should first make sure everyone understand which players improved. Then, pay attention to anyone which show strength even once above bottom pair. Someone which got the chip 1 preflop and try once to be above someone else which hitted a pair mean they should got at least middle pair. At the end of the flop, if per example 2345 improved, and they finish 4635, we first got at least bottom pair for the player who got 4 preflop, at least middle pair for the players having 2&5 preflop, and at least top pair for the player having 3 preflop. If you are sure no one seem to have bottom pair since many players fighted for 5/6, then you can rank all of those one higher (bottom>middle, middle>top, top>above top pair). This can be important turn and river to compare yourself with others.

== Turn and River advices ==
That card start to be really situationnal.

If that new card open straight and flushes, nearly any hand could goes for the highest chip immediately. Even if you got a double pair you should be careful about fighting for this highest token. Take into consideration how many straight and flushes there is. If it's really few (1 or 2) then the player which hit those should insist a lot for the highest token. That mean with a slightly weaker hand (like double pair) you could try to insist for 6. On the contrary if there is lots of straight and flushes (4 or 9+), take a lower chip more easily.

If that new card is above all others cards a new pair most likely put yourself as the best or second best hand, so take a really high chip.

If that new card is around the same value of others, take an higher chip, and let others decide where they put yourself. They know which pair you got but you don't know which pair they got.

If that new card is below all others cards, put yourself as the higher chip between those which never improved.

Note that pocket pairs can rank weirdly.

Finally at the River, the nuts (highest possible hand) should insist a lot for the highest token since there is nothing to lose. Knowing that, the second best hand can do the same. The third best hand can do the same but show weakness once after the fight while still showing they want the best token. Going lower than that is much trickier, especially for flushes board.

== Correcting mistakes ==
If you or someone else made a mistake that can easily be confusing.

It can be corrected naturally by someone hitting a pair, or even rarely with two pockets pairs by someone else hitting a pair.

If it's obvious what is happening you could try to correct it immediately (post flop), especially if there was some fight pre flop.

But I would advise you to let everything goes as planned, and in the final turn, still take your normal chip if the river can be confusing, and after everyone is happy with their chip, fight for the potential mistake which happened earlier. That's because when doing that, it look like to others that you hit a pair, which is extremely confusing.

== Differents ways of stealing a chip ==
Let's assume you could want the chip above you. You have a lot of ways to convey information when stealing a chip (from strongest to weakest):

- '''stealing the chip one above the one you want, put it back on the table, and steal the chip you want:''' this is often after you took too much time to react: this steal is even stronger that the default one, because you said to that other player that you are coming from the lower end of the chip above.

- '''stealing the chip:''' that's the default move

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table and waiting:''' that way is the most neutral one. You just give the decision to the other player/assume they got more informations than you. Preflop, that's normally after a fight, and you give them one last chance to be below you, and then you take the other one. Alternatively, it could mean that you want more time to think about the situation. If after a while, you take the lower or highest chip that's again some information (neutral+ or neutral-)

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table, and immediately taking the lowest one:''' that one is the weakest one. Usually by doing that you ask that other to double check what happenned earlier/confirm they really want that token. Alternatively, you could have seen that something isn't right, and want to show it to the other player, and let them decide to correct it or not. Sometimes you hit a pair, showed it post flop, the turn come with the lowest card of the table and another player take your chip because they seem to have hit a pair, so you do it while not showing extra strength.

Outside of that situation you can:

- steal the token of two others players and take back your own token if you think something isn't right between them

- take the tokens per example of everyone which hitted a pair, to put them back on the table and ask everyone to choose again

- if something is really not right (like you took the highest chip pre flop, and someone else who hit a pair is sure you hitted a pair, and don't let you be under them), you can pick some tokens completely out of place. Per example if you are fighting for 3/4/5, you can take the 1, put it back, and take the 3. That's an extremely strong sign you didn't hit that pair because you will make players with chips 1&2 being confused, so it's for emergency only.

==High card promesse ==
High card promesse is a powerful convention which give information on your highest card preflop. Taking back the table at the start of the document:

{| class="wikitable"
!Chips
!6 players
!5 players
!4 players
!3 players
|-
|6
|pairs / A
|
|
|
|-
|5
|K
|pairs / A
|
|
|-
|4
|Q
|K
|pairs / A
|
|-
|3
|J / T
|Q / J
|K / Q
|pairs / A / K
|-
|2
|9 / 8
|T / 9 / 8
|J / T / 9
|Q / J / T
|-
|1
|7
|7
|8 / 7
|9 / 8 / 7
|}
That convention force every player to make their first chip pick being in the right range.

That let everyone deduce a lot more information about each other.

On the contrary, you could not play with that and instead put more value on probabilities:

==Full range and average hand pre-flop ==
This cheat sheet map recommended pre‑flop chips depending of the number of players. Use this at the table as a compact reference. Pairs are above all. All picks are '''rank‑only''' (no suits). Connector (7&8 of diamond) has no value.

''Note that even if the numbers are mathematiquely coherent, since pairs can often more easily be differenciated from A high, you could want to lower slightly the highest range. And the ranges shouldn't be uniform, the lower ranges should take more hands since there is an higher chance they doesn't matter (per example J2/J3/J4 are identical unless two of those kickers appear on the table).''

Finally, note that this sheet is only without context. It's great to know where you should put your hand initially. As soon as some player(s) take any chip(s), the value of that sheet fall pretty fast.

'''This sheet assume that there will be the same amount of players going for every chip''' (1326 possible hands)(22100 with 3 cards hand).
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!3 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|16.67%
|median 1 hand
|7/5
|T/4/2
|-
|33.33%
|between 1/2 chips
|9/8
|J/T/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 2 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|66.67%
|between 2/3 chips
|K/2
|A/7/2
|-
|83.33%
|median 3 hand
|A/5
|2/2/7
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!4 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|12,5%
|median 1 hand
|7/2
|9/6/4
|-
|25%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/7
|J/4/3
|-
|37.5%
|median 2 hand
|T/5
|Q/6/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 2/3 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|62,5%
|median 3 hand
|Q/8
|K/Q/7
|-
|75%
|between 3/4 chips
|K/9
|A/J/4
|-
|87,5%
|median 4 hand
|A/8
|5/5/T
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!5 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|T%
|median 1 hand
|6/4
|8/7/6
|-
|20%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/3
|T/7/5
|-
|30%
|median 2 hand
|9/5
|J/8/6
|-
|40%
|between 2/3 chips
|T/7
|Q/8/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 3 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|60%
|between 3/4 chips
|Q/6
|K/J/8
|-
|70%
|median 4 hand
|K/5
|A/9/2
|-
|80%
|between 4/5 chips
|A/2
|A/K/3
|-
|90%
|median 5 hand
|A/T
|7/7/9
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!6 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|8,33%
|median 1 hand
|6/2
|8/6/4
|-
|16,67%
|between 1/2 chips
|7/5
|T/4/2
|-
|25%
|median 2 hand
|8/7
|J/4/3
|-
|33,33%
|between 2/3 chips
|9/8
|J/T/5
|-
|41,67%
|median 3 hand
|T/8
|Q/9/4
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 3/4 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|58,33%
|median 4 hand
|Q/5
|K/J/2
|-
|66,67%
|between 4/5 chips
|K/2
|A/7/2
|-
|75%
|median 5 hand
|K/9
|A/J/4
|-
|83,33%
|between 5/6 chips
|A/5
|2/2/7
|-
|91,67%
|median 6 hand
|A/J
|8/8/Q
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}

*''There was before another column which put an equal amount of combinaisons for every chip, but the 3 cards hand with it was way too out of place: A62 being median hand, and 337 being between chip 4 and 5 at 6 players was so unnatural.''

== Double pairs on the table (and single pair) ==
When there is two pairs on the table, and you hit nothing, only your highest card count.

That mean per example with a board JJ447, and you having A6, you can play that hand as if it was A2. That mean that if there was a fight earlier and you suspect someone else having better than you, you can play your hand as if it was A2 instead of A6. If that player got A8 or KQ, they could react differently.

In that same example if you got 62, you can take the lowest chip even if you highly suspect someone else has lower than you, because your hand will be JJ447 anyway.

But the most important thing is '''pocket pairs'''. If you got 22, and the second 4 arrived in the river, then '''while your hand was probably the best one pre flop''', still was good post flop and after the turn, '''it became the worst one after the river''' because you don't have a triple pair, you have the lowest possible hand: JJ447. That mean that an 82 which probably took 1 or 2 pre flop is now beating you. And so you should fight for the 1 and insist a lot since it's often not obvious for others players.

If you didn't understood that, you take your best 5 cards to create your hand. That mean that AJ99752 has the same value than AJ99743: they both use AJ997 to do their best hand.

If there is no pair on the board, and you have two pairs, then you should be high. When an unrelated pair come in the flop, now everyone which previously got one pair got the same combinaison than you (or 3 of a kind). That mean that now you should rank yourself as the best of your two pairs, which could mean going down even if others didn't improved.

== 4 cards of the same color on the table ==
'Obviously' on that kind of board, what you should be doing shift completely. Per example with 4 diamonds, we now ask you to rank yourself from the highest diamond card to the lowest diamond card. A hand with an Ace of spade and a 2 of diamond is now weaker than a 4 of spade and a 3 of diamond.

You first should put attention to which player potentially have 2 diamonds on their hand, it's more likely than their highest diamond card is high.

And then pay attention to potential flush house and straight, and good luck, it's like a situational pre flop situation.

If you hit nothing, don't hesitate to goes really low.
== Very strong connectors: advanced ==
We arrived at the end of the guide, so let's have some fun and talk again of connectors which got normally no value.

KQ is normally worst than A2, but there is lots of value of having various hand in all chips (that's why putting pairs not at the highest amount preflop have a really positive aspect too).

So if you play KQ as if you got A7, you will end up by having a KQ between two others hands with aces. When on the flop arrive one card between A, K, Q, and the low value of ace, then the problem will be resolved, and one hand will be far stronger.

The great upside is that when you compare KQ with KJ or KT, KQ will be a lot overvalued, so there will be no hesitation on which player got the better hand.

Though, on the rares cases where you got none of those cards in the table, you will need to correct your position post river, which is a great downside too.

Finally, if both A and K come during the flop, again I would advise to correct post river, that's pretty much the same problem.

Now, if you start doing the same with KJ, you lose a lot of the value, because now comparing KQ and KJ will be really difficult.

I though about doing the same with A2 but the opposing way, but the problem with that is that if a flop J62 or J92 come, others would likely put yourself into a hand K6 or K9 which is pretty bad. You have much less control of middle and bottom pair compared to top pair.

About others very strong connectors (T9, JT, QJ) I'm fine with playing them slightly higher (J5, Q5, K5). But the difference is far lower: you don't want to give them too much value and make others think you regularly hit a different pair post flop.

Tips yatzy

2026-07-22T08:48:07Z

Romain672: Added a video, now the article could want a mix of both sections

General tips and statistics.

For the top half, the 35pt bonus is really important. To earn that, you need at least 3 of a kind for 1 through 6, for a total of 63.

For the bottom half, Three/Four of a Kind and Chance, you want to score better than the average of 5 dice, which is anything over 17 total.

As for the Full House and Straights, fish for those early and use the failed attempts to fill in your top half.

For serious players, there is [http://www-set.win.tue.nl/~wstomv/misc/yahtzee/osyp.php an online application] that allows you to compare your moves with those of a computer playing optimally (i.e. making plays that are most likely to score you the highest overall, in the largest number of possible scenarios). Try using it and see if you can improve your thinking.

[http://www-set.win.tue.nl/~wstomv/misc/yahtzee/yptd.php Another app on that same website] lets you play through an entire game of Yahtzee and get all of it analyzed afterwards. Here are [http://www-set.win.tue.nl/~wstomv/misc/yahtzee/instr-ptd.html the instructions on how to read the analysis].

The game of Yahtzee will challenge the player to choose between chasing similar dice to score the grand prize ( ‘Yahtzee’ is ‘five-of-a-kind’ ) versus a straight where any duplicates are re-rolled to chase the straight. To get Yahtzee means you’ll always need to chase duplicate dice at the expense of a straight. This ‘Yahtzee 1st and foremost’ strategy dictates that you only chase a straight when you get an inside straight (four die, 2,3,4,5) on your initial roll, otherwise you re-roll any dice not duplicated to score a ‘Yahtzee’.

The Yahtzee variant ‘Yams’ introduces an alternative scoring sheet with a few changes. For instance it drops the ‘chance’, ‘three-a-kind', and adds a ‘Rigole’ which is four-of-a-kind plus one from the opposite die face (1 for sixes, 2 for fives, 3 for fours, etc).

=== Ballpark Figures's video ===
Here is a summary of the Ballpark Figures's video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DOgb5wrb7mM

Think about the game with a different score system:

+4 for each extra Yahtzee

+2 for the top bonus, large straight, Yahtzee

+1 for 3 of a kind, 4 of a kind, full house, and small straight

'''Small Straight, 3 of a kind, 4 of a kind'''

Small straight has a value of nearly 30 points turn 1 to 10.

Is around 28 points turn 11, around 25 points turn 12, and around 20 points turn 13.

That mean that leaving it until the end if you never got a bad turn is very valuable. But once you reach turn 10, keeping it more make you lose some points, but it's still fine.

It's the same thing for 3 of a kind.

For 4 of a kind, it has a much lower initial value (rarer to get it), so the points lost are similar.

'''Large Straight'''

Large straight on the other hand, got a value starting around 32 points turn 1, and slowly goes down by 1 every two turns. Then it start going much lower pretty fast. Reaching around 23 turn 10, and 12 turn 13.

Often goes for it if small straight or chance is still open. Else usually only do it if you can 0 something else.

'''Full house'''

Full house decrease faster, from 22 points to the start, they goes to 20 points turn 7, 17 points turn 10, and 12 points turn 13.

'''Top bonus'''

You get in average 23.8 points for the top bonus.

Filling first four 1/2/3/4/5/6 will make you win 24.5/27.4/29.2/30.3/31.1/31.9 points. So that can be a jump of 8 extra points.

On the contrary filling first one 1/2/3/4/5/6 will make you win 18.5/15.2/10.3/5.4/1.8/0.3. You can see that you will lose 5 points with one 1 and 8 points with one 2 first [note that starting with those make you more likely to forget that top bonus and focus on other bonus first, so the loss should be slightly lower]. On those cases it's often better to put 0 on four of a kind or Yahtzee instead.

'''First turn'''

The best first turn is Yahtzee (320.8), then four Sixies (268.2), then four fives (264.5), large straight (261.5), four fours (261.0), four threes (257.4), 3 of a kind [55666] (254.0), full house [11122] (253.9).

You should never start with two or fewers 4/5/6, or one 2/3/4/5/6, never fill 4 of a kind, and rarely score 3 of a kind.

The worst start is where you fill chance with 23446 for 239.0 points.

Tips thegang

2026-07-20T10:47:00Z

Romain672: /* Simple interpertation pre flop */ in between modifications while discussing privately

''The following tips aren’t set-in-stone rules, but are meant to give you an idea of how communication works in this game. As a group, figure out for yourselves how you’d like to communicate best without discussing your hand.''

Do not be afraid to '''take chips away''' from other players. This is exactly how you communicate the quality of your own hand and help others to categorize you. The more the chips move, the more communication takes place.

Always evaluate the '''current state''', not how good it might still become.
'''1st Phase''': Having a pair from the start: take a high number (and higher than your first chip), otherwise evaluate the rank of your High Card.
'''From 2nd Phase''': If something was revealed in this phase that increases your rating, take a higher (or at least equally high) chip than in the previous round. This allows fellow players to draw conclusions about your specific card values.
Conversely: If nothing fitting your hand was revealed, take the same chip of the previous round, but adapt to others players choices.

== Introduction ==
This is a concise ''strategy guide'' for ''The Gang'' focused on **rank‑only** chip selection. It defines a simple, repeatable convention for mapping numbered chips to rank percentiles.

== Core conventions to adopt ==
* '''Establish a ranking convention.''' Map each chip number to a clear percentile bucket so everyone interprets chip choices the same way.
* '''Conservative default.''' On the pre‑flop stage, default to slightly conservative picks and only escalate when community cards materially change the actual hand strength.
* '''Controlled chip theft.''' Taking another player’s chip is the only legal private signal—use it to correct obvious misrankings, not to bluff.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.''' Pre‑flop picks are based on ranks only; suitedness and flush/straight potential are ignored for the initial ranking.
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking a chip quickly signals a stronger rank; taking time to pick a chip, or picking then returning a chip, signals a weaker rank.
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.''' Base your pre‑flop chip choice exclusively on the two ranks in your hand.

== Simple interpertation pre flop ==
When suits are ignored, here is what all chips initially have (you have the exact hand at the middle of the page):

*Treat any pocket pair as better than any other hand: 22>AK
* Suits has no value.
* Connectors (7&8 of diamonds) has no value.
* Don't put value on speculative hands.
* The median hand is around J8.

{| class="wikitable"
!Chips
!6 players
!5 players
!4 players
!3 players
|-
|6
|pairs / A
|
|
|
|-
|5
|A / K
|pairs / A
|
|
|-
|4
|K / Q
|K
|pairs / A
|
|-
|3
|J / T
|Q / J
|K / Q
|pairs / A / K
|-
|2
|9 / 8
|T / 9 / 8
|J / T / 9
|Q / J / T
|-
|1
|7
|7
|8 / 7
|9 / 8 / 7
|}
Note that if you play as group, you can play with any table of your choice, and simplify this table (putting all non kicker at the same chip) would be better for everyone. But the table here is to play with any player on bga which haven't read any table.

== Poker mindset ==
If you are coming from Poker, you really should change your mind on some things:

Colors has no value until you hit your flush. If you start putting value to them, others with a 97 hand will have no way to compare 96s & 98o.

Connectors has no value too else that become fastly confusing. Start by taking experience and know what you are doing before maybe putting very minor value to them.

Many top players put their pairs in the highest token possible: 22>AK. Note that it's possible too to put pairs as their real value pre flop (88=middle chip), but if you do that you must put yourself at the right place post flop.
== Pre flop advice ==
If you fight a lot for some tokens, the most important part is the first choice of every player. If someone started 3 and is fighting for 4, and everyone else started 4 or more, high chance they should be take the 1 instead.
== Post flop advices ==
When hitting a double pair or better fight for the highest token. After someone steal it twice/thrice from you re-evaluate the board to look for potential straight/flushes (note that some straight are impossible from the first chip choice). Then evaluate for the bottom double pair or high one.

When having a pocket hand pair pre flop higher than all value on the table, fight for the highest token.

When hitting top pair (the pair from the highest value on the table) take the highest token. You could insist once depending of first chip choice.

When hitting middle pair, take the second highest token if that's an increase from the first round. If it's the same value or below, wait for others choices. Note that it's possible that you took the highest token twice. On that case, others doesn't know you hit a pair, and you should take in consideration for future rounds.

When hitting bottom pair, wait for others choices, and then put yourself the lowest between those which improved.

When hitting nothing while I like taking a token 1 or 2 below my first chip if nobody react, though many people ask in chat for people to never do it and take instead the same token than the previous round. Your hand can only decreate in value with 2 pairs on the board or with 1 pair and goes from double pair to 'single pair' (read the third to last section for more informations).

== Turn and River advices ==
That card start to be really situationnal.

If that new card open straight and flushes, nearly any hand could goes for the highest chip immediately. Even if you got a double pair you should be careful about fighting for this highest token. Take into consideration how many straight and flushes there is. If it's really few (1 or 2) then the player which hit those should insist a lot for the highest token. That mean with a slightly weaker hand (like double pair) you could try to insist for 6. On the contrary if there is lots of straight and flushes (4 or 9+), take a lower chip more easily.

If that new card is above all others cards a new pair most likely put yourself as the best or second best hand, so take a really high chip.

If that new card is around the same value of others, take an higher chip, and let others decide where they put yourself. They know which pair you got but you don't know which pair they got.

If that new card is below all others cards, put yourself as the higher chip between those which never improved.

Note that pocket pairs can rank weirdly.

Finally at the River, the nuts (highest possible hand) should insist a lot for the highest token since there is nothing to lose. Knowing that, the second best hand can do the same. The third best hand can do the same but show weakness once after the fight while still showing they want the best token. Going lower than that is much trickier, especially for flushes board.

== Correcting mistakes ==
If you or someone else made a mistake that can easily be confusing.

It can be corrected naturally by someone hitting a pair, or even rarely with two pockets pairs by someone else hitting a pair.

If it's obvious what is happening you could try to correct it immediately (post flop), especially if there was some fight pre flop.

But I would advise you to let everything goes as planned, and in the final turn, still take your normal chip if the river can be confusing, and after everyone is happy with their chip, fight for the potential mistake which happened earlier. That's because when doing that, it look like to others that you hit a pair, which is extremely confusing.

== Differents ways of stealing a chip ==
Let's assume you could want the chip above you. You have a lot of ways to convey information when stealing a chip (from strongest to weakest):

- '''stealing the chip one above the one you want, put it back on the table, and steal the chip you want:''' this is often after you took too much time to react: this steal is even stronger that the default one, because you said to that other player that you are coming from the lower end of the chip above.

- '''stealing the chip:''' that's the default move

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table and waiting:''' that way is the most neutral one. You just give the decision to the other player/assume they got more informations than you. Preflop, that's normally after a fight, and you give them one last chance to be below you, and then you take the other one. Alternatively, it could mean that you want more time to think about the situation. If after a while, you take the lower or highest chip that's again some information (neutral+ or neutral-)

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table, and immediately taking the lowest one:''' that one is the weakest one. Usually by doing that you ask that other to double check what happenned earlier/confirm they really want that token. Alternatively, you could have seen that something isn't right, and want to show it to the other player, and let them decide to correct it or not. Sometimes you hit a pair, showed it post flop, the turn come with the lowest card of the table and another player take your chip because they seem to have hit a pair, so you do it while not showing extra strength.

Outside of that situation you can:

- steal the token of two others players and take back your own token if you think something isn't right between them

- take the tokens per example of everyone which hitted a pair, to put them back on the table and ask everyone to choose again

- if something is really not right (like you took the highest chip pre flop, and someone else who hit a pair is sure you hitted a pair, and don't let you be under them), you can pick some tokens completely out of place. Per example if you are fighting for 3/4/5, you can take the 1, put it back, and take the 3. That's an extremely strong sign you didn't hit that pair because you will make players with chips 1&2 being confused, so it's for emergency only.

==High card promesse ==
High card promesse is a powerful convention which give information on your highest card preflop. Taking back the table at the start of the document:

{| class="wikitable"
!Chips
!6 players
!5 players
!4 players
!3 players
|-
|6
|pairs / A
|
|
|
|-
|5
|K
|pairs / A
|
|
|-
|4
|Q
|K
|pairs / A
|
|-
|3
|J / T
|Q / J
|K / Q
|pairs / A / K
|-
|2
|9 / 8
|T / 9 / 8
|J / T / 9
|Q / J / T
|-
|1
|7
|7
|8 / 7
|9 / 8 / 7
|}
That convention force every player to make their first chip pick being in the right range.

That let everyone deduce a lot more information about each other.

On the contrary, you could not play with that and instead put more value on probabilities:

==Full range and average hand pre-flop ==
This cheat sheet map recommended pre‑flop chips depending of the number of players. Use this at the table as a compact reference. Pairs are above all. All picks are '''rank‑only''' (no suits). Connector (7&8 of diamond) has no value.

''Note that even if the numbers are mathematiquely coherent, since pairs can often more easily be differenciated from A high, you could want to lower slightly the highest range. And the ranges shouldn't be uniform, the lower ranges should take more hands since there is an higher chance they doesn't matter (per example J2/J3/J4 are identical unless two of those kickers appear on the table).''

Finally, note that this sheet is only without context. It's great to know where you should put your hand initially. As soon as some player(s) take any chip(s), the value of that sheet fall pretty fast.

'''This sheet assume that there will be the same amount of players going for every chip''' (1326 possible hands)(22100 with 3 cards hand).
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!3 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|16.67%
|median 1 hand
|7/5
|T/4/2
|-
|33.33%
|between 1/2 chips
|9/8
|J/T/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 2 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|66.67%
|between 2/3 chips
|K/2
|A/7/2
|-
|83.33%
|median 3 hand
|A/5
|2/2/7
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!4 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|12,5%
|median 1 hand
|7/2
|9/6/4
|-
|25%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/7
|J/4/3
|-
|37.5%
|median 2 hand
|T/5
|Q/6/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 2/3 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|62,5%
|median 3 hand
|Q/8
|K/Q/7
|-
|75%
|between 3/4 chips
|K/9
|A/J/4
|-
|87,5%
|median 4 hand
|A/8
|5/5/T
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!5 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|T%
|median 1 hand
|6/4
|8/7/6
|-
|20%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/3
|T/7/5
|-
|30%
|median 2 hand
|9/5
|J/8/6
|-
|40%
|between 2/3 chips
|T/7
|Q/8/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 3 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|60%
|between 3/4 chips
|Q/6
|K/J/8
|-
|70%
|median 4 hand
|K/5
|A/9/2
|-
|80%
|between 4/5 chips
|A/2
|A/K/3
|-
|90%
|median 5 hand
|A/T
|7/7/9
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!6 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|8,33%
|median 1 hand
|6/2
|8/6/4
|-
|16,67%
|between 1/2 chips
|7/5
|T/4/2
|-
|25%
|median 2 hand
|8/7
|J/4/3
|-
|33,33%
|between 2/3 chips
|9/8
|J/T/5
|-
|41,67%
|median 3 hand
|T/8
|Q/9/4
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 3/4 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|58,33%
|median 4 hand
|Q/5
|K/J/2
|-
|66,67%
|between 4/5 chips
|K/2
|A/7/2
|-
|75%
|median 5 hand
|K/9
|A/J/4
|-
|83,33%
|between 5/6 chips
|A/5
|2/2/7
|-
|91,67%
|median 6 hand
|A/J
|8/8/Q
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}

*''There was before another column which put an equal amount of combinaisons for every chip, but the 3 cards hand with it was way too out of place: A62 being median hand, and 337 being between chip 4 and 5 at 6 players was so unnatural.''

== Double pairs on the table (and single pair) ==
When there is two pairs on the table, and you hit nothing, only your highest card count.

That mean per example with a board JJ447, and you having A6, you can play that hand as if it was A2. That mean that if there was a fight earlier and you suspect someone else having better than you, you can play your hand as if it was A2 instead of A6. If that player got A8 or KQ, they could react differently.

In that same example if you got 62, you can take the lowest chip even if you highly suspect someone else has lower than you, because your hand will be JJ447 anyway.

But the most important thing is '''pocket pairs'''. If you got 22, and the second 4 arrived in the river, then '''while your hand was probably the best one pre flop''', still was good post flop and after the turn, '''it became the worst one after the river''' because you don't have a triple pair, you have the lowest possible hand: JJ447. That mean that an 82 which probably took 1 or 2 pre flop is now beating you. And so you should fight for the 1 and insist a lot since it's often not obvious for others players.

If you didn't understood that, you take your best 5 cards to create your hand. That mean that AJ99752 has the same value than AJ99743: they both use AJ997 to do their best hand.

If there is no pair on the board, and you have two pairs, then you should be high. When an unrelated pair come in the flop, now everyone which previously got one pair got the same combinaison than you (or 3 of a kind). That mean that now you should rank yourself as the best of your two pairs, which could mean going down even if others didn't improved.

== 4 cards of the same color on the table ==
'Obviously' on that kind of board, what you should be doing shift completely. Per example with 4 diamonds, we now ask you to rank yourself from the highest diamond card to the lowest diamond card. A hand with an Ace of spade and a 2 of diamond is now weaker than a 4 of spade and a 3 of diamond.

You first should put attention to which player potentially have 2 diamonds on their hand, it's more likely than their highest diamond card is high.

And then pay attention to potential flush house and straight, and good luck, it's like a situational pre flop situation.

If you hit nothing, don't hesitate to goes really low.
== Very strong connectors: advanced ==
We arrived at the end of the guide, so let's have some fun and talk again of connectors which got normally no value.

KQ is normally worst than A2, but there is lots of value of having various hand in all chips (that's why putting pairs not at the highest amount preflop have a really positive aspect too).

So if you play KQ as if you got A7, you will end up by having a KQ between two others hands with aces. When on the flop arrive one card between A, K, Q, and the low value of ace, then the problem will be resolved, and one hand will be far stronger.

The great upside is that when you compare KQ with KJ or KT, KQ will be a lot overvalued, so there will be no hesitation on which player got the better hand.

Though, on the rares cases where you got none of those cards in the table, you will need to correct your position post river, which is a great downside too.

Finally, if both A and K come during the flop, again I would advise to correct post river, that's pretty much the same problem.

Now, if you start doing the same with KJ, you lose a lot of the value, because now comparing KQ and KJ will be really difficult.

I though about doing the same with A2 but the opposing way, but the problem with that is that if a flop J62 or J92 come, others would likely put yourself into a hand K6 or K9 which is pretty bad. You have much less control of middle and bottom pair compared to top pair.

About others very strong connectors (T9, JT, QJ) I'm fine with playing them slightly higher (J5, Q5, K5). But the difference is far lower: you don't want to give them too much value and make others think you regularly hit a different pair post flop.

Tips thegang

2026-06-19T14:27:10Z

Romain672: added 'high card promesse'

''The following tips aren’t set-in-stone rules, but are meant to give you an idea of how communication works in this game. As a group, figure out for yourselves how you’d like to communicate best without discussing your hand.''

Do not be afraid to '''take chips away''' from other players. This is exactly how you communicate the quality of your own hand and help others to categorize you. The more the chips move, the more communication takes place.

Always evaluate the '''current state''', not how good it might still become.
'''1st Phase''': Having a pair from the start: take a high number (and higher than your first chip), otherwise evaluate the rank of your High Card.
'''From 2nd Phase''': If something was revealed in this phase that increases your rating, take a higher (or at least equally high) chip than in the previous round. This allows fellow players to draw conclusions about your specific card values.
Conversely: If nothing fitting your hand was revealed, take the same chip of the previous round, but adapt to others players choices.

== Introduction ==
This is a concise ''strategy guide'' for ''The Gang'' focused on **rank‑only** chip selection. It defines a simple, repeatable convention for mapping numbered chips to rank percentiles.

== Core conventions to adopt ==
* '''Establish a ranking convention.''' Map each chip number to a clear percentile bucket so everyone interprets chip choices the same way.
* '''Conservative default.''' On the pre‑flop stage, default to slightly conservative picks and only escalate when community cards materially change the actual hand strength.
* '''Controlled chip theft.''' Taking another player’s chip is the only legal private signal—use it to correct obvious misrankings, not to bluff.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.''' Pre‑flop picks are based on ranks only; suitedness and flush/straight potential are ignored for the initial ranking.
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking a chip quickly signals a stronger rank; taking time to pick a chip, or picking then returning a chip, signals a weaker rank.
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.''' Base your pre‑flop chip choice exclusively on the two ranks in your hand.

== Simple interpertation pre flop ==
When suits are ignored, here is what all chips initially have (you have the exact hand at the middle of the page):

*Treat any pocket pair as better than any other hand: 22>AK
* Suits has no value.
* Connectors (7&8 of diamonds) has no value.
* Don't put value on speculative hands.
* The median hand is around J8.

{| class="wikitable"
!Chips
!6 players
!5 players
!4 players
!3 players
|-
|6
|pairs / AK ~ A5
|
|
|
|-
|5
|K
|pairs / A
|
|
|-
|4
|Q
|K
|pairs / A
|
|-
|3
|J8 ~ J2 / T
|Q8 ~ Q2 / J
|K / Q
|pairs / A / K
|-
|2
|9 / 8
|T / 9 / 8
|J / T / 9
|Q / J / T
|-
|1
|7
|7
|8 / 7
|9 / 8 / 7
|}
The few missing hands are depending of conventions: you could play them slowly preflop, and then show you are between two chips.

Note that if you play as group, you can play with any table of your choice, and simplify this table (putting all non kicker at the same chip) would be better for everyone. But the table here is to play with any player on bga which haven't read any table.

== Poker mindset ==
If you are coming from Poker, you really should change your mind on some things:

Colors has no value until you hit your flush. If you start putting value to them, others with a 97 hand will have no way to compare 96s & 98o.

Connectors has no value too else that become fastly confusing. Start by taking experience and know what you are doing before maybe putting very minor value to them.

Many top players put their pairs in the highest token possible: 22>AK. Note that it's possible too to put pairs as their real value pre flop (88=middle chip), but if you do that you must put yourself at the right place post flop.
== Pre flop advice ==
If you fight a lot for some tokens, the most important part is the first choice of every player. If someone started 3 and is fighting for 4, and everyone else started 4 or more, high chance they should be take the 1 instead.
== Post flop advices ==
When hitting a double pair or better fight for the highest token. After someone steal it twice/thrice from you re-evaluate the board to look for potential straight/flushes (note that some straight are impossible from the first chip choice). Then evaluate for the bottom double pair or high one.

When having a pocket hand pair pre flop higher than all value on the table, fight for the highest token.

When hitting top pair (the pair from the highest value on the table) take the highest token. You could insist once depending of first chip choice.

When hitting middle pair, take the second highest token if that's an increase from the first round. If it's the same value or below, wait for others choices. Note that it's possible that you took the highest token twice. On that case, others doesn't know you hit a pair, and you should take in consideration for future rounds.

When hitting bottom pair, wait for others choices, and then put yourself the lowest between those which improved.

When hitting nothing while I like taking a token 1 or 2 below my first chip if nobody react, though many people ask in chat for people to never do it and take instead the same token than the previous round. Your hand can only decreate in value with 2 pairs on the board or with 1 pair and goes from double pair to 'single pair' (read the third to last section for more informations).

== Turn and River advices ==
That card start to be really situationnal.

If that new card open straight and flushes, nearly any hand could goes for the highest chip immediately. Even if you got a double pair you should be careful about fighting for this highest token. Take into consideration how many straight and flushes there is. If it's really few (1 or 2) then the player which hit those should insist a lot for the highest token. That mean with a slightly weaker hand (like double pair) you could try to insist for 6. On the contrary if there is lots of straight and flushes (4 or 9+), take a lower chip more easily.

If that new card is above all others cards a new pair most likely put yourself as the best or second best hand, so take a really high chip.

If that new card is around the same value of others, take an higher chip, and let others decide where they put yourself. They know which pair you got but you don't know which pair they got.

If that new card is below all others cards, put yourself as the higher chip between those which never improved.

Note that pocket pairs can rank weirdly.

Finally at the River, the nuts (highest possible hand) should insist a lot for the highest token since there is nothing to lose. Knowing that, the second best hand can do the same. The third best hand can do the same but show weakness once after the fight while still showing they want the best token. Going lower than that is much trickier, especially for flushes board.

== Correcting mistakes ==
If you or someone else made a mistake that can easily be confusing.

It can be corrected naturally by someone hitting a pair, or even rarely with two pockets pairs by someone else hitting a pair.

If it's obvious what is happening you could try to correct it immediately (post flop), especially if there was some fight pre flop.

But I would advise you to let everything goes as planned, and in the final turn, still take your normal chip if the river can be confusing, and after everyone is happy with their chip, fight for the potential mistake which happened earlier. That's because when doing that, it look like to others that you hit a pair, which is extremely confusing.

== Differents ways of stealing a chip ==
Let's assume you could want the chip above you. You have a lot of ways to convey information when stealing a chip (from strongest to weakest):

- '''stealing the chip one above the one you want, put it back on the table, and steal the chip you want:''' this is often after you took too much time to react: this steal is even stronger that the default one, because you said to that other player that you are coming from the lower end of the chip above.

- '''stealing the chip:''' that's the default move

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table and waiting:''' that way is the most neutral one. You just give the decision to the other player/assume they got more informations than you. Preflop, that's normally after a fight, and you give them one last chance to be below you, and then you take the other one. Alternatively, it could mean that you want more time to think about the situation. If after a while, you take the lower or highest chip that's again some information (neutral+ or neutral-)

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table, and immediately taking the lowest one:''' that one is the weakest one. Usually by doing that you ask that other to double check what happenned earlier/confirm they really want that token. Alternatively, you could have seen that something isn't right, and want to show it to the other player, and let them decide to correct it or not. Sometimes you hit a pair, showed it post flop, the turn come with the lowest card of the table and another player take your chip because they seem to have hit a pair, so you do it while not showing extra strength.

Outside of that situation you can:

- steal the token of two others players and take back your own token if you think something isn't right between them

- take the tokens per example of everyone which hitted a pair, to put them back on the table and ask everyone to choose again

- if something is really not right (like you took the highest chip pre flop, and someone else who hit a pair is sure you hitted a pair, and don't let you be under them), you can pick some tokens completely out of place. Per example if you are fighting for 3/4/5, you can take the 1, put it back, and take the 3. That's an extremely strong sign you didn't hit that pair because you will make players with chips 1&2 being confused, so it's for emergency only.

==High card promesse ==
High card promesse is a powerful convention which give information on your highest card preflop. Taking back the table at the start of the document:

{| class="wikitable"
!Chips
!6 players
!5 players
!4 players
!3 players
|-
|6
|pairs / A
|
|
|
|-
|5
|K
|pairs / A
|
|
|-
|4
|Q
|K
|pairs / A
|
|-
|3
|J / T
|Q / J
|K / Q
|pairs / A / K
|-
|2
|9 / 8
|T / 9 / 8
|J / T / 9
|Q / J / T
|-
|1
|7
|7
|8 / 7
|9 / 8 / 7
|}
That convention force every player to make their first chip pick being in the right range.

That let everyone deduce a lot more information about each other.

On the contrary, you could not play with that and instead put more value on probabilities:

==Full range and average hand pre-flop ==
This cheat sheet map recommended pre‑flop chips depending of the number of players. Use this at the table as a compact reference. Pairs are above all. All picks are '''rank‑only''' (no suits). Connector (7&8 of diamond) has no value.

''Note that even if the numbers are mathematiquely coherent, since pairs can often more easily be differenciated from A high, you could want to lower slightly the highest range. And the ranges shouldn't be uniform, the lower ranges should take more hands since there is an higher chance they doesn't matter (per example J2/J3/J4 are identical unless two of those kickers appear on the table).''

Finally, note that this sheet is only without context. It's great to know where you should put your hand initially. As soon as some player(s) take any chip(s), the value of that sheet fall pretty fast.

'''This sheet assume that there will be the same amount of players going for every chip''' (1326 possible hands)(22100 with 3 cards hand).
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!3 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|16.67%
|median 1 hand
|7/5
|T/4/2
|-
|33.33%
|between 1/2 chips
|9/8
|J/T/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 2 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|66.67%
|between 2/3 chips
|K/2
|A/7/2
|-
|83.33%
|median 3 hand
|A/5
|2/2/7
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!4 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|12,5%
|median 1 hand
|7/2
|9/6/4
|-
|25%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/7
|J/4/3
|-
|37.5%
|median 2 hand
|T/5
|Q/6/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 2/3 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|62,5%
|median 3 hand
|Q/8
|K/Q/7
|-
|75%
|between 3/4 chips
|K/9
|A/J/4
|-
|87,5%
|median 4 hand
|A/8
|5/5/T
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!5 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|T%
|median 1 hand
|6/4
|8/7/6
|-
|20%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/3
|T/7/5
|-
|30%
|median 2 hand
|9/5
|J/8/6
|-
|40%
|between 2/3 chips
|T/7
|Q/8/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 3 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|60%
|between 3/4 chips
|Q/6
|K/J/8
|-
|70%
|median 4 hand
|K/5
|A/9/2
|-
|80%
|between 4/5 chips
|A/2
|A/K/3
|-
|90%
|median 5 hand
|A/T
|7/7/9
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!6 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|8,33%
|median 1 hand
|6/2
|8/6/4
|-
|16,67%
|between 1/2 chips
|7/5
|T/4/2
|-
|25%
|median 2 hand
|8/7
|J/4/3
|-
|33,33%
|between 2/3 chips
|9/8
|J/T/5
|-
|41,67%
|median 3 hand
|T/8
|Q/9/4
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 3/4 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|58,33%
|median 4 hand
|Q/5
|K/J/2
|-
|66,67%
|between 4/5 chips
|K/2
|A/7/2
|-
|75%
|median 5 hand
|K/9
|A/J/4
|-
|83,33%
|between 5/6 chips
|A/5
|2/2/7
|-
|91,67%
|median 6 hand
|A/J
|8/8/Q
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}

*''There was before another column which put an equal amount of combinaisons for every chip, but the 3 cards hand with it was way too out of place: A62 being median hand, and 337 being between chip 4 and 5 at 6 players was so unnatural.''

== Double pairs on the table (and single pair) ==
When there is two pairs on the table, and you hit nothing, only your highest card count.

That mean per example with a board JJ447, and you having A6, you can play that hand as if it was A2. That mean that if there was a fight earlier and you suspect someone else having better than you, you can play your hand as if it was A2 instead of A6. If that player got A8 or KQ, they could react differently.

In that same example if you got 62, you can take the lowest chip even if you highly suspect someone else has lower than you, because your hand will be JJ447 anyway.

But the most important thing is '''pocket pairs'''. If you got 22, and the second 4 arrived in the river, then '''while your hand was probably the best one pre flop''', still was good post flop and after the turn, '''it became the worst one after the river''' because you don't have a triple pair, you have the lowest possible hand: JJ447. That mean that an 82 which probably took 1 or 2 pre flop is now beating you. And so you should fight for the 1 and insist a lot since it's often not obvious for others players.

If you didn't understood that, you take your best 5 cards to create your hand. That mean that AJ99752 has the same value than AJ99743: they both use AJ997 to do their best hand.

If there is no pair on the board, and you have two pairs, then you should be high. When an unrelated pair come in the flop, now everyone which previously got one pair got the same combinaison than you (or 3 of a kind). That mean that now you should rank yourself as the best of your two pairs, which could mean going down even if others didn't improved.

== 4 cards of the same color on the table ==
'Obviously' on that kind of board, what you should be doing shift completely. Per example with 4 diamonds, we now ask you to rank yourself from the highest diamond card to the lowest diamond card. A hand with an Ace of spade and a 2 of diamond is now weaker than a 4 of spade and a 3 of diamond.

You first should put attention to which player potentially have 2 diamonds on their hand, it's more likely than their highest diamond card is high.

And then pay attention to potential flush house and straight, and good luck, it's like a situational pre flop situation.

If you hit nothing, don't hesitate to goes really low.
== Very strong connectors: advanced ==
We arrived at the end of the guide, so let's have some fun and talk again of connectors which got normally no value.

KQ is normally worst than A2, but there is lots of value of having various hand in all chips (that's why putting pairs not at the highest amount preflop have a really positive aspect too).

So if you play KQ as if you got A7, you will end up by having a KQ between two others hands with aces. When on the flop arrive one card between A, K, Q, and the low value of ace, then the problem will be resolved, and one hand will be far stronger.

The great upside is that when you compare KQ with KJ or KT, KQ will be a lot overvalued, so there will be no hesitation on which player got the better hand.

Though, on the rares cases where you got none of those cards in the table, you will need to correct your position post river, which is a great downside too.

Finally, if both A and K come during the flop, again I would advise to correct post river, that's pretty much the same problem.

Now, if you start doing the same with KJ, you lose a lot of the value, because now comparing KQ and KJ will be really difficult.

I though about doing the same with A2 but the opposing way, but the problem with that is that if a flop J62 or J92 come, others would likely put yourself into a hand K6 or K9 which is pretty bad. You have much less control of middle and bottom pair compared to top pair.

About others very strong connectors (T9, JT, QJ) I'm fine with playing them slightly higher (J5, Q5, K5). But the difference is far lower: you don't want to give them too much value and make others think you regularly hit a different pair post flop.

Tips thegang

2026-06-19T11:10:34Z

Romain672: /* Simple interpertation pre flop */

''The following tips aren’t set-in-stone rules, but are meant to give you an idea of how communication works in this game. As a group, figure out for yourselves how you’d like to communicate best without discussing your hand.''

Do not be afraid to '''take chips away''' from other players. This is exactly how you communicate the quality of your own hand and help others to categorize you. The more the chips move, the more communication takes place.

Always evaluate the '''current state''', not how good it might still become.
'''1st Phase''': Having a pair from the start: take a high number (and higher than your first chip), otherwise evaluate the rank of your High Card.
'''From 2nd Phase''': If something was revealed in this phase that increases your rating, take a higher (or at least equally high) chip than in the previous round. This allows fellow players to draw conclusions about your specific card values.
Conversely: If nothing fitting your hand was revealed, take the same chip of the previous round, but adapt to others players choices.

== Introduction ==
This is a concise ''strategy guide'' for ''The Gang'' focused on **rank‑only** chip selection. It defines a simple, repeatable convention for mapping numbered chips to rank percentiles.

== Core conventions to adopt ==
* '''Establish a ranking convention.''' Map each chip number to a clear percentile bucket so everyone interprets chip choices the same way.
* '''Conservative default.''' On the pre‑flop stage, default to slightly conservative picks and only escalate when community cards materially change the actual hand strength.
* '''Controlled chip theft.''' Taking another player’s chip is the only legal private signal—use it to correct obvious misrankings, not to bluff.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.''' Pre‑flop picks are based on ranks only; suitedness and flush/straight potential are ignored for the initial ranking.
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking a chip quickly signals a stronger rank; taking time to pick a chip, or picking then returning a chip, signals a weaker rank.
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.''' Base your pre‑flop chip choice exclusively on the two ranks in your hand.

== Simple interpertation pre flop ==
When suits are ignored, here is what all chips initially have (you have the exact hand at the middle of the page):

*Treat any pocket pair as better than any other hand: 22>AK
* Suits has no value.
* Connectors (7&8 of diamonds) has no value.
* Don't put value on speculative hands.
* The median hand is around J8.

{| class="wikitable"
!Chips
!6 players
!5 players
!4 players
!3 players
|-
|6
|pairs / AK ~ A5
|
|
|
|-
|5
|K
|pairs / A
|
|
|-
|4
|Q
|K
|pairs / A
|
|-
|3
|J8 ~ J2 / T
|Q8 ~ Q2 / J
|K / Q
|pairs / A / K
|-
|2
|9 / 8
|T / 9 / 8
|J / T / 9
|Q / J / T
|-
|1
|7
|7
|8 / 7
|9 / 8 / 7
|}
The few missing hands are depending of conventions: you could play them slowly preflop, and then show you are between two chips.

Note that if you play as group, you can play with any table of your choice, and simplify this table (putting all non kicker at the same chip) would be better for everyone. But the table here is to play with any player on bga which haven't read any table.

== Poker mindset ==
If you are coming from Poker, you really should change your mind on some things:

Colors has no value until you hit your flush. If you start putting value to them, others with a 97 hand will have no way to compare 96s & 98o.

Connectors has no value too else that become fastly confusing. Start by taking experience and know what you are doing before maybe putting very minor value to them.

Many top players put their pairs in the highest token possible: 22>AK. Note that it's possible too to put pairs as their real value pre flop (88=middle chip), but if you do that you must put yourself at the right place post flop.
== Pre flop advice ==
If you fight a lot for some tokens, the most important part is the first choice of every player. If someone started 3 and is fighting for 4, and everyone else started 4 or more, high chance they should be take the 1 instead.
== Post flop advices ==
When hitting a double pair or better fight for the highest token. After someone steal it twice/thrice from you re-evaluate the board to look for potential straight/flushes (note that some straight are impossible from the first chip choice). Then evaluate for the bottom double pair or high one.

When having a pocket hand pair pre flop higher than all value on the table, fight for the highest token.

When hitting top pair (the pair from the highest value on the table) take the highest token. You could insist once depending of first chip choice.

When hitting middle pair, take the second highest token if that's an increase from the first round. If it's the same value or below, wait for others choices. Note that it's possible that you took the highest token twice. On that case, others doesn't know you hit a pair, and you should take in consideration for future rounds.

When hitting bottom pair, wait for others choices, and then put yourself the lowest between those which improved.

When hitting nothing while I like taking a token 1 or 2 below my first chip if nobody react, though many people ask in chat for people to never do it and take instead the same token than the previous round. Your hand can only decreate in value with 2 pairs on the board or with 1 pair and goes from double pair to 'single pair' (read the third to last section for more informations).

== Turn and River advices ==
That card start to be really situationnal.

If that new card open straight and flushes, nearly any hand could goes for the highest chip immediately. Even if you got a double pair you should be careful about fighting for this highest token. Take into consideration how many straight and flushes there is. If it's really few (1 or 2) then the player which hit those should insist a lot for the highest token. That mean with a slightly weaker hand (like double pair) you could try to insist for 6. On the contrary if there is lots of straight and flushes (4 or 9+), take a lower chip more easily.

If that new card is above all others cards a new pair most likely put yourself as the best or second best hand, so take a really high chip.

If that new card is around the same value of others, take an higher chip, and let others decide where they put yourself. They know which pair you got but you don't know which pair they got.

If that new card is below all others cards, put yourself as the higher chip between those which never improved.

Note that pocket pairs can rank weirdly.

Finally at the River, the nuts (highest possible hand) should insist a lot for the highest token since there is nothing to lose. Knowing that, the second best hand can do the same. The third best hand can do the same but show weakness once after the fight while still showing they want the best token. Going lower than that is much trickier, especially for flushes board.

== Correcting mistakes ==
If you or someone else made a mistake that can easily be confusing.

It can be corrected naturally by someone hitting a pair, or even rarely with two pockets pairs by someone else hitting a pair.

If it's obvious what is happening you could try to correct it immediately (post flop), especially if there was some fight pre flop.

But I would advise you to let everything goes as planned, and in the final turn, still take your normal chip if the river can be confusing, and after everyone is happy with their chip, fight for the potential mistake which happened earlier. That's because when doing that, it look like to others that you hit a pair, which is extremely confusing.

== Differents ways of stealing a chip ==
Let's assume you could want the chip above you. You have a lot of ways to convey information when stealing a chip (from strongest to weakest):

- '''stealing the chip one above the one you want, put it back on the table, and steal the chip you want:''' this is often after you took too much time to react: this steal is even stronger that the default one, because you said to that other player that you are coming from the lower end of the chip above.

- '''stealing the chip:''' that's the default move

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table and waiting:''' that way is the most neutral one. You just give the decision to the other player/assume they got more informations than you. Preflop, that's normally after a fight, and you give them one last chance to be below you, and then you take the other one. Alternatively, it could mean that you want more time to think about the situation. If after a while, you take the lower or highest chip that's again some information (neutral+ or neutral-)

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table, and immediately taking the lowest one:''' that one is the weakest one. Usually by doing that you ask that other to double check what happenned earlier/confirm they really want that token. Alternatively, you could have seen that something isn't right, and want to show it to the other player, and let them decide to correct it or not. Sometimes you hit a pair, showed it post flop, the turn come with the lowest card of the table and another player take your chip because they seem to have hit a pair, so you do it while not showing extra strength.

Outside of that situation you can:

- steal the token of two others players and take back your own token if you think something isn't right between them

- take the tokens per example of everyone which hitted a pair, to put them back on the table and ask everyone to choose again

- if something is really not right (like you took the highest chip pre flop, and someone else who hit a pair is sure you hitted a pair, and don't let you be under them), you can pick some tokens completely out of place. Per example if you are fighting for 3/4/5, you can take the 1, put it back, and take the 3. That's an extremely strong sign you didn't hit that pair because you will make players with chips 1&2 being confused, so it's for emergency only.

==Full range and average hand pre-flop ==
This cheat sheet map recommended pre‑flop chips depending of the number of players. Use this at the table as a compact reference. Pairs are above all. All picks are '''rank‑only''' (no suits). Connector (7&8 of diamond) has no value.

''Note that even if the numbers are mathematiquely coherent, since pairs can often more easily be differenciated from A high, you could want to lower slightly the highest range. And the ranges shouldn't be uniform, the lower ranges should take more hands since there is an higher chance they doesn't matter (per example J2/J3/J4 are identical unless two of those kickers appear on the table).''

Finally, note that this sheet is only without context. It's great to know where you should put your hand initially. As soon as some player(s) take any chip(s), the value of that sheet fall pretty fast.

'''This sheet assume that there will be the same amount of players going for every chip''' (1326 possible hands)(22100 with 3 cards hand).
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!3 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|16.67%
|median 1 hand
|7/5
|T/4/2
|-
|33.33%
|between 1/2 chips
|9/8
|J/T/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 2 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|66.67%
|between 2/3 chips
|K/2
|A/7/2
|-
|83.33%
|median 3 hand
|A/5
|2/2/7
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!4 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|12,5%
|median 1 hand
|7/2
|9/6/4
|-
|25%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/7
|J/4/3
|-
|37.5%
|median 2 hand
|T/5
|Q/6/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 2/3 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|62,5%
|median 3 hand
|Q/8
|K/Q/7
|-
|75%
|between 3/4 chips
|K/9
|A/J/4
|-
|87,5%
|median 4 hand
|A/8
|5/5/T
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!5 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|T%
|median 1 hand
|6/4
|8/7/6
|-
|20%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/3
|T/7/5
|-
|30%
|median 2 hand
|9/5
|J/8/6
|-
|40%
|between 2/3 chips
|T/7
|Q/8/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 3 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|60%
|between 3/4 chips
|Q/6
|K/J/8
|-
|70%
|median 4 hand
|K/5
|A/9/2
|-
|80%
|between 4/5 chips
|A/2
|A/K/3
|-
|90%
|median 5 hand
|A/T
|7/7/9
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!6 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|8,33%
|median 1 hand
|6/2
|8/6/4
|-
|16,67%
|between 1/2 chips
|7/5
|T/4/2
|-
|25%
|median 2 hand
|8/7
|J/4/3
|-
|33,33%
|between 2/3 chips
|9/8
|J/T/5
|-
|41,67%
|median 3 hand
|T/8
|Q/9/4
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 3/4 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|58,33%
|median 4 hand
|Q/5
|K/J/2
|-
|66,67%
|between 4/5 chips
|K/2
|A/7/2
|-
|75%
|median 5 hand
|K/9
|A/J/4
|-
|83,33%
|between 5/6 chips
|A/5
|2/2/7
|-
|91,67%
|median 6 hand
|A/J
|8/8/Q
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}

*''There was before another column which put an equal amount of combinaisons for every chip, but the 3 cards hand with it was way too out of place: A62 being median hand, and 337 being between chip 4 and 5 at 6 players was so unnatural.''

== Double pairs on the table (and single pair) ==
When there is two pairs on the table, and you hit nothing, only your highest card count.

That mean per example with a board JJ447, and you having A6, you can play that hand as if it was A2. That mean that if there was a fight earlier and you suspect someone else having better than you, you can play your hand as if it was A2 instead of A6. If that player got A8 or KQ, they could react differently.

In that same example if you got 62, you can take the lowest chip even if you highly suspect someone else has lower than you, because your hand will be JJ447 anyway.

But the most important thing is '''pocket pairs'''. If you got 22, and the second 4 arrived in the river, then '''while your hand was probably the best one pre flop''', still was good post flop and after the turn, '''it became the worst one after the river''' because you don't have a triple pair, you have the lowest possible hand: JJ447. That mean that an 82 which probably took 1 or 2 pre flop is now beating you. And so you should fight for the 1 and insist a lot since it's often not obvious for others players.

If you didn't understood that, you take your best 5 cards to create your hand. That mean that AJ99752 has the same value than AJ99743: they both use AJ997 to do their best hand.

If there is no pair on the board, and you have two pairs, then you should be high. When an unrelated pair come in the flop, now everyone which previously got one pair got the same combinaison than you (or 3 of a kind). That mean that now you should rank yourself as the best of your two pairs, which could mean going down even if others didn't improved.

== 4 cards of the same color on the table ==
'Obviously' on that kind of board, what you should be doing shift completely. Per example with 4 diamonds, we now ask you to rank yourself from the highest diamond card to the lowest diamond card. A hand with an Ace of spade and a 2 of diamond is now weaker than a 4 of spade and a 3 of diamond.

You first should put attention to which player potentially have 2 diamonds on their hand, it's more likely than their highest diamond card is high.

And then pay attention to potential flush house and straight, and good luck, it's like a situational pre flop situation.

If you hit nothing, don't hesitate to goes really low.
== Very strong connectors: advanced ==
We arrived at the end of the guide, so let's have some fun and talk again of connectors which got normally no value.

KQ is normally worst than A2, but there is lots of value of having various hand in all chips (that's why putting pairs not at the highest amount preflop have a really positive aspect too).

So if you play KQ as if you got A7, you will end up by having a KQ between two others hands with aces. When on the flop arrive one card between A, K, Q, and the low value of ace, then the problem will be resolved, and one hand will be far stronger.

The great upside is that when you compare KQ with KJ or KT, KQ will be a lot overvalued, so there will be no hesitation on which player got the better hand.

Though, on the rares cases where you got none of those cards in the table, you will need to correct your position post river, which is a great downside too.

Finally, if both A and K come during the flop, again I would advise to correct post river, that's pretty much the same problem.

Now, if you start doing the same with KJ, you lose a lot of the value, because now comparing KQ and KJ will be really difficult.

I though about doing the same with A2 but the opposing way, but the problem with that is that if a flop J62 or J92 come, others would likely put yourself into a hand K6 or K9 which is pretty bad. You have much less control of middle and bottom pair compared to top pair.

About others very strong connectors (T9, JT, QJ) I'm fine with playing them slightly higher (J5, Q5, K5). But the difference is far lower: you don't want to give them too much value and make others think you regularly hit a different pair post flop.

Tips thegang

2026-06-19T11:09:13Z

Romain672: /* Simple interpertation pre flop */

''The following tips aren’t set-in-stone rules, but are meant to give you an idea of how communication works in this game. As a group, figure out for yourselves how you’d like to communicate best without discussing your hand.''

Do not be afraid to '''take chips away''' from other players. This is exactly how you communicate the quality of your own hand and help others to categorize you. The more the chips move, the more communication takes place.

Always evaluate the '''current state''', not how good it might still become.
'''1st Phase''': Having a pair from the start: take a high number (and higher than your first chip), otherwise evaluate the rank of your High Card.
'''From 2nd Phase''': If something was revealed in this phase that increases your rating, take a higher (or at least equally high) chip than in the previous round. This allows fellow players to draw conclusions about your specific card values.
Conversely: If nothing fitting your hand was revealed, take the same chip of the previous round, but adapt to others players choices.

== Introduction ==
This is a concise ''strategy guide'' for ''The Gang'' focused on **rank‑only** chip selection. It defines a simple, repeatable convention for mapping numbered chips to rank percentiles.

== Core conventions to adopt ==
* '''Establish a ranking convention.''' Map each chip number to a clear percentile bucket so everyone interprets chip choices the same way.
* '''Conservative default.''' On the pre‑flop stage, default to slightly conservative picks and only escalate when community cards materially change the actual hand strength.
* '''Controlled chip theft.''' Taking another player’s chip is the only legal private signal—use it to correct obvious misrankings, not to bluff.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.''' Pre‑flop picks are based on ranks only; suitedness and flush/straight potential are ignored for the initial ranking.
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking a chip quickly signals a stronger rank; taking time to pick a chip, or picking then returning a chip, signals a weaker rank.
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.''' Base your pre‑flop chip choice exclusively on the two ranks in your hand.

== Simple interpertation pre flop ==
When suits are ignored, here is what all chips initially have (you have the exact hand at the middle of the page):

*Treat any pocket pair as better than any other hand: 22>AK
* Suits has no value.
* Connectors (7&8 of diamonds) has no value.
* Don't put value on speculative hands.
* The median hand is around J8.

{| class="wikitable"
!Chips
!6 players
!5 players
!4 players
!3 players
|-
|6
|pairs / AK ~ A5
|
|
|
|-
|5
|K
|pairs / A
|
|
|-
|4
|Q
|K
|pairs / A
|
|-
|3
|J8 ~ J2 / T
|Q8 ~ Q2 / J
|K / Q
|pairs / A / K
|-
|2
|9 / 8
|T / 9 / 8
|J / T / 9
|Q / J / T
|-
|1
|7
|7
|8 / 7
|9 / 8 / 7
|}
The few missing hands are depending of conventions..

Note that if you play as group, you can play with any table of your choice, and simplify this table (putting all non kicker at the same chip) would be better for everyone. But the table here is to play with any player on bga which haven't read any table.

== Poker mindset ==
If you are coming from Poker, you really should change your mind on some things:

Colors has no value until you hit your flush. If you start putting value to them, others with a 97 hand will have no way to compare 96s & 98o.

Connectors has no value too else that become fastly confusing. Start by taking experience and know what you are doing before maybe putting very minor value to them.

Many top players put their pairs in the highest token possible: 22>AK. Note that it's possible too to put pairs as their real value pre flop (88=middle chip), but if you do that you must put yourself at the right place post flop.
== Pre flop advice ==
If you fight a lot for some tokens, the most important part is the first choice of every player. If someone started 3 and is fighting for 4, and everyone else started 4 or more, high chance they should be take the 1 instead.
== Post flop advices ==
When hitting a double pair or better fight for the highest token. After someone steal it twice/thrice from you re-evaluate the board to look for potential straight/flushes (note that some straight are impossible from the first chip choice). Then evaluate for the bottom double pair or high one.

When having a pocket hand pair pre flop higher than all value on the table, fight for the highest token.

When hitting top pair (the pair from the highest value on the table) take the highest token. You could insist once depending of first chip choice.

When hitting middle pair, take the second highest token if that's an increase from the first round. If it's the same value or below, wait for others choices. Note that it's possible that you took the highest token twice. On that case, others doesn't know you hit a pair, and you should take in consideration for future rounds.

When hitting bottom pair, wait for others choices, and then put yourself the lowest between those which improved.

When hitting nothing while I like taking a token 1 or 2 below my first chip if nobody react, though many people ask in chat for people to never do it and take instead the same token than the previous round. Your hand can only decreate in value with 2 pairs on the board or with 1 pair and goes from double pair to 'single pair' (read the third to last section for more informations).

== Turn and River advices ==
That card start to be really situationnal.

If that new card open straight and flushes, nearly any hand could goes for the highest chip immediately. Even if you got a double pair you should be careful about fighting for this highest token. Take into consideration how many straight and flushes there is. If it's really few (1 or 2) then the player which hit those should insist a lot for the highest token. That mean with a slightly weaker hand (like double pair) you could try to insist for 6. On the contrary if there is lots of straight and flushes (4 or 9+), take a lower chip more easily.

If that new card is above all others cards a new pair most likely put yourself as the best or second best hand, so take a really high chip.

If that new card is around the same value of others, take an higher chip, and let others decide where they put yourself. They know which pair you got but you don't know which pair they got.

If that new card is below all others cards, put yourself as the higher chip between those which never improved.

Note that pocket pairs can rank weirdly.

Finally at the River, the nuts (highest possible hand) should insist a lot for the highest token since there is nothing to lose. Knowing that, the second best hand can do the same. The third best hand can do the same but show weakness once after the fight while still showing they want the best token. Going lower than that is much trickier, especially for flushes board.

== Correcting mistakes ==
If you or someone else made a mistake that can easily be confusing.

It can be corrected naturally by someone hitting a pair, or even rarely with two pockets pairs by someone else hitting a pair.

If it's obvious what is happening you could try to correct it immediately (post flop), especially if there was some fight pre flop.

But I would advise you to let everything goes as planned, and in the final turn, still take your normal chip if the river can be confusing, and after everyone is happy with their chip, fight for the potential mistake which happened earlier. That's because when doing that, it look like to others that you hit a pair, which is extremely confusing.

== Differents ways of stealing a chip ==
Let's assume you could want the chip above you. You have a lot of ways to convey information when stealing a chip (from strongest to weakest):

- '''stealing the chip one above the one you want, put it back on the table, and steal the chip you want:''' this is often after you took too much time to react: this steal is even stronger that the default one, because you said to that other player that you are coming from the lower end of the chip above.

- '''stealing the chip:''' that's the default move

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table and waiting:''' that way is the most neutral one. You just give the decision to the other player/assume they got more informations than you. Preflop, that's normally after a fight, and you give them one last chance to be below you, and then you take the other one. Alternatively, it could mean that you want more time to think about the situation. If after a while, you take the lower or highest chip that's again some information (neutral+ or neutral-)

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table, and immediately taking the lowest one:''' that one is the weakest one. Usually by doing that you ask that other to double check what happenned earlier/confirm they really want that token. Alternatively, you could have seen that something isn't right, and want to show it to the other player, and let them decide to correct it or not. Sometimes you hit a pair, showed it post flop, the turn come with the lowest card of the table and another player take your chip because they seem to have hit a pair, so you do it while not showing extra strength.

Outside of that situation you can:

- steal the token of two others players and take back your own token if you think something isn't right between them

- take the tokens per example of everyone which hitted a pair, to put them back on the table and ask everyone to choose again

- if something is really not right (like you took the highest chip pre flop, and someone else who hit a pair is sure you hitted a pair, and don't let you be under them), you can pick some tokens completely out of place. Per example if you are fighting for 3/4/5, you can take the 1, put it back, and take the 3. That's an extremely strong sign you didn't hit that pair because you will make players with chips 1&2 being confused, so it's for emergency only.

==Full range and average hand pre-flop ==
This cheat sheet map recommended pre‑flop chips depending of the number of players. Use this at the table as a compact reference. Pairs are above all. All picks are '''rank‑only''' (no suits). Connector (7&8 of diamond) has no value.

''Note that even if the numbers are mathematiquely coherent, since pairs can often more easily be differenciated from A high, you could want to lower slightly the highest range. And the ranges shouldn't be uniform, the lower ranges should take more hands since there is an higher chance they doesn't matter (per example J2/J3/J4 are identical unless two of those kickers appear on the table).''

Finally, note that this sheet is only without context. It's great to know where you should put your hand initially. As soon as some player(s) take any chip(s), the value of that sheet fall pretty fast.

'''This sheet assume that there will be the same amount of players going for every chip''' (1326 possible hands)(22100 with 3 cards hand).
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!3 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|16.67%
|median 1 hand
|7/5
|T/4/2
|-
|33.33%
|between 1/2 chips
|9/8
|J/T/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 2 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|66.67%
|between 2/3 chips
|K/2
|A/7/2
|-
|83.33%
|median 3 hand
|A/5
|2/2/7
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!4 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|12,5%
|median 1 hand
|7/2
|9/6/4
|-
|25%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/7
|J/4/3
|-
|37.5%
|median 2 hand
|T/5
|Q/6/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 2/3 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|62,5%
|median 3 hand
|Q/8
|K/Q/7
|-
|75%
|between 3/4 chips
|K/9
|A/J/4
|-
|87,5%
|median 4 hand
|A/8
|5/5/T
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!5 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|T%
|median 1 hand
|6/4
|8/7/6
|-
|20%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/3
|T/7/5
|-
|30%
|median 2 hand
|9/5
|J/8/6
|-
|40%
|between 2/3 chips
|T/7
|Q/8/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 3 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|60%
|between 3/4 chips
|Q/6
|K/J/8
|-
|70%
|median 4 hand
|K/5
|A/9/2
|-
|80%
|between 4/5 chips
|A/2
|A/K/3
|-
|90%
|median 5 hand
|A/T
|7/7/9
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!6 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|8,33%
|median 1 hand
|6/2
|8/6/4
|-
|16,67%
|between 1/2 chips
|7/5
|T/4/2
|-
|25%
|median 2 hand
|8/7
|J/4/3
|-
|33,33%
|between 2/3 chips
|9/8
|J/T/5
|-
|41,67%
|median 3 hand
|T/8
|Q/9/4
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 3/4 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|58,33%
|median 4 hand
|Q/5
|K/J/2
|-
|66,67%
|between 4/5 chips
|K/2
|A/7/2
|-
|75%
|median 5 hand
|K/9
|A/J/4
|-
|83,33%
|between 5/6 chips
|A/5
|2/2/7
|-
|91,67%
|median 6 hand
|A/J
|8/8/Q
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}

*''There was before another column which put an equal amount of combinaisons for every chip, but the 3 cards hand with it was way too out of place: A62 being median hand, and 337 being between chip 4 and 5 at 6 players was so unnatural.''

== Double pairs on the table (and single pair) ==
When there is two pairs on the table, and you hit nothing, only your highest card count.

That mean per example with a board JJ447, and you having A6, you can play that hand as if it was A2. That mean that if there was a fight earlier and you suspect someone else having better than you, you can play your hand as if it was A2 instead of A6. If that player got A8 or KQ, they could react differently.

In that same example if you got 62, you can take the lowest chip even if you highly suspect someone else has lower than you, because your hand will be JJ447 anyway.

But the most important thing is '''pocket pairs'''. If you got 22, and the second 4 arrived in the river, then '''while your hand was probably the best one pre flop''', still was good post flop and after the turn, '''it became the worst one after the river''' because you don't have a triple pair, you have the lowest possible hand: JJ447. That mean that an 82 which probably took 1 or 2 pre flop is now beating you. And so you should fight for the 1 and insist a lot since it's often not obvious for others players.

If you didn't understood that, you take your best 5 cards to create your hand. That mean that AJ99752 has the same value than AJ99743: they both use AJ997 to do their best hand.

If there is no pair on the board, and you have two pairs, then you should be high. When an unrelated pair come in the flop, now everyone which previously got one pair got the same combinaison than you (or 3 of a kind). That mean that now you should rank yourself as the best of your two pairs, which could mean going down even if others didn't improved.

== 4 cards of the same color on the table ==
'Obviously' on that kind of board, what you should be doing shift completely. Per example with 4 diamonds, we now ask you to rank yourself from the highest diamond card to the lowest diamond card. A hand with an Ace of spade and a 2 of diamond is now weaker than a 4 of spade and a 3 of diamond.

You first should put attention to which player potentially have 2 diamonds on their hand, it's more likely than their highest diamond card is high.

And then pay attention to potential flush house and straight, and good luck, it's like a situational pre flop situation.

If you hit nothing, don't hesitate to goes really low.
== Very strong connectors: advanced ==
We arrived at the end of the guide, so let's have some fun and talk again of connectors which got normally no value.

KQ is normally worst than A2, but there is lots of value of having various hand in all chips (that's why putting pairs not at the highest amount preflop have a really positive aspect too).

So if you play KQ as if you got A7, you will end up by having a KQ between two others hands with aces. When on the flop arrive one card between A, K, Q, and the low value of ace, then the problem will be resolved, and one hand will be far stronger.

The great upside is that when you compare KQ with KJ or KT, KQ will be a lot overvalued, so there will be no hesitation on which player got the better hand.

Though, on the rares cases where you got none of those cards in the table, you will need to correct your position post river, which is a great downside too.

Finally, if both A and K come during the flop, again I would advise to correct post river, that's pretty much the same problem.

Now, if you start doing the same with KJ, you lose a lot of the value, because now comparing KQ and KJ will be really difficult.

I though about doing the same with A2 but the opposing way, but the problem with that is that if a flop J62 or J92 come, others would likely put yourself into a hand K6 or K9 which is pretty bad. You have much less control of middle and bottom pair compared to top pair.

About others very strong connectors (T9, JT, QJ) I'm fine with playing them slightly higher (J5, Q5, K5). But the difference is far lower: you don't want to give them too much value and make others think you regularly hit a different pair post flop.

Tips thegang

2026-06-19T11:08:09Z

Romain672: /* Simple interpertation pre flop */ update on the first tab: making both conventions work with it

''The following tips aren’t set-in-stone rules, but are meant to give you an idea of how communication works in this game. As a group, figure out for yourselves how you’d like to communicate best without discussing your hand.''

Do not be afraid to '''take chips away''' from other players. This is exactly how you communicate the quality of your own hand and help others to categorize you. The more the chips move, the more communication takes place.

Always evaluate the '''current state''', not how good it might still become.
'''1st Phase''': Having a pair from the start: take a high number (and higher than your first chip), otherwise evaluate the rank of your High Card.
'''From 2nd Phase''': If something was revealed in this phase that increases your rating, take a higher (or at least equally high) chip than in the previous round. This allows fellow players to draw conclusions about your specific card values.
Conversely: If nothing fitting your hand was revealed, take the same chip of the previous round, but adapt to others players choices.

== Introduction ==
This is a concise ''strategy guide'' for ''The Gang'' focused on **rank‑only** chip selection. It defines a simple, repeatable convention for mapping numbered chips to rank percentiles.

== Core conventions to adopt ==
* '''Establish a ranking convention.''' Map each chip number to a clear percentile bucket so everyone interprets chip choices the same way.
* '''Conservative default.''' On the pre‑flop stage, default to slightly conservative picks and only escalate when community cards materially change the actual hand strength.
* '''Controlled chip theft.''' Taking another player’s chip is the only legal private signal—use it to correct obvious misrankings, not to bluff.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.''' Pre‑flop picks are based on ranks only; suitedness and flush/straight potential are ignored for the initial ranking.
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking a chip quickly signals a stronger rank; taking time to pick a chip, or picking then returning a chip, signals a weaker rank.
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.''' Base your pre‑flop chip choice exclusively on the two ranks in your hand.

== Simple interpertation pre flop ==
When suits are ignored, here is what all chips initially have (you have the exact hand at the middle of the page):

*Treat any pocket pair as better than any other hand: 22>AK
* Suits has no value.
* Connectors (7&8 of diamonds) has no value.
* Don't put value on speculative hands.
* The median hand is around J8.

{| class="wikitable"
!Chips
!6 players
!5 players
!4 players
!3 players
|-
|6
|pairs / AK ~ A5
|
|
|
|-
|5
|K
|pairs / A
|
|
|-
|4
|Q
|K
|pairs / A
|
|-
|3
|J8 ~ J2 / T
|Q8 ~ Q2 / J
|K / Q
|pairs / A / K
|-
|2
|9 / 8
|T / 9 / 8
|J / T / 9
|Q / J / T
|-
|1
|7
|7
|8 / 7
|9 / 8 / 7
|}
The few hands missing are depending of conventions..

Note that if you play as group, you can play with any table of your choice, and simplify this table (putting all non kicker at the same chip) would be better for everyone. But the table here is to play with any player on bga which haven't read any table.

== Poker mindset ==
If you are coming from Poker, you really should change your mind on some things:

Colors has no value until you hit your flush. If you start putting value to them, others with a 97 hand will have no way to compare 96s & 98o.

Connectors has no value too else that become fastly confusing. Start by taking experience and know what you are doing before maybe putting very minor value to them.

Many top players put their pairs in the highest token possible: 22>AK. Note that it's possible too to put pairs as their real value pre flop (88=middle chip), but if you do that you must put yourself at the right place post flop.
== Pre flop advice ==
If you fight a lot for some tokens, the most important part is the first choice of every player. If someone started 3 and is fighting for 4, and everyone else started 4 or more, high chance they should be take the 1 instead.
== Post flop advices ==
When hitting a double pair or better fight for the highest token. After someone steal it twice/thrice from you re-evaluate the board to look for potential straight/flushes (note that some straight are impossible from the first chip choice). Then evaluate for the bottom double pair or high one.

When having a pocket hand pair pre flop higher than all value on the table, fight for the highest token.

When hitting top pair (the pair from the highest value on the table) take the highest token. You could insist once depending of first chip choice.

When hitting middle pair, take the second highest token if that's an increase from the first round. If it's the same value or below, wait for others choices. Note that it's possible that you took the highest token twice. On that case, others doesn't know you hit a pair, and you should take in consideration for future rounds.

When hitting bottom pair, wait for others choices, and then put yourself the lowest between those which improved.

When hitting nothing while I like taking a token 1 or 2 below my first chip if nobody react, though many people ask in chat for people to never do it and take instead the same token than the previous round. Your hand can only decreate in value with 2 pairs on the board or with 1 pair and goes from double pair to 'single pair' (read the third to last section for more informations).

== Turn and River advices ==
That card start to be really situationnal.

If that new card open straight and flushes, nearly any hand could goes for the highest chip immediately. Even if you got a double pair you should be careful about fighting for this highest token. Take into consideration how many straight and flushes there is. If it's really few (1 or 2) then the player which hit those should insist a lot for the highest token. That mean with a slightly weaker hand (like double pair) you could try to insist for 6. On the contrary if there is lots of straight and flushes (4 or 9+), take a lower chip more easily.

If that new card is above all others cards a new pair most likely put yourself as the best or second best hand, so take a really high chip.

If that new card is around the same value of others, take an higher chip, and let others decide where they put yourself. They know which pair you got but you don't know which pair they got.

If that new card is below all others cards, put yourself as the higher chip between those which never improved.

Note that pocket pairs can rank weirdly.

Finally at the River, the nuts (highest possible hand) should insist a lot for the highest token since there is nothing to lose. Knowing that, the second best hand can do the same. The third best hand can do the same but show weakness once after the fight while still showing they want the best token. Going lower than that is much trickier, especially for flushes board.

== Correcting mistakes ==
If you or someone else made a mistake that can easily be confusing.

It can be corrected naturally by someone hitting a pair, or even rarely with two pockets pairs by someone else hitting a pair.

If it's obvious what is happening you could try to correct it immediately (post flop), especially if there was some fight pre flop.

But I would advise you to let everything goes as planned, and in the final turn, still take your normal chip if the river can be confusing, and after everyone is happy with their chip, fight for the potential mistake which happened earlier. That's because when doing that, it look like to others that you hit a pair, which is extremely confusing.

== Differents ways of stealing a chip ==
Let's assume you could want the chip above you. You have a lot of ways to convey information when stealing a chip (from strongest to weakest):

- '''stealing the chip one above the one you want, put it back on the table, and steal the chip you want:''' this is often after you took too much time to react: this steal is even stronger that the default one, because you said to that other player that you are coming from the lower end of the chip above.

- '''stealing the chip:''' that's the default move

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table and waiting:''' that way is the most neutral one. You just give the decision to the other player/assume they got more informations than you. Preflop, that's normally after a fight, and you give them one last chance to be below you, and then you take the other one. Alternatively, it could mean that you want more time to think about the situation. If after a while, you take the lower or highest chip that's again some information (neutral+ or neutral-)

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table, and immediately taking the lowest one:''' that one is the weakest one. Usually by doing that you ask that other to double check what happenned earlier/confirm they really want that token. Alternatively, you could have seen that something isn't right, and want to show it to the other player, and let them decide to correct it or not. Sometimes you hit a pair, showed it post flop, the turn come with the lowest card of the table and another player take your chip because they seem to have hit a pair, so you do it while not showing extra strength.

Outside of that situation you can:

- steal the token of two others players and take back your own token if you think something isn't right between them

- take the tokens per example of everyone which hitted a pair, to put them back on the table and ask everyone to choose again

- if something is really not right (like you took the highest chip pre flop, and someone else who hit a pair is sure you hitted a pair, and don't let you be under them), you can pick some tokens completely out of place. Per example if you are fighting for 3/4/5, you can take the 1, put it back, and take the 3. That's an extremely strong sign you didn't hit that pair because you will make players with chips 1&2 being confused, so it's for emergency only.

==Full range and average hand pre-flop ==
This cheat sheet map recommended pre‑flop chips depending of the number of players. Use this at the table as a compact reference. Pairs are above all. All picks are '''rank‑only''' (no suits). Connector (7&8 of diamond) has no value.

''Note that even if the numbers are mathematiquely coherent, since pairs can often more easily be differenciated from A high, you could want to lower slightly the highest range. And the ranges shouldn't be uniform, the lower ranges should take more hands since there is an higher chance they doesn't matter (per example J2/J3/J4 are identical unless two of those kickers appear on the table).''

Finally, note that this sheet is only without context. It's great to know where you should put your hand initially. As soon as some player(s) take any chip(s), the value of that sheet fall pretty fast.

'''This sheet assume that there will be the same amount of players going for every chip''' (1326 possible hands)(22100 with 3 cards hand).
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!3 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|16.67%
|median 1 hand
|7/5
|T/4/2
|-
|33.33%
|between 1/2 chips
|9/8
|J/T/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 2 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|66.67%
|between 2/3 chips
|K/2
|A/7/2
|-
|83.33%
|median 3 hand
|A/5
|2/2/7
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!4 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|12,5%
|median 1 hand
|7/2
|9/6/4
|-
|25%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/7
|J/4/3
|-
|37.5%
|median 2 hand
|T/5
|Q/6/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 2/3 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|62,5%
|median 3 hand
|Q/8
|K/Q/7
|-
|75%
|between 3/4 chips
|K/9
|A/J/4
|-
|87,5%
|median 4 hand
|A/8
|5/5/T
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!5 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|T%
|median 1 hand
|6/4
|8/7/6
|-
|20%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/3
|T/7/5
|-
|30%
|median 2 hand
|9/5
|J/8/6
|-
|40%
|between 2/3 chips
|T/7
|Q/8/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 3 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|60%
|between 3/4 chips
|Q/6
|K/J/8
|-
|70%
|median 4 hand
|K/5
|A/9/2
|-
|80%
|between 4/5 chips
|A/2
|A/K/3
|-
|90%
|median 5 hand
|A/T
|7/7/9
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!6 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|8,33%
|median 1 hand
|6/2
|8/6/4
|-
|16,67%
|between 1/2 chips
|7/5
|T/4/2
|-
|25%
|median 2 hand
|8/7
|J/4/3
|-
|33,33%
|between 2/3 chips
|9/8
|J/T/5
|-
|41,67%
|median 3 hand
|T/8
|Q/9/4
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 3/4 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|58,33%
|median 4 hand
|Q/5
|K/J/2
|-
|66,67%
|between 4/5 chips
|K/2
|A/7/2
|-
|75%
|median 5 hand
|K/9
|A/J/4
|-
|83,33%
|between 5/6 chips
|A/5
|2/2/7
|-
|91,67%
|median 6 hand
|A/J
|8/8/Q
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}

*''There was before another column which put an equal amount of combinaisons for every chip, but the 3 cards hand with it was way too out of place: A62 being median hand, and 337 being between chip 4 and 5 at 6 players was so unnatural.''

== Double pairs on the table (and single pair) ==
When there is two pairs on the table, and you hit nothing, only your highest card count.

That mean per example with a board JJ447, and you having A6, you can play that hand as if it was A2. That mean that if there was a fight earlier and you suspect someone else having better than you, you can play your hand as if it was A2 instead of A6. If that player got A8 or KQ, they could react differently.

In that same example if you got 62, you can take the lowest chip even if you highly suspect someone else has lower than you, because your hand will be JJ447 anyway.

But the most important thing is '''pocket pairs'''. If you got 22, and the second 4 arrived in the river, then '''while your hand was probably the best one pre flop''', still was good post flop and after the turn, '''it became the worst one after the river''' because you don't have a triple pair, you have the lowest possible hand: JJ447. That mean that an 82 which probably took 1 or 2 pre flop is now beating you. And so you should fight for the 1 and insist a lot since it's often not obvious for others players.

If you didn't understood that, you take your best 5 cards to create your hand. That mean that AJ99752 has the same value than AJ99743: they both use AJ997 to do their best hand.

If there is no pair on the board, and you have two pairs, then you should be high. When an unrelated pair come in the flop, now everyone which previously got one pair got the same combinaison than you (or 3 of a kind). That mean that now you should rank yourself as the best of your two pairs, which could mean going down even if others didn't improved.

== 4 cards of the same color on the table ==
'Obviously' on that kind of board, what you should be doing shift completely. Per example with 4 diamonds, we now ask you to rank yourself from the highest diamond card to the lowest diamond card. A hand with an Ace of spade and a 2 of diamond is now weaker than a 4 of spade and a 3 of diamond.

You first should put attention to which player potentially have 2 diamonds on their hand, it's more likely than their highest diamond card is high.

And then pay attention to potential flush house and straight, and good luck, it's like a situational pre flop situation.

If you hit nothing, don't hesitate to goes really low.
== Very strong connectors: advanced ==
We arrived at the end of the guide, so let's have some fun and talk again of connectors which got normally no value.

KQ is normally worst than A2, but there is lots of value of having various hand in all chips (that's why putting pairs not at the highest amount preflop have a really positive aspect too).

So if you play KQ as if you got A7, you will end up by having a KQ between two others hands with aces. When on the flop arrive one card between A, K, Q, and the low value of ace, then the problem will be resolved, and one hand will be far stronger.

The great upside is that when you compare KQ with KJ or KT, KQ will be a lot overvalued, so there will be no hesitation on which player got the better hand.

Though, on the rares cases where you got none of those cards in the table, you will need to correct your position post river, which is a great downside too.

Finally, if both A and K come during the flop, again I would advise to correct post river, that's pretty much the same problem.

Now, if you start doing the same with KJ, you lose a lot of the value, because now comparing KQ and KJ will be really difficult.

I though about doing the same with A2 but the opposing way, but the problem with that is that if a flop J62 or J92 come, others would likely put yourself into a hand K6 or K9 which is pretty bad. You have much less control of middle and bottom pair compared to top pair.

About others very strong connectors (T9, JT, QJ) I'm fine with playing them slightly higher (J5, Q5, K5). But the difference is far lower: you don't want to give them too much value and make others think you regularly hit a different pair post flop.

Tips thegang

2026-06-17T12:05:49Z

Romain672: /* Very strong connectors (advanced) */ link to that section doesn't work because of brackets ()

''The following tips aren’t set-in-stone rules, but are meant to give you an idea of how communication works in this game. As a group, figure out for yourselves how you’d like to communicate best without discussing your hand.''

Do not be afraid to '''take chips away''' from other players. This is exactly how you communicate the quality of your own hand and help others to categorize you. The more the chips move, the more communication takes place.

Always evaluate the '''current state''', not how good it might still become.
'''1st Phase''': Having a pair from the start: take a high number (and higher than your first chip), otherwise evaluate the rank of your High Card.
'''From 2nd Phase''': If something was revealed in this phase that increases your rating, take a higher (or at least equally high) chip than in the previous round. This allows fellow players to draw conclusions about your specific card values.
Conversely: If nothing fitting your hand was revealed, take the same chip of the previous round, but adapt to others players choices.

== Introduction ==
This is a concise ''strategy guide'' for ''The Gang'' focused on **rank‑only** chip selection. It defines a simple, repeatable convention for mapping numbered chips to rank percentiles.

== Core conventions to adopt ==
* '''Establish a ranking convention.''' Map each chip number to a clear percentile bucket so everyone interprets chip choices the same way.
* '''Conservative default.''' On the pre‑flop stage, default to slightly conservative picks and only escalate when community cards materially change the actual hand strength.
* '''Controlled chip theft.''' Taking another player’s chip is the only legal private signal—use it to correct obvious misrankings, not to bluff.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.''' Pre‑flop picks are based on ranks only; suitedness and flush/straight potential are ignored for the initial ranking.
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking a chip quickly signals a stronger rank; taking time to pick a chip, or picking then returning a chip, signals a weaker rank.
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.''' Base your pre‑flop chip choice exclusively on the two ranks in your hand.

== Simple interpertation pre flop ==
When suits are ignored, here is what all chips initially have (you have the exact hand at the middle of the page):

*Treat any pocket pair as better than any other hand: 22>AK
* Suits has no value.
* Connectors (7&8 of diamonds) has no value.
* Timing as a soft signal post flop: Picking quickly = stronger; taking time = weaker
* No talk; use chips to correct.
* Don't put value on speculative hands.
* The median hand is around J8.

{| class="wikitable"
!Chips
!6 players
!5 players
!4 players
!3 players
|-
|6
|pairs / A high
|
|
|
|-
|5
|A low / K
|pairs / A
|
|
|-
|4
|Q / J high
|K / Q high
|pairs / A
|
|-
|3
|J low / T
|Q low / J
|K / Q
|pairs / A / K
|-
|2
|9 / 8
|T / 9 / 8
|J / T / 9
|Q / J / T
|-
|1
|7
|7
|8 / 7
|9 / 8 / 7
|}
For 6 players put 1.5 categories in each chips starting highest, pairs counting for 1.

For 5 players do the same but pairs count for 0,5.

For 4 players put 2 categories in each chip starting highest.

For 3 players put 3 categories in each chip starting highest.

You end up with only chip 2 being slightly out of place.

.

Note that if you play as group, you can play with any table of your choice, and simplify this table (putting all non kicker at the same chip) would be better for everyone. But the table here is to play with any player on bga which haven't read any table.

== Poker mindset ==
If you are coming from Poker, you really should change your mind on some things:

Colors has no value until you hit your flush. If you start putting value to them, others with a 97 hand will have no way to compare 96s & 98o.

Connectors has no value too else that become fastly confusing. Start by taking experience and know what you are doing before maybe putting very minor value to them.

Many top players put their pairs in the highest token possible: 22>AK. Note that it's possible too to put pairs as their real value pre flop (88=middle chip), but if you do that you must put yourself at the right place post flop.
== Pre flop advice ==
If you fight a lot for some tokens, the most important part is the first choice of every player. If someone started 3 and is fighting for 4, and everyone else started 4 or more, high chance they should be take the 1 instead.
== Post flop advices ==
When hitting a double pair or better fight for the highest token. After someone steal it twice/thrice from you re-evaluate the board to look for potential straight/flushes (note that some straight are impossible from the first chip choice). Then evaluate for the bottom double pair or high one.

When having a pocket hand pair pre flop higher than all value on the table, fight for the highest token.

When hitting top pair (the pair from the highest value on the table) take the highest token. You could insist once depending of first chip choice.

When hitting middle pair, take the second highest token if that's an increase from the first round. If it's the same value or below, wait for others choices. Note that it's possible that you took the highest token twice. On that case, others doesn't know you hit a pair, and you should take in consideration for future rounds.

When hitting bottom pair, wait for others choices, and then put yourself the lowest between those which improved.

When hitting nothing while I like taking a token 1 or 2 below my first chip if nobody react, though many people ask in chat for people to never do it and take instead the same token than the previous round. Your hand can only decreate in value with 2 pairs on the board or with 1 pair and goes from double pair to 'single pair' (read the third to last section for more informations).

== Turn and River advices ==
That card start to be really situationnal.

If that new card open straight and flushes, nearly any hand could goes for the highest chip immediately. Even if you got a double pair you should be careful about fighting for this highest token. Take into consideration how many straight and flushes there is. If it's really few (1 or 2) then the player which hit those should insist a lot for the highest token. That mean with a slightly weaker hand (like double pair) you could try to insist for 6. On the contrary if there is lots of straight and flushes (4 or 9+), take a lower chip more easily.

If that new card is above all others cards a new pair most likely put yourself as the best or second best hand, so take a really high chip.

If that new card is around the same value of others, take an higher chip, and let others decide where they put yourself. They know which pair you got but you don't know which pair they got.

If that new card is below all others cards, put yourself as the higher chip between those which never improved.

Note that pocket pairs can rank weirdly.

Finally at the River, the nuts (highest possible hand) should insist a lot for the highest token since there is nothing to lose. Knowing that, the second best hand can do the same. The third best hand can do the same but show weakness once after the fight while still showing they want the best token. Going lower than that is much trickier, especially for flushes board.

== Correcting mistakes ==
If you or someone else made a mistake that can easily be confusing.

It can be corrected naturally by someone hitting a pair, or even rarely with two pockets pairs by someone else hitting a pair.

If it's obvious what is happening you could try to correct it immediately (post flop), especially if there was some fight pre flop.

But I would advise you to let everything goes as planned, and in the final turn, still take your normal chip if the river can be confusing, and after everyone is happy with their chip, fight for the potential mistake which happened earlier. That's because when doing that, it look like to others that you hit a pair, which is extremely confusing.

== Differents ways of stealing a chip ==
Let's assume you could want the chip above you. You have a lot of ways to convey information when stealing a chip (from strongest to weakest):

- '''stealing the chip one above the one you want, put it back on the table, and steal the chip you want:''' this is often after you took too much time to react: this steal is even stronger that the default one, because you said to that other player that you are coming from the lower end of the chip above.

- '''stealing the chip:''' that's the default move

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table and waiting:''' that way is the most neutral one. You just give the decision to the other player/assume they got more informations than you. Preflop, that's normally after a fight, and you give them one last chance to be below you, and then you take the other one. Alternatively, it could mean that you want more time to think about the situation. If after a while, you take the lower or highest chip that's again some information (neutral+ or neutral-)

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table, and immediately taking the lowest one:''' that one is the weakest one. Usually by doing that you ask that other to double check what happenned earlier/confirm they really want that token. Alternatively, you could have seen that something isn't right, and want to show it to the other player, and let them decide to correct it or not. Sometimes you hit a pair, showed it post flop, the turn come with the lowest card of the table and another player take your chip because they seem to have hit a pair, so you do it while not showing extra strength.

Outside of that situation you can:

- steal the token of two others players and take back your own token if you think something isn't right between them

- take the tokens per example of everyone which hitted a pair, to put them back on the table and ask everyone to choose again

- if something is really not right (like you took the highest chip pre flop, and someone else who hit a pair is sure you hitted a pair, and don't let you be under them), you can pick some tokens completely out of place. Per example if you are fighting for 3/4/5, you can take the 1, put it back, and take the 3. That's an extremely strong sign you didn't hit that pair because you will make players with chips 1&2 being confused, so it's for emergency only.

==Full range and average hand pre-flop ==
This cheat sheet map recommended pre‑flop chips depending of the number of players. Use this at the table as a compact reference. Pairs are above all. All picks are '''rank‑only''' (no suits). Connector (7&8 of diamond) has no value.

''Note that even if the numbers are mathematiquely coherent, since pairs can often more easily be differenciated from A high, you could want to lower slightly the highest range. And the ranges shouldn't be uniform, the lower ranges should take more hands since there is an higher chance they doesn't matter (per example J2/J3/J4 are identical unless two of those kickers appear on the table).''

Finally, note that this sheet is only without context. It's great to know where you should put your hand initially. As soon as some player(s) take any chip(s), the value of that sheet fall pretty fast.

'''This sheet assume that there will be the same amount of players going for every chip''' (1326 possible hands)(22100 with 3 cards hand).
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!3 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|16.67%
|median 1 hand
|7/5
|T/4/2
|-
|33.33%
|between 1/2 chips
|9/8
|J/T/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 2 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|66.67%
|between 2/3 chips
|K/2
|A/7/2
|-
|83.33%
|median 3 hand
|A/5
|2/2/7
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!4 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|12,5%
|median 1 hand
|7/2
|9/6/4
|-
|25%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/7
|J/4/3
|-
|37.5%
|median 2 hand
|T/5
|Q/6/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 2/3 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|62,5%
|median 3 hand
|Q/8
|K/Q/7
|-
|75%
|between 3/4 chips
|K/9
|A/J/4
|-
|87,5%
|median 4 hand
|A/8
|5/5/T
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!5 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|T%
|median 1 hand
|6/4
|8/7/6
|-
|20%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/3
|T/7/5
|-
|30%
|median 2 hand
|9/5
|J/8/6
|-
|40%
|between 2/3 chips
|T/7
|Q/8/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 3 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|60%
|between 3/4 chips
|Q/6
|K/J/8
|-
|70%
|median 4 hand
|K/5
|A/9/2
|-
|80%
|between 4/5 chips
|A/2
|A/K/3
|-
|90%
|median 5 hand
|A/T
|7/7/9
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!6 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|8,33%
|median 1 hand
|6/2
|8/6/4
|-
|16,67%
|between 1/2 chips
|7/5
|T/4/2
|-
|25%
|median 2 hand
|8/7
|J/4/3
|-
|33,33%
|between 2/3 chips
|9/8
|J/T/5
|-
|41,67%
|median 3 hand
|T/8
|Q/9/4
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 3/4 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|58,33%
|median 4 hand
|Q/5
|K/J/2
|-
|66,67%
|between 4/5 chips
|K/2
|A/7/2
|-
|75%
|median 5 hand
|K/9
|A/J/4
|-
|83,33%
|between 5/6 chips
|A/5
|2/2/7
|-
|91,67%
|median 6 hand
|A/J
|8/8/Q
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}

*''There was before another column which put an equal amount of combinaisons for every chip, but the 3 cards hand with it was way too out of place: A62 being median hand, and 337 being between chip 4 and 5 at 6 players was so unnatural.''

== Double pairs on the table (and single pair) ==
When there is two pairs on the table, and you hit nothing, only your highest card count.

That mean per example with a board JJ447, and you having A6, you can play that hand as if it was A2. That mean that if there was a fight earlier and you suspect someone else having better than you, you can play your hand as if it was A2 instead of A6. If that player got A8 or KQ, they could react differently.

In that same example if you got 62, you can take the lowest chip even if you highly suspect someone else has lower than you, because your hand will be JJ447 anyway.

But the most important thing is '''pocket pairs'''. If you got 22, and the second 4 arrived in the river, then '''while your hand was probably the best one pre flop''', still was good post flop and after the turn, '''it became the worst one after the river''' because you don't have a triple pair, you have the lowest possible hand: JJ447. That mean that an 82 which probably took 1 or 2 pre flop is now beating you. And so you should fight for the 1 and insist a lot since it's often not obvious for others players.

If you didn't understood that, you take your best 5 cards to create your hand. That mean that AJ99752 has the same value than AJ99743: they both use AJ997 to do their best hand.

If there is no pair on the board, and you have two pairs, then you should be high. When an unrelated pair come in the flop, now everyone which previously got one pair got the same combinaison than you (or 3 of a kind). That mean that now you should rank yourself as the best of your two pairs, which could mean going down even if others didn't improved.

== 4 cards of the same color on the table ==
'Obviously' on that kind of board, what you should be doing shift completely. Per example with 4 diamonds, we now ask you to rank yourself from the highest diamond card to the lowest diamond card. A hand with an Ace of spade and a 2 of diamond is now weaker than a 4 of spade and a 3 of diamond.

You first should put attention to which player potentially have 2 diamonds on their hand, it's more likely than their highest diamond card is high.

And then pay attention to potential flush house and straight, and good luck, it's like a situational pre flop situation.

If you hit nothing, don't hesitate to goes really low.
== Very strong connectors: advanced ==
We arrived at the end of the guide, so let's have some fun and talk again of connectors which got normally no value.

KQ is normally worst than A2, but there is lots of value of having various hand in all chips (that's why putting pairs not at the highest amount preflop have a really positive aspect too).

So if you play KQ as if you got A7, you will end up by having a KQ between two others hands with aces. When on the flop arrive one card between A, K, Q, and the low value of ace, then the problem will be resolved, and one hand will be far stronger.

The great upside is that when you compare KQ with KJ or KT, KQ will be a lot overvalued, so there will be no hesitation on which player got the better hand.

Though, on the rares cases where you got none of those cards in the table, you will need to correct your position post river, which is a great downside too.

Finally, if both A and K come during the flop, again I would advise to correct post river, that's pretty much the same problem.

Now, if you start doing the same with KJ, you lose a lot of the value, because now comparing KQ and KJ will be really difficult.

I though about doing the same with A2 but the opposing way, but the problem with that is that if a flop J62 or J92 come, others would likely put yourself into a hand K6 or K9 which is pretty bad. You have much less control of middle and bottom pair compared to top pair.

About others very strong connectors (T9, JT, QJ) I'm fine with playing them slightly higher (J5, Q5, K5). But the difference is far lower: you don't want to give them too much value and make others think you regularly hit a different pair post flop.

Tips thegang

2026-06-16T09:26:42Z

Romain672: /* Full range and average hand pre-flop */ mistake in the table

''The following tips aren’t set-in-stone rules, but are meant to give you an idea of how communication works in this game. As a group, figure out for yourselves how you’d like to communicate best without discussing your hand.''

Do not be afraid to '''take chips away''' from other players. This is exactly how you communicate the quality of your own hand and help others to categorize you. The more the chips move, the more communication takes place.

Always evaluate the '''current state''', not how good it might still become.
'''1st Phase''': Having a pair from the start: take a high number (and higher than your first chip), otherwise evaluate the rank of your High Card.
'''From 2nd Phase''': If something was revealed in this phase that increases your rating, take a higher (or at least equally high) chip than in the previous round. This allows fellow players to draw conclusions about your specific card values.
Conversely: If nothing fitting your hand was revealed, take the same chip of the previous round, but adapt to others players choices.

== Introduction ==
This is a concise ''strategy guide'' for ''The Gang'' focused on **rank‑only** chip selection. It defines a simple, repeatable convention for mapping numbered chips to rank percentiles.

== Core conventions to adopt ==
* '''Establish a ranking convention.''' Map each chip number to a clear percentile bucket so everyone interprets chip choices the same way.
* '''Conservative default.''' On the pre‑flop stage, default to slightly conservative picks and only escalate when community cards materially change the actual hand strength.
* '''Controlled chip theft.''' Taking another player’s chip is the only legal private signal—use it to correct obvious misrankings, not to bluff.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.''' Pre‑flop picks are based on ranks only; suitedness and flush/straight potential are ignored for the initial ranking.
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking a chip quickly signals a stronger rank; taking time to pick a chip, or picking then returning a chip, signals a weaker rank.
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.''' Base your pre‑flop chip choice exclusively on the two ranks in your hand.

== Simple interpertation pre flop ==
When suits are ignored, here is what all chips initially have (you have the exact hand at the middle of the page):

*Treat any pocket pair as better than any other hand: 22>AK
* Suits has no value.
* Connectors (7&8 of diamonds) has no value.
* Timing as a soft signal post flop: Picking quickly = stronger; taking time = weaker
* No talk; use chips to correct.
* Don't put value on speculative hands.
* The median hand is around J8.

{| class="wikitable"
!Chips
!6 players
!5 players
!4 players
!3 players
|-
|6
|pairs / A high
|
|
|
|-
|5
|A low / K
|pairs / A
|
|
|-
|4
|Q / J high
|K / Q high
|pairs / A
|
|-
|3
|J low / T
|Q low / J
|K / Q
|pairs / A / K
|-
|2
|9 / 8
|T / 9 / 8
|J / T / 9
|Q / J / T
|-
|1
|7
|7
|8 / 7
|9 / 8 / 7
|}
For 6 players put 1.5 categories in each chips starting highest, pairs counting for 1.

For 5 players do the same but pairs count for 0,5.

For 4 players put 2 categories in each chip starting highest.

For 3 players put 3 categories in each chip starting highest.

You end up with only chip 2 being slightly out of place.

.

Note that if you play as group, you can play with any table of your choice, and simplify this table (putting all non kicker at the same chip) would be better for everyone. But the table here is to play with any player on bga which haven't read any table.

== Poker mindset ==
If you are coming from Poker, you really should change your mind on some things:

Colors has no value until you hit your flush. If you start putting value to them, others with a 97 hand will have no way to compare 96s & 98o.

Connectors has no value too else that become fastly confusing. Start by taking experience and know what you are doing before maybe putting very minor value to them.

Many top players put their pairs in the highest token possible: 22>AK. Note that it's possible too to put pairs as their real value pre flop (88=middle chip), but if you do that you must put yourself at the right place post flop.
== Pre flop advice ==
If you fight a lot for some tokens, the most important part is the first choice of every player. If someone started 3 and is fighting for 4, and everyone else started 4 or more, high chance they should be take the 1 instead.
== Post flop advices ==
When hitting a double pair or better fight for the highest token. After someone steal it twice/thrice from you re-evaluate the board to look for potential straight/flushes (note that some straight are impossible from the first chip choice). Then evaluate for the bottom double pair or high one.

When having a pocket hand pair pre flop higher than all value on the table, fight for the highest token.

When hitting top pair (the pair from the highest value on the table) take the highest token. You could insist once depending of first chip choice.

When hitting middle pair, take the second highest token if that's an increase from the first round. If it's the same value or below, wait for others choices. Note that it's possible that you took the highest token twice. On that case, others doesn't know you hit a pair, and you should take in consideration for future rounds.

When hitting bottom pair, wait for others choices, and then put yourself the lowest between those which improved.

When hitting nothing while I like taking a token 1 or 2 below my first chip if nobody react, though many people ask in chat for people to never do it and take instead the same token than the previous round. Your hand can only decreate in value with 2 pairs on the board or with 1 pair and goes from double pair to 'single pair' (read the third to last section for more informations).

== Turn and River advices ==
That card start to be really situationnal.

If that new card open straight and flushes, nearly any hand could goes for the highest chip immediately. Even if you got a double pair you should be careful about fighting for this highest token. Take into consideration how many straight and flushes there is. If it's really few (1 or 2) then the player which hit those should insist a lot for the highest token. That mean with a slightly weaker hand (like double pair) you could try to insist for 6. On the contrary if there is lots of straight and flushes (4 or 9+), take a lower chip more easily.

If that new card is above all others cards a new pair most likely put yourself as the best or second best hand, so take a really high chip.

If that new card is around the same value of others, take an higher chip, and let others decide where they put yourself. They know which pair you got but you don't know which pair they got.

If that new card is below all others cards, put yourself as the higher chip between those which never improved.

Note that pocket pairs can rank weirdly.

Finally at the River, the nuts (highest possible hand) should insist a lot for the highest token since there is nothing to lose. Knowing that, the second best hand can do the same. The third best hand can do the same but show weakness once after the fight while still showing they want the best token. Going lower than that is much trickier, especially for flushes board.

== Correcting mistakes ==
If you or someone else made a mistake that can easily be confusing.

It can be corrected naturally by someone hitting a pair, or even rarely with two pockets pairs by someone else hitting a pair.

If it's obvious what is happening you could try to correct it immediately (post flop), especially if there was some fight pre flop.

But I would advise you to let everything goes as planned, and in the final turn, still take your normal chip if the river can be confusing, and after everyone is happy with their chip, fight for the potential mistake which happened earlier. That's because when doing that, it look like to others that you hit a pair, which is extremely confusing.

== Differents ways of stealing a chip ==
Let's assume you could want the chip above you. You have a lot of ways to convey information when stealing a chip (from strongest to weakest):

- '''stealing the chip one above the one you want, put it back on the table, and steal the chip you want:''' this is often after you took too much time to react: this steal is even stronger that the default one, because you said to that other player that you are coming from the lower end of the chip above.

- '''stealing the chip:''' that's the default move

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table and waiting:''' that way is the most neutral one. You just give the decision to the other player/assume they got more informations than you. Preflop, that's normally after a fight, and you give them one last chance to be below you, and then you take the other one. Alternatively, it could mean that you want more time to think about the situation. If after a while, you take the lower or highest chip that's again some information (neutral+ or neutral-)

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table, and immediately taking the lowest one:''' that one is the weakest one. Usually by doing that you ask that other to double check what happenned earlier/confirm they really want that token. Alternatively, you could have seen that something isn't right, and want to show it to the other player, and let them decide to correct it or not. Sometimes you hit a pair, showed it post flop, the turn come with the lowest card of the table and another player take your chip because they seem to have hit a pair, so you do it while not showing extra strength.

Outside of that situation you can:

- steal the token of two others players and take back your own token if you think something isn't right between them

- take the tokens per example of everyone which hitted a pair, to put them back on the table and ask everyone to choose again

- if something is really not right (like you took the highest chip pre flop, and someone else who hit a pair is sure you hitted a pair, and don't let you be under them), you can pick some tokens completely out of place. Per example if you are fighting for 3/4/5, you can take the 1, put it back, and take the 3. That's an extremely strong sign you didn't hit that pair because you will make players with chips 1&2 being confused, so it's for emergency only.

==Full range and average hand pre-flop ==
This cheat sheet map recommended pre‑flop chips depending of the number of players. Use this at the table as a compact reference. Pairs are above all. All picks are '''rank‑only''' (no suits). Connector (7&8 of diamond) has no value.

''Note that even if the numbers are mathematiquely coherent, since pairs can often more easily be differenciated from A high, you could want to lower slightly the highest range. And the ranges shouldn't be uniform, the lower ranges should take more hands since there is an higher chance they doesn't matter (per example J2/J3/J4 are identical unless two of those kickers appear on the table).''

Finally, note that this sheet is only without context. It's great to know where you should put your hand initially. As soon as some player(s) take any chip(s), the value of that sheet fall pretty fast.

'''This sheet assume that there will be the same amount of players going for every chip''' (1326 possible hands)(22100 with 3 cards hand).
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!3 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|16.67%
|median 1 hand
|7/5
|T/4/2
|-
|33.33%
|between 1/2 chips
|9/8
|J/T/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 2 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|66.67%
|between 2/3 chips
|K/2
|A/7/2
|-
|83.33%
|median 3 hand
|A/5
|2/2/7
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!4 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|12,5%
|median 1 hand
|7/2
|9/6/4
|-
|25%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/7
|J/4/3
|-
|37.5%
|median 2 hand
|T/5
|Q/6/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 2/3 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|62,5%
|median 3 hand
|Q/8
|K/Q/7
|-
|75%
|between 3/4 chips
|K/9
|A/J/4
|-
|87,5%
|median 4 hand
|A/8
|5/5/T
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!5 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|T%
|median 1 hand
|6/4
|8/7/6
|-
|20%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/3
|T/7/5
|-
|30%
|median 2 hand
|9/5
|J/8/6
|-
|40%
|between 2/3 chips
|T/7
|Q/8/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 3 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|60%
|between 3/4 chips
|Q/6
|K/J/8
|-
|70%
|median 4 hand
|K/5
|A/9/2
|-
|80%
|between 4/5 chips
|A/2
|A/K/3
|-
|90%
|median 5 hand
|A/T
|7/7/9
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!6 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|8,33%
|median 1 hand
|6/2
|8/6/4
|-
|16,67%
|between 1/2 chips
|7/5
|T/4/2
|-
|25%
|median 2 hand
|8/7
|J/4/3
|-
|33,33%
|between 2/3 chips
|9/8
|J/T/5
|-
|41,67%
|median 3 hand
|T/8
|Q/9/4
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 3/4 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|58,33%
|median 4 hand
|Q/5
|K/J/2
|-
|66,67%
|between 4/5 chips
|K/2
|A/7/2
|-
|75%
|median 5 hand
|K/9
|A/J/4
|-
|83,33%
|between 5/6 chips
|A/5
|2/2/7
|-
|91,67%
|median 6 hand
|A/J
|8/8/Q
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}

*''There was before another column which put an equal amount of combinaisons for every chip, but the 3 cards hand with it was way too out of place: A62 being median hand, and 337 being between chip 4 and 5 at 6 players was so unnatural.''

== Double pairs on the table (and single pair) ==
When there is two pairs on the table, and you hit nothing, only your highest card count.

That mean per example with a board JJ447, and you having A6, you can play that hand as if it was A2. That mean that if there was a fight earlier and you suspect someone else having better than you, you can play your hand as if it was A2 instead of A6. If that player got A8 or KQ, they could react differently.

In that same example if you got 62, you can take the lowest chip even if you highly suspect someone else has lower than you, because your hand will be JJ447 anyway.

But the most important thing is '''pocket pairs'''. If you got 22, and the second 4 arrived in the river, then '''while your hand was probably the best one pre flop''', still was good post flop and after the turn, '''it became the worst one after the river''' because you don't have a triple pair, you have the lowest possible hand: JJ447. That mean that an 82 which probably took 1 or 2 pre flop is now beating you. And so you should fight for the 1 and insist a lot since it's often not obvious for others players.

If you didn't understood that, you take your best 5 cards to create your hand. That mean that AJ99752 has the same value than AJ99743: they both use AJ997 to do their best hand.

If there is no pair on the board, and you have two pairs, then you should be high. When an unrelated pair come in the flop, now everyone which previously got one pair got the same combinaison than you (or 3 of a kind). That mean that now you should rank yourself as the best of your two pairs, which could mean going down even if others didn't improved.

== 4 cards of the same color on the table ==
'Obviously' on that kind of board, what you should be doing shift completely. Per example with 4 diamonds, we now ask you to rank yourself from the highest diamond card to the lowest diamond card. A hand with an Ace of spade and a 2 of diamond is now weaker than a 4 of spade and a 3 of diamond.

You first should put attention to which player potentially have 2 diamonds on their hand, it's more likely than their highest diamond card is high.

And then pay attention to potential flush house and straight, and good luck, it's like a situational pre flop situation.

If you hit nothing, don't hesitate to goes really low.
== Very strong connectors (advanced) ==
We arrived at the end of the guide, so let's have some fun and talk again of connectors which got normally no value.

KQ is normally worst than A2, but there is lots of value of having various hand in all chips (that's why putting pairs not at the highest amount preflop have a really positive aspect too).

So if you play KQ as if you got A7, you will end up by having a KQ between two others hands with aces. When on the flop arrive one card between A, K, Q, and the low value of ace, then the problem will be resolved, and one hand will be far stronger.

The great upside is that when you compare KQ with KJ or KT, KQ will be a lot overvalued, so there will be no hesitation on which player got the better hand.

Though, on the rares cases where you got none of those cards in the table, you will need to correct your position post river, which is a great downside too.

Finally, if both A and K come during the flop, again I would advise to correct post river, that's pretty much the same problem.

Now, if you start doing the same with KJ, you lose a lot of the value, because now comparing KQ and KJ will be really difficult.

I though about doing the same with A2 but the opposing way, but the problem with that is that if a flop J62 or J92 come, others would likely put yourself into a hand K6 or K9 which is pretty bad. You have much less control of middle and bottom pair compared to top pair. So I don't like doing that: play A2 as A2.

About others very strong connectors (T9, JT, QJ) I'm fine with playing them slightly higher (J5, Q5, K5). But the difference is far lower: you don't want to give them too much value and make others think you regularly hit a different pair post flop.

Tips thegang

2026-06-12T10:10:57Z

Romain672: /* Full range and average hand pre-flop */ T0% => 100%

''The following tips aren’t set-in-stone rules, but are meant to give you an idea of how communication works in this game. As a group, figure out for yourselves how you’d like to communicate best without discussing your hand.''

Do not be afraid to '''take chips away''' from other players. This is exactly how you communicate the quality of your own hand and help others to categorize you. The more the chips move, the more communication takes place.

Always evaluate the '''current state''', not how good it might still become.
'''1st Phase''': Having a pair from the start: take a high number (and higher than your first chip), otherwise evaluate the rank of your High Card.
'''From 2nd Phase''': If something was revealed in this phase that increases your rating, take a higher (or at least equally high) chip than in the previous round. This allows fellow players to draw conclusions about your specific card values.
Conversely: If nothing fitting your hand was revealed, take the same chip of the previous round, but adapt to others players choices.

== Introduction ==
This is a concise ''strategy guide'' for ''The Gang'' focused on **rank‑only** chip selection. It defines a simple, repeatable convention for mapping numbered chips to rank percentiles.

== Core conventions to adopt ==
* '''Establish a ranking convention.''' Map each chip number to a clear percentile bucket so everyone interprets chip choices the same way.
* '''Conservative default.''' On the pre‑flop stage, default to slightly conservative picks and only escalate when community cards materially change the actual hand strength.
* '''Controlled chip theft.''' Taking another player’s chip is the only legal private signal—use it to correct obvious misrankings, not to bluff.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.''' Pre‑flop picks are based on ranks only; suitedness and flush/straight potential are ignored for the initial ranking.
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking a chip quickly signals a stronger rank; taking time to pick a chip, or picking then returning a chip, signals a weaker rank.
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.''' Base your pre‑flop chip choice exclusively on the two ranks in your hand.

== Simple interpertation pre flop ==
When suits are ignored, here is what all chips initially have (you have the exact hand at the middle of the page):

*Treat any pocket pair as better than any other hand: 22>AK
* Suits has no value.
* Connectors (7&8 of diamonds) has no value.
* Timing as a soft signal post flop: Picking quickly = stronger; taking time = weaker
* No talk; use chips to correct.
* Don't put value on speculative hands.
* The median hand is around J8.

{| class="wikitable"
!Chips
!6 players
!5 players
!4 players
!3 players
|-
|6
|pairs / A high
|
|
|
|-
|5
|A low / K
|pairs / A
|
|
|-
|4
|Q / J high
|K / Q high
|pairs / A
|
|-
|3
|J low / T
|Q low / J
|K / Q
|pairs / A / K
|-
|2
|9 / 8
|T / 9 / 8
|J / T / 9
|Q / J / T
|-
|1
|7
|7
|8 / 7
|9 / 8 / 7
|}
For 6 players put 1.5 categories in each chips starting highest, pairs counting for 1.

For 5 players do the same but pairs count for 0,5.

For 4 players put 2 categories in each chip starting highest.

For 3 players put 3 categories in each chip starting highest.

You end up with only chip 2 being slightly out of place.

.

Note that if you play as group, you can play with any table of your choice, and simplify this table (putting all non kicker at the same chip) would be better for everyone. But the table here is to play with any player on bga which haven't read any table.

== Poker mindset ==
If you are coming from Poker, you really should change your mind on some things:

Colors has no value until you hit your flush. If you start putting value to them, others with a 97 hand will have no way to compare 96s & 98o.

Connectors has no value too else that become fastly confusing. Start by taking experience and know what you are doing before maybe putting very minor value to them.

Many top players put their pairs in the highest token possible: 22>AK. Note that it's possible too to put pairs as their real value pre flop (88=middle chip), but if you do that you must put yourself at the right place post flop.
== Pre flop advice ==
If you fight a lot for some tokens, the most important part is the first choice of every player. If someone started 3 and is fighting for 4, and everyone else started 4 or more, high chance they should be take the 1 instead.
== Post flop advices ==
When hitting a double pair or better fight for the highest token. After someone steal it twice/thrice from you re-evaluate the board to look for potential straight/flushes (note that some straight are impossible from the first chip choice). Then evaluate for the bottom double pair or high one.

When having a pocket hand pair pre flop higher than all value on the table, fight for the highest token.

When hitting top pair (the pair from the highest value on the table) take the highest token. You could insist once depending of first chip choice.

When hitting middle pair, take the second highest token if that's an increase from the first round. If it's the same value or below, wait for others choices. Note that it's possible that you took the highest token twice. On that case, others doesn't know you hit a pair, and you should take in consideration for future rounds.

When hitting bottom pair, wait for others choices, and then put yourself the lowest between those which improved.

When hitting nothing while I like taking a token 1 or 2 below my first chip if nobody react, though many people ask in chat for people to never do it and take instead the same token than the previous round. Your hand can only decreate in value with 2 pairs on the board or with 1 pair and goes from double pair to 'single pair' (read the third to last section for more informations).

== Turn and River advices ==
That card start to be really situationnal.

If that new card open straight and flushes, nearly any hand could goes for the highest chip immediately. Even if you got a double pair you should be careful about fighting for this highest token. Take into consideration how many straight and flushes there is. If it's really few (1 or 2) then the player which hit those should insist a lot for the highest token. That mean with a slightly weaker hand (like double pair) you could try to insist for 6. On the contrary if there is lots of straight and flushes (4 or 9+), take a lower chip more easily.

If that new card is above all others cards a new pair most likely put yourself as the best or second best hand, so take a really high chip.

If that new card is around the same value of others, take an higher chip, and let others decide where they put yourself. They know which pair you got but you don't know which pair they got.

If that new card is below all others cards, put yourself as the higher chip between those which never improved.

Note that pocket pairs can rank weirdly.

Finally at the River, the nuts (highest possible hand) should insist a lot for the highest token since there is nothing to lose. Knowing that, the second best hand can do the same. The third best hand can do the same but show weakness once after the fight while still showing they want the best token. Going lower than that is much trickier, especially for flushes board.

== Correcting mistakes ==
If you or someone else made a mistake that can easily be confusing.

It can be corrected naturally by someone hitting a pair, or even rarely with two pockets pairs by someone else hitting a pair.

If it's obvious what is happening you could try to correct it immediately (post flop), especially if there was some fight pre flop.

But I would advise you to let everything goes as planned, and in the final turn, still take your normal chip if the river can be confusing, and after everyone is happy with their chip, fight for the potential mistake which happened earlier. That's because when doing that, it look like to others that you hit a pair, which is extremely confusing.

== Differents ways of stealing a chip ==
Let's assume you could want the chip above you. You have a lot of ways to convey information when stealing a chip (from strongest to weakest):

- '''stealing the chip one above the one you want, put it back on the table, and steal the chip you want:''' this is often after you took too much time to react: this steal is even stronger that the default one, because you said to that other player that you are coming from the lower end of the chip above.

- '''stealing the chip:''' that's the default move

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table and waiting:''' that way is the most neutral one. You just give the decision to the other player/assume they got more informations than you. Preflop, that's normally after a fight, and you give them one last chance to be below you, and then you take the other one. Alternatively, it could mean that you want more time to think about the situation. If after a while, you take the lower or highest chip that's again some information (neutral+ or neutral-)

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table, and immediately taking the lowest one:''' that one is the weakest one. Usually by doing that you ask that other to double check what happenned earlier/confirm they really want that token. Alternatively, you could have seen that something isn't right, and want to show it to the other player, and let them decide to correct it or not. Sometimes you hit a pair, showed it post flop, the turn come with the lowest card of the table and another player take your chip because they seem to have hit a pair, so you do it while not showing extra strength.

Outside of that situation you can:

- steal the token of two others players and take back your own token if you think something isn't right between them

- take the tokens per example of everyone which hitted a pair, to put them back on the table and ask everyone to choose again

- if something is really not right (like you took the highest chip pre flop, and someone else who hit a pair is sure you hitted a pair, and don't let you be under them), you can pick some tokens completely out of place. Per example if you are fighting for 3/4/5, you can take the 1, put it back, and take the 3. That's an extremely strong sign you didn't hit that pair because you will make players with chips 1&2 being confused, so it's for emergency only.

==Full range and average hand pre-flop ==
This cheat sheet map recommended pre‑flop chips depending of the number of players. Use this at the table as a compact reference. Pairs are above all. All picks are '''rank‑only''' (no suits). Connector (7&8 of diamond) has no value.

''Note that even if the numbers are mathematiquely coherent, since pairs can often more easily be differenciated from A high, you could want to lower slightly the highest range. And the ranges shouldn't be uniform, the lower ranges should take more hands since there is an higher chance they doesn't matter (per example J2/J3/J4 are identical unless two of those kickers appear on the table).''

Finally, note that this sheet is only without context. It's great to know where you should put your hand initially. As soon as some player(s) take any chip(s), the value of that sheet fall pretty fast.

'''This sheet assume that there will be the same amount of players going for every chip''' (1326 possible hands)(22100 with 3 cards hand).
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!3 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|16.67%
|median 1 hand
|7/5
|T/4/2
|-
|33.33%
|between 1/2 chips
|9/8
|J/T/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 2 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|66.67%
|between 2/3 chips
|K/2
|A/7/2
|-
|83.33%
|median 3 hand
|A/5
|2/2/7
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!4 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|12,5%
|median 1 hand
|7/2
|T/5/5
|-
|25%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/7
|J/4/3
|-
|37.5%
|median 2 hand
|T/5
|Q/6/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 2/3 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|62,5%
|median 3 hand
|Q/8
|K/Q/7
|-
|75%
|between 3/4 chips
|K/9
|A/J/4
|-
|87,5%
|median 4 hand
|A/8
|5/5/T
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!5 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|T%
|median 1 hand
|6/4
|8/7/6
|-
|20%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/3
|T/7/5
|-
|30%
|median 2 hand
|9/5
|J/8/6
|-
|40%
|between 2/3 chips
|T/7
|Q/8/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 3 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|60%
|between 3/4 chips
|Q/6
|K/J/8
|-
|70%
|median 4 hand
|K/5
|A/9/2
|-
|80%
|between 4/5 chips
|A/2
|A/K/3
|-
|90%
|median 5 hand
|A/T
|7/7/9
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!6 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|8,33%
|median 1 hand
|6/2
|8/6/4
|-
|16,67%
|between 1/2 chips
|7/5
|T/4/2
|-
|25%
|median 2 hand
|8/7
|J/4/3
|-
|33,33%
|between 2/3 chips
|9/8
|J/T/5
|-
|41,67%
|median 3 hand
|T/8
|Q/9/4
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 3/4 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|58,33%
|median 4 hand
|Q/5
|K/J/2
|-
|66,67%
|between 4/5 chips
|K/2
|A/7/2
|-
|75%
|median 5 hand
|K/9
|A/J/4
|-
|83,33%
|between 5/6 chips
|A/5
|2/2/7
|-
|91,67%
|median 6 hand
|A/J
|8/8/Q
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}

*''There was before another column which put an equal amount of combinaisons for every chip, but the 3 cards hand with it was way too out of place: A62 being median hand, and 337 being between chip 4 and 5 at 6 players was so unnatural.''

== Double pairs on the table (and single pair) ==
When there is two pairs on the table, and you hit nothing, only your highest card count.

That mean per example with a board JJ447, and you having A6, you can play that hand as if it was A2. That mean that if there was a fight earlier and you suspect someone else having better than you, you can play your hand as if it was A2 instead of A6. If that player got A8 or KQ, they could react differently.

In that same example if you got 62, you can take the lowest chip even if you highly suspect someone else has lower than you, because your hand will be JJ447 anyway.

But the most important thing is '''pocket pairs'''. If you got 22, and the second 4 arrived in the river, then '''while your hand was probably the best one pre flop''', still was good post flop and after the turn, '''it became the worst one after the river''' because you don't have a triple pair, you have the lowest possible hand: JJ447. That mean that an 82 which probably took 1 or 2 pre flop is now beating you. And so you should fight for the 1 and insist a lot since it's often not obvious for others players.

If you didn't understood that, you take your best 5 cards to create your hand. That mean that AJ99752 has the same value than AJ99743: they both use AJ997 to do their best hand.

If there is no pair on the board, and you have two pairs, then you should be high. When an unrelated pair come in the flop, now everyone which previously got one pair got the same combinaison than you (or 3 of a kind). That mean that now you should rank yourself as the best of your two pairs, which could mean going down even if others didn't improved.

== 4 cards of the same color on the table ==
'Obviously' on that kind of board, what you should be doing shift completely. Per example with 4 diamonds, we now ask you to rank yourself from the highest diamond card to the lowest diamond card. A hand with an Ace of spade and a 2 of diamond is now weaker than a 4 of spade and a 3 of diamond.

You first should put attention to which player potentially have 2 diamonds on their hand, it's more likely than their highest diamond card is high.

And then pay attention to potential flush house and straight, and good luck, it's like a situational pre flop situation.

If you hit nothing, don't hesitate to goes really low.
== Very strong connectors (advanced) ==
We arrived at the end of the guide, so let's have some fun and talk again of connectors which got normally no value.

KQ is normally worst than A2, but there is lots of value of having various hand in all chips (that's why putting pairs not at the highest amount preflop have a really positive aspect too).

So if you play KQ as if you got A7, you will end up by having a KQ between two others hands with aces. When on the flop arrive one card between A, K, Q, and the low value of ace, then the problem will be resolved, and one hand will be far stronger.

The great upside is that when you compare KQ with KJ or KT, KQ will be a lot overvalued, so there will be no hesitation on which player got the better hand.

Though, on the rares cases where you got none of those cards in the table, you will need to correct your position post river, which is a great downside too.

Finally, if both A and K come during the flop, again I would advise to correct post river, that's pretty much the same problem.

Now, if you start doing the same with KJ, you lose a lot of the value, because now comparing KQ and KJ will be really difficult.

I though about doing the same with A2 but the opposing way, but the problem with that is that if a flop J62 or J92 come, others would likely put yourself into a hand K6 or K9 which is pretty bad. You have much less control of middle and bottom pair compared to top pair. So I don't like doing that: play A2 as A2.

About others very strong connectors (T9, JT, QJ) I'm fine with playing them slightly higher (J5, Q5, K5). But the difference is far lower: you don't want to give them too much value and make others think you regularly hit a different pair post flop.

Tips thegang

2026-06-11T08:28:27Z

Romain672: Chainging 10 by T, correcting some mistakes, added a last sentence

''The following tips aren’t set-in-stone rules, but are meant to give you an idea of how communication works in this game. As a group, figure out for yourselves how you’d like to communicate best without discussing your hand.''

Do not be afraid to '''take chips away''' from other players. This is exactly how you communicate the quality of your own hand and help others to categorize you. The more the chips move, the more communication takes place.

Always evaluate the '''current state''', not how good it might still become.
'''1st Phase''': Having a pair from the start: take a high number (and higher than your first chip), otherwise evaluate the rank of your High Card.
'''From 2nd Phase''': If something was revealed in this phase that increases your rating, take a higher (or at least equally high) chip than in the previous round. This allows fellow players to draw conclusions about your specific card values.
Conversely: If nothing fitting your hand was revealed, take the same chip of the previous round, but adapt to others players choices.

== Introduction ==
This is a concise ''strategy guide'' for ''The Gang'' focused on **rank‑only** chip selection. It defines a simple, repeatable convention for mapping numbered chips to rank percentiles.

== Core conventions to adopt ==
* '''Establish a ranking convention.''' Map each chip number to a clear percentile bucket so everyone interprets chip choices the same way.
* '''Conservative default.''' On the pre‑flop stage, default to slightly conservative picks and only escalate when community cards materially change the actual hand strength.
* '''Controlled chip theft.''' Taking another player’s chip is the only legal private signal—use it to correct obvious misrankings, not to bluff.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.''' Pre‑flop picks are based on ranks only; suitedness and flush/straight potential are ignored for the initial ranking.
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking a chip quickly signals a stronger rank; taking time to pick a chip, or picking then returning a chip, signals a weaker rank.
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.''' Base your pre‑flop chip choice exclusively on the two ranks in your hand.

== Simple interpertation pre flop ==
When suits are ignored, here is what all chips initially have (you have the exact hand at the middle of the page):

*Treat any pocket pair as better than any other hand: 22>AK
* Suits has no value.
* Connectors (7&8 of diamonds) has no value.
* Timing as a soft signal post flop: Picking quickly = stronger; taking time = weaker
* No talk; use chips to correct.
* Don't put value on speculative hands.
* The median hand is around J8.

{| class="wikitable"
!Chips
!6 players
!5 players
!4 players
!3 players
|-
|6
|pairs / A high
|
|
|
|-
|5
|A low / K
|pairs / A
|
|
|-
|4
|Q / J high
|K / Q high
|pairs / A
|
|-
|3
|J low / T
|Q low / J
|K / Q
|pairs / A / K
|-
|2
|9 / 8
|T / 9 / 8
|J / T / 9
|Q / J / T
|-
|1
|7
|7
|8 / 7
|9 / 8 / 7
|}
For 6 players put 1.5 categories in each chips starting highest, pairs counting for 1.

For 5 players do the same but pairs count for 0,5.

For 4 players put 2 categories in each chip starting highest.

For 3 players put 3 categories in each chip starting highest.

You end up with only chip 2 being slightly out of place.

.

Note that if you play as group, you can play with any table of your choice, and simplify this table (putting all non kicker at the same chip) would be better for everyone. But the table here is to play with any player on bga which haven't read any table.

== Poker mindset ==
If you are coming from Poker, you really should change your mind on some things:

Colors has no value until you hit your flush. If you start putting value to them, others with a 97 hand will have no way to compare 96s & 98o.

Connectors has no value too else that become fastly confusing. Start by taking experience and know what you are doing before maybe putting very minor value to them.

Many top players put their pairs in the highest token possible: 22>AK. Note that it's possible too to put pairs as their real value pre flop (88=middle chip), but if you do that you must put yourself at the right place post flop.
== Pre flop advice ==
If you fight a lot for some tokens, the most important part is the first choice of every player. If someone started 3 and is fighting for 4, and everyone else started 4 or more, high chance they should be take the 1 instead.
== Post flop advices ==
When hitting a double pair or better fight for the highest token. After someone steal it twice/thrice from you re-evaluate the board to look for potential straight/flushes (note that some straight are impossible from the first chip choice). Then evaluate for the bottom double pair or high one.

When having a pocket hand pair pre flop higher than all value on the table, fight for the highest token.

When hitting top pair (the pair from the highest value on the table) take the highest token. You could insist once depending of first chip choice.

When hitting middle pair, take the second highest token if that's an increase from the first round. If it's the same value or below, wait for others choices. Note that it's possible that you took the highest token twice. On that case, others doesn't know you hit a pair, and you should take in consideration for future rounds.

When hitting bottom pair, wait for others choices, and then put yourself the lowest between those which improved.

When hitting nothing while I like taking a token 1 or 2 below my first chip if nobody react, though many people ask in chat for people to never do it and take instead the same token than the previous round. Your hand can only decreate in value with 2 pairs on the board or with 1 pair and goes from double pair to 'single pair' (read the third to last section for more informations).

== Turn and River advices ==
That card start to be really situationnal.

If that new card open straight and flushes, nearly any hand could goes for the highest chip immediately. Even if you got a double pair you should be careful about fighting for this highest token. Take into consideration how many straight and flushes there is. If it's really few (1 or 2) then the player which hit those should insist a lot for the highest token. That mean with a slightly weaker hand (like double pair) you could try to insist for 6. On the contrary if there is lots of straight and flushes (4 or 9+), take a lower chip more easily.

If that new card is above all others cards a new pair most likely put yourself as the best or second best hand, so take a really high chip.

If that new card is around the same value of others, take an higher chip, and let others decide where they put yourself. They know which pair you got but you don't know which pair they got.

If that new card is below all others cards, put yourself as the higher chip between those which never improved.

Note that pocket pairs can rank weirdly.

Finally at the River, the nuts (highest possible hand) should insist a lot for the highest token since there is nothing to lose. Knowing that, the second best hand can do the same. The third best hand can do the same but show weakness once after the fight while still showing they want the best token. Going lower than that is much trickier, especially for flushes board.

== Correcting mistakes ==
If you or someone else made a mistake that can easily be confusing.

It can be corrected naturally by someone hitting a pair, or even rarely with two pockets pairs by someone else hitting a pair.

If it's obvious what is happening you could try to correct it immediately (post flop), especially if there was some fight pre flop.

But I would advise you to let everything goes as planned, and in the final turn, still take your normal chip if the river can be confusing, and after everyone is happy with their chip, fight for the potential mistake which happened earlier. That's because when doing that, it look like to others that you hit a pair, which is extremely confusing.

== Differents ways of stealing a chip ==
Let's assume you could want the chip above you. You have a lot of ways to convey information when stealing a chip (from strongest to weakest):

- '''stealing the chip one above the one you want, put it back on the table, and steal the chip you want:''' this is often after you took too much time to react: this steal is even stronger that the default one, because you said to that other player that you are coming from the lower end of the chip above.

- '''stealing the chip:''' that's the default move

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table and waiting:''' that way is the most neutral one. You just give the decision to the other player/assume they got more informations than you. Preflop, that's normally after a fight, and you give them one last chance to be below you, and then you take the other one. Alternatively, it could mean that you want more time to think about the situation. If after a while, you take the lower or highest chip that's again some information (neutral+ or neutral-)

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table, and immediately taking the lowest one:''' that one is the weakest one. Usually by doing that you ask that other to double check what happenned earlier/confirm they really want that token. Alternatively, you could have seen that something isn't right, and want to show it to the other player, and let them decide to correct it or not. Sometimes you hit a pair, showed it post flop, the turn come with the lowest card of the table and another player take your chip because they seem to have hit a pair, so you do it while not showing extra strength.

Outside of that situation you can:

- steal the token of two others players and take back your own token if you think something isn't right between them

- take the tokens per example of everyone which hitted a pair, to put them back on the table and ask everyone to choose again

- if something is really not right (like you took the highest chip pre flop, and someone else who hit a pair is sure you hitted a pair, and don't let you be under them), you can pick some tokens completely out of place. Per example if you are fighting for 3/4/5, you can take the 1, put it back, and take the 3. That's an extremely strong sign you didn't hit that pair because you will make players with chips 1&2 being confused, so it's for emergency only.

==Full range and average hand pre-flop ==
This cheat sheet map recommended pre‑flop chips depending of the number of players. Use this at the table as a compact reference. Pairs are above all. All picks are '''rank‑only''' (no suits). Connector (7&8 of diamond) has no value.

''Note that even if the numbers are mathematiquely coherent, since pairs can often more easily be differenciated from A high, you could want to lower slightly the highest range. And the ranges shouldn't be uniform, the lower ranges should take more hands since there is an higher chance they doesn't matter (per example J2/J3/J4 are identical unless two of those kickers appear on the table).''

Finally, note that this sheet is only without context. It's great to know where you should put your hand initially. As soon as some player(s) take any chip(s), the value of that sheet fall pretty fast.

'''This sheet assume that there will be the same amount of players going for every chip''' (1326 possible hands)(22100 with 3 cards hand).
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!3 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|16.67%
|median 1 hand
|7/5
|T/4/2
|-
|33.33%
|between 1/2 chips
|9/8
|J/T/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 2 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|66.67%
|between 2/3 chips
|K/2
|A/7/2
|-
|83.33%
|median 3 hand
|A/5
|2/2/7
|-
|T0%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!4 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|12,5%
|median 1 hand
|7/2
|T/5/5
|-
|25%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/7
|J/4/3
|-
|37.5%
|median 2 hand
|T/5
|Q/6/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 2/3 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|62,5%
|median 3 hand
|Q/8
|K/Q/7
|-
|75%
|between 3/4 chips
|K/9
|A/J/4
|-
|87,5%
|median 4 hand
|A/8
|5/5/T
|-
|T0%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!5 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|T%
|median 1 hand
|6/4
|8/7/6
|-
|20%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/3
|T/7/5
|-
|30%
|median 2 hand
|9/5
|J/8/6
|-
|40%
|between 2/3 chips
|T/7
|Q/8/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 3 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|60%
|between 3/4 chips
|Q/6
|K/J/8
|-
|70%
|median 4 hand
|K/5
|A/9/2
|-
|80%
|between 4/5 chips
|A/2
|A/K/3
|-
|90%
|median 5 hand
|A/T
|7/7/9
|-
|T0%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!6 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|8,33%
|median 1 hand
|6/2
|8/6/4
|-
|16,67%
|between 1/2 chips
|7/5
|T/4/2
|-
|25%
|median 2 hand
|8/7
|J/4/3
|-
|33,33%
|between 2/3 chips
|9/8
|J/T/5
|-
|41,67%
|median 3 hand
|T/8
|Q/9/4
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 3/4 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|58,33%
|median 4 hand
|Q/5
|K/J/2
|-
|66,67%
|between 4/5 chips
|K/2
|A/7/2
|-
|75%
|median 5 hand
|K/9
|A/J/4
|-
|83,33%
|between 5/6 chips
|A/5
|2/2/7
|-
|91,67%
|median 6 hand
|A/J
|8/8/Q
|-
|T0%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}

*''There was before another column which put an equal amount of combinaisons for every chip, but the 3 cards hand with it was way too out of place: A62 being median hand, and 337 being between chip 4 and 5 at 6 players was so unnatural.''

== Double pairs on the table (and single pair) ==
When there is two pairs on the table, and you hit nothing, only your highest card count.

That mean per example with a board JJ447, and you having A6, you can play that hand as if it was A2. That mean that if there was a fight earlier and you suspect someone else having better than you, you can play your hand as if it was A2 instead of A6. If that player got A8 or KQ, they could react differently.

In that same example if you got 62, you can take the lowest chip even if you highly suspect someone else has lower than you, because your hand will be JJ447 anyway.

But the most important thing is '''pocket pairs'''. If you got 22, and the second 4 arrived in the river, then '''while your hand was probably the best one pre flop''', still was good post flop and after the turn, '''it became the worst one after the river''' because you don't have a triple pair, you have the lowest possible hand: JJ447. That mean that an 82 which probably took 1 or 2 pre flop is now beating you. And so you should fight for the 1 and insist a lot since it's often not obvious for others players.

If you didn't understood that, you take your best 5 cards to create your hand. That mean that AJ99752 has the same value than AJ99743: they both use AJ997 to do their best hand.

If there is no pair on the board, and you have two pairs, then you should be high. When an unrelated pair come in the flop, now everyone which previously got one pair got the same combinaison than you (or 3 of a kind). That mean that now you should rank yourself as the best of your two pairs, which could mean going down even if others didn't improved.

== 4 cards of the same color on the table ==
'Obviously' on that kind of board, what you should be doing shift completely. Per example with 4 diamonds, we now ask you to rank yourself from the highest diamond card to the lowest diamond card. A hand with an Ace of spade and a 2 of diamond is now weaker than a 4 of spade and a 3 of diamond.

You first should put attention to which player potentially have 2 diamonds on their hand, it's more likely than their highest diamond card is high.

And then pay attention to potential flush house and straight, and good luck, it's like a situational pre flop situation.

If you hit nothing, don't hesitate to goes really low.
== Very strong connectors (advanced) ==
We arrived at the end of the guide, so let's have some fun and talk again of connectors which got normally no value.

KQ is normally worst than A2, but there is lots of value of having various hand in all chips (that's why putting pairs not at the highest amount preflop have a really positive aspect too).

So if you play KQ as if you got A7, you will end up by having a KQ between two others hands with aces. When on the flop arrive one card between A, K, Q, and the low value of ace, then the problem will be resolved, and one hand will be far stronger.

The great upside is that when you compare KQ with KJ or KT, KQ will be a lot overvalued, so there will be no hesitation on which player got the better hand.

Though, on the rares cases where you got none of those cards in the table, you will need to correct your position post river, which is a great downside too.

Finally, if both A and K come during the flop, again I would advise to correct post river, that's pretty much the same problem.

Now, if you start doing the same with KJ, you lose a lot of the value, because now comparing KQ and KJ will be really difficult.

I though about doing the same with A2 but the opposing way, but the problem with that is that if a flop J62 or J92 come, others would likely put yourself into a hand K6 or K9 which is pretty bad. You have much less control of middle and bottom pair compared to top pair. So I don't like doing that: play A2 as A2.

About others very strong connectors (T9, JT, QJ) I'm fine with playing them slightly higher (J5, Q5, K5). But the difference is far lower: you don't want to give them too much value and make others think you regularly hit a different pair post flop.

Tips thegang

2026-06-10T06:57:04Z

Romain672: /* Full range and average hand pre-flop */ more details before the sheets.

''The following tips aren’t set-in-stone rules, but are meant to give you an idea of how communication works in this game. As a group, figure out for yourselves how you’d like to communicate best without discussing your hand.''

Do not be afraid to '''take chips away''' from other players. This is exactly how you communicate the quality of your own hand and help others to categorize you. The more the chips move, the more communication takes place.

Always evaluate the '''current state''', not how good it might still become.
'''1st Phase''': Having a pair from the start: take a high number (and higher than your first chip), otherwise evaluate the rank of your High Card.
'''From 2nd Phase''': If something was revealed in this phase that increases your rating, take a higher (or at least equally high) chip than in the previous round. This allows fellow players to draw conclusions about your specific card values.
Conversely: If nothing fitting your hand was revealed, take the same chip of the previous round, but adapt to others players choices.

== Introduction ==
This is a concise ''strategy guide'' for ''The Gang'' focused on **rank‑only** chip selection. It defines a simple, repeatable convention for mapping numbered chips to rank percentiles.

== Core conventions to adopt ==
* '''Establish a ranking convention.''' Map each chip number to a clear percentile bucket so everyone interprets chip choices the same way.
* '''Conservative default.''' On the pre‑flop stage, default to slightly conservative picks and only escalate when community cards materially change the actual hand strength.
* '''Controlled chip theft.''' Taking another player’s chip is the only legal private signal—use it to correct obvious misrankings, not to bluff.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.''' Pre‑flop picks are based on ranks only; suitedness and flush/straight potential are ignored for the initial ranking.
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking a chip quickly signals a stronger rank; taking time to pick a chip, or picking then returning a chip, signals a weaker rank.
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.''' Base your pre‑flop chip choice exclusively on the two ranks in your hand.

== Simple interpertation pre flop ==
When suits are ignored, here is what all chips initially have (you have the exact hand at the middle of the page):

*Treat any pocket pair as better than any other hand: 22>AK
* Suits has no value.
* Connectors (7&8 of diamonds) has no value.
* Timing as a soft signal post flop: Picking quickly = stronger; taking time = weaker
* No talk; use chips to correct.
* Don't put value on speculative hands.
* The median hand is around J8.

{| class="wikitable"
!Chips
!6 players
!5 players
!4 players
!3 players
|-
|6
|pairs / A high
|
|
|
|-
|5
|A low / K
|pairs / A
|
|
|-
|4
|Q / J high
|K / Q high
|pairs / A
|
|-
|3
|J low / 10
|Q low / J
|K / Q
|pairs / A / K
|-
|2
|9 / 8
|10 / 9 / 8
|J / 10 / 9
|Q / J / 10
|-
|1
|7
|7
|8 / 7
|9 / 8 / 7
|}
For 6 players put 1.5 categories in each chips starting highest, pairs counting for 1.

For 5 players do the same but pairs count for 0,5.

For 4 players put 2 categories in each chip starting highest.

For 3 players put 3 categories in each chip starting highest.

You end up with only chip 2 being slightly out of place.

.

Note that if you play as group, you can play with any table of your choice, and simplify this table (putting all non kicker at the same chip) would be better for everyone. But the table here is to play with any player on bga which haven't read any table.

== Poker mindset ==
If you are coming from Poker, you really should change your mind on some things:

Colors has no value until you hit your flush. If you start putting value to them, others with a 97 hand will have no way to compare 96s & 98o.

Connectors has no value too else that become fastly confusing. Start by taking experience and know what you are doing before maybe putting very minor value to them.

Many top players put their pairs in the highest token possible: 22>AK. Note that it's possible too to put pairs as their real value pre flop (88=middle chip), but if you do that you must put yourself at the right place post flop.
== Pre flop advice ==
If you fight a lot for some tokens, the most important part is the first choice of every player. If someone started 3 and is fighting for 4, and everyone else started 4 or more, high chance they should be take the 1 instead.
== Post flop advices ==
When hitting a double pair or better fight for the highest token. After someone steal it twice/thrice from you re-evaluate the board to look for potential straight/flushes (note that some straight are impossible from the first chip choice). Then evaluate for the bottom double pair or high one.

When having a pocket hand pair pre flop higher than all value on the table, fight for the highest token.

When hitting top pair (the pair from the highest value on the table) take the highest token. You could insist once depending of first chip choice.

When hitting middle pair, take the second highest token if that's an increase from the first round. If it's the same value or below, wait for others choices. Note that it's possible that you took the highest token twice. On that case, others doesn't know you hit a pair, and you should take in consideration for future rounds.

When hitting bottom pair, wait for others choices, and then put yourself the lowest between those which improved.

When hitting nothing while I like taking a token 1 or 2 below my first chip if nobody react, though many people ask in chat for people to never do it and take instead the same token than the previous round. Your hand can only decreate in value with 2 pairs on the board or with 1 pair and goes from double pair to 'single pair' (read the third to last section for more informations).

== Turn and River advices ==
That card start to be really situationnal.

If that new card open straight and flushes, nearly any hand could goes for the highest chip immediately. Even if you got a double pair you should be careful about fighting for this highest token. Take into consideration how many straight and flushes there is. If it's really few (1 or 2) then the player which hit those should insist a lot for the highest token. That mean with a slightly weaker hand (like double pair) you could try to insist for 6. On the contrary if there is lots of straight and flushes (4 or 9+), take a lower chip more easily.

If that new card is above all others cards a new pair most likely put yourself as the best or second best hand, so take a really high chip.

If that new card is around the same value of others, take an higher chip, and let others decide where they put yourself. They know which pair you got but you don't know which pair they got.

If that new card is below all others cards, put yourself as the higher chip between those which never improved.

Note that pocket pairs can rank weirdly.

Finallya at the River, the nuts (highest possible hand) should insist a lot for the highest token since there is nothing to lose. Knowing that, the second best hand can do the same. The third best hand can do the same but show weakness once after the fight while still showing they want the best token. Going lower than that is much trickier, especially for flushes board.

== Correcting mistakes ==
If you or someone else made a mistake that can easily be confusing.

It can be corrected naturally by someone hitting a pair, or even rarely with two pockets pairs by someone else hitting a pair.

If it's obvious what is happening you could try to correct it immediately (post flop), especially if there was some fight pre flop.

But I would advise you to let everything goes as planned, and in the final turn, still take your normal chip if the river can be confusing, and after everyone is happy with their chip, fight for the potential mistake which happened earlier. That's because when doing that, it look like to others that you hit a pair, which is extremely confusing.

== Differents ways of stealing a chip ==
Let's assume you could want the chip above you. You have a lot of ways to convey information when stealing a chip (from strongest to weakest):

- '''stealing the chip one above the one you want, put it back on the table, and steal the chip you want:''' this is often after you took too much time to react: this steal is even stronger that the default one, because you said to that other player that you are coming from the lower end of the chip above.

- '''stealing the chip:''' that's the default move

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table and waiting:''' that way is the most neutral one. You just give the decision to the other player/assume they got more informations than you. Preflop, that's normally after a fight, and you give them one last chance to be below you, and then you take the other one. Alternatively, it could mean that you want more time to think about the situation. If after a while, you take the lower or highest chip that's again some information (neutral+ or neutral-)

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table, and immediately taking the lowest one:''' that one is the weakest one. Usually by doing that you ask that other to double check what happenned earlier/confirm they really want that token. Alternatively, you could have seen that something isn't right, and want to show it to the other player, and let them decide to correct it or not. Sometimes you hit a pair, showed it post flop, the turn come with the lowest card of the table and another player take your chip because they seem to have hit a pair, so you do it while not showing extra strength.

Outside of that situation you can:

- steal the token of two others players and take back your own token if you think something isn't right between them

- take the tokens per example of everyone which hitted a pair, to put them back on the table and ask everyone to choose again

- if something is really not right (like you took the highest chip pre flop, and someone else who hit a pair is sure you hitted a pair, and don't let you be under them), you can pick some tokens completely out of place. Per example if you are fighting for 3/4/5, you can take the 1, put it back, and take the 3. That's an extremely strong sign you didn't hit that pair because you will make players with chips 1&2 being confused, so it's for emergency only.

==Full range and average hand pre-flop ==
This cheat sheet map recommended pre‑flop chips depending of the number of players. Use this at the table as a compact reference. Pairs are above all. All picks are '''rank‑only''' (no suits). Connector (7&8 of diamond) has no value.

''Note that even if the numbers are mathematiquely coherent, since pairs can often more easily be differenciated from A high, you could want to lower slightly the highest range. And the ranges shouldn't be uniform, the lower ranges should take more hands since there is an higher chance they doesn't matter (per example J2/J3/J4 are identical unless two of those kickers appear on the table).''

Finally, note that this sheet is only without context. It's great to know where you should put your hand initially. As soon as some player(s) take any chip(s), the value of that sheet fall pretty fast.

'''This sheet assume that there will be the same amount of players going for every chip''' (1326 possible hands)(22100 with 3 cards hand).
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!3 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|16.67%
|median 1 hand
|7/5
|10/4/2
|-
|33.33%
|between 1/2 chips
|9/8
|J/10/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 2 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|66.67%
|between 2/3 chips
|K/2
|A/7/2
|-
|83.33%
|median 3 hand
|A/5
|2/2/7
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!4 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|12,5%
|median 1 hand
|7/2
|10/5/5
|-
|25%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/7
|J/4/3
|-
|37.5%
|median 2 hand
|10/5
|Q/6/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 2/3 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|62,5%
|median 3 hand
|Q/8
|K/Q/7
|-
|75%
|between 3/4 chips
|K/9
|A/J/4
|-
|87,5%
|median 4 hand
|A/8
|5/5/10
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!5 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|10%
|median 1 hand
|6/4
|8/7/6
|-
|20%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/3
|10/7/5
|-
|30%
|median 2 hand
|9/5
|J/8/6
|-
|40%
|between 2/3 chips
|10/7
|Q/8/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 3 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|60%
|between 3/4 chips
|Q/6
|K/J/8
|-
|70%
|median 4 hand
|K/5
|A/9/2
|-
|80%
|between 4/5 chips
|A/2
|A/K/3
|-
|90%
|median 5 hand
|A/10
|7/7/9
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!6 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|8,33%
|median 1 hand
|6/2
|8/6/4
|-
|16,67%
|between 1/2 chips
|7/5
|10/4/2
|-
|25%
|median 2 hand
|8/7
|J/4/3
|-
|33,33%
|between 2/3 chips
|9/8
|J/10/5
|-
|41,67%
|median 3 hand
|10/8
|Q/9/4
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 3/4 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|58,33%
|median 4 hand
|Q/5
|K/J/2
|-
|66,67%
|between 4/5 chips
|K/2
|A/7/2
|-
|75%
|median 5 hand
|K/9
|A/J/4
|-
|83,33%
|between 5/6 chips
|A/5
|2/2/7
|-
|91,67%
|median 6 hand
|A/J
|8/8/Q
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}

*''There was before another column which put an equal amount of combinaisons for every chip, but the 3 cards hand with it was way too out of place: A62 being median hand, and 337 being between chip 4 and 5 at 6 players was so unnatural.''

== Double pairs on the table (and single pair) ==
When there is two pairs on the table, and you hit nothing, only your highest card count.

That mean per example with a board JJ447, and you having A6, you can play that hand as if it was A2. That mean that if there was a fight earlier and you suspect someone else having better than you, you can play your hand as if it was A2 instead of A6. If that player got A8 or KQ, they could react differently.

In that same example if you got 62, you can take the lowest chip even if you highly suspect someone else has lower than you, because your hand will be JJ447 anyway.

But the most important thing is '''pocket pairs'''. If you got 22, and the second 4 arrived in the river, then '''while your hand was probably the best one pre flop''', still was good post flop and after the turn, '''it became the worst one after the river''' because you don't have a triple pair, you have the lowest possible hand: JJ447. That mean that an 82 which probably took 1 or 2 pre flop is now beating you. And so you should fight for the 1 and insist a lot since it's often not obvious for others players.

If you didn't understood that, you take your best 5 cards to create your hand. That mean that AJ99752 has the same value than AJ99743: they both use AJ997 to do their best hand.

If there is no pair on the board, and you have two pairs, then you should be high. When an unrelated pair come in the flop, now everyone which previously got one pair got the same combinaison than you (or 3 of a kind). That mean that now you should rank yourself as the best of your two pairs, which could mean going down even if others didn't improved.

== 4 cards of the same color on the table ==
'Obviously' on that kind of board, what you should be doing shift completely. Per example with 4 diamonds, we now ask you to rank yourself from the highest diamond card to the lowest diamond card. A hand with an Ace of spade and a 2 of diamond is now weaker than a 4 of spade and a 3 of diamond.

You first should put attention to which player potentially have 2 diamonds on their hand, it's more likely than their highest diamond card is high.

And then pay attention to potential flush house and straight, and good luck, it's like a situational pre flop situation.

If you hit nothing, don't hesitate to goes really low.
== Very strong connectors (advanced) ==
We arrived at the end of the guide, so let's have some fun and talk again of connectors which got normally no value.

KQ is normally worst than A2, but there is lots of value of having various hand in all chips (that's why putting pairs not at the highest amount preflop have a really positive aspect too).

So if you play KQ as if you got A7, you will end up by having a KQ between two others hands with aces. When on the flop arrive one card between A, K, Q, and the low value of ace, then the problem will be resolved, and one hand will be far stronger.

The great upside is that when you compare KQ with KJ or K10, KQ will be a lot overvalued, so there will be no hesitation on which player got the better hand.

Though, on the rares cases where you got none of those cards in the table, you will need to correct your position post river, which is a great downside too.

Finally, if both A and K come during the flop, again I would advise to correct post river, that's pretty much the same problem.

Now, if you start doing the same with KJ, you lose a lot of the value, because now comparing KQ and KJ will be really difficult.

I though about doing the same with A2 but the opposing way, but the problem with that is that if a flop J62 or J92 come, others would likely put yourself into a hand K6 or K9 which is prett bad. You have much less control of middle and bottom pair compared to top pair. So I don't like doing that: play A2 as A2.

About others very strong connectors (76, 87, 98, T9, JT, QJ) I'm fine with playing them slightly higher (like 85, 95, T5, J5, Q5, K5). But the difference is far lower.

Tips thegang

2026-06-06T21:33:45Z

Romain672: /* Very strong connectors (advanced) */ rework of section: increased their value

''The following tips aren’t set-in-stone rules, but are meant to give you an idea of how communication works in this game. As a group, figure out for yourselves how you’d like to communicate best without discussing your hand.''

Do not be afraid to '''take chips away''' from other players. This is exactly how you communicate the quality of your own hand and help others to categorize you. The more the chips move, the more communication takes place.

Always evaluate the '''current state''', not how good it might still become.
'''1st Phase''': Having a pair from the start: take a high number (and higher than your first chip), otherwise evaluate the rank of your High Card.
'''From 2nd Phase''': If something was revealed in this phase that increases your rating, take a higher (or at least equally high) chip than in the previous round. This allows fellow players to draw conclusions about your specific card values.
Conversely: If nothing fitting your hand was revealed, take the same chip of the previous round, but adapt to others players choices.

== Introduction ==
This is a concise ''strategy guide'' for ''The Gang'' focused on **rank‑only** chip selection. It defines a simple, repeatable convention for mapping numbered chips to rank percentiles.

== Core conventions to adopt ==
* '''Establish a ranking convention.''' Map each chip number to a clear percentile bucket so everyone interprets chip choices the same way.
* '''Conservative default.''' On the pre‑flop stage, default to slightly conservative picks and only escalate when community cards materially change the actual hand strength.
* '''Controlled chip theft.''' Taking another player’s chip is the only legal private signal—use it to correct obvious misrankings, not to bluff.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.''' Pre‑flop picks are based on ranks only; suitedness and flush/straight potential are ignored for the initial ranking.
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking a chip quickly signals a stronger rank; taking time to pick a chip, or picking then returning a chip, signals a weaker rank.
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.''' Base your pre‑flop chip choice exclusively on the two ranks in your hand.

== Simple interpertation pre flop ==
When suits are ignored, here is what all chips initially have (you have the exact hand at the middle of the page):

*Treat any pocket pair as better than any other hand: 22>AK
* Suits has no value.
* Connectors (7&8 of diamonds) has no value.
* Timing as a soft signal post flop: Picking quickly = stronger; taking time = weaker
* No talk; use chips to correct.
* Don't put value on speculative hands.
* The median hand is around J8.

{| class="wikitable"
!Chips
!6 players
!5 players
!4 players
!3 players
|-
|6
|pairs / A high
|
|
|
|-
|5
|A low / K
|pairs / A
|
|
|-
|4
|Q / J high
|K / Q high
|pairs / A
|
|-
|3
|J low / 10
|Q low / J
|K / Q
|pairs / A / K
|-
|2
|9 / 8
|10 / 9 / 8
|J / 10 / 9
|Q / J / 10
|-
|1
|7
|7
|8 / 7
|9 / 8 / 7
|}
For 6 players put 1.5 categories in each chips starting highest, pairs counting for 1.

For 5 players do the same but pairs count for 0,5.

For 4 players put 2 categories in each chip starting highest.

For 3 players put 3 categories in each chip starting highest.

You end up with only chip 2 being slightly out of place.

.

Note that if you play as group, you can play with any table of your choice, and simplify this table (putting all non kicker at the same chip) would be better for everyone. But the table here is to play with any player on bga which haven't read any table.

== Poker mindset ==
If you are coming from Poker, you really should change your mind on some things:

Colors has no value until you hit your flush. If you start putting value to them, others with a 97 hand will have no way to compare 96s & 98o.

Connectors has no value too else that become fastly confusing. Start by taking experience and know what you are doing before maybe putting very minor value to them.

Many top players put their pairs in the highest token possible: 22>AK. Note that it's possible too to put pairs as their real value pre flop (88=middle chip), but if you do that you must put yourself at the right place post flop.
== Pre flop advice ==
If you fight a lot for some tokens, the most important part is the first choice of every player. If someone started 3 and is fighting for 4, and everyone else started 4 or more, high chance they should be take the 1 instead.
== Post flop advices ==
When hitting a double pair or better fight for the highest token. After someone steal it twice/thrice from you re-evaluate the board to look for potential straight/flushes (note that some straight are impossible from the first chip choice). Then evaluate for the bottom double pair or high one.

When having a pocket hand pair pre flop higher than all value on the table, fight for the highest token.

When hitting top pair (the pair from the highest value on the table) take the highest token. You could insist once depending of first chip choice.

When hitting middle pair, take the second highest token if that's an increase from the first round. If it's the same value or below, wait for others choices. Note that it's possible that you took the highest token twice. On that case, others doesn't know you hit a pair, and you should take in consideration for future rounds.

When hitting bottom pair, wait for others choices, and then put yourself the lowest between those which improved.

When hitting nothing while I like taking a token 1 or 2 below my first chip if nobody react, though many people ask in chat for people to never do it and take instead the same token than the previous round. Your hand can only decreate in value with 2 pairs on the board or with 1 pair and goes from double pair to 'single pair' (read the third to last section for more informations).

== Turn and River advices ==
That card start to be really situationnal.

If that new card open straight and flushes, nearly any hand could goes for the highest chip immediately. Even if you got a double pair you should be careful about fighting for this highest token. Take into consideration how many straight and flushes there is. If it's really few (1 or 2) then the player which hit those should insist a lot for the highest token. That mean with a slightly weaker hand (like double pair) you could try to insist for 6. On the contrary if there is lots of straight and flushes (4 or 9+), take a lower chip more easily.

If that new card is above all others cards a new pair most likely put yourself as the best or second best hand, so take a really high chip.

If that new card is around the same value of others, take an higher chip, and let others decide where they put yourself. They know which pair you got but you don't know which pair they got.

If that new card is below all others cards, put yourself as the higher chip between those which never improved.

Note that pocket pairs can rank weirdly.

Finallya at the River, the nuts (highest possible hand) should insist a lot for the highest token since there is nothing to lose. Knowing that, the second best hand can do the same. The third best hand can do the same but show weakness once after the fight while still showing they want the best token. Going lower than that is much trickier, especially for flushes board.

== Correcting mistakes ==
If you or someone else made a mistake that can easily be confusing.

It can be corrected naturally by someone hitting a pair, or even rarely with two pockets pairs by someone else hitting a pair.

If it's obvious what is happening you could try to correct it immediately (post flop), especially if there was some fight pre flop.

But I would advise you to let everything goes as planned, and in the final turn, still take your normal chip if the river can be confusing, and after everyone is happy with their chip, fight for the potential mistake which happened earlier. That's because when doing that, it look like to others that you hit a pair, which is extremely confusing.

== Differents ways of stealing a chip ==
Let's assume you could want the chip above you. You have a lot of ways to convey information when stealing a chip (from strongest to weakest):

- '''stealing the chip one above the one you want, put it back on the table, and steal the chip you want:''' this is often after you took too much time to react: this steal is even stronger that the default one, because you said to that other player that you are coming from the lower end of the chip above.

- '''stealing the chip:''' that's the default move

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table and waiting:''' that way is the most neutral one. You just give the decision to the other player/assume they got more informations than you. Preflop, that's normally after a fight, and you give them one last chance to be below you, and then you take the other one. Alternatively, it could mean that you want more time to think about the situation. If after a while, you take the lower or highest chip that's again some information (neutral+ or neutral-)

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table, and immediately taking the lowest one:''' that one is the weakest one. Usually by doing that you ask that other to double check what happenned earlier/confirm they really want that token. Alternatively, you could have seen that something isn't right, and want to show it to the other player, and let them decide to correct it or not. Sometimes you hit a pair, showed it post flop, the turn come with the lowest card of the table and another player take your chip because they seem to have hit a pair, so you do it while not showing extra strength.

Outside of that situation you can:

- steal the token of two others players and take back your own token if you think something isn't right between them

- take the tokens per example of everyone which hitted a pair, to put them back on the table and ask everyone to choose again

- if something is really not right (like you took the highest chip pre flop, and someone else who hit a pair is sure you hitted a pair, and don't let you be under them), you can pick some tokens completely out of place. Per example if you are fighting for 3/4/5, you can take the 1, put it back, and take the 3. That's an extremely strong sign you didn't hit that pair because you will make players with chips 1&2 being confused, so it's for emergency only.

==Full range and average hand pre-flop ==
This cheat sheet map recommended pre‑flop chips depending of the number of players. Use this at the table as a compact reference. Pairs are above all. All picks are '''rank‑only''' (no suits). Connector (7&8 of diamond) has no value.

''Note that even if the numbers are mathematiquely coherent, since pairs can often more easily be differenciated from A high, you could want to lower slightly the highest range. And I'm unsure the range should be uniform, maybe the range from the outside should be bigger.''

Finally, note that this sheet is only without context. It's great to know where you should put your hand initially. As soon as some player(s) take any chip(s), the value of that sheet fall pretty fast.

===How to read this sheet===
*This sheet assume that there will be the same amount of players going for every chip (1326 possible hands)(22100 with 3 cards hand).
*5 = top, 1 = bottom.
*'''Timing cues:''' Quick pick = stronger; taking time or returning a chip = weaker. Use timing as secondary confirmation only.
*'''Use chip takes to correct misorders''' rather than arguing.
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!3 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|16.67%
|median 1 hand
|7/5
|10/4/2
|-
|33.33%
|between 1/2 chips
|9/8
|J/10/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 2 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|66.67%
|between 2/3 chips
|K/2
|A/7/2
|-
|83.33%
|median 3 hand
|A/5
|2/2/7
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!4 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|12,5%
|median 1 hand
|7/2
|10/5/5
|-
|25%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/7
|J/4/3
|-
|37.5%
|median 2 hand
|10/5
|Q/6/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 2/3 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|62,5%
|median 3 hand
|Q/8
|K/Q/7
|-
|75%
|between 3/4 chips
|K/9
|A/J/4
|-
|87,5%
|median 4 hand
|A/8
|5/5/10
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!5 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|10%
|median 1 hand
|6/4
|8/7/6
|-
|20%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/3
|10/7/5
|-
|30%
|median 2 hand
|9/5
|J/8/6
|-
|40%
|between 2/3 chips
|10/7
|Q/8/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 3 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|60%
|between 3/4 chips
|Q/6
|K/J/8
|-
|70%
|median 4 hand
|K/5
|A/9/2
|-
|80%
|between 4/5 chips
|A/2
|A/K/3
|-
|90%
|median 5 hand
|A/10
|7/7/9
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!6 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|8,33%
|median 1 hand
|6/2
|8/6/4
|-
|16,67%
|between 1/2 chips
|7/5
|10/4/2
|-
|25%
|median 2 hand
|8/7
|J/4/3
|-
|33,33%
|between 2/3 chips
|9/8
|J/10/5
|-
|41,67%
|median 3 hand
|10/8
|Q/9/4
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 3/4 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|58,33%
|median 4 hand
|Q/5
|K/J/2
|-
|66,67%
|between 4/5 chips
|K/2
|A/7/2
|-
|75%
|median 5 hand
|K/9
|A/J/4
|-
|83,33%
|between 5/6 chips
|A/5
|2/2/7
|-
|91,67%
|median 6 hand
|A/J
|8/8/Q
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}

*''There was before another column which put an equal amount of combinaisons for every chip, but the 3 cards hand with it was way too out of place: A62 being median hand, and 337 being between chip 4 and 5 at 6 players was so unnatural.''

== Double pairs on the table (and single pair) ==
When there is two pairs on the table, and you hit nothing, only your highest card count.

That mean per example with a board JJ447, and you having A6, you can play that hand as if it was A2. That mean that if there was a fight earlier and you suspect someone else having better than you, you can play your hand as if it was A2 instead of A6. If that player got A8 or KQ, they could react differently.

In that same example if you got 62, you can take the lowest chip even if you highly suspect someone else has lower than you, because your hand will be JJ447 anyway.

But the most important thing is '''pocket pairs'''. If you got 22, and the second 4 arrived in the river, then '''while your hand was probably the best one pre flop''', still was good post flop and after the turn, '''it became the worst one after the river''' because you don't have a triple pair, you have the lowest possible hand: JJ447. That mean that an 82 which probably took 1 or 2 pre flop is now beating you. And so you should fight for the 1 and insist a lot since it's often not obvious for others players.

If you didn't understood that, you take your best 5 cards to create your hand. That mean that AJ99752 has the same value than AJ99743: they both use AJ997 to do their best hand.

If there is no pair on the board, and you have two pairs, then you should be high. When an unrelated pair come in the flop, now everyone which previously got one pair got the same combinaison than you (or 3 of a kind). That mean that now you should rank yourself as the best of your two pairs, which could mean going down even if others didn't improved.

== 4 cards of the same color on the table ==
'Obviously' on that kind of board, what you should be doing shift completely. Per example with 4 diamonds, we now ask you to rank yourself from the highest diamond card to the lowest diamond card. A hand with an Ace of spade and a 2 of diamond is now weaker than a 4 of spade and a 3 of diamond.

You first should put attention to which player potentially have 2 diamonds on their hand, it's more likely than their highest diamond card is high.

And then pay attention to potential flush house and straight, and good luck, it's like a situational pre flop situation.

If you hit nothing, don't hesitate to goes really low.
== Very strong connectors (advanced) ==
We arrived at the end of the guide, so let's have some fun and talk again of connectors which got normally no value.

KQ is normally worst than A2, but there is lots of value of having various hand in all chips (that's why putting pairs not at the highest amount preflop have a really positive aspect too).

So if you play KQ as if you got A7, you will end up by having a KQ between two others hands with aces. When on the flop arrive one card between A, K, Q, and the low value of ace, then the problem will be resolved, and one hand will be far stronger.

The great upside is that when you compare KQ with KJ or K10, KQ will be a lot overvalued, so there will be no hesitation on which player got the better hand.

Though, on the rares cases where you got none of those cards in the table, you will need to correct your position post river, which is a great downside too.

Finally, if both A and K come during the flop, again I would advise to correct post river, that's pretty much the same problem.

Now, if you start doing the same with KJ, you lose a lot of the value, because now comparing KQ and KJ will be really difficult.

I though about doing the same with A2 but the opposing way, but the problem with that is that if a flop J62 or J92 come, others would likely put yourself into a hand K6 or K9 which is prett bad. You have much less control of middle and bottom pair compared to top pair. So I don't like doing that: play A2 as A2.

About others very strong connectors (76, 87, 98, T9, JT, QJ) I'm fine with playing them slightly higher (like 85, 95, T5, J5, Q5, K5). But the difference is far lower.

Tips thegang

2026-05-30T08:56:44Z

Romain672: /* Pre flop advice */

''The following tips aren’t set-in-stone rules, but are meant to give you an idea of how communication works in this game. As a group, figure out for yourselves how you’d like to communicate best without discussing your hand.''

Do not be afraid to '''take chips away''' from other players. This is exactly how you communicate the quality of your own hand and help others to categorize you. The more the chips move, the more communication takes place.

Always evaluate the '''current state''', not how good it might still become.
'''1st Phase''': Having a pair from the start: take a high number (and higher than your first chip), otherwise evaluate the rank of your High Card.
'''From 2nd Phase''': If something was revealed in this phase that increases your rating, take a higher (or at least equally high) chip than in the previous round. This allows fellow players to draw conclusions about your specific card values.
Conversely: If nothing fitting your hand was revealed, take the same chip of the previous round, but adapt to others players choices.

== Introduction ==
This is a concise ''strategy guide'' for ''The Gang'' focused on **rank‑only** chip selection. It defines a simple, repeatable convention for mapping numbered chips to rank percentiles.

== Core conventions to adopt ==
* '''Establish a ranking convention.''' Map each chip number to a clear percentile bucket so everyone interprets chip choices the same way.
* '''Conservative default.''' On the pre‑flop stage, default to slightly conservative picks and only escalate when community cards materially change the actual hand strength.
* '''Controlled chip theft.''' Taking another player’s chip is the only legal private signal—use it to correct obvious misrankings, not to bluff.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.''' Pre‑flop picks are based on ranks only; suitedness and flush/straight potential are ignored for the initial ranking.
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking a chip quickly signals a stronger rank; taking time to pick a chip, or picking then returning a chip, signals a weaker rank.
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.''' Base your pre‑flop chip choice exclusively on the two ranks in your hand.

== Simple interpertation pre flop ==
When suits are ignored, here is what all chips initially have (you have the exact hand at the middle of the page):

*Treat any pocket pair as better than any other hand: 22>AK
* Suits has no value.
* Connectors (7&8 of diamonds) has no value.
* Timing as a soft signal post flop: Picking quickly = stronger; taking time = weaker
* No talk; use chips to correct.
* Don't put value on speculative hands.
* The median hand is around J8.

{| class="wikitable"
!Chips
!6 players
!5 players
!4 players
!3 players
|-
|6
|pairs / A high
|
|
|
|-
|5
|A low / K
|pairs / A
|
|
|-
|4
|Q / J high
|K / Q high
|pairs / A
|
|-
|3
|J low / 10
|Q low / J
|K / Q
|pairs / A / K
|-
|2
|9 / 8
|10 / 9 / 8
|J / 10 / 9
|Q / J / 10
|-
|1
|7
|7
|8 / 7
|9 / 8 / 7
|}
For 6 players put 1.5 categories in each chips starting highest, pairs counting for 1.

For 5 players do the same but pairs count for 0,5.

For 4 players put 2 categories in each chip starting highest.

For 3 players put 3 categories in each chip starting highest.

You end up with only chip 2 being slightly out of place.

.

Note that if you play as group, you can play with any table of your choice, and simplify this table (putting all non kicker at the same chip) would be better for everyone. But the table here is to play with any player on bga which haven't read any table.

== Poker mindset ==
If you are coming from Poker, you really should change your mind on some things:

Colors has no value until you hit your flush. If you start putting value to them, others with a 97 hand will have no way to compare 96s & 98o.

Connectors has no value too else that become fastly confusing. Start by taking experience and know what you are doing before maybe putting very minor value to them.

Many top players put their pairs in the highest token possible: 22>AK. Note that it's possible too to put pairs as their real value pre flop (88=middle chip), but if you do that you must put yourself at the right place post flop.
== Pre flop advice ==
If you fight a lot for some tokens, the most important part is the first choice of every player. If someone started 3 and is fighting for 4, and everyone else started 4 or more, high chance they should be take the 1 instead.
== Post flop advices ==
When hitting a double pair or better fight for the highest token. After someone steal it twice/thrice from you re-evaluate the board to look for potential straight/flushes (note that some straight are impossible from the first chip choice). Then evaluate for the bottom double pair or high one.

When having a pocket hand pair pre flop higher than all value on the table, fight for the highest token.

When hitting top pair (the pair from the highest value on the table) take the highest token. You could insist once depending of first chip choice.

When hitting middle pair, take the second highest token if that's an increase from the first round. If it's the same value or below, wait for others choices. Note that it's possible that you took the highest token twice. On that case, others doesn't know you hit a pair, and you should take in consideration for future rounds.

When hitting bottom pair, wait for others choices, and then put yourself the lowest between those which improved.

When hitting nothing while I like taking a token 1 or 2 below my first chip if nobody react, though many people ask in chat for people to never do it and take instead the same token than the previous round. Your hand can only decreate in value with 2 pairs on the board or with 1 pair and goes from double pair to 'single pair' (read the third to last section for more informations).

== Turn and River advices ==
That card start to be really situationnal.

If that new card open straight and flushes, nearly any hand could goes for the highest chip immediately. Even if you got a double pair you should be careful about fighting for this highest token. Take into consideration how many straight and flushes there is. If it's really few (1 or 2) then the player which hit those should insist a lot for the highest token. That mean with a slightly weaker hand (like double pair) you could try to insist for 6. On the contrary if there is lots of straight and flushes (4 or 9+), take a lower chip more easily.

If that new card is above all others cards a new pair most likely put yourself as the best or second best hand, so take a really high chip.

If that new card is around the same value of others, take an higher chip, and let others decide where they put yourself. They know which pair you got but you don't know which pair they got.

If that new card is below all others cards, put yourself as the higher chip between those which never improved.

Note that pocket pairs can rank weirdly.

Finallya at the River, the nuts (highest possible hand) should insist a lot for the highest token since there is nothing to lose. Knowing that, the second best hand can do the same. The third best hand can do the same but show weakness once after the fight while still showing they want the best token. Going lower than that is much trickier, especially for flushes board.

== Correcting mistakes ==
If you or someone else made a mistake that can easily be confusing.

It can be corrected naturally by someone hitting a pair, or even rarely with two pockets pairs by someone else hitting a pair.

If it's obvious what is happening you could try to correct it immediately (post flop), especially if there was some fight pre flop.

But I would advise you to let everything goes as planned, and in the final turn, still take your normal chip if the river can be confusing, and after everyone is happy with their chip, fight for the potential mistake which happened earlier. That's because when doing that, it look like to others that you hit a pair, which is extremely confusing.

== Differents ways of stealing a chip ==
Let's assume you could want the chip above you. You have a lot of ways to convey information when stealing a chip (from strongest to weakest):

- '''stealing the chip one above the one you want, put it back on the table, and steal the chip you want:''' this is often after you took too much time to react: this steal is even stronger that the default one, because you said to that other player that you are coming from the lower end of the chip above.

- '''stealing the chip:''' that's the default move

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table and waiting:''' that way is the most neutral one. You just give the decision to the other player/assume they got more informations than you. Preflop, that's normally after a fight, and you give them one last chance to be below you, and then you take the other one. Alternatively, it could mean that you want more time to think about the situation. If after a while, you take the lower or highest chip that's again some information (neutral+ or neutral-)

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table, and immediately taking the lowest one:''' that one is the weakest one. Usually by doing that you ask that other to double check what happenned earlier/confirm they really want that token. Alternatively, you could have seen that something isn't right, and want to show it to the other player, and let them decide to correct it or not. Sometimes you hit a pair, showed it post flop, the turn come with the lowest card of the table and another player take your chip because they seem to have hit a pair, so you do it while not showing extra strength.

Outside of that situation you can:

- steal the token of two others players and take back your own token if you think something isn't right between them

- take the tokens per example of everyone which hitted a pair, to put them back on the table and ask everyone to choose again

- if something is really not right (like you took the highest chip pre flop, and someone else who hit a pair is sure you hitted a pair, and don't let you be under them), you can pick some tokens completely out of place. Per example if you are fighting for 3/4/5, you can take the 1, put it back, and take the 3. That's an extremely strong sign you didn't hit that pair because you will make players with chips 1&2 being confused, so it's for emergency only.

==Full range and average hand pre-flop ==
This cheat sheet map recommended pre‑flop chips depending of the number of players. Use this at the table as a compact reference. Pairs are above all. All picks are '''rank‑only''' (no suits). Connector (7&8 of diamond) has no value.

''Note that even if the numbers are mathematiquely coherent, since pairs can often more easily be differenciated from A high, you could want to lower slightly the highest range. And I'm unsure the range should be uniform, maybe the range from the outside should be bigger.''

Finally, note that this sheet is only without context. It's great to know where you should put your hand initially. As soon as some player(s) take any chip(s), the value of that sheet fall pretty fast.

===How to read this sheet===
*This sheet assume that there will be the same amount of players going for every chip (1326 possible hands)(22100 with 3 cards hand).
*5 = top, 1 = bottom.
*'''Timing cues:''' Quick pick = stronger; taking time or returning a chip = weaker. Use timing as secondary confirmation only.
*'''Use chip takes to correct misorders''' rather than arguing.
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!3 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|16.67%
|median 1 hand
|7/5
|10/4/2
|-
|33.33%
|between 1/2 chips
|9/8
|J/10/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 2 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|66.67%
|between 2/3 chips
|K/2
|A/7/2
|-
|83.33%
|median 3 hand
|A/5
|2/2/7
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!4 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|12,5%
|median 1 hand
|7/2
|10/5/5
|-
|25%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/7
|J/4/3
|-
|37.5%
|median 2 hand
|10/5
|Q/6/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 2/3 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|62,5%
|median 3 hand
|Q/8
|K/Q/7
|-
|75%
|between 3/4 chips
|K/9
|A/J/4
|-
|87,5%
|median 4 hand
|A/8
|5/5/10
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!5 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|10%
|median 1 hand
|6/4
|8/7/6
|-
|20%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/3
|10/7/5
|-
|30%
|median 2 hand
|9/5
|J/8/6
|-
|40%
|between 2/3 chips
|10/7
|Q/8/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 3 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|60%
|between 3/4 chips
|Q/6
|K/J/8
|-
|70%
|median 4 hand
|K/5
|A/9/2
|-
|80%
|between 4/5 chips
|A/2
|A/K/3
|-
|90%
|median 5 hand
|A/10
|7/7/9
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!6 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|8,33%
|median 1 hand
|6/2
|8/6/4
|-
|16,67%
|between 1/2 chips
|7/5
|10/4/2
|-
|25%
|median 2 hand
|8/7
|J/4/3
|-
|33,33%
|between 2/3 chips
|9/8
|J/10/5
|-
|41,67%
|median 3 hand
|10/8
|Q/9/4
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 3/4 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|58,33%
|median 4 hand
|Q/5
|K/J/2
|-
|66,67%
|between 4/5 chips
|K/2
|A/7/2
|-
|75%
|median 5 hand
|K/9
|A/J/4
|-
|83,33%
|between 5/6 chips
|A/5
|2/2/7
|-
|91,67%
|median 6 hand
|A/J
|8/8/Q
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}

*''There was before another column which put an equal amount of combinaisons for every chip, but the 3 cards hand with it was way too out of place: A62 being median hand, and 337 being between chip 4 and 5 at 6 players was so unnatural.''

== Double pairs on the table (and single pair) ==
When there is two pairs on the table, and you hit nothing, only your highest card count.

That mean per example with a board JJ447, and you having A6, you can play that hand as if it was A2. That mean that if there was a fight earlier and you suspect someone else having better than you, you can play your hand as if it was A2 instead of A6. If that player got A8 or KQ, they could react differently.

In that same example if you got 62, you can take the lowest chip even if you highly suspect someone else has lower than you, because your hand will be JJ447 anyway.

But the most important thing is '''pocket pairs'''. If you got 22, and the second 4 arrived in the river, then '''while your hand was probably the best one pre flop''', still was good post flop and after the turn, '''it became the worst one after the river''' because you don't have a triple pair, you have the lowest possible hand: JJ447. That mean that an 82 which probably took 1 or 2 pre flop is now beating you. And so you should fight for the 1 and insist a lot since it's often not obvious for others players.

If you didn't understood that, you take your best 5 cards to create your hand. That mean that AJ99752 has the same value than AJ99743: they both use AJ997 to do their best hand.

If there is no pair on the board, and you have two pairs, then you should be high. When an unrelated pair come in the flop, now everyone which previously got one pair got the same combinaison than you (or 3 of a kind). That mean that now you should rank yourself as the best of your two pairs, which could mean going down even if others didn't improved.

== 4 cards of the same color on the table ==
'Obviously' on that kind of board, what you should be doing shift completely. Per example with 4 diamonds, we now ask you to rank yourself from the highest diamond card to the lowest diamond card. A hand with an Ace of spade and a 2 of diamond is now weaker than a 4 of spade and a 3 of diamond.

You first should put attention to which player potentially have 2 diamonds on their hand, it's more likely than their highest diamond card is high.

And then pay attention to potential flush house and straight, and good luck, it's like a situational pre flop situation.

If you hit nothing, don't hesitate to goes really low.
== Very strong connectors (advanced) ==
We arrived at the end of the guide, so let's have some fun and talk again of connectors which got normally no value.
KQ is normally worst than A2, but there is lots of value of having various hand in all chips (that's why putting pairs not at the highest amount preflop have a really positive aspect too).

So if you play KQ as if you got A7, you will end up by having a KQ between two others hands with aces. When on the flop arrive one card between A, K, Q, and the low value of ace, then the problem will be resolved, and one hand will be far stronger.

The great upside is that when you compare KQ with KJ or K10, KQ will be a lot overvalued, so there will be no hesitation on which player got the better hand.

Though, on the rares cases where you got none of those cards in the table, you will need to correct your position post river, which is a great downside too.

Finally, if both A and K come during the flop, again I would advise to correct post river, that's pretty much the same problem.

Now, if you start doing the same with KJ, you lose a lot of the value, because now comparing KQ and KJ will be really difficult, so I'm a lot against doing it with that hand.

QJ is in my opinion enough strong too to be played like K5. Those are two much closer hand, so in most games that wouldn't change anything preflop.

I though about doing the same with A2 but the opposing way, but the problem with that is that if a flop J62 or J92 come, others would likely put yourself into a hand K6 or K9 which is prett bad. You have much less control of middle and bottom pair compared to top pair. So I don't like doing that: play A2 as A2.

JT start to be very messy since it's a middle hand, so I wouldn't do it neither.

You could play 87 as if it was 92 or at the middle of 87/92, that way you separate much more 87 from 86 and 85: if there is any 9, 8, 7, or 2, then there wouldn't be a downside. And do that for every strong connector, but that's a pretty minor gain.

Tips thegang

2026-05-30T08:56:23Z

Romain672: added one 'pre flop advice'

''The following tips aren’t set-in-stone rules, but are meant to give you an idea of how communication works in this game. As a group, figure out for yourselves how you’d like to communicate best without discussing your hand.''

Do not be afraid to '''take chips away''' from other players. This is exactly how you communicate the quality of your own hand and help others to categorize you. The more the chips move, the more communication takes place.

Always evaluate the '''current state''', not how good it might still become.
'''1st Phase''': Having a pair from the start: take a high number (and higher than your first chip), otherwise evaluate the rank of your High Card.
'''From 2nd Phase''': If something was revealed in this phase that increases your rating, take a higher (or at least equally high) chip than in the previous round. This allows fellow players to draw conclusions about your specific card values.
Conversely: If nothing fitting your hand was revealed, take the same chip of the previous round, but adapt to others players choices.

== Introduction ==
This is a concise ''strategy guide'' for ''The Gang'' focused on **rank‑only** chip selection. It defines a simple, repeatable convention for mapping numbered chips to rank percentiles.

== Core conventions to adopt ==
* '''Establish a ranking convention.''' Map each chip number to a clear percentile bucket so everyone interprets chip choices the same way.
* '''Conservative default.''' On the pre‑flop stage, default to slightly conservative picks and only escalate when community cards materially change the actual hand strength.
* '''Controlled chip theft.''' Taking another player’s chip is the only legal private signal—use it to correct obvious misrankings, not to bluff.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.''' Pre‑flop picks are based on ranks only; suitedness and flush/straight potential are ignored for the initial ranking.
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking a chip quickly signals a stronger rank; taking time to pick a chip, or picking then returning a chip, signals a weaker rank.
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.''' Base your pre‑flop chip choice exclusively on the two ranks in your hand.

== Simple interpertation pre flop ==
When suits are ignored, here is what all chips initially have (you have the exact hand at the middle of the page):

*Treat any pocket pair as better than any other hand: 22>AK
* Suits has no value.
* Connectors (7&8 of diamonds) has no value.
* Timing as a soft signal post flop: Picking quickly = stronger; taking time = weaker
* No talk; use chips to correct.
* Don't put value on speculative hands.
* The median hand is around J8.

{| class="wikitable"
!Chips
!6 players
!5 players
!4 players
!3 players
|-
|6
|pairs / A high
|
|
|
|-
|5
|A low / K
|pairs / A
|
|
|-
|4
|Q / J high
|K / Q high
|pairs / A
|
|-
|3
|J low / 10
|Q low / J
|K / Q
|pairs / A / K
|-
|2
|9 / 8
|10 / 9 / 8
|J / 10 / 9
|Q / J / 10
|-
|1
|7
|7
|8 / 7
|9 / 8 / 7
|}
For 6 players put 1.5 categories in each chips starting highest, pairs counting for 1.

For 5 players do the same but pairs count for 0,5.

For 4 players put 2 categories in each chip starting highest.

For 3 players put 3 categories in each chip starting highest.

You end up with only chip 2 being slightly out of place.

.

Note that if you play as group, you can play with any table of your choice, and simplify this table (putting all non kicker at the same chip) would be better for everyone. But the table here is to play with any player on bga which haven't read any table.

== Poker mindset ==
If you are coming from Poker, you really should change your mind on some things:

Colors has no value until you hit your flush. If you start putting value to them, others with a 97 hand will have no way to compare 96s & 98o.

Connectors has no value too else that become fastly confusing. Start by taking experience and know what you are doing before maybe putting very minor value to them.

Many top players put their pairs in the highest token possible: 22>AK. Note that it's possible too to put pairs as their real value pre flop (88=middle chip), but if you do that you must put yourself at the right place post flop.
== Pre flop advice ==
If you fight a lot of some tokens, the most important part is the first choice of every player. If someone started 3 and is fighting for 4, and everyone else started 4 or more, high chance they should be take the 1 instead.
== Post flop advices ==
When hitting a double pair or better fight for the highest token. After someone steal it twice/thrice from you re-evaluate the board to look for potential straight/flushes (note that some straight are impossible from the first chip choice). Then evaluate for the bottom double pair or high one.

When having a pocket hand pair pre flop higher than all value on the table, fight for the highest token.

When hitting top pair (the pair from the highest value on the table) take the highest token. You could insist once depending of first chip choice.

When hitting middle pair, take the second highest token if that's an increase from the first round. If it's the same value or below, wait for others choices. Note that it's possible that you took the highest token twice. On that case, others doesn't know you hit a pair, and you should take in consideration for future rounds.

When hitting bottom pair, wait for others choices, and then put yourself the lowest between those which improved.

When hitting nothing while I like taking a token 1 or 2 below my first chip if nobody react, though many people ask in chat for people to never do it and take instead the same token than the previous round. Your hand can only decreate in value with 2 pairs on the board or with 1 pair and goes from double pair to 'single pair' (read the third to last section for more informations).

== Turn and River advices ==
That card start to be really situationnal.

If that new card open straight and flushes, nearly any hand could goes for the highest chip immediately. Even if you got a double pair you should be careful about fighting for this highest token. Take into consideration how many straight and flushes there is. If it's really few (1 or 2) then the player which hit those should insist a lot for the highest token. That mean with a slightly weaker hand (like double pair) you could try to insist for 6. On the contrary if there is lots of straight and flushes (4 or 9+), take a lower chip more easily.

If that new card is above all others cards a new pair most likely put yourself as the best or second best hand, so take a really high chip.

If that new card is around the same value of others, take an higher chip, and let others decide where they put yourself. They know which pair you got but you don't know which pair they got.

If that new card is below all others cards, put yourself as the higher chip between those which never improved.

Note that pocket pairs can rank weirdly.

Finallya at the River, the nuts (highest possible hand) should insist a lot for the highest token since there is nothing to lose. Knowing that, the second best hand can do the same. The third best hand can do the same but show weakness once after the fight while still showing they want the best token. Going lower than that is much trickier, especially for flushes board.

== Correcting mistakes ==
If you or someone else made a mistake that can easily be confusing.

It can be corrected naturally by someone hitting a pair, or even rarely with two pockets pairs by someone else hitting a pair.

If it's obvious what is happening you could try to correct it immediately (post flop), especially if there was some fight pre flop.

But I would advise you to let everything goes as planned, and in the final turn, still take your normal chip if the river can be confusing, and after everyone is happy with their chip, fight for the potential mistake which happened earlier. That's because when doing that, it look like to others that you hit a pair, which is extremely confusing.

== Differents ways of stealing a chip ==
Let's assume you could want the chip above you. You have a lot of ways to convey information when stealing a chip (from strongest to weakest):

- '''stealing the chip one above the one you want, put it back on the table, and steal the chip you want:''' this is often after you took too much time to react: this steal is even stronger that the default one, because you said to that other player that you are coming from the lower end of the chip above.

- '''stealing the chip:''' that's the default move

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table and waiting:''' that way is the most neutral one. You just give the decision to the other player/assume they got more informations than you. Preflop, that's normally after a fight, and you give them one last chance to be below you, and then you take the other one. Alternatively, it could mean that you want more time to think about the situation. If after a while, you take the lower or highest chip that's again some information (neutral+ or neutral-)

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table, and immediately taking the lowest one:''' that one is the weakest one. Usually by doing that you ask that other to double check what happenned earlier/confirm they really want that token. Alternatively, you could have seen that something isn't right, and want to show it to the other player, and let them decide to correct it or not. Sometimes you hit a pair, showed it post flop, the turn come with the lowest card of the table and another player take your chip because they seem to have hit a pair, so you do it while not showing extra strength.

Outside of that situation you can:

- steal the token of two others players and take back your own token if you think something isn't right between them

- take the tokens per example of everyone which hitted a pair, to put them back on the table and ask everyone to choose again

- if something is really not right (like you took the highest chip pre flop, and someone else who hit a pair is sure you hitted a pair, and don't let you be under them), you can pick some tokens completely out of place. Per example if you are fighting for 3/4/5, you can take the 1, put it back, and take the 3. That's an extremely strong sign you didn't hit that pair because you will make players with chips 1&2 being confused, so it's for emergency only.

==Full range and average hand pre-flop ==
This cheat sheet map recommended pre‑flop chips depending of the number of players. Use this at the table as a compact reference. Pairs are above all. All picks are '''rank‑only''' (no suits). Connector (7&8 of diamond) has no value.

''Note that even if the numbers are mathematiquely coherent, since pairs can often more easily be differenciated from A high, you could want to lower slightly the highest range. And I'm unsure the range should be uniform, maybe the range from the outside should be bigger.''

Finally, note that this sheet is only without context. It's great to know where you should put your hand initially. As soon as some player(s) take any chip(s), the value of that sheet fall pretty fast.

===How to read this sheet===
*This sheet assume that there will be the same amount of players going for every chip (1326 possible hands)(22100 with 3 cards hand).
*5 = top, 1 = bottom.
*'''Timing cues:''' Quick pick = stronger; taking time or returning a chip = weaker. Use timing as secondary confirmation only.
*'''Use chip takes to correct misorders''' rather than arguing.
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!3 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|16.67%
|median 1 hand
|7/5
|10/4/2
|-
|33.33%
|between 1/2 chips
|9/8
|J/10/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 2 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|66.67%
|between 2/3 chips
|K/2
|A/7/2
|-
|83.33%
|median 3 hand
|A/5
|2/2/7
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!4 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|12,5%
|median 1 hand
|7/2
|10/5/5
|-
|25%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/7
|J/4/3
|-
|37.5%
|median 2 hand
|10/5
|Q/6/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 2/3 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|62,5%
|median 3 hand
|Q/8
|K/Q/7
|-
|75%
|between 3/4 chips
|K/9
|A/J/4
|-
|87,5%
|median 4 hand
|A/8
|5/5/10
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!5 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|10%
|median 1 hand
|6/4
|8/7/6
|-
|20%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/3
|10/7/5
|-
|30%
|median 2 hand
|9/5
|J/8/6
|-
|40%
|between 2/3 chips
|10/7
|Q/8/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 3 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|60%
|between 3/4 chips
|Q/6
|K/J/8
|-
|70%
|median 4 hand
|K/5
|A/9/2
|-
|80%
|between 4/5 chips
|A/2
|A/K/3
|-
|90%
|median 5 hand
|A/10
|7/7/9
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!6 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|8,33%
|median 1 hand
|6/2
|8/6/4
|-
|16,67%
|between 1/2 chips
|7/5
|10/4/2
|-
|25%
|median 2 hand
|8/7
|J/4/3
|-
|33,33%
|between 2/3 chips
|9/8
|J/10/5
|-
|41,67%
|median 3 hand
|10/8
|Q/9/4
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 3/4 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|58,33%
|median 4 hand
|Q/5
|K/J/2
|-
|66,67%
|between 4/5 chips
|K/2
|A/7/2
|-
|75%
|median 5 hand
|K/9
|A/J/4
|-
|83,33%
|between 5/6 chips
|A/5
|2/2/7
|-
|91,67%
|median 6 hand
|A/J
|8/8/Q
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}

*''There was before another column which put an equal amount of combinaisons for every chip, but the 3 cards hand with it was way too out of place: A62 being median hand, and 337 being between chip 4 and 5 at 6 players was so unnatural.''

== Double pairs on the table (and single pair) ==
When there is two pairs on the table, and you hit nothing, only your highest card count.

That mean per example with a board JJ447, and you having A6, you can play that hand as if it was A2. That mean that if there was a fight earlier and you suspect someone else having better than you, you can play your hand as if it was A2 instead of A6. If that player got A8 or KQ, they could react differently.

In that same example if you got 62, you can take the lowest chip even if you highly suspect someone else has lower than you, because your hand will be JJ447 anyway.

But the most important thing is '''pocket pairs'''. If you got 22, and the second 4 arrived in the river, then '''while your hand was probably the best one pre flop''', still was good post flop and after the turn, '''it became the worst one after the river''' because you don't have a triple pair, you have the lowest possible hand: JJ447. That mean that an 82 which probably took 1 or 2 pre flop is now beating you. And so you should fight for the 1 and insist a lot since it's often not obvious for others players.

If you didn't understood that, you take your best 5 cards to create your hand. That mean that AJ99752 has the same value than AJ99743: they both use AJ997 to do their best hand.

If there is no pair on the board, and you have two pairs, then you should be high. When an unrelated pair come in the flop, now everyone which previously got one pair got the same combinaison than you (or 3 of a kind). That mean that now you should rank yourself as the best of your two pairs, which could mean going down even if others didn't improved.

== 4 cards of the same color on the table ==
'Obviously' on that kind of board, what you should be doing shift completely. Per example with 4 diamonds, we now ask you to rank yourself from the highest diamond card to the lowest diamond card. A hand with an Ace of spade and a 2 of diamond is now weaker than a 4 of spade and a 3 of diamond.

You first should put attention to which player potentially have 2 diamonds on their hand, it's more likely than their highest diamond card is high.

And then pay attention to potential flush house and straight, and good luck, it's like a situational pre flop situation.

If you hit nothing, don't hesitate to goes really low.
== Very strong connectors (advanced) ==
We arrived at the end of the guide, so let's have some fun and talk again of connectors which got normally no value.
KQ is normally worst than A2, but there is lots of value of having various hand in all chips (that's why putting pairs not at the highest amount preflop have a really positive aspect too).

So if you play KQ as if you got A7, you will end up by having a KQ between two others hands with aces. When on the flop arrive one card between A, K, Q, and the low value of ace, then the problem will be resolved, and one hand will be far stronger.

The great upside is that when you compare KQ with KJ or K10, KQ will be a lot overvalued, so there will be no hesitation on which player got the better hand.

Though, on the rares cases where you got none of those cards in the table, you will need to correct your position post river, which is a great downside too.

Finally, if both A and K come during the flop, again I would advise to correct post river, that's pretty much the same problem.

Now, if you start doing the same with KJ, you lose a lot of the value, because now comparing KQ and KJ will be really difficult, so I'm a lot against doing it with that hand.

QJ is in my opinion enough strong too to be played like K5. Those are two much closer hand, so in most games that wouldn't change anything preflop.

I though about doing the same with A2 but the opposing way, but the problem with that is that if a flop J62 or J92 come, others would likely put yourself into a hand K6 or K9 which is prett bad. You have much less control of middle and bottom pair compared to top pair. So I don't like doing that: play A2 as A2.

JT start to be very messy since it's a middle hand, so I wouldn't do it neither.

You could play 87 as if it was 92 or at the middle of 87/92, that way you separate much more 87 from 86 and 85: if there is any 9, 8, 7, or 2, then there wouldn't be a downside. And do that for every strong connector, but that's a pretty minor gain.

Tips thegang

2026-05-27T09:56:41Z

Romain672: /* Simple interpertation pre flop */ Added that you should simplify the table when playing with people you know

''The following tips aren’t set-in-stone rules, but are meant to give you an idea of how communication works in this game. As a group, figure out for yourselves how you’d like to communicate best without discussing your hand.''

Do not be afraid to '''take chips away''' from other players. This is exactly how you communicate the quality of your own hand and help others to categorize you. The more the chips move, the more communication takes place.

Always evaluate the '''current state''', not how good it might still become.
'''1st Phase''': Having a pair from the start: take a high number (and higher than your first chip), otherwise evaluate the rank of your High Card.
'''From 2nd Phase''': If something was revealed in this phase that increases your rating, take a higher (or at least equally high) chip than in the previous round. This allows fellow players to draw conclusions about your specific card values.
Conversely: If nothing fitting your hand was revealed, take the same chip of the previous round, but adapt to others players choices.

== Introduction ==
This is a concise ''strategy guide'' for ''The Gang'' focused on **rank‑only** chip selection. It defines a simple, repeatable convention for mapping numbered chips to rank percentiles.

== Core conventions to adopt ==
* '''Establish a ranking convention.''' Map each chip number to a clear percentile bucket so everyone interprets chip choices the same way.
* '''Conservative default.''' On the pre‑flop stage, default to slightly conservative picks and only escalate when community cards materially change the actual hand strength.
* '''Controlled chip theft.''' Taking another player’s chip is the only legal private signal—use it to correct obvious misrankings, not to bluff.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.''' Pre‑flop picks are based on ranks only; suitedness and flush/straight potential are ignored for the initial ranking.
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking a chip quickly signals a stronger rank; taking time to pick a chip, or picking then returning a chip, signals a weaker rank.
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.''' Base your pre‑flop chip choice exclusively on the two ranks in your hand.

== Simple interpertation pre flop ==
When suits are ignored, here is what all chips initially have (you have the exact hand at the middle of the page):

*Treat any pocket pair as better than any other hand: 22>AK
* Suits has no value.
* Connectors (7&8 of diamonds) has no value.
* Timing as a soft signal post flop: Picking quickly = stronger; taking time = weaker
* No talk; use chips to correct.
* Don't put value on speculative hands.
* The median hand is around J8.

{| class="wikitable"
!Chips
!6 players
!5 players
!4 players
!3 players
|-
|6
|pairs / A high
|
|
|
|-
|5
|A low / K
|pairs / A
|
|
|-
|4
|Q / J high
|K / Q high
|pairs / A
|
|-
|3
|J low / 10
|Q low / J
|K / Q
|pairs / A / K
|-
|2
|9 / 8
|10 / 9 / 8
|J / 10 / 9
|Q / J / 10
|-
|1
|7
|7
|8 / 7
|9 / 8 / 7
|}
For 6 players put 1.5 categories in each chips starting highest, pairs counting for 1.

For 5 players do the same but pairs count for 0,5.

For 4 players put 2 categories in each chip starting highest.

For 3 players put 3 categories in each chip starting highest.

You end up with only chip 2 being slightly out of place.

.

Note that if you play as group, you can play with any table of your choice, and simplify this table (putting all non kicker at the same chip) would be better for everyone. But the table here is to play with any player on bga which haven't read any table.

== Poker mindset ==
If you are coming from Poker, you really should change your mind on some things:

Colors has no value until you hit your flush. If you start putting value to them, others with a 97 hand will have no way to compare 96s & 98o.

Connectors has no value too else that become fastly confusing. Start by taking experience and know what you are doing before maybe putting very minor value to them.

Many top players put their pairs in the highest token possible: 22>AK. Note that it's possible too to put pairs as their real value pre flop (88=middle chip), but if you do that you must put yourself at the right place post flop.
== Post flop advices ==
When hitting a double pair or better fight for the highest token. After someone steal it twice/thrice from you re-evaluate the board to look for potential straight/flushes (note that some straight are impossible from the first chip choice). Then evaluate for the bottom double pair or high one.

When having a pocket hand pair pre flop higher than all value on the table, fight for the highest token.

When hitting top pair (the pair from the highest value on the table) take the highest token. You could insist once depending of first chip choice.

When hitting middle pair, take the second highest token if that's an increase from the first round. If it's the same value or below, wait for others choices. Note that it's possible that you took the highest token twice. On that case, others doesn't know you hit a pair, and you should take in consideration for future rounds.

When hitting bottom pair, wait for others choices, and then put yourself the lowest between those which improved.

When hitting nothing while I like taking a token 1 or 2 below my first chip if nobody react, though many people ask in chat for people to never do it and take instead the same token than the previous round. Your hand can only decreate in value with 2 pairs on the board or with 1 pair and goes from double pair to 'single pair' (read the third to last section for more informations).

== Turn and River advices ==
That card start to be really situationnal.

If that new card open straight and flushes, nearly any hand could goes for the highest chip immediately. Even if you got a double pair you should be careful about fighting for this highest token. Take into consideration how many straight and flushes there is. If it's really few (1 or 2) then the player which hit those should insist a lot for the highest token. That mean with a slightly weaker hand (like double pair) you could try to insist for 6. On the contrary if there is lots of straight and flushes (4 or 9+), take a lower chip more easily.

If that new card is above all others cards a new pair most likely put yourself as the best or second best hand, so take a really high chip.

If that new card is around the same value of others, take an higher chip, and let others decide where they put yourself. They know which pair you got but you don't know which pair they got.

If that new card is below all others cards, put yourself as the higher chip between those which never improved.

Note that pocket pairs can rank weirdly.

Finallya at the River, the nuts (highest possible hand) should insist a lot for the highest token since there is nothing to lose. Knowing that, the second best hand can do the same. The third best hand can do the same but show weakness once after the fight while still showing they want the best token. Going lower than that is much trickier, especially for flushes board.

== Correcting mistakes ==
If you or someone else made a mistake that can easily be confusing.

It can be corrected naturally by someone hitting a pair, or even rarely with two pockets pairs by someone else hitting a pair.

If it's obvious what is happening you could try to correct it immediately (post flop), especially if there was some fight pre flop.

But I would advise you to let everything goes as planned, and in the final turn, still take your normal chip if the river can be confusing, and after everyone is happy with their chip, fight for the potential mistake which happened earlier. That's because when doing that, it look like to others that you hit a pair, which is extremely confusing.

== Differents ways of stealing a chip ==
Let's assume you could want the chip above you. You have a lot of ways to convey information when stealing a chip (from strongest to weakest):

- '''stealing the chip one above the one you want, put it back on the table, and steal the chip you want:''' this is often after you took too much time to react: this steal is even stronger that the default one, because you said to that other player that you are coming from the lower end of the chip above.

- '''stealing the chip:''' that's the default move

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table and waiting:''' that way is the most neutral one. You just give the decision to the other player/assume they got more informations than you. Preflop, that's normally after a fight, and you give them one last chance to be below you, and then you take the other one. Alternatively, it could mean that you want more time to think about the situation. If after a while, you take the lower or highest chip that's again some information (neutral+ or neutral-)

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table, and immediately taking the lowest one:''' that one is the weakest one. Usually by doing that you ask that other to double check what happenned earlier/confirm they really want that token. Alternatively, you could have seen that something isn't right, and want to show it to the other player, and let them decide to correct it or not. Sometimes you hit a pair, showed it post flop, the turn come with the lowest card of the table and another player take your chip because they seem to have hit a pair, so you do it while not showing extra strength.

Outside of that situation you can:

- steal the token of two others players and take back your own token if you think something isn't right between them

- take the tokens per example of everyone which hitted a pair, to put them back on the table and ask everyone to choose again

- if something is really not right (like you took the highest chip pre flop, and someone else who hit a pair is sure you hitted a pair, and don't let you be under them), you can pick some tokens completely out of place. Per example if you are fighting for 3/4/5, you can take the 1, put it back, and take the 3. That's an extremely strong sign you didn't hit that pair because you will make players with chips 1&2 being confused, so it's for emergency only.

==Full range and average hand pre-flop ==
This cheat sheet map recommended pre‑flop chips depending of the number of players. Use this at the table as a compact reference. Pairs are above all. All picks are '''rank‑only''' (no suits). Connector (7&8 of diamond) has no value.

''Note that even if the numbers are mathematiquely coherent, since pairs can often more easily be differenciated from A high, you could want to lower slightly the highest range. And I'm unsure the range should be uniform, maybe the range from the outside should be bigger.''

Finally, note that this sheet is only without context. It's great to know where you should put your hand initially. As soon as some player(s) take any chip(s), the value of that sheet fall pretty fast.

===How to read this sheet===
*This sheet assume that there will be the same amount of players going for every chip (1326 possible hands)(22100 with 3 cards hand).
*5 = top, 1 = bottom.
*'''Timing cues:''' Quick pick = stronger; taking time or returning a chip = weaker. Use timing as secondary confirmation only.
*'''Use chip takes to correct misorders''' rather than arguing.
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!3 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|16.67%
|median 1 hand
|7/5
|10/4/2
|-
|33.33%
|between 1/2 chips
|9/8
|J/10/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 2 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|66.67%
|between 2/3 chips
|K/2
|A/7/2
|-
|83.33%
|median 3 hand
|A/5
|2/2/7
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!4 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|12,5%
|median 1 hand
|7/2
|10/5/5
|-
|25%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/7
|J/4/3
|-
|37.5%
|median 2 hand
|10/5
|Q/6/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 2/3 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|62,5%
|median 3 hand
|Q/8
|K/Q/7
|-
|75%
|between 3/4 chips
|K/9
|A/J/4
|-
|87,5%
|median 4 hand
|A/8
|5/5/10
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!5 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|10%
|median 1 hand
|6/4
|8/7/6
|-
|20%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/3
|10/7/5
|-
|30%
|median 2 hand
|9/5
|J/8/6
|-
|40%
|between 2/3 chips
|10/7
|Q/8/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 3 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|60%
|between 3/4 chips
|Q/6
|K/J/8
|-
|70%
|median 4 hand
|K/5
|A/9/2
|-
|80%
|between 4/5 chips
|A/2
|A/K/3
|-
|90%
|median 5 hand
|A/10
|7/7/9
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!6 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|8,33%
|median 1 hand
|6/2
|8/6/4
|-
|16,67%
|between 1/2 chips
|7/5
|10/4/2
|-
|25%
|median 2 hand
|8/7
|J/4/3
|-
|33,33%
|between 2/3 chips
|9/8
|J/10/5
|-
|41,67%
|median 3 hand
|10/8
|Q/9/4
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 3/4 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|58,33%
|median 4 hand
|Q/5
|K/J/2
|-
|66,67%
|between 4/5 chips
|K/2
|A/7/2
|-
|75%
|median 5 hand
|K/9
|A/J/4
|-
|83,33%
|between 5/6 chips
|A/5
|2/2/7
|-
|91,67%
|median 6 hand
|A/J
|8/8/Q
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}

*''There was before another column which put an equal amount of combinaisons for every chip, but the 3 cards hand with it was way too out of place: A62 being median hand, and 337 being between chip 4 and 5 at 6 players was so unnatural.''

== Double pairs on the table (and single pair) ==
When there is two pairs on the table, and you hit nothing, only your highest card count.

That mean per example with a board JJ447, and you having A6, you can play that hand as if it was A2. That mean that if there was a fight earlier and you suspect someone else having better than you, you can play your hand as if it was A2 instead of A6. If that player got A8 or KQ, they could react differently.

In that same example if you got 62, you can take the lowest chip even if you highly suspect someone else has lower than you, because your hand will be JJ447 anyway.

But the most important thing is '''pocket pairs'''. If you got 22, and the second 4 arrived in the river, then '''while your hand was probably the best one pre flop''', still was good post flop and after the turn, '''it became the worst one after the river''' because you don't have a triple pair, you have the lowest possible hand: JJ447. That mean that an 82 which probably took 1 or 2 pre flop is now beating you. And so you should fight for the 1 and insist a lot since it's often not obvious for others players.

If you didn't understood that, you take your best 5 cards to create your hand. That mean that AJ99752 has the same value than AJ99743: they both use AJ997 to do their best hand.

If there is no pair on the board, and you have two pairs, then you should be high. When an unrelated pair come in the flop, now everyone which previously got one pair got the same combinaison than you (or 3 of a kind). That mean that now you should rank yourself as the best of your two pairs, which could mean going down even if others didn't improved.

== 4 cards of the same color on the table ==
'Obviously' on that kind of board, what you should be doing shift completely. Per example with 4 diamonds, we now ask you to rank yourself from the highest diamond card to the lowest diamond card. A hand with an Ace of spade and a 2 of diamond is now weaker than a 4 of spade and a 3 of diamond.

You first should put attention to which player potentially have 2 diamonds on their hand, it's more likely than their highest diamond card is high.

And then pay attention to potential flush house and straight, and good luck, it's like a situational pre flop situation.

If you hit nothing, don't hesitate to goes really low.
== Very strong connectors (advanced) ==
We arrived at the end of the guide, so let's have some fun and talk again of connectors which got normally no value.
KQ is normally worst than A2, but there is lots of value of having various hand in all chips (that's why putting pairs not at the highest amount preflop have a really positive aspect too).

So if you play KQ as if you got A7, you will end up by having a KQ between two others hands with aces. When on the flop arrive one card between A, K, Q, and the low value of ace, then the problem will be resolved, and one hand will be far stronger.

The great upside is that when you compare KQ with KJ or K10, KQ will be a lot overvalued, so there will be no hesitation on which player got the better hand.

Though, on the rares cases where you got none of those cards in the table, you will need to correct your position post river, which is a great downside too.

Finally, if both A and K come during the flop, again I would advise to correct post river, that's pretty much the same problem.

Now, if you start doing the same with KJ, you lose a lot of the value, because now comparing KQ and KJ will be really difficult, so I'm a lot against doing it with that hand.

QJ is in my opinion enough strong too to be played like K5. Those are two much closer hand, so in most games that wouldn't change anything preflop.

I though about doing the same with A2 but the opposing way, but the problem with that is that if a flop J62 or J92 come, others would likely put yourself into a hand K6 or K9 which is prett bad. You have much less control of middle and bottom pair compared to top pair. So I don't like doing that: play A2 as A2.

JT start to be very messy since it's a middle hand, so I wouldn't do it neither.

You could play 87 as if it was 92 or at the middle of 87/92, that way you separate much more 87 from 86 and 85: if there is any 9, 8, 7, or 2, then there wouldn't be a downside. And do that for every strong connector, but that's a pretty minor gain.

Tips thegang

2026-05-27T08:04:43Z

Romain672: /* Full range and average hand pre-flop */ Removed combinaisons from sheets

''The following tips aren’t set-in-stone rules, but are meant to give you an idea of how communication works in this game. As a group, figure out for yourselves how you’d like to communicate best without discussing your hand.''

Do not be afraid to '''take chips away''' from other players. This is exactly how you communicate the quality of your own hand and help others to categorize you. The more the chips move, the more communication takes place.

Always evaluate the '''current state''', not how good it might still become.
'''1st Phase''': Having a pair from the start: take a high number (and higher than your first chip), otherwise evaluate the rank of your High Card.
'''From 2nd Phase''': If something was revealed in this phase that increases your rating, take a higher (or at least equally high) chip than in the previous round. This allows fellow players to draw conclusions about your specific card values.
Conversely: If nothing fitting your hand was revealed, take the same chip of the previous round, but adapt to others players choices.

== Introduction ==
This is a concise ''strategy guide'' for ''The Gang'' focused on **rank‑only** chip selection. It defines a simple, repeatable convention for mapping numbered chips to rank percentiles.

== Core conventions to adopt ==
* '''Establish a ranking convention.''' Map each chip number to a clear percentile bucket so everyone interprets chip choices the same way.
* '''Conservative default.''' On the pre‑flop stage, default to slightly conservative picks and only escalate when community cards materially change the actual hand strength.
* '''Controlled chip theft.''' Taking another player’s chip is the only legal private signal—use it to correct obvious misrankings, not to bluff.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.''' Pre‑flop picks are based on ranks only; suitedness and flush/straight potential are ignored for the initial ranking.
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking a chip quickly signals a stronger rank; taking time to pick a chip, or picking then returning a chip, signals a weaker rank.
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.''' Base your pre‑flop chip choice exclusively on the two ranks in your hand.

== Simple interpertation pre flop ==
When suits are ignored, here is what all chips initially have (you have the exact hand at the middle of the page):

*Treat any pocket pair as better than any other hand: 22>AK
* Suits has no value.
* Connectors (7&8 of diamonds) has no value.
* Timing as a soft signal post flop: Picking quickly = stronger; taking time = weaker
* No talk; use chips to correct.
* Don't put value on speculative hands.
* The median hand is around J8.

{| class="wikitable"
!Chips
!6 players
!5 players
!4 players
!3 players
|-
|6
|pairs / A high
|
|
|
|-
|5
|A low / K
|pairs / A
|
|
|-
|4
|Q / J high
|K / Q high
|pairs / A
|
|-
|3
|J low / 10
|Q low / J
|K / Q
|pairs / A / K
|-
|2
|9 / 8
|10 / 9 / 8
|J / 10 / 9
|Q / J / 10
|-
|1
|7
|7
|8 / 7
|9 / 8 / 7
|}
For 6 players put 1.5 categories in each chips starting highest, pairs counting for 1.

For 5 players do the same but pairs count for 0,5.

For 4 players put 2 categories in each chip starting highest.

For 3 players put 3 categories in each chip starting highest.

You end up with only chip 2 being slightly out of place.

== Poker mindset ==
If you are coming from Poker, you really should change your mind on some things:

Colors has no value until you hit your flush. If you start putting value to them, others with a 97 hand will have no way to compare 96s & 98o.

Connectors has no value too else that become fastly confusing. Start by taking experience and know what you are doing before maybe putting very minor value to them.

Many top players put their pairs in the highest token possible: 22>AK. Note that it's possible too to put pairs as their real value pre flop (88=middle chip), but if you do that you must put yourself at the right place post flop.
== Post flop advices ==
When hitting a double pair or better fight for the highest token. After someone steal it twice/thrice from you re-evaluate the board to look for potential straight/flushes (note that some straight are impossible from the first chip choice). Then evaluate for the bottom double pair or high one.

When having a pocket hand pair pre flop higher than all value on the table, fight for the highest token.

When hitting top pair (the pair from the highest value on the table) take the highest token. You could insist once depending of first chip choice.

When hitting middle pair, take the second highest token if that's an increase from the first round. If it's the same value or below, wait for others choices. Note that it's possible that you took the highest token twice. On that case, others doesn't know you hit a pair, and you should take in consideration for future rounds.

When hitting bottom pair, wait for others choices, and then put yourself the lowest between those which improved.

When hitting nothing while I like taking a token 1 or 2 below my first chip if nobody react, though many people ask in chat for people to never do it and take instead the same token than the previous round. Your hand can only decreate in value with 2 pairs on the board or with 1 pair and goes from double pair to 'single pair' (read the third to last section for more informations).

== Turn and River advices ==
That card start to be really situationnal.

If that new card open straight and flushes, nearly any hand could goes for the highest chip immediately. Even if you got a double pair you should be careful about fighting for this highest token. Take into consideration how many straight and flushes there is. If it's really few (1 or 2) then the player which hit those should insist a lot for the highest token. That mean with a slightly weaker hand (like double pair) you could try to insist for 6. On the contrary if there is lots of straight and flushes (4 or 9+), take a lower chip more easily.

If that new card is above all others cards a new pair most likely put yourself as the best or second best hand, so take a really high chip.

If that new card is around the same value of others, take an higher chip, and let others decide where they put yourself. They know which pair you got but you don't know which pair they got.

If that new card is below all others cards, put yourself as the higher chip between those which never improved.

Note that pocket pairs can rank weirdly.

Finallya at the River, the nuts (highest possible hand) should insist a lot for the highest token since there is nothing to lose. Knowing that, the second best hand can do the same. The third best hand can do the same but show weakness once after the fight while still showing they want the best token. Going lower than that is much trickier, especially for flushes board.

== Correcting mistakes ==
If you or someone else made a mistake that can easily be confusing.

It can be corrected naturally by someone hitting a pair, or even rarely with two pockets pairs by someone else hitting a pair.

If it's obvious what is happening you could try to correct it immediately (post flop), especially if there was some fight pre flop.

But I would advise you to let everything goes as planned, and in the final turn, still take your normal chip if the river can be confusing, and after everyone is happy with their chip, fight for the potential mistake which happened earlier. That's because when doing that, it look like to others that you hit a pair, which is extremely confusing.

== Differents ways of stealing a chip ==
Let's assume you could want the chip above you. You have a lot of ways to convey information when stealing a chip (from strongest to weakest):

- '''stealing the chip one above the one you want, put it back on the table, and steal the chip you want:''' this is often after you took too much time to react: this steal is even stronger that the default one, because you said to that other player that you are coming from the lower end of the chip above.

- '''stealing the chip:''' that's the default move

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table and waiting:''' that way is the most neutral one. You just give the decision to the other player/assume they got more informations than you. Preflop, that's normally after a fight, and you give them one last chance to be below you, and then you take the other one. Alternatively, it could mean that you want more time to think about the situation. If after a while, you take the lower or highest chip that's again some information (neutral+ or neutral-)

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table, and immediately taking the lowest one:''' that one is the weakest one. Usually by doing that you ask that other to double check what happenned earlier/confirm they really want that token. Alternatively, you could have seen that something isn't right, and want to show it to the other player, and let them decide to correct it or not. Sometimes you hit a pair, showed it post flop, the turn come with the lowest card of the table and another player take your chip because they seem to have hit a pair, so you do it while not showing extra strength.

Outside of that situation you can:

- steal the token of two others players and take back your own token if you think something isn't right between them

- take the tokens per example of everyone which hitted a pair, to put them back on the table and ask everyone to choose again

- if something is really not right (like you took the highest chip pre flop, and someone else who hit a pair is sure you hitted a pair, and don't let you be under them), you can pick some tokens completely out of place. Per example if you are fighting for 3/4/5, you can take the 1, put it back, and take the 3. That's an extremely strong sign you didn't hit that pair because you will make players with chips 1&2 being confused, so it's for emergency only.

==Full range and average hand pre-flop ==
This cheat sheet map recommended pre‑flop chips depending of the number of players. Use this at the table as a compact reference. Pairs are above all. All picks are '''rank‑only''' (no suits). Connector (7&8 of diamond) has no value.

''Note that even if the numbers are mathematiquely coherent, since pairs can often more easily be differenciated from A high, you could want to lower slightly the highest range. And I'm unsure the range should be uniform, maybe the range from the outside should be bigger.''

Finally, note that this sheet is only without context. It's great to know where you should put your hand initially. As soon as some player(s) take any chip(s), the value of that sheet fall pretty fast.

===How to read this sheet===
*This sheet assume that there will be the same amount of players going for every chip (1326 possible hands)(22100 with 3 cards hand).
*5 = top, 1 = bottom.
*'''Timing cues:''' Quick pick = stronger; taking time or returning a chip = weaker. Use timing as secondary confirmation only.
*'''Use chip takes to correct misorders''' rather than arguing.
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!3 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|16.67%
|median 1 hand
|7/5
|10/4/2
|-
|33.33%
|between 1/2 chips
|9/8
|J/10/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 2 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|66.67%
|between 2/3 chips
|K/2
|A/7/2
|-
|83.33%
|median 3 hand
|A/5
|2/2/7
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!4 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|12,5%
|median 1 hand
|7/2
|10/5/5
|-
|25%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/7
|J/4/3
|-
|37.5%
|median 2 hand
|10/5
|Q/6/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 2/3 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|62,5%
|median 3 hand
|Q/8
|K/Q/7
|-
|75%
|between 3/4 chips
|K/9
|A/J/4
|-
|87,5%
|median 4 hand
|A/8
|5/5/10
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!5 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|10%
|median 1 hand
|6/4
|8/7/6
|-
|20%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/3
|10/7/5
|-
|30%
|median 2 hand
|9/5
|J/8/6
|-
|40%
|between 2/3 chips
|10/7
|Q/8/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 3 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|60%
|between 3/4 chips
|Q/6
|K/J/8
|-
|70%
|median 4 hand
|K/5
|A/9/2
|-
|80%
|between 4/5 chips
|A/2
|A/K/3
|-
|90%
|median 5 hand
|A/10
|7/7/9
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!6 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|8,33%
|median 1 hand
|6/2
|8/6/4
|-
|16,67%
|between 1/2 chips
|7/5
|10/4/2
|-
|25%
|median 2 hand
|8/7
|J/4/3
|-
|33,33%
|between 2/3 chips
|9/8
|J/10/5
|-
|41,67%
|median 3 hand
|10/8
|Q/9/4
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 3/4 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|58,33%
|median 4 hand
|Q/5
|K/J/2
|-
|66,67%
|between 4/5 chips
|K/2
|A/7/2
|-
|75%
|median 5 hand
|K/9
|A/J/4
|-
|83,33%
|between 5/6 chips
|A/5
|2/2/7
|-
|91,67%
|median 6 hand
|A/J
|8/8/Q
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}

*''There was before another column which put an equal amount of combinaisons for every chip, but the 3 cards hand with it was way too out of place: A62 being median hand, and 337 being between chip 4 and 5 at 6 players was so unnatural.''

== Double pairs on the table (and single pair) ==
When there is two pairs on the table, and you hit nothing, only your highest card count.

That mean per example with a board JJ447, and you having A6, you can play that hand as if it was A2. That mean that if there was a fight earlier and you suspect someone else having better than you, you can play your hand as if it was A2 instead of A6. If that player got A8 or KQ, they could react differently.

In that same example if you got 62, you can take the lowest chip even if you highly suspect someone else has lower than you, because your hand will be JJ447 anyway.

But the most important thing is '''pocket pairs'''. If you got 22, and the second 4 arrived in the river, then '''while your hand was probably the best one pre flop''', still was good post flop and after the turn, '''it became the worst one after the river''' because you don't have a triple pair, you have the lowest possible hand: JJ447. That mean that an 82 which probably took 1 or 2 pre flop is now beating you. And so you should fight for the 1 and insist a lot since it's often not obvious for others players.

If you didn't understood that, you take your best 5 cards to create your hand. That mean that AJ99752 has the same value than AJ99743: they both use AJ997 to do their best hand.

If there is no pair on the board, and you have two pairs, then you should be high. When an unrelated pair come in the flop, now everyone which previously got one pair got the same combinaison than you (or 3 of a kind). That mean that now you should rank yourself as the best of your two pairs, which could mean going down even if others didn't improved.

== 4 cards of the same color on the table ==
'Obviously' on that kind of board, what you should be doing shift completely. Per example with 4 diamonds, we now ask you to rank yourself from the highest diamond card to the lowest diamond card. A hand with an Ace of spade and a 2 of diamond is now weaker than a 4 of spade and a 3 of diamond.

You first should put attention to which player potentially have 2 diamonds on their hand, it's more likely than their highest diamond card is high.

And then pay attention to potential flush house and straight, and good luck, it's like a situational pre flop situation.

If you hit nothing, don't hesitate to goes really low.
== Very strong connectors (advanced) ==
We arrived at the end of the guide, so let's have some fun and talk again of connectors which got normally no value.
KQ is normally worst than A2, but there is lots of value of having various hand in all chips (that's why putting pairs not at the highest amount preflop have a really positive aspect too).

So if you play KQ as if you got A7, you will end up by having a KQ between two others hands with aces. When on the flop arrive one card between A, K, Q, and the low value of ace, then the problem will be resolved, and one hand will be far stronger.

The great upside is that when you compare KQ with KJ or K10, KQ will be a lot overvalued, so there will be no hesitation on which player got the better hand.

Though, on the rares cases where you got none of those cards in the table, you will need to correct your position post river, which is a great downside too.

Finally, if both A and K come during the flop, again I would advise to correct post river, that's pretty much the same problem.

Now, if you start doing the same with KJ, you lose a lot of the value, because now comparing KQ and KJ will be really difficult, so I'm a lot against doing it with that hand.

QJ is in my opinion enough strong too to be played like K5. Those are two much closer hand, so in most games that wouldn't change anything preflop.

I though about doing the same with A2 but the opposing way, but the problem with that is that if a flop J62 or J92 come, others would likely put yourself into a hand K6 or K9 which is prett bad. You have much less control of middle and bottom pair compared to top pair. So I don't like doing that: play A2 as A2.

JT start to be very messy since it's a middle hand, so I wouldn't do it neither.

You could play 87 as if it was 92 or at the middle of 87/92, that way you separate much more 87 from 86 and 85: if there is any 9, 8, 7, or 2, then there wouldn't be a downside. And do that for every strong connector, but that's a pretty minor gain.

Tips thegang

2026-05-26T19:28:24Z

Romain672: /* 4 cards of the same color on the table */

''The following tips aren’t set-in-stone rules, but are meant to give you an idea of how communication works in this game. As a group, figure out for yourselves how you’d like to communicate best without discussing your hand.''

Do not be afraid to '''take chips away''' from other players. This is exactly how you communicate the quality of your own hand and help others to categorize you. The more the chips move, the more communication takes place.

Always evaluate the '''current state''', not how good it might still become.
'''1st Phase''': Having a pair from the start: take a high number (and higher than your first chip), otherwise evaluate the rank of your High Card.
'''From 2nd Phase''': If something was revealed in this phase that increases your rating, take a higher (or at least equally high) chip than in the previous round. This allows fellow players to draw conclusions about your specific card values.
Conversely: If nothing fitting your hand was revealed, take the same chip of the previous round, but adapt to others players choices.

== Introduction ==
This is a concise ''strategy guide'' for ''The Gang'' focused on **rank‑only** chip selection. It defines a simple, repeatable convention for mapping numbered chips to rank percentiles.

== Core conventions to adopt ==
* '''Establish a ranking convention.''' Map each chip number to a clear percentile bucket so everyone interprets chip choices the same way.
* '''Conservative default.''' On the pre‑flop stage, default to slightly conservative picks and only escalate when community cards materially change the actual hand strength.
* '''Controlled chip theft.''' Taking another player’s chip is the only legal private signal—use it to correct obvious misrankings, not to bluff.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.''' Pre‑flop picks are based on ranks only; suitedness and flush/straight potential are ignored for the initial ranking.
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking a chip quickly signals a stronger rank; taking time to pick a chip, or picking then returning a chip, signals a weaker rank.
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.''' Base your pre‑flop chip choice exclusively on the two ranks in your hand.

== Simple interpertation pre flop ==
When suits are ignored, here is what all chips initially have (you have the exact hand at the middle of the page):

*Treat any pocket pair as better than any other hand: 22>AK
* Suits has no value.
* Connectors (7&8 of diamonds) has no value.
* Timing as a soft signal post flop: Picking quickly = stronger; taking time = weaker
* No talk; use chips to correct.
* Don't put value on speculative hands.
* The median hand is around J8.

{| class="wikitable"
!Chips
!6 players
!5 players
!4 players
!3 players
|-
|6
|pairs / A high
|
|
|
|-
|5
|A low / K
|pairs / A
|
|
|-
|4
|Q / J high
|K / Q high
|pairs / A
|
|-
|3
|J low / 10
|Q low / J
|K / Q
|pairs / A / K
|-
|2
|9 / 8
|10 / 9 / 8
|J / 10 / 9
|Q / J / 10
|-
|1
|7
|7
|8 / 7
|9 / 8 / 7
|}
For 6 players put 1.5 categories in each chips starting highest, pairs counting for 1.

For 5 players do the same but pairs count for 0,5.

For 4 players put 2 categories in each chip starting highest.

For 3 players put 3 categories in each chip starting highest.

You end up with only chip 2 being slightly out of place.

== Poker mindset ==
If you are coming from Poker, you really should change your mind on some things:

Colors has no value until you hit your flush. If you start putting value to them, others with a 97 hand will have no way to compare 96s & 98o.

Connectors has no value too else that become fastly confusing. Start by taking experience and know what you are doing before maybe putting very minor value to them.

Many top players put their pairs in the highest token possible: 22>AK. Note that it's possible too to put pairs as their real value pre flop (88=middle chip), but if you do that you must put yourself at the right place post flop.
== Post flop advices ==
When hitting a double pair or better fight for the highest token. After someone steal it twice/thrice from you re-evaluate the board to look for potential straight/flushes (note that some straight are impossible from the first chip choice). Then evaluate for the bottom double pair or high one.

When having a pocket hand pair pre flop higher than all value on the table, fight for the highest token.

When hitting top pair (the pair from the highest value on the table) take the highest token. You could insist once depending of first chip choice.

When hitting middle pair, take the second highest token if that's an increase from the first round. If it's the same value or below, wait for others choices. Note that it's possible that you took the highest token twice. On that case, others doesn't know you hit a pair, and you should take in consideration for future rounds.

When hitting bottom pair, wait for others choices, and then put yourself the lowest between those which improved.

When hitting nothing while I like taking a token 1 or 2 below my first chip if nobody react, though many people ask in chat for people to never do it and take instead the same token than the previous round. Your hand can only decreate in value with 2 pairs on the board or with 1 pair and goes from double pair to 'single pair' (read the third to last section for more informations).

== Turn and River advices ==
That card start to be really situationnal.

If that new card open straight and flushes, nearly any hand could goes for the highest chip immediately. Even if you got a double pair you should be careful about fighting for this highest token. Take into consideration how many straight and flushes there is. If it's really few (1 or 2) then the player which hit those should insist a lot for the highest token. That mean with a slightly weaker hand (like double pair) you could try to insist for 6. On the contrary if there is lots of straight and flushes (4 or 9+), take a lower chip more easily.

If that new card is above all others cards a new pair most likely put yourself as the best or second best hand, so take a really high chip.

If that new card is around the same value of others, take an higher chip, and let others decide where they put yourself. They know which pair you got but you don't know which pair they got.

If that new card is below all others cards, put yourself as the higher chip between those which never improved.

Note that pocket pairs can rank weirdly.

Finallya at the River, the nuts (highest possible hand) should insist a lot for the highest token since there is nothing to lose. Knowing that, the second best hand can do the same. The third best hand can do the same but show weakness once after the fight while still showing they want the best token. Going lower than that is much trickier, especially for flushes board.

== Correcting mistakes ==
If you or someone else made a mistake that can easily be confusing.

It can be corrected naturally by someone hitting a pair, or even rarely with two pockets pairs by someone else hitting a pair.

If it's obvious what is happening you could try to correct it immediately (post flop), especially if there was some fight pre flop.

But I would advise you to let everything goes as planned, and in the final turn, still take your normal chip if the river can be confusing, and after everyone is happy with their chip, fight for the potential mistake which happened earlier. That's because when doing that, it look like to others that you hit a pair, which is extremely confusing.

== Differents ways of stealing a chip ==
Let's assume you could want the chip above you. You have a lot of ways to convey information when stealing a chip (from strongest to weakest):

- '''stealing the chip one above the one you want, put it back on the table, and steal the chip you want:''' this is often after you took too much time to react: this steal is even stronger that the default one, because you said to that other player that you are coming from the lower end of the chip above.

- '''stealing the chip:''' that's the default move

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table and waiting:''' that way is the most neutral one. You just give the decision to the other player/assume they got more informations than you. Preflop, that's normally after a fight, and you give them one last chance to be below you, and then you take the other one. Alternatively, it could mean that you want more time to think about the situation. If after a while, you take the lower or highest chip that's again some information (neutral+ or neutral-)

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table, and immediately taking the lowest one:''' that one is the weakest one. Usually by doing that you ask that other to double check what happenned earlier/confirm they really want that token. Alternatively, you could have seen that something isn't right, and want to show it to the other player, and let them decide to correct it or not. Sometimes you hit a pair, showed it post flop, the turn come with the lowest card of the table and another player take your chip because they seem to have hit a pair, so you do it while not showing extra strength.

Outside of that situation you can:

- steal the token of two others players and take back your own token if you think something isn't right between them

- take the tokens per example of everyone which hitted a pair, to put them back on the table and ask everyone to choose again

- if something is really not right (like you took the highest chip pre flop, and someone else who hit a pair is sure you hitted a pair, and don't let you be under them), you can pick some tokens completely out of place. Per example if you are fighting for 3/4/5, you can take the 1, put it back, and take the 3. That's an extremely strong sign you didn't hit that pair because you will make players with chips 1&2 being confused, so it's for emergency only.

==Full range and average hand pre-flop ==
This cheat sheet map recommended pre‑flop chips depending of the number of players. Use this at the table as a compact reference. Pairs are above all. All picks are '''rank‑only''' (no suits). Connector (7&8 of diamond) has no value.

''Note that even if the numbers are mathematiquely coherent, since pairs can often more easily be differenciated from A high, you could want to lower slightly the highest range. And I'm unsure the range should be uniform, maybe the range from the outside should be bigger.''

Finally, note that this sheet is only without context. It's great to know where you should put your hand initially. As soon as some player(s) take any chip(s), the value of that sheet fall pretty fast.

===How to read this sheet===
*The 1326 part assume that there will be the same amount of players going for every chip (1326 possible hands)(22100 with 3 cards hand)
*The 91 part assume that there will be an equal amount of combinaisons for every chip (91 combinaisons)(455 with 3 cards hand)
*5 = top, 1 = bottom.
*'''Timing cues:''' Quick pick = stronger; taking time or returning a chip = weaker. Use timing as secondary confirmation only.
*'''Use chip takes to correct misorders''' rather than arguing.
*ph=possible hands, c=combinaisons
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!3 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|16.67%
|median 1 hand
|7/5
|7/6
|10/4/2
|10/8/5
|-
|33.33%
|between 1/2 chips
|9/8
|10/3
|J/10/5
|Q/10/4
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 2 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|66.67%
|between 2/3 chips
|K/2
|K/6
|A/7/2
|3/3/7
|-
|83.33%
|median 3 hand
|A/5
|A/10
|2/2/7
|9/9/J
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!4 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|12,5%
|median 1 hand
| colspan="2" |7/2
|10/5/5
|9/8/7
|-
|25%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/7
|9/2
|J/4/3
|J/10/2
|-
|37.5%
|median 2 hand
|10/5
|10/7
|Q/6/5
|K/5/3
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 2/3 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|62,5%
|median 3 hand
|Q/8
|K/2
|K/Q/7
|A/K/10
|-
|75%
|between 3/4 chips
|K/9
|A/3
|A/J/4
|6/6/9
|-
|87,5%
|median 4 hand
|A/8
|2/2
|5/5/10
|J/J/5
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!5 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|10%
|median 1 hand
| colspan="2" |6/4
|8/7/6
|9/6/5
|-
|20%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/3
|8/4
|10/7/5
|J/5/4
|-
|30%
|median 2 hand
|9/5
|9/7
|J/8/6
|Q/8/2
|-
|40%
|between 2/3 chips
|10/7
|10/9
|Q/8/5
|K/8/2
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 3 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|60%
|between 3/4 chips
|Q/6
|Q/10
|K/J/8
|A/Q/8
|-
|70%
|median 4 hand
|K/5
|K/9
|A/9/2
|4/4/10
|-
|80%
|between 4/5 chips
|A/2
|A/7
|A/K/3
|8/8/6
|-
|90%
|median 5 hand
|A/10
|4/4
|7/7/9
|Q/Q/4
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!6 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|8,33%
|median 1 hand
| colspan="2" |6/2
|8/6/4
|9/4/2
|-
|16,67%
|between 1/2 chips
|7/5
|7/6
|10/4/2
|10/8/5
|-
|25%
|median 2 hand
|8/7
|9/2
|J/4/3
|J/10/2
|-
|33,33%
|between 2/3 chips
|9/8
|10/3
|J/10/5
|Q/10/4
|-
|41,67%
|median 3 hand
|10/8
|J/2
|Q/9/4
|K/9/4
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 3/4 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|58,33%
|median 4 hand
|Q/5
|Q/9
|K/J/2
|A/J/10
|-
|66,67%
|between 4/5 chips
|K/2
|K/6
|A/7/2
|3/3/7
|-
|75%
|median 5 hand
|K/9
|A/3
|A/J/4
|6/6/9
|-
|83,33%
|between 5/6 chips
|A/5
|A/10
|2/2/7
|9/9/J
|-
|91,67%
|median 6 hand
|A/J
|6/6
|8/8/Q
|Q/Q/K
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}

== Double pairs on the table (and single pair) ==
When there is two pairs on the table, and you hit nothing, only your highest card count.

That mean per example with a board JJ447, and you having A6, you can play that hand as if it was A2. That mean that if there was a fight earlier and you suspect someone else having better than you, you can play your hand as if it was A2 instead of A6. If that player got A8 or KQ, they could react differently.

In that same example if you got 62, you can take the lowest chip even if you highly suspect someone else has lower than you, because your hand will be JJ447 anyway.

But the most important thing is '''pocket pairs'''. If you got 22, and the second 4 arrived in the river, then '''while your hand was probably the best one pre flop''', still was good post flop and after the turn, '''it became the worst one after the river''' because you don't have a triple pair, you have the lowest possible hand: JJ447. That mean that an 82 which probably took 1 or 2 pre flop is now beating you. And so you should fight for the 1 and insist a lot since it's often not obvious for others players.

If you didn't understood that, you take your best 5 cards to create your hand. That mean that AJ99752 has the same value than AJ99743: they both use AJ997 to do their best hand.

If there is no pair on the board, and you have two pairs, then you should be high. When an unrelated pair come in the flop, now everyone which previously got one pair got the same combinaison than you (or 3 of a kind). That mean that now you should rank yourself as the best of your two pairs, which could mean going down even if others didn't improved.

== 4 cards of the same color on the table ==
'Obviously' on that kind of board, what you should be doing shift completely. Per example with 4 diamonds, we now ask you to rank yourself from the highest diamond card to the lowest diamond card. A hand with an Ace of spade and a 2 of diamond is now weaker than a 4 of spade and a 3 of diamond.

You first should put attention to which player potentially have 2 diamonds on their hand, it's more likely than their highest diamond card is high.

And then pay attention to potential flush house and straight, and good luck, it's like a situational pre flop situation.

If you hit nothing, don't hesitate to goes really low.
== Very strong connectors (advanced) ==
We arrived at the end of the guide, so let's have some fun and talk again of connectors which got normally no value.
KQ is normally worst than A2, but there is lots of value of having various hand in all chips (that's why putting pairs not at the highest amount preflop have a really positive aspect too).

So if you play KQ as if you got A7, you will end up by having a KQ between two others hands with aces. When on the flop arrive one card between A, K, Q, and the low value of ace, then the problem will be resolved, and one hand will be far stronger.

The great upside is that when you compare KQ with KJ or K10, KQ will be a lot overvalued, so there will be no hesitation on which player got the better hand.

Though, on the rares cases where you got none of those cards in the table, you will need to correct your position post river, which is a great downside too.

Finally, if both A and K come during the flop, again I would advise to correct post river, that's pretty much the same problem.

Now, if you start doing the same with KJ, you lose a lot of the value, because now comparing KQ and KJ will be really difficult, so I'm a lot against doing it with that hand.

QJ is in my opinion enough strong too to be played like K5. Those are two much closer hand, so in most games that wouldn't change anything preflop.

I though about doing the same with A2 but the opposing way, but the problem with that is that if a flop J62 or J92 come, others would likely put yourself into a hand K6 or K9 which is prett bad. You have much less control of middle and bottom pair compared to top pair. So I don't like doing that: play A2 as A2.

JT start to be very messy since it's a middle hand, so I wouldn't do it neither.

You could play 87 as if it was 92 or at the middle of 87/92, that way you separate much more 87 from 86 and 85: if there is any 9, 8, 7, or 2, then there wouldn't be a downside. And do that for every strong connector, but that's a pretty minor gain.

Tips thegang

2026-05-26T19:11:59Z

Romain672: /* 4 cards of the same color on the table */

''The following tips aren’t set-in-stone rules, but are meant to give you an idea of how communication works in this game. As a group, figure out for yourselves how you’d like to communicate best without discussing your hand.''

Do not be afraid to '''take chips away''' from other players. This is exactly how you communicate the quality of your own hand and help others to categorize you. The more the chips move, the more communication takes place.

Always evaluate the '''current state''', not how good it might still become.
'''1st Phase''': Having a pair from the start: take a high number (and higher than your first chip), otherwise evaluate the rank of your High Card.
'''From 2nd Phase''': If something was revealed in this phase that increases your rating, take a higher (or at least equally high) chip than in the previous round. This allows fellow players to draw conclusions about your specific card values.
Conversely: If nothing fitting your hand was revealed, take the same chip of the previous round, but adapt to others players choices.

== Introduction ==
This is a concise ''strategy guide'' for ''The Gang'' focused on **rank‑only** chip selection. It defines a simple, repeatable convention for mapping numbered chips to rank percentiles.

== Core conventions to adopt ==
* '''Establish a ranking convention.''' Map each chip number to a clear percentile bucket so everyone interprets chip choices the same way.
* '''Conservative default.''' On the pre‑flop stage, default to slightly conservative picks and only escalate when community cards materially change the actual hand strength.
* '''Controlled chip theft.''' Taking another player’s chip is the only legal private signal—use it to correct obvious misrankings, not to bluff.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.''' Pre‑flop picks are based on ranks only; suitedness and flush/straight potential are ignored for the initial ranking.
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking a chip quickly signals a stronger rank; taking time to pick a chip, or picking then returning a chip, signals a weaker rank.
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.''' Base your pre‑flop chip choice exclusively on the two ranks in your hand.

== Simple interpertation pre flop ==
When suits are ignored, here is what all chips initially have (you have the exact hand at the middle of the page):

*Treat any pocket pair as better than any other hand: 22>AK
* Suits has no value.
* Connectors (7&8 of diamonds) has no value.
* Timing as a soft signal post flop: Picking quickly = stronger; taking time = weaker
* No talk; use chips to correct.
* Don't put value on speculative hands.
* The median hand is around J8.

{| class="wikitable"
!Chips
!6 players
!5 players
!4 players
!3 players
|-
|6
|pairs / A high
|
|
|
|-
|5
|A low / K
|pairs / A
|
|
|-
|4
|Q / J high
|K / Q high
|pairs / A
|
|-
|3
|J low / 10
|Q low / J
|K / Q
|pairs / A / K
|-
|2
|9 / 8
|10 / 9 / 8
|J / 10 / 9
|Q / J / 10
|-
|1
|7
|7
|8 / 7
|9 / 8 / 7
|}
For 6 players put 1.5 categories in each chips starting highest, pairs counting for 1.

For 5 players do the same but pairs count for 0,5.

For 4 players put 2 categories in each chip starting highest.

For 3 players put 3 categories in each chip starting highest.

You end up with only chip 2 being slightly out of place.

== Poker mindset ==
If you are coming from Poker, you really should change your mind on some things:

Colors has no value until you hit your flush. If you start putting value to them, others with a 97 hand will have no way to compare 96s & 98o.

Connectors has no value too else that become fastly confusing. Start by taking experience and know what you are doing before maybe putting very minor value to them.

Many top players put their pairs in the highest token possible: 22>AK. Note that it's possible too to put pairs as their real value pre flop (88=middle chip), but if you do that you must put yourself at the right place post flop.
== Post flop advices ==
When hitting a double pair or better fight for the highest token. After someone steal it twice/thrice from you re-evaluate the board to look for potential straight/flushes (note that some straight are impossible from the first chip choice). Then evaluate for the bottom double pair or high one.

When having a pocket hand pair pre flop higher than all value on the table, fight for the highest token.

When hitting top pair (the pair from the highest value on the table) take the highest token. You could insist once depending of first chip choice.

When hitting middle pair, take the second highest token if that's an increase from the first round. If it's the same value or below, wait for others choices. Note that it's possible that you took the highest token twice. On that case, others doesn't know you hit a pair, and you should take in consideration for future rounds.

When hitting bottom pair, wait for others choices, and then put yourself the lowest between those which improved.

When hitting nothing while I like taking a token 1 or 2 below my first chip if nobody react, though many people ask in chat for people to never do it and take instead the same token than the previous round. Your hand can only decreate in value with 2 pairs on the board or with 1 pair and goes from double pair to 'single pair' (read the third to last section for more informations).

== Turn and River advices ==
That card start to be really situationnal.

If that new card open straight and flushes, nearly any hand could goes for the highest chip immediately. Even if you got a double pair you should be careful about fighting for this highest token. Take into consideration how many straight and flushes there is. If it's really few (1 or 2) then the player which hit those should insist a lot for the highest token. That mean with a slightly weaker hand (like double pair) you could try to insist for 6. On the contrary if there is lots of straight and flushes (4 or 9+), take a lower chip more easily.

If that new card is above all others cards a new pair most likely put yourself as the best or second best hand, so take a really high chip.

If that new card is around the same value of others, take an higher chip, and let others decide where they put yourself. They know which pair you got but you don't know which pair they got.

If that new card is below all others cards, put yourself as the higher chip between those which never improved.

Note that pocket pairs can rank weirdly.

Finallya at the River, the nuts (highest possible hand) should insist a lot for the highest token since there is nothing to lose. Knowing that, the second best hand can do the same. The third best hand can do the same but show weakness once after the fight while still showing they want the best token. Going lower than that is much trickier, especially for flushes board.

== Correcting mistakes ==
If you or someone else made a mistake that can easily be confusing.

It can be corrected naturally by someone hitting a pair, or even rarely with two pockets pairs by someone else hitting a pair.

If it's obvious what is happening you could try to correct it immediately (post flop), especially if there was some fight pre flop.

But I would advise you to let everything goes as planned, and in the final turn, still take your normal chip if the river can be confusing, and after everyone is happy with their chip, fight for the potential mistake which happened earlier. That's because when doing that, it look like to others that you hit a pair, which is extremely confusing.

== Differents ways of stealing a chip ==
Let's assume you could want the chip above you. You have a lot of ways to convey information when stealing a chip (from strongest to weakest):

- '''stealing the chip one above the one you want, put it back on the table, and steal the chip you want:''' this is often after you took too much time to react: this steal is even stronger that the default one, because you said to that other player that you are coming from the lower end of the chip above.

- '''stealing the chip:''' that's the default move

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table and waiting:''' that way is the most neutral one. You just give the decision to the other player/assume they got more informations than you. Preflop, that's normally after a fight, and you give them one last chance to be below you, and then you take the other one. Alternatively, it could mean that you want more time to think about the situation. If after a while, you take the lower or highest chip that's again some information (neutral+ or neutral-)

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table, and immediately taking the lowest one:''' that one is the weakest one. Usually by doing that you ask that other to double check what happenned earlier/confirm they really want that token. Alternatively, you could have seen that something isn't right, and want to show it to the other player, and let them decide to correct it or not. Sometimes you hit a pair, showed it post flop, the turn come with the lowest card of the table and another player take your chip because they seem to have hit a pair, so you do it while not showing extra strength.

Outside of that situation you can:

- steal the token of two others players and take back your own token if you think something isn't right between them

- take the tokens per example of everyone which hitted a pair, to put them back on the table and ask everyone to choose again

- if something is really not right (like you took the highest chip pre flop, and someone else who hit a pair is sure you hitted a pair, and don't let you be under them), you can pick some tokens completely out of place. Per example if you are fighting for 3/4/5, you can take the 1, put it back, and take the 3. That's an extremely strong sign you didn't hit that pair because you will make players with chips 1&2 being confused, so it's for emergency only.

==Full range and average hand pre-flop ==
This cheat sheet map recommended pre‑flop chips depending of the number of players. Use this at the table as a compact reference. Pairs are above all. All picks are '''rank‑only''' (no suits). Connector (7&8 of diamond) has no value.

''Note that even if the numbers are mathematiquely coherent, since pairs can often more easily be differenciated from A high, you could want to lower slightly the highest range. And I'm unsure the range should be uniform, maybe the range from the outside should be bigger.''

Finally, note that this sheet is only without context. It's great to know where you should put your hand initially. As soon as some player(s) take any chip(s), the value of that sheet fall pretty fast.

===How to read this sheet===
*The 1326 part assume that there will be the same amount of players going for every chip (1326 possible hands)(22100 with 3 cards hand)
*The 91 part assume that there will be an equal amount of combinaisons for every chip (91 combinaisons)(455 with 3 cards hand)
*5 = top, 1 = bottom.
*'''Timing cues:''' Quick pick = stronger; taking time or returning a chip = weaker. Use timing as secondary confirmation only.
*'''Use chip takes to correct misorders''' rather than arguing.
*ph=possible hands, c=combinaisons
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!3 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|16.67%
|median 1 hand
|7/5
|7/6
|10/4/2
|10/8/5
|-
|33.33%
|between 1/2 chips
|9/8
|10/3
|J/10/5
|Q/10/4
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 2 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|66.67%
|between 2/3 chips
|K/2
|K/6
|A/7/2
|3/3/7
|-
|83.33%
|median 3 hand
|A/5
|A/10
|2/2/7
|9/9/J
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!4 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|12,5%
|median 1 hand
| colspan="2" |7/2
|10/5/5
|9/8/7
|-
|25%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/7
|9/2
|J/4/3
|J/10/2
|-
|37.5%
|median 2 hand
|10/5
|10/7
|Q/6/5
|K/5/3
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 2/3 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|62,5%
|median 3 hand
|Q/8
|K/2
|K/Q/7
|A/K/10
|-
|75%
|between 3/4 chips
|K/9
|A/3
|A/J/4
|6/6/9
|-
|87,5%
|median 4 hand
|A/8
|2/2
|5/5/10
|J/J/5
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!5 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|10%
|median 1 hand
| colspan="2" |6/4
|8/7/6
|9/6/5
|-
|20%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/3
|8/4
|10/7/5
|J/5/4
|-
|30%
|median 2 hand
|9/5
|9/7
|J/8/6
|Q/8/2
|-
|40%
|between 2/3 chips
|10/7
|10/9
|Q/8/5
|K/8/2
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 3 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|60%
|between 3/4 chips
|Q/6
|Q/10
|K/J/8
|A/Q/8
|-
|70%
|median 4 hand
|K/5
|K/9
|A/9/2
|4/4/10
|-
|80%
|between 4/5 chips
|A/2
|A/7
|A/K/3
|8/8/6
|-
|90%
|median 5 hand
|A/10
|4/4
|7/7/9
|Q/Q/4
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!6 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|8,33%
|median 1 hand
| colspan="2" |6/2
|8/6/4
|9/4/2
|-
|16,67%
|between 1/2 chips
|7/5
|7/6
|10/4/2
|10/8/5
|-
|25%
|median 2 hand
|8/7
|9/2
|J/4/3
|J/10/2
|-
|33,33%
|between 2/3 chips
|9/8
|10/3
|J/10/5
|Q/10/4
|-
|41,67%
|median 3 hand
|10/8
|J/2
|Q/9/4
|K/9/4
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 3/4 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|58,33%
|median 4 hand
|Q/5
|Q/9
|K/J/2
|A/J/10
|-
|66,67%
|between 4/5 chips
|K/2
|K/6
|A/7/2
|3/3/7
|-
|75%
|median 5 hand
|K/9
|A/3
|A/J/4
|6/6/9
|-
|83,33%
|between 5/6 chips
|A/5
|A/10
|2/2/7
|9/9/J
|-
|91,67%
|median 6 hand
|A/J
|6/6
|8/8/Q
|Q/Q/K
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}

== Double pairs on the table (and single pair) ==
When there is two pairs on the table, and you hit nothing, only your highest card count.

That mean per example with a board JJ447, and you having A6, you can play that hand as if it was A2. That mean that if there was a fight earlier and you suspect someone else having better than you, you can play your hand as if it was A2 instead of A6. If that player got A8 or KQ, they could react differently.

In that same example if you got 62, you can take the lowest chip even if you highly suspect someone else has lower than you, because your hand will be JJ447 anyway.

But the most important thing is '''pocket pairs'''. If you got 22, and the second 4 arrived in the river, then '''while your hand was probably the best one pre flop''', still was good post flop and after the turn, '''it became the worst one after the river''' because you don't have a triple pair, you have the lowest possible hand: JJ447. That mean that an 82 which probably took 1 or 2 pre flop is now beating you. And so you should fight for the 1 and insist a lot since it's often not obvious for others players.

If you didn't understood that, you take your best 5 cards to create your hand. That mean that AJ99752 has the same value than AJ99743: they both use AJ997 to do their best hand.

If there is no pair on the board, and you have two pairs, then you should be high. When an unrelated pair come in the flop, now everyone which previously got one pair got the same combinaison than you (or 3 of a kind). That mean that now you should rank yourself as the best of your two pairs, which could mean going down even if others didn't improved.

== 4 cards of the same color on the table ==
'Obviously' on that kind of board, what you should be doing shift completely. Per example with 4 diamonds, we now ask you to rank yourself from the highest diamond card to the lowest diamond card. A hand with an Ace of spade and a 2 of diamond is now weaker than a 4 of spade and a 3 of diamond.

You first should put attention to which player potentially have 2 diamonds on their hand, it's more likely than their highest diamond card is high.

And then pay attention to potential flush house and straight, and good luck, it's like a situational pre flop situation.

If you hit nothing, don't hesitate to goes really low.
== Very strong connectors (advanced) ==
We arrived at the end of the guide, so let's have some fun and talk again of connectors which got normally no value.
KQ is normally worst than A2, but there is lots of value of having various hand in all chips (that's why putting pairs not at the highest amount preflop have a really positive aspect too).

So if you play KQ as if you got A7, you will end up by having a KQ between two others hands with aces. When on the flop arrive one card between A, K, Q, and the low value of ace, then the problem will be resolved, and one hand will be far stronger.

The great upside is that when you compare KQ with KJ or K10, KQ will be a lot overvalued, so there will be no hesitation on which player got the better hand.

Though, on the rares cases where you got none of those cards in the table, you will need to correct your position post river, which is a great downside too.

Finally, if both A and K come during the flop, again I would advise to correct post river, that's pretty much the same problem.

Now, if you start doing the same with KJ, you lose a lot of the value, because now comparing KQ and KJ will be really difficult, so I'm a lot against doing it with that hand.

QJ is in my opinion enough strong too to be played like K5. Those are two much closer hand, so in most games that wouldn't change anything preflop.

I though about doing the same with A2 but the opposing way, but the problem with that is that if a flop J62 or J92 come, others would likely put yourself into a hand K6 or K9 which is prett bad. You have much less control of middle and bottom pair compared to top pair. So I don't like doing that: play A2 as A2.

Finally JT start to be very messy since it's a middle hand, so I wouldn't do it neither.

Tips thegang

2026-05-26T19:11:01Z

Romain672: +1 final section about strong connectors

''The following tips aren’t set-in-stone rules, but are meant to give you an idea of how communication works in this game. As a group, figure out for yourselves how you’d like to communicate best without discussing your hand.''

Do not be afraid to '''take chips away''' from other players. This is exactly how you communicate the quality of your own hand and help others to categorize you. The more the chips move, the more communication takes place.

Always evaluate the '''current state''', not how good it might still become.
'''1st Phase''': Having a pair from the start: take a high number (and higher than your first chip), otherwise evaluate the rank of your High Card.
'''From 2nd Phase''': If something was revealed in this phase that increases your rating, take a higher (or at least equally high) chip than in the previous round. This allows fellow players to draw conclusions about your specific card values.
Conversely: If nothing fitting your hand was revealed, take the same chip of the previous round, but adapt to others players choices.

== Introduction ==
This is a concise ''strategy guide'' for ''The Gang'' focused on **rank‑only** chip selection. It defines a simple, repeatable convention for mapping numbered chips to rank percentiles.

== Core conventions to adopt ==
* '''Establish a ranking convention.''' Map each chip number to a clear percentile bucket so everyone interprets chip choices the same way.
* '''Conservative default.''' On the pre‑flop stage, default to slightly conservative picks and only escalate when community cards materially change the actual hand strength.
* '''Controlled chip theft.''' Taking another player’s chip is the only legal private signal—use it to correct obvious misrankings, not to bluff.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.''' Pre‑flop picks are based on ranks only; suitedness and flush/straight potential are ignored for the initial ranking.
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking a chip quickly signals a stronger rank; taking time to pick a chip, or picking then returning a chip, signals a weaker rank.
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.''' Base your pre‑flop chip choice exclusively on the two ranks in your hand.

== Simple interpertation pre flop ==
When suits are ignored, here is what all chips initially have (you have the exact hand at the middle of the page):

*Treat any pocket pair as better than any other hand: 22>AK
* Suits has no value.
* Connectors (7&8 of diamonds) has no value.
* Timing as a soft signal post flop: Picking quickly = stronger; taking time = weaker
* No talk; use chips to correct.
* Don't put value on speculative hands.
* The median hand is around J8.

{| class="wikitable"
!Chips
!6 players
!5 players
!4 players
!3 players
|-
|6
|pairs / A high
|
|
|
|-
|5
|A low / K
|pairs / A
|
|
|-
|4
|Q / J high
|K / Q high
|pairs / A
|
|-
|3
|J low / 10
|Q low / J
|K / Q
|pairs / A / K
|-
|2
|9 / 8
|10 / 9 / 8
|J / 10 / 9
|Q / J / 10
|-
|1
|7
|7
|8 / 7
|9 / 8 / 7
|}
For 6 players put 1.5 categories in each chips starting highest, pairs counting for 1.

For 5 players do the same but pairs count for 0,5.

For 4 players put 2 categories in each chip starting highest.

For 3 players put 3 categories in each chip starting highest.

You end up with only chip 2 being slightly out of place.

== Poker mindset ==
If you are coming from Poker, you really should change your mind on some things:

Colors has no value until you hit your flush. If you start putting value to them, others with a 97 hand will have no way to compare 96s & 98o.

Connectors has no value too else that become fastly confusing. Start by taking experience and know what you are doing before maybe putting very minor value to them.

Many top players put their pairs in the highest token possible: 22>AK. Note that it's possible too to put pairs as their real value pre flop (88=middle chip), but if you do that you must put yourself at the right place post flop.
== Post flop advices ==
When hitting a double pair or better fight for the highest token. After someone steal it twice/thrice from you re-evaluate the board to look for potential straight/flushes (note that some straight are impossible from the first chip choice). Then evaluate for the bottom double pair or high one.

When having a pocket hand pair pre flop higher than all value on the table, fight for the highest token.

When hitting top pair (the pair from the highest value on the table) take the highest token. You could insist once depending of first chip choice.

When hitting middle pair, take the second highest token if that's an increase from the first round. If it's the same value or below, wait for others choices. Note that it's possible that you took the highest token twice. On that case, others doesn't know you hit a pair, and you should take in consideration for future rounds.

When hitting bottom pair, wait for others choices, and then put yourself the lowest between those which improved.

When hitting nothing while I like taking a token 1 or 2 below my first chip if nobody react, though many people ask in chat for people to never do it and take instead the same token than the previous round. Your hand can only decreate in value with 2 pairs on the board or with 1 pair and goes from double pair to 'single pair' (read the third to last section for more informations).

== Turn and River advices ==
That card start to be really situationnal.

If that new card open straight and flushes, nearly any hand could goes for the highest chip immediately. Even if you got a double pair you should be careful about fighting for this highest token. Take into consideration how many straight and flushes there is. If it's really few (1 or 2) then the player which hit those should insist a lot for the highest token. That mean with a slightly weaker hand (like double pair) you could try to insist for 6. On the contrary if there is lots of straight and flushes (4 or 9+), take a lower chip more easily.

If that new card is above all others cards a new pair most likely put yourself as the best or second best hand, so take a really high chip.

If that new card is around the same value of others, take an higher chip, and let others decide where they put yourself. They know which pair you got but you don't know which pair they got.

If that new card is below all others cards, put yourself as the higher chip between those which never improved.

Note that pocket pairs can rank weirdly.

Finallya at the River, the nuts (highest possible hand) should insist a lot for the highest token since there is nothing to lose. Knowing that, the second best hand can do the same. The third best hand can do the same but show weakness once after the fight while still showing they want the best token. Going lower than that is much trickier, especially for flushes board.

== Correcting mistakes ==
If you or someone else made a mistake that can easily be confusing.

It can be corrected naturally by someone hitting a pair, or even rarely with two pockets pairs by someone else hitting a pair.

If it's obvious what is happening you could try to correct it immediately (post flop), especially if there was some fight pre flop.

But I would advise you to let everything goes as planned, and in the final turn, still take your normal chip if the river can be confusing, and after everyone is happy with their chip, fight for the potential mistake which happened earlier. That's because when doing that, it look like to others that you hit a pair, which is extremely confusing.

== Differents ways of stealing a chip ==
Let's assume you could want the chip above you. You have a lot of ways to convey information when stealing a chip (from strongest to weakest):

- '''stealing the chip one above the one you want, put it back on the table, and steal the chip you want:''' this is often after you took too much time to react: this steal is even stronger that the default one, because you said to that other player that you are coming from the lower end of the chip above.

- '''stealing the chip:''' that's the default move

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table and waiting:''' that way is the most neutral one. You just give the decision to the other player/assume they got more informations than you. Preflop, that's normally after a fight, and you give them one last chance to be below you, and then you take the other one. Alternatively, it could mean that you want more time to think about the situation. If after a while, you take the lower or highest chip that's again some information (neutral+ or neutral-)

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table, and immediately taking the lowest one:''' that one is the weakest one. Usually by doing that you ask that other to double check what happenned earlier/confirm they really want that token. Alternatively, you could have seen that something isn't right, and want to show it to the other player, and let them decide to correct it or not. Sometimes you hit a pair, showed it post flop, the turn come with the lowest card of the table and another player take your chip because they seem to have hit a pair, so you do it while not showing extra strength.

Outside of that situation you can:

- steal the token of two others players and take back your own token if you think something isn't right between them

- take the tokens per example of everyone which hitted a pair, to put them back on the table and ask everyone to choose again

- if something is really not right (like you took the highest chip pre flop, and someone else who hit a pair is sure you hitted a pair, and don't let you be under them), you can pick some tokens completely out of place. Per example if you are fighting for 3/4/5, you can take the 1, put it back, and take the 3. That's an extremely strong sign you didn't hit that pair because you will make players with chips 1&2 being confused, so it's for emergency only.

==Full range and average hand pre-flop ==
This cheat sheet map recommended pre‑flop chips depending of the number of players. Use this at the table as a compact reference. Pairs are above all. All picks are '''rank‑only''' (no suits). Connector (7&8 of diamond) has no value.

''Note that even if the numbers are mathematiquely coherent, since pairs can often more easily be differenciated from A high, you could want to lower slightly the highest range. And I'm unsure the range should be uniform, maybe the range from the outside should be bigger.''

Finally, note that this sheet is only without context. It's great to know where you should put your hand initially. As soon as some player(s) take any chip(s), the value of that sheet fall pretty fast.

===How to read this sheet===
*The 1326 part assume that there will be the same amount of players going for every chip (1326 possible hands)(22100 with 3 cards hand)
*The 91 part assume that there will be an equal amount of combinaisons for every chip (91 combinaisons)(455 with 3 cards hand)
*5 = top, 1 = bottom.
*'''Timing cues:''' Quick pick = stronger; taking time or returning a chip = weaker. Use timing as secondary confirmation only.
*'''Use chip takes to correct misorders''' rather than arguing.
*ph=possible hands, c=combinaisons
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!3 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|16.67%
|median 1 hand
|7/5
|7/6
|10/4/2
|10/8/5
|-
|33.33%
|between 1/2 chips
|9/8
|10/3
|J/10/5
|Q/10/4
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 2 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|66.67%
|between 2/3 chips
|K/2
|K/6
|A/7/2
|3/3/7
|-
|83.33%
|median 3 hand
|A/5
|A/10
|2/2/7
|9/9/J
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!4 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|12,5%
|median 1 hand
| colspan="2" |7/2
|10/5/5
|9/8/7
|-
|25%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/7
|9/2
|J/4/3
|J/10/2
|-
|37.5%
|median 2 hand
|10/5
|10/7
|Q/6/5
|K/5/3
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 2/3 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|62,5%
|median 3 hand
|Q/8
|K/2
|K/Q/7
|A/K/10
|-
|75%
|between 3/4 chips
|K/9
|A/3
|A/J/4
|6/6/9
|-
|87,5%
|median 4 hand
|A/8
|2/2
|5/5/10
|J/J/5
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!5 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|10%
|median 1 hand
| colspan="2" |6/4
|8/7/6
|9/6/5
|-
|20%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/3
|8/4
|10/7/5
|J/5/4
|-
|30%
|median 2 hand
|9/5
|9/7
|J/8/6
|Q/8/2
|-
|40%
|between 2/3 chips
|10/7
|10/9
|Q/8/5
|K/8/2
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 3 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|60%
|between 3/4 chips
|Q/6
|Q/10
|K/J/8
|A/Q/8
|-
|70%
|median 4 hand
|K/5
|K/9
|A/9/2
|4/4/10
|-
|80%
|between 4/5 chips
|A/2
|A/7
|A/K/3
|8/8/6
|-
|90%
|median 5 hand
|A/10
|4/4
|7/7/9
|Q/Q/4
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!6 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|8,33%
|median 1 hand
| colspan="2" |6/2
|8/6/4
|9/4/2
|-
|16,67%
|between 1/2 chips
|7/5
|7/6
|10/4/2
|10/8/5
|-
|25%
|median 2 hand
|8/7
|9/2
|J/4/3
|J/10/2
|-
|33,33%
|between 2/3 chips
|9/8
|10/3
|J/10/5
|Q/10/4
|-
|41,67%
|median 3 hand
|10/8
|J/2
|Q/9/4
|K/9/4
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 3/4 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|58,33%
|median 4 hand
|Q/5
|Q/9
|K/J/2
|A/J/10
|-
|66,67%
|between 4/5 chips
|K/2
|K/6
|A/7/2
|3/3/7
|-
|75%
|median 5 hand
|K/9
|A/3
|A/J/4
|6/6/9
|-
|83,33%
|between 5/6 chips
|A/5
|A/10
|2/2/7
|9/9/J
|-
|91,67%
|median 6 hand
|A/J
|6/6
|8/8/Q
|Q/Q/K
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}

== Double pairs on the table (and single pair) ==
When there is two pairs on the table, and you hit nothing, only your highest card count.

That mean per example with a board JJ447, and you having A6, you can play that hand as if it was A2. That mean that if there was a fight earlier and you suspect someone else having better than you, you can play your hand as if it was A2 instead of A6. If that player got A8 or KQ, they could react differently.

In that same example if you got 62, you can take the lowest chip even if you highly suspect someone else has lower than you, because your hand will be JJ447 anyway.

But the most important thing is '''pocket pairs'''. If you got 22, and the second 4 arrived in the river, then '''while your hand was probably the best one pre flop''', still was good post flop and after the turn, '''it became the worst one after the river''' because you don't have a triple pair, you have the lowest possible hand: JJ447. That mean that an 82 which probably took 1 or 2 pre flop is now beating you. And so you should fight for the 1 and insist a lot since it's often not obvious for others players.

If you didn't understood that, you take your best 5 cards to create your hand. That mean that AJ99752 has the same value than AJ99743: they both use AJ997 to do their best hand.

If there is no pair on the board, and you have two pairs, then you should be high. When an unrelated pair come in the flop, now everyone which previously got one pair got the same combinaison than you (or 3 of a kind). That mean that now you should rank yourself as the best of your two pairs, which could mean going down even if others didn't improved.

== 4 cards of the same color on the table ==
'Obviously' on that kind of board, what you should be doing shift completely. Per example with 4 diamonds, we now ask you to rank yourself from the highest diamond card to the lowest diamond card. A hand with an Ace of spade and a 2 of diamond is now weaker than a 4 of spade and a 3 of diamond.

You first should put attention to which player potentially have 2 diamonds on their hand, it's more likely than their highest diamond card is high.

And then pay attention to potential flush house and straight, and good luck, it's like a situational pre flop situation.

If you hit nothing, don't hesitate to goes really low.
== Very strong connectors (advanced) ==
We arrived at the end of the guide, so let's have some fun and talk again of connectors which got normally no value.
KQ is normally worst than A2, but there is lots of value of having various hand in all chips (that's why putting pairs not at the highest amount preflop have a really positive aspect too).
So if you play KQ as if you got A7, you will end up by having a KQ between two others hands with aces. When on the flop arrive one card between A, K, Q, and the low value of ace, then the problem will be resolved, and one hand will be far stronger.
The great upside is that when you compare KQ with KJ or K10, KQ will be a lot overvalued, so there will be no hesitation on which player got the better hand.
Though, on the rares cases where you got none of those cards in the table, you will need to correct your position post river, which is a great downside too.
Finally, if both A and K come during the flop, again I would advise to correct post river, that's pretty much the same problem.
Now, if you start doing the same with KJ, you lose a lot of the value, because now comparing KQ and KJ will be really difficult, so I'm a lot against doing it with that hand.
QJ is in my opinion enough strong too to be played like K5. Those are two much closer hand, so in most games that wouldn't change anything preflop.
I though about doing the same with A2 but the opposing way, but the problem with that is that if a flop J62 or J92 come, others would likely put yourself into a hand K6 or K9 which is prett bad. You have much less control of middle and bottom pair compared to top pair. So I don't like doing that: play A2 as A2.
Finally JT start to be very messy since it's a middle hand, so I wouldn't do it neither.

Tips thegang

2026-05-26T15:39:04Z

Romain672: Simplification of the first few sections

''The following tips aren’t set-in-stone rules, but are meant to give you an idea of how communication works in this game. As a group, figure out for yourselves how you’d like to communicate best without discussing your hand.''

Do not be afraid to '''take chips away''' from other players. This is exactly how you communicate the quality of your own hand and help others to categorize you. The more the chips move, the more communication takes place.

Always evaluate the '''current state''', not how good it might still become.
'''1st Phase''': Having a pair from the start: take a high number (and higher than your first chip), otherwise evaluate the rank of your High Card.
'''From 2nd Phase''': If something was revealed in this phase that increases your rating, take a higher (or at least equally high) chip than in the previous round. This allows fellow players to draw conclusions about your specific card values.
Conversely: If nothing fitting your hand was revealed, take the same chip of the previous round, but adapt to others players choices.

== Introduction ==
This is a concise ''strategy guide'' for ''The Gang'' focused on **rank‑only** chip selection. It defines a simple, repeatable convention for mapping numbered chips to rank percentiles.

== Core conventions to adopt ==
* '''Establish a ranking convention.''' Map each chip number to a clear percentile bucket so everyone interprets chip choices the same way.
* '''Conservative default.''' On the pre‑flop stage, default to slightly conservative picks and only escalate when community cards materially change the actual hand strength.
* '''Controlled chip theft.''' Taking another player’s chip is the only legal private signal—use it to correct obvious misrankings, not to bluff.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.''' Pre‑flop picks are based on ranks only; suitedness and flush/straight potential are ignored for the initial ranking.
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking a chip quickly signals a stronger rank; taking time to pick a chip, or picking then returning a chip, signals a weaker rank.
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.''' Base your pre‑flop chip choice exclusively on the two ranks in your hand.

== Simple interpertation pre flop ==
When suits are ignored, here is what all chips initially have (you have the exact hand at the middle of the page):

*Treat any pocket pair as better than any other hand: 22>AK
* Suits has no value.
* Connectors (7&8 of diamonds) has no value.
* Timing as a soft signal post flop: Picking quickly = stronger; taking time = weaker
* No talk; use chips to correct.
* Don't put value on speculative hands.
* The median hand is around J8.

{| class="wikitable"
!Chips
!6 players
!5 players
!4 players
!3 players
|-
|6
|pairs / A high
|
|
|
|-
|5
|A low / K
|pairs / A
|
|
|-
|4
|Q / J high
|K / Q high
|pairs / A
|
|-
|3
|J low / 10
|Q low / J
|K / Q
|pairs / A / K
|-
|2
|9 / 8
|10 / 9 / 8
|J / 10 / 9
|Q / J / 10
|-
|1
|7
|7
|8 / 7
|9 / 8 / 7
|}
For 6 players put 1.5 categories in each chips starting highest, pairs counting for 1.

For 5 players do the same but pairs count for 0,5.

For 4 players put 2 categories in each chip starting highest.

For 3 players put 3 categories in each chip starting highest.

You end up with only chip 2 being slightly out of place.

== Poker mindset ==
If you are coming from Poker, you really should change your mind on some things:

Colors has no value until you hit your flush. If you start putting value to them, others with a 97 hand will have no way to compare 96s & 98o.

Connectors has no value too else that become fastly confusing. Start by taking experience and know what you are doing before maybe putting very minor value to them.

Many top players put their pairs in the highest token possible: 22>AK. Note that it's possible too to put pairs as their real value pre flop (88=middle chip), but if you do that you must put yourself at the right place post flop.
== Post flop advices ==
When hitting a double pair or better fight for the highest token. After someone steal it twice/thrice from you re-evaluate the board to look for potential straight/flushes (note that some straight are impossible from the first chip choice). Then evaluate for the bottom double pair or high one.

When having a pocket hand pair pre flop higher than all value on the table, fight for the highest token.

When hitting top pair (the pair from the highest value on the table) take the highest token. You could insist once depending of first chip choice.

When hitting middle pair, take the second highest token if that's an increase from the first round. If it's the same value or below, wait for others choices. Note that it's possible that you took the highest token twice. On that case, others doesn't know you hit a pair, and you should take in consideration for future rounds.

When hitting bottom pair, wait for others choices, and then put yourself the lowest between those which improved.

When hitting nothing while I like taking a token 1 or 2 below my first chip if nobody react, though many people ask in chat for people to never do it and take instead the same token than the previous round. Your hand can only decreate in value with 2 pairs on the board or with 1 pair and goes from double pair to 'single pair' (read the second to last section for more informations).

== Turn and River advices ==
That card start to be really situationnal.

If that new card open straight and flushes, nearly any hand could goes for the highest chip immediately. Even if you got a double pair you should be careful about fighting for this highest token. Take into consideration how many straight and flushes there is. If it's really few (1 or 2) then the player which hit those should insist a lot for the highest token. That mean with a slightly weaker hand (like double pair) you could try to insist for 6. On the contrary if there is lots of straight and flushes (4 or 9+), take a lower chip more easily.

If that new card is above all others cards a new pair most likely put yourself as the best or second best hand, so take a really high chip.

If that new card is around the same value of others, take an higher chip, and let others decide where they put yourself. They know which pair you got but you don't know which pair they got.

If that new card is below all others cards, put yourself as the higher chip between those which never improved.

Note that pocket pairs can rank weirdly.

Finallya at the River, the nuts (highest possible hand) should insist a lot for the highest token since there is nothing to lose. Knowing that, the second best hand can do the same. The third best hand can do the same but show weakness once after the fight while still showing they want the best token. Going lower than that is much trickier, especially for flushes board.

== Correcting mistakes ==
If you or someone else made a mistake that can easily be confusing.

It can be corrected naturally by someone hitting a pair, or even rarely with two pockets pairs by someone else hitting a pair.

If it's obvious what is happening you could try to correct it immediately (post flop), especially if there was some fight pre flop.

But I would advise you to let everything goes as planned, and in the final turn, still take your normal chip if the river can be confusing, and after everyone is happy with their chip, fight for the potential mistake which happened earlier. That's because when doing that, it look like to others that you hit a pair, which is extremely confusing.

== Differents ways of stealing a chip ==
Let's assume you could want the chip above you. You have a lot of ways to convey information when stealing a chip (from strongest to weakest):

- '''stealing the chip one above the one you want, put it back on the table, and steal the chip you want:''' this is often after you took too much time to react: this steal is even stronger that the default one, because you said to that other player that you are coming from the lower end of the chip above.

- '''stealing the chip:''' that's the default move

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table and waiting:''' that way is the most neutral one. You just give the decision to the other player/assume they got more informations than you. Preflop, that's normally after a fight, and you give them one last chance to be below you, and then you take the other one. Alternatively, it could mean that you want more time to think about the situation. If after a while, you take the lower or highest chip that's again some information (neutral+ or neutral-)

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table, and immediately taking the lowest one:''' that one is the weakest one. Usually by doing that you ask that other to double check what happenned earlier/confirm they really want that token. Alternatively, you could have seen that something isn't right, and want to show it to the other player, and let them decide to correct it or not. Sometimes you hit a pair, showed it post flop, the turn come with the lowest card of the table and another player take your chip because they seem to have hit a pair, so you do it while not showing extra strength.

Outside of that situation you can:

- steal the token of two others players and take back your own token if you think something isn't right between them

- take the tokens per example of everyone which hitted a pair, to put them back on the table and ask everyone to choose again

- if something is really not right (like you took the highest chip pre flop, and someone else who hit a pair is sure you hitted a pair, and don't let you be under them), you can pick some tokens completely out of place. Per example if you are fighting for 3/4/5, you can take the 1, put it back, and take the 3. That's an extremely strong sign you didn't hit that pair because you will make players with chips 1&2 being confused, so it's for emergency only.

==Full range and average hand pre-flop ==
This cheat sheet map recommended pre‑flop chips depending of the number of players. Use this at the table as a compact reference. Pairs are above all. All picks are '''rank‑only''' (no suits). Connector (7&8 of diamond) has no value.

''Note that even if the numbers are mathematiquely coherent, since pairs can often more easily be differenciated from A high, you could want to lower slightly the highest range. And I'm unsure the range should be uniform, maybe the range from the outside should be bigger.''

Finally, note that this sheet is only without context. It's great to know where you should put your hand initially. As soon as some player(s) take any chip(s), the value of that sheet fall pretty fast.

===How to read this sheet===
*The 1326 part assume that there will be the same amount of players going for every chip (1326 possible hands)(22100 with 3 cards hand)
*The 91 part assume that there will be an equal amount of combinaisons for every chip (91 combinaisons)(455 with 3 cards hand)
*5 = top, 1 = bottom.
*'''Timing cues:''' Quick pick = stronger; taking time or returning a chip = weaker. Use timing as secondary confirmation only.
*'''Use chip takes to correct misorders''' rather than arguing.
*ph=possible hands, c=combinaisons
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!3 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|16.67%
|median 1 hand
|7/5
|7/6
|10/4/2
|10/8/5
|-
|33.33%
|between 1/2 chips
|9/8
|10/3
|J/10/5
|Q/10/4
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 2 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|66.67%
|between 2/3 chips
|K/2
|K/6
|A/7/2
|3/3/7
|-
|83.33%
|median 3 hand
|A/5
|A/10
|2/2/7
|9/9/J
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!4 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|12,5%
|median 1 hand
| colspan="2" |7/2
|10/5/5
|9/8/7
|-
|25%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/7
|9/2
|J/4/3
|J/10/2
|-
|37.5%
|median 2 hand
|10/5
|10/7
|Q/6/5
|K/5/3
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 2/3 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|62,5%
|median 3 hand
|Q/8
|K/2
|K/Q/7
|A/K/10
|-
|75%
|between 3/4 chips
|K/9
|A/3
|A/J/4
|6/6/9
|-
|87,5%
|median 4 hand
|A/8
|2/2
|5/5/10
|J/J/5
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!5 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|10%
|median 1 hand
| colspan="2" |6/4
|8/7/6
|9/6/5
|-
|20%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/3
|8/4
|10/7/5
|J/5/4
|-
|30%
|median 2 hand
|9/5
|9/7
|J/8/6
|Q/8/2
|-
|40%
|between 2/3 chips
|10/7
|10/9
|Q/8/5
|K/8/2
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 3 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|60%
|between 3/4 chips
|Q/6
|Q/10
|K/J/8
|A/Q/8
|-
|70%
|median 4 hand
|K/5
|K/9
|A/9/2
|4/4/10
|-
|80%
|between 4/5 chips
|A/2
|A/7
|A/K/3
|8/8/6
|-
|90%
|median 5 hand
|A/10
|4/4
|7/7/9
|Q/Q/4
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!6 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|8,33%
|median 1 hand
| colspan="2" |6/2
|8/6/4
|9/4/2
|-
|16,67%
|between 1/2 chips
|7/5
|7/6
|10/4/2
|10/8/5
|-
|25%
|median 2 hand
|8/7
|9/2
|J/4/3
|J/10/2
|-
|33,33%
|between 2/3 chips
|9/8
|10/3
|J/10/5
|Q/10/4
|-
|41,67%
|median 3 hand
|10/8
|J/2
|Q/9/4
|K/9/4
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 3/4 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|58,33%
|median 4 hand
|Q/5
|Q/9
|K/J/2
|A/J/10
|-
|66,67%
|between 4/5 chips
|K/2
|K/6
|A/7/2
|3/3/7
|-
|75%
|median 5 hand
|K/9
|A/3
|A/J/4
|6/6/9
|-
|83,33%
|between 5/6 chips
|A/5
|A/10
|2/2/7
|9/9/J
|-
|91,67%
|median 6 hand
|A/J
|6/6
|8/8/Q
|Q/Q/K
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}

== Double pairs on the table (and single pair) ==
When there is two pairs on the table, and you hit nothing, only your highest card count.

That mean per example with a board JJ447, and you having A6, you can play that hand as if it was A2. That mean that if there was a fight earlier and you suspect someone else having better than you, you can play your hand as if it was A2 instead of A6. If that player got A8 or KQ, they could react differently.

In that same example if you got 62, you can take the lowest chip even if you highly suspect someone else has lower than you, because your hand will be JJ447 anyway.

But the most important thing is '''pocket pairs'''. If you got 22, and the second 4 arrived in the river, then '''while your hand was probably the best one pre flop''', still was good post flop and after the turn, '''it became the worst one after the river''' because you don't have a triple pair, you have the lowest possible hand: JJ447. That mean that an 82 which probably took 1 or 2 pre flop is now beating you. And so you should fight for the 1 and insist a lot since it's often not obvious for others players.

If you didn't understood that, you take your best 5 cards to create your hand. That mean that AJ99752 has the same value than AJ99743: they both use AJ997 to do their best hand.

If there is no pair on the board, and you have two pairs, then you should be high. When an unrelated pair come in the flop, now everyone which previously got one pair got the same combinaison than you (or 3 of a kind). That mean that now you should rank yourself as the best of your two pairs, which could mean going down even if others didn't improved.

== 4 cards of the same color on the table ==
'Obviously' on that kind of board, what you should be doing shift completely. Per example with 4 diamonds, we now ask you to rank yourself from the highest diamond card to the lowest diamond card. A hand with an Ace of spade and a 2 of diamond is now weaker than a 4 of spade and a 3 of diamond.

You first should put attention to which player potentially have 2 diamonds on their hand, it's more likely than their highest diamond card is high.

And then pay attention to potential flush house and straight, and good luck, it's like a situational pre flop situation.

If you hit nothing, don't hesitate to goes really low.

Tips thegang

2026-05-26T15:31:50Z

Romain672: /* Differents ways of stealing a chip */ Minor changes

''The following tips aren’t set-in-stone rules, but are meant to give you an idea of how communication works in this game. As a group, figure out for yourselves how you’d like to communicate best without discussing your hand.''

Do not be afraid to '''take chips away''' from other players. This is exactly how you communicate the quality of your own hand and help others to categorize you. The more the chips move, the more communication takes place.

Always evaluate the '''current state''', not how good it might still become.
'''1st Phase''': Having a pair from the start: take a high number (and higher than your first chip), otherwise evaluate the rank of your High Card.
'''From 2nd Phase''': If something was revealed in this phase that increases your rating, take a higher (or at least equally high) chip than in the previous round. This allows fellow players to draw conclusions about your specific card values.
Conversely: If nothing fitting your hand was revealed, take a chip that is 1 lower. If then no one wants to indicate a hit with a higher chip, you can return to the evaluation of the previous round.

== Introduction ==
This is a concise ''pre‑flop strategy guide'' for ''The Gang'' focused on **rank‑only** pre‑flop chip selection. It defines a simple, repeatable convention for mapping numbered chips to rank percentiles, explains why the convention helps, clarifies how '''Ace‑high''' hands should be placed so both charts work smoothly, and provides two separate, actionable mapping options you can adopt at the table.

== Core conventions to adopt ==
* '''Establish a ranking convention.''' Map each chip number to a clear percentile bucket so everyone interprets chip choices the same way.
* '''Conservative default.''' On the pre‑flop stage, default to slightly conservative picks and only escalate when community cards materially change the actual hand strength.
* '''Controlled chip theft.''' Taking another player’s chip is the only legal private signal—use it to correct obvious misrankings, not to bluff.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.''' Pre‑flop picks are based on ranks only; suitedness and flush/straight potential are ignored for the initial ranking.
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking a chip quickly signals a stronger rank; taking time to pick a chip, or picking then returning a chip, signals a weaker rank.
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.''' Base your pre‑flop chip choice exclusively on the two ranks in your hand.

== Why a percentile convention helps ==
* '''Reduces ambiguity.''' Percentiles let players interpret rankings consistently.
* '''Makes steals informative.''' A chip take becomes a clear corrective statement about percentile.
* '''Improves planning.'''
** ''' Schedule Specialists and Challenges ''' deliberately because you know which percentile buckets are likely to win or lose across rounds.
** ''' Budget risk ''' by tracking how many top‑bucket rank outcomes remain and deciding when to spend a Specialist or accept a Challenge.
** ''' Assign informal roles ''' based on predictable chip distributions.
** ''' Make corrective plays efficient: ''' a chip take can reallocate risk and reduce disputes.

== Pre‑flop decision rules (rank‑only) ==
* '''Pairs are one group.''' Treat any pocket pair as a single pre‑flop signal category for the initial chip pick.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.'''
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.'''
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking quickly = stronger; taking time = weaker.
* '''No talk; use takes to correct.'''
* '''Conservative default for speculative hands.'''
* The median hand is exactly J7.

== Simple interpertation pre flop ==
When suits are ignored, here is what all chips initially have (you have the exact hand at the middle of the page):
{| class="wikitable"
!Chips
!6 players
!5 players
!4 players
!3 players
|-
|6
|pairs / A high
|
|
|
|-
|5
|A low / K
|pairs / A
|
|
|-
|4
|Q / J high
|K / Q high
|pairs / A
|
|-
|3
|J low / 10
|Q low / J
|K / Q
|pairs / A / K
|-
|2
|9 / 8
|10 / 9 / 8
|J / 10 / 9
|Q / J / 10
|-
|1
|7
|7
|8 / 7
|9 / 8 / 7
|}
For 6 players put 1.5 categories in each chips starting highest, pairs counting for 1.

For 5 players do the same but pairs count for 0,5.

For 4 players put 2 categories in each chip starting highest.

For 3 players put 3 categories in each chip starting highest.

You end up with only chip 2 being slightly out of place.

== Poker mindset ==
If you are coming from Poker, you really should change your mind on some things:

Colors has no value until you hit your flush. If you start putting value to them, others with a 97 hand will have no way to compare 96s & 98o.

Connectors has no value too else that become fastly confusing. Start by taking experience and know what you are doing before maybe putting very minor value to them.

Many top players put their pairs in the highest token possible: 22>AK. Note that it's possible too to put pairs as their real value pre flop (88=middle chip), but if you do that you must put yourself at the right place post flop.
== Post flop advices ==
When hitting a double pair or better fight for the highest token. After someone steal it twice/thrice from you re-evaluate the board to look for potential straight/flushes (note that some straight are impossible from the first chip choice). Then evaluate for the bottom double pair or high one.

When having a pocket hand pair pre flop higher than all value on the table, fight for the highest token.

When hitting top pair (the pair from the highest value on the table) take the highest token. You could insist once depending of first chip choice.

When hitting middle pair, take the second highest token if that's an increase from the first round. If it's the same value or below, wait for others choices. Note that it's possible that you took the highest token twice. On that case, others doesn't know you hit a pair, and you should take in consideration for future rounds.

When hitting bottom pair, wait for others choices, and then put yourself the lowest between those which improved.

When hitting nothing while I like taking a token 1 or 2 below my first chip if nobody react, though many people ask in chat for people to never do it and take instead the same token than the previous round. Your hand can only decreate in value with 2 pairs on the board or with 1 pair and goes from double pair to 'single pair' (read the second to last section for more informations).

== Turn and River advices ==
That card start to be really situationnal.

If that new card open straight and flushes, nearly any hand could goes for the highest chip immediately. Even if you got a double pair you should be careful about fighting for this highest token. Take into consideration how many straight and flushes there is. If it's really few (1 or 2) then the player which hit those should insist a lot for the highest token. That mean with a slightly weaker hand (like double pair) you could try to insist for 6. On the contrary if there is lots of straight and flushes (4 or 9+), take a lower chip more easily.

If that new card is above all others cards a new pair most likely put yourself as the best or second best hand, so take a really high chip.

If that new card is around the same value of others, take an higher chip, and let others decide where they put yourself. They know which pair you got but you don't know which pair they got.

If that new card is below all others cards, put yourself as the higher chip between those which never improved.

Note that pocket pairs can rank weirdly.

Finallya at the River, the nuts (highest possible hand) should insist a lot for the highest token since there is nothing to lose. Knowing that, the second best hand can do the same. The third best hand can do the same but show weakness once after the fight while still showing they want the best token. Going lower than that is much trickier, especially for flushes board.

== Correcting mistakes ==
If you or someone else made a mistake that can easily be confusing.

It can be corrected naturally by someone hitting a pair, or even rarely with two pockets pairs by someone else hitting a pair.

If it's obvious what is happening you could try to correct it immediately (post flop), especially if there was some fight pre flop.

But I would advise you to let everything goes as planned, and in the final turn, still take your normal chip if the river can be confusing, and after everyone is happy with their chip, fight for the potential mistake which happened earlier. That's because when doing that, it look like to others that you hit a pair, which is extremely confusing.

== Differents ways of stealing a chip ==
Let's assume you could want the chip above you. You have a lot of ways to convey information when stealing a chip (from strongest to weakest):

- '''stealing the chip one above the one you want, put it back on the table, and steal the chip you want:''' this is often after you took too much time to react: this steal is even stronger that the default one, because you said to that other player that you are coming from the lower end of the chip above.

- '''stealing the chip:''' that's the default move

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table and waiting:''' that way is the most neutral one. You just give the decision to the other player/assume they got more informations than you. Preflop, that's normally after a fight, and you give them one last chance to be below you, and then you take the other one. Alternatively, it could mean that you want more time to think about the situation. If after a while, you take the lower or highest chip that's again some information (neutral+ or neutral-)

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table, and immediately taking the lowest one:''' that one is the weakest one. Usually by doing that you ask that other to double check what happenned earlier/confirm they really want that token. Alternatively, you could have seen that something isn't right, and want to show it to the other player, and let them decide to correct it or not. Sometimes you hit a pair, showed it post flop, the turn come with the lowest card of the table and another player take your chip because they seem to have hit a pair, so you do it while not showing extra strength.

Outside of that situation you can:

- steal the token of two others players and take back your own token if you think something isn't right between them

- take the tokens per example of everyone which hitted a pair, to put them back on the table and ask everyone to choose again

- if something is really not right (like you took the highest chip pre flop, and someone else who hit a pair is sure you hitted a pair, and don't let you be under them), you can pick some tokens completely out of place. Per example if you are fighting for 3/4/5, you can take the 1, put it back, and take the 3. That's an extremely strong sign you didn't hit that pair because you will make players with chips 1&2 being confused, so it's for emergency only.

==Full range and average hand pre-flop ==
This cheat sheet map recommended pre‑flop chips depending of the number of players. Use this at the table as a compact reference. Pairs are above all. All picks are '''rank‑only''' (no suits). Connector (7&8 of diamond) has no value.

''Note that even if the numbers are mathematiquely coherent, since pairs can often more easily be differenciated from A high, you could want to lower slightly the highest range. And I'm unsure the range should be uniform, maybe the range from the outside should be bigger.''

Finally, note that this sheet is only without context. It's great to know where you should put your hand initially. As soon as some player(s) take any chip(s), the value of that sheet fall pretty fast.

===How to read this sheet===
*The 1326 part assume that there will be the same amount of players going for every chip (1326 possible hands)(22100 with 3 cards hand)
*The 91 part assume that there will be an equal amount of combinaisons for every chip (91 combinaisons)(455 with 3 cards hand)
*5 = top, 1 = bottom.
*'''Timing cues:''' Quick pick = stronger; taking time or returning a chip = weaker. Use timing as secondary confirmation only.
*'''Use chip takes to correct misorders''' rather than arguing.
*ph=possible hands, c=combinaisons
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!3 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|16.67%
|median 1 hand
|7/5
|7/6
|10/4/2
|10/8/5
|-
|33.33%
|between 1/2 chips
|9/8
|10/3
|J/10/5
|Q/10/4
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 2 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|66.67%
|between 2/3 chips
|K/2
|K/6
|A/7/2
|3/3/7
|-
|83.33%
|median 3 hand
|A/5
|A/10
|2/2/7
|9/9/J
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!4 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|12,5%
|median 1 hand
| colspan="2" |7/2
|10/5/5
|9/8/7
|-
|25%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/7
|9/2
|J/4/3
|J/10/2
|-
|37.5%
|median 2 hand
|10/5
|10/7
|Q/6/5
|K/5/3
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 2/3 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|62,5%
|median 3 hand
|Q/8
|K/2
|K/Q/7
|A/K/10
|-
|75%
|between 3/4 chips
|K/9
|A/3
|A/J/4
|6/6/9
|-
|87,5%
|median 4 hand
|A/8
|2/2
|5/5/10
|J/J/5
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!5 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|10%
|median 1 hand
| colspan="2" |6/4
|8/7/6
|9/6/5
|-
|20%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/3
|8/4
|10/7/5
|J/5/4
|-
|30%
|median 2 hand
|9/5
|9/7
|J/8/6
|Q/8/2
|-
|40%
|between 2/3 chips
|10/7
|10/9
|Q/8/5
|K/8/2
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 3 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|60%
|between 3/4 chips
|Q/6
|Q/10
|K/J/8
|A/Q/8
|-
|70%
|median 4 hand
|K/5
|K/9
|A/9/2
|4/4/10
|-
|80%
|between 4/5 chips
|A/2
|A/7
|A/K/3
|8/8/6
|-
|90%
|median 5 hand
|A/10
|4/4
|7/7/9
|Q/Q/4
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!6 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|8,33%
|median 1 hand
| colspan="2" |6/2
|8/6/4
|9/4/2
|-
|16,67%
|between 1/2 chips
|7/5
|7/6
|10/4/2
|10/8/5
|-
|25%
|median 2 hand
|8/7
|9/2
|J/4/3
|J/10/2
|-
|33,33%
|between 2/3 chips
|9/8
|10/3
|J/10/5
|Q/10/4
|-
|41,67%
|median 3 hand
|10/8
|J/2
|Q/9/4
|K/9/4
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 3/4 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|58,33%
|median 4 hand
|Q/5
|Q/9
|K/J/2
|A/J/10
|-
|66,67%
|between 4/5 chips
|K/2
|K/6
|A/7/2
|3/3/7
|-
|75%
|median 5 hand
|K/9
|A/3
|A/J/4
|6/6/9
|-
|83,33%
|between 5/6 chips
|A/5
|A/10
|2/2/7
|9/9/J
|-
|91,67%
|median 6 hand
|A/J
|6/6
|8/8/Q
|Q/Q/K
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}

== Double pairs on the table (and single pair) ==
When there is two pairs on the table, and you hit nothing, only your highest card count.

That mean per example with a board JJ447, and you having A6, you can play that hand as if it was A2. That mean that if there was a fight earlier and you suspect someone else having better than you, you can play your hand as if it was A2 instead of A6. If that player got A8 or KQ, they could react differently.

In that same example if you got 62, you can take the lowest chip even if you highly suspect someone else has lower than you, because your hand will be JJ447 anyway.

But the most important thing is '''pocket pairs'''. If you got 22, and the second 4 arrived in the river, then '''while your hand was probably the best one pre flop''', still was good post flop and after the turn, '''it became the worst one after the river''' because you don't have a triple pair, you have the lowest possible hand: JJ447. That mean that an 82 which probably took 1 or 2 pre flop is now beating you. And so you should fight for the 1 and insist a lot since it's often not obvious for others players.

If you didn't understood that, you take your best 5 cards to create your hand. That mean that AJ99752 has the same value than AJ99743: they both use AJ997 to do their best hand.

If there is no pair on the board, and you have two pairs, then you should be high. When an unrelated pair come in the flop, now everyone which previously got one pair got the same combinaison than you (or 3 of a kind). That mean that now you should rank yourself as the best of your two pairs, which could mean going down even if others didn't improved.

== 4 cards of the same color on the table ==
'Obviously' on that kind of board, what you should be doing shift completely. Per example with 4 diamonds, we now ask you to rank yourself from the highest diamond card to the lowest diamond card. A hand with an Ace of spade and a 2 of diamond is now weaker than a 4 of spade and a 3 of diamond.

You first should put attention to which player potentially have 2 diamonds on their hand, it's more likely than their highest diamond card is high.

And then pay attention to potential flush house and straight, and good luck, it's like a situational pre flop situation.

If you hit nothing, don't hesitate to goes really low.

Tips thegang

2026-05-25T12:46:20Z

Romain672: +1 section: 'Differents ways of stealing a chip'

''The following tips aren’t set-in-stone rules, but are meant to give you an idea of how communication works in this game. As a group, figure out for yourselves how you’d like to communicate best without discussing your hand.''

Do not be afraid to '''take chips away''' from other players. This is exactly how you communicate the quality of your own hand and help others to categorize you. The more the chips move, the more communication takes place.

Always evaluate the '''current state''', not how good it might still become.
'''1st Phase''': Having a pair from the start: take a high number (and higher than your first chip), otherwise evaluate the rank of your High Card.
'''From 2nd Phase''': If something was revealed in this phase that increases your rating, take a higher (or at least equally high) chip than in the previous round. This allows fellow players to draw conclusions about your specific card values.
Conversely: If nothing fitting your hand was revealed, take a chip that is 1 lower. If then no one wants to indicate a hit with a higher chip, you can return to the evaluation of the previous round.

== Introduction ==
This is a concise ''pre‑flop strategy guide'' for ''The Gang'' focused on **rank‑only** pre‑flop chip selection. It defines a simple, repeatable convention for mapping numbered chips to rank percentiles, explains why the convention helps, clarifies how '''Ace‑high''' hands should be placed so both charts work smoothly, and provides two separate, actionable mapping options you can adopt at the table.

== Core conventions to adopt ==
* '''Establish a ranking convention.''' Map each chip number to a clear percentile bucket so everyone interprets chip choices the same way.
* '''Conservative default.''' On the pre‑flop stage, default to slightly conservative picks and only escalate when community cards materially change the actual hand strength.
* '''Controlled chip theft.''' Taking another player’s chip is the only legal private signal—use it to correct obvious misrankings, not to bluff.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.''' Pre‑flop picks are based on ranks only; suitedness and flush/straight potential are ignored for the initial ranking.
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking a chip quickly signals a stronger rank; taking time to pick a chip, or picking then returning a chip, signals a weaker rank.
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.''' Base your pre‑flop chip choice exclusively on the two ranks in your hand.

== Why a percentile convention helps ==
* '''Reduces ambiguity.''' Percentiles let players interpret rankings consistently.
* '''Makes steals informative.''' A chip take becomes a clear corrective statement about percentile.
* '''Improves planning.'''
** ''' Schedule Specialists and Challenges ''' deliberately because you know which percentile buckets are likely to win or lose across rounds.
** ''' Budget risk ''' by tracking how many top‑bucket rank outcomes remain and deciding when to spend a Specialist or accept a Challenge.
** ''' Assign informal roles ''' based on predictable chip distributions.
** ''' Make corrective plays efficient: ''' a chip take can reallocate risk and reduce disputes.

== Pre‑flop decision rules (rank‑only) ==
* '''Pairs are one group.''' Treat any pocket pair as a single pre‑flop signal category for the initial chip pick.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.'''
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.'''
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking quickly = stronger; taking time = weaker.
* '''No talk; use takes to correct.'''
* '''Conservative default for speculative hands.'''
* The median hand is exactly J7.

== Simple interpertation pre flop ==
When suits are ignored, here is what all chips initially have (you have the exact hand at the middle of the page):
{| class="wikitable"
!Chips
!6 players
!5 players
!4 players
!3 players
|-
|6
|pairs / A high
|
|
|
|-
|5
|A low / K
|pairs / A
|
|
|-
|4
|Q / J high
|K / Q high
|pairs / A
|
|-
|3
|J low / 10
|Q low / J
|K / Q
|pairs / A / K
|-
|2
|9 / 8
|10 / 9 / 8
|J / 10 / 9
|Q / J / 10
|-
|1
|7
|7
|8 / 7
|9 / 8 / 7
|}
For 6 players put 1.5 categories in each chips starting highest, pairs counting for 1.

For 5 players do the same but pairs count for 0,5.

For 4 players put 2 categories in each chip starting highest.

For 3 players put 3 categories in each chip starting highest.

You end up with only chip 2 being slightly out of place.

== Poker mindset ==
If you are coming from Poker, you really should change your mind on some things:

Colors has no value until you hit your flush. If you start putting value to them, others with a 97 hand will have no way to compare 96s & 98o.

Connectors has no value too else that become fastly confusing. Start by taking experience and know what you are doing before maybe putting very minor value to them.

Many top players put their pairs in the highest token possible: 22>AK. Note that it's possible too to put pairs as their real value pre flop (88=middle chip), but if you do that you must put yourself at the right place post flop.
== Post flop advices ==
When hitting a double pair or better fight for the highest token. After someone steal it twice/thrice from you re-evaluate the board to look for potential straight/flushes (note that some straight are impossible from the first chip choice). Then evaluate for the bottom double pair or high one.

When having a pocket hand pair pre flop higher than all value on the table, fight for the highest token.

When hitting top pair (the pair from the highest value on the table) take the highest token. You could insist once depending of first chip choice.

When hitting middle pair, take the second highest token if that's an increase from the first round. If it's the same value or below, wait for others choices. Note that it's possible that you took the highest token twice. On that case, others doesn't know you hit a pair, and you should take in consideration for future rounds.

When hitting bottom pair, wait for others choices, and then put yourself the lowest between those which improved.

When hitting nothing take the 1/2 token or one or two below your first chip.

== Turn and River advices ==
That card start to be really situationnal.

If that new card open straight and flushes, nearly any hand could goes for the highest chip immediately. Even if you got a double pair you should be careful about fighting for this highest token. Take into consideration how many straight and flushes there is. If it's really few (1 or 2) then the player which hit those should insist a lot for the highest token. That mean with a slightly weaker hand (like double pair) you could try to insist for 6. On the contrary if there is lots of straight and flushes (4 or 9+), take a lower chip more easily.

If that new card is above all others cards a new pair most likely put yourself as the best or second best hand, so take a really high chip.

If that new card is around the same value of others, take an higher chip, and let others decide where they put yourself. They know which pair you got but you don't know which pair they got.

If that new card is below all others cards, put yourself as the higher chip between those which never improved.

Note that pocket pairs can rank weirdly.

Finallya at the River, the nuts (highest possible hand) should insist a lot for the highest token since there is nothing to lose. Knowing that, the second best hand can do the same. The third best hand can do the same but show weakness once after the fight while still showing they want the best token. Going lower than that is much trickier, especially for flushes board.

== Correcting mistakes ==
If you or someone else made a mistake that can easily be confusing.

It can be corrected naturally by someone hitting a pair, or even rarely with two pockets pairs by someone else hitting a pair.

If it's obvious what is happening you could try to correct it immediately (post flop), especially if there was some fight pre flop.

But I would advise you to let everything goes as planned, and in the final turn, still take your normal chip if the river can be confusing, and after everyone is happy with their chip, fight for the potential mistake which happened earlier. That's because when doing that, it look like to others that you hit a pair, which is extremely confusing.

== Differents ways of stealing a chip ==
Let's assume you could want the chip above you. You have a lot of ways to convey information when stealing a chip (from strongest to weakest):

- '''stealing the chip one above the one you want, put it back on the table, and steal the chip you want:''' this is often after you took too much time to react: this steal is even stronger that the default one, because you said to that other player that you are coming from the lower end of the chip above.

- '''stealing the chip:''' that's the default move

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table and waiting:''' that way is most neutral one. You just give the decision to the other player/assume they got more informations than you. Preflop, that's normally after a fight, and you give them one last chance to be below you, and then you take the other one. Alternatively, it could mean that you want more time to think about the situation. If after a while, you take the lower or highest chip that's again some information (neutral+ or neutral-)

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table, and immediately taking the lowest one:''' that was is the weakest one. Usually by doing that you ask that other to double check what happenned earlier/confirm they really want that token. Alternatively, you could have seen that something isn't right, and want to show it to the other player, and let them decide to correct it or not. Sometimes you hit a pair, showed it post flop, the turn come with the lowest card of the table and another player take your chip because they seem to have hit a pair, so you do it while not showing extra strength.

Outside of that situation you can:

- steal the token of two others players and take back your own token if you think something isn't right between them

- take the tokens per example of everyone which hitted a pair, to put them back on the table and ask everyone to choose again

- if something is really not right (like you took the highest chip pre flop, and someone else who hit a pair is sure you hitted a pair, and don't let you be under them), you can pick some tokens completely out of place. Per example if you are fighting for 3/4/5, you can take the 1, put it back, and take the 3. That's an extremely strong sign you didn't hit that pair because you will make players with chips 1&2 being confused, so it's for emergency only.

==Full range and average hand pre-flop ==
This cheat sheet map recommended pre‑flop chips depending of the number of players. Use this at the table as a compact reference. Pairs are above all. All picks are '''rank‑only''' (no suits). Connector (7&8 of diamond) has no value.

''Note that even if the numbers are mathematiquely coherent, since pairs can often more easily be differenciated from A high, you could want to lower slightly the highest range. And I'm unsure the range should be uniform, maybe the range from the outside should be bigger.''

Finally, note that this sheet is only without context. It's great to know where you should put your hand initially. As soon as some player(s) take any chip(s), the value of that sheet fall pretty fast.

===How to read this sheet===
*The 1326 part assume that there will be the same amount of players going for every chip (1326 possible hands)(22100 with 3 cards hand)
*The 91 part assume that there will be an equal amount of combinaisons for every chip (91 combinaisons)(455 with 3 cards hand)
*5 = top, 1 = bottom.
*'''Timing cues:''' Quick pick = stronger; taking time or returning a chip = weaker. Use timing as secondary confirmation only.
*'''Use chip takes to correct misorders''' rather than arguing.
*ph=possible hands, c=combinaisons
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!3 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|16.67%
|median 1 hand
|7/5
|7/6
|10/4/2
|10/8/5
|-
|33.33%
|between 1/2 chips
|9/8
|10/3
|J/10/5
|Q/10/4
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 2 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|66.67%
|between 2/3 chips
|K/2
|K/6
|A/7/2
|3/3/7
|-
|83.33%
|median 3 hand
|A/5
|A/10
|2/2/7
|9/9/J
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!4 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|12,5%
|median 1 hand
| colspan="2" |7/2
|10/5/5
|9/8/7
|-
|25%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/7
|9/2
|J/4/3
|J/10/2
|-
|37.5%
|median 2 hand
|10/5
|10/7
|Q/6/5
|K/5/3
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 2/3 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|62,5%
|median 3 hand
|Q/8
|K/2
|K/Q/7
|A/K/10
|-
|75%
|between 3/4 chips
|K/9
|A/3
|A/J/4
|6/6/9
|-
|87,5%
|median 4 hand
|A/8
|2/2
|5/5/10
|J/J/5
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!5 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|10%
|median 1 hand
| colspan="2" |6/4
|8/7/6
|9/6/5
|-
|20%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/3
|8/4
|10/7/5
|J/5/4
|-
|30%
|median 2 hand
|9/5
|9/7
|J/8/6
|Q/8/2
|-
|40%
|between 2/3 chips
|10/7
|10/9
|Q/8/5
|K/8/2
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 3 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|60%
|between 3/4 chips
|Q/6
|Q/10
|K/J/8
|A/Q/8
|-
|70%
|median 4 hand
|K/5
|K/9
|A/9/2
|4/4/10
|-
|80%
|between 4/5 chips
|A/2
|A/7
|A/K/3
|8/8/6
|-
|90%
|median 5 hand
|A/10
|4/4
|7/7/9
|Q/Q/4
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!6 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|8,33%
|median 1 hand
| colspan="2" |6/2
|8/6/4
|9/4/2
|-
|16,67%
|between 1/2 chips
|7/5
|7/6
|10/4/2
|10/8/5
|-
|25%
|median 2 hand
|8/7
|9/2
|J/4/3
|J/10/2
|-
|33,33%
|between 2/3 chips
|9/8
|10/3
|J/10/5
|Q/10/4
|-
|41,67%
|median 3 hand
|10/8
|J/2
|Q/9/4
|K/9/4
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 3/4 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|58,33%
|median 4 hand
|Q/5
|Q/9
|K/J/2
|A/J/10
|-
|66,67%
|between 4/5 chips
|K/2
|K/6
|A/7/2
|3/3/7
|-
|75%
|median 5 hand
|K/9
|A/3
|A/J/4
|6/6/9
|-
|83,33%
|between 5/6 chips
|A/5
|A/10
|2/2/7
|9/9/J
|-
|91,67%
|median 6 hand
|A/J
|6/6
|8/8/Q
|Q/Q/K
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}

== Double pairs on the table (and single pair) ==
When there is two pairs on the table, and you hit nothing, only your highest card count.

That mean per example with a board JJ447, and you having A6, you can play that hand as if it was A2. That mean that if there was a fight earlier and you suspect someone else having better than you, you can play your hand as if it was A2 instead of A6. If that player got A8 or KQ, they could react differently.

In that same example if you got 62, you can take the lowest chip even if you highly suspect someone else has lower than you, because your hand will be JJ447 anyway.

But the most important thing is '''pocket pairs'''. If you got 22, and the second 4 arrived in the river, then '''while your hand was probably the best one pre flop''', still was good post flop and after the turn, '''it became the worst one after the river''' because you don't have a triple pair, you have the lowest possible hand: JJ447. That mean that an 82 which probably took 1 or 2 pre flop is now beating you. And so you should fight for the 1 and insist a lot since it's often not obvious for others players.

If you didn't understood that, you take your best 5 cards to create your hand. That mean that AJ99752 has the same value than AJ99743: they both use AJ997 to do their best hand.

If there is no pair on the board, and you have two pairs, then you should be high. When an unrelated pair come in the flop, now everyone which previously got one pair got the same combinaison than you (or 3 of a kind). That mean that now you should rank yourself as the best of your two pairs, which could mean going down even if others didn't improved.

== 4 cards of the same color on the table ==
'Obviously' on that kind of board, what you should be doing shift completely. Per example with 4 diamonds, we now ask you to rank yourself from the highest diamond card to the lowest diamond card. A hand with an Ace of spade and a 2 of diamond is now weaker than a 4 of spade and a 3 of diamond.

You first should put attention to which player potentially have 2 diamonds on their hand, it's more likely than their highest diamond card is high.

And then pay attention to potential flush house and straight, and good luck, it's like a situational pre flop situation.

If you hit nothing, don't hesitate to goes really low.

Tips thegang

2026-05-24T20:36:09Z

Romain672: Added poker mindset and the two ways to rank pairs

''The following tips aren’t set-in-stone rules, but are meant to give you an idea of how communication works in this game. As a group, figure out for yourselves how you’d like to communicate best without discussing your hand.''

Do not be afraid to '''take chips away''' from other players. This is exactly how you communicate the quality of your own hand and help others to categorize you. The more the chips move, the more communication takes place.

Always evaluate the '''current state''', not how good it might still become.
'''1st Phase''': Having a pair from the start: take a high number (and higher than your first chip), otherwise evaluate the rank of your High Card.
'''From 2nd Phase''': If something was revealed in this phase that increases your rating, take a higher (or at least equally high) chip than in the previous round. This allows fellow players to draw conclusions about your specific card values.
Conversely: If nothing fitting your hand was revealed, take a chip that is 1 lower. If then no one wants to indicate a hit with a higher chip, you can return to the evaluation of the previous round.

== Introduction ==
This is a concise ''pre‑flop strategy guide'' for ''The Gang'' focused on **rank‑only** pre‑flop chip selection. It defines a simple, repeatable convention for mapping numbered chips to rank percentiles, explains why the convention helps, clarifies how '''Ace‑high''' hands should be placed so both charts work smoothly, and provides two separate, actionable mapping options you can adopt at the table.

== Core conventions to adopt ==
* '''Establish a ranking convention.''' Map each chip number to a clear percentile bucket so everyone interprets chip choices the same way.
* '''Conservative default.''' On the pre‑flop stage, default to slightly conservative picks and only escalate when community cards materially change the actual hand strength.
* '''Controlled chip theft.''' Taking another player’s chip is the only legal private signal—use it to correct obvious misrankings, not to bluff.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.''' Pre‑flop picks are based on ranks only; suitedness and flush/straight potential are ignored for the initial ranking.
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking a chip quickly signals a stronger rank; taking time to pick a chip, or picking then returning a chip, signals a weaker rank.
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.''' Base your pre‑flop chip choice exclusively on the two ranks in your hand.

== Why a percentile convention helps ==
* '''Reduces ambiguity.''' Percentiles let players interpret rankings consistently.
* '''Makes steals informative.''' A chip take becomes a clear corrective statement about percentile.
* '''Improves planning.'''
** ''' Schedule Specialists and Challenges ''' deliberately because you know which percentile buckets are likely to win or lose across rounds.
** ''' Budget risk ''' by tracking how many top‑bucket rank outcomes remain and deciding when to spend a Specialist or accept a Challenge.
** ''' Assign informal roles ''' based on predictable chip distributions.
** ''' Make corrective plays efficient: ''' a chip take can reallocate risk and reduce disputes.

== Pre‑flop decision rules (rank‑only) ==
* '''Pairs are one group.''' Treat any pocket pair as a single pre‑flop signal category for the initial chip pick.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.'''
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.'''
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking quickly = stronger; taking time = weaker.
* '''No talk; use takes to correct.'''
* '''Conservative default for speculative hands.'''
* The median hand is exactly J7.

== Simple interpertation pre flop ==
When suits are ignored, here is what all chips initially have (you have the exact hand at the middle of the page):
{| class="wikitable"
!Chips
!6 players
!5 players
!4 players
!3 players
|-
|6
|pairs / A high
|
|
|
|-
|5
|A low / K
|pairs / A
|
|
|-
|4
|Q / J high
|K / Q high
|pairs / A
|
|-
|3
|J low / 10
|Q low / J
|K / Q
|pairs / A / K
|-
|2
|9 / 8
|10 / 9 / 8
|J / 10 / 9
|Q / J / 10
|-
|1
|7
|7
|8 / 7
|9 / 8 / 7
|}
For 6 players put 1.5 categories in each chips starting highest, pairs counting for 1.

For 5 players do the same but pairs count for 0,5.

For 4 players put 2 categories in each chip starting highest.

For 3 players put 3 categories in each chip starting highest.

You end up with only chip 2 being slightly out of place.

== Poker mindset ==
If you are coming from Poker, you really should change your mind on some things:

Colors has no value until you hit your flush. If you start putting value to them, others with a 97 hand will have no way to compare 96s & 98o.

Connectors has no value too else that become fastly confusing. Start by taking experience and know what you are doing before maybe putting very minor value to them.

Many top players put their pairs in the highest token possible: 22>AK. Note that it's possible too to put pairs as their real value pre flop (88=middle chip), but if you do that you must put yourself at the right place post flop.
== Post flop advices ==
When hitting a double pair or better fight for the highest token. After someone steal it twice/thrice from you re-evaluate the board to look for potential straight/flushes (note that some straight are impossible from the first chip choice). Then evaluate for the bottom double pair or high one.

When having a pocket hand pair pre flop higher than all value on the table, fight for the highest token.

When hitting top pair (the pair from the highest value on the table) take the highest token. You could insist once depending of first chip choice.

When hitting middle pair, take the second highest token if that's an increase from the first round. If it's the same value or below, wait for others choices. Note that it's possible that you took the highest token twice. On that case, others doesn't know you hit a pair, and you should take in consideration for future rounds.

When hitting bottom pair, wait for others choices, and then put yourself the lowest between those which improved.

When hitting nothing take the 1/2 token or one or two below your first chip.

== Turn and River advices ==
That card start to be really situationnal.

If that new card open straight and flushes, nearly any hand could goes for the highest chip immediately. Even if you got a double pair you should be careful about fighting for this highest token. Take into consideration how many straight and flushes there is. If it's really few (1 or 2) then the player which hit those should insist a lot for the highest token. That mean with a slightly weaker hand (like double pair) you could try to insist for 6. On the contrary if there is lots of straight and flushes (4 or 9+), take a lower chip more easily.

If that new card is above all others cards a new pair most likely put yourself as the best or second best hand, so take a really high chip.

If that new card is around the same value of others, take an higher chip, and let others decide where they put yourself. They know which pair you got but you don't know which pair they got.

If that new card is below all others cards, put yourself as the higher chip between those which never improved.

Note that pocket pairs can rank weirdly.

Finallya at the River, the nuts (highest possible hand) should insist a lot for the highest token since there is nothing to lose. Knowing that, the second best hand can do the same. The third best hand can do the same but show weakness once after the fight while still showing they want the best token. Going lower than that is much trickier, especially for flushes board.

== Correcting mistakes ==
If you or someone else made a mistake that can easily be confusing.

It can be corrected naturally by someone hitting a pair, or even rarely with two pockets pairs by someone else hitting a pair.

If it's obvious what is happening you could try to correct it immediately (post flop), especially if there was some fight pre flop.

But I would advise you to let everything goes as planned, and in the final turn, still take your normal chip if the river can be confusing, and after everyone is happy with their chip, fight for the potential mistake which happened earlier. That's because when doing that, it look like to others that you hit a pair, which is extremely confusing.

==Full range and average hand pre-flop ==
This cheat sheet map recommended pre‑flop chips depending of the number of players. Use this at the table as a compact reference. Pairs are above all. All picks are '''rank‑only''' (no suits). Connector (7&8 of diamond) has no value.

''Note that even if the numbers are mathematiquely coherent, since pairs can often more easily be differenciated from A high, you could want to lower slightly the highest range. And I'm unsure the range should be uniform, maybe the range from the outside should be bigger.''

Finally, note that this sheet is only without context. It's great to know where you should put your hand initially. As soon as some player(s) take any chip(s), the value of that sheet fall pretty fast.

===How to read this sheet===
*The 1326 part assume that there will be the same amount of players going for every chip (1326 possible hands)(22100 with 3 cards hand)
*The 91 part assume that there will be an equal amount of combinaisons for every chip (91 combinaisons)(455 with 3 cards hand)
*5 = top, 1 = bottom.
*'''Timing cues:''' Quick pick = stronger; taking time or returning a chip = weaker. Use timing as secondary confirmation only.
*'''Use chip takes to correct misorders''' rather than arguing.
*ph=possible hands, c=combinaisons
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!3 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|16.67%
|median 1 hand
|7/5
|7/6
|10/4/2
|10/8/5
|-
|33.33%
|between 1/2 chips
|9/8
|10/3
|J/10/5
|Q/10/4
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 2 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|66.67%
|between 2/3 chips
|K/2
|K/6
|A/7/2
|3/3/7
|-
|83.33%
|median 3 hand
|A/5
|A/10
|2/2/7
|9/9/J
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!4 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|12,5%
|median 1 hand
| colspan="2" |7/2
|10/5/5
|9/8/7
|-
|25%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/7
|9/2
|J/4/3
|J/10/2
|-
|37.5%
|median 2 hand
|10/5
|10/7
|Q/6/5
|K/5/3
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 2/3 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|62,5%
|median 3 hand
|Q/8
|K/2
|K/Q/7
|A/K/10
|-
|75%
|between 3/4 chips
|K/9
|A/3
|A/J/4
|6/6/9
|-
|87,5%
|median 4 hand
|A/8
|2/2
|5/5/10
|J/J/5
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!5 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|10%
|median 1 hand
| colspan="2" |6/4
|8/7/6
|9/6/5
|-
|20%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/3
|8/4
|10/7/5
|J/5/4
|-
|30%
|median 2 hand
|9/5
|9/7
|J/8/6
|Q/8/2
|-
|40%
|between 2/3 chips
|10/7
|10/9
|Q/8/5
|K/8/2
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 3 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|60%
|between 3/4 chips
|Q/6
|Q/10
|K/J/8
|A/Q/8
|-
|70%
|median 4 hand
|K/5
|K/9
|A/9/2
|4/4/10
|-
|80%
|between 4/5 chips
|A/2
|A/7
|A/K/3
|8/8/6
|-
|90%
|median 5 hand
|A/10
|4/4
|7/7/9
|Q/Q/4
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!6 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|8,33%
|median 1 hand
| colspan="2" |6/2
|8/6/4
|9/4/2
|-
|16,67%
|between 1/2 chips
|7/5
|7/6
|10/4/2
|10/8/5
|-
|25%
|median 2 hand
|8/7
|9/2
|J/4/3
|J/10/2
|-
|33,33%
|between 2/3 chips
|9/8
|10/3
|J/10/5
|Q/10/4
|-
|41,67%
|median 3 hand
|10/8
|J/2
|Q/9/4
|K/9/4
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 3/4 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|58,33%
|median 4 hand
|Q/5
|Q/9
|K/J/2
|A/J/10
|-
|66,67%
|between 4/5 chips
|K/2
|K/6
|A/7/2
|3/3/7
|-
|75%
|median 5 hand
|K/9
|A/3
|A/J/4
|6/6/9
|-
|83,33%
|between 5/6 chips
|A/5
|A/10
|2/2/7
|9/9/J
|-
|91,67%
|median 6 hand
|A/J
|6/6
|8/8/Q
|Q/Q/K
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}

== Double pairs on the table (and single pair) ==
When there is two pairs on the table, and you hit nothing, only your highest card count.

That mean per example with a board JJ447, and you having A6, you can play that hand as if it was A2. That mean that if there was a fight earlier and you suspect someone else having better than you, you can play your hand as if it was A2 instead of A6. If that player got A8 or KQ, they could react differently.

In that same example if you got 62, you can take the lowest chip even if you highly suspect someone else has lower than you, because your hand will be JJ447 anyway.

But the most important thing is '''pocket pairs'''. If you got 22, and the second 4 arrived in the river, then '''while your hand was probably the best one pre flop''', still was good post flop and after the turn, '''it became the worst one after the river''' because you don't have a triple pair, you have the lowest possible hand: JJ447. That mean that an 82 which probably took 1 or 2 pre flop is now beating you. And so you should fight for the 1 and insist a lot since it's often not obvious for others players.

If you didn't understood that, you take your best 5 cards to create your hand. That mean that AJ99752 has the same value than AJ99743: they both use AJ997 to do their best hand.

If there is no pair on the board, and you have two pairs, then you should be high. When an unrelated pair come in the flop, now everyone which previously got one pair got the same combinaison than you (or 3 of a kind). That mean that now you should rank yourself as the best of your two pairs, which could mean going down even if others didn't improved.

== 4 cards of the same color on the table ==
'Obviously' on that kind of board, what you should be doing shift completely. Per example with 4 diamonds, we now ask you to rank yourself from the highest diamond card to the lowest diamond card. A hand with an Ace of spade and a 2 of diamond is now weaker than a 4 of spade and a 3 of diamond.

You first should put attention to which player potentially have 2 diamonds on their hand, it's more likely than their highest diamond card is high.

And then pay attention to potential flush house and straight, and good luck, it's like a situational pre flop situation.

If you hit nothing, don't hesitate to goes really low.

Tips thegang

2026-05-24T18:08:25Z

Romain672: /* Simple interpertation pre flop */ added way to remember that interpretation

''The following tips aren’t set-in-stone rules, but are meant to give you an idea of how communication works in this game. As a group, figure out for yourselves how you’d like to communicate best without discussing your hand.''

Do not be afraid to '''take chips away''' from other players. This is exactly how you communicate the quality of your own hand and help others to categorize you. The more the chips move, the more communication takes place.

Always evaluate the '''current state''', not how good it might still become.
'''1st Phase''': Having a pair from the start: take a high number (and higher than your first chip), otherwise evaluate the rank of your High Card.
'''From 2nd Phase''': If something was revealed in this phase that increases your rating, take a higher (or at least equally high) chip than in the previous round. This allows fellow players to draw conclusions about your specific card values.
Conversely: If nothing fitting your hand was revealed, take a chip that is 1 lower. If then no one wants to indicate a hit with a higher chip, you can return to the evaluation of the previous round.

== Introduction ==
This is a concise ''pre‑flop strategy guide'' for ''The Gang'' focused on **rank‑only** pre‑flop chip selection. It defines a simple, repeatable convention for mapping numbered chips to rank percentiles, explains why the convention helps, clarifies how '''Ace‑high''' hands should be placed so both charts work smoothly, and provides two separate, actionable mapping options you can adopt at the table.

== Core conventions to adopt ==
* '''Establish a ranking convention.''' Map each chip number to a clear percentile bucket so everyone interprets chip choices the same way.
* '''Conservative default.''' On the pre‑flop stage, default to slightly conservative picks and only escalate when community cards materially change the actual hand strength.
* '''Controlled chip theft.''' Taking another player’s chip is the only legal private signal—use it to correct obvious misrankings, not to bluff.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.''' Pre‑flop picks are based on ranks only; suitedness and flush/straight potential are ignored for the initial ranking.
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking a chip quickly signals a stronger rank; taking time to pick a chip, or picking then returning a chip, signals a weaker rank.
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.''' Base your pre‑flop chip choice exclusively on the two ranks in your hand.

== Why a percentile convention helps ==
* '''Reduces ambiguity.''' Percentiles let players interpret rankings consistently.
* '''Makes steals informative.''' A chip take becomes a clear corrective statement about percentile.
* '''Improves planning.'''
** ''' Schedule Specialists and Challenges ''' deliberately because you know which percentile buckets are likely to win or lose across rounds.
** ''' Budget risk ''' by tracking how many top‑bucket rank outcomes remain and deciding when to spend a Specialist or accept a Challenge.
** ''' Assign informal roles ''' based on predictable chip distributions.
** ''' Make corrective plays efficient: ''' a chip take can reallocate risk and reduce disputes.

== Pre‑flop decision rules (rank‑only) ==
* '''Pairs are one group.''' Treat any pocket pair as a single pre‑flop signal category for the initial chip pick.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.'''
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.'''
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking quickly = stronger; taking time = weaker.
* '''No talk; use takes to correct.'''
* '''Conservative default for speculative hands.'''
* The median hand is exactly J7.

== Simple interpertation pre flop ==
When suits are ignored, here is what all chips initially have (you have the exact hand at the middle of the page):
{| class="wikitable"
!Chips
!6 players
!5 players
!4 players
!3 players
|-
|6
|pairs / A high
|
|
|
|-
|5
|A low / K
|pairs / A
|
|
|-
|4
|Q / J high
|K / Q high
|pairs / A
|
|-
|3
|J low / 10
|Q low / J
|K / Q
|pairs / A / K
|-
|2
|9 / 8
|10 / 9 / 8
|J / 10 / 9
|Q / J / 10
|-
|1
|7
|7
|8 / 7
|9 / 8 / 7
|}
For 6 players put 1.5 categories in each chips starting highest, pairs counting for 1.

For 5 players do the same but pairs count for 0,5.

For 4 players put 2 categories in each chip starting highest.

For 3 players put 3 categories in each chip starting highest.

You end up with only chip 2 being slightly out of place.

== Post flop advices ==
When hitting a double pair or better fight for the highest token. After someone steal it twice/thrice from you re-evaluate the board to look for potential straight/flushes (note that some straight are impossible from the first chip choice). Then evaluate for the bottom double pair or high one.

When having a pocket hand pair pre flop higher than all value on the table, fight for the highest token.

When hitting top pair (the pair from the highest value on the table) take the highest token. You could insist once depending of first chip choice.

When hitting middle pair, take the second highest token if that's an increase from the first round. If it's the same value or below, wait for others choices. Note that it's possible that you took the highest token twice. On that case, others doesn't know you hit a pair, and you should take in consideration for future rounds.

When hitting bottom pair, wait for others choices, and then put yourself the lowest between those which improved.

When hitting nothing take the 1/2 token or one or two below your first chip.

== Turn and River advices ==
That card start to be really situationnal.

If that new card open straight and flushes, nearly any hand could goes for the highest chip immediately. Even if you got a double pair you should be careful about fighting for this highest token. Take into consideration how many straight and flushes there is. If it's really few (1 or 2) then the player which hit those should insist a lot for the highest token. That mean with a slightly weaker hand (like double pair) you could try to insist for 6. On the contrary if there is lots of straight and flushes (4 or 9+), take a lower chip more easily.

If that new card is above all others cards a new pair most likely put yourself as the best or second best hand, so take a really high chip.

If that new card is around the same value of others, take an higher chip, and let others decide where they put yourself. They know which pair you got but you don't know which pair they got.

If that new card is below all others cards, put yourself as the higher chip between those which never improved.

Note that pocket pairs can rank weirdly.

Finallya at the River, the nuts (highest possible hand) should insist a lot for the highest token since there is nothing to lose. Knowing that, the second best hand can do the same. The third best hand can do the same but show weakness once after the fight while still showing they want the best token. Going lower than that is much trickier, especially for flushes board.

== Correcting mistakes ==
If you or someone else made a mistake that can easily be confusing.

It can be corrected naturally by someone hitting a pair, or even rarely with two pockets pairs by someone else hitting a pair.

If it's obvious what is happening you could try to correct it immediately (post flop), especially if there was some fight pre flop.

But I would advise you to let everything goes as planned, and in the final turn, still take your normal chip if the river can be confusing, and after everyone is happy with their chip, fight for the potential mistake which happened earlier. That's because when doing that, it look like to others that you hit a pair, which is extremely confusing.

==Full range and average hand pre-flop ==
This cheat sheet map recommended pre‑flop chips depending of the number of players. Use this at the table as a compact reference. Pairs are above all. All picks are '''rank‑only''' (no suits). Connector (7&8 of diamond) has no value.

''Note that even if the numbers are mathematiquely coherent, since pairs can often more easily be differenciated from A high, you could want to lower slightly the highest range. And I'm unsure the range should be uniform, maybe the range from the outside should be bigger.''

Finally, note that this sheet is only without context. It's great to know where you should put your hand initially. As soon as some player(s) take any chip(s), the value of that sheet fall pretty fast.

===How to read this sheet===
*The 1326 part assume that there will be the same amount of players going for every chip (1326 possible hands)(22100 with 3 cards hand)
*The 91 part assume that there will be an equal amount of combinaisons for every chip (91 combinaisons)(455 with 3 cards hand)
*5 = top, 1 = bottom.
*'''Timing cues:''' Quick pick = stronger; taking time or returning a chip = weaker. Use timing as secondary confirmation only.
*'''Use chip takes to correct misorders''' rather than arguing.
*ph=possible hands, c=combinaisons
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!3 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|16.67%
|median 1 hand
|7/5
|7/6
|10/4/2
|10/8/5
|-
|33.33%
|between 1/2 chips
|9/8
|10/3
|J/10/5
|Q/10/4
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 2 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|66.67%
|between 2/3 chips
|K/2
|K/6
|A/7/2
|3/3/7
|-
|83.33%
|median 3 hand
|A/5
|A/10
|2/2/7
|9/9/J
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!4 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|12,5%
|median 1 hand
| colspan="2" |7/2
|10/5/5
|9/8/7
|-
|25%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/7
|9/2
|J/4/3
|J/10/2
|-
|37.5%
|median 2 hand
|10/5
|10/7
|Q/6/5
|K/5/3
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 2/3 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|62,5%
|median 3 hand
|Q/8
|K/2
|K/Q/7
|A/K/10
|-
|75%
|between 3/4 chips
|K/9
|A/3
|A/J/4
|6/6/9
|-
|87,5%
|median 4 hand
|A/8
|2/2
|5/5/10
|J/J/5
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!5 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|10%
|median 1 hand
| colspan="2" |6/4
|8/7/6
|9/6/5
|-
|20%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/3
|8/4
|10/7/5
|J/5/4
|-
|30%
|median 2 hand
|9/5
|9/7
|J/8/6
|Q/8/2
|-
|40%
|between 2/3 chips
|10/7
|10/9
|Q/8/5
|K/8/2
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 3 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|60%
|between 3/4 chips
|Q/6
|Q/10
|K/J/8
|A/Q/8
|-
|70%
|median 4 hand
|K/5
|K/9
|A/9/2
|4/4/10
|-
|80%
|between 4/5 chips
|A/2
|A/7
|A/K/3
|8/8/6
|-
|90%
|median 5 hand
|A/10
|4/4
|7/7/9
|Q/Q/4
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!6 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|8,33%
|median 1 hand
| colspan="2" |6/2
|8/6/4
|9/4/2
|-
|16,67%
|between 1/2 chips
|7/5
|7/6
|10/4/2
|10/8/5
|-
|25%
|median 2 hand
|8/7
|9/2
|J/4/3
|J/10/2
|-
|33,33%
|between 2/3 chips
|9/8
|10/3
|J/10/5
|Q/10/4
|-
|41,67%
|median 3 hand
|10/8
|J/2
|Q/9/4
|K/9/4
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 3/4 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|58,33%
|median 4 hand
|Q/5
|Q/9
|K/J/2
|A/J/10
|-
|66,67%
|between 4/5 chips
|K/2
|K/6
|A/7/2
|3/3/7
|-
|75%
|median 5 hand
|K/9
|A/3
|A/J/4
|6/6/9
|-
|83,33%
|between 5/6 chips
|A/5
|A/10
|2/2/7
|9/9/J
|-
|91,67%
|median 6 hand
|A/J
|6/6
|8/8/Q
|Q/Q/K
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}

== Double pairs on the table (and single pair) ==
When there is two pairs on the table, and you hit nothing, only your highest card count.

That mean per example with a board JJ447, and you having A6, you can play that hand as if it was A2. That mean that if there was a fight earlier and you suspect someone else having better than you, you can play your hand as if it was A2 instead of A6. If that player got A8 or KQ, they could react differently.

In that same example if you got 62, you can take the lowest chip even if you highly suspect someone else has lower than you, because your hand will be JJ447 anyway.

But the most important thing is '''pocket pairs'''. If you got 22, and the second 4 arrived in the river, then '''while your hand was probably the best one pre flop''', still was good post flop and after the turn, '''it became the worst one after the river''' because you don't have a triple pair, you have the lowest possible hand: JJ447. That mean that an 82 which probably took 1 or 2 pre flop is now beating you. And so you should fight for the 1 and insist a lot since it's often not obvious for others players.

If you didn't understood that, you take your best 5 cards to create your hand. That mean that AJ99752 has the same value than AJ99743: they both use AJ997 to do their best hand.

If there is no pair on the board, and you have two pairs, then you should be high. When an unrelated pair come in the flop, now everyone which previously got one pair got the same combinaison than you (or 3 of a kind). That mean that now you should rank yourself as the best of your two pairs, which could mean going down even if others didn't improved.

== 4 cards of the same color on the table ==
'Obviously' on that kind of board, what you should be doing shift completely. Per example with 4 diamonds, we now ask you to rank yourself from the highest diamond card to the lowest diamond card. A hand with an Ace of spade and a 2 of diamond is now weaker than a 4 of spade and a 3 of diamond.

You first should put attention to which player potentially have 2 diamonds on their hand, it's more likely than their highest diamond card is high.

And then pay attention to potential flush house and straight, and good luck, it's like a situational pre flop situation.

If you hit nothing, don't hesitate to goes really low.

Tips thegang

2026-05-24T18:04:56Z

Romain672: /* Simple interpertation pre flop for 5 players: */ Adding simple interpretations for all players

''The following tips aren’t set-in-stone rules, but are meant to give you an idea of how communication works in this game. As a group, figure out for yourselves how you’d like to communicate best without discussing your hand.''

Do not be afraid to '''take chips away''' from other players. This is exactly how you communicate the quality of your own hand and help others to categorize you. The more the chips move, the more communication takes place.

Always evaluate the '''current state''', not how good it might still become.
'''1st Phase''': Having a pair from the start: take a high number (and higher than your first chip), otherwise evaluate the rank of your High Card.
'''From 2nd Phase''': If something was revealed in this phase that increases your rating, take a higher (or at least equally high) chip than in the previous round. This allows fellow players to draw conclusions about your specific card values.
Conversely: If nothing fitting your hand was revealed, take a chip that is 1 lower. If then no one wants to indicate a hit with a higher chip, you can return to the evaluation of the previous round.

== Introduction ==
This is a concise ''pre‑flop strategy guide'' for ''The Gang'' focused on **rank‑only** pre‑flop chip selection. It defines a simple, repeatable convention for mapping numbered chips to rank percentiles, explains why the convention helps, clarifies how '''Ace‑high''' hands should be placed so both charts work smoothly, and provides two separate, actionable mapping options you can adopt at the table.

== Core conventions to adopt ==
* '''Establish a ranking convention.''' Map each chip number to a clear percentile bucket so everyone interprets chip choices the same way.
* '''Conservative default.''' On the pre‑flop stage, default to slightly conservative picks and only escalate when community cards materially change the actual hand strength.
* '''Controlled chip theft.''' Taking another player’s chip is the only legal private signal—use it to correct obvious misrankings, not to bluff.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.''' Pre‑flop picks are based on ranks only; suitedness and flush/straight potential are ignored for the initial ranking.
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking a chip quickly signals a stronger rank; taking time to pick a chip, or picking then returning a chip, signals a weaker rank.
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.''' Base your pre‑flop chip choice exclusively on the two ranks in your hand.

== Why a percentile convention helps ==
* '''Reduces ambiguity.''' Percentiles let players interpret rankings consistently.
* '''Makes steals informative.''' A chip take becomes a clear corrective statement about percentile.
* '''Improves planning.'''
** ''' Schedule Specialists and Challenges ''' deliberately because you know which percentile buckets are likely to win or lose across rounds.
** ''' Budget risk ''' by tracking how many top‑bucket rank outcomes remain and deciding when to spend a Specialist or accept a Challenge.
** ''' Assign informal roles ''' based on predictable chip distributions.
** ''' Make corrective plays efficient: ''' a chip take can reallocate risk and reduce disputes.

== Pre‑flop decision rules (rank‑only) ==
* '''Pairs are one group.''' Treat any pocket pair as a single pre‑flop signal category for the initial chip pick.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.'''
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.'''
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking quickly = stronger; taking time = weaker.
* '''No talk; use takes to correct.'''
* '''Conservative default for speculative hands.'''
* The median hand is exactly J7.

== Simple interpertation pre flop ==
When suits are ignored, here is what all chips initially have (you have the exact hand at the middle of the page):
{| class="wikitable"
!Chips
!6 players
!5 players
!4 players
!3 players
|-
|6
|pairs / A high
|
|
|
|-
|5
|A low / K
|pairs / A
|
|
|-
|4
|Q / J high
|K / Q high
|pairs / A
|
|-
|3
|J low / 10
|Q low / J
|K / Q
|pairs / A / K
|-
|2
|9 / 8
|10 / 9 / 8
|J / 10 / 9
|Q / J / 10
|-
|1
|7
|7
|8 / 7
|9 / 8 / 7
|}

== Post flop advices ==
When hitting a double pair or better fight for the highest token. After someone steal it twice/thrice from you re-evaluate the board to look for potential straight/flushes (note that some straight are impossible from the first chip choice). Then evaluate for the bottom double pair or high one.

When having a pocket hand pair pre flop higher than all value on the table, fight for the highest token.

When hitting top pair (the pair from the highest value on the table) take the highest token. You could insist once depending of first chip choice.

When hitting middle pair, take the second highest token if that's an increase from the first round. If it's the same value or below, wait for others choices. Note that it's possible that you took the highest token twice. On that case, others doesn't know you hit a pair, and you should take in consideration for future rounds.

When hitting bottom pair, wait for others choices, and then put yourself the lowest between those which improved.

When hitting nothing take the 1/2 token or one or two below your first chip.

== Turn and River advices ==
That card start to be really situationnal.

If that new card open straight and flushes, nearly any hand could goes for the highest chip immediately. Even if you got a double pair you should be careful about fighting for this highest token. Take into consideration how many straight and flushes there is. If it's really few (1 or 2) then the player which hit those should insist a lot for the highest token. That mean with a slightly weaker hand (like double pair) you could try to insist for 6. On the contrary if there is lots of straight and flushes (4 or 9+), take a lower chip more easily.

If that new card is above all others cards a new pair most likely put yourself as the best or second best hand, so take a really high chip.

If that new card is around the same value of others, take an higher chip, and let others decide where they put yourself. They know which pair you got but you don't know which pair they got.

If that new card is below all others cards, put yourself as the higher chip between those which never improved.

Note that pocket pairs can rank weirdly.

Finallya at the River, the nuts (highest possible hand) should insist a lot for the highest token since there is nothing to lose. Knowing that, the second best hand can do the same. The third best hand can do the same but show weakness once after the fight while still showing they want the best token. Going lower than that is much trickier, especially for flushes board.

== Correcting mistakes ==
If you or someone else made a mistake that can easily be confusing.

It can be corrected naturally by someone hitting a pair, or even rarely with two pockets pairs by someone else hitting a pair.

If it's obvious what is happening you could try to correct it immediately (post flop), especially if there was some fight pre flop.

But I would advise you to let everything goes as planned, and in the final turn, still take your normal chip if the river can be confusing, and after everyone is happy with their chip, fight for the potential mistake which happened earlier. That's because when doing that, it look like to others that you hit a pair, which is extremely confusing.

==Full range and average hand pre-flop ==
This cheat sheet map recommended pre‑flop chips depending of the number of players. Use this at the table as a compact reference. Pairs are above all. All picks are '''rank‑only''' (no suits). Connector (7&8 of diamond) has no value.

''Note that even if the numbers are mathematiquely coherent, since pairs can often more easily be differenciated from A high, you could want to lower slightly the highest range. And I'm unsure the range should be uniform, maybe the range from the outside should be bigger.''

Finally, note that this sheet is only without context. It's great to know where you should put your hand initially. As soon as some player(s) take any chip(s), the value of that sheet fall pretty fast.

===How to read this sheet===
*The 1326 part assume that there will be the same amount of players going for every chip (1326 possible hands)(22100 with 3 cards hand)
*The 91 part assume that there will be an equal amount of combinaisons for every chip (91 combinaisons)(455 with 3 cards hand)
*5 = top, 1 = bottom.
*'''Timing cues:''' Quick pick = stronger; taking time or returning a chip = weaker. Use timing as secondary confirmation only.
*'''Use chip takes to correct misorders''' rather than arguing.
*ph=possible hands, c=combinaisons
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!3 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|16.67%
|median 1 hand
|7/5
|7/6
|10/4/2
|10/8/5
|-
|33.33%
|between 1/2 chips
|9/8
|10/3
|J/10/5
|Q/10/4
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 2 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|66.67%
|between 2/3 chips
|K/2
|K/6
|A/7/2
|3/3/7
|-
|83.33%
|median 3 hand
|A/5
|A/10
|2/2/7
|9/9/J
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!4 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|12,5%
|median 1 hand
| colspan="2" |7/2
|10/5/5
|9/8/7
|-
|25%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/7
|9/2
|J/4/3
|J/10/2
|-
|37.5%
|median 2 hand
|10/5
|10/7
|Q/6/5
|K/5/3
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 2/3 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|62,5%
|median 3 hand
|Q/8
|K/2
|K/Q/7
|A/K/10
|-
|75%
|between 3/4 chips
|K/9
|A/3
|A/J/4
|6/6/9
|-
|87,5%
|median 4 hand
|A/8
|2/2
|5/5/10
|J/J/5
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!5 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|10%
|median 1 hand
| colspan="2" |6/4
|8/7/6
|9/6/5
|-
|20%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/3
|8/4
|10/7/5
|J/5/4
|-
|30%
|median 2 hand
|9/5
|9/7
|J/8/6
|Q/8/2
|-
|40%
|between 2/3 chips
|10/7
|10/9
|Q/8/5
|K/8/2
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 3 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|60%
|between 3/4 chips
|Q/6
|Q/10
|K/J/8
|A/Q/8
|-
|70%
|median 4 hand
|K/5
|K/9
|A/9/2
|4/4/10
|-
|80%
|between 4/5 chips
|A/2
|A/7
|A/K/3
|8/8/6
|-
|90%
|median 5 hand
|A/10
|4/4
|7/7/9
|Q/Q/4
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!6 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|8,33%
|median 1 hand
| colspan="2" |6/2
|8/6/4
|9/4/2
|-
|16,67%
|between 1/2 chips
|7/5
|7/6
|10/4/2
|10/8/5
|-
|25%
|median 2 hand
|8/7
|9/2
|J/4/3
|J/10/2
|-
|33,33%
|between 2/3 chips
|9/8
|10/3
|J/10/5
|Q/10/4
|-
|41,67%
|median 3 hand
|10/8
|J/2
|Q/9/4
|K/9/4
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 3/4 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|58,33%
|median 4 hand
|Q/5
|Q/9
|K/J/2
|A/J/10
|-
|66,67%
|between 4/5 chips
|K/2
|K/6
|A/7/2
|3/3/7
|-
|75%
|median 5 hand
|K/9
|A/3
|A/J/4
|6/6/9
|-
|83,33%
|between 5/6 chips
|A/5
|A/10
|2/2/7
|9/9/J
|-
|91,67%
|median 6 hand
|A/J
|6/6
|8/8/Q
|Q/Q/K
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}

== Double pairs on the table (and single pair) ==
When there is two pairs on the table, and you hit nothing, only your highest card count.

That mean per example with a board JJ447, and you having A6, you can play that hand as if it was A2. That mean that if there was a fight earlier and you suspect someone else having better than you, you can play your hand as if it was A2 instead of A6. If that player got A8 or KQ, they could react differently.

In that same example if you got 62, you can take the lowest chip even if you highly suspect someone else has lower than you, because your hand will be JJ447 anyway.

But the most important thing is '''pocket pairs'''. If you got 22, and the second 4 arrived in the river, then '''while your hand was probably the best one pre flop''', still was good post flop and after the turn, '''it became the worst one after the river''' because you don't have a triple pair, you have the lowest possible hand: JJ447. That mean that an 82 which probably took 1 or 2 pre flop is now beating you. And so you should fight for the 1 and insist a lot since it's often not obvious for others players.

If you didn't understood that, you take your best 5 cards to create your hand. That mean that AJ99752 has the same value than AJ99743: they both use AJ997 to do their best hand.

If there is no pair on the board, and you have two pairs, then you should be high. When an unrelated pair come in the flop, now everyone which previously got one pair got the same combinaison than you (or 3 of a kind). That mean that now you should rank yourself as the best of your two pairs, which could mean going down even if others didn't improved.

== 4 cards of the same color on the table ==
'Obviously' on that kind of board, what you should be doing shift completely. Per example with 4 diamonds, we now ask you to rank yourself from the highest diamond card to the lowest diamond card. A hand with an Ace of spade and a 2 of diamond is now weaker than a 4 of spade and a 3 of diamond.

You first should put attention to which player potentially have 2 diamonds on their hand, it's more likely than their highest diamond card is high.

And then pay attention to potential flush house and straight, and good luck, it's like a situational pre flop situation.

If you hit nothing, don't hesitate to goes really low.

Tips thegang

2026-05-24T14:56:46Z

Romain672: /* How to read this sheet */

''The following tips aren’t set-in-stone rules, but are meant to give you an idea of how communication works in this game. As a group, figure out for yourselves how you’d like to communicate best without discussing your hand.''

Do not be afraid to '''take chips away''' from other players. This is exactly how you communicate the quality of your own hand and help others to categorize you. The more the chips move, the more communication takes place.

Always evaluate the '''current state''', not how good it might still become.
'''1st Phase''': Having a pair from the start: take a high number (and higher than your first chip), otherwise evaluate the rank of your High Card.
'''From 2nd Phase''': If something was revealed in this phase that increases your rating, take a higher (or at least equally high) chip than in the previous round. This allows fellow players to draw conclusions about your specific card values.
Conversely: If nothing fitting your hand was revealed, take a chip that is 1 lower. If then no one wants to indicate a hit with a higher chip, you can return to the evaluation of the previous round.

== Introduction ==
This is a concise ''pre‑flop strategy guide'' for ''The Gang'' focused on **rank‑only** pre‑flop chip selection. It defines a simple, repeatable convention for mapping numbered chips to rank percentiles, explains why the convention helps, clarifies how '''Ace‑high''' hands should be placed so both charts work smoothly, and provides two separate, actionable mapping options you can adopt at the table.

== Core conventions to adopt ==
* '''Establish a ranking convention.''' Map each chip number to a clear percentile bucket so everyone interprets chip choices the same way.
* '''Conservative default.''' On the pre‑flop stage, default to slightly conservative picks and only escalate when community cards materially change the actual hand strength.
* '''Controlled chip theft.''' Taking another player’s chip is the only legal private signal—use it to correct obvious misrankings, not to bluff.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.''' Pre‑flop picks are based on ranks only; suitedness and flush/straight potential are ignored for the initial ranking.
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking a chip quickly signals a stronger rank; taking time to pick a chip, or picking then returning a chip, signals a weaker rank.
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.''' Base your pre‑flop chip choice exclusively on the two ranks in your hand.

== Why a percentile convention helps ==
* '''Reduces ambiguity.''' Percentiles let players interpret rankings consistently.
* '''Makes steals informative.''' A chip take becomes a clear corrective statement about percentile.
* '''Improves planning.'''
** ''' Schedule Specialists and Challenges ''' deliberately because you know which percentile buckets are likely to win or lose across rounds.
** ''' Budget risk ''' by tracking how many top‑bucket rank outcomes remain and deciding when to spend a Specialist or accept a Challenge.
** ''' Assign informal roles ''' based on predictable chip distributions.
** ''' Make corrective plays efficient: ''' a chip take can reallocate risk and reduce disputes.

== Pre‑flop decision rules (rank‑only) ==
* '''Pairs are one group.''' Treat any pocket pair as a single pre‑flop signal category for the initial chip pick.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.'''
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.'''
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking quickly = stronger; taking time = weaker.
* '''No talk; use takes to correct.'''
* '''Conservative default for speculative hands.'''
* The median hand is exactly J7.

== Simple interpertation pre flop for 5 players: ==
When suits are ignored, here is what all chips initially have (you have the exact hand at the middle of the page):
{| class="wikitable"
!Chips
!Group
|-
|5
|Pairs / A high
|-
|4
|K / Q high
|-
|3
|Q low / J high
|-
|2
|10/9/8 high
|-
|1
|7 high
|}

== Post flop advices ==
When hitting a double pair or better fight for the highest token. After someone steal it twice/thrice from you re-evaluate the board to look for potential straight/flushes (note that some straight are impossible from the first chip choice). Then evaluate for the bottom double pair or high one.

When having a pocket hand pair pre flop higher than all value on the table, fight for the highest token.

When hitting top pair (the pair from the highest value on the table) take the highest token. You could insist once depending of first chip choice.

When hitting middle pair, take the second highest token if that's an increase from the first round. If it's the same value or below, wait for others choices. Note that it's possible that you took the highest token twice. On that case, others doesn't know you hit a pair, and you should take in consideration for future rounds.

When hitting bottom pair, wait for others choices, and then put yourself the lowest between those which improved.

When hitting nothing take the 1/2 token or one or two below your first chip.

== Turn and River advices ==
That card start to be really situationnal.

If that new card open straight and flushes, nearly any hand could goes for the highest chip immediately. Even if you got a double pair you should be careful about fighting for this highest token. Take into consideration how many straight and flushes there is. If it's really few (1 or 2) then the player which hit those should insist a lot for the highest token. That mean with a slightly weaker hand (like double pair) you could try to insist for 6. On the contrary if there is lots of straight and flushes (4 or 9+), take a lower chip more easily.

If that new card is above all others cards a new pair most likely put yourself as the best or second best hand, so take a really high chip.

If that new card is around the same value of others, take an higher chip, and let others decide where they put yourself. They know which pair you got but you don't know which pair they got.

If that new card is below all others cards, put yourself as the higher chip between those which never improved.

Note that pocket pairs can rank weirdly.

Finallya at the River, the nuts (highest possible hand) should insist a lot for the highest token since there is nothing to lose. Knowing that, the second best hand can do the same. The third best hand can do the same but show weakness once after the fight while still showing they want the best token. Going lower than that is much trickier, especially for flushes board.

== Correcting mistakes ==
If you or someone else made a mistake that can easily be confusing.

It can be corrected naturally by someone hitting a pair, or even rarely with two pockets pairs by someone else hitting a pair.

If it's obvious what is happening you could try to correct it immediately (post flop), especially if there was some fight pre flop.

But I would advise you to let everything goes as planned, and in the final turn, still take your normal chip if the river can be confusing, and after everyone is happy with their chip, fight for the potential mistake which happened earlier. That's because when doing that, it look like to others that you hit a pair, which is extremely confusing.

==Full range and average hand pre-flop ==
This cheat sheet map recommended pre‑flop chips depending of the number of players. Use this at the table as a compact reference. Pairs are above all. All picks are '''rank‑only''' (no suits). Connector (7&8 of diamond) has no value.

''Note that even if the numbers are mathematiquely coherent, since pairs can often more easily be differenciated from A high, you could want to lower slightly the highest range. And I'm unsure the range should be uniform, maybe the range from the outside should be bigger.''

Finally, note that this sheet is only without context. It's great to know where you should put your hand initially. As soon as some player(s) take any chip(s), the value of that sheet fall pretty fast.

===How to read this sheet===
*The 1326 part assume that there will be the same amount of players going for every chip (1326 possible hands)(22100 with 3 cards hand)
*The 91 part assume that there will be an equal amount of combinaisons for every chip (91 combinaisons)(455 with 3 cards hand)
*5 = top, 1 = bottom.
*'''Timing cues:''' Quick pick = stronger; taking time or returning a chip = weaker. Use timing as secondary confirmation only.
*'''Use chip takes to correct misorders''' rather than arguing.
*ph=possible hands, c=combinaisons
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!3 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|16.67%
|median 1 hand
|7/5
|7/6
|10/4/2
|10/8/5
|-
|33.33%
|between 1/2 chips
|9/8
|10/3
|J/10/5
|Q/10/4
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 2 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|66.67%
|between 2/3 chips
|K/2
|K/6
|A/7/2
|3/3/7
|-
|83.33%
|median 3 hand
|A/5
|A/10
|2/2/7
|9/9/J
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!4 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|12,5%
|median 1 hand
| colspan="2" |7/2
|10/5/5
|9/8/7
|-
|25%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/7
|9/2
|J/4/3
|J/10/2
|-
|37.5%
|median 2 hand
|10/5
|10/7
|Q/6/5
|K/5/3
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 2/3 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|62,5%
|median 3 hand
|Q/8
|K/2
|K/Q/7
|A/K/10
|-
|75%
|between 3/4 chips
|K/9
|A/3
|A/J/4
|6/6/9
|-
|87,5%
|median 4 hand
|A/8
|2/2
|5/5/10
|J/J/5
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!5 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|10%
|median 1 hand
| colspan="2" |6/4
|8/7/6
|9/6/5
|-
|20%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/3
|8/4
|10/7/5
|J/5/4
|-
|30%
|median 2 hand
|9/5
|9/7
|J/8/6
|Q/8/2
|-
|40%
|between 2/3 chips
|10/7
|10/9
|Q/8/5
|K/8/2
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 3 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|60%
|between 3/4 chips
|Q/6
|Q/10
|K/J/8
|A/Q/8
|-
|70%
|median 4 hand
|K/5
|K/9
|A/9/2
|4/4/10
|-
|80%
|between 4/5 chips
|A/2
|A/7
|A/K/3
|8/8/6
|-
|90%
|median 5 hand
|A/10
|4/4
|7/7/9
|Q/Q/4
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!6 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|8,33%
|median 1 hand
| colspan="2" |6/2
|8/6/4
|9/4/2
|-
|16,67%
|between 1/2 chips
|7/5
|7/6
|10/4/2
|10/8/5
|-
|25%
|median 2 hand
|8/7
|9/2
|J/4/3
|J/10/2
|-
|33,33%
|between 2/3 chips
|9/8
|10/3
|J/10/5
|Q/10/4
|-
|41,67%
|median 3 hand
|10/8
|J/2
|Q/9/4
|K/9/4
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 3/4 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|58,33%
|median 4 hand
|Q/5
|Q/9
|K/J/2
|A/J/10
|-
|66,67%
|between 4/5 chips
|K/2
|K/6
|A/7/2
|3/3/7
|-
|75%
|median 5 hand
|K/9
|A/3
|A/J/4
|6/6/9
|-
|83,33%
|between 5/6 chips
|A/5
|A/10
|2/2/7
|9/9/J
|-
|91,67%
|median 6 hand
|A/J
|6/6
|8/8/Q
|Q/Q/K
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}

== Double pairs on the table (and single pair) ==
When there is two pairs on the table, and you hit nothing, only your highest card count.

That mean per example with a board JJ447, and you having A6, you can play that hand as if it was A2. That mean that if there was a fight earlier and you suspect someone else having better than you, you can play your hand as if it was A2 instead of A6. If that player got A8 or KQ, they could react differently.

In that same example if you got 62, you can take the lowest chip even if you highly suspect someone else has lower than you, because your hand will be JJ447 anyway.

But the most important thing is '''pocket pairs'''. If you got 22, and the second 4 arrived in the river, then '''while your hand was probably the best one pre flop''', still was good post flop and after the turn, '''it became the worst one after the river''' because you don't have a triple pair, you have the lowest possible hand: JJ447. That mean that an 82 which probably took 1 or 2 pre flop is now beating you. And so you should fight for the 1 and insist a lot since it's often not obvious for others players.

If you didn't understood that, you take your best 5 cards to create your hand. That mean that AJ99752 has the same value than AJ99743: they both use AJ997 to do their best hand.

If there is no pair on the board, and you have two pairs, then you should be high. When an unrelated pair come in the flop, now everyone which previously got one pair got the same combinaison than you (or 3 of a kind). That mean that now you should rank yourself as the best of your two pairs, which could mean going down even if others didn't improved.

== 4 cards of the same color on the table ==
'Obviously' on that kind of board, what you should be doing shift completely. Per example with 4 diamonds, we now ask you to rank yourself from the highest diamond card to the lowest diamond card. A hand with an Ace of spade and a 2 of diamond is now weaker than a 4 of spade and a 3 of diamond.

You first should put attention to which player potentially have 2 diamonds on their hand, it's more likely than their highest diamond card is high.

And then pay attention to potential flush house and straight, and good luck, it's like a situational pre flop situation.

If you hit nothing, don't hesitate to goes really low.

Tips thegang

2026-05-24T14:55:37Z

Romain672: /* Full range and average hand pre-flop */ lol, let's change it again

''The following tips aren’t set-in-stone rules, but are meant to give you an idea of how communication works in this game. As a group, figure out for yourselves how you’d like to communicate best without discussing your hand.''

Do not be afraid to '''take chips away''' from other players. This is exactly how you communicate the quality of your own hand and help others to categorize you. The more the chips move, the more communication takes place.

Always evaluate the '''current state''', not how good it might still become.
'''1st Phase''': Having a pair from the start: take a high number (and higher than your first chip), otherwise evaluate the rank of your High Card.
'''From 2nd Phase''': If something was revealed in this phase that increases your rating, take a higher (or at least equally high) chip than in the previous round. This allows fellow players to draw conclusions about your specific card values.
Conversely: If nothing fitting your hand was revealed, take a chip that is 1 lower. If then no one wants to indicate a hit with a higher chip, you can return to the evaluation of the previous round.

== Introduction ==
This is a concise ''pre‑flop strategy guide'' for ''The Gang'' focused on **rank‑only** pre‑flop chip selection. It defines a simple, repeatable convention for mapping numbered chips to rank percentiles, explains why the convention helps, clarifies how '''Ace‑high''' hands should be placed so both charts work smoothly, and provides two separate, actionable mapping options you can adopt at the table.

== Core conventions to adopt ==
* '''Establish a ranking convention.''' Map each chip number to a clear percentile bucket so everyone interprets chip choices the same way.
* '''Conservative default.''' On the pre‑flop stage, default to slightly conservative picks and only escalate when community cards materially change the actual hand strength.
* '''Controlled chip theft.''' Taking another player’s chip is the only legal private signal—use it to correct obvious misrankings, not to bluff.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.''' Pre‑flop picks are based on ranks only; suitedness and flush/straight potential are ignored for the initial ranking.
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking a chip quickly signals a stronger rank; taking time to pick a chip, or picking then returning a chip, signals a weaker rank.
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.''' Base your pre‑flop chip choice exclusively on the two ranks in your hand.

== Why a percentile convention helps ==
* '''Reduces ambiguity.''' Percentiles let players interpret rankings consistently.
* '''Makes steals informative.''' A chip take becomes a clear corrective statement about percentile.
* '''Improves planning.'''
** ''' Schedule Specialists and Challenges ''' deliberately because you know which percentile buckets are likely to win or lose across rounds.
** ''' Budget risk ''' by tracking how many top‑bucket rank outcomes remain and deciding when to spend a Specialist or accept a Challenge.
** ''' Assign informal roles ''' based on predictable chip distributions.
** ''' Make corrective plays efficient: ''' a chip take can reallocate risk and reduce disputes.

== Pre‑flop decision rules (rank‑only) ==
* '''Pairs are one group.''' Treat any pocket pair as a single pre‑flop signal category for the initial chip pick.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.'''
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.'''
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking quickly = stronger; taking time = weaker.
* '''No talk; use takes to correct.'''
* '''Conservative default for speculative hands.'''
* The median hand is exactly J7.

== Simple interpertation pre flop for 5 players: ==
When suits are ignored, here is what all chips initially have (you have the exact hand at the middle of the page):
{| class="wikitable"
!Chips
!Group
|-
|5
|Pairs / A high
|-
|4
|K / Q high
|-
|3
|Q low / J high
|-
|2
|10/9/8 high
|-
|1
|7 high
|}

== Post flop advices ==
When hitting a double pair or better fight for the highest token. After someone steal it twice/thrice from you re-evaluate the board to look for potential straight/flushes (note that some straight are impossible from the first chip choice). Then evaluate for the bottom double pair or high one.

When having a pocket hand pair pre flop higher than all value on the table, fight for the highest token.

When hitting top pair (the pair from the highest value on the table) take the highest token. You could insist once depending of first chip choice.

When hitting middle pair, take the second highest token if that's an increase from the first round. If it's the same value or below, wait for others choices. Note that it's possible that you took the highest token twice. On that case, others doesn't know you hit a pair, and you should take in consideration for future rounds.

When hitting bottom pair, wait for others choices, and then put yourself the lowest between those which improved.

When hitting nothing take the 1/2 token or one or two below your first chip.

== Turn and River advices ==
That card start to be really situationnal.

If that new card open straight and flushes, nearly any hand could goes for the highest chip immediately. Even if you got a double pair you should be careful about fighting for this highest token. Take into consideration how many straight and flushes there is. If it's really few (1 or 2) then the player which hit those should insist a lot for the highest token. That mean with a slightly weaker hand (like double pair) you could try to insist for 6. On the contrary if there is lots of straight and flushes (4 or 9+), take a lower chip more easily.

If that new card is above all others cards a new pair most likely put yourself as the best or second best hand, so take a really high chip.

If that new card is around the same value of others, take an higher chip, and let others decide where they put yourself. They know which pair you got but you don't know which pair they got.

If that new card is below all others cards, put yourself as the higher chip between those which never improved.

Note that pocket pairs can rank weirdly.

Finallya at the River, the nuts (highest possible hand) should insist a lot for the highest token since there is nothing to lose. Knowing that, the second best hand can do the same. The third best hand can do the same but show weakness once after the fight while still showing they want the best token. Going lower than that is much trickier, especially for flushes board.

== Correcting mistakes ==
If you or someone else made a mistake that can easily be confusing.

It can be corrected naturally by someone hitting a pair, or even rarely with two pockets pairs by someone else hitting a pair.

If it's obvious what is happening you could try to correct it immediately (post flop), especially if there was some fight pre flop.

But I would advise you to let everything goes as planned, and in the final turn, still take your normal chip if the river can be confusing, and after everyone is happy with their chip, fight for the potential mistake which happened earlier. That's because when doing that, it look like to others that you hit a pair, which is extremely confusing.

==Full range and average hand pre-flop ==
This cheat sheet map recommended pre‑flop chips depending of the number of players. Use this at the table as a compact reference. Pairs are above all. All picks are '''rank‑only''' (no suits). Connector (7&8 of diamond) has no value.

''Note that even if the numbers are mathematiquely coherent, since pairs can often more easily be differenciated from A high, you could want to lower slightly the highest range. And I'm unsure the range should be uniform, maybe the range from the outside should be bigger.''

Finally, note that this sheet is only without context. It's great to know where you should put your hand initially. As soon as some player(s) take any chip(s), the value of that sheet fall pretty fast.

===How to read this sheet===
*The 1326 part assume that there will be the same amount of players going for every chip (1326 possible hands)(22100 with 3 cards hand)
*The 91 part assume that there will be an equal amount of combinaisons for every chip (91 combinaisons)(455 with 3 cards hand)
*5 = top, 1 = bottom.
*'''Timing cues:''' Quick pick = stronger; taking time or returning a chip = weaker. Use timing as secondary confirmation only.
*'''Use chip takes to correct misorders''' rather than arguing.
*ph=possible hands, c=combinaisons
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!3 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards hand / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|16.67%
|median 1 hand
|7/5
|7/6
|10/4/2
|10/8/5
|-
|33.33%
|between 1/2 chips
|9/8
|10/3
|J/10/5
|Q/10/4
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 2 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|66.67%
|between 2/3 chips
|K/2
|K/6
|A/7/2
|3/3/7
|-
|83.33%
|median 3 hand
|A/5
|A/10
|2/2/7
|9/9/J
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!4 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards hand / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|12,5%
|median 1 hand
| colspan="2" |7/2
|10/5/5
|9/8/7
|-
|25%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/7
|9/2
|J/4/3
|J/10/2
|-
|37.5%
|median 2 hand
|10/5
|10/7
|Q/6/5
|K/5/3
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 2/3 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|62,5%
|median 3 hand
|Q/8
|K/2
|K/Q/7
|A/K/10
|-
|75%
|between 3/4 chips
|K/9
|A/3
|A/J/4
|6/6/9
|-
|87,5%
|median 4 hand
|A/8
|2/2
|5/5/10
|J/J/5
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!5 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards hand / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|10%
|median 1 hand
| colspan="2" |6/4
|8/7/6
|9/6/5
|-
|20%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/3
|8/4
|10/7/5
|J/5/4
|-
|30%
|median 2 hand
|9/5
|9/7
|J/8/6
|Q/8/2
|-
|40%
|between 2/3 chips
|10/7
|10/9
|Q/8/5
|K/8/2
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 3 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|60%
|between 3/4 chips
|Q/6
|Q/10
|K/J/8
|A/Q/8
|-
|70%
|median 4 hand
|K/5
|K/9
|A/9/2
|4/4/10
|-
|80%
|between 4/5 chips
|A/2
|A/7
|A/K/3
|8/8/6
|-
|90%
|median 5 hand
|A/10
|4/4
|7/7/9
|Q/Q/4
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!6 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards hand / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|8,33%
|median 1 hand
| colspan="2" |6/2
|8/6/4
|9/4/2
|-
|16,67%
|between 1/2 chips
|7/5
|7/6
|10/4/2
|10/8/5
|-
|25%
|median 2 hand
|8/7
|9/2
|J/4/3
|J/10/2
|-
|33,33%
|between 2/3 chips
|9/8
|10/3
|J/10/5
|Q/10/4
|-
|41,67%
|median 3 hand
|10/8
|J/2
|Q/9/4
|K/9/4
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 3/4 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|58,33%
|median 4 hand
|Q/5
|Q/9
|K/J/2
|A/J/10
|-
|66,67%
|between 4/5 chips
|K/2
|K/6
|A/7/2
|3/3/7
|-
|75%
|median 5 hand
|K/9
|A/3
|A/J/4
|6/6/9
|-
|83,33%
|between 5/6 chips
|A/5
|A/10
|2/2/7
|9/9/J
|-
|91,67%
|median 6 hand
|A/J
|6/6
|8/8/Q
|Q/Q/K
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}

== Double pairs on the table (and single pair) ==
When there is two pairs on the table, and you hit nothing, only your highest card count.

That mean per example with a board JJ447, and you having A6, you can play that hand as if it was A2. That mean that if there was a fight earlier and you suspect someone else having better than you, you can play your hand as if it was A2 instead of A6. If that player got A8 or KQ, they could react differently.

In that same example if you got 62, you can take the lowest chip even if you highly suspect someone else has lower than you, because your hand will be JJ447 anyway.

But the most important thing is '''pocket pairs'''. If you got 22, and the second 4 arrived in the river, then '''while your hand was probably the best one pre flop''', still was good post flop and after the turn, '''it became the worst one after the river''' because you don't have a triple pair, you have the lowest possible hand: JJ447. That mean that an 82 which probably took 1 or 2 pre flop is now beating you. And so you should fight for the 1 and insist a lot since it's often not obvious for others players.

If you didn't understood that, you take your best 5 cards to create your hand. That mean that AJ99752 has the same value than AJ99743: they both use AJ997 to do their best hand.

If there is no pair on the board, and you have two pairs, then you should be high. When an unrelated pair come in the flop, now everyone which previously got one pair got the same combinaison than you (or 3 of a kind). That mean that now you should rank yourself as the best of your two pairs, which could mean going down even if others didn't improved.

== 4 cards of the same color on the table ==
'Obviously' on that kind of board, what you should be doing shift completely. Per example with 4 diamonds, we now ask you to rank yourself from the highest diamond card to the lowest diamond card. A hand with an Ace of spade and a 2 of diamond is now weaker than a 4 of spade and a 3 of diamond.

You first should put attention to which player potentially have 2 diamonds on their hand, it's more likely than their highest diamond card is high.

And then pay attention to potential flush house and straight, and good luck, it's like a situational pre flop situation.

If you hit nothing, don't hesitate to goes really low.

Tips thegang

2026-05-24T14:51:05Z

Romain672: /* How to read this sheet */

''The following tips aren’t set-in-stone rules, but are meant to give you an idea of how communication works in this game. As a group, figure out for yourselves how you’d like to communicate best without discussing your hand.''

Do not be afraid to '''take chips away''' from other players. This is exactly how you communicate the quality of your own hand and help others to categorize you. The more the chips move, the more communication takes place.

Always evaluate the '''current state''', not how good it might still become.
'''1st Phase''': Having a pair from the start: take a high number (and higher than your first chip), otherwise evaluate the rank of your High Card.
'''From 2nd Phase''': If something was revealed in this phase that increases your rating, take a higher (or at least equally high) chip than in the previous round. This allows fellow players to draw conclusions about your specific card values.
Conversely: If nothing fitting your hand was revealed, take a chip that is 1 lower. If then no one wants to indicate a hit with a higher chip, you can return to the evaluation of the previous round.

== Introduction ==
This is a concise ''pre‑flop strategy guide'' for ''The Gang'' focused on **rank‑only** pre‑flop chip selection. It defines a simple, repeatable convention for mapping numbered chips to rank percentiles, explains why the convention helps, clarifies how '''Ace‑high''' hands should be placed so both charts work smoothly, and provides two separate, actionable mapping options you can adopt at the table.

== Core conventions to adopt ==
* '''Establish a ranking convention.''' Map each chip number to a clear percentile bucket so everyone interprets chip choices the same way.
* '''Conservative default.''' On the pre‑flop stage, default to slightly conservative picks and only escalate when community cards materially change the actual hand strength.
* '''Controlled chip theft.''' Taking another player’s chip is the only legal private signal—use it to correct obvious misrankings, not to bluff.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.''' Pre‑flop picks are based on ranks only; suitedness and flush/straight potential are ignored for the initial ranking.
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking a chip quickly signals a stronger rank; taking time to pick a chip, or picking then returning a chip, signals a weaker rank.
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.''' Base your pre‑flop chip choice exclusively on the two ranks in your hand.

== Why a percentile convention helps ==
* '''Reduces ambiguity.''' Percentiles let players interpret rankings consistently.
* '''Makes steals informative.''' A chip take becomes a clear corrective statement about percentile.
* '''Improves planning.'''
** ''' Schedule Specialists and Challenges ''' deliberately because you know which percentile buckets are likely to win or lose across rounds.
** ''' Budget risk ''' by tracking how many top‑bucket rank outcomes remain and deciding when to spend a Specialist or accept a Challenge.
** ''' Assign informal roles ''' based on predictable chip distributions.
** ''' Make corrective plays efficient: ''' a chip take can reallocate risk and reduce disputes.

== Pre‑flop decision rules (rank‑only) ==
* '''Pairs are one group.''' Treat any pocket pair as a single pre‑flop signal category for the initial chip pick.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.'''
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.'''
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking quickly = stronger; taking time = weaker.
* '''No talk; use takes to correct.'''
* '''Conservative default for speculative hands.'''
* The median hand is exactly J7.

== Simple interpertation pre flop for 5 players: ==
When suits are ignored, here is what all chips initially have (you have the exact hand at the middle of the page):
{| class="wikitable"
!Chips
!Group
|-
|5
|Pairs / A high
|-
|4
|K / Q high
|-
|3
|Q low / J high
|-
|2
|10/9/8 high
|-
|1
|7 high
|}

== Post flop advices ==
When hitting a double pair or better fight for the highest token. After someone steal it twice/thrice from you re-evaluate the board to look for potential straight/flushes (note that some straight are impossible from the first chip choice). Then evaluate for the bottom double pair or high one.

When having a pocket hand pair pre flop higher than all value on the table, fight for the highest token.

When hitting top pair (the pair from the highest value on the table) take the highest token. You could insist once depending of first chip choice.

When hitting middle pair, take the second highest token if that's an increase from the first round. If it's the same value or below, wait for others choices. Note that it's possible that you took the highest token twice. On that case, others doesn't know you hit a pair, and you should take in consideration for future rounds.

When hitting bottom pair, wait for others choices, and then put yourself the lowest between those which improved.

When hitting nothing take the 1/2 token or one or two below your first chip.

== Turn and River advices ==
That card start to be really situationnal.

If that new card open straight and flushes, nearly any hand could goes for the highest chip immediately. Even if you got a double pair you should be careful about fighting for this highest token. Take into consideration how many straight and flushes there is. If it's really few (1 or 2) then the player which hit those should insist a lot for the highest token. That mean with a slightly weaker hand (like double pair) you could try to insist for 6. On the contrary if there is lots of straight and flushes (4 or 9+), take a lower chip more easily.

If that new card is above all others cards a new pair most likely put yourself as the best or second best hand, so take a really high chip.

If that new card is around the same value of others, take an higher chip, and let others decide where they put yourself. They know which pair you got but you don't know which pair they got.

If that new card is below all others cards, put yourself as the higher chip between those which never improved.

Note that pocket pairs can rank weirdly.

Finallya at the River, the nuts (highest possible hand) should insist a lot for the highest token since there is nothing to lose. Knowing that, the second best hand can do the same. The third best hand can do the same but show weakness once after the fight while still showing they want the best token. Going lower than that is much trickier, especially for flushes board.

== Correcting mistakes ==
If you or someone else made a mistake that can easily be confusing.

It can be corrected naturally by someone hitting a pair, or even rarely with two pockets pairs by someone else hitting a pair.

If it's obvious what is happening you could try to correct it immediately (post flop), especially if there was some fight pre flop.

But I would advise you to let everything goes as planned, and in the final turn, still take your normal chip if the river can be confusing, and after everyone is happy with their chip, fight for the potential mistake which happened earlier. That's because when doing that, it look like to others that you hit a pair, which is extremely confusing.

==Full range and average hand pre-flop ==
This cheat sheet map recommended pre‑flop chips depending of the number of players. Use this at the table as a compact reference. Pairs are above all. All picks are '''rank‑only''' (no suits). Connector (7&8 of diamond) has no value.

''Note that even if the numbers are mathematiquely coherent, since pairs can often more easily be differenciated from A high, you could want to lower slightly the highest range. And I'm unsure the range should be uniform, maybe the range from the outside should be bigger.''

Finally, note that this sheet is only without context. It's great to know where you should put your hand initially. As soon as some player(s) take any chip(s), the value of that sheet fall pretty fast.

===How to read this sheet===
*The 1326 part assume that there will be the same amount of players going for every chip (1326 possible hands)(22100 with 3 cards hand)
*The 91 part assume that there will be an equal amount of combinaisons for every chip (91 combinaisons)(455 with 3 cards hand)
*5 = top, 1 = bottom.
*'''Timing cues:''' Quick pick = stronger; taking time or returning a chip = weaker. Use timing as secondary confirmation only.
*'''Use chip takes to correct misorders''' rather than arguing.
*ph=possible hands, c=combinaisons
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!3 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards hand / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|16.67%
|median 1 hand
|7/5
|7/6
|10/4/2
|10/8/5
|-
|33.33%
|between 1/2 chips
|9/8
|10/3
|J/10/5
|Q/10/4
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 2 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|66.67%
|between 2/3 chips
|K/2
|K/6
|A/7/2
|3/3/7
|-
|83.33%
|median 3 hand
|A/5
|A/10
|2/2/7
|9/9/J
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!4 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards hand / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|12,5%
|median 1 hand
| colspan="2" |7/2
|10/5/5
|9/8/7
|-
|25%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/7
|9/2
|J/4/3
|J/10/2
|-
|37.5%
|median 2 hand
|10/5
|10/7
|Q/6/5
|K/5/3
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 2/3 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|62,5%
|median 3 hand
|Q/8
|K/2
|K/Q/7
|A/K/10
|-
|75%
|between 3/4 chips
|K/9
|A/3
|A/J/4
|6/6/9
|-
|87,5%
|median 4 hand
|A/8
|2/2
|5/5/10
|J/J/5
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!5 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards hand / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|10%
|median 1 hand
| colspan="2" |6/4
|8/7/6
|9/6/5
|-
|20%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/3
|8/4
|10/7/5
|J/5/4
|-
|30%
|median 2 hand
|9/5
|9/7
|J/8/6
|Q/8/2
|-
|40%
|between 2/3 chips
|10/7
|10/9
|Q/8/5
|K/8/2
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 3 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|60%
|between 3/4 chips
|Q/6
|Q/10
|K/J/8
|A/Q/8
|-
|70%
|median 4 hand
|K/5
|K/9
|A/9/2
|4/4/10
|-
|80%
|between 4/5 chips
|A/2
|A/7
|A/K/3
|8/8/6
|-
|90%
|median 5 hand
|A/10
|4/4
|7/7/9
|Q/Q/4
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!6 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards hand / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|8,33%
|median 1 hand
| colspan="2" |6/2
|8/6/4
|9/4/2
|-
|16,67%
|between 1/2 chips
|7/5
|7/6
|10/4/2
|10/8/5
|-
|25%
|median 2 hand
|8/7
|9/2
|J/4/3
|J/10/2
|-
|33,33%
|between 2/3 chips
|9/8
|10/3
|J/10/5
|Q/10/4
|-
|41,67%
|median 3 hand
|10/8
|J/2
|Q/9/4
|Q/9/4
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 3/4 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|58,33%
|median 4 hand
|Q/5
|Q/9
|K/J/2
|A/J/10
|-
|66,67%
|between 4/5 chips
|K/2
|K/6
|A/7/2
|3/3/7
|-
|75%
|median 5 hand
|K/9
|A/3
|A/J/4
|6/6/9
|-
|83,33%
|between 5/6 chips
|A/5
|A/10
|2/2/7
|9/9/J
|-
|91,67%
|median 6 hand
|A/J
|6/6
|8/8/Q
|Q/Q/K
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}

== Double pairs on the table (and single pair) ==
When there is two pairs on the table, and you hit nothing, only your highest card count.

That mean per example with a board JJ447, and you having A6, you can play that hand as if it was A2. That mean that if there was a fight earlier and you suspect someone else having better than you, you can play your hand as if it was A2 instead of A6. If that player got A8 or KQ, they could react differently.

In that same example if you got 62, you can take the lowest chip even if you highly suspect someone else has lower than you, because your hand will be JJ447 anyway.

But the most important thing is '''pocket pairs'''. If you got 22, and the second 4 arrived in the river, then '''while your hand was probably the best one pre flop''', still was good post flop and after the turn, '''it became the worst one after the river''' because you don't have a triple pair, you have the lowest possible hand: JJ447. That mean that an 82 which probably took 1 or 2 pre flop is now beating you. And so you should fight for the 1 and insist a lot since it's often not obvious for others players.

If you didn't understood that, you take your best 5 cards to create your hand. That mean that AJ99752 has the same value than AJ99743: they both use AJ997 to do their best hand.

If there is no pair on the board, and you have two pairs, then you should be high. When an unrelated pair come in the flop, now everyone which previously got one pair got the same combinaison than you (or 3 of a kind). That mean that now you should rank yourself as the best of your two pairs, which could mean going down even if others didn't improved.

== 4 cards of the same color on the table ==
'Obviously' on that kind of board, what you should be doing shift completely. Per example with 4 diamonds, we now ask you to rank yourself from the highest diamond card to the lowest diamond card. A hand with an Ace of spade and a 2 of diamond is now weaker than a 4 of spade and a 3 of diamond.

You first should put attention to which player potentially have 2 diamonds on their hand, it's more likely than their highest diamond card is high.

And then pay attention to potential flush house and straight, and good luck, it's like a situational pre flop situation.

If you hit nothing, don't hesitate to goes really low.

Tips thegang

2026-05-24T14:50:12Z

Romain672: /* How to read this sheet */ changed the name of columns of the sheets

''The following tips aren’t set-in-stone rules, but are meant to give you an idea of how communication works in this game. As a group, figure out for yourselves how you’d like to communicate best without discussing your hand.''

Do not be afraid to '''take chips away''' from other players. This is exactly how you communicate the quality of your own hand and help others to categorize you. The more the chips move, the more communication takes place.

Always evaluate the '''current state''', not how good it might still become.
'''1st Phase''': Having a pair from the start: take a high number (and higher than your first chip), otherwise evaluate the rank of your High Card.
'''From 2nd Phase''': If something was revealed in this phase that increases your rating, take a higher (or at least equally high) chip than in the previous round. This allows fellow players to draw conclusions about your specific card values.
Conversely: If nothing fitting your hand was revealed, take a chip that is 1 lower. If then no one wants to indicate a hit with a higher chip, you can return to the evaluation of the previous round.

== Introduction ==
This is a concise ''pre‑flop strategy guide'' for ''The Gang'' focused on **rank‑only** pre‑flop chip selection. It defines a simple, repeatable convention for mapping numbered chips to rank percentiles, explains why the convention helps, clarifies how '''Ace‑high''' hands should be placed so both charts work smoothly, and provides two separate, actionable mapping options you can adopt at the table.

== Core conventions to adopt ==
* '''Establish a ranking convention.''' Map each chip number to a clear percentile bucket so everyone interprets chip choices the same way.
* '''Conservative default.''' On the pre‑flop stage, default to slightly conservative picks and only escalate when community cards materially change the actual hand strength.
* '''Controlled chip theft.''' Taking another player’s chip is the only legal private signal—use it to correct obvious misrankings, not to bluff.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.''' Pre‑flop picks are based on ranks only; suitedness and flush/straight potential are ignored for the initial ranking.
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking a chip quickly signals a stronger rank; taking time to pick a chip, or picking then returning a chip, signals a weaker rank.
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.''' Base your pre‑flop chip choice exclusively on the two ranks in your hand.

== Why a percentile convention helps ==
* '''Reduces ambiguity.''' Percentiles let players interpret rankings consistently.
* '''Makes steals informative.''' A chip take becomes a clear corrective statement about percentile.
* '''Improves planning.'''
** ''' Schedule Specialists and Challenges ''' deliberately because you know which percentile buckets are likely to win or lose across rounds.
** ''' Budget risk ''' by tracking how many top‑bucket rank outcomes remain and deciding when to spend a Specialist or accept a Challenge.
** ''' Assign informal roles ''' based on predictable chip distributions.
** ''' Make corrective plays efficient: ''' a chip take can reallocate risk and reduce disputes.

== Pre‑flop decision rules (rank‑only) ==
* '''Pairs are one group.''' Treat any pocket pair as a single pre‑flop signal category for the initial chip pick.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.'''
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.'''
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking quickly = stronger; taking time = weaker.
* '''No talk; use takes to correct.'''
* '''Conservative default for speculative hands.'''
* The median hand is exactly J7.

== Simple interpertation pre flop for 5 players: ==
When suits are ignored, here is what all chips initially have (you have the exact hand at the middle of the page):
{| class="wikitable"
!Chips
!Group
|-
|5
|Pairs / A high
|-
|4
|K / Q high
|-
|3
|Q low / J high
|-
|2
|10/9/8 high
|-
|1
|7 high
|}

== Post flop advices ==
When hitting a double pair or better fight for the highest token. After someone steal it twice/thrice from you re-evaluate the board to look for potential straight/flushes (note that some straight are impossible from the first chip choice). Then evaluate for the bottom double pair or high one.

When having a pocket hand pair pre flop higher than all value on the table, fight for the highest token.

When hitting top pair (the pair from the highest value on the table) take the highest token. You could insist once depending of first chip choice.

When hitting middle pair, take the second highest token if that's an increase from the first round. If it's the same value or below, wait for others choices. Note that it's possible that you took the highest token twice. On that case, others doesn't know you hit a pair, and you should take in consideration for future rounds.

When hitting bottom pair, wait for others choices, and then put yourself the lowest between those which improved.

When hitting nothing take the 1/2 token or one or two below your first chip.

== Turn and River advices ==
That card start to be really situationnal.

If that new card open straight and flushes, nearly any hand could goes for the highest chip immediately. Even if you got a double pair you should be careful about fighting for this highest token. Take into consideration how many straight and flushes there is. If it's really few (1 or 2) then the player which hit those should insist a lot for the highest token. That mean with a slightly weaker hand (like double pair) you could try to insist for 6. On the contrary if there is lots of straight and flushes (4 or 9+), take a lower chip more easily.

If that new card is above all others cards a new pair most likely put yourself as the best or second best hand, so take a really high chip.

If that new card is around the same value of others, take an higher chip, and let others decide where they put yourself. They know which pair you got but you don't know which pair they got.

If that new card is below all others cards, put yourself as the higher chip between those which never improved.

Note that pocket pairs can rank weirdly.

Finallya at the River, the nuts (highest possible hand) should insist a lot for the highest token since there is nothing to lose. Knowing that, the second best hand can do the same. The third best hand can do the same but show weakness once after the fight while still showing they want the best token. Going lower than that is much trickier, especially for flushes board.

== Correcting mistakes ==
If you or someone else made a mistake that can easily be confusing.

It can be corrected naturally by someone hitting a pair, or even rarely with two pockets pairs by someone else hitting a pair.

If it's obvious what is happening you could try to correct it immediately (post flop), especially if there was some fight pre flop.

But I would advise you to let everything goes as planned, and in the final turn, still take your normal chip if the river can be confusing, and after everyone is happy with their chip, fight for the potential mistake which happened earlier. That's because when doing that, it look like to others that you hit a pair, which is extremely confusing.

==Full range and average hand pre-flop ==
This cheat sheet map recommended pre‑flop chips depending of the number of players. Use this at the table as a compact reference. Pairs are above all. All picks are '''rank‑only''' (no suits). Connector (7&8 of diamond) has no value.

''Note that even if the numbers are mathematiquely coherent, since pairs can often more easily be differenciated from A high, you could want to lower slightly the highest range. And I'm unsure the range should be uniform, maybe the range from the outside should be bigger.''

Finally, note that this sheet is only without context. It's great to know where you should put your hand initially. As soon as some player(s) take any chip(s), the value of that sheet fall pretty fast.

===How to read this sheet===
*The 1326 part assume that there will be the same amount of players going for every chip (1326 possible hands)(22100 with 3 cards hand)
*The 91 part assume that there will be an equal amount of combinaisons for every chip (91 combinaisons)(455 with 3 cards hand)
*5 = top, 1 = bottom.
*'''Timing cues:''' Quick pick = stronger; taking time or returning a chip = weaker. Use timing as secondary confirmation only.
*'''Use chip takes to correct misorders''' rather than arguing.
*ph=possible hands, c=combinaisons, ph=possible hands
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!3 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards hand / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|16.67%
|median 1 hand
|7/5
|7/6
|10/4/2
|10/8/5
|-
|33.33%
|between 1/2 chips
|9/8
|10/3
|J/10/5
|Q/10/4
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 2 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|66.67%
|between 2/3 chips
|K/2
|K/6
|A/7/2
|3/3/7
|-
|83.33%
|median 3 hand
|A/5
|A/10
|2/2/7
|9/9/J
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!4 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards hand / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|12,5%
|median 1 hand
| colspan="2" |7/2
|10/5/5
|9/8/7
|-
|25%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/7
|9/2
|J/4/3
|J/10/2
|-
|37.5%
|median 2 hand
|10/5
|10/7
|Q/6/5
|K/5/3
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 2/3 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|62,5%
|median 3 hand
|Q/8
|K/2
|K/Q/7
|A/K/10
|-
|75%
|between 3/4 chips
|K/9
|A/3
|A/J/4
|6/6/9
|-
|87,5%
|median 4 hand
|A/8
|2/2
|5/5/10
|J/J/5
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!5 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards hand / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|10%
|median 1 hand
| colspan="2" |6/4
|8/7/6
|9/6/5
|-
|20%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/3
|8/4
|10/7/5
|J/5/4
|-
|30%
|median 2 hand
|9/5
|9/7
|J/8/6
|Q/8/2
|-
|40%
|between 2/3 chips
|10/7
|10/9
|Q/8/5
|K/8/2
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 3 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|60%
|between 3/4 chips
|Q/6
|Q/10
|K/J/8
|A/Q/8
|-
|70%
|median 4 hand
|K/5
|K/9
|A/9/2
|4/4/10
|-
|80%
|between 4/5 chips
|A/2
|A/7
|A/K/3
|8/8/6
|-
|90%
|median 5 hand
|A/10
|4/4
|7/7/9
|Q/Q/4
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!6 players
!
!2 cards / 1326 ph
!2 cards / 91 c
!3 cards / 22100 ph
!3 cards hand / 455 c
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|8,33%
|median 1 hand
| colspan="2" |6/2
|8/6/4
|9/4/2
|-
|16,67%
|between 1/2 chips
|7/5
|7/6
|10/4/2
|10/8/5
|-
|25%
|median 2 hand
|8/7
|9/2
|J/4/3
|J/10/2
|-
|33,33%
|between 2/3 chips
|9/8
|10/3
|J/10/5
|Q/10/4
|-
|41,67%
|median 3 hand
|10/8
|J/2
|Q/9/4
|Q/9/4
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 3/4 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|58,33%
|median 4 hand
|Q/5
|Q/9
|K/J/2
|A/J/10
|-
|66,67%
|between 4/5 chips
|K/2
|K/6
|A/7/2
|3/3/7
|-
|75%
|median 5 hand
|K/9
|A/3
|A/J/4
|6/6/9
|-
|83,33%
|between 5/6 chips
|A/5
|A/10
|2/2/7
|9/9/J
|-
|91,67%
|median 6 hand
|A/J
|6/6
|8/8/Q
|Q/Q/K
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}

== Double pairs on the table (and single pair) ==
When there is two pairs on the table, and you hit nothing, only your highest card count.

That mean per example with a board JJ447, and you having A6, you can play that hand as if it was A2. That mean that if there was a fight earlier and you suspect someone else having better than you, you can play your hand as if it was A2 instead of A6. If that player got A8 or KQ, they could react differently.

In that same example if you got 62, you can take the lowest chip even if you highly suspect someone else has lower than you, because your hand will be JJ447 anyway.

But the most important thing is '''pocket pairs'''. If you got 22, and the second 4 arrived in the river, then '''while your hand was probably the best one pre flop''', still was good post flop and after the turn, '''it became the worst one after the river''' because you don't have a triple pair, you have the lowest possible hand: JJ447. That mean that an 82 which probably took 1 or 2 pre flop is now beating you. And so you should fight for the 1 and insist a lot since it's often not obvious for others players.

If you didn't understood that, you take your best 5 cards to create your hand. That mean that AJ99752 has the same value than AJ99743: they both use AJ997 to do their best hand.

If there is no pair on the board, and you have two pairs, then you should be high. When an unrelated pair come in the flop, now everyone which previously got one pair got the same combinaison than you (or 3 of a kind). That mean that now you should rank yourself as the best of your two pairs, which could mean going down even if others didn't improved.

== 4 cards of the same color on the table ==
'Obviously' on that kind of board, what you should be doing shift completely. Per example with 4 diamonds, we now ask you to rank yourself from the highest diamond card to the lowest diamond card. A hand with an Ace of spade and a 2 of diamond is now weaker than a 4 of spade and a 3 of diamond.

You first should put attention to which player potentially have 2 diamonds on their hand, it's more likely than their highest diamond card is high.

And then pay attention to potential flush house and straight, and good luck, it's like a situational pre flop situation.

If you hit nothing, don't hesitate to goes really low.

Tips thegang

2026-05-24T13:40:46Z

Romain672: /* Full range and average hand pre-flop */

''The following tips aren’t set-in-stone rules, but are meant to give you an idea of how communication works in this game. As a group, figure out for yourselves how you’d like to communicate best without discussing your hand.''

Do not be afraid to '''take chips away''' from other players. This is exactly how you communicate the quality of your own hand and help others to categorize you. The more the chips move, the more communication takes place.

Always evaluate the '''current state''', not how good it might still become.
'''1st Phase''': Having a pair from the start: take a high number (and higher than your first chip), otherwise evaluate the rank of your High Card.
'''From 2nd Phase''': If something was revealed in this phase that increases your rating, take a higher (or at least equally high) chip than in the previous round. This allows fellow players to draw conclusions about your specific card values.
Conversely: If nothing fitting your hand was revealed, take a chip that is 1 lower. If then no one wants to indicate a hit with a higher chip, you can return to the evaluation of the previous round.

== Introduction ==
This is a concise ''pre‑flop strategy guide'' for ''The Gang'' focused on **rank‑only** pre‑flop chip selection. It defines a simple, repeatable convention for mapping numbered chips to rank percentiles, explains why the convention helps, clarifies how '''Ace‑high''' hands should be placed so both charts work smoothly, and provides two separate, actionable mapping options you can adopt at the table.

== Core conventions to adopt ==
* '''Establish a ranking convention.''' Map each chip number to a clear percentile bucket so everyone interprets chip choices the same way.
* '''Conservative default.''' On the pre‑flop stage, default to slightly conservative picks and only escalate when community cards materially change the actual hand strength.
* '''Controlled chip theft.''' Taking another player’s chip is the only legal private signal—use it to correct obvious misrankings, not to bluff.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.''' Pre‑flop picks are based on ranks only; suitedness and flush/straight potential are ignored for the initial ranking.
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking a chip quickly signals a stronger rank; taking time to pick a chip, or picking then returning a chip, signals a weaker rank.
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.''' Base your pre‑flop chip choice exclusively on the two ranks in your hand.

== Why a percentile convention helps ==
* '''Reduces ambiguity.''' Percentiles let players interpret rankings consistently.
* '''Makes steals informative.''' A chip take becomes a clear corrective statement about percentile.
* '''Improves planning.'''
** ''' Schedule Specialists and Challenges ''' deliberately because you know which percentile buckets are likely to win or lose across rounds.
** ''' Budget risk ''' by tracking how many top‑bucket rank outcomes remain and deciding when to spend a Specialist or accept a Challenge.
** ''' Assign informal roles ''' based on predictable chip distributions.
** ''' Make corrective plays efficient: ''' a chip take can reallocate risk and reduce disputes.

== Pre‑flop decision rules (rank‑only) ==
* '''Pairs are one group.''' Treat any pocket pair as a single pre‑flop signal category for the initial chip pick.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.'''
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.'''
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking quickly = stronger; taking time = weaker.
* '''No talk; use takes to correct.'''
* '''Conservative default for speculative hands.'''
* The median hand is exactly J7.

== Simple interpertation pre flop for 5 players: ==
When suits are ignored, here is what all chips initially have (you have the exact hand at the middle of the page):
{| class="wikitable"
!Chips
!Group
|-
|5
|Pairs / A high
|-
|4
|K / Q high
|-
|3
|Q low / J high
|-
|2
|10/9/8 high
|-
|1
|7 high
|}

== Post flop advices ==
When hitting a double pair or better fight for the highest token. After someone steal it twice/thrice from you re-evaluate the board to look for potential straight/flushes (note that some straight are impossible from the first chip choice). Then evaluate for the bottom double pair or high one.

When having a pocket hand pair pre flop higher than all value on the table, fight for the highest token.

When hitting top pair (the pair from the highest value on the table) take the highest token. You could insist once depending of first chip choice.

When hitting middle pair, take the second highest token if that's an increase from the first round. If it's the same value or below, wait for others choices. Note that it's possible that you took the highest token twice. On that case, others doesn't know you hit a pair, and you should take in consideration for future rounds.

When hitting bottom pair, wait for others choices, and then put yourself the lowest between those which improved.

When hitting nothing take the 1/2 token or one or two below your first chip.

== Turn and River advices ==
That card start to be really situationnal.

If that new card open straight and flushes, nearly any hand could goes for the highest chip immediately. Even if you got a double pair you should be careful about fighting for this highest token. Take into consideration how many straight and flushes there is. If it's really few (1 or 2) then the player which hit those should insist a lot for the highest token. That mean with a slightly weaker hand (like double pair) you could try to insist for 6. On the contrary if there is lots of straight and flushes (4 or 9+), take a lower chip more easily.

If that new card is above all others cards a new pair most likely put yourself as the best or second best hand, so take a really high chip.

If that new card is around the same value of others, take an higher chip, and let others decide where they put yourself. They know which pair you got but you don't know which pair they got.

If that new card is below all others cards, put yourself as the higher chip between those which never improved.

Note that pocket pairs can rank weirdly.

Finallya at the River, the nuts (highest possible hand) should insist a lot for the highest token since there is nothing to lose. Knowing that, the second best hand can do the same. The third best hand can do the same but show weakness once after the fight while still showing they want the best token. Going lower than that is much trickier, especially for flushes board.

== Correcting mistakes ==
If you or someone else made a mistake that can easily be confusing.

It can be corrected naturally by someone hitting a pair, or even rarely with two pockets pairs by someone else hitting a pair.

If it's obvious what is happening you could try to correct it immediately (post flop), especially if there was some fight pre flop.

But I would advise you to let everything goes as planned, and in the final turn, still take your normal chip if the river can be confusing, and after everyone is happy with their chip, fight for the potential mistake which happened earlier. That's because when doing that, it look like to others that you hit a pair, which is extremely confusing.

==Full range and average hand pre-flop ==
This cheat sheet map recommended pre‑flop chips depending of the number of players. Use this at the table as a compact reference. Pairs are above all. All picks are '''rank‑only''' (no suits). Connector (7&8 of diamond) has no value.

''Note that even if the numbers are mathematiquely coherent, since pairs can often more easily be differenciated from A high, you could want to lower slightly the highest range. And I'm unsure the range should be uniform, maybe the range from the outside should be bigger.''

Finally, note that this sheet is only without context. It's great to know where you should put your hand initially. As soon as some player(s) take any chip(s), the value of that sheet fall pretty fast.

===How to read this sheet===
*The 1326 part assume that there will be the same amount of players going for every chip (1326 possible hands)
*The 91 part assume that there will be an equal amount of combinaisons for every chip (91 combinaisons)
*5 = top, 1 = bottom.
*'''Timing cues:''' Quick pick = stronger; taking time or returning a chip = weaker. Use timing as secondary confirmation only.
*'''Use chip takes to correct misorders''' rather than arguing.
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!3 players
!
!2 cards hand / 1326
!2 cards hand / 91
!3 cards hand / 1326
!3 cards hand / 91
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|16.67%
|median 1 hand
|7/5
|7/6
|10/4/2
|10/8/5
|-
|33.33%
|between 1/2 chips
|9/8
|10/3
|J/10/5
|Q/10/4
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 2 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|66.67%
|between 2/3 chips
|K/2
|K/6
|A/7/2
|3/3/7
|-
|83.33%
|median 3 hand
|A/5
|A/10
|2/2/7
|9/9/J
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!4 players
!
!2 cards hand / 1326
!2 cards hand / 91
!3 cards hand / 1326
!3 cards hand / 91
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|12,5%
|median 1 hand
| colspan="2" |7/2
|10/5/5
|9/8/7
|-
|25%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/7
|9/2
|J/4/3
|J/10/2
|-
|37.5%
|median 2 hand
|10/5
|10/7
|Q/6/5
|K/5/3
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 2/3 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|62,5%
|median 3 hand
|Q/8
|K/2
|K/Q/7
|A/K/10
|-
|75%
|between 3/4 chips
|K/9
|A/3
|A/J/4
|6/6/9
|-
|87,5%
|median 4 hand
|A/8
|2/2
|5/5/10
|J/J/5
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!5 players
!
!2 cards hand / 1326
!2 cards hand / 91
!3 cards hand / 1326
!3 cards hand / 91
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|10%
|median 1 hand
| colspan="2" |6/4
|8/7/6
|9/6/5
|-
|20%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/3
|8/4
|10/7/5
|J/5/4
|-
|30%
|median 2 hand
|9/5
|9/7
|J/8/6
|Q/8/2
|-
|40%
|between 2/3 chips
|10/7
|10/9
|Q/8/5
|K/8/2
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 3 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|60%
|between 3/4 chips
|Q/6
|Q/10
|K/J/8
|A/Q/8
|-
|70%
|median 4 hand
|K/5
|K/9
|A/9/2
|4/4/10
|-
|80%
|between 4/5 chips
|A/2
|A/7
|A/K/3
|8/8/6
|-
|90%
|median 5 hand
|A/10
|4/4
|7/7/9
|Q/Q/4
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!6 players
!
!2 cards hand / 1326
!2 cards hand / 91
!3 cards hand / 1326
!3 cards hand / 91
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|8,33%
|median 1 hand
| colspan="2" |6/2
|8/6/4
|9/4/2
|-
|16,67%
|between 1/2 chips
|7/5
|7/6
|10/4/2
|10/8/5
|-
|25%
|median 2 hand
|8/7
|9/2
|J/4/3
|J/10/2
|-
|33,33%
|between 2/3 chips
|9/8
|10/3
|J/10/5
|Q/10/4
|-
|41,67%
|median 3 hand
|10/8
|J/2
|Q/9/4
|K/9/4
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 3/4 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|58,33%
|median 4 hand
|Q/5
|Q/9
|K/J/2
|A/J/10
|-
|66,67%
|between 4/5 chips
|K/2
|K/6
|A/7/2
|3/3/7
|-
|75%
|median 5 hand
|K/9
|A/3
|A/J/4
|6/6/9
|-
|83,33%
|between 5/6 chips
|A/5
|A/10
|2/2/7
|9/9/J
|-
|91,67%
|median 6 hand
|A/J
|6/6
|8/8/Q
|Q/Q/K
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}

== Double pairs on the table (and single pair) ==
When there is two pairs on the table, and you hit nothing, only your highest card count.

That mean per example with a board JJ447, and you having A6, you can play that hand as if it was A2. That mean that if there was a fight earlier and you suspect someone else having better than you, you can play your hand as if it was A2 instead of A6. If that player got A8 or KQ, they could react differently.

In that same example if you got 62, you can take the lowest chip even if you highly suspect someone else has lower than you, because your hand will be JJ447 anyway.

But the most important thing is '''pocket pairs'''. If you got 22, and the second 4 arrived in the river, then '''while your hand was probably the best one pre flop''', still was good post flop and after the turn, '''it became the worst one after the river''' because you don't have a triple pair, you have the lowest possible hand: JJ447. That mean that an 82 which probably took 1 or 2 pre flop is now beating you. And so you should fight for the 1 and insist a lot since it's often not obvious for others players.

If you didn't understood that, you take your best 5 cards to create your hand. That mean that AJ99752 has the same value than AJ99743: they both use AJ997 to do their best hand.

If there is no pair on the board, and you have two pairs, then you should be high. When an unrelated pair come in the flop, now everyone which previously got one pair got the same combinaison than you (or 3 of a kind). That mean that now you should rank yourself as the best of your two pairs, which could mean going down even if others didn't improved.

== 4 cards of the same color on the table ==
'Obviously' on that kind of board, what you should be doing shift completely. Per example with 4 diamonds, we now ask you to rank yourself from the highest diamond card to the lowest diamond card. A hand with an Ace of spade and a 2 of diamond is now weaker than a 4 of spade and a 3 of diamond.

You first should put attention to which player potentially have 2 diamonds on their hand, it's more likely than their highest diamond card is high.

And then pay attention to potential flush house and straight, and good luck, it's like a situational pre flop situation.

If you hit nothing, don't hesitate to goes really low.

Tips thegang

2026-05-24T13:00:16Z

Romain672: /* Full range and average hand pre-flop */ sheet: center cell bolded

''The following tips aren’t set-in-stone rules, but are meant to give you an idea of how communication works in this game. As a group, figure out for yourselves how you’d like to communicate best without discussing your hand.''

Do not be afraid to '''take chips away''' from other players. This is exactly how you communicate the quality of your own hand and help others to categorize you. The more the chips move, the more communication takes place.

Always evaluate the '''current state''', not how good it might still become.
'''1st Phase''': Having a pair from the start: take a high number (and higher than your first chip), otherwise evaluate the rank of your High Card.
'''From 2nd Phase''': If something was revealed in this phase that increases your rating, take a higher (or at least equally high) chip than in the previous round. This allows fellow players to draw conclusions about your specific card values.
Conversely: If nothing fitting your hand was revealed, take a chip that is 1 lower. If then no one wants to indicate a hit with a higher chip, you can return to the evaluation of the previous round.

== Introduction ==
This is a concise ''pre‑flop strategy guide'' for ''The Gang'' focused on **rank‑only** pre‑flop chip selection. It defines a simple, repeatable convention for mapping numbered chips to rank percentiles, explains why the convention helps, clarifies how '''Ace‑high''' hands should be placed so both charts work smoothly, and provides two separate, actionable mapping options you can adopt at the table.

== Core conventions to adopt ==
* '''Establish a ranking convention.''' Map each chip number to a clear percentile bucket so everyone interprets chip choices the same way.
* '''Conservative default.''' On the pre‑flop stage, default to slightly conservative picks and only escalate when community cards materially change the actual hand strength.
* '''Controlled chip theft.''' Taking another player’s chip is the only legal private signal—use it to correct obvious misrankings, not to bluff.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.''' Pre‑flop picks are based on ranks only; suitedness and flush/straight potential are ignored for the initial ranking.
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking a chip quickly signals a stronger rank; taking time to pick a chip, or picking then returning a chip, signals a weaker rank.
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.''' Base your pre‑flop chip choice exclusively on the two ranks in your hand.

== Why a percentile convention helps ==
* '''Reduces ambiguity.''' Percentiles let players interpret rankings consistently.
* '''Makes steals informative.''' A chip take becomes a clear corrective statement about percentile.
* '''Improves planning.'''
** ''' Schedule Specialists and Challenges ''' deliberately because you know which percentile buckets are likely to win or lose across rounds.
** ''' Budget risk ''' by tracking how many top‑bucket rank outcomes remain and deciding when to spend a Specialist or accept a Challenge.
** ''' Assign informal roles ''' based on predictable chip distributions.
** ''' Make corrective plays efficient: ''' a chip take can reallocate risk and reduce disputes.

== Pre‑flop decision rules (rank‑only) ==
* '''Pairs are one group.''' Treat any pocket pair as a single pre‑flop signal category for the initial chip pick.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.'''
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.'''
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking quickly = stronger; taking time = weaker.
* '''No talk; use takes to correct.'''
* '''Conservative default for speculative hands.'''
* The median hand is exactly J7.

== Simple interpertation pre flop for 5 players: ==
When suits are ignored, here is what all chips initially have (you have the exact hand at the middle of the page):
{| class="wikitable"
!Chips
!Group
|-
|5
|Pairs / A high
|-
|4
|K / Q high
|-
|3
|Q low / J high
|-
|2
|10/9/8 high
|-
|1
|7 high
|}

== Post flop advices ==
When hitting a double pair or better fight for the highest token. After someone steal it twice/thrice from you re-evaluate the board to look for potential straight/flushes (note that some straight are impossible from the first chip choice). Then evaluate for the bottom double pair or high one.

When having a pocket hand pair pre flop higher than all value on the table, fight for the highest token.

When hitting top pair (the pair from the highest value on the table) take the highest token. You could insist once depending of first chip choice.

When hitting middle pair, take the second highest token if that's an increase from the first round. If it's the same value or below, wait for others choices. Note that it's possible that you took the highest token twice. On that case, others doesn't know you hit a pair, and you should take in consideration for future rounds.

When hitting bottom pair, wait for others choices, and then put yourself the lowest between those which improved.

When hitting nothing take the 1/2 token or one or two below your first chip.

== Turn and River advices ==
That card start to be really situationnal.

If that new card open straight and flushes, nearly any hand could goes for the highest chip immediately. Even if you got a double pair you should be careful about fighting for this highest token. Take into consideration how many straight and flushes there is. If it's really few (1 or 2) then the player which hit those should insist a lot for the highest token. That mean with a slightly weaker hand (like double pair) you could try to insist for 6. On the contrary if there is lots of straight and flushes (4 or 9+), take a lower chip more easily.

If that new card is above all others cards a new pair most likely put yourself as the best or second best hand, so take a really high chip.

If that new card is around the same value of others, take an higher chip, and let others decide where they put yourself. They know which pair you got but you don't know which pair they got.

If that new card is below all others cards, put yourself as the higher chip between those which never improved.

Note that pocket pairs can rank weirdly.

Finallya at the River, the nuts (highest possible hand) should insist a lot for the highest token since there is nothing to lose. Knowing that, the second best hand can do the same. The third best hand can do the same but show weakness once after the fight while still showing they want the best token. Going lower than that is much trickier, especially for flushes board.

== Correcting mistakes ==
If you or someone else made a mistake that can easily be confusing.

It can be corrected naturally by someone hitting a pair, or even rarely with two pockets pairs by someone else hitting a pair.

If it's obvious what is happening you could try to correct it immediately (post flop), especially if there was some fight pre flop.

But I would advise you to let everything goes as planned, and in the final turn, still take your normal chip if the river can be confusing, and after everyone is happy with their chip, fight for the potential mistake which happened earlier. That's because when doing that, it look like to others that you hit a pair, which is extremely confusing.

==Full range and average hand pre-flop ==
This cheat sheet map recommended pre‑flop chips depending of the number of players. Use this at the table as a compact reference. Pairs are above all. All picks are '''rank‑only''' (no suits). Connector (7&8 of diamond) has no value.

''Note that even if the numbers are mathematiquely coherent, since pairs can often more easily be differenciated from A high, you could want to lower slightly the highest range. And I'm unsure the range should be uniform, maybe the range from the outside should be bigger.''

Finally, note that this sheet is only without context. It's great to know where you should put your hand initially. As soon as some player(s) take any chip(s), the value of that sheet fall pretty fast.

===How to read this sheet===
*The 1326 part assume that there will be the same amount of players going for every chip (1326 possible hands)
*The 91 part assume that there will be an equal amount of combinaisons for every chip (91 combinaisons)
*5 = top, 1 = bottom.
*'''Timing cues:''' Quick pick = stronger; taking time or returning a chip = weaker. Use timing as secondary confirmation only.
*'''Use chip takes to correct misorders''' rather than arguing.
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!3 players
!
!2 cards hand / 1326
!2 cards hand / 91
!3 cards hand / 1326
!3 cards hand / 91
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|16.67%
|median 1 hand
|7/5
|7/6
|10/4/2
|10/8/5
|-
|33.33%
|between 1/2 chips
|9/8
|10/3
|J/10/5
|Q/10/4
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 2 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|66.67%
|between 2/3 chips
|K/2
|K/6
|A/7/2
|3/3/7
|-
|83.33%
|median 3 hand
|A/5
|A/10
|2/2/7
|9/9/J
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!4 players
!
!2 cards hand / 1326
!2 cards hand / 91
!3 cards hand / 1326
!3 cards hand / 91
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|12,5%
|median 1 hand
| colspan="2" |7/2
|10/5/5
|9/8/7
|-
|25%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/7
|9/2
|J/4/3
|J/10/2
|-
|37.5%
|median 2 hand
|10/5
|10/7
|Q/6/5
|K/5/3
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 2/3 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|62,5%
|median 3 hand
|Q/8
|K/2
|K/Q/7
|A/K/10
|-
|75%
|between 3/4 chips
|K/9
|A/3
|A/J/4
|6/6/9
|-
|87,5%
|median 4 hand
|A/8
|2/2
|5/5/10
|J/J/5
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!5 players
!
!2 cards hand / 1326
!2 cards hand / 91
!3 cards hand / 1326
!3 cards hand / 91
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|10%
|median 1 hand
| colspan="2" |6/4
|8/7/6
|9/6/5
|-
|20%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/3
|8/4
|10/7/5
|J/5/4
|-
|30%
|median 2 hand
|9/5
|9/7
|J/8/6
|Q/8/2
|-
|40%
|between 2/3 chips
|10/7
|10/9
|Q/8/5
|K/8/2
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 3 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|60%
|between 3/4 chips
|Q/6
|Q/10
|K/J/8
|A/Q/8
|-
|70%
|median 4 hand
|K/5
|K/9
|A/9/2
|4/4/10
|-
|80%
|between 4/5 chips
|A/2
|A/7
|A/K/3
|8/8/6
|-
|90%
|median 5 hand
|A/10
|4/4
|7/7/9
|Q/Q/4
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!6 players
!
!2 cards hand / 1326
!2 cards hand / 91
!3 cards hand / 1326
!3 cards hand / 91
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|8,33%
|median 1 hand
| colspan="2" |6/2
|8/6/4
|9/4/2
|-
|16,67%
|between 1/2 chips
|7/5
|7/6
|10/4/2
|10/8/5
|-
|25%
|median 2 hand
|8/7
|9/2
|J/4/3
|J/10/2
|-
|33,33%
|between 2/3 chips
|9/8
|10/3
|J/10/5
|Q/10/4
|-
|41,67%
|median 3 hand
|10/8
|J/2
|Q/9/4
|Q/9/4
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 3/4 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''J/10'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|'''A/6/2'''
|-
|58,33%
|median 4 hand
|Q/5
|Q/9
|K/J/2
|A/J/10
|-
|66,67%
|between 4/5 chips
|K/2
|K/6
|A/7/2
|3/3/7
|-
|75%
|median 5 hand
|K/9
|A/3
|A/J/4
|6/6/9
|-
|83,33%
|between 5/6 chips
|A/5
|A/10
|2/2/7
|9/9/J
|-
|91,67%
|median 6 hand
|A/J
|6/6
|8/8/Q
|Q/Q/K
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}

== Double pairs on the table (and single pair) ==
When there is two pairs on the table, and you hit nothing, only your highest card count.

That mean per example with a board JJ447, and you having A6, you can play that hand as if it was A2. That mean that if there was a fight earlier and you suspect someone else having better than you, you can play your hand as if it was A2 instead of A6. If that player got A8 or KQ, they could react differently.

In that same example if you got 62, you can take the lowest chip even if you highly suspect someone else has lower than you, because your hand will be JJ447 anyway.

But the most important thing is '''pocket pairs'''. If you got 22, and the second 4 arrived in the river, then '''while your hand was probably the best one pre flop''', still was good post flop and after the turn, '''it became the worst one after the river''' because you don't have a triple pair, you have the lowest possible hand: JJ447. That mean that an 82 which probably took 1 or 2 pre flop is now beating you. And so you should fight for the 1 and insist a lot since it's often not obvious for others players.

If you didn't understood that, you take your best 5 cards to create your hand. That mean that AJ99752 has the same value than AJ99743: they both use AJ997 to do their best hand.

If there is no pair on the board, and you have two pairs, then you should be high. When an unrelated pair come in the flop, now everyone which previously got one pair got the same combinaison than you (or 3 of a kind). That mean that now you should rank yourself as the best of your two pairs, which could mean going down even if others didn't improved.

== 4 cards of the same color on the table ==
'Obviously' on that kind of board, what you should be doing shift completely. Per example with 4 diamonds, we now ask you to rank yourself from the highest diamond card to the lowest diamond card. A hand with an Ace of spade and a 2 of diamond is now weaker than a 4 of spade and a 3 of diamond.

You first should put attention to which player potentially have 2 diamonds on their hand, it's more likely than their highest diamond card is high.

And then pay attention to potential flush house and straight, and good luck, it's like a situational pre flop situation.

If you hit nothing, don't hesitate to goes really low.

Tips thegang

2026-05-24T12:46:31Z

Romain672: /* How to read this sheet */ Added new sheet 91 (sheet 1326 already present)

''The following tips aren’t set-in-stone rules, but are meant to give you an idea of how communication works in this game. As a group, figure out for yourselves how you’d like to communicate best without discussing your hand.''

Do not be afraid to '''take chips away''' from other players. This is exactly how you communicate the quality of your own hand and help others to categorize you. The more the chips move, the more communication takes place.

Always evaluate the '''current state''', not how good it might still become.
'''1st Phase''': Having a pair from the start: take a high number (and higher than your first chip), otherwise evaluate the rank of your High Card.
'''From 2nd Phase''': If something was revealed in this phase that increases your rating, take a higher (or at least equally high) chip than in the previous round. This allows fellow players to draw conclusions about your specific card values.
Conversely: If nothing fitting your hand was revealed, take a chip that is 1 lower. If then no one wants to indicate a hit with a higher chip, you can return to the evaluation of the previous round.

== Introduction ==
This is a concise ''pre‑flop strategy guide'' for ''The Gang'' focused on **rank‑only** pre‑flop chip selection. It defines a simple, repeatable convention for mapping numbered chips to rank percentiles, explains why the convention helps, clarifies how '''Ace‑high''' hands should be placed so both charts work smoothly, and provides two separate, actionable mapping options you can adopt at the table.

== Core conventions to adopt ==
* '''Establish a ranking convention.''' Map each chip number to a clear percentile bucket so everyone interprets chip choices the same way.
* '''Conservative default.''' On the pre‑flop stage, default to slightly conservative picks and only escalate when community cards materially change the actual hand strength.
* '''Controlled chip theft.''' Taking another player’s chip is the only legal private signal—use it to correct obvious misrankings, not to bluff.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.''' Pre‑flop picks are based on ranks only; suitedness and flush/straight potential are ignored for the initial ranking.
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking a chip quickly signals a stronger rank; taking time to pick a chip, or picking then returning a chip, signals a weaker rank.
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.''' Base your pre‑flop chip choice exclusively on the two ranks in your hand.

== Why a percentile convention helps ==
* '''Reduces ambiguity.''' Percentiles let players interpret rankings consistently.
* '''Makes steals informative.''' A chip take becomes a clear corrective statement about percentile.
* '''Improves planning.'''
** ''' Schedule Specialists and Challenges ''' deliberately because you know which percentile buckets are likely to win or lose across rounds.
** ''' Budget risk ''' by tracking how many top‑bucket rank outcomes remain and deciding when to spend a Specialist or accept a Challenge.
** ''' Assign informal roles ''' based on predictable chip distributions.
** ''' Make corrective plays efficient: ''' a chip take can reallocate risk and reduce disputes.

== Pre‑flop decision rules (rank‑only) ==
* '''Pairs are one group.''' Treat any pocket pair as a single pre‑flop signal category for the initial chip pick.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.'''
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.'''
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking quickly = stronger; taking time = weaker.
* '''No talk; use takes to correct.'''
* '''Conservative default for speculative hands.'''
* The median hand is exactly J7.

== Simple interpertation pre flop for 5 players: ==
When suits are ignored, here is what all chips initially have (you have the exact hand at the middle of the page):
{| class="wikitable"
!Chips
!Group
|-
|5
|Pairs / A high
|-
|4
|K / Q high
|-
|3
|Q low / J high
|-
|2
|10/9/8 high
|-
|1
|7 high
|}

== Post flop advices ==
When hitting a double pair or better fight for the highest token. After someone steal it twice/thrice from you re-evaluate the board to look for potential straight/flushes (note that some straight are impossible from the first chip choice). Then evaluate for the bottom double pair or high one.

When having a pocket hand pair pre flop higher than all value on the table, fight for the highest token.

When hitting top pair (the pair from the highest value on the table) take the highest token. You could insist once depending of first chip choice.

When hitting middle pair, take the second highest token if that's an increase from the first round. If it's the same value or below, wait for others choices. Note that it's possible that you took the highest token twice. On that case, others doesn't know you hit a pair, and you should take in consideration for future rounds.

When hitting bottom pair, wait for others choices, and then put yourself the lowest between those which improved.

When hitting nothing take the 1/2 token or one or two below your first chip.

== Turn and River advices ==
That card start to be really situationnal.

If that new card open straight and flushes, nearly any hand could goes for the highest chip immediately. Even if you got a double pair you should be careful about fighting for this highest token. Take into consideration how many straight and flushes there is. If it's really few (1 or 2) then the player which hit those should insist a lot for the highest token. That mean with a slightly weaker hand (like double pair) you could try to insist for 6. On the contrary if there is lots of straight and flushes (4 or 9+), take a lower chip more easily.

If that new card is above all others cards a new pair most likely put yourself as the best or second best hand, so take a really high chip.

If that new card is around the same value of others, take an higher chip, and let others decide where they put yourself. They know which pair you got but you don't know which pair they got.

If that new card is below all others cards, put yourself as the higher chip between those which never improved.

Note that pocket pairs can rank weirdly.

Finallya at the River, the nuts (highest possible hand) should insist a lot for the highest token since there is nothing to lose. Knowing that, the second best hand can do the same. The third best hand can do the same but show weakness once after the fight while still showing they want the best token. Going lower than that is much trickier, especially for flushes board.

== Correcting mistakes ==
If you or someone else made a mistake that can easily be confusing.

It can be corrected naturally by someone hitting a pair, or even rarely with two pockets pairs by someone else hitting a pair.

If it's obvious what is happening you could try to correct it immediately (post flop), especially if there was some fight pre flop.

But I would advise you to let everything goes as planned, and in the final turn, still take your normal chip if the river can be confusing, and after everyone is happy with their chip, fight for the potential mistake which happened earlier. That's because when doing that, it look like to others that you hit a pair, which is extremely confusing.

==Full range and average hand pre-flop ==
This cheat sheet map recommended pre‑flop chips depending of the number of players. Use this at the table as a compact reference. Pairs are above all. All picks are '''rank‑only''' (no suits). Connector (7&8 of diamond) has no value.

''Note that even if the numbers are mathematiquely coherent, since pairs can often more easily be differenciated from A high, you could want to lower slightly the highest range. And I'm unsure the range should be uniform, maybe the range from the outside should be bigger.''

Finally, note that this sheet is only without context. It's great to know where you should put your hand initially. As soon as some player(s) take any chip(s), the value of that sheet fall pretty fast.

===How to read this sheet===
*The 1326 part assume that there will be the same amount of players going for every chip (1326 possible hands)
*The 91 part assume that there will be an equal amount of combinaisons for every chip (91 combinaisons)
*5 = top, 1 = bottom.
*'''Timing cues:''' Quick pick = stronger; taking time or returning a chip = weaker. Use timing as secondary confirmation only.
*'''Use chip takes to correct misorders''' rather than arguing.
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!3 players
!
!2 cards hand / 1326
!2 cards hand / 91
!3 cards hand / 1326
!3 cards hand / 91
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|16.67%
|median 1 hand
|7/5
|7/6
|10/4/2
|10/8/5
|-
|33.33%
|between 1/2 chips
|9/8
|10/3
|J/10/5
|Q/10/4
|-
|50%
|median 2 hand
|J/7
|J/10
|K/6/3
|A/6/2
|-
|66.67%
|between 2/3 chips
|K/2
|K/6
|A/7/2
|3/3/7
|-
|83.33%
|median 3 hand
|A/5
|A/10
|2/2/7
|9/9/J
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!4 players
!
!2 cards hand / 1326
!2 cards hand / 91
!3 cards hand / 1326
!3 cards hand / 91
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|12,5%
|median 1 hand
| colspan="2" |7/2
|10/5/5
|9/8/7
|-
|25%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/7
|9/2
|J/4/3
|J/10/2
|-
|37.5%
|median 2 hand
|10/5
|10/7
|Q/6/5
|K/5/3
|-
|50%
|between 2/3 chips
|J/7
|J/10
|K/6/3
|A/6/2
|-
|62,5%
|median 3 hand
|Q/8
|K/2
|K/Q/7
|A/K/10
|-
|75%
|between 3/4 chips
|K/9
|A/3
|A/J/4
|6/6/9
|-
|87,5%
|median 4 hand
|A/8
|2/2
|5/5/10
|J/J/5
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!5 players
!
!2 cards hand / 1326
!2 cards hand / 91
!3 cards hand / 1326
!3 cards hand / 91
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|10%
|median 1 hand
| colspan="2" |6/4
|8/7/6
|9/6/5
|-
|20%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/3
|8/4
|10/7/5
|J/5/4
|-
|30%
|median 2 hand
|9/5
|9/7
|J/8/6
|Q/8/2
|-
|40%
|between 2/3 chips
|10/7
|10/9
|Q/8/5
|K/8/2
|-
|50%
|median 3 hand
|J/7
|J/10
|K/6/3
|A/6/2
|-
|60%
|between 3/4 chips
|Q/6
|Q/10
|K/J/8
|A/Q/8
|-
|70%
|median 4 hand
|K/5
|K/9
|A/9/2
|4/4/10
|-
|80%
|between 4/5 chips
|A/2
|A/7
|A/K/3
|8/8/6
|-
|90%
|median 5 hand
|A/10
|4/4
|7/7/9
|Q/Q/4
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!6 players
!
!2 cards hand / 1326
!2 cards hand / 91
!3 cards hand / 1326
!3 cards hand / 91
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
| colspan="2" |3/2
| colspan="2" |4/3/2
|-
|8,33%
|median 1 hand
| colspan="2" |6/2
|8/6/4
|9/4/2
|-
|16,67%
|between 1/2 chips
|7/5
|7/6
|10/4/2
|10/8/5
|-
|25%
|median 2 hand
|8/7
|9/2
|J/4/3
|J/10/2
|-
|33,33%
|between 2/3 chips
|9/8
|10/3
|J/10/5
|Q/10/4
|-
|41,67%
|median 3 hand
|10/8
|J/2
|Q/9/4
|Q/9/4
|-
|50%
|between 3/4 chips
|J/7
|J/10
|K/6/3
|A/6/2
|-
|58,33%
|median 4 hand
|Q/5
|Q/9
|K/J/2
|A/J/10
|-
|66,67%
|between 4/5 chips
|K/2
|K/6
|A/7/2
|3/3/7
|-
|75%
|median 5 hand
|K/9
|A/3
|A/J/4
|6/6/9
|-
|83,33%
|between 5/6 chips
|A/5
|A/10
|2/2/7
|9/9/J
|-
|91,67%
|median 6 hand
|A/J
|6/6
|8/8/Q
|Q/Q/K
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
| colspan="2" |A/A
| colspan="2" |A/A/A
|}

== Double pairs on the table (and single pair) ==
When there is two pairs on the table, and you hit nothing, only your highest card count.

That mean per example with a board JJ447, and you having A6, you can play that hand as if it was A2. That mean that if there was a fight earlier and you suspect someone else having better than you, you can play your hand as if it was A2 instead of A6. If that player got A8 or KQ, they could react differently.

In that same example if you got 62, you can take the lowest chip even if you highly suspect someone else has lower than you, because your hand will be JJ447 anyway.

But the most important thing is '''pocket pairs'''. If you got 22, and the second 4 arrived in the river, then '''while your hand was probably the best one pre flop''', still was good post flop and after the turn, '''it became the worst one after the river''' because you don't have a triple pair, you have the lowest possible hand: JJ447. That mean that an 82 which probably took 1 or 2 pre flop is now beating you. And so you should fight for the 1 and insist a lot since it's often not obvious for others players.

If you didn't understood that, you take your best 5 cards to create your hand. That mean that AJ99752 has the same value than AJ99743: they both use AJ997 to do their best hand.

If there is no pair on the board, and you have two pairs, then you should be high. When an unrelated pair come in the flop, now everyone which previously got one pair got the same combinaison than you (or 3 of a kind). That mean that now you should rank yourself as the best of your two pairs, which could mean going down even if others didn't improved.

== 4 cards of the same color on the table ==
'Obviously' on that kind of board, what you should be doing shift completely. Per example with 4 diamonds, we now ask you to rank yourself from the highest diamond card to the lowest diamond card. A hand with an Ace of spade and a 2 of diamond is now weaker than a 4 of spade and a 3 of diamond.

You first should put attention to which player potentially have 2 diamonds on their hand, it's more likely than their highest diamond card is high.

And then pay attention to potential flush house and straight, and good luck, it's like a situational pre flop situation.

If you hit nothing, don't hesitate to goes really low.

Tips thegang

2026-05-24T10:37:30Z

Romain672: /* Full range and average hand pre-flop */ Added 'one pair' board

Tips thegang

2026-05-23T16:57:44Z

Romain672: /* Full range and average hand pre-flop */ Added disclaimer before the nerd tables

Tips thegang

2026-05-23T11:50:22Z

Romain672: /* Post flop advices */

Tips thegang

2026-05-23T11:41:40Z

Romain672: /* River and Turn advices */ Adding tips for river

Tips thegang

2026-05-23T11:08:39Z

Romain672: /* 4 cards of the same color on the table */ removed old cheat sheet

Tips thegang

2026-05-23T11:07:14Z

Romain672: /* River and Turn advices */

''The following tips aren’t set-in-stone rules, but are meant to give you an idea of how communication works in this game. As a group, figure out for yourselves how you’d like to communicate best without discussing your hand.''

Do not be afraid to '''take chips away''' from other players. This is exactly how you communicate the quality of your own hand and help others to categorize you. The more the chips move, the more communication takes place.

Always evaluate the '''current state''', not how good it might still become.
'''1st Phase''': Having a pair from the start: take a high number (and higher than your first chip), otherwise evaluate the rank of your High Card.
'''From 2nd Phase''': If something was revealed in this phase that increases your rating, take a higher (or at least equally high) chip than in the previous round. This allows fellow players to draw conclusions about your specific card values.
Conversely: If nothing fitting your hand was revealed, take a chip that is 1 lower. If then no one wants to indicate a hit with a higher chip, you can return to the evaluation of the previous round.

== Introduction ==
This is a concise ''pre‑flop strategy guide'' for ''The Gang'' focused on **rank‑only** pre‑flop chip selection. It defines a simple, repeatable convention for mapping numbered chips to rank percentiles, explains why the convention helps, clarifies how '''Ace‑high''' hands should be placed so both charts work smoothly, and provides two separate, actionable mapping options you can adopt at the table.

== Core conventions to adopt ==
* '''Establish a ranking convention.''' Map each chip number to a clear percentile bucket so everyone interprets chip choices the same way.
* '''Conservative default.''' On the pre‑flop stage, default to slightly conservative picks and only escalate when community cards materially change the actual hand strength.
* '''Controlled chip theft.''' Taking another player’s chip is the only legal private signal—use it to correct obvious misrankings, not to bluff.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.''' Pre‑flop picks are based on ranks only; suitedness and flush/straight potential are ignored for the initial ranking.
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking a chip quickly signals a stronger rank; taking time to pick a chip, or picking then returning a chip, signals a weaker rank.
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.''' Base your pre‑flop chip choice exclusively on the two ranks in your hand.

== Why a percentile convention helps ==
* '''Reduces ambiguity.''' Percentiles let players interpret rankings consistently.
* '''Makes steals informative.''' A chip take becomes a clear corrective statement about percentile.
* '''Improves planning.'''
** ''' Schedule Specialists and Challenges ''' deliberately because you know which percentile buckets are likely to win or lose across rounds.
** ''' Budget risk ''' by tracking how many top‑bucket rank outcomes remain and deciding when to spend a Specialist or accept a Challenge.
** ''' Assign informal roles ''' based on predictable chip distributions.
** ''' Make corrective plays efficient: ''' a chip take can reallocate risk and reduce disputes.

== Pre‑flop decision rules (rank‑only) ==
* '''Pairs are one group.''' Treat any pocket pair as a single pre‑flop signal category for the initial chip pick.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.'''
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.'''
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking quickly = stronger; taking time = weaker.
* '''No talk; use takes to correct.'''
* '''Conservative default for speculative hands.'''
* The median hand is exactly J7.

== Simple interpertation pre flop for 5 players: ==
When suits are ignored, here is what all chips sinitially have (you have the exact hand at the middle of the page):
{| class="wikitable"
!Chips
!Group
|-
|5
|Pairs / A high
|-
|4
|K / Q high
|-
|3
|Q low / J high
|-
|2
|10/9/8 high
|-
|1
|7 high
|}

== Post flop advices ==
When hitting a double pair or better fight for the highest token. After someone steal it twice/thrice from you re-evaluate the chop to look for potential straight/flushes (note that some straight are impossible from the first chip choice). Then evaluate for the bottom double pair or high one.

When having a pocket hand pair pre flop higher than all value on the table, fight for the highest token.

When hitting top pair (the pair from the highest value on the table) take the highest token. You could insist once depending of first chip choice.

When hitting middle pair, take the second highest token if that's an increase from the first round. If it's the same value or below, wait for others choices. Note that it's possible that you took the highest token twice. On that case, others doesn't know you hit a pair, and you should take in consideration for future rounds.

When hitting bottom pair, wait for others choices, and then put yourself the lowest between those which improved.

When hitting nothing take the 1/2 token or one or two below your first chip.

== River and Turn advices ==
That card start to be really situationnal.

If that new card open straight and flushes, nearly any hand could goes for the highest chip immediately. Even if you got a double pair you should be careful about fighting for this highest token. Take into consideration how many straight and flushes there is. If it's really few (1 or 2) then the player which hit those should insist a lot for the highest token. That mean with a slightly weaker hand (like double pair) you could try to insist for 6. On the contrary if there is lots of straight and flushes (4 or 9+), take a lower chip more easily.

If that new card is above all others cards a new pair most likely put yourself as the best or second best hand, so take a really high chip.

If that new card is around the same value of others, take an higher chip, and let others decide where they put yourself. They know which pair you got but you don't know which pair they got.

If that new card is below all others cards, put yourself as the higher chip between those which never improved.

Note that pocket pairs can rank weirdly.

== Correcting mistakes ==
If you or someone else made a mistake that can easily be confusing.

It can be corrected naturally by someone hitting a pair, or even rarely with two pockets pairs by someone else hitting a pair.

If it's obvious what is happening you could try to correct it immediately (post flop), especially if there was some fight pre flop.

But I would advise you to let everything goes as planned, and in the final turn, still take your normal chip if the river can be confusing, and after everyone is happy with their chip, fight for the potential mistake which happened earlier. That's because when doing that, it look like to others that you hit a pair, which is extremely confusing.

==Full range and average hand pre-flop ==
This cheat sheet map recommended pre‑flop chips depending of the number of players. Use this at the table as a compact reference. Pairs are above all. All picks are '''rank‑only''' (no suits). Connector (7&8 of diamond) has no value.

''Note that even if the numbers are mathematiquely coherent, since pairs can often more easily be differenciated from A high, you could want to lower slightly the highest range. And I'm unsure the range should be uniform, maybe the range from the outside should be bigger.''

===How to read this sheet===
*5 = top, 1 = bottom.
*'''Timing cues:''' Quick pick = stronger; taking time or returning a chip = weaker. Use timing as secondary confirmation only.
*'''Use chip takes to correct misorders''' rather than arguing.
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!3 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|16.67%
|median 1 hand
|7/5
|10/4/2
|-
|33.33%
|between 1/2 chips
|9/8
|J/10/5
|-
|50%
|median 2 hand
|J/7
|K/6/3
|-
|66.67%
|between 2/3 chips
|K/2
|A/7/2
|-
|83.33%
|median 3 hand
|A/5
|2/2/7
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!4 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|12,5%
|median 1 hand
|7/2
|10/5/5
|-
|25%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/7
|J/4/3
|-
|37.5%
|median 2 hand
|10/5
|Q/6/5
|-
|50%
|between 2/3 chips
|J/7
|K/6/3
|-
|62,5%
|median 3 hand
|Q/8
|K/Q/7
|-
|75%
|between 3/4 chips
|K/9
|A/J/4
|-
|87,5%
|median 4 hand
|A/8
|5/5/10
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!5 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|10%
|median 1 hand
|6/4
|8/7/6
|-
|20%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/3
|10/7/5
|-
|30%
|median 2 hand
|9/5
|J/8/6
|-
|40%
|between 2/3 chips
|10/7
|Q/8/5
|-
|50%
|median 3 hand
|J/7
|K/6/3
|-
|60%
|between 3/4 chips
|Q/6
|K/J/8
|-
|70%
|median 4 hand
|K/5
|A/9/2
|-
|80%
|between 4/5 chips
|A/2
|A/K/3
|-
|90%
|median 5 hand
|A/10
|7/7/9
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!6 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|8,33%
|median 1 hand
|6/2
|8/6/4
|-
|16,67%
|between 1/2 chips
|7/5
|10/4/2
|-
|25%
|median 2 hand
|8/7
|J/4/3
|-
|33,33%
|between 2/3 chips
|9/8
|J/10/5
|-
|41,67%
|median 3 hand
|10/8
|Q/9/4
|-
|50%
|between 3/4 chips
|J/7
|K/6/3
|-
|58,33%
|median 4 hand
|Q/5
|K/J/2
|-
|66,67%
|between 4/5 chips
|K/2
|A/7/2
|-
|75%
|median 5 hand
|K/9
|A/J/4
|-
|83,33%
|between 5/6 chips
|A/5
|2/2/7
|-
|91,67%
|median 6 hand
|A/J
|8/8/Q
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}

== Double pairs on the table ==
When there is two pairs on the table, and you hit nothing, only your highest card count.

That mean per example with a board JJ447, and you having A6, you can play that hand as if it was A2. That mean that if there was a fight earlier and you suspect someone else having better than you, you can play your hand as if it was A2 instead of A6. If that player got A8 or KQ, they could react differently.

In that same example if you got 62, you can take the lowest chip even if you highly suspect someone else has lower than you, because your hand will be JJ447 anyway.

But the most important thing is '''pocket pairs'''. If you got 22, and the second 4 arrived in the river, then '''while your hand was probably the best one pre flop''', still was good post flop and after the turn, '''it became the worst one after the river''' because you don't have a triple pair, you have the lowest possible hand: JJ447. That mean that an 82 which probably took 1 or 2 pre flop is now beating you. And so you should fight for the 1 and insist a lot since it's often not obvious for others players.

If you didn't understood that, you take your best 5 cards to create your hand. That mean that AJ99752 has the same value than AJ99743: they both use AJ997 to do their best hand.

== 4 cards of the same color on the table ==
'Obviously' on that kind of board, what you should be doing shift completely. Per example with 4 diamonds, we now ask you to rank yourself from the highest diamond card to the lowest diamond card. A hand with an Ace of spade and a 2 of diamond is now weaker than a 4 of spade and a 3 of diamond.

You first should put attention to which player potentially have 2 diamonds on their hand, it's more likely than their highest diamond card is high.

And then pay attention to potential flush house and straight, and good luck, it's like a situational pre flop situation.

If you hit nothing, don't hesitate to goes really low.


==Pre‑flop Cheat Sheet ==
This cheat sheet maps common two‑rank examples to recommended pre‑flop chips for a '''5‑player baseline''', with quick adjustment rules for '''4''' and '''6''' player games. Use this at the table as a compact reference. All picks are '''rank‑only''' (no suits).

===How to read this sheet===
*'''Chip scale (5‑player baseline):''' 5 = top, 1 = bottom.
*'''Adjust for player count:''' For '''4 players''', move each recommended chip '''up one step''' (e.g., 4 → 5). For '''6 players''', move each recommended chip '''down one step''' (e.g., 3 → 2).
*'''Pairs:''' All pocket pairs map to the pair bucket pre‑flop.
*'''Timing cues:''' Quick pick = stronger; taking time or returning a chip = weaker. Use timing as secondary confirmation only.
*'''Use chip takes to correct misorders''' rather than arguing.

{| class="wikitable sortable" style="width:100%; text-align:left;"
!Example hand
!bucket (pairs separate)
!chip (5‑player)
!Quick note / guidance
|-
|AA, KK, QQ
|Pairs
|5
|All pairs start in the pair bucket; treat uniformly pre‑flop.
|-
|AK (unsuited)
|A/K high
|4
|Strong A‑high; Chart 1 maps to chip 4, Chart 2 places in top bucket.
|-
|AQ
|A/K high
|4
|Strong A‑high; treat like AK for baseline mapping.
|-
|AJ, AT
|A/K high
|3
|Lower A‑highs; Chart 1 places lower than AK/AQ.
|-
|A9–A5
|A/K high
|3
|Weak A‑highs; Chart 1 keeps them in second/third chip range.
|-
|KQ, KJ, KT
|A/K high
|3
|Strong K‑high hands; Chart 2 groups them with K/Q.
|-
|QJ, QT
|Q/J high
|3
|Q‑J range; Chart 2 groups with K/Q for a tighter mid bucket.
|-
|JT, T9
|Q/J high
|2
|Connectors and high singletons; mid/low mid buckets.
|-
|T8, 98, 87
|10/9/8 high
|2
|Lower connectors and middling singletons; default to lower chips.
|-
|76, 65, 54, 43, 32
|7 high or lower
|1
|Bottom ranks; speculative only pre‑flop.

|}

Tips thegang

2026-05-23T11:03:34Z

Romain672: /* Full range and average hand pre-flop */

''The following tips aren’t set-in-stone rules, but are meant to give you an idea of how communication works in this game. As a group, figure out for yourselves how you’d like to communicate best without discussing your hand.''

Do not be afraid to '''take chips away''' from other players. This is exactly how you communicate the quality of your own hand and help others to categorize you. The more the chips move, the more communication takes place.

Always evaluate the '''current state''', not how good it might still become.
'''1st Phase''': Having a pair from the start: take a high number (and higher than your first chip), otherwise evaluate the rank of your High Card.
'''From 2nd Phase''': If something was revealed in this phase that increases your rating, take a higher (or at least equally high) chip than in the previous round. This allows fellow players to draw conclusions about your specific card values.
Conversely: If nothing fitting your hand was revealed, take a chip that is 1 lower. If then no one wants to indicate a hit with a higher chip, you can return to the evaluation of the previous round.

== Introduction ==
This is a concise ''pre‑flop strategy guide'' for ''The Gang'' focused on **rank‑only** pre‑flop chip selection. It defines a simple, repeatable convention for mapping numbered chips to rank percentiles, explains why the convention helps, clarifies how '''Ace‑high''' hands should be placed so both charts work smoothly, and provides two separate, actionable mapping options you can adopt at the table.

== Core conventions to adopt ==
* '''Establish a ranking convention.''' Map each chip number to a clear percentile bucket so everyone interprets chip choices the same way.
* '''Conservative default.''' On the pre‑flop stage, default to slightly conservative picks and only escalate when community cards materially change the actual hand strength.
* '''Controlled chip theft.''' Taking another player’s chip is the only legal private signal—use it to correct obvious misrankings, not to bluff.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.''' Pre‑flop picks are based on ranks only; suitedness and flush/straight potential are ignored for the initial ranking.
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking a chip quickly signals a stronger rank; taking time to pick a chip, or picking then returning a chip, signals a weaker rank.
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.''' Base your pre‑flop chip choice exclusively on the two ranks in your hand.

== Why a percentile convention helps ==
* '''Reduces ambiguity.''' Percentiles let players interpret rankings consistently.
* '''Makes steals informative.''' A chip take becomes a clear corrective statement about percentile.
* '''Improves planning.'''
** ''' Schedule Specialists and Challenges ''' deliberately because you know which percentile buckets are likely to win or lose across rounds.
** ''' Budget risk ''' by tracking how many top‑bucket rank outcomes remain and deciding when to spend a Specialist or accept a Challenge.
** ''' Assign informal roles ''' based on predictable chip distributions.
** ''' Make corrective plays efficient: ''' a chip take can reallocate risk and reduce disputes.

== Pre‑flop decision rules (rank‑only) ==
* '''Pairs are one group.''' Treat any pocket pair as a single pre‑flop signal category for the initial chip pick.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.'''
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.'''
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking quickly = stronger; taking time = weaker.
* '''No talk; use takes to correct.'''
* '''Conservative default for speculative hands.'''
* The median hand is exactly J7.

== Simple interpertation pre flop for 5 players: ==
When suits are ignored, here is what all chips sinitially have (you have the exact hand at the middle of the page):
{| class="wikitable"
!Chips
!Group
|-
|5
|Pairs / A high
|-
|4
|K / Q high
|-
|3
|Q low / J high
|-
|2
|10/9/8 high
|-
|1
|7 high
|}

== Post flop advices ==
When hitting a double pair or better fight for the highest token. After someone steal it twice/thrice from you re-evaluate the chop to look for potential straight/flushes (note that some straight are impossible from the first chip choice). Then evaluate for the bottom double pair or high one.

When having a pocket hand pair pre flop higher than all value on the table, fight for the highest token.

When hitting top pair (the pair from the highest value on the table) take the highest token. You could insist once depending of first chip choice.

When hitting middle pair, take the second highest token if that's an increase from the first round. If it's the same value or below, wait for others choices. Note that it's possible that you took the highest token twice. On that case, others doesn't know you hit a pair, and you should take in consideration for future rounds.

When hitting bottom pair, wait for others choices, and then put yourself the lowest between those which improved.

When hitting nothing take the 1/2 token or one or two below your first chip.

== River and Turn advices ==
That card start to be really situationnal.

If that new card open straight and flushes, nearly any hand could goes for the highest chip immediately. Even if you got a double pair you should be careful about fighting for this highest token. Take into consideration how many straight and flushes there is. If it's really few (1 or 2) then the player which hit those should insist a lot for the highest token. That mean with a slightly weaker hand (like double pair) you could try to insist for 6. On the contrary if there is lots of straight and flushes (4 or 9+), take a lower chip more easily.

If that new card is above all others cards a new pair most likely put yourself as the best or second best hand, so take a really high chip.

If that new card is around the same value of others, take an higher chip, and let others decide where they put yourself. They know which pair you got but you don't know which pair they got.

If that new card is below all others cards, put yourself as the higher chip between those which never improved.

Note that pocket pairs can rank weirdly.

== Correcting mistakes ==
If you or someone else made a mistake that can easily be confusing.

It can be corrected naturally by someone hitting a pair, or even rarely with two pockets pairs by someone else hitting a pair.

If it's obvious what is happening you could try to correct it immediately (post flop), especially if there was some fight pre flop.

But I would advise you to let everything goes as planned, and in the final turn, still take your normal chip if the river can be confusing, and after everyone is happy with their chip, fight for the potential mistake which happened earlier. That's because when doing that, it look like to others that you hit a pair, which is extremely confusing.

==Full range and average hand pre-flop ==
This cheat sheet map recommended pre‑flop chips depending of the number of players. Use this at the table as a compact reference. Pairs are above all. All picks are '''rank‑only''' (no suits). Connector (7&8 of diamond) has no value.

''Note that even if the numbers are mathematiquely coherent, since pairs can often more easily be differenciated from A high, you could want to lower slightly the highest range. And I'm unsure the range should be uniform, maybe the range from the outside should be bigger.''

===How to read this sheet===
*5 = top, 1 = bottom.
*'''Timing cues:''' Quick pick = stronger; taking time or returning a chip = weaker. Use timing as secondary confirmation only.
*'''Use chip takes to correct misorders''' rather than arguing.
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!3 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|16.67%
|median 1 hand
|7/5
|10/4/2
|-
|33.33%
|between 1/2 chips
|9/8
|J/10/5
|-
|50%
|median 2 hand
|J/7
|K/6/3
|-
|66.67%
|between 2/3 chips
|K/2
|A/7/2
|-
|83.33%
|median 3 hand
|A/5
|2/2/7
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!4 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|12,5%
|median 1 hand
|7/2
|10/5/5
|-
|25%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/7
|J/4/3
|-
|37.5%
|median 2 hand
|10/5
|Q/6/5
|-
|50%
|between 2/3 chips
|J/7
|K/6/3
|-
|62,5%
|median 3 hand
|Q/8
|K/Q/7
|-
|75%
|between 3/4 chips
|K/9
|A/J/4
|-
|87,5%
|median 4 hand
|A/8
|5/5/10
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!5 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|10%
|median 1 hand
|6/4
|8/7/6
|-
|20%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/3
|10/7/5
|-
|30%
|median 2 hand
|9/5
|J/8/6
|-
|40%
|between 2/3 chips
|10/7
|Q/8/5
|-
|50%
|median 3 hand
|J/7
|K/6/3
|-
|60%
|between 3/4 chips
|Q/6
|K/J/8
|-
|70%
|median 4 hand
|K/5
|A/9/2
|-
|80%
|between 4/5 chips
|A/2
|A/K/3
|-
|90%
|median 5 hand
|A/10
|7/7/9
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!6 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|8,33%
|median 1 hand
|6/2
|8/6/4
|-
|16,67%
|between 1/2 chips
|7/5
|10/4/2
|-
|25%
|median 2 hand
|8/7
|J/4/3
|-
|33,33%
|between 2/3 chips
|9/8
|J/10/5
|-
|41,67%
|median 3 hand
|10/8
|Q/9/4
|-
|50%
|between 3/4 chips
|J/7
|K/6/3
|-
|58,33%
|median 4 hand
|Q/5
|K/J/2
|-
|66,67%
|between 4/5 chips
|K/2
|A/7/2
|-
|75%
|median 5 hand
|K/9
|A/J/4
|-
|83,33%
|between 5/6 chips
|A/5
|2/2/7
|-
|91,67%
|median 6 hand
|A/J
|8/8/Q
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}

== Double pairs on the table ==
When there is two pairs on the table, and you hit nothing, only your highest card count.

That mean per example with a board JJ447, and you having A6, you can play that hand as if it was A2. That mean that if there was a fight earlier and you suspect someone else having better than you, you can play your hand as if it was A2 instead of A6. If that player got A8 or KQ, they could react differently.

In that same example if you got 62, you can take the lowest chip even if you highly suspect someone else has lower than you, because your hand will be JJ447 anyway.

But the most important thing is '''pocket pairs'''. If you got 22, and the second 4 arrived in the river, then '''while your hand was probably the best one pre flop''', still was good post flop and after the turn, '''it became the worst one after the river''' because you don't have a triple pair, you have the lowest possible hand: JJ447. That mean that an 82 which probably took 1 or 2 pre flop is now beating you. And so you should fight for the 1 and insist a lot since it's often not obvious for others players.

== 4 cards of the same color on the table ==
'Obviously' on that kind of board, what you should be doing shift completely. Per example with 4 diamonds, we now ask you to rank yourself from the highest diamond card to the lowest diamond card. A hand with an Ace of spade and a 2 of diamond is now weaker than a 4 of spade and a 3 of diamond.

You first should put attention to which player potentially have 2 diamonds on their hand, it's more likely than their highest diamond card is high.

And then pay attention to potential flush house and straight, and good luck, it's like a situational pre flop situation.

If you hit nothing, don't hesitate to goes really low.


==Pre‑flop Cheat Sheet ==
This cheat sheet maps common two‑rank examples to recommended pre‑flop chips for a '''5‑player baseline''', with quick adjustment rules for '''4''' and '''6''' player games. Use this at the table as a compact reference. All picks are '''rank‑only''' (no suits).

===How to read this sheet===
*'''Chip scale (5‑player baseline):''' 5 = top, 1 = bottom.
*'''Adjust for player count:''' For '''4 players''', move each recommended chip '''up one step''' (e.g., 4 → 5). For '''6 players''', move each recommended chip '''down one step''' (e.g., 3 → 2).
*'''Pairs:''' All pocket pairs map to the pair bucket pre‑flop.
*'''Timing cues:''' Quick pick = stronger; taking time or returning a chip = weaker. Use timing as secondary confirmation only.
*'''Use chip takes to correct misorders''' rather than arguing.

{| class="wikitable sortable" style="width:100%; text-align:left;"
!Example hand
!bucket (pairs separate)
!chip (5‑player)
!Quick note / guidance
|-
|AA, KK, QQ
|Pairs
|5
|All pairs start in the pair bucket; treat uniformly pre‑flop.
|-
|AK (unsuited)
|A/K high
|4
|Strong A‑high; Chart 1 maps to chip 4, Chart 2 places in top bucket.
|-
|AQ
|A/K high
|4
|Strong A‑high; treat like AK for baseline mapping.
|-
|AJ, AT
|A/K high
|3
|Lower A‑highs; Chart 1 places lower than AK/AQ.
|-
|A9–A5
|A/K high
|3
|Weak A‑highs; Chart 1 keeps them in second/third chip range.
|-
|KQ, KJ, KT
|A/K high
|3
|Strong K‑high hands; Chart 2 groups them with K/Q.
|-
|QJ, QT
|Q/J high
|3
|Q‑J range; Chart 2 groups with K/Q for a tighter mid bucket.
|-
|JT, T9
|Q/J high
|2
|Connectors and high singletons; mid/low mid buckets.
|-
|T8, 98, 87
|10/9/8 high
|2
|Lower connectors and middling singletons; default to lower chips.
|-
|76, 65, 54, 43, 32
|7 high or lower
|1
|Bottom ranks; speculative only pre‑flop.

|}

Tips thegang

2026-05-23T10:59:46Z

Romain672: Major edit: rewrite of all later sections, and added lots of tips preflop/post flop/turn/river. And depending of what is on the table

''The following tips aren’t set-in-stone rules, but are meant to give you an idea of how communication works in this game. As a group, figure out for yourselves how you’d like to communicate best without discussing your hand.''

Do not be afraid to '''take chips away''' from other players. This is exactly how you communicate the quality of your own hand and help others to categorize you. The more the chips move, the more communication takes place.

Always evaluate the '''current state''', not how good it might still become.
'''1st Phase''': Having a pair from the start: take a high number (and higher than your first chip), otherwise evaluate the rank of your High Card.
'''From 2nd Phase''': If something was revealed in this phase that increases your rating, take a higher (or at least equally high) chip than in the previous round. This allows fellow players to draw conclusions about your specific card values.
Conversely: If nothing fitting your hand was revealed, take a chip that is 1 lower. If then no one wants to indicate a hit with a higher chip, you can return to the evaluation of the previous round.

== Introduction ==
This is a concise ''pre‑flop strategy guide'' for ''The Gang'' focused on **rank‑only** pre‑flop chip selection. It defines a simple, repeatable convention for mapping numbered chips to rank percentiles, explains why the convention helps, clarifies how '''Ace‑high''' hands should be placed so both charts work smoothly, and provides two separate, actionable mapping options you can adopt at the table.

== Core conventions to adopt ==
* '''Establish a ranking convention.''' Map each chip number to a clear percentile bucket so everyone interprets chip choices the same way.
* '''Conservative default.''' On the pre‑flop stage, default to slightly conservative picks and only escalate when community cards materially change the actual hand strength.
* '''Controlled chip theft.''' Taking another player’s chip is the only legal private signal—use it to correct obvious misrankings, not to bluff.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.''' Pre‑flop picks are based on ranks only; suitedness and flush/straight potential are ignored for the initial ranking.
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking a chip quickly signals a stronger rank; taking time to pick a chip, or picking then returning a chip, signals a weaker rank.
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.''' Base your pre‑flop chip choice exclusively on the two ranks in your hand.

== Why a percentile convention helps ==
* '''Reduces ambiguity.''' Percentiles let players interpret rankings consistently.
* '''Makes steals informative.''' A chip take becomes a clear corrective statement about percentile.
* '''Improves planning.'''
** ''' Schedule Specialists and Challenges ''' deliberately because you know which percentile buckets are likely to win or lose across rounds.
** ''' Budget risk ''' by tracking how many top‑bucket rank outcomes remain and deciding when to spend a Specialist or accept a Challenge.
** ''' Assign informal roles ''' based on predictable chip distributions.
** ''' Make corrective plays efficient: ''' a chip take can reallocate risk and reduce disputes.

== Pre‑flop decision rules (rank‑only) ==
* '''Pairs are one group.''' Treat any pocket pair as a single pre‑flop signal category for the initial chip pick.
* '''Do not consider suits at this stage.'''
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.'''
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Picking quickly = stronger; taking time = weaker.
* '''No talk; use takes to correct.'''
* '''Conservative default for speculative hands.'''
* The median hand is exactly J7.

== Simple interpertation pre flop for 5 players: ==
When suits are ignored, here is what all chips sinitially have (you have the exact hand at the middle of the page):
{| class="wikitable"
!Chips
!Group
|-
|5
|Pairs / A high
|-
|4
|K / Q high
|-
|3
|Q low / J high
|-
|2
|10/9/8 high
|-
|1
|7 high
|}

== Post flop advices ==
When hitting a double pair or better fight for the highest token. After someone steal it twice/thrice from you re-evaluate the chop to look for potential straight/flushes (note that some straight are impossible from the first chip choice). Then evaluate for the bottom double pair or high one.

When having a pocket hand pair pre flop higher than all value on the table, fight for the highest token.

When hitting top pair (the pair from the highest value on the table) take the highest token. You could insist once depending of first chip choice.

When hitting middle pair, take the second highest token if that's an increase from the first round. If it's the same value or below, wait for others choices. Note that it's possible that you took the highest token twice. On that case, others doesn't know you hit a pair, and you should take in consideration for future rounds.

When hitting bottom pair, wait for others choices, and then put yourself the lowest between those which improved.

When hitting nothing take the 1/2 token or one or two below your first chip.

== River and Turn advices ==
That card start to be really situationnal.

If that new card open straight and flushes, nearly any hand could goes for the highest chip immediately. Even if you got a double pair you should be careful about fighting for this highest token. Take into consideration how many straight and flushes there is. If it's really few (1 or 2) then the player which hit those should insist a lot for the highest token. That mean with a slightly weaker hand (like double pair) you could try to insist for 6. On the contrary if there is lots of straight and flushes (4 or 9+), take a lower chip more easily.

If that new card is above all others cards a new pair most likely put yourself as the best or second best hand, so take a really high chip.

If that new card is around the same value of others, take an higher chip, and let others decide where they put yourself. They know which pair you got but you don't know which pair they got.

If that new card is below all others cards, put yourself as the higher chip between those which never improved.

Note that pocket pairs can rank weirdly.

== Correcting mistakes ==
If you or someone else made a mistake that can easily be confusing.

It can be corrected naturally by someone hitting a pair, or even rarely with two pockets pairs by someone else hitting a pair.

If it's obvious what is happening you could try to correct it immediately (post flop), especially if there was some fight pre flop.

But I would advise you to let everything goes as planned, and in the final turn, still take your normal chip if the river can be confusing, and after everyone is happy with their chip, fight for the potential mistake which happened earlier. That's because when doing that, it look like to others that you hit a pair, which is extremely confusing.

==Full range and average hand pre-flop ==
This cheat sheet map recommended pre‑flop chips depending of the number of players. Use this at the table as a compact reference. Pairs are above all. All picks are '''rank‑only''' (no suits). Connector (7&8 of diamond) has no value.

''Note that even if the numbers are mathematiquely coherent, since pairs can often more easily be differenciated from A high, you could want to lower slightly the highest range. And I'm unsure the range should be uniform, maybe the range from the outside should be bigger.''

===How to read this sheet===
*5 = top, 1 = bottom.
*'''Timing cues:''' Quick pick = stronger; taking time or returning a chip = weaker. Use timing as secondary confirmation only.
*'''Use chip takes to correct misorders''' rather than arguing.
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!3 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|16.67%
|median 1 hand
|7/5
|10/4/2
|-
|33.33%
|between 1/2 chips
|9/8
|J/10/5
|-
|50%
|median 2 hand
|J/7
|K/6/3
|-
|66.67%
|between 2/3 chips
|K/2
|A/7/2
|-
|83.33%
|median 3 hand
|A/5
|2/2/7
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!4 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|12,5%
|median 1 hand
|7/2
|10/5/5
|-
|25%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/7
|J/4/3
|-
|37.5%
|median 2 hand
|10/5
|Q/6/5
|-
|50%
|between 2/3 chips
|J/7
|K/6/3
|-
|62,5%
|median 3 hand
|Q/8
|K/Q/7
|-
|75%
|between 3/4 chips
|K/9
|A/J/4
|-
|87,5%
|median 4 hand
|A/8
|5/5/10
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!5 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|10%
|median 1 hand
|6/4
|8/7/6
|-
|20%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/3
|10/7/5
|-
|30%
|median 2 hand
|9/5
|J/8/6
|-
|40%
|between 2/3 chips
|10/7
|Q/8/5
|-
|50%
|median 3 hand
|J/7
|K/6/3
|-
|60%
|between 3/4 chips
|Q/6
|K/J/8
|-
|70%
|median 4 hand
|K/5
|A/9/2
|-
|80%
|between 4/5 chips
|A/2
|A/K/3
|-
|90%
|median 5 hand
|A/10
|7/7/9
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!6 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|8,33%
|median 1 hand
|6/2
|8/6/4
|-
|16,67%
|between 1/2 chips
|7/5
|10/4/2
|-
|25%
|median 2 hand
|8/7
|J/4/3
|-
|33,33%
|between 2/3 chips
|9/8
|J/10/5
|-
|41,67%
|median 3 hand
|10/8
|Q/9/4
|-
|50%
|between 3/4 chips
|J/7
|K/6/3
|-
|58,33%
|median 4 hand
|Q/5
|K/J/2
|-
|66,67%
|between 4/5 chips
|K/2
|A/7/2
|-
|75%
|median 5 hand
|K/9
|A/J/4
|-
|83,33%
|between 5/6 chips
|A/5
|2/2/7
|-
|91,67%
|median 6 hand
|A/J
|8/8/Q
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}

== Double pairs on the table ==
When there is two pairs on the table, and you hit nothing, only your highest card count.

That mean per example with a board JJ447, and you having A6, you can play that hand as if it was A2. That mean that if there was a fight earlier and you suspect someone else having better than you, you can play your hand as if it was A2 instead of A6. If that player got A8 or KQ, they could react differently.

In that same example if you got 62, you can take the lowest chip even if you highly suspect someone else has lower than you, because your hand will be JJ447 anyway.

But the most important thing is '''pocket pairs'''. If you got 22, and the second 4 arrived in the river, then '''while your hand was probably the best one pre flop''', still was good post flop and after the river, '''it became the worst one after the river''' because you don't have a triple pair, you have the lowest possible hand: JJ447. That mean that an 82 which probably took 1 or 2 pre flop is now beating you. And so you should fight for the 1 and insist a lot since it's often not obvious for others players.

== 4 cards of the same color on the table ==
'Obviously' on that kind of board, what you should be doing shift completely. Per example with 4 diamonds, we now ask you to rank yourself from the highest diamond card to the lowest diamond card. A hand with an Ace of spade and a 2 of diamond is now weaker than a 4 of spade and a 3 of diamond.

You first should put attention to which player potentially have 2 diamonds on their hand, it's more likely than their highest diamond card is high.

And then pay attention to potential flush house and straight, and good luck, it's like a situational pre flop situation.

If you hit nothing, don't hesitate to goes really low.


==Pre‑flop Cheat Sheet ==
This cheat sheet maps common two‑rank examples to recommended pre‑flop chips for a '''5‑player baseline''', with quick adjustment rules for '''4''' and '''6''' player games. Use this at the table as a compact reference. All picks are '''rank‑only''' (no suits).

===How to read this sheet===
*'''Chip scale (5‑player baseline):''' 5 = top, 1 = bottom.
*'''Adjust for player count:''' For '''4 players''', move each recommended chip '''up one step''' (e.g., 4 → 5). For '''6 players''', move each recommended chip '''down one step''' (e.g., 3 → 2).
*'''Pairs:''' All pocket pairs map to the pair bucket pre‑flop.
*'''Timing cues:''' Quick pick = stronger; taking time or returning a chip = weaker. Use timing as secondary confirmation only.
*'''Use chip takes to correct misorders''' rather than arguing.

{| class="wikitable sortable" style="width:100%; text-align:left;"
!Example hand
!bucket (pairs separate)
!chip (5‑player)
!Quick note / guidance
|-
|AA, KK, QQ
|Pairs
|5
|All pairs start in the pair bucket; treat uniformly pre‑flop.
|-
|AK (unsuited)
|A/K high
|4
|Strong A‑high; Chart 1 maps to chip 4, Chart 2 places in top bucket.
|-
|AQ
|A/K high
|4
|Strong A‑high; treat like AK for baseline mapping.
|-
|AJ, AT
|A/K high
|3
|Lower A‑highs; Chart 1 places lower than AK/AQ.
|-
|A9–A5
|A/K high
|3
|Weak A‑highs; Chart 1 keeps them in second/third chip range.
|-
|KQ, KJ, KT
|A/K high
|3
|Strong K‑high hands; Chart 2 groups them with K/Q.
|-
|QJ, QT
|Q/J high
|3
|Q‑J range; Chart 2 groups with K/Q for a tighter mid bucket.
|-
|JT, T9
|Q/J high
|2
|Connectors and high singletons; mid/low mid buckets.
|-
|T8, 98, 87
|10/9/8 high
|2
|Lower connectors and middling singletons; default to lower chips.
|-
|76, 65, 54, 43, 32
|7 high or lower
|1
|Bottom ranks; speculative only pre‑flop.

|}

Tips thegang

2026-05-22T20:58:47Z

Romain672: /* In construction: full range and average hand pre-flop */

Tips thegang

2026-05-22T20:53:46Z

Romain672: /* In construction: full range and average hand pre-flop */ removed exactly

Tips thegang

2026-05-22T20:45:58Z

Romain672: /* In construction: full range and average hand pre-flop */ added 3 cards hand

Tips thegang

2026-05-22T19:58:25Z

Romain672: /* In construction: full range and average hand pre-flop */

Tips thegang

2026-05-22T19:57:20Z

Romain672: In construction: need sentences: full range and median pre flop for 3~6 players

Tips thegang

2026-05-22T18:15:22Z

Romain672: /* Pre‑flop decision rules (rank‑only) */ Added J7 as median hand

Tips tranquilitytheascent

2025-12-07T15:32:33Z

Romain672: /* When playing bridges and playing next to bridges */ +2 advanced tips

= Guiding Principles when choosing plays ___NOTOC___ =

== Consider the implications for the team. ==
This is a co-op game, so you don’t get points for having a high card count at the end when one of your teammates runs out of cards. Keep in mind the effect your plays will have on your teammates. Specifically ...
===Keep good plays available on the board===
Ideally, you want to have a set of rows to play into such that any number could be played into some row with a cost of 2 or less. This doesn't really happen, but it is a useful concept to strive for. For example, if the rightmost cards of two playable rows are 3 and 9, then the numbers from 1~5 and 7~11 are playable. In that situation, if you have the opportunity to start a new row, starting it with a number outside those ranges (a 6 or 12) is preferable to starting with a number inside those ranges (although 1, 5, 7, and 11 are also good candidates). There will inevitably be bottlenecks during play; don't fret too much about it, just do what you can to minimize them.
===Keep an eye on your teammates ===
This is especially important when the number of cards remaining to each player is unbalanced. If you find that you have far more cards then your teammates, you may need to step up and make some more expensive plays in order to subsidize their plays--push yourself to make a wider variety of plays available on the board. Remember, if '''anyone''' on your team runs out of cards, its game over for the whole team.

Sometimes you can get useful information by watching your teammates' turns. E.g. if your teammate discards for several turns before playing, there is a good chance their cards are clustered so that, once they do play, they may be able to play a similar number on their next turn. So you might want to play to keep a play near that number available. Keeping on eye on teammate plays is more important with fewer players.
===When playing bridges and playing next to bridges===
Bridges can be particularly valuable for opening up the board for your teammates. But remember that they need to be covered eventually! The cost to cover a bridge is the greater of the two differences (between each anchor and the cover), so don’t play a right-hand anchor that’s too far from the left-hand anchor. A good rule of thumb is that the cost to cover a bridge is AT LEAST half of the difference between the two anchors (round up). Ideally, the right-hand anchor should be something that’s 0-2 away from the left-anchor, 3-4 is also usually OK, but it is pretty hard to justify 5+. Also, the cover can't be the same color as either anchor, so it is easier to cover the bridge if the anchors are the same color (when you can arrange it).

(advanced) There is a situational play mostly on the first line when per example you played lots of 9/8/7s to start the game, and someone played a red7 then a bridge, and you have two 1s or multiple lows, you can play a low red card like 1red, and fill the bridge later on with a 4 and 3 discards.

Another weird play mostly in the last 'column' after a bridge is to play a really bad card, that you will move up later on with a campfire.
== Deciding Between Possible Plays ==
As a rule-of-thumb, a play costing 0-1 cards is good, 2 is OK, 3 is pushing it (but if you have a good reason...), and 4 is pretty outrageous. How do you pick the best play?
=== Teamwork is priority one ===
That's why I put that section first instead of this one. If any of your teammates can't make it to the finish line, you lose. So be mindful of what your moves may cost your teammates. At the beginning and near the end, there will naturally be fewer plays available, so moves that make more numbers playable are especially valuable! Making or keeping the board friendly to your team should always be on your mind--unless you are the one who may run out of cards before anyone else!
=== Make the cheapest plays possible ===
If you can play a matching number card, this is generally a good idea! Other zero-cost plays (bridges, anchors on bridges, & starting a new row) should be made with a bit more caution; keep in mind what your play implies for future plays. Especially when you play on the right-hand side of a bridge or the first tile of a new level, you want to consider how your play fits with the previous guiding principles, especially keeping good plays available on the board for your teammates.
If you are the one who may run out of cards and cause your team to fail, then being a team player almost certainly means making the absolute cheapest play possible. If you have a choice between cheapest plays, go with the one that will help you (and your teammates) make future plays.
=== Low numbers on low levels===
Ideally, low numbers get played on low levels and so on up the pyramid. But don't force it; there are 72 number tiles and 39 places for them in the structure--as many as half the numbered tiles won't be in the finished structure (if all three campfires are played)! So don't worry if you use all the 1s and 2s for discards. Also, generally, having a board with more playable numbers is more important than squeezing low values into the structure.
==Discards==
in general, you want to discard less useful cards over more useful ones. All else being equal, discarding low numbers is preferable to high ones and discarding 1s and 12s is preferable to numbers closer to the middle. But … what makes a useful card can be different depending on what the board looks like! So keep in mind which cards might become useful by the time your next turn rolls around.
==Peaks==
peaks can make good discards, but you’ll lose if all the peaks get discarded. To be absolutely safe, your team can adopt a strategy of only discarding a peak when you have a duplicate peak. If your team is 2-4 players, then each player can safely discard one peak before falling back to the only-when-holding-a-duplicate rule (with 2 players, each could safely discard 2 peaks).
==Campfires==
are particularly useful in the late game, when you’ve got lots of previously played cards to make use of. But you probably don’t want to discard 2 to hold a campfire for later if you have a good play you can make with it now.
==Tile distribution ==
There are two tiles with each number in each of the three colors, for a total of 72 numbered tiles. Also 3 campfire tiles, 5 bridge tiles and 5 peak tiles. Looking over the played tiles can give you an idea of what may be left in the deck (except for other players' hands and discards, which you don't see). This can be helpful when opening a new row late in the game, trying to cover a particularly troublesome bridge, or deciding whether to use a campfire.