https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/api.php?action=feedcontributions&feedformat=atom&user=Ripcity 2026-11-04T12:59:03Z User contributions MediaWiki 1.43.11 https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_spades&diff=13757 2022-06-26T06:03:23Z

<p>Ripcity: </p> <hr /> <div>Beware the bags, but it's almost always better to underbid than to overbid.<br /> <br /> If you have a lot of spades, bid higher.<br /> <br /> ===Can your partner beat a high card?===<br /> <br /> If you have the queen of one suit, there is a 55.5% chance that your partner has a card to beat it (i.e. king or an ace). So even if your hand with a queen of spades is otherwise very weak, you should not go for a nil unless you are behind by many points, as the base success rate is only 55% [you can only expect 100*0.55+(-100)*0.45=10 points from the play, and will likely saddle your partner with bags]. <br /> <br /> If you have the jack of one suit, there is a 70.3% chance that your partner has a card to beat it. <br /> <br /> If you have the ten of one suit, there is a 80.2% chance that your partner has a card to beat it.<br /> <br /> ===Who is undersuited, and by how much?===<br /> <br /> If you have two cards of one suit, there is a 3.3% chance that someone has no cards of that suit (1.1% chance that your partner has no cards in the suit, and 2.2% chance that either of your opponents has no cards in the suit); 19.2% chance that someone has only one card of the suit (6.4%, 12.8%); and 47.7% chance that someone only has two cards of the suit (16.9%, 33.8%)<br /> <br /> If you have three cards of one suit, there is a 5.1% chance that someone has no cards of that suit (1.7% chance that your partner has no cards in the suit, and 3.4% that either of your opponents has no cards in that suit); a 25.8% chance that someone has only one card of that suit (8.6%, 17.2%); and 58.5% chance that someone only has two cards of that suit (19.5%, 39%).<br /> <br /> If you have four cards of one suit, there is a 7.8% chance that someone has no cards of that suit (2.6% chance that your partner has no cards in the suit, and 5.2% that either of your opponents has no cards in that suit); a 35% chance that someone only has one card of that suit (11.7%, 33.4%); and 70% chance that someone only has two cards of that suit (23.3%, 46.6%).</div>

Ripcity https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_spades&diff=13756 2022-06-26T06:02:44Z

<p>Ripcity: </p> <hr /> <div>Beware the bags, but it's almost always better to underbid than to overbid.<br /> <br /> If you have a lot of spades, bid higher.<br /> <br /> ===Can your partner beat a high card?===<br /> <br /> If you have the queen of one suit, there is a 55.5% chance that your partner has a card to beat it (i.e. king or an ace). So even if your hand with a queen of spades is otherwise very weak, you should not go for a nil unless you are behind by many points, as the base success rate is only 55% [you can only expect 100*0.55+(-100)*0.45=10 points from the play, and will likely saddle your partner with bags]. <br /> <br /> If you have the jack of one suit, there is a 70.3% chance that your partner has a card to beat it. <br /> <br /> If you have the ten of one suit, there is a 80.2% chance that your partner has a card to beat it.<br /> <br /> ===Who is undersuited, and by how much?===<br /> <br /> If you have two cards of one suit, there is a 3.3% chance that someone has no cards of that suit (1.1% chance that your partner has no cards in the suit, and 2.2% chance that one of your opponents has no cards in the suit); 19.2% chance that someone has only one card of the suit (6.4%, 12.8%); and 47.7% chance that someone only has two cards of the suit (16.9%, 33.8%)<br /> <br /> If you have three cards of one suit, there is a 5.1% chance that someone has no cards of that suit (1.7% chance that your partner has no cards in the suit, and 3.4% that one of your opponents has no cards in that suit); a 25.8% chance that someone has only one card of that suit (8.6%, 17.2%); and 58.5% chance that someone only has two cards of that suit (19.5%, 39%).<br /> <br /> If you have four cards of one suit, there is a 7.8% chance that someone has no cards of that suit (2.6% chance that your partner has no cards in the suit, and 5.2% that one of your opponents has no cards in that suit); a 35% chance that someone only has one card of that suit (11.7%, 33.4%); and 70% chance that someone only has two cards of that suit (23.3%, 46.6%).</div>

Ripcity https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_spades&diff=13755 2022-06-26T05:53:05Z

<p>Ripcity: </p> <hr /> <div><br /> Don't go for nil if you have the ace of spades.<br /> Beware the bags!<br /> It's always better to underbid than to overbid.<br /> If you have a lot of spades you might want to bid higher.<br /> <br /> ===Can your partner beat a high card?===<br /> <br /> If you have the queen of one suit, there is a 55.5% chance that your partner has a card to beat it (i.e. king or an ace). So even if your hand with a queen of spades is otherwise very weak, you should not go for a nil unless you are behind by many points, as the base success rate is only 55% [you can only expect 100*0.55+(-100)*0.45=10 points from the play, and will likely saddle your partner with bags]. <br /> <br /> If you have the jack of one suit, there is a 70.3% chance that your partner has a card to beat it. <br /> <br /> If you have the ten of one suit, there is a 80.2% chance that your partner has a card to beat it.<br /> <br /> ===Who is undersuited, and by how much?===<br /> <br /> If you have three cards of one suit, there is a 5.4% chance that someone has no cards of that suit (1.7% chance that your partner has no cards in the suit); a 23% chance that someone has only one card of that suit (8%); and 60% chance that someone only has two cards of that suit (20%).<br /> <br /> If you have four cards of one suit, there is a 7.8% chance that someone has no cards of that suit (2.6% chance that your partner has no cards in the suit); a 34% chance that someone only has one card of that suit (11.7%); and 70% chance that someone only has two cards of that suit (23.3%).</div>

Ripcity https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_spades&diff=13754 2022-06-26T05:52:13Z

<p>Ripcity: </p> <hr /> <div><br /> Don't go for nil if you have the ace of spades.<br /> Beware the bags!<br /> It's always better to underbid than to overbid.<br /> If you have a lot of spades you might want to bid higher.<br /> <br /> ===Can your partner beat a high card?===<br /> <br /> If you have the queen of one suit, there is a 55.5% chance that your partner has a card to beat it (i.e. king or an ace). So even if your hand with a queen of spades is otherwise very weak, you should not go for a nil unless you are behind by many points, as the base success rate is only 55% [you can only expect 100*0.55+(-100)*0.45=10 points from the play, and will likely saddle your partner with bags]. <br /> <br /> If you have the jack of one suit, there is a 70.3% chance that your partner has a card to beat it. <br /> <br /> ===Who is undersuited, and by how much?===<br /> <br /> If you have three cards of one suit, there is a 5.4% chance that someone has no cards of that suit (1.7% chance that your partner has no cards in the suit); a 23% chance that someone has only one card of that suit (8%); and 60% chance that someone only has two cards of that suit (20%).<br /> <br /> If you have four cards of one suit, there is a 7.8% chance that someone has no cards of that suit (2.6% chance that your partner has no cards in the suit); a 34% chance that someone only has one card of that suit (11.7%); and 70% chance that someone only has two cards of that suit (23.3%).</div>

Ripcity https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_spades&diff=13753 2022-06-26T05:49:37Z

<p>Ripcity: </p> <hr /> <div><br /> Don't go for nil if you have the ace of spades.<br /> Beware the bags!<br /> It's always better to underbid than to overbid.<br /> If you have a lot of spades you might want to bid higher.<br /> <br /> ===Can your partner beat a high card?===<br /> <br /> If you have the queen of one suit, there is a 55.5% chance that your partner has a card to beat it (i.e. king or an ace). So even if your hand with a queen of spades is otherwise very weak, you should not go for a nil unless you are behind by many points, as the base success rate is only 55% [you can only expect 100*0.55+(-100)*0.45=10 points from the play, and will likely saddle your partner with bags]. <br /> <br /> If you have the jack of one suit, there is a 70.3% chance that your partner has a card to beat it. <br /> <br /> ===Who is undersuited?===<br /> <br /> If you have three cards of one suit, there is a 5.4% chance that someone has no cards of that suit (1.7% chance that your partner has no cards in the suit); a 23% chance that someone has only one card of that suit (8%); and 60% chance that someone only has two cards of that suit (20%).<br /> <br /> If you have four cards of one suit, there is a 7.8% chance that someone has no cards of that suit (2.6% chance that your partner has no cards in the suit); a 34% chance that someone only has one card of that suit (11.7%); and 70% chance that someone only has two cards of that suit (23.3%).</div>

Ripcity https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_spades&diff=13752 2022-06-26T05:47:46Z

<p>Ripcity: </p> <hr /> <div><br /> Don't go for nil if you have the ace of spades.<br /> Beware the bags!<br /> It's always better to underbid than to overbid.<br /> If you have a lot of spades you might want to bid higher.<br /> <br /> ==Can your partner beat a high card?==<br /> <br /> If you have the queen of one suit, there is a 55.5% chance that your partner has a card to beat it. So even if your hand with a queen of spades is otherwise very weak, you should not go for a nil unless you are behind by many points, as the success rate is only 55% [you can only expect 100*0.55+(-100)*0.45=10 points from the play, and will likely saddle your partner with bags]. <br /> <br /> If you have the jack of one suit, there is a 70.3% chance that your partner has a card to beat it. <br /> <br /> ==Who is undersuited?==<br /> <br /> If you have three cards of one suit, there is a 5.4% chance that someone has no cards of that suit (1.7% chance that your partner has no cards in the suit); a 23% chance that someone has only one card of that suit (8%); and 60% chance that someone only has two cards of that suit (20%).<br /> <br /> If you have four cards of one suit, there is a 7.8% chance that someone has no cards of that suit (2.6% chance that your partner has no cards in the suit); a 34% chance that someone only has one card of that suit (11.7%); and 70% chance that someone only has two cards of that suit (23.3%).</div>

Ripcity https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_spades&diff=13751 2022-06-26T05:46:08Z

<p>Ripcity: </p> <hr /> <div><br /> Don't go for nil if you have the ace of spades.<br /> Beware the bags!<br /> It's always better to underbid than to overbid.<br /> If you have a lot of spades you might want to bid higher.<br /> <br /> ==Can your partner beat a high card?==<br /> <br /> If you have the queen of one suit, there is a 55.5% chance that your partner has a card to beat it. So even if your hand with a queen of spades is otherwise very weak, you should not go for a nil unless you are behind by many points, as the success rate is only 55% (you can only expect 10 points from the play). <br /> <br /> If you have the jack of one suit, there is a 70.3% chance that your partner has a card to beat it. <br /> <br /> ==Who is undersuited?==<br /> <br /> If you have three cards of one suit, there is a 5.4% chance that someone has no cards of that suit (1.7% chance that your partner has no cards in the suit); a 23% chance that someone has only one card of that suit (8%); and 60% chance that someone only has two cards of that suit (20%).<br /> <br /> If you have four cards of one suit, there is a 7.8% chance that someone has no cards of that suit (2.6% chance that your partner has no cards in the suit); a 34% chance that someone only has one card of that suit (11.7%); and 70% chance that someone only has two cards of that suit (23.3%).</div>

Ripcity https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_spades&diff=13750 2022-06-26T05:45:18Z

<p>Ripcity: </p> <hr /> <div><br /> Don't go for nil if you have the ace of spades.<br /> Beware the bags!<br /> It's always better to underbid than to overbid.<br /> If you have a lot of spades you might want to bid higher.<br /> <br /> ==Can your partner beat a high card?==<br /> <br /> If you have the queen of one suit, there is a 55.5% chance that your partner has a card to beat it. <br /> <br /> --&gt; even if your hand with a queen of spades is otherwise very weak, you should not go for a nil unless you are behind by many points. <br /> <br /> If you have the jack of one suit, there is a 70.3% chance that your partner has a card to beat it. <br /> <br /> ==Who is undersuited?==<br /> <br /> If you have three cards of one suit, there is a 5.4% chance that someone has no cards of that suit (1.7% chance that your partner has no cards in the suit); a 23% chance that someone has only one card of that suit (8%); and 60% chance that someone only has two cards of that suit (20%).<br /> <br /> If you have four cards of one suit, there is a 7.8% chance that someone has no cards of that suit (2.6% chance that your partner has no cards in the suit); a 34% chance that someone only has one card of that suit (11.7%); and 70% chance that someone only has two cards of that suit (23.3%).</div>

Ripcity https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_spades&diff=13749 2022-06-26T05:42:29Z

<p>Ripcity: Added odds relevant to in-game situation</p> <hr /> <div><br /> Don't go for nil if you have the ace of spades.<br /> Beware the bags!<br /> It's always better to underbid than to overbid.<br /> If you have a lot of spades you might want to bid higher.<br /> <br /> **Can your partner beat a high card?**<br /> <br /> If you have the queen of one suit, there is a 55.5% chance that your partner has a card to beat it. <br /> If you have the jack of one suit, there is a 70.3% chance that your partner has a card to beat it. <br /> <br /> **Who is undersuited?**<br /> <br /> If you have three cards of one suit, there is a 5.4% chance that someone has no cards of that suit (1.7% chance that your partner has no cards in the suit); a 23% chance that someone has only one card of that suit (8%); and 60% chance that someone only has two cards of that suit (20%).<br /> <br /> If you have four cards of one suit, there is a 7.8% chance that someone has no cards of that suit (2.6% chance that your partner has no cards in the suit); a 34% chance that someone only has one card of that suit (11.7%); and 70% chance that someone only has two cards of that suit (23.3%).</div>

Ripcity https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_handandfoot&diff=13716 2022-06-23T21:42:59Z

<p>Ripcity: </p> <hr /> <div>Please note that these are general rules; they might not be advisable depending on the rules used, game progression, and the expertise of the players.<br /> <br /> === Game mechanics ===<br /> <br /> In one turn, you draw two cards and discard one card. You can reduce your hand size by one if you are able to play both of the cards you draw (cards already in hand + 2 drawn cards - 2 played cards - 1 discard = cards already in hand - 1). So to reduce your hand size, and ultimately reduce it to zero, you need to be able to play as many of the cards you draw as possible. To be able to play the cards you draw, you need to have melds to which cards can be added. <br /> <br /> Rummy games are very customizable, and Hand and Foot is no exception. Be sure to check the rules of the table before joining it, because you don't want to find out midway through a game that the rules don't allow a move you've been building up towards. <br /> <br /> === Melding ===<br /> <br /> Try to keep meld clean at the beginning, and then dirty up your melds later.<br /> <br /> Don't be in a rush to open by opening a bunch of dirty melds. The dirtier you open the less wilds you have for a wild meld. Wilds can be so hard to get sometimes so best not to waste them.<br /> <br /> When playing in pairs, open as soon as you can each round.<br /> <br /> The most points wins the game, so it's best to have as many clean melds as possible. The best way to catch up when behind is to have piles that are worth the most. Concentrate on wilds, then clean, then dirty. A bunch of dirty piles means you lose 200 points each pile.<br /> <br /> === Hand Management ===<br /> <br /> Watch the discards of the person after you. On future turns, you should usually discard a card that this person has already discarded.<br /> <br /> Usually, you should discard cards that the opponent has already melded. <br /> <br /> Hold onto a couple of wilds in your hand to help you get to your foot (this is after a wild meld has already been started). They go great with pairs to help you walk/run to your foot. If you get the third card for those pairs and can get to your foot, add the wilds to the wild meld.<br /> <br /> Picking up the discard pile is usually advisable early in the round. In addition to allowing you to set down a new meld, the cards picked up from the discard pile serve as cushions that help you build up as many melds as possible. That is, cards picked up from the discard pile can be discarded instead of a card from a pair that you've been hoping to turn into a meld.<br /> <br /> By picking up the discard, however, you might pick up junk cards (like the 3 of spades) that will set you back on your quest to get to your foot or go out. Attended by great benefits as well as disadvantages, whether to pick up a discard is arguably the most difficult and consequential decision in Hand and Foot. <br /> <br /> If you hold onto a pair of a meld already open, you can use them to pick up the discard pile. The discard pile can help you with completing pairs or adding cards to your singles. <br /> <br /> === Foot Management ===<br /> <br /> If you're the first partner to get to your foot and the other team isn't close to going out, don't close any melds ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven'''). The more that is closed the harder it will be for your partner to get to their foot.<br /> <br /> If you get into your foot before your partner, and the other team isn't close to going out, don't play any cards except wilds on the wild meld and new melds (no more than 3 cards).  This is to leave lots of room for your partner to get to their foot. If you top up melds to 5 or 6 cards, your partner may have 2 in hand (holding to pick up discard) or they keep picking up that number. Best to leave room for your partner to add cards. <br /> <br /> If your partner is able to walk to their foot after you have been waiting for them in yours, and you can wait, wait one more turn for them to play their foot. You could have already been adjusting your cards to be set up and giving them the chance to play a new set of cards can be very valuable.<br /> <br /> === Endgame Situation ===<br /> <br /> Complete your contract before opening a second wild meld.  However, there are some situations where it's best to open second wild before completing contact.  This can be to gain points due to being behind, you have lots of wilds in your hand and you don't want to dirty a bunch of stuff to get to your foot, etc. <br /> <br /> When almost ready to go out but your team needs 1 or 2 dirty piles, don't close all the melds with 6 cards clean until you have your 2 dirties to go out.  Too many times teams need just the dirty piles to go out but there isn't any melds ready to close with just a wild.  Not having melds ready to close dirty gives the other team time to catch up in points.<br /> <br /> Pay attention to how close the other team is ready to go out. ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven''') If they don't have wilds started, then you have time to help your partner get to their foot so don't close anything. However, if the other team has or really close to having their contract, then it's time to close things so you don't lose the points. *** HOWEVER, if you're in the last round and closing stuff doesn't get you ahead in points (or even close), then there's no point in closing melds. This will make it hard for your partner to get to their foot and there's no point as you aren't going to win without them.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Fair Play ===<br /> <br /> It's OK and in the official rules to ask your partner if you can go out. The only answer your partner should give is a yes or no. However, asking permission to go out is not a built in mechanic of the game and so it is not required. <br /> <br /> Don't give up in the last round (let alone any round before that).  The game could be close enough to still win, even if losing by 2000 or so points.  In this situation, it's best to ask your partner if you can go out before going out. </div>

Ripcity https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_handandfoot&diff=13715 2022-06-23T21:39:26Z

<p>Ripcity: </p> <hr /> <div>Please note that these are general rules; they might not be advisable depending on the rules used, game progression, and the expertise of the players.<br /> <br /> === Game mechanics ===<br /> <br /> In one turn, you draw two cards and discard one card. You can reduce your hand size by one if you are able to play both of the cards you draw (cards already in hand + 2 drawn cards - 2 played cards - 1 discard = cards already in hand - 1). So to reduce your hand size, and ultimately reduce it to zero, you need to be able to play as many of the cards you draw as possible. To be able to play the cards you draw, you need to have melds to which cards can be added. <br /> <br /> Rummy games are very customizable, and Hand and Foot is no exception. Be sure to check the rules of the table before joining it, because you don't want to find out midway through a game that the rules don't allow a move you've been building up towards. <br /> <br /> === Melding ===<br /> <br /> Try to keep meld clean at the beginning, and then dirty up your melds later.<br /> <br /> Don't be in a rush to open by opening a bunch of dirty melds. The dirtier you open the less wilds you have for a wild meld. Wilds can be so hard to get sometimes so best not to waste them.<br /> <br /> When playing in pairs, open as soon as you can each round.<br /> <br /> The most points wins the game, so it's best to have as many clean melds as possible. The best way to catch up when behind is to have piles that are worth the most. Concentrate on wilds, then clean, then dirty. A bunch of dirty piles means you lose 200 points each pile.<br /> <br /> === Hand Management ===<br /> <br /> Watch the discards of the person after you. On future turns, you should usually discard a card that this person has already discarded.<br /> <br /> Usually, you should discard cards that the opponent has already melded. <br /> <br /> Hold onto a couple of wilds in your hand to help you get to your foot (this is after a wild meld has already been started). They go great with pairs to help you walk/run to your foot. If you get the third card for those pairs and can get to your foot, add the wilds to the wild meld.<br /> <br /> Picking up the discard pile is usually advisable early in the round. In addition to allowing you to set down a new meld, the cards picked up from the discard pile serve as cushions that help you build up as many melds as possible. That is, cards picked up from the discard pile can be discarded instead of a card from a pair that you've been hoping to turn into a meld.<br /> <br /> By picking up the discard, however, you might pick up junk cards (like the 3 of spades) that will set you back on your quest to get to your foot or go out. Attended by great benefits as well as disadvantages, whether to pick up a discard is arguably the most difficult and consequential decision in Hand and Foot. <br /> <br /> If you hold onto a pair of a meld already open, you can use them to pick up the discard pile. The discard pile can help you with completing pairs or adding cards to your singles. <br /> <br /> === Foot Management ===<br /> <br /> If you're the first partner to get to your foot and the other team isn't close to going out, don't close any melds ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven'''). The more that is closed the harder it will be for your partner to get to their foot.<br /> <br /> If you get into your foot before your partner, and the other team isn't close to going out, don't play any cards except wilds on the wild meld and new melds (no more than 3 cards).  This is to leave lots of room for your partner to get to their foot. If you top up melds to 5 or 6 cards, your partner may have 2 in hand (holding to pick up discard) or they keep picking up that number. Best to leave room for your partner to add cards. <br /> <br /> If your partner is able to walk to their foot after you have been waiting for them in yours, and you can wait, wait one more turn for them to play their foot. You could have already been adjusting your cards to be set up and giving them the chance to play a new set of cards can be very valuable.<br /> <br /> === Endgame Situation ===<br /> <br /> Complete your contract before opening a second wild meld.  However, there are some situations where it's best to open second wild before completing contact.  This can be to gain points due to being behind, you have lots of wilds in your hand and you don't want to dirty a bunch of stuff to get to your foot, etc. <br /> <br /> When almost ready to go out but your team needs 1 or 2 dirty piles, don't close all the melds with 6 cards clean until you have your 2 dirties to go out.  Too many times teams need just the dirty piles to go out but there isn't any melds ready to close with just a wild.  Not having melds ready to close dirty gives the other team time to catch up in points.<br /> <br /> Pay attention to how close the other team is ready to go out. ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven''') If they don't have wilds started, then you have time to help your partner get to their foot so don't close anything. However, if the other team has or really close to having their contract, then it's time to close things so you don't lose the points. *** HOWEVER, if you're in the last round and closing stuff doesn't get you ahead in points (or even close), then there's no point in closing melds. This will make it hard for your partner to get to their foot and there's no point as you aren't going to win without them.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Fair Play ===<br /> <br /> It's OK and in the official rules to ask your partner if you can go out. The only answer your partner should give is a yes or no. However, asking permission to go out is not a built in mechanic of the game and so it is not required. <br /> <br /> Don't give up in the last round (or all rounds).  The game could be close enough to still win, even if losing by 2000 or so points.  In this situation, it's best to ask your partner if you can go out before going out. </div>

Ripcity https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_handandfoot&diff=13714 2022-06-23T21:38:48Z

<p>Ripcity: </p> <hr /> <div>Please note that these are general rules; they might not be advisable depending on the rules used, the state of the game, and the expertise of the players.<br /> <br /> === Game mechanics ===<br /> <br /> In one turn, you draw two cards and discard one card. You can reduce your hand size by one if you are able to play both of the cards you draw (cards already in hand + 2 drawn cards - 2 played cards - 1 discard = cards already in hand - 1). So to reduce your hand size, and ultimately reduce it to zero, you need to be able to play as many of the cards you draw as possible. To be able to play the cards you draw, you need to have melds to which cards can be added. <br /> <br /> Rummy games are very customizable, and Hand and Foot is no exception. Be sure to check the rules of the table before joining it, because you don't want to find out midway through a game that the rules don't allow a move you've been building up towards. <br /> <br /> === Melding ===<br /> <br /> Try to keep meld clean at the beginning, and then dirty up your melds later.<br /> <br /> Don't be in a rush to open by opening a bunch of dirty melds. The dirtier you open the less wilds you have for a wild meld. Wilds can be so hard to get sometimes so best not to waste them.<br /> <br /> When playing in pairs, open as soon as you can each round.<br /> <br /> The most points wins the game, so it's best to have as many clean melds as possible. The best way to catch up when behind is to have piles that are worth the most. Concentrate on wilds, then clean, then dirty. A bunch of dirty piles means you lose 200 points each pile.<br /> <br /> === Hand Management ===<br /> <br /> Watch the discards of the person after you. On future turns, you should usually discard a card that this person has already discarded.<br /> <br /> Usually, you should discard cards that the opponent has already melded. <br /> <br /> Hold onto a couple of wilds in your hand to help you get to your foot (this is after a wild meld has already been started). They go great with pairs to help you walk/run to your foot. If you get the third card for those pairs and can get to your foot, add the wilds to the wild meld.<br /> <br /> Picking up the discard pile is usually advisable early in the round. In addition to allowing you to set down a new meld, the cards picked up from the discard pile serve as cushions that help you build up as many melds as possible. That is, cards picked up from the discard pile can be discarded instead of a card from a pair that you've been hoping to turn into a meld.<br /> <br /> By picking up the discard, however, you might pick up junk cards (like the 3 of spades) that will set you back on your quest to get to your foot or go out. Attended by great benefits as well as disadvantages, whether to pick up a discard is arguably the most difficult and consequential decision in Hand and Foot. <br /> <br /> If you hold onto a pair of a meld already open, you can use them to pick up the discard pile. The discard pile can help you with completing pairs or adding cards to your singles. <br /> <br /> === Foot Management ===<br /> <br /> If you're the first partner to get to your foot and the other team isn't close to going out, don't close any melds ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven'''). The more that is closed the harder it will be for your partner to get to their foot.<br /> <br /> If you get into your foot before your partner, and the other team isn't close to going out, don't play any cards except wilds on the wild meld and new melds (no more than 3 cards).  This is to leave lots of room for your partner to get to their foot. If you top up melds to 5 or 6 cards, your partner may have 2 in hand (holding to pick up discard) or they keep picking up that number. Best to leave room for your partner to add cards. <br /> <br /> If your partner is able to walk to their foot after you have been waiting for them in yours, and you can wait, wait one more turn for them to play their foot. You could have already been adjusting your cards to be set up and giving them the chance to play a new set of cards can be very valuable.<br /> <br /> === Endgame Situation ===<br /> <br /> Complete your contract before opening a second wild meld.  However, there are some situations where it's best to open second wild before completing contact.  This can be to gain points due to being behind, you have lots of wilds in your hand and you don't want to dirty a bunch of stuff to get to your foot, etc. <br /> <br /> When almost ready to go out but your team needs 1 or 2 dirty piles, don't close all the melds with 6 cards clean until you have your 2 dirties to go out.  Too many times teams need just the dirty piles to go out but there isn't any melds ready to close with just a wild.  Not having melds ready to close dirty gives the other team time to catch up in points.<br /> <br /> Pay attention to how close the other team is ready to go out. ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven''') If they don't have wilds started, then you have time to help your partner get to their foot so don't close anything. However, if the other team has or really close to having their contract, then it's time to close things so you don't lose the points. *** HOWEVER, if you're in the last round and closing stuff doesn't get you ahead in points (or even close), then there's no point in closing melds. This will make it hard for your partner to get to their foot and there's no point as you aren't going to win without them.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Fair Play ===<br /> <br /> It's OK and in the official rules to ask your partner if you can go out. The only answer your partner should give is a yes or no. However, asking permission to go out is not a built in mechanic of the game and so it is not required. <br /> <br /> Don't give up in the last round (or all rounds).  The game could be close enough to still win, even if losing by 2000 or so points.  In this situation, it's best to ask your partner if you can go out before going out. </div>

Ripcity https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_handandfoot&diff=13713 2022-06-23T21:36:51Z

<p>Ripcity: </p> <hr /> <div>Please note that these are general rules; they might not be advisable depending on the rules used, the state of the game, and the expertise of the players.<br /> <br /> === Game mechanics ===<br /> <br /> In one turn, you draw two cards and discard one card. You can reduce your hand size by one if you are able to play both of the cards you draw (cards already in hand + 2 drawn cards - 2 played cards - 1 discard = cards already in hand - 1). So to reduce your hand size, and ultimately reduce it to zero, you need to be able to play as many of the cards you draw as possible. To be able to play the cards you draw, you need to have melds to which cards can be added. <br /> <br /> Rummy games are very customizable, and Hand and Foot is no exception. Be sure to check the rules of the table before joining it, because you don't want to find out midway through a game that the rules don't allow a move you've been building up towards. <br /> <br /> === Melding ===<br /> <br /> Try to keep meld clean at the beginning, and then dirty up your melds later.<br /> <br /> Don't be in a rush to open by opening a bunch of dirty melds. The dirtier you open the less wilds you have for a wild meld. Wilds can be so hard to get sometimes so best not to waste them.<br /> <br /> When playing in pairs, open as soon as you can each round.<br /> <br /> The most points wins the game, so it's best to have as many clean melds as possible. The best way to catch up when behind is to have piles that are worth the most. Concentrate on wilds, then clean, then dirty. A bunch of dirty piles means you lose 200 points each pile.<br /> <br /> === Hand Management ===<br /> <br /> Watch the discards of the person after you. On future turns, you should usually discard a card that this person has already discarded.<br /> <br /> Usually, it is best to discard cards that the opponent has already melded. <br /> <br /> Hold onto a couple of wilds in your hand to help you get to your foot (this is after a wild meld has already been started). They go great with pairs to help you walk/run to your foot. If you get the third card for those pairs and can get to your foot, add the wilds to the wild meld.<br /> <br /> Picking up the discard pile is usually advisable early in the round. In addition to allowing you to set down a new meld, the cards picked up from the discard pile serve as cushions that help you build up as many melds as possible. That is, cards picked up from the discard pile can be discarded instead of a card from a pair that you've been hoping to turn into a meld.<br /> <br /> By picking up the discard, however, you might pick up junk cards (like the 3 of spades) that will set you back on your quest to get to your foot or go out. Attended by great benefits as well as disadvantages, whether to pick up a discard is arguably the most difficult and consequential decision in Hand and Foot. <br /> <br /> If you hold onto a pair of a meld already open, you can use them to pick up the discard pile. The discard pile can help you with completing pairs or adding cards to your singles. <br /> <br /> === Foot Management ===<br /> <br /> If you're the first partner to get to your foot and the other team isn't close to going out, don't close any melds ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven'''). The more that is closed the harder it will be for your partner to get to their foot.<br /> <br /> If you get into your foot before your partner, and the other team isn't close to going out, don't play any cards except wilds on the wild meld and new melds (no more than 3 cards).  This is to leave lots of room for your partner to get to their foot. If you top up melds to 5 or 6 cards, your partner may have 2 in hand (holding to pick up discard) or they keep picking up that number. Best to leave room for your partner to add cards. <br /> <br /> If your partner is able to walk to their foot after you have been waiting for them in yours, and you can wait, wait one more turn for them to play their foot. You could have already been adjusting your cards to be set up and giving them the chance to play a new set of cards can be very valuable.<br /> <br /> === Endgame Situation ===<br /> <br /> Complete your contract before opening a second wild meld.  However, there are some situations where it's best to open second wild before completing contact.  This can be to gain points due to being behind, you have lots of wilds in your hand and you don't want to dirty a bunch of stuff to get to your foot, etc. <br /> <br /> When almost ready to go out but your team needs 1 or 2 dirty piles, don't close all the melds with 6 cards clean until you have your 2 dirties to go out.  Too many times teams need just the dirty piles to go out but there isn't any melds ready to close with just a wild.  Not having melds ready to close dirty gives the other team time to catch up in points.<br /> <br /> Pay attention to how close the other team is ready to go out. ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven''') If they don't have wilds started, then you have time to help your partner get to their foot so don't close anything. However, if the other team has or really close to having their contract, then it's time to close things so you don't lose the points. *** HOWEVER, if you're in the last round and closing stuff doesn't get you ahead in points (or even close), then there's no point in closing melds. This will make it hard for your partner to get to their foot and there's no point as you aren't going to win without them.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Fair Play ===<br /> <br /> It's OK and in the official rules to ask your partner if you can go out. The only answer your partner should give is a yes or no. However, asking permission to go out is not a built in mechanic of the game and so it is not required. <br /> <br /> Don't give up in the last round (or all rounds).  The game could be close enough to still win, even if losing by 2000 or so points.  In this situation, it's best to ask your partner if you can go out before going out. </div>

Ripcity https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_handandfoot&diff=13712 2022-06-23T21:32:03Z

<p>Ripcity: </p> <hr /> <div>Please note that these are general rules; they might not be advisable depending on the rules used, the state of the game, and the expertise of the players.<br /> <br /> === Game mechanics ===<br /> <br /> In one turn, you draw two cards and discard one card. You can reduce your hand size by one if you are able to play both of the cards you draw (cards already in hand + 2 drawn cards - 2 played cards - 1 discard = cards already in hand - 1). So to reduce your hand size, and ultimately reduce it to zero, you need to be able to play as many of the cards you draw as possible. To be able to play the cards you draw, you need to have melds to which cards can be added. <br /> <br /> Rummy games are very customizable, and Hand and Foot is no exception. Be sure to check the rules of the table before joining it, because you don't want to find out midway through a game that the rules don't allow a move you've been building up towards. <br /> <br /> === Melding ===<br /> <br /> Try to keep meld clean at the beginning, and then dirty up your melds later.<br /> <br /> Don't be in a rush to open by opening a bunch of dirty melds. The dirtier you open the less wilds you have for a wild meld. Wilds can be so hard to get sometimes so best not to waste them.<br /> <br /> When playing in pairs, open as soon as you can each round.<br /> <br /> The most points wins the game, so it's best to have as many clean melds as possible. The best way to catch up when behind is to have piles that are worth the most. Concentrate on wilds, then clean, then dirty. A bunch of dirty piles means you lose 200 points each pile.<br /> <br /> === Hand Management ===<br /> <br /> Watch the discards of the person after you. On future turns, you should usually discard a card that this person has already discarded.<br /> <br /> Usually, it is best to discard cards that the opponent has already melded. <br /> <br /> Hold onto a couple of wilds in your hand to help you get to your foot (this is after a wild meld has already been started). They go great with pairs to help you walk/run to your foot. If you get the third card for those pairs and can get to your foot, add the wilds to the wild meld.<br /> <br /> Early in the round, it's usually advisable to pick up the discard pile. In addition to allowing you to set down a new meld, the cards picked up from the discard pile serve as cushions that help you build up as many melds as possible. That is, cards picked up from the discard pile can be discarded instead of a card from a pair that you've been hoping to turn into a meld.<br /> <br /> By picking up the discard, however, you might pick up junk cards (like the 3 of spades) that will set you back on your quest to get to your foot or go out.<br /> <br /> If you hold onto a pair of a meld already open, you can use them to pick up the discard pile. The discard pile can help you with completing pairs or adding cards to your singles. <br /> <br /> === Foot Management ===<br /> <br /> If you're the first partner to get to your foot and the other team isn't close to going out, don't close any melds ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven'''). The more that is closed the harder it will be for your partner to get to their foot.<br /> <br /> If you get into your foot before your partner, and the other team isn't close to going out, don't play any cards except wilds on the wild meld and new melds (no more than 3 cards).  This is to leave lots of room for your partner to get to their foot. If you top up melds to 5 or 6 cards, your partner may have 2 in hand (holding to pick up discard) or they keep picking up that number. Best to leave room for your partner to add cards. <br /> <br /> If your partner is able to walk to their foot after you have been waiting for them in yours, and you can wait, wait one more turn for them to play their foot. You could have already been adjusting your cards to be set up and giving them the chance to play a new set of cards can be very valuable.<br /> <br /> === Endgame Situation ===<br /> <br /> Complete your contract before opening a second wild meld.  However, there are some situations where it's best to open second wild before completing contact.  This can be to gain points due to being behind, you have lots of wilds in your hand and you don't want to dirty a bunch of stuff to get to your foot, etc. <br /> <br /> When almost ready to go out but your team needs 1 or 2 dirty piles, don't close all the melds with 6 cards clean until you have your 2 dirties to go out.  Too many times teams need just the dirty piles to go out but there isn't any melds ready to close with just a wild.  Not having melds ready to close dirty gives the other team time to catch up in points.<br /> <br /> Pay attention to how close the other team is ready to go out. ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven''') If they don't have wilds started, then you have time to help your partner get to their foot so don't close anything. However, if the other team has or really close to having their contract, then it's time to close things so you don't lose the points. *** HOWEVER, if you're in the last round and closing stuff doesn't get you ahead in points (or even close), then there's no point in closing melds. This will make it hard for your partner to get to their foot and there's no point as you aren't going to win without them.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Fair Play ===<br /> <br /> It's OK and in the official rules to ask your partner if you can go out. The only answer your partner should give is a yes or no. However, asking permission to go out is not a built in mechanic of the game and so it is not required. <br /> <br /> Don't give up in the last round (or all rounds).  The game could be close enough to still win, even if losing by 2000 or so points.  In this situation, it's best to ask your partner if you can go out before going out. </div>

Ripcity https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_handandfoot&diff=13711 2022-06-23T21:30:08Z

<p>Ripcity: </p> <hr /> <div>Please note that these are general rules; they might not be advisable depending on the rules used, the state of the game, and the expertise of the players.<br /> <br /> === Game mechanics ===<br /> <br /> In one turn, you draw two cards and discard one card. You can reduce your hand size by one if you are able to play both of the cards you draw (cards already in hand + 2 drawn cards - 2 played cards - 1 discard = cards already in hand - 1). So to reduce your hand size, and ultimately reduce it to zero, you need to be able to play as many of the cards you draw as possible. To be able to play the cards you draw, you need to have melds to which cards can be added. <br /> <br /> Rummy games are very customizable, and Hand and Foot is no exception. Be sure to check the rules of the table before joining it, because you don't want to find out midway through a game that the rules don't allow a move you've been building up towards. <br /> <br /> === Melding ===<br /> <br /> Try to keep meld clean at the beginning, and then dirty up your melds later.<br /> <br /> Don't be in a rush to open by opening a bunch of dirty melds. The dirtier you open the less wilds you have for a wild meld. Wilds can be so hard to get sometimes so best not to waste them.<br /> <br /> When playing in pairs, open as soon as you can each round.<br /> <br /> The most points wins the game, so it's best to have as many clean melds as possible. The best way to catch up when behind is to have piles that are worth the most. Concentrate on wilds, then clean, then dirty. A bunch of dirty piles means you lose 200 points each pile.<br /> <br /> === Hand Management ===<br /> <br /> Watch the discards of the person after you. On future turns, you should usually discard a card that this person has already discarded.<br /> <br /> Usually, it is best to discard cards that the opponent has already melded. <br /> <br /> Hold onto a couple of wilds in your hand to help you get to your foot (this is after a wild meld has already been started). They go great with pairs to help you walk/run to your foot. If you get the third card for those pairs and can get to your foot, add the wilds to the wild meld.<br /> <br /> Early in the round, it's usually advisable to pick up the discard pile. In addition to allowing you to set down a new meld, the cards picked up from the discard pile serve as cushions that help you build up as many melds as possible. That is, cards picked up from the discard pile can be discarded instead of a card from a pair that you've been hoping to turn into a meld.<br /> <br /> If you hold onto a pair of a meld already open, you can use them to pick up the discard pile. The discard pile can help you with completing pairs or adding cards to your singles. <br /> <br /> === Foot Management ===<br /> <br /> If you're the first partner to get to your foot and the other team isn't close to going out, don't close any melds ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven'''). The more that is closed the harder it will be for your partner to get to their foot.<br /> <br /> If you get into your foot before your partner, and the other team isn't close to going out, don't play any cards except wilds on the wild meld and new melds (no more than 3 cards).  This is to leave lots of room for your partner to get to their foot. If you top up melds to 5 or 6 cards, your partner may have 2 in hand (holding to pick up discard) or they keep picking up that number. Best to leave room for your partner to add cards. <br /> <br /> If your partner is able to walk to their foot after you have been waiting for them in yours, and you can wait, wait one more turn for them to play their foot. You could have already been adjusting your cards to be set up and giving them the chance to play a new set of cards can be very valuable.<br /> <br /> === Endgame Situation ===<br /> <br /> Complete your contract before opening a second wild meld.  However, there are some situations where it's best to open second wild before completing contact.  This can be to gain points due to being behind, you have lots of wilds in your hand and you don't want to dirty a bunch of stuff to get to your foot, etc. <br /> <br /> When almost ready to go out but your team needs 1 or 2 dirty piles, don't close all the melds with 6 cards clean until you have your 2 dirties to go out.  Too many times teams need just the dirty piles to go out but there isn't any melds ready to close with just a wild.  Not having melds ready to close dirty gives the other team time to catch up in points.<br /> <br /> Pay attention to how close the other team is ready to go out. ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven''') If they don't have wilds started, then you have time to help your partner get to their foot so don't close anything. However, if the other team has or really close to having their contract, then it's time to close things so you don't lose the points. *** HOWEVER, if you're in the last round and closing stuff doesn't get you ahead in points (or even close), then there's no point in closing melds. This will make it hard for your partner to get to their foot and there's no point as you aren't going to win without them.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Fair Play ===<br /> <br /> It's OK and in the official rules to ask your partner if you can go out. The only answer your partner should give is a yes or no. However, asking permission to go out is not a built in mechanic of the game and so it is not required. <br /> <br /> Don't give up in the last round (or all rounds).  The game could be close enough to still win, even if losing by 2000 or so points.  In this situation, it's best to ask your partner if you can go out before going out. </div>

Ripcity https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_handandfoot&diff=13709 2022-06-23T21:28:05Z

<p>Ripcity: </p> <hr /> <div>Please note that these are general rules; they might not be advisable depending on the rules used, the state of the game, and the expertise of the players.<br /> <br /> === Game mechanics ===<br /> <br /> In one turn, you draw two cards and discard one card. You can reduce your hand size by one if you are able to play both of the cards you draw (cards already in hand + 2 drawn cards - 2 played cards - 1 discard = cards already in hand - 1). So to reduce your hand size, and ultimately reduce it to zero, you need to be able to play as many of the cards you draw as possible. To be able to play the cards you draw, you need to have melds to which cards can be added. <br /> <br /> Rummy games are very customizable, and Hand and Foot is no exception. Be sure to check the rules of the table before joining it, because you don't want to find out midway through a game that the rules don't allow a move you've been building up towards. <br /> <br /> === Melding ===<br /> <br /> Try to keep meld clean at the beginning, and then dirty up your melds later.<br /> <br /> Don't be in a rush to open by opening a bunch of dirty melds. The dirtier you open the less wilds you have for a wild meld. Wilds can be so hard to get sometimes so best not to waste them.<br /> <br /> When playing in pairs, open as soon as you can each round.<br /> <br /> The most points wins the game, so it's best to have as many clean melds as possible. The best way to catch up when behind is to have piles that are worth the most. Concentrate on wilds, then clean, then dirty. A bunch of dirty piles means you lose 200 points each pile.<br /> <br /> === Hand Management ===<br /> <br /> Watch the discards of the person after you. On future turns, you should usually discard a card that this person has already discarded.<br /> <br /> Usually, it is best to discard cards that the opponent has already melded. <br /> <br /> Hold onto a couple of wilds in your hand to help you get to your foot (this is after a wild meld has already been started). They go great with pairs to help you walk/run to your foot. If you get the third card for those pairs and can get to your foot, add the wilds to the wild meld.<br /> <br /> Early in the round, it's usually advisable to pick up the discard pile. In addition to allowing you to set down a new meld, the cards picked up from the discard pile serve as cushions that help you build up as many melds as possible. That is, cards picked up from the discard pile can be discarded instead of a <br /> <br /> If you hold onto a pair of a meld already open, you can use them to pick up the discard pile. The discard pile can help you with completing pairs or adding cards to your singles. <br /> <br /> === Foot Management ===<br /> <br /> If you're the first partner to get to your foot and the other team isn't close to going out, don't close any melds ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven'''). The more that is closed the harder it will be for your partner to get to their foot.<br /> <br /> If you get into your foot before your partner, and the other team isn't close to going out, don't play any cards except wilds on the wild meld and new melds (no more than 3 cards).  This is to leave lots of room for your partner to get to their foot. If you top up melds to 5 or 6 cards, your partner may have 2 in hand (holding to pick up discard) or they keep picking up that number. Best to leave room for your partner to add cards. <br /> <br /> If your partner is able to walk to their foot after you have been waiting for them in yours, and you can wait, wait one more turn for them to play their foot. You could have already been adjusting your cards to be set up and giving them the chance to play a new set of cards can be very valuable.<br /> <br /> === Endgame Situation ===<br /> <br /> Complete your contract before opening a second wild meld.  However, there are some situations where it's best to open second wild before completing contact.  This can be to gain points due to being behind, you have lots of wilds in your hand and you don't want to dirty a bunch of stuff to get to your foot, etc. <br /> <br /> When almost ready to go out but your team needs 1 or 2 dirty piles, don't close all the melds with 6 cards clean until you have your 2 dirties to go out.  Too many times teams need just the dirty piles to go out but there isn't any melds ready to close with just a wild.  Not having melds ready to close dirty gives the other team time to catch up in points.<br /> <br /> Pay attention to how close the other team is ready to go out. ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven''') If they don't have wilds started, then you have time to help your partner get to their foot so don't close anything. However, if the other team has or really close to having their contract, then it's time to close things so you don't lose the points. *** HOWEVER, if you're in the last round and closing stuff doesn't get you ahead in points (or even close), then there's no point in closing melds. This will make it hard for your partner to get to their foot and there's no point as you aren't going to win without them.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Fair Play ===<br /> <br /> It's OK and in the official rules to ask your partner if you can go out. The only answer your partner should give is a yes or no. However, asking permission to go out is not a built in mechanic of the game and so it is not required. <br /> <br /> Don't give up in the last round (or all rounds).  The game could be close enough to still win, even if losing by 2000 or so points.  In this situation, it's best to ask your partner if you can go out before going out. </div>

Ripcity https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_handandfoot&diff=13701 2022-06-23T06:24:05Z

<p>Ripcity: </p> <hr /> <div>=== Game mechanics ===<br /> <br /> In one turn, you draw two cards and discard one card. You can reduce your hand size by one if you are able to play both of the cards you draw (cards already in hand + 2 drawn cards - 2 played cards - 1 discard = cards already in hand - 1). So to reduce your hand size, and ultimately reduce it to zero, you need to be able to play as many of the cards you draw as possible. To be able to play the cards you draw, you need to have melds to which cards can be added. <br /> <br /> Rummy games are very customizable, and Hand and Foot is no exception. Be sure to check the rules of the table before joining it, because you don't want to find out midway through a game that the rules don't allow a move you've been building up towards. <br /> <br /> === Melding ===<br /> <br /> Try to keep meld clean at the beginning, and then dirty up your melds later.<br /> <br /> Don't be in a rush to open by opening a bunch of dirty melds. The dirtier you open the less wilds you have for a wild meld. Wilds can be so hard to get sometimes so best not to waste them.<br /> <br /> When playing in pairs, open as soon as you can each round.<br /> <br /> The most points wins the game, so it's best to have as many clean melds as possible. The best way to catch up when behind is to have piles that are worth the most. Concentrate on wilds, then clean, then dirty. A bunch of dirty piles means you lose 200 points each pile.<br /> <br /> === Hand Management ===<br /> <br /> Watch the discards of the person after you. On future turns, you should usually discard a card that this person has already discarded.<br /> <br /> Usually, it is best to discard cards that the opponent has already melded. <br /> <br /> Hold onto a couple of wilds in your hand to help you get to your foot (this is after a wild meld has already been started). They go great with pairs to help you walk/run to your foot. If you get the third card for those pairs and can get to your foot, add the wilds to the wild meld.<br /> <br /> Early in the round, it's usually advisable to pick up the discard pile. In addition to allowing you to set down a new meld, the cards picked up from the discard pile serve as cushions that help you build up as many melds as possible. That is, cards picked up from the discard pile can be discarded instead of a <br /> <br /> If you hold onto a pair of a meld already open, you can use them to pick up the discard pile. The discard pile can help you with completing pairs or adding cards to your singles. <br /> <br /> === Foot Management ===<br /> <br /> If you're the first partner to get to your foot and the other team isn't close to going out, don't close any melds ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven'''). The more that is closed the harder it will be for your partner to get to their foot.<br /> <br /> If you get into your foot before your partner, and the other team isn't close to going out, don't play any cards except wilds on the wild meld and new melds (no more than 3 cards).  This is to leave lots of room for your partner to get to their foot. If you top up melds to 5 or 6 cards, your partner may have 2 in hand (holding to pick up discard) or they keep picking up that number. Best to leave room for your partner to add cards. <br /> <br /> If your partner is able to walk to their foot after you have been waiting for them in yours, and you can wait, wait one more turn for them to play their foot. You could have already been adjusting your cards to be set up and giving them the chance to play a new set of cards can be very valuable.<br /> <br /> === Endgame Situation ===<br /> <br /> Complete your contract before opening a second wild meld.  However, there are some situations where it's best to open second wild before completing contact.  This can be to gain points due to being behind, you have lots of wilds in your hand and you don't want to dirty a bunch of stuff to get to your foot, etc. <br /> <br /> When almost ready to go out but your team needs 1 or 2 dirty piles, don't close all the melds with 6 cards clean until you have your 2 dirties to go out.  Too many times teams need just the dirty piles to go out but there isn't any melds ready to close with just a wild.  Not having melds ready to close dirty gives the other team time to catch up in points.<br /> <br /> Pay attention to how close the other team is ready to go out. ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven''') If they don't have wilds started, then you have time to help your partner get to their foot so don't close anything. However, if the other team has or really close to having their contract, then it's time to close things so you don't lose the points. *** HOWEVER, if you're in the last round and closing stuff doesn't get you ahead in points (or even close), then there's no point in closing melds. This will make it hard for your partner to get to their foot and there's no point as you aren't going to win without them.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Fair Play ===<br /> <br /> It's OK and in the official rules to ask your partner if you can go out. The only answer your partner should give is a yes or no. However, asking permission to go out is not a built in mechanic of the game and so it is not required. <br /> <br /> Don't give up in the last round (or all rounds).  The game could be close enough to still win, even if losing by 2000 or so points.  In this situation, it's best to ask your partner if you can go out before going out. </div>

Ripcity https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_handandfoot&diff=13700 2022-06-23T06:23:46Z

<p>Ripcity: </p> <hr /> <div>=== Game mechanics ===<br /> <br /> In one turn, you draw two cards and discard one card. You can reduce your hand size by one if you are able to play both of the cards you draw (cards already in hand + 2 drawn cards - 2 played cards - 1 discard = cards already in hand - 1). So to reduce your hand size, and ultimately reduce it to zero, you need to be able to play as many of the cards you draw as possible. To be able to play the cards you draw, you need to have melds to which cards can be added. <br /> <br /> Rummy games are very customizable, and Hand and Foot is no exception. Be sure to check the rules of the table before joining it, because you don't want to find out midway through a game that the rules don't allow a move you've been building up towards. <br /> <br /> === Melding ===<br /> <br /> Try to keep meld clean at the beginning, and then dirty up your melds later.<br /> <br /> Don't be in a rush to open by opening a bunch of dirty melds. The dirtier you open the less wilds you have for a wild meld. Wilds can be so hard to get sometimes so best not to waste them.<br /> <br /> When playing in pairs, open as soon as you can each round.<br /> <br /> The most points wins the game, so it's best to have as many clean melds as possible. The best way to catch up when behind is to have piles that are worth the most. Concentrate on wilds, then clean, then dirty. A bunch of dirty piles means you lose 200 points each pile.<br /> <br /> === Hand Management ===<br /> <br /> Watch the discards of the person after you. On future turns, you should usually discard a card that this person has already discarded.<br /> <br /> Usually, it is best to discard cards that the opponent has already melded. <br /> <br /> Hold onto a couple of wilds in your hand to help you get to your foot (this is after a wild meld has already been started). They go great with pairs to help you walk/run to your foot. If you get the third card for those pairs and can get to your foot, add the wilds to the wild meld.<br /> <br /> Early in the round, it's usually advisable to pick up the discard pile. In addition to allowing you to set down a new meld, the cards picked up from the discard pile serve as cushions that help you build up as many melds as possible. That is, cards picked up from the discard pile can be discarded instead of a <br /> <br /> If you hold onto a pair of a meld already open, you can use them to pick up the discard pile. The discard pile can help you with completing pairs or adding cards to your singles. <br /> <br /> === Foot Management ===<br /> <br /> * If you're the first partner to get to your foot and the other team isn't close to going out, don't close any melds ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven'''). The more that is closed the harder it will be for your partner to get to their foot.<br /> <br /> * If you get into your foot before your partner, and the other team isn't close to going out, don't play any cards except wilds on the wild meld and new melds (no more than 3 cards).  This is to leave lots of room for your partner to get to their foot. If you top up melds to 5 or 6 cards, your partner may have 2 in hand (holding to pick up discard) or they keep picking up that number. Best to leave room for your partner to add cards. <br /> <br /> * If your partner is able to walk to their foot after you have been waiting for them in yours, and you can wait, wait one more turn for them to play their foot. You could have already been adjusting your cards to be set up and giving them the chance to play a new set of cards can be very valuable.<br /> <br /> === Endgame Situation ===<br /> <br /> Complete your contract before opening a second wild meld.  However, there are some situations where it's best to open second wild before completing contact.  This can be to gain points due to being behind, you have lots of wilds in your hand and you don't want to dirty a bunch of stuff to get to your foot, etc. <br /> <br /> When almost ready to go out but your team needs 1 or 2 dirty piles, don't close all the melds with 6 cards clean until you have your 2 dirties to go out.  Too many times teams need just the dirty piles to go out but there isn't any melds ready to close with just a wild.  Not having melds ready to close dirty gives the other team time to catch up in points.<br /> <br /> Pay attention to how close the other team is ready to go out. ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven''') If they don't have wilds started, then you have time to help your partner get to their foot so don't close anything. However, if the other team has or really close to having their contract, then it's time to close things so you don't lose the points. *** HOWEVER, if you're in the last round and closing stuff doesn't get you ahead in points (or even close), then there's no point in closing melds. This will make it hard for your partner to get to their foot and there's no point as you aren't going to win without them.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Fair Play ===<br /> <br /> It's OK and in the official rules to ask your partner if you can go out. The only answer your partner should give is a yes or no. However, asking permission to go out is not a built in mechanic of the game and so it is not required. <br /> <br /> Don't give up in the last round (or all rounds).  The game could be close enough to still win, even if losing by 2000 or so points.  In this situation, it's best to ask your partner if you can go out before going out. </div>

Ripcity https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_handandfoot&diff=13697 2022-06-22T20:47:23Z

<p>Ripcity: </p> <hr /> <div>=== Game mechanics ===<br /> <br /> * In one turn, you draw two cards and discard one card. You can reduce your hand size by one if you are able to play both of the cards you draw (cards already in hand + 2 drawn cards - 2 played cards - 1 discard = cards already in hand - 1). So to reduce your hand size, and ultimately reduce it to zero, you need to be able to play as many of the cards you draw as possible. To be able to play the cards you draw, you need to have melds to which cards can be added. <br /> <br /> * Rummy games are very customizable, and Hand and Foot is no exception. Be sure to check the rules of the table before joining it, because you don't want to find out midway through a game that the rules don't allow a move you've been building up towards. <br /> <br /> === Melding ===<br /> <br /> * Try to keep meld clean at the beginning, and then dirty up your melds later.<br /> <br /> * Don't be in a rush to open by opening a bunch of dirty melds. The dirtier you open the less wilds you have for a wild meld. Wilds can be so hard to get sometimes so best not to waste them.<br /> <br /> * When playing in pairs, open as soon as you can each round.<br /> <br /> * The most points wins the game, so it's best to have as many clean melds as possible. The best way to catch up when behind is to have piles that are worth the most. Concentrate on wilds, then clean, then dirty. A bunch of dirty piles means you lose 200 points each pile.<br /> <br /> === Hand Management ===<br /> <br /> * Watch the discards of the person after you. On future turns, you should usually discard a card that this person has already discarded.<br /> <br /> * Usually, it is best to discard cards that the opponent has already melded. <br /> <br /> * Hold onto a couple of wilds in your hand to help you get to your foot (this is after a wild meld has already been started). They go great with pairs to help you walk/run to your foot. If you get the third card for those pairs and can get to your foot, add the wilds to the wild meld.<br /> <br /> * Early in the round, it's usually advisable to pick up the discard pile. In addition to allowing you to set down a new meld, the cards picked up from the discard pile serve as cushions that help you build up as many melds as possible. That is, cards picked up from the discard pile can be discarded instead of a <br /> <br /> *If you hold onto a pair of a meld already open, you can use them to pick up the discard pile. The discard pile can help you with completing pairs or adding cards to your singles. <br /> <br /> === Foot Management ===<br /> <br /> * If you're the first partner to get to your foot and the other team isn't close to going out, don't close any melds ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven'''). The more that is closed the harder it will be for your partner to get to their foot.<br /> <br /> * If you get into your foot before your partner, and the other team isn't close to going out, don't play any cards except wilds on the wild meld and new melds (no more than 3 cards).  This is to leave lots of room for your partner to get to their foot. If you top up melds to 5 or 6 cards, your partner may have 2 in hand (holding to pick up discard) or they keep picking up that number. Best to leave room for your partner to add cards. <br /> <br /> * If your partner is able to walk to their foot after you have been waiting for them in yours, and you can wait, wait one more turn for them to play their foot. You could have already been adjusting your cards to be set up and giving them the chance to play a new set of cards can be very valuable.<br /> <br /> === Endgame Situation ===<br /> <br /> * Complete your contract before opening a second wild meld.  However, there are some situations where it's best to open second wild before completing contact.  This can be to gain points due to being behind, you have lots of wilds in your hand and you don't want to dirty a bunch of stuff to get to your foot, etc. <br /> <br /> * When almost ready to go out but your team needs 1 or 2 dirty piles, don't close all the melds with 6 cards clean until you have your 2 dirties to go out.  Too many times teams need just the dirty piles to go out but there isn't any melds ready to close with just a wild.  Not having melds ready to close dirty gives the other team time to catch up in points.<br /> <br /> * Pay attention to how close the other team is ready to go out. ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven''') If they don't have wilds started, then you have time to help your partner get to their foot so don't close anything. However, if the other team has or really close to having their contract, then it's time to close things so you don't lose the points. *** HOWEVER, if you're in the last round and closing stuff doesn't get you ahead in points (or even close), then there's no point in closing melds. This will make it hard for your partner to get to their foot and there's no point as you aren't going to win without them.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Fair Play ===<br /> <br /> * It's OK and in the official rules to ask your partner if you can go out. The only answer your partner should give is a yes or no. However, asking permission to go out is not a built in mechanic of the game and so it is not required. <br /> <br /> * Don't give up in the last round (or all rounds).  The game could be close enough to still win, even if losing by 2000 or so points.  In this situation, it's best to ask your partner if you can go out before going out. </div>

Ripcity https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_handandfoot&diff=13696 2022-06-22T20:41:09Z

<p>Ripcity: </p> <hr /> <div>=== Game mechanics ===<br /> <br /> * In one turn, you draw two cards and discard one card. You can reduce your hand size by one if you are able to play both of the cards you draw (cards already in hand + 2 drawn cards - 2 played cards - 1 discard = cards already in hand - 1). So to reduce your hand size, and ultimately reduce it to zero, you need to be able to play as many of the cards you draw as possible. To be able to play the cards you draw, you need to have melds to which cards can be added. <br /> <br /> * Rummy games are very customizable, and Hand and Foot is no exception. Be sure to check the rules of the table before joining it, because you don't want to find out midway through a game that the rules don't allow a move you've been building up towards. <br /> <br /> === Melding ===<br /> <br /> * Try to keep meld clean at the beginning, and then dirty up your melds later.<br /> <br /> * Don't be in a rush to open by opening a bunch of dirty melds. The dirtier you open the less wilds you have for a wild meld. Wilds can be so hard to get sometimes so best not to waste them.<br /> <br /> * When playing in pairs, open as soon as you can each round.<br /> <br /> * The most points wins the game, so it's best to have as many clean melds as possible. The best way to catch up when behind is to have piles that are worth the most. Concentrate on wilds, then clean, then dirty. A bunch of dirty piles means you lose 200 points each pile.<br /> <br /> === Hand Management ===<br /> <br /> * Watch the discards of the person after you. This will help you decide what to discard next turn. <br /> <br /> * Hold onto a couple of wilds in your hand to help you get to your foot (this is after a wild meld has already been started). They go great with pairs to help you walk/run to your foot. If you get the third card for those pairs and can get to your foot, add the wilds to the wild meld.<br /> <br /> * Early in the round, it's usually advisable to pick up the discard pile.<br /> <br /> *If you hold onto a pair of a meld already open, you can use them to pick up the discard pile. The discard pile can help you with completing pairs or adding cards to your singles. <br /> <br /> === Foot Management ===<br /> <br /> * If you're the first partner to get to your foot and the other team isn't close to going out, don't close any melds ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven'''). The more that is closed the harder it will be for your partner to get to their foot.<br /> <br /> * If you get into your foot before your partner, and the other team isn't close to going out, don't play any cards except wilds on the wild meld and new melds (no more than 3 cards).  This is to leave lots of room for your partner to get to their foot. If you top up melds to 5 or 6 cards, your partner may have 2 in hand (holding to pick up discard) or they keep picking up that number. Best to leave room for your partner to add cards. <br /> <br /> * If your partner is able to walk to their foot after you have been waiting for them in yours, and you can wait, wait one more turn for them to play their foot. You could have already been adjusting your cards to be set up and giving them the chance to play a new set of cards can be very valuable.<br /> <br /> === Endgame Situation ===<br /> <br /> * Complete your contract before opening a second wild meld.  However, there are some situations where it's best to open second wild before completing contact.  This can be to gain points due to being behind, you have lots of wilds in your hand and you don't want to dirty a bunch of stuff to get to your foot, etc. <br /> <br /> * When almost ready to go out but your team needs 1 or 2 dirty piles, don't close all the melds with 6 cards clean until you have your 2 dirties to go out.  Too many times teams need just the dirty piles to go out but there isn't any melds ready to close with just a wild.  Not having melds ready to close dirty gives the other team time to catch up in points.<br /> <br /> * Pay attention to how close the other team is ready to go out. ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven''') If they don't have wilds started, then you have time to help your partner get to their foot so don't close anything. However, if the other team has or really close to having their contract, then it's time to close things so you don't lose the points. *** HOWEVER, if you're in the last round and closing stuff doesn't get you ahead in points (or even close), then there's no point in closing melds. This will make it hard for your partner to get to their foot and there's no point as you aren't going to win without them.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Fair Play ===<br /> <br /> * It's OK and in the official rules to ask your partner if you can go out. The only answer your partner should give is a yes or no. However, asking permission to go out is not a built in mechanic of the game and so it is not required. <br /> <br /> * Don't give up in the last round (or all rounds).  The game could be close enough to still win, even if losing by 2000 or so points.  In this situation, it's best to ask your partner if you can go out before going out. </div>

Ripcity https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_handandfoot&diff=13695 2022-06-22T20:40:17Z

<p>Ripcity: </p> <hr /> <div>=== Game mechanics ===<br /> <br /> * In one turn, you draw two cards and discard one card. You can reduce your hand size by one if you are able to play both of the cards you draw (cards already in hand + 2 drawn cards - 2 played cards - 1 discard = cards already in hand - 1). So to reduce your hand size to zero, you need to be able to play as many of the cards you draw as possible. To be able to play the cards you draw, you need to have melds to which cards can be added. <br /> <br /> * Rummy games are very customizable, and Hand and Foot is no exception. Be sure to check the rules of the table before joining it, because you don't want to find out midway through a game that the rules don't allow a move you've been building up towards. <br /> <br /> === Melding ===<br /> <br /> * Try to keep meld clean at the beginning, and then dirty up your melds later.<br /> <br /> * Don't be in a rush to open by opening a bunch of dirty melds. The dirtier you open the less wilds you have for a wild meld. Wilds can be so hard to get sometimes so best not to waste them.<br /> <br /> * When playing in pairs, open as soon as you can each round.<br /> <br /> * The most points wins the game, so it's best to have as many clean melds as possible. The best way to catch up when behind is to have piles that are worth the most. Concentrate on wilds, then clean, then dirty. A bunch of dirty piles means you lose 200 points each pile.<br /> <br /> === Hand Management ===<br /> <br /> * Watch the discards of the person after you. This will help you decide what to discard next turn. <br /> <br /> * Hold onto a couple of wilds in your hand to help you get to your foot (this is after a wild meld has already been started). They go great with pairs to help you walk/run to your foot. If you get the third card for those pairs and can get to your foot, add the wilds to the wild meld.<br /> <br /> * Early in the round, it's usually advisable to pick up the discard pile.<br /> <br /> *If you hold onto a pair of a meld already open, you can use them to pick up the discard pile. The discard pile can help you with completing pairs or adding cards to your singles. <br /> <br /> === Foot Management ===<br /> <br /> * If you're the first partner to get to your foot and the other team isn't close to going out, don't close any melds ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven'''). The more that is closed the harder it will be for your partner to get to their foot.<br /> <br /> * If you get into your foot before your partner, and the other team isn't close to going out, don't play any cards except wilds on the wild meld and new melds (no more than 3 cards).  This is to leave lots of room for your partner to get to their foot. If you top up melds to 5 or 6 cards, your partner may have 2 in hand (holding to pick up discard) or they keep picking up that number. Best to leave room for your partner to add cards. <br /> <br /> * If your partner is able to walk to their foot after you have been waiting for them in yours, and you can wait, wait one more turn for them to play their foot. You could have already been adjusting your cards to be set up and giving them the chance to play a new set of cards can be very valuable.<br /> <br /> === Endgame Situation ===<br /> <br /> * Complete your contract before opening a second wild meld.  However, there are some situations where it's best to open second wild before completing contact.  This can be to gain points due to being behind, you have lots of wilds in your hand and you don't want to dirty a bunch of stuff to get to your foot, etc. <br /> <br /> * When almost ready to go out but your team needs 1 or 2 dirty piles, don't close all the melds with 6 cards clean until you have your 2 dirties to go out.  Too many times teams need just the dirty piles to go out but there isn't any melds ready to close with just a wild.  Not having melds ready to close dirty gives the other team time to catch up in points.<br /> <br /> * Pay attention to how close the other team is ready to go out. ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven''') If they don't have wilds started, then you have time to help your partner get to their foot so don't close anything. However, if the other team has or really close to having their contract, then it's time to close things so you don't lose the points. *** HOWEVER, if you're in the last round and closing stuff doesn't get you ahead in points (or even close), then there's no point in closing melds. This will make it hard for your partner to get to their foot and there's no point as you aren't going to win without them.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Fair Play ===<br /> <br /> * It's OK and in the official rules to ask your partner if you can go out. The only answer your partner should give is a yes or no. However, asking permission to go out is not a built in mechanic of the game and so it is not required. <br /> <br /> * Don't give up in the last round (or all rounds).  The game could be close enough to still win, even if losing by 2000 or so points.  In this situation, it's best to ask your partner if you can go out before going out. </div>

Ripcity https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_handandfoot&diff=13694 2022-06-22T20:37:34Z

<p>Ripcity: </p> <hr /> <div>=== Game mechanics ===<br /> <br /> * In one turn, you draw two cards and discard one card. You can reduce your hand size by one only if you are able to play both of the cards you draw (cards already in hand +2 drawn cards - 2 played cards - 1 discards = cards already in hand - 1). So to reduce your hand size to zero, you need to be able to play as many of the cards you draw as possible. To be able to play the cards you draw, you need to have melds to which cards can be added. <br /> <br /> * Rummy games are very customizable, and Hand and Foot is no exception. Be sure to check the rules of the table before joining it, because you don't want to find out midway through the game that the rules don't allow something you've been building up towards. <br /> <br /> === Melding ===<br /> <br /> * Try to keep meld clean at the beginning, and then dirty up your melds later.<br /> <br /> * Don't be in a rush to open by opening a bunch of dirty melds. The dirtier you open the less wilds you have for a wild meld. Wilds can be so hard to get sometimes so best not to waste them.<br /> <br /> * When playing in pairs, open as soon as you can each round.<br /> <br /> * The most points wins the game, so it's best to have as many clean melds as possible. The best way to catch up when behind is to have piles that are worth the most. Concentrate on wilds, then clean, then dirty. A bunch of dirty piles means you lose 200 points each pile.<br /> <br /> === Hand Management ===<br /> <br /> * Watch the discards of the person after you. This will help you decide what to discard next turn. <br /> <br /> * Hold onto a couple of wilds in your hand to help you get to your foot (this is after a wild meld has already been started). They go great with pairs to help you walk/run to your foot. If you get the third card for those pairs and can get to your foot, add the wilds to the wild meld.<br /> <br /> * Early in the round, it's usually advisable to pick up the discard pile.<br /> <br /> *If you hold onto a pair of a meld already open, you can use them to pick up the discard pile. The discard pile can help you with completing pairs or adding cards to your singles. <br /> <br /> === Foot Management ===<br /> <br /> * If you're the first partner to get to your foot and the other team isn't close to going out, don't close any melds ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven'''). The more that is closed the harder it will be for your partner to get to their foot.<br /> <br /> * If you get into your foot before your partner, and the other team isn't close to going out, don't play any cards except wilds on the wild meld and new melds (no more than 3 cards).  This is to leave lots of room for your partner to get to their foot. If you top up melds to 5 or 6 cards, your partner may have 2 in hand (holding to pick up discard) or they keep picking up that number. Best to leave room for your partner to add cards. <br /> <br /> * If your partner is able to walk to their foot after you have been waiting for them in yours, and you can wait, wait one more turn for them to play their foot. You could have already been adjusting your cards to be set up and giving them the chance to play a new set of cards can be very valuable.<br /> <br /> === Endgame Situation ===<br /> <br /> * Complete your contract before opening a second wild meld.  However, there are some situations where it's best to open second wild before completing contact.  This can be to gain points due to being behind, you have lots of wilds in your hand and you don't want to dirty a bunch of stuff to get to your foot, etc. <br /> <br /> * When almost ready to go out but your team needs 1 or 2 dirty piles, don't close all the melds with 6 cards clean until you have your 2 dirties to go out.  Too many times teams need just the dirty piles to go out but there isn't any melds ready to close with just a wild.  Not having melds ready to close dirty gives the other team time to catch up in points.<br /> <br /> * Pay attention to how close the other team is ready to go out. ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven''') If they don't have wilds started, then you have time to help your partner get to their foot so don't close anything. However, if the other team has or really close to having their contract, then it's time to close things so you don't lose the points. *** HOWEVER, if you're in the last round and closing stuff doesn't get you ahead in points (or even close), then there's no point in closing melds. This will make it hard for your partner to get to their foot and there's no point as you aren't going to win without them.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Fair Play ===<br /> <br /> * It's OK and in the official rules to ask your partner if you can go out. The only answer your partner should give is a yes or no. However, asking permission to go out is not a built in mechanic of the game and so it is not required. <br /> <br /> * Don't give up in the last round (or all rounds).  The game could be close enough to still win, even if losing by 2000 or so points.  In this situation, it's best to ask your partner if you can go out before going out. </div>

Ripcity https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_handandfoot&diff=13693 2022-06-22T20:36:40Z

<p>Ripcity: </p> <hr /> <div>=== Game mechanics ===<br /> <br /> * In one turn, you draw two cards and discard one card. Only if you play both of the cards you draw can you reduce your hand size by one (cards already in hand +2 drawn cards - 2 played cards - 1 discards = cards already in hand - 1). So to reduce your hand size to zero, you need to be able to play as many of the cards you draw as possible. To be able to play the cards you draw, you need to have melds to which cards can be added. <br /> <br /> * Rummy games are very customizable, and Hand and Foot is no exception. Be sure to check the rules of the table before joining it, because you don't want to find out midway through the game that the rules don't allow something you've been building up towards. <br /> <br /> === Melding ===<br /> <br /> * Try to keep meld clean at the beginning, and then dirty up your melds later.<br /> <br /> * Don't be in a rush to open by opening a bunch of dirty melds. The dirtier you open the less wilds you have for a wild meld. Wilds can be so hard to get sometimes so best not to waste them.<br /> <br /> * When playing in pairs, open as soon as you can each round.<br /> <br /> * The most points wins the game, so it's best to have as many clean melds as possible. The best way to catch up when behind is to have piles that are worth the most. Concentrate on wilds, then clean, then dirty. A bunch of dirty piles means you lose 200 points each pile.<br /> <br /> === Hand Management ===<br /> <br /> * Watch the discards of the person after you. This will help you decide what to discard next turn. <br /> <br /> * Hold onto a couple of wilds in your hand to help you get to your foot (this is after a wild meld has already been started). They go great with pairs to help you walk/run to your foot. If you get the third card for those pairs and can get to your foot, add the wilds to the wild meld.<br /> <br /> * Early in the round, it's usually advisable to pick up the discard pile.<br /> <br /> *If you hold onto a pair of a meld already open, you can use them to pick up the discard pile. The discard pile can help you with completing pairs or adding cards to your singles. <br /> <br /> === Foot Management ===<br /> <br /> * If you're the first partner to get to your foot and the other team isn't close to going out, don't close any melds ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven'''). The more that is closed the harder it will be for your partner to get to their foot.<br /> <br /> * If you get into your foot before your partner, and the other team isn't close to going out, don't play any cards except wilds on the wild meld and new melds (no more than 3 cards).  This is to leave lots of room for your partner to get to their foot. If you top up melds to 5 or 6 cards, your partner may have 2 in hand (holding to pick up discard) or they keep picking up that number. Best to leave room for your partner to add cards. <br /> <br /> * If your partner is able to walk to their foot after you have been waiting for them in yours, and you can wait, wait one more turn for them to play their foot. You could have already been adjusting your cards to be set up and giving them the chance to play a new set of cards can be very valuable.<br /> <br /> === Endgame Situation ===<br /> <br /> * Complete your contract before opening a second wild meld.  However, there are some situations where it's best to open second wild before completing contact.  This can be to gain points due to being behind, you have lots of wilds in your hand and you don't want to dirty a bunch of stuff to get to your foot, etc. <br /> <br /> * When almost ready to go out but your team needs 1 or 2 dirty piles, don't close all the melds with 6 cards clean until you have your 2 dirties to go out.  Too many times teams need just the dirty piles to go out but there isn't any melds ready to close with just a wild.  Not having melds ready to close dirty gives the other team time to catch up in points.<br /> <br /> * Pay attention to how close the other team is ready to go out. ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven''') If they don't have wilds started, then you have time to help your partner get to their foot so don't close anything. However, if the other team has or really close to having their contract, then it's time to close things so you don't lose the points. *** HOWEVER, if you're in the last round and closing stuff doesn't get you ahead in points (or even close), then there's no point in closing melds. This will make it hard for your partner to get to their foot and there's no point as you aren't going to win without them.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Fair Play ===<br /> <br /> * It's OK and in the official rules to ask your partner if you can go out. The only answer your partner should give is a yes or no. However, asking permission to go out is not a built in mechanic of the game and so it is not required. <br /> <br /> * Don't give up in the last round (or all rounds).  The game could be close enough to still win, even if losing by 2000 or so points.  In this situation, it's best to ask your partner if you can go out before going out. </div>

Ripcity https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_handandfoot&diff=13692 2022-06-22T20:35:51Z

<p>Ripcity: </p> <hr /> <div>=== Game mechanics ===<br /> <br /> * In one turn, you draw two cards and discard one card. Only if you play both of the cards you draw, can you reduce your hand size by one (cards already in hand +2 drawn cards - 2 played cards - 1 discards = cards already in hand - 1). So to reduce your hand size to zero, you need to be able to play as many of the cards you draw as possible. To be able to play the cards you draw, you need to have melds to which cards can be added. <br /> <br /> * Rummy games are very customizable, and Hand and Foot is no exception. Be sure to check the rules of the table before joining it, because you don't want to find out midway through the game that the rules don't allow something you've been building up towards. <br /> <br /> === Melding ===<br /> <br /> * Try to keep meld clean at the beginning, and then dirty up your melds later.<br /> <br /> * Don't be in a rush to open by opening a bunch of dirty melds. The dirtier you open the less wilds you have for a wild meld. Wilds can be so hard to get sometimes so best not to waste them.<br /> <br /> * When playing in pairs, open as soon as you can each round.<br /> <br /> * The most points wins the game, so it's best to have as many clean melds as possible. The best way to catch up when behind is to have piles that are worth the most. Concentrate on wilds, then clean, then dirty. A bunch of dirty piles means you lose 200 points each pile.<br /> <br /> === Hand Management ===<br /> <br /> * Watch the discards of the person after you. This will help you decide what to discard next turn. <br /> <br /> * Hold onto a couple of wilds in your hand to help you get to your foot (this is after a wild meld has already been started). They go great with pairs to help you walk/run to your foot. If you get the third card for those pairs and can get to your foot, add the wilds to the wild meld.<br /> <br /> * Early in the round, it's usually advisable to pick up the discard pile.<br /> <br /> *If you hold onto a pair of a meld already open, you can use them to pick up the discard pile. The discard pile can help you with completing pairs or adding cards to your singles. <br /> <br /> === Foot Management ===<br /> <br /> * If you're the first partner to get to your foot and the other team isn't close to going out, don't close any melds ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven'''). The more that is closed the harder it will be for your partner to get to their foot.<br /> <br /> * If you get into your foot before your partner, and the other team isn't close to going out, don't play any cards except wilds on the wild meld and new melds (no more than 3 cards).  This is to leave lots of room for your partner to get to their foot. If you top up melds to 5 or 6 cards, your partner may have 2 in hand (holding to pick up discard) or they keep picking up that number. Best to leave room for your partner to add cards. <br /> <br /> * If your partner is able to walk to their foot after you have been waiting for them in yours, and you can wait, wait one more turn for them to play their foot. You could have already been adjusting your cards to be set up and giving them the chance to play a new set of cards can be very valuable.<br /> <br /> === Endgame Situation ===<br /> <br /> * Complete your contract before opening a second wild meld.  However, there are some situations where it's best to open second wild before completing contact.  This can be to gain points due to being behind, you have lots of wilds in your hand and you don't want to dirty a bunch of stuff to get to your foot, etc. <br /> <br /> * When almost ready to go out but your team needs 1 or 2 dirty piles, don't close all the melds with 6 cards clean until you have your 2 dirties to go out.  Too many times teams need just the dirty piles to go out but there isn't any melds ready to close with just a wild.  Not having melds ready to close dirty gives the other team time to catch up in points.<br /> <br /> * Pay attention to how close the other team is ready to go out. ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven''') If they don't have wilds started, then you have time to help your partner get to their foot so don't close anything. However, if the other team has or really close to having their contract, then it's time to close things so you don't lose the points. *** HOWEVER, if you're in the last round and closing stuff doesn't get you ahead in points (or even close), then there's no point in closing melds. This will make it hard for your partner to get to their foot and there's no point as you aren't going to win without them.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Fair Play ===<br /> <br /> * It's OK and in the official rules to ask your partner if you can go out. The only answer your partner should give is a yes or no. However, asking permission to go out is not a built in mechanic of the game and so it is not required. <br /> <br /> * Don't give up in the last round (or all rounds).  The game could be close enough to still win, even if losing by 2000 or so points.  In this situation, it's best to ask your partner if you can go out before going out. </div>

Ripcity https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_handandfoot&diff=13691 2022-06-22T20:35:20Z

<p>Ripcity: </p> <hr /> <div>=== Game mechanics ===<br /> <br /> * In one turn, you draw two cards and discard one card. If you play both of the cards you draw, your hand size decreases by one (cards already in hand +2 drawn cards - 2 played cards - 1 discards = cards already in hand - 1). So to reduce your hand size to zero, you need to be able to play as many of the cards you draw as possible. To be able to play the cards you draw, you need to have melds to which cards can be added. <br /> <br /> * Rummy games are very customizable, and Hand and Foot is no exception. Be sure to check the rules of the table before joining it, because you don't want to find out midway through the game that the rules don't allow something you've been building up towards. <br /> <br /> === Melding ===<br /> <br /> * Try to keep meld clean at the beginning, and then dirty up your melds later.<br /> <br /> * Don't be in a rush to open by opening a bunch of dirty melds. The dirtier you open the less wilds you have for a wild meld. Wilds can be so hard to get sometimes so best not to waste them.<br /> <br /> * When playing in pairs, open as soon as you can each round.<br /> <br /> * The most points wins the game, so it's best to have as many clean melds as possible. The best way to catch up when behind is to have piles that are worth the most. Concentrate on wilds, then clean, then dirty. A bunch of dirty piles means you lose 200 points each pile.<br /> <br /> === Hand Management ===<br /> <br /> * Watch the discards of the person after you. This will help you decide what to discard next turn. <br /> <br /> * Hold onto a couple of wilds in your hand to help you get to your foot (this is after a wild meld has already been started). They go great with pairs to help you walk/run to your foot. If you get the third card for those pairs and can get to your foot, add the wilds to the wild meld.<br /> <br /> * Early in the round, it's usually advisable to pick up the discard pile.<br /> <br /> *If you hold onto a pair of a meld already open, you can use them to pick up the discard pile. The discard pile can help you with completing pairs or adding cards to your singles. <br /> <br /> === Foot Management ===<br /> <br /> * If you're the first partner to get to your foot and the other team isn't close to going out, don't close any melds ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven'''). The more that is closed the harder it will be for your partner to get to their foot.<br /> <br /> * If you get into your foot before your partner, and the other team isn't close to going out, don't play any cards except wilds on the wild meld and new melds (no more than 3 cards).  This is to leave lots of room for your partner to get to their foot. If you top up melds to 5 or 6 cards, your partner may have 2 in hand (holding to pick up discard) or they keep picking up that number. Best to leave room for your partner to add cards. <br /> <br /> * If your partner is able to walk to their foot after you have been waiting for them in yours, and you can wait, wait one more turn for them to play their foot. You could have already been adjusting your cards to be set up and giving them the chance to play a new set of cards can be very valuable.<br /> <br /> === Endgame Situation ===<br /> <br /> * Complete your contract before opening a second wild meld.  However, there are some situations where it's best to open second wild before completing contact.  This can be to gain points due to being behind, you have lots of wilds in your hand and you don't want to dirty a bunch of stuff to get to your foot, etc. <br /> <br /> * When almost ready to go out but your team needs 1 or 2 dirty piles, don't close all the melds with 6 cards clean until you have your 2 dirties to go out.  Too many times teams need just the dirty piles to go out but there isn't any melds ready to close with just a wild.  Not having melds ready to close dirty gives the other team time to catch up in points.<br /> <br /> * Pay attention to how close the other team is ready to go out. ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven''') If they don't have wilds started, then you have time to help your partner get to their foot so don't close anything. However, if the other team has or really close to having their contract, then it's time to close things so you don't lose the points. *** HOWEVER, if you're in the last round and closing stuff doesn't get you ahead in points (or even close), then there's no point in closing melds. This will make it hard for your partner to get to their foot and there's no point as you aren't going to win without them.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Fair Play ===<br /> <br /> * It's OK and in the official rules to ask your partner if you can go out. The only answer your partner should give is a yes or no. However, asking permission to go out is not a built in mechanic of the game and so it is not required. <br /> <br /> * Don't give up in the last round (or all rounds).  The game could be close enough to still win, even if losing by 2000 or so points.  In this situation, it's best to ask your partner if you can go out before going out. </div>

Ripcity https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_handandfoot&diff=13690 2022-06-22T20:02:22Z

<p>Ripcity: </p> <hr /> <div>=== Melding ===<br /> <br /> * Try to keep meld clean at the beginning, and then dirty up your melds later.<br /> <br /> * Don't be in a rush to open by opening a bunch of dirty melds. The dirtier you open the less wilds you have for a wild meld. Wilds can be so hard to get sometimes so best not to waste them.<br /> <br /> * When playing in pairs, open as soon as you can each round.<br /> <br /> * The most points wins the game, so it's best to have as many clean melds as possible. The best way to catch up when behind is to have piles that are worth the most. Concentrate on wilds, then clean, then dirty. A bunch of dirty piles means you lose 200 points each pile.<br /> <br /> === Hand Management ===<br /> <br /> * Watch the discards of the person after you. This will help you decide what to discard next turn. <br /> <br /> * Hold onto a couple of wilds in your hand to help you get to your foot (this is after a wild meld has already been started). They go great with pairs to help you walk/run to your foot. If you get the third card for those pairs and can get to your foot, add the wilds to the wild meld.<br /> <br /> * Early in the round, it's usually advisable to pick up the discard pile.<br /> <br /> *If you hold onto a pair of a meld already open, you can use them to pick up the discard pile. The discard pile can help you with completing pairs or adding cards to your singles. <br /> <br /> === Foot Management ===<br /> <br /> * If you're the first partner to get to your foot and the other team isn't close to going out, don't close any melds ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven'''). The more that is closed the harder it will be for your partner to get to their foot.<br /> <br /> * If you get into your foot before your partner, and the other team isn't close to going out, don't play any cards except wilds on the wild meld and new melds (no more than 3 cards).  This is to leave lots of room for your partner to get to their foot. If you top up melds to 5 or 6 cards, your partner may have 2 in hand (holding to pick up discard) or they keep picking up that number. Best to leave room for your partner to add cards. <br /> <br /> * If your partner is able to walk to their foot after you have been waiting for them in yours, and you can wait, wait one more turn for them to play their foot. You could have already been adjusting your cards to be set up and giving them the chance to play a new set of cards can be very valuable.<br /> <br /> === Endgame Situation ===<br /> <br /> * Complete your contract before opening a second wild meld.  However, there are some situations where it's best to open second wild before completing contact.  This can be to gain points due to being behind, you have lots of wilds in your hand and you don't want to dirty a bunch of stuff to get to your foot, etc. <br /> <br /> * When almost ready to go out but your team needs 1 or 2 dirty piles, don't close all the melds with 6 cards clean until you have your 2 dirties to go out.  Too many times teams need just the dirty piles to go out but there isn't any melds ready to close with just a wild.  Not having melds ready to close dirty gives the other team time to catch up in points.<br /> <br /> * Pay attention to how close the other team is ready to go out. ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven''') If they don't have wilds started, then you have time to help your partner get to their foot so don't close anything. However, if the other team has or really close to having their contract, then it's time to close things so you don't lose the points. *** HOWEVER, if you're in the last round and closing stuff doesn't get you ahead in points (or even close), then there's no point in closing melds. This will make it hard for your partner to get to their foot and there's no point as you aren't going to win without them.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Fair Play ===<br /> <br /> * It's OK and in the official rules to ask your partner if you can go out. The only answer your partner should give is a yes or no. However, asking permission to go out is not a built in mechanic of the game and so it is not required. <br /> <br /> * Don't give up in the last round (or all rounds).  The game could be close enough to still win, even if losing by 2000 or so points.  In this situation, it's best to ask your partner if you can go out before going out. </div>

Ripcity https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_handandfoot&diff=13689 2022-06-22T20:02:04Z

<p>Ripcity: </p> <hr /> <div>=== Melding ===<br /> <br /> * Try to keep meld clean at the beginning, and then dirty up your melds later.<br /> <br /> * Don't be in a rush to open by opening a bunch of dirty melds. The dirtier you open the less wilds you have for a wild meld. Wilds can be so hard to get sometimes so best not to waste them.<br /> <br /> * When playing in pairs, open as soon as you can each round.<br /> <br /> * The most points wins the game, so it's best to have as many clean melds as possible. The best way to catch up when behind is to have piles that are worth the most. Concentrate on wilds, then clean, then dirty. A bunch of dirty piles means you lose 200 points each pile.<br /> <br /> === Hand Management ===<br /> <br /> * Watch the discards of the person after you. This will help you decide what to discard next turn. <br /> <br /> * Hold onto a couple of wilds in your hand to help you get to your foot (this is after a wild meld has already been started). They go great with pairs to help you walk/run to your foot. If you get the third card for those pairs and can get to your foot, add the wilds to the wild meld.<br /> <br /> * Early in the round, it's usually advisable to pick up the discard pile.<br /> <br /> *If you hold onto a pair of a meld already open, you can use them to pick up the discard pile. The discard pile can help you with completing pairs or adding cards to your singles. <br /> <br /> === Foot Management ===<br /> <br /> * If you're the first partner to get to your foot and the other team isn't close to going out, don't close any melds ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven'''). The more that is closed the harder it will be for your partner to get to their foot.<br /> <br /> * If you get into your foot before your partner, and the other team isn't close to going out, don't play any cards except wilds on the wild meld and new melds (no more than 3 cards).  This is to leave lots of room for your partner to get to their foot. If you top up melds to 5 or 6 cards, your partner may have 2 in hand (holding to pick up discard) or they keep picking up that number. Best to leave room for your partner to add cards. <br /> <br /> * If your partner is able to walk to their foot after you have been waiting for them in yours, and you can wait, wait one more turn for them to play their foot. You could have already been adjusting your cards to be set up and giving them the chance to play a new set of cards can be very valuable.<br /> <br /> === Endgame Situation ===<br /> <br /> * Complete your contract before opening a second wild meld.  However, there are some situations where it's best to open second wild before completing contact.  This can be to gain points due to being behind, you have lots of wilds in your hand and you don't want to dirty a bunch of stuff to get to your foot, etc. <br /> <br /> * When almost ready to go out but your team needs 1 or 2 dirty piles, don't close all the melds with 6 cards clean until you have your 2 dirties to go out.  Too many times teams need just the dirty piles to go out but there isn't any melds ready to close with just a wild.  Not having melds ready to close dirty gives the other team time to catch up in points.<br /> <br /> * Pay attention to how close the other team is ready to go out. ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven''') If they don't have wilds started, then you have time to help your partner get to their foot so don't close anything. However, if the other team has or really close to having their contract, then it's time to close things so you don't lose the points. *** HOWEVER, if you're in the last round and closing stuff doesn't get you ahead in points (or even close), then there's no point in closing melds. This will make it hard for your partner to get to their foot and there's no point as you aren't going to win without them.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Fair Play ===<br /> <br /> * It's OK and in the official rules to ask your partner if you can go out. The only answer your partner should give is a yes or no. However, asking permission to go out is not a built in mechanic of the game and so it is not required. <br /> <br /> * Don't give up in the last round (or all rounds).  The game could be close enough to still win, even if losing by 2000 or so points.  In this situation, it's best to ask your partner if you can go out before going out. </div>

Ripcity https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_handandfoot&diff=13688 2022-06-22T20:00:43Z

<p>Ripcity: Added headings to make it easier to read</p> <hr /> <div>=== Melding ===<br /> <br /> * Try to keep meld clean at the beginning, and then dirty up your melds later.<br /> <br /> * Don't be in a rush to open by opening a bunch of dirty melds. The dirtier you open the less wilds you have for a wild meld. Wilds can be so hard to get sometimes so best not to waste them.<br /> <br /> * When playing in pairs, open as soon as you can each round.<br /> <br /> * The most points wins the game, so it's best to have as many clean melds as possible. The best way to catch up when behind is to have piles that are worth the most. Concentrate on wilds, then clean, then dirty. A bunch of dirty piles means you lose 200 points each pile.<br /> <br /> === Hand Management ===<br /> <br /> * Watch the discards of the person after you. This will help you decide what to discard next turn. <br /> <br /> * Hold onto a couple of wilds in your hand to help you get to your foot (this is after a wild meld has already been started). They go great with pairs to help you walk/run to your foot. If you get the third card for those pairs and can get to your foot, add the wilds to the wild meld.<br /> <br /> * Early in the round, it's usually advisable to pick up the discard pile.<br /> <br /> *If you hold onto a pair of a meld already open, you can use them to pick up the discard pile. The discard pile can help you with completing pairs or adding cards to your singles. <br /> <br /> === Foot Management ===<br /> <br /> * If you're the first partner to get to your foot and the other team isn't close to going out, don't close any melds ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven'''). The more that is closed the harder it will be for your partner to get to their foot.<br /> <br /> * If you get into your foot before your partner, and the other team isn't close to going out, don't play any cards except wilds on the wild meld and new melds (no more than 3 cards).  This is to leave lots of room for your partner to get to their foot. If you top up melds to 5 or 6 cards, your partner may have 2 in hand (holding to pick up discard) or they keep picking up that number. Best to leave room for your partner to add cards. <br /> <br /> * If your partner is able to walk to their foot after you have been waiting for them in yours, and you can wait, wait one more turn for them to play their foot. You could have already been adjusting your cards to be set up and giving them the chance to play a new set of cards can be very valuable.<br /> <br /> === Endgame Situation ===<br /> <br /> * Complete your contract before opening a second wild meld.  However, there are some situations where it's best to open second wild before completing contact.  This can be to gain points due to being behind, you have lots of wilds in your hand and you don't want to dirty a bunch of stuff to get to your foot, etc. <br /> <br /> * When almost ready to go out but your team needs 1 or 2 dirty piles, don't close all the melds with 6 cards clean until you have your 2 dirties to go out.  Too many times teams need just the dirty piles to go out but there isn't any melds ready to close with just a wild.  Not having melds ready to close dirty gives the other team time to catch up in points.<br /> <br /> ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven''') * Pay attention to how close the other team is ready to go out. If they don't have wilds started, then you have time to help your partner get to their foot so don't close anything. However, if the other team has or really close to having their contract, then it's time to close things so you don't lose the points. *** HOWEVER, if you're in the last round and closing stuff doesn't get you ahead in points (or even close), then there's no point in closing melds. This will make it hard for your partner to get to their foot and there's no point as you aren't going to win without them.<br /> <br /> <br /> === Fair Play ===<br /> <br /> * It's OK and in the official rules to ask your partner if you can go out. The only answer your partner should give is a yes or no. However, asking permission to go out is not a built in mechanic of the game and so it is not required. <br /> <br /> * Don't give up in the last round (or all rounds).  The game could be close enough to still win, even if losing by 2000 or so points.  In this situation, it's best to ask your partner if you can go out before going out. </div>

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