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Tips thegang

2026-08-09T21:44:14Z

Postmans: I liked the big table, it's quite nice specific info. Added it to bottom

''The following tips aren’t set-in-stone rules, but are meant to give you an idea of how communication works in this game. As a group, figure out for yourselves how you’d like to communicate best without discussing your hand.''

This is a ''strategy guide'' for ''The Gang'' focused on **rank‑only** chip selection. It offers play tips and simple repeatable conventions for mapping numbered chips to card ranks to help consistency and thus winning.

Do not be afraid to '''take chips away''' from other players. This is exactly how you communicate the quality of your own hand and help others to categorize you. The more the chips move, the more communication takes place.

Be willing to be wrong, and reconsider your situation. Everyone makes mistakes.

Always evaluate the '''current state''', not how good it might still become.

== Change your thinking from poker ==

* '''Its a team game!''' The goal is communication. You want everyone to feel permitted to take the chips they need, and be willing to work together to fix errors and improve! Try to follow consistent patterns so others can read you well. And of course you should never bluff!
* '''Ranking is only about the cards you hold.''' Base your chip choice exclusively on the two ranks in your hand, what you have already made on the board, and what others are showing. <u>Do not consider suits, connected numbers, or draws</u> that rely on future cards to make anything. Odds usually are that you won't hit them, so the pattern is to inform only when you do.
* '''You're not aiming for the best hand or to win the best chip.''' You only win when all the order is right. Your four of a kind or straight flush means nothing if others wind up out of order.
* '''Big attention on your partners.''' You may have a miserable or dominant hand, but paying attention to the other players' movements can help sort out problems in this hand or show patterns for future ones. And it'll probably improve your actual poker in the long run too!
* '''Conservative default.''' Your goal isn't to push people around like it can be in poker, but to legitimately understand where your cards sit in relation to the others. It can be easy to overvalue your cards. In the preflop stage, default to slightly conservative picks where you might have otherwise liked to push, and only escalate when very strong or when community cards materially change your actual hand strength. In an argument over a chip? Think about what option you may be missing, as you can't win by forcing them out like you can in poker.

== Core conventions to adopt ==
* '''Establish a ranking convention.''' Map each chip number to a clear percentile bucket so everyone interprets chip choices the same way.
* '''Preflop: focus on differentiating the top card most.''' Differences in top card heavily decide hands. Then if rankings look very close, narrow down with signals to differentiate your kicker if necessary.
* '''Controlled chip theft.''' Taking another player’s chip is the only legal information signal—use it to show ranking, correct obvious misrankings, but never to bluff.
* '''Timing as a soft signal.''' Quickly taking a chip signals a stronger rank; taking time to pick a chip, or picking then returning a chip, signals a weaker rank.
* '''Watch for board damage.''' If you make two pairs, but the board makes another pair, lower pairs are lost. You can be ahead of others, then fall behind them without anyone hitting.
* '''Consider board options.''' If there are four clubs on the board, there may well be multiple flushes. Consider higher and lower straights. And use what is on the board to determine options for opponent cards.
* '''Common style: assume everyone missed''': When a new card is revealed each individual player will on average be more likely to miss upgrading in any random situation. Yes, with a few players, someone may well have hit an improvement, but you don't know who. Therefore many BGA players tend to default to taking the chip they had prior to the reveal when they miss, and then wait until someone moves up from below to give way. However, some players do prefer to move down a chip to show they haven't hit. Though this tends to require more communication, and can lead to confusion if different players are using different styles. Either way, watch for players coming up, and give way to them (by going down a chip) if you didn't hit and should now be lower than their signaled improvement.

== Simple pre-flop valuation mathematics ==
When suits are ignored, here is the rough statistical position all chips initially tend to mathematically wind up as:

*Treat any pocket pair as better than any other hand: 22>AK because it is already a pair.
* Suits have no value.
* Connectors (7&8) have no value.
* Don't put value on speculative hands.
* The median hand is around J8.

'''''This table is only the mathematical average truth, not the usual strategy of BGA players!:'''''
{| class="wikitable"
! colspan="5" |Mathematical estimated average position
|-
!Chips
!6 players
!5 players
!4 players
!3 players
|-
|6
|pairs / A
|
|
|
|-
|5
|A / K
|pairs / A
|
|
|-
|4
|K / Q
|K
|pairs / A
|
|-
|3
|J / T
|Q / J
|K / Q
|pairs / A / K
|-
|2
|9 / 8
|T / 9 / 8
|J / T / 9
|Q / J / T
|-
|1
|7
|7
|8 / 7
|9 / 8 / 7
|}
While this is average statistics, many on BGA instead use a different pattern to emphasize high card information. '''See the High card promesse strategy heading below for hints on more typical BGA chip usage preflop.'''

When you play regularly with people, you may develop different chip standards. But this table and the one further below are general loose ideas for BGA players which haven't known where to roughly value cards before.
== Pre-flop advice ==
This sets the information, so do try to get it right (especially higher cards that are more likely to count)

Start by giving the expected position of your cards (see the tables above and especially further below). Sort out chip clashes by further signals to narrow down within the ranges and for kickers if necessary. And then you may need to adjust if the entire hand is weak or strong (it's not impossible that like an 8-3 winds up with the 6 chip, or a K-Q winds up with the 1 chip!). Make room for those fighting on the end of you; you took the 2 because you have an 8... and then two players fight over the 1 chip? You are likely really the 3 because they are both so low.

If in a busy fight for chips, relook at each player's first choice. If someone started chip 3 and is fighting for 4, and everyone else started chip 4 or more, high chance the 3 should go lower, perhaps even ending up all the way down at the 1 chip if everyone else is desiring the 4 only.
== Post-flop advice ==
When hitting a double pair or better fight for the highest token. After someone steals it 2 or 3 times from you re-evaluate the board to look for potential straight/flushes (note that many straights/flushes are impossible from the first chip choice). Then evaluate for the bottom double pair or top one.

When having a pocket hand pair pre flop higher than all value on the table, fight for the highest token a couple times, until it's clear someone has 2 pairs or something greater.

When hitting top pair (the pair from the highest value on the table) take the highest token. You could insist once depending of first chip choice.

When hitting middle pair, take the second highest token if that's an increase from the first round. If it's the same value or below, wait for others choices. Note that it's possible that you took the highest token twice. On that case, others doesn't know you hit a pair, and you should take that into consideration for future rounds.

When hitting bottom pair, very slowly move up if low, and perhaps wait for others choices, putting yourself the lowest of those which improved. You may also need to weigh against the prior high chips that may have had pocket pairs. If you have moved up slowly it should be more apparent to them where they sit.

When hitting nothing, generally it is best to let lower chips declare their direction first, then give way to anyone showing a hit better than your cards. Some people automatically drop a token 1 or 2 below their first chip if nobody reacts, but many see this as confusing/overly complicated.

Generally it is best not to revalue your preflop cards versus someone else on the flop. There is already a lot of possible movement with three cards, and any shift can be seen as a hit or confusing. Usually people wait until the end to renegotiate their initial cards; trust the positions you established preflop during the middle of the game, even if you are suspicious, and then if the facts line up at the end, first take your location based on where the preflop position would put you... then try offering lower or higher a bit after the final hits have been signaled.

When 3+ players improved post flop and the chip to end up with isn't obvious, you should first make sure everyone understands which players improved. Then, pay attention to how much strength people showed in movements, and look at the approximate cards their preflop chip and movement back then suggested. If you hit on the flop and move up from a middle hand, and then the preflop 1 chip tries at all to be above you/someone else showing a hit, that should mean they have at least the middle pair. Come up with lowest pair very slowly.

== Turn and river advice ==
If that new card open straight and flushes, nearly any hand could goes for the highest chip immediately. Even if you got a double pair you should be careful about fighting for this highest token. Take into consideration how many straight and flushes there is. If it's really few (1 or 2) then the player which hit those should insist a lot for the highest token. That mean with a slightly weaker hand (like double pair) you could try to insist for 6. On the contrary if there is lots of straight and flushes (4 or 9+), take a lower chip more easily.

If that new card is above all others cards a new pair most likely put yourself as the best or second best hand, so take a really high chip.

If that new card is around the same value of others, take an higher chip, and let others decide where they put yourself. They know which pair you got but you don't know which pair they got.

If that new card is below all others cards, put yourself as the higher chip between those which never improved.

Note that pocket pairs can rank weirdly.

Finally at the River, the nuts (highest possible hand) should insist a lot for the highest token since there is nothing to lose. Knowing that, the second best hand can do the same. The third best hand can do the same but show weakness once after the fight while still showing they want the best token. Going lower than that is much trickier, especially for flushes board.

== Correcting mistakes ==
If you or someone else made a mistake that can easily be confusing.

It can be corrected naturally by someone hitting a pair, or even rarely with two pockets pairs by someone else hitting a pair.

If it's obvious what is happening you could try to correct it immediately (post flop), especially if there was some fight pre flop.

But I would advise you to let everything goes as planned, and in the final turn, still take your normal chip if the river can be confusing, and after everyone is happy with their chip, fight for the potential mistake which happened earlier. That's because when doing that, it look like to others that you hit a pair, which is extremely confusing.

== Different ways of stealing a chip ==
Let's assume you may want the chip above you. You have a lot of ways to convey information when stealing a chip (from strongest to weakest):

- '''stealing the chip one above the one you want, put it back on the table, and steal the chip you want:''' this is often after you took too much time to react. this steal is even stronger that the default one, because you are showing that other player that you are on the higher side of that chip, and will often encourage a player to give way.

- '''stealing the chip:''' this is the default move, and tends to signal that you still have some belief in your strength, but allows the other player to push harder to reemphasize their situation.

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table and waiting:''' this is the most neutral play. You show strength and encourage the other player to reconsider, but give the decision to the other player, assuming they have more information than you. Preflop, that's normally after a fight, and you give them one last chance to be below you, and then you take the lower one. At the end of the hand, after shifts from the new card, you can use it to encourage the player to look at the board and reanalyze where your had could fall. Alternatively, doing this can just mean that you want more time to think about the situation. If after a while, you take the lower or highest chip that's again some information (neutral+ or neutral-)

- '''stealing the chip, putting it back to the table, and immediately taking the lower one:''' this is the weakest method. Usually doing this you may be asking the other player to double-check what happened earlier/confirm they really want that token, but have limited confidence that you are above them. Alternatively, you could have seen that something isn't right, and want to show it to the other player, and let them decide to correct it or not. Sometimes it is also used if you have the lowest pair after the flop and are ranked behind other pairs correctly, but then the turn is a lower card than the table and another player takes your chip to show that they have now hit a pair and are trying to move up... so you take up the chip above your previous position then immediately go back to your initial position to show that you still have a higher pair than the new position, while trying not to show any extra strength to the player above you.

'''Other stealing uses:'''

* steal the token of two others players and then take back your own token if you think something isn't right between those two players
* after the flop, when a few people hit, take the tokens of everyone which hit because you want everyone to reconsider and choose again in the complex situation that you worry may be off
* if something is really not right (like you took the highest chip pre flop, and someone else who hit a pair is sure you hitted a pair, and don't let you be under them), you can pick some tokens completely out of place. Per example if you are fighting for 3/4/5, you can take the 1, put it back, and take the 3. That's an extremely strong sign you didn't hit that pair because you will make players with chips 1&2 being confused, so it's for emergency only.

You can also drop your chip to ensure the round doesn't end so people can reconsider their positions, if the Confirm All Rounds setting is not turned on, or when people may've already voted to move on but should maybe reconsider. Or to hold play if a specialist card should be used.

==High card promesse strategy ==
High card promesse is a powerful convention change from the basic pre-flop chip valuation statistics above, offering more information on the highest cards preflop, and is commonly the pattern used on BGA.

Because high pocket cards more end up following through to usage in the end (pocket 5-4 versus 5-2 versus 4-3 will often up be completely wiped out by higher board cards, especially the kickers... whereas A-9, A-7, K-Q will fairly often all matter), this method typically leads to more victories by helping narrow down top-end situations more precisely:

{| class="wikitable"
! colspan="5" |Typical BGA chip strategy
|-
!Chips
!6 players
!5 players
!4 players
!3 players
|-
|6
|pairs / A
|
|
|
|-
|5
|K
|pairs / A
|
|
|-
|4
|Q
|K
|pairs / A
|
|-
|3
|J / T
|Q / J
|K / Q
|pairs / A / K
|-
|2
|9 / 8
|T / 9 / 8
|J / T / 9
|Q / J / T
|-
|1
|7
|7
|8 / 7
|9 / 8 / 7
|}
In this convention every player first chip pick should typically be in this range.

Then you quickly have information on what cards all players have. And can then settle closer differences and shift upward or downward if the table's cards are weaker or stronger. (A 9 can still even wind up being the top chip if everyone else shows very low cards. But you cannot know that or move that way until early signaling makes that clear)

== Final valuation hints ==

=== Board hands: lowest value ===
If the best five card set between you and the board don't include your cards at all, your hand is the lowest possible value.

For example if you had 6-2, and the board comes A-A-9-3-3, there is no possible hand weaker than yours. You can take the 1 chip even if you highly suspect someone else has lower than you, because both of your hands are A-A-9-3-3. This often winds up resolving problems at the bottom of the chips.

=== When there are two pairs on the table and you hit nothing: only your highest card matters ===
For example with a board JJ447, and you have A6, the 6 will not matter, your hand is the same as A2 and AK. So any earlier fights where you believe you both had aces no longer matter. Just ensure you don't give way to a king-high hand, and certainly all pairs and higher should be above you.

This means a huge thing '''<u>for pocket pairs</u>'''. If you have 5-5, and the board starts 6-7-7-9, '''while''' '''your hand was probably the best one pre flop (chip 6)''', was still pretty good post-flop and after the turn (only falling behind someone with a 6, 7 or 9), if another 9 comes, '''it will suddenly became the worst hand after the river''' because you can't use triple pairs... your best hand is 7-7-9-9-6, the worst possible hand. That mean that an 8-2 hand, which probably took the 1 or 2 chip pre-flop is now beating you. And so you should fight for the 1 chip and insist a lot since it's often not obvious for others players.

If you're unsure, take your best 5 cards to create your hand. That mean that AJ99752 has the same value than AJ99743: they both use AJ997 to make their best hand. '''Keep rechecking the indicator notice of what you have next to your cards''', it will help you notice when you've made a mistake.

===4 cards of a suit on the board: reanalyze heavily===
When 3 diamonds show up there is a small chance that one or perhaps two players have a flush, and they will be aggressive. But when a 4th diamond lands, it means many flushes may be made. If your flush is with the bottom card, you may need to work your way backwards behind those with higher diamonds. The pre-flop chips can offer a little hint, but sometimes it's the kicker that made the flush, sometimes it isn't. A hand with an ace of spade and a 2 of diamond is now weaker than a 4 of spade and a 3 of diamond.

Likewise if you had two diamonds and so were likely near the top with your flush, suddenly your lower diamond doesn't matter, and others may have shifted ahead of you. Still, if you have a middle or low diamond, a person that signaled the flush hit when 3 were on the board is reasonably likely to have a higher diamond.

Use the pre-flop chips and movement to gauge top possibility. A player that immediately took the 1 chip before the start shouldn't have a 10 or higher. The 6 chip could have an ace in the flush... or their 3 kicker as their flush... or their pocket pair 2 as their flush. Be open to each possibility.

===Remember, full house beats regular flushes and straights===
So watch for the board pairing up to reduce your otherwise strong position. And even with only one pair on the board, someone could match that and another. Or have a pocket pair matching the board. So even with such a strong hand early, watch for that coming from below.

Two pairs on the board? Be very ready to step back to anyone moving up to those pairs.

==Specialist and challenge cards ==

====Overcoming the challenger cards:====

*'''Blackout''' (forget chips): Generally one of the hardest. Try to remember your position, and keep a rough note of movements and those around you. But often may need to verify situations a lot later on because even if you remember everything, others may not. Best to aim to try to move the game quicker, making less chip switches and rechecks. Try to be forgiving of mistakes, it's complicated. Some players use a method of everyone taking their prior chip to start the round, just to remind everyone. However, if not everyone does it, this too can add confusion.
*'''Security Cameras''' (3 pocket cards): Everything is gets a lot more complicated. Consider that crazier options now exist (someone could have 3 or 4 of a kind after a quiet flop... someone could have 3 cards for a straight or flush and hit early). Generally you want to devalue on preflop chips just slightly (perhaps take the top chip with an ace high, but immediately give it back, even if A-Q-9, where you'd probably hold it with A-9 initially). Play conservative always, odds of every increase is greater with a third card. The odds of pocket pairs are also much higher, so watch more for them. '''And don't forget a third pair (or a second triple) doesn't matter!'''
*'''Laser Tripwires/Motion Detector''' (one players get new cards after flop): Seems to often be overlooked by other players; often good to announce in chat that you (or another) has new cards. It can be very hard to re-find position, especially if many hit (and including the new cards). The player with the new cards may not have closely watched the position battles in other zones, so may need information extra times.
*'''Quick Access/Hasty Getaway''' (skip chips for a round): Quick Access can be tough if similar pocket cards and busy flop. But Hasty Getaway especially still has more limited possibilities... just weigh all possibilities. Use slow/quicker advancing for low/high pair and double hits similar to the flop. Again in general the theme is to aim to be a little conservative as others are more likely to have improved in both.
*'''Noise Sensors/Ventilation Shaft''' (lock a chip value): Don't take quick at all unless you're very strong (Ventilation) or weak (Noise). Huddle around the next chip. Perhaps repeatedly pick up and put down the neighboring chip quickly to emphasize you are fairly near the special chip (if you have like 6-3 you could take the 2 repeatedly in Noise Sensors, if you have like A-K or 4-4 you could take the second-highest chip repeatedly in Ventilation Shaft)
*'''Retina Scan/Fingerprint Scan''' (need extra group vote to pass): Try to be more watchful of movements as the game goes on, even in other parts of order, especially as the game goes on. For Retina Scan (guess a player's card value) watch how hit pairs move in relation to each other. The chips nearest the pre-flop position of the final top chip may have extra information, so use them. Pocket pairs (especially when a player stays top chip) and flushes can be absolutely brutal, do the best you can to narrow it down from the board and the player's speed in each round. For Fingerprint Scan (guess the player's result) look for the typical moves (2 regular increases suggests 2 pair or 3 of a kind [depending on whether the board already had the card]... a strong rapid jump up and aggression on the chip may show a straight or flush). Again watch for the pocket pair possibility for the top preflop chips. One helpful move can be to repeatedly take the top chip quickly on a turn where you hit something bigger. So someone already the 6 chip preflop may hammer the 6 to show 3 of a kind on a quiet flop. Or someone leading may hammer the 6 to show they've moved to a straight or flush.

====Using the specialist cards:====

*'''Informant/Getaway Driver/Mastermind''' (one player reveals info): Save it for the end, as early disputes may resolve, and new ones occur. For card reveals, try to show what others may need most (if it seems clear you hit the same pair as someone, it may be best to show your kicker [if applicable] instead) Generally show your top flush card. When voting, consider who can give the most information... if 3 players need resolving that all suggest to have either the same or uncertain pair orders, or similar preflop cards, the player in the middle could be more useful in revealing a card. Often the less experienced player may be the one to ensure. '''Always use the card''', you'll be surprised at how often it winds up useful when you didn't think it would be!
*'''Muscle''' (win grouping ties): Usually worth playing. But watch out for other players with the same hand. Pocket aces cruise along as chip 6 in a 2-4-7-10-J had with only little moves up. Playing muscle to separate uncertain middle pairs suddenly knocks them off the throne, so both the player with the top chip and the player moving up need to be mindful of that.
*'''Investor/Math Whiz''' (preflop info for all): Take advantage of it, and consider options! Someone has 14 in Math Whiz? If they're taking high preflop, they have 7-7. If they jump to top quick at flop with 6-8-J, they have 6-8. If they move up decent on a flop of 2-8-K after being a happy 2 chip, they probably have 4-8 and so middle pair (they could be overplaying a pair of 2s, but can't have a king). Use the info to doublecheck moves later (sometimes it'll rule out pairs or triples and instead point to things like flushes and straights). Remember '''an ace or 10 is not a pocket card (investor)''', and '''10/J/Q/K all count as 10 while aces count as 11 in Math Whiz'''. And remember to look out for pocket pairs!
*'''Coordinator/Con Artist''' (forced card change at start): Limited in use. Occasionally can help you know what another player has (since you saw card(s)), especially in games with less players. May be useful for newer/weaker players to give up middle cards (like 9-Q) that can often be complicated in hopes of an easier hand at the top or bottom end.
*'''Jack/Hacker''' (other card alterations): Rarely used by most groups. Hacker could be helpful to use preflop to resolve a bitter battle over a chip. Jack can occasionally settle a debate at end of the hand, though in most circumstances confuses things more. Probably best not to change your chip in expectation of the jack token until you actually have it, especially in regular movement times, as that can lead players to misunderstand your cards or widespread confusion. A jack may give you a straight? That may feel great. But is it actually useful to ordering the ranks of everyone's cards? Usually not.

==Full range and average hand pre-flop ==
This cheat sheet map recommended pre‑flop chips depending of the number of players. Use this at the table as a compact reference. Pairs are above all. All picks are '''rank‑only''' (no suits). Connector (7&8 of diamond) has no value.

''Note that even if the numbers are mathematiquely coherent, since pairs can often more easily be differenciated from A high, you could want to lower slightly the highest range. And the ranges shouldn't be uniform, the lower ranges should take more hands since there is an higher chance they doesn't matter (per example J2/J3/J4 are identical unless two of those kickers appear on the table).''

Finally, note that this sheet is only without context. It's great to know where you should put your hand initially. As soon as some player(s) take any chip(s), the value of that sheet fall pretty fast.

'''This sheet assume that there will be the same amount of players going for every chip''' (1326 possible hands)(22100 with 3 cards hand).
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!3 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|16.67%
|median 1 hand
|7/5
|T/4/2
|-
|33.33%
|between 1/2 chips
|9/8
|J/T/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 2 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|66.67%
|between 2/3 chips
|K/2
|A/7/2
|-
|83.33%
|median 3 hand
|A/5
|2/2/7
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!4 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|12,5%
|median 1 hand
|7/2
|9/6/4
|-
|25%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/7
|J/4/3
|-
|37.5%
|median 2 hand
|T/5
|Q/6/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 2/3 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|62,5%
|median 3 hand
|Q/8
|K/Q/7
|-
|75%
|between 3/4 chips
|K/9
|A/J/4
|-
|87,5%
|median 4 hand
|A/8
|5/5/T
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!5 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|T%
|median 1 hand
|6/4
|8/7/6
|-
|20%
|between 1/2 chips
|8/3
|T/7/5
|-
|30%
|median 2 hand
|9/5
|J/8/6
|-
|40%
|between 2/3 chips
|T/7
|Q/8/5
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''median 3 hand'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|60%
|between 3/4 chips
|Q/6
|K/J/8
|-
|70%
|median 4 hand
|K/5
|A/9/2
|-
|80%
|between 4/5 chips
|A/2
|A/K/3
|-
|90%
|median 5 hand
|A/T
|7/7/9
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}
{| class="wikitable"
|+
!6 players
!
!2 cards hand
!3 cards hand
|-
|0%
|lowest possible hand
|3/2
|4/3/2
|-
|8,33%
|median 1 hand
|6/2
|8/6/4
|-
|16,67%
|between 1/2 chips
|7/5
|T/4/2
|-
|25%
|median 2 hand
|8/7
|J/4/3
|-
|33,33%
|between 2/3 chips
|9/8
|J/T/5
|-
|41,67%
|median 3 hand
|T/8
|Q/9/4
|-
|'''50%'''
|'''between 3/4 chips'''
|'''J/7'''
|'''K/6/3'''
|-
|58,33%
|median 4 hand
|Q/5
|K/J/2
|-
|66,67%
|between 4/5 chips
|K/2
|A/7/2
|-
|75%
|median 5 hand
|K/9
|A/J/4
|-
|83,33%
|between 5/6 chips
|A/5
|2/2/7
|-
|91,67%
|median 6 hand
|A/J
|8/8/Q
|-
|100%
|highest possible hand
|A/A
|A/A/A
|}

Tips soixantedeuxsoleilsdete

2026-08-02T20:19:03Z

Postmans:

* Try to finish 2 or 3 complete sections for the bonuses.
* Try to hit the sun track bonusses for exact matches.
* Be smart about your crabs, which numbers work well on them.

Tips pandaarei

2025-06-14T17:58:04Z

Postmans:

119 animal cards:
* 20 rabbit cards
* 15 bear cards
* 15 giraffe cards
* 15 owl cards
* 10 cat cards
* 10 fox cards
* 10 lion cards
* 10 pig cards
* 5 monkey cards
* 4 level 1 panda cards
* 3 level 2 panda cards
* 2 level 3 panda cards

Tips pandaarei

2025-06-14T17:57:40Z

Postmans: Created page with "119 animal cards: - 20 rabbit cards - 15 bear cards - 15 giraffe cards - 15 owl cards - 10 cat cards - 10 fox cards - 10 lion cards - 10 pig cards - 5 monkey cards - 4 level 1 panda cards - 3 level 2 panda cards - 2 level 3 panda cards"

119 animal cards:
- 20 rabbit cards
- 15 bear cards
- 15 giraffe cards
- 15 owl cards
- 10 cat cards
- 10 fox cards
- 10 lion cards
- 10 pig cards
- 5 monkey cards
- 4 level 1 panda cards
- 3 level 2 panda cards
- 2 level 3 panda cards

Gamehelpcastlesofburgundy

2024-05-10T15:57:03Z

Postmans: fix typos

<div style="background: #ff7a7a33; border: 2px solid #FF0000; margin: 6px; padding: 6px;">
⚠️ There is an error in the English translation (and in some other languages) of the rule book of the physical game. The tiebreaker rule should be:
::''“If there is a tie, the player with the '''most''' unused hex spaces in their duchy wins the game”''

⚠️ There are a few differences in the rules between 1st and 2019 editions (see below in Game options).</span>
</div>

== Rules of the game ==

See [https://cdn.ravensburger.de/content/wcm/mediadata/pdf/Entdecken/Ravensburger%20Marken/alea/Spielregeln/Die%20Burgen%20von%20Burgund/Burgund_Englisch.pdf the rules PDF on the Ravensburger site].

== Interface help ==

==== Game actions ====
* If you want to buy a tile, you just have to click on it (see special case below).
* If you want to use a die to perform an action, you must first select the die, then:
**[[File:CoB_takeTile.jpg|right]] to take a tile from the main board to your storage, just click on it<div style="clear: both"></div>
**[[File:CoB_placeTile.jpg|right]] to place a tile, first click on the tile you want to place, then click on one of the possible spaces (they're highlighted, unless you have chosen the ''Display almost nothing'' choice for the ''Possible moves display'' user preference)<div style="clear: both"></div>
**[[File:CoB_sellGoods.jpg|right]] to sell goods, just click on one of them<div style="clear: both"></div>
**[[File:CoB_takeWorkers.jpg|right]] to take workers, click on the worker icon on your player board, below your goods storage.<div style="clear: both"></div>
* Workers are automatically used if needed. They appear afterwards in the log message, but if you want to be sure before your action of how many workers are needed, you can enable the ''Display workers needed'' user preference.
* '''Green borders mean "available / possible", blue borders mean "selected".'''

===== Special case =====
In general, to avoid useless clicks, you only need to click on a tile to buy it, without having to specify you want to buy it. This is possible because in general, no confusion is possible since the tiles you can buy are not the same that the ones you can take with a die. And even with yellow tile #6, you need to select a die first if you want to take a tile (not buy it).

But sometimes (yellow tile #6 in 2019 edition), one click is not enough. In these cases, you should still first click on the tile you want to buy, then you will be asked if you want to buy it with workers or silverlings, and if you're in the middle of an action with a castle advantage, you will be asked if you want to buy this tile or if you want to take it with the castle advantage.

===== Hints =====
* You can undo your whole turn at any time during your turn by clicking on the Undo red button in the action bar. Other players don't see your actions in their interface until you have confirmed your turn, and they see only your confirmed actions, so it won't bother them and mess their game log. But some information is not totally hidden: some users could know about the type of tiles you placed (a castle, a ship or some of the buildings). So if you really want to hide your plans for future turns, just think before you click and don't place tiles unless you're sure you will actually confirm that you place them. Note that players replaying a finished game from your point of view will see all your trials and undone actions.
* It is not and it will not be possible to cancel only your last move, you can only cancel your whole turn (too much programming work, not worth it, and if you're afraid of not remembering the moves you played when you undo your whole turn, they're still visible in the game log).
* A die can be unselected (you can also directly select the other die) if you change your mind and want to use the other die, or buy a tile before. If you have selected a tile in your storage to place it in your estate / duchy, you can also unselect it, or directly select another tile.

==== Display ====
*[[File:CoB_moveUpPlayerBoard.jpg|right]] You can click on the button next to a player's name (under the order track discs on the main game board) to move this player's board to the beginning of player boards (this can avoid having to scroll too much when you want to see your opponents' boards).<div style="clear: both"></div>
* Don't forget that like in any BGA game, you can disable tooltips (in the user preferences menus) if they annoy you. You still have the Tile help section below the player boards if you need help.
* You can display sold goods: there are tooltips on the stack of your sold goods. If you have a mouse, you can hold your pointer above your stack, if you're using a touch device, you can usually display tooltips with a long press (or a "double then long" press).
* If you can't display tooltips with your touch device or if you selected the "no tooltips" user preference, you can still display sold goods by clicking on the sold goods stack.
* With the ''Zoom level'' User preference, you can resize all the game elements to fit your screen width: make them smaller to be able to see more boards at the same time, or make them bigger to enjoy bigger images. User preferences are accessible with the cog icon in your player panel, or, like in any BGA game, with the "hamburger menu" a the top right of the page, or in the ''Options'' tab at the bottom of the page.
*[[File:CoB_castle-mine.jpg|right]] In 3 players games, one of the space for six-sided tiles next to depot 6 (on the main board) is half dark green, half grey, with letters on it. This is to remind players that in 3 players games, this space gets a castle tile in phases A, C and E, and a mine tile in phases B and D.<div style="clear: both"></div>

==== Replay ====
It is not possible to start a replay from one of the moves that happened during one of your turns. You can start a replay from any other point.

== Game options ==
==== Differences between 1st edition and 2019 edition ====
* [[File:CoB_diff_15-26.png|right]]Two yellow six-sided tiles (called knowledge tiles in 1st edition and monasteries in 2019 edition) award a different number of points (see image)<div style="clear: both"></div>
* Another yellow tile (#6) is different: in addition to let you buy tiles in numbered depots, it lets you buy tiles (anywhere) with two silverlings OR TWO WORKERS.
* In 2019 edition, you are allowed to buy a tile ''during'' your action.<br />
Note: the implementation on BGA doesn't allow to buy a tile at any moment, because it would not be useful. You can do it only when you just placed a castle or a city hall.
* New art for six-sided tiles, goods tiles and bonus tiles (the new art for other game elements is not included in this online implementation because it wouldn't fit).
* One more player board, labelled number 2 in 2019 edition, and available in 4 copies so that it can be used for beginner setup. This board is available in both 1st edition and 2019 edition options of this implementation. The board that was labelled number 2 in first edition was given number 10 in 2019 edition, so it has number 10 in this online implementation, regardless of the chosen edition option.
* A few confusing name changes. I tried to avoid possible confusions in this implementation: some of the in-game text is different depending on which edition you play (e.g. estate / duchy), while for other elements, I decided to use the same term in both editions (e.g. yellow tile for knowledge tile / monastery).

==== Different game setup options ====
The default option on BGA is '''Random board without board #8''', and not '''Beginner setup''', because it is probably the most interesting for most players, and it is not ''really problematic'' if beginners join games with this option. But they can be disadvantaged if they choose a poor space for their starting castle, so beginner setups are still better choices for beginners (they don't have to choose a starting castle space), even if other options are not strongly discouraged.
* '''Classical setup''': this is the setup described at the very end of the rulebook: each player is given a two-sided estate / duchy cardboard, and must choose one side. To simulate play with the physical game, two players can't have the same cardboard.
* '''One random board per player''': each player is given a single random duchy / estate among available ones. Two players can have the same duchy / estate.
* '''Random board without board 8''': same as above, but board #8 is removed from available boards (many consider this board unbalanced).
* '''Identical (random) board for all players''': all players play with the same board, randomly chosen among available boards.
* '''Beginner setup''': all players play with the same beginner board, with their first castle already placed in the middle. This option exists in three variants: with board #1, with board #2, or with a random board among #1 and #2 (the same board for all players).

== User preferences ==

==== Workers needed ====
The number of workers needed for each action you can do with a die can be displayed next to the tiles you can click.

==== Possible moves display ====
Possible actions can be highlighted with a green border. This is an option because some players will find these big green borders not good-looking, especially when there are a lot of them at the same time. There are three options for this preference:
===== Always display all possible moves =====
Every place you can click to trigger an action, that is not a blue or red button, is highlighted with a green border.
===== Display non obvious possible moves =====
''Non obvious'' is subjective, the choice made was to display only tiles that can be placed and possible estate / duchy destinations for the ''Place tile'' action, and tiles that can be taken for free from the main board, with a church, market or carpenter.
===== Display almost nothing =====
The only things that will be highlighted are the ''Take workers'' icon, and the depots when you have to choose goods after having placed a ship, because since these are not tiles, it's not obvious where to click to trigger these actions.

==== Estate / duchy background ====
You can choose to display a lighter background for estate spaces, which will make the tiles stand out more.

Gamehelpcatan

2024-05-10T15:55:32Z

Postmans: Undo revision 21086 by S009jn (talk) people want game rules, not opinions please

==Objective==
Get resources to buy various buildings and development cards, and try to be the first player to reach 10 points.

==Setup==
* The board consists of hills (brick), forest (lumber), mountains (ore), fields (grain), pasture (wool) and a desert (nothing) at random places.
* Each terrain except the desert has a number of 2-12 on it. The desert starts with the robber on it.
* Each player places 2 settlements and 1 road next to each settlement on the board, then they receive resources for each terrain around the second settlement.

==Gameplay==
'''Rolling for resource production''' (obligatory): On your turn, roll 2 dice and calculate the sum.
* The terrains with that number produce resources for all players who have settlements or cities next to them (if the robber isn't blocking them): 1 resource per settlement and 2 per city.
* If you roll a 7, no one gets any resources and players with 8 resources or more must discard half of them (rounded down). You must move the robber to a new terrain and steal 1 random resource from a player who has a settlement or city next to that terrain.

'''Trading''' (optional): during your turn you can trade resources
*• with all other players (''domestic trade'')
*• with the bank (''maritime trade'') at the standard rate of 4 identical resources for 1 or at a preferential rate of a harbour if you have a settlement next to it.

'''Building''' (optional): finally, you can build roads and settlements, upgrade settlements to cities or purchase a development card by paying the resources needed.
*• '''roads''' must connect to the initial settlements and cost 1 brick + 1 lumber (worth 0 points)
*• '''settlements''' must be connected by roads to existing settlements (except at start) and cost 1 brick + 1 lumber + 1 wool + 1 grain (worth 1 point)
*• '''cities''' replace an existing settlement and cost 3 ore + 2 grain (worth 2 points)
*• '''development cards''' cost 1 ore + 1 wool + 1 grain and include
**• 14 ''knight'' cards that allow to move the robber to another terrain and steal a resource
**• 2 ''road building'' cards allowing extra roads to be built
**• 2 ''year of plenty'' cards providing two free resources of choice
**• 2 ''monopoly'' cards giving all other players that help gathering resources or building road•s
**• 5 ''victory point'' cards

You can '''play a development card''' at any time during your turn, even before rolling the dice, as long as it was bought on a previous turn and is not a victory card.

==Scoring==
*• '''Settlements''': each is worth '''1 victory point'''.
*• '''Cities''': each is worth '''2 victory points''' (1 Point from the settlement + 1).
*• '''Victory point cards''': some ''development cards'' are worth '''1 victory point'''. They are kept hidden until you have sufficent points to win.
*• '''Largest army''': the player who has played the most knight cards at any time (at least 3) gets the ''largest army card'' which is worth '''2 points'''.
*• '''Longest road''': the player with the longest continuous road at any time (at least 5 segments) gets the ''longest road card'' which is worth '''2 points'''.
If there is a tie, the original owner keeps the ''achievement cards''.

==End of game==
If a player has '''10 or more victory points during their turn''' (including victory points cards), they reveal them and the game ends with their victory.

Tips nextstation

2022-08-07T14:59:51Z

Postmans: lets remove the joke and make a serious start

Always make sure you can move to any of the potentially upcoming types of stations.

Gamehelpiceandthesky

2022-04-15T21:57:17Z

Postmans: Created page with "."

Tips iceandthesky

2022-04-15T21:45:25Z

Postmans:

Note which cards have a CO².
*First generation: air 1, ice 2
*Second generation: air 3, earth 1, ice 0
*Third generation: air 2, earth 0 and 2, ice 3

Tips iceandthesky

2022-04-15T21:42:47Z

Postmans: Created page with "Note which cards have a CO². First generation: air 1, ice 2 Second generation: air 3, earth 1, ice 0 Third generation: air 2, earth 0 and 2, ice 3"

Note which cards have a CO².
First generation: air 1, ice 2
Second generation: air 3, earth 1, ice 0
Third generation: air 2, earth 0 and 2, ice 3

Gamehelptinyfarms

2022-01-23T12:23:51Z

Postmans:

==Gameplay==
The game is played over 10 rounds.

Each round the dice are rolled (5 for 4 player, 4 for 3 players and 3 for 2 players).

After that each player picks one of the dice and either the red or blue farmer and moves that farmer for the amount of eyes of the dice clockwise.

You collect the animals where the farmer ends and place them in the same color farm (there are two farms, blue and red).

After each player picked a dice, moved the farmer, and placed the animals the next round starts.

Farmers may not share the same space. If the farmer lands on the other farmer it moves one further.

==Milk==
There are 3 milks at the start of the game per player.

You can use milk to increase or decrease the dice by one per milk (may never end to be 0)

==Scoring==
You score for milk, farm balance and animals.
*Milk: 1 point per milk left at the end of the game
*Balance: -1 point per difference in the amount of animals (10,10 = 0, 8,12 = -4, 6,14 = -8, etc.)
===Animals===
For some animals (pig, sheep, cow+calf) you score if they are adjacent in the same farm.
*Pigs: 1 point per pig, 6 per adjacent pair.
*Sheep: 0 point for a solo pig, 2 for a pair, 12 for a triple
*Chicken: 2 point per chicken
*Cows and Calves: number of cows * number of calves which are adjacent to each other.
*Horses: Player with most horses gets 10 points, 2nd gets 6 points (0 points in 2 player). In case of a draw 2 players get 10 points, nobody gets 2nd place points.
*Forest Friends: can be across both farms: scored for set of different types: 1 = 1, 2 = 4 points, 3 = 8 points, 4 = 12 points, 5 = 18 points.

Gamehelptinyfarms

2022-01-23T12:23:19Z

Postmans: Created page with "==Gameplay== The game is played over 10 rounds. Each round the dice are rolled (5 for 4 player, 4 for 3 players and 3 for 2 players). After that each player picks one of the..."

==Gameplay==
The game is played over 10 rounds.
Each round the dice are rolled (5 for 4 player, 4 for 3 players and 3 for 2 players).
After that each player picks one of the dice and either the red or blue farmer and moves that farmer for the amount of eyes of the dice clockwise.
You collect the animals where the farmer ends and place them in the same color farm (there are two farms, blue and red).
After each player picked a dice, moved the farmer, and placed the animals the next round starts.

Farmers may not share the same space. If the farmer lands on the other farmer it moves one further.

==Milk==
There are 3 milks at the start of the game per player.
You can use milk to increase or decrease the dice by one per milk (may never end to be 0)

==Scoring==
You score for milk, farm balance and animals.
Milk: 1 point per milk left at the end of the game
Balance: -1 point per difference in the amount of animals (10,10 = 0, 8,12 = -4, 6,14 = -8, etc.)
===Animals===
For some animals (pig, sheep, cow+calf) you score if they are adjacent in the same farm.
*Pigs: 1 point per pig, 6 per adjacent pair.
*Sheep: 0 point for a solo pig, 2 for a pair, 12 for a triple
*Chicken: 2 point per chicken
*Cows and Calves: number of cows * number of calves which are adjacent to each other.
*Horses: Player with most horses gets 10 points, 2nd gets 6 points (0 points in 2 player). In case of a draw 2 players get 10 points, nobody gets 2nd place points.
*Forest Friends: can be across both farms: scored for set of different types: 1 = 1, 2 = 4 points, 3 = 8 points, 4 = 12 points, 5 = 18 points.

Tips checkers

2020-06-30T20:16:17Z

Postmans:

Be aggressive, you are more likely to win. Playing to the board sides are safer though without reward.
Forward- always forward, it's alright to lose pieces as long as you take the opponent's, save your kings.
Balance your position, good practice is to have as many pieces on your right half of the board as on the left half. If you see a big imbalance in your opponents position you can try to empty the emptier half even more and advance to a king.
Safety in numbers, don't leave your pieces alone, move them one after another to protect them. Having lots of holes between your pieces opens you up combinations.
Protect your rear, such that the opponent cannot do a combination to your last row, protect your forward pieces.
Sacrifice when needed. Draw out your opponent so you can get 2-1 trades the following turn, don't expose your kings without reward.
Each king you get is a huge bonus, try to get as many as possible and don't waste them, sacrificing several (generally up to 2) pieces for a king can be alright.
Don't forget to block your opponent when possible, you make not only that piece vulnerable but fail to protect it with a counter and give your opponent the chance to take multiple of your pieces in one turn.

==International draughts==
Keep your pieces together, don't make big holes. See if there are any combinations possible.

Pieces in the center can move multiple directions, while pieces at the border are safer for combinations they are more limited in their movements.

Tips checkers

2020-06-30T20:09:48Z

Postmans: the old advice is plain wrong

==International draughts==
Keep your pieces together, don't make big holes. See if there are any combinations possible.

Pieces in the center can move multiple directions, while pieces at the border are safer for combinations they are more limited in their movements.

Gamehelpcheckers

2018-11-17T12:43:34Z

Postmans: /* Strategy */

== Objective of the Game ==

Checkers, also known as 'draughts', is a timeless abstract strategy game for two players dating back almost a thousand years. In the game you move your pieces until you've jumped over all pieces of your opponent and have removed them from the board. Players move one piece diagonally at a time in alternating play (starting with light). All references to squares refer to the dark squares only. The board is an 8 by 8 square of squares in alternating light or dark colours. Players should set up pieces on the 12 dark squares in the first three rows closest to them (the light spaces are completely ignored in the game), setting up three rows of 4 checkers.

== Game variants ==

There is a lot of Checkers variants. Four of them are available on Board Game Arena :

:* International Checkers (10x10 board, men can capture backwards, kings can fly, one must capture as many pieces as possible)
:* Straight Checkers (8x8 board, men cannot capture backwards, kings can capture backwards but cannot fly, one must capture if possible but not necessarily as many pieces as possible)
:* Brazilian Checkers (8x8 board, men can capture backwards, kings can fly, one must capture as many pieces as possible)
:* Russian Checkers (8x8 board, men can capture backwards, kings can fly and go on capturing immediately after getting crowned, one must capture if possible but not necessarily as many pieces as possible).

Make sure to check the rules for the variant you are currently playing: the following detailed section applies only to Straight Checkers.

== Straight Checkers ==

===Moving & Capturing===

Take turns moving a checker one space diagonally forward towards the opponent's side of the board on a square that contains no checkers of either player. You may 'jump' your opponents checkers by making a capturing move if your checker is located at most one space behind your opponent's checker (on your side). When capturing you jump over the checker moving two spaces in the same direction and then remove their piece from the game. Capturing multiple pieces using multiple jumps in the same turn is a key part of the game, when doing so you may change which direction they're moving diagonally, but they must still always move forward.

:* If you have the opportunity to jump your opponent's checker, you must.
:* You may continue capturing subsequent checkers until there are no more possible captures.
:* If you have the opportunity to jump a choice of opponent's checkers, you may choose which but must capture one of them.

===Kings===

When one of your pieces reaches the end of the opponent's board that piece is upgraded to a king, these may move in either direction now.

:* Kings may move forward or backward diagonally.
:* Kings can still only move one diagonal space at a time unless capturing.
:* Kings may move both forward and backward in the same turn when capturing.

==Winning==

Complete ''one'' of the following two objectives;

:* Capture all of your opponent's pieces.

'''or'''

:* Block all your opponent's pieces so they can't make any more moves.

==Draws==

A draw is declared if ''any'' of these conditions occur;

:* The same situation repeats itself for the third time (not necessarily consecutive).

'''or'''

:* 25 moves have been played without moving a man forward or making a capture.

==Strategy==

:* Be aggressive, you are more likely to win. Playing to the board sides are safer though without reward.
:* Forward- always forward, it's alright to lose pieces as long as you take the opponent's, save your kings.
:* Balance your position, good practice is to have as many pieces on your right half of the board as on the left half. If you see a big imbalance in your opponents position you can try to empty the emptier half even more and advance to a king.
:* Safety in numbers, don't leave your pieces alone, move them one after another to protect them. Having lots of holes between your pieces opens you up combinations.
:* Protect your rear, such that the opponent cannot do a combination to your last row, protect your forward pieces.
:* Sacrifice when needed. Draw out your opponent so you can get 2-1 trades the following turn, don't expose your kings without reward.
:* Each king you get is a huge bonus, try to get as many as possible and don't waste them, sacrificing several (generally up to 2) pieces for a king can be alright.
:* Don't forget to block your opponent when possible, you make not only that piece vulnerable but fail to protect it with a counter and give your opponent the chance to take multiple of your pieces in one turn.

Gamehelpcheckers

2018-11-17T12:40:58Z

Postmans: /* Strategy */ not moving the last row is maybe a good strategy for the first few games, but it is generally considered to be a bad strategy as those pieces are wasted *(they don't help elsewhere on the board).

== Objective of the Game ==

Checkers, also known as 'draughts', is a timeless abstract strategy game for two players dating back almost a thousand years. In the game you move your pieces until you've jumped over all pieces of your opponent and have removed them from the board. Players move one piece diagonally at a time in alternating play (starting with light). All references to squares refer to the dark squares only. The board is an 8 by 8 square of squares in alternating light or dark colours. Players should set up pieces on the 12 dark squares in the first three rows closest to them (the light spaces are completely ignored in the game), setting up three rows of 4 checkers.

== Game variants ==

There is a lot of Checkers variants. Four of them are available on Board Game Arena :

:* International Checkers (10x10 board, men can capture backwards, kings can fly, one must capture as many pieces as possible)
:* Straight Checkers (8x8 board, men cannot capture backwards, kings can capture backwards but cannot fly, one must capture if possible but not necessarily as many pieces as possible)
:* Brazilian Checkers (8x8 board, men can capture backwards, kings can fly, one must capture as many pieces as possible)
:* Russian Checkers (8x8 board, men can capture backwards, kings can fly and go on capturing immediately after getting crowned, one must capture if possible but not necessarily as many pieces as possible).

Make sure to check the rules for the variant you are currently playing: the following detailed section applies only to Straight Checkers.

== Straight Checkers ==

===Moving & Capturing===

Take turns moving a checker one space diagonally forward towards the opponent's side of the board on a square that contains no checkers of either player. You may 'jump' your opponents checkers by making a capturing move if your checker is located at most one space behind your opponent's checker (on your side). When capturing you jump over the checker moving two spaces in the same direction and then remove their piece from the game. Capturing multiple pieces using multiple jumps in the same turn is a key part of the game, when doing so you may change which direction they're moving diagonally, but they must still always move forward.

:* If you have the opportunity to jump your opponent's checker, you must.
:* You may continue capturing subsequent checkers until there are no more possible captures.
:* If you have the opportunity to jump a choice of opponent's checkers, you may choose which but must capture one of them.

===Kings===

When one of your pieces reaches the end of the opponent's board that piece is upgraded to a king, these may move in either direction now.

:* Kings may move forward or backward diagonally.
:* Kings can still only move one diagonal space at a time unless capturing.
:* Kings may move both forward and backward in the same turn when capturing.

==Winning==

Complete ''one'' of the following two objectives;

:* Capture all of your opponent's pieces.

'''or'''

:* Block all your opponent's pieces so they can't make any more moves.

==Draws==

A draw is declared if ''any'' of these conditions occur;

:* The same situation repeats itself for the third time (not necessarily consecutive).

'''or'''

:* 25 moves have been played without moving a man forward or making a capture.

==Strategy==

:* Be aggressive, you are more likely to win. Playing to the board sides are safer though without reward.
:* Forward- always forward, it's alright to lose pieces as long as you take the opponent's, save your kings.
:* Safety in numbers, don't leave your pieces alone, move them one after another to protect them. Having lots of holes between your pieces opens you up combinations.
:* Protect your rear, such that the opponent cannot do a combination to your last row, protect your forward pieces.
:* Sacrifice when needed. draw out your opponent so you can get 2-1 trades the following turn, don't expose your kings without reward.
:* Each king you get is a huge bonus, try to get as many as possible and don't waste them, sacrificing several pieces for a king can be alright.
:* Don't forget to block your opponent when possible, you make not only that piece vulnerable but fail to protect it with a counter and give your opponent the chance to take multiple of your pieces in one turn.

Gamehelpcheckers

2018-11-17T12:39:08Z

Postmans: /* Strategy */ generally good strategy is to keep everything together and prevent holes

== Objective of the Game ==

Checkers, also known as 'draughts', is a timeless abstract strategy game for two players dating back almost a thousand years. In the game you move your pieces until you've jumped over all pieces of your opponent and have removed them from the board. Players move one piece diagonally at a time in alternating play (starting with light). All references to squares refer to the dark squares only. The board is an 8 by 8 square of squares in alternating light or dark colours. Players should set up pieces on the 12 dark squares in the first three rows closest to them (the light spaces are completely ignored in the game), setting up three rows of 4 checkers.

== Game variants ==

There is a lot of Checkers variants. Four of them are available on Board Game Arena :

:* International Checkers (10x10 board, men can capture backwards, kings can fly, one must capture as many pieces as possible)
:* Straight Checkers (8x8 board, men cannot capture backwards, kings can capture backwards but cannot fly, one must capture if possible but not necessarily as many pieces as possible)
:* Brazilian Checkers (8x8 board, men can capture backwards, kings can fly, one must capture as many pieces as possible)
:* Russian Checkers (8x8 board, men can capture backwards, kings can fly and go on capturing immediately after getting crowned, one must capture if possible but not necessarily as many pieces as possible).

Make sure to check the rules for the variant you are currently playing: the following detailed section applies only to Straight Checkers.

== Straight Checkers ==

===Moving & Capturing===

Take turns moving a checker one space diagonally forward towards the opponent's side of the board on a square that contains no checkers of either player. You may 'jump' your opponents checkers by making a capturing move if your checker is located at most one space behind your opponent's checker (on your side). When capturing you jump over the checker moving two spaces in the same direction and then remove their piece from the game. Capturing multiple pieces using multiple jumps in the same turn is a key part of the game, when doing so you may change which direction they're moving diagonally, but they must still always move forward.

:* If you have the opportunity to jump your opponent's checker, you must.
:* You may continue capturing subsequent checkers until there are no more possible captures.
:* If you have the opportunity to jump a choice of opponent's checkers, you may choose which but must capture one of them.

===Kings===

When one of your pieces reaches the end of the opponent's board that piece is upgraded to a king, these may move in either direction now.

:* Kings may move forward or backward diagonally.
:* Kings can still only move one diagonal space at a time unless capturing.
:* Kings may move both forward and backward in the same turn when capturing.

==Winning==

Complete ''one'' of the following two objectives;

:* Capture all of your opponent's pieces.

'''or'''

:* Block all your opponent's pieces so they can't make any more moves.

==Draws==

A draw is declared if ''any'' of these conditions occur;

:* The same situation repeats itself for the third time (not necessarily consecutive).

'''or'''

:* 25 moves have been played without moving a man forward or making a capture.

==Strategy==

:* Be aggressive, you are more likely to win. Playing to the board sides are safer though without reward.
:* Forward- always forward, it's alright to lose pieces as long as you take the opponent's, save your kings.
:* Safety in numbers, don't leave your pieces alone, move them one after another to protect them. Having lots of holes between your pieces opens you up combinations.
:* Protect the rear, protect forward or don't move your end row pieces as long as possible to prevent opponent's kings.
:* Sacrifice when needed. draw out your opponent so you can get 2-1 trades the following turn, don't expose your kings without reward.
:* Each king you get is a huge bonus, try to get as many as possible and don't waste them, sacrificing several pieces for a king can be alright.
:* Don't forget to block your opponent when possible, you make not only that piece vulnerable but fail to protect it with a counter and give your opponent the chance to take multiple of your pieces in one turn.

Tips hanabi

2018-11-17T12:35:10Z

Postmans:

This guide is for strategy tips: How to interpret clues, how to give clues, how to decide to play, discard or clue. Click [http://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/Gamehelphanabi here] for the introduction to the game.

== General ==
On BGA, there is no 1 set strategy (convention) to be played. However, if people start playing different conventions in one game, the game is doomed to fail. It is a good idea to discuss before the game which conventions you will be using.

The strategies explained in this guide all have 1 goal in mind: to get the highest possible score, in the most amount of games. There are people who find score less important, and want to challenge themselves logically, or "just want to have fun". Again, communication in advance of the game is key.

Imagine this 'ideal' game. You play with 3 players and reach the maximum score of 25 points (5-colour game). At the end, there will be (at least) 12 cards left in the hands of the players, (at least) 1 clue token available and 25 cards will have been played. This means, that from the 50 cards of the deck, (50 - 25 - 12 =) 13 cards have been discarded and converted into clue tokens. You get 8 clue tokens at the start, and you will have gotten a 5 clue tokens from playing the 5s. This means that in the entire game, there were 13 (discards) + 8 (start) + 5 (completing a colour) - 1 (token left at the end) = 25 clue tokens available for playing.

On average, this means 1 clue token per 1 playable card. No matter what variant you play, you will end up with roughly this number. (Worst: 5-player game, with players that have 4 cards in their hands, playing 5 colours. This gives 22 tokens for 25 cards = 0.88 clue token per card. Best: 2-player game, with players that have 6 cards in their hands, playing 6 colours. This gives 35 tokens for 30 cards = 1.17 token per card.)

The strategies below are based on an optimization of economical use of the clue-tokens. The strategies below are only the basic elements of the convention generally played at BGA. By combining them and using some logical extrapolations one can derive moves which are even more advanced. There are also groups of players on BGA and elsewhere who play with quite different convention sets, where each set has its advantages and downsides.

== Basics ==

The basic game, plays with 50 cards: 10 for each colour. If you want to get the maximum score of 25 points, you need to play 25 cards. Some of the cards are left in the players hands at the end of the game. Depending on the number of players, this will be 8, 12, 12, or 15 (for 2p, 3p, 4p, and 5p respectively). This means in the entire game, there are 17, 13, or 10 cards that can be discarded for clues. You also get 8 clue tokens at the start, making the total number of clues in the entire game 25, 21, or 18. This gives the logical conclusion that you can not clue the colour AND number for every card in your hand, because there are simply not enough clues.

It is therefore paramount, that only useful cards are clued. If you mark a card that you know will not be played, it will cost another clue (-1) to make your team mate discard that card to gain a clue (+1), which is a net result of 0. If the card is not marked, your team mate will discard it eventually to gain a clue (+1), which is a net result of +1.

This leads to '''Basic Rule #1''' (cluing).

Every card that is marked, is either
a) (a) useful card(s) to be saved (interpret it as PLAY LATER), or
b) a useful card to be played (interpret it as PLAY NOW).
Therefore: '''NEVER mark useless cards'''

Most hanabi-players on BGA play by this main rule. So when a clue is given, ask yourself "Is this clue to save something"? If not, it is to get played.
Saving cards is important because there are only 2 cards of value 2, 3, and 4 in each suit, and only 1 card of value 5. To not get stuck on that colour it is urgent to keep the last copy of a card safe (prevent from discarding it).

The game interface puts every new card you draw, on the left-hand side of your hand. This means, the left-most card is the newest card, which makes your right-most card automatically the oldest. If a card has been in your hand for a long time, and you have not been given a clue that marks it, it is logical that it is a useless card and safe to discard.

Hence, '''Basic Rule #2''' (discarding).
'''Discard first what you know is useless (like a clued 1 when all 1s are already played). After that: discard your oldest (right-most) unclued card.'''

Note, that this rule is already a bit tricky. At the start of the game, every card can be considered equally old. This is where personal preference of players starts to matter.

Another result from the newest --> oldest order, is the interpretation of multiple marked cards. When you get a clue that marks multiple cards, and you can identify it is in fact a clue for play (see Basic Rule 1), you should play the newest (left-most) card. If an older card was "the playable card", it would probably be clued earlier. The logical conclusion must be, that the newest card, was the card you all have been waiting for, and you happened to draw it.

'''Basic Rule #3''' (playing).
'''Play the newer (left-most) clued card'''

So most people on BGA expect you to ONLY play the clued card on the left. The rest of the cards are just to be kept on your hand. Beware that there are different approaches and not all players play by this convention.

== Basic Example ==

Imagine the following starting situation:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: W1, Y1, B2, Y2, B2
Player 2: G1, G1, W3, Y2, B1
Player 3: B1, R4, W4, R3, G3

P1 can clue 1s to P2. But that will mark both G1's, so it's not the best option. Better is for P1 to clue P3 1s, or blue. (If BLUE-clue is given, then P3 will not worry about the B1 in P2's hand that is about to be discarded. Both 1-clue or BLUE-clue only mark 1 card, so give equal information about the other cards in P3's hand.)

P2 will clue 1s to P1. He knows that P3 prefers to play his 1. And P2 is the only person who can see that the 1s in both P1's hand, and P3's hand are different.

Everyone will have to wait for B2 to be discarded, before the second B2 can be clued. Everyone will also have to wait for G1 to be discarded, before the second G1 can be clued. Alternatively, when R1 is drawn and clued, then both G1's may be clued, since all 1's will be played and all cards marked 1 can be safely discarded.

So, the first four moves are:

1. P1 clues BLUE to P3 (7 clue-tokens).

2. P2 clues 1 to P1 (6 clue-tokens).

3. P3 plays B1 and draws R1.

4. P1 plays W1 and draws G4.

The game now looks like this, with P2 to move:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: G4, Y(1), B2, Y2, B2 Played: R0, Y0, G0, B1, W1
Player 2: G1, G1, W3, Y2, B1
Player 3: R1, R4, W4, R3, G3 Discarded: -

5. P2 clues RED to P3.

There are two possible continuations from here.
'''Option 1'''

6. P3 plays R1 and draws Y5.

7. P1 plays Y1 and draws Y3.

8. P2 discards B1 and draws G2 (7 clues).

9. P3 clues 1 to P2 (6 clues).

10. P1 discards B2 and draws R4 (7 clues).

11. P2 plays G1 and draws B5.

12. P3 clues 2 to P2 (6 clues).

And the game will look like this, with P1 to move:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: R4, Y3, G4, B(2), Y(2) Played: R1, Y1, G1, B1, W1
Player 2: B5, G2, G(1), W3, Y2
Player 3: Y5, (R)4, W4, (R)3, G3 Discarded: B1, B2

'''Option 2'''

6. P3 clues 1 to P2 (5 clues). This move delays him playing the R1, but will make P2 more confident in discarding since he knows all the useless 1s.

7. P1 plays Y1 and draws Y5.

8. P2 plays G1 and draws Y3.

9. P3 plays R1 and draws G2.

10. P1 discards B2 and draws R4 (6 clues).

11. P2 discards B1 and draws B5 (7 clues).

12. P3 clues 2 to P2 (6 clues).

And the game will look like this, with P1 to move:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: R4, Y5, G4, B(2), Y(2) Played: R1, Y1, G1, B1, W1
Player 2: B5, Y3, G(1), W3, Y2
Player 3: G2, (R)4, W4, (R)3, G3 Discarded: B2, B1

Both options are equally valid. They end up in the same situation, with only the cards in hands being in a different order. Since the cards are picked at random, there is no valid reason to say one option is better than the other.

In both options, the 2-clue is given to P1, to mark both 2s as playable. Since all 1s are played, all 2s will be playable.
Note that, in this game, two 1s where marked with one clue (and played); and two 2s were marked with one clue (and will be played). As stated in the beginning, there are a total of 21 clues (in this variant) to mark 25 cards. At this point in the game, there are 16 clues left to mark 18 cards. With only two more "efficient" clues, the game can end with a perfect score.

== Advanced Moves ==

=== Intentional Discard ===

Sometimes players can have hands where all cards are important and unplayable. To tell a player that his hand blocked, discard your '''CHOP''' card, even when you know you have a playable card. This is often done when you are low on (or out of) clue-tokens. This is a risky move, since your team mate(s) might expect you to play, instead of discard. ('''always try to give him a clue token to use or help him play his hand as fast as possible''')

=== Positional Discard ===

Sometimes at the end of the game you will have no useful cards to play. You want to give a clue, but you have no remaining clue-tokens. In this case, you can discard the card in the same position as the card that you want that player to play.

<code>
Example Positional Discard

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R5, Y5, G4, B5, W5
Player 2: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?3
Player 3: G5, B2, R4, B3, W1 Discarded: -
</code>
In this example, when there are no clue-tokens left, Player 2 can discard his DRAW, to indicate to Player 3 the position of the last remaining playable card.

=== Hint to Discard ===

You can hint to a player to discard specific cards in order to save multiple cards, to to save cards without causing a confusion about finesse/reverse.

<code>
Example Hint to Discard
In this example, all 1s have been played already. Both the Y3 and the G4 need to be saved.

Player 1: G1, R1, B4, Y3, G4
</code>
If Player 1 is given a 4-clue, the G4 will be saved, but the Y3 will be the new CHOP card. One option to save both Y3, and G4 is to give Player 1, a 1-clue. This would make the R1 the new CHOP card, and the G1 will be the next CHOP card.

=== Double Save ===

This is an alternative solution if you are low on clue-tokens, or don't have enough players to execute multiple saves in a row.

<code>
Example Double Save
In this example, W1 has not been played yet. Both the Y3 and the G4 need to be saved.

Player 1: G1, R1, B4, Y3, G4
</code>
This situation is similar as the Hint to Discard. However, in this situation a 1-clue will be interpreted as PLAY G1 (which isn't playable). To save both Y3 and G4, a blue-clue can be given to Player 1. This will cause him to BOMB on B4 (which isn't playable). But this tells him that all the cards RIGHT of the B4 needed to be saved. Note that this is a desperate measure, because it costs 2 clue-tokens (1 for the blue-clue and 1 for the BOMB card that should have been discarded) for 2 saves, but gives you no information about the saved cards.

----

'''2P GAMES'''<br>
With 2 players, you are limited in your options. Therefore the gameplay is different from 3+P games.

----

'''3+P GAMES'''<br>
=== Prompt ===
A prompt can clarify (an) already marked card(s) to be played as well as mark the next card to play.

<code>
Example Prompt

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y1, G0, B2, W0
Player 2: ??, ??, ??, ?2, ?5
Player 3: Y3, G5, R4, B3, W1 Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 give a yellow-clue to Player 3, marking Y3 as PLAY. Player 2 sees that the Y3 is ALMOST playable. This means that Player 2 has the LOGICAL in-between step: Player 2 has to play Y2. In this case, the Y2 is not on the DRAW card. The logical place for that card is the already marked 2. So Player 2 can assume that his card between the CHOP and the 5 is the Y2.

=== Finesse ===
This advanced move, can get you 2 cards into play, with only 1 clue-token. You do this, by marking an ALMOST playable card as playable. Someone else will have to play the LOGICAL in-between step, to make the card genuinely playable.

<code>
Example Finesse (#1)

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0
Player 2: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?5
Player 3: G5, B2, R4, B3, W1 Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 gives a blue-clue to Player 3, marking B2 as PLAY, and B3 as SAVE. Player 2 sees that the B2 is ALMOST playable. This means that Player 2 has the LOGICAL inbetween step: Player 2 has to play B1. The only logical place for that card is at the '''LEFT-MOST POSITION''' so Player 2 can assume that the '''DRAW''' card is the playable B1. If it was somewhere else in your hand, the card would have been clued earlier. '''Note: for the in-between player, a prompt always has priority over a finesse; if a player has a marked card that can be the in-between card, they should play it.'''

<code>
Example Finesse (#2)

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?? Played: R0, Y1, G2, B0, W1
Player 2: Y2, R1, R1, G5, W5
Player 3: XX, XX, R2, XX, XX Discarded: G4, R3
</code>

Player 1 gives a 5-clue to Player 2, saving W5 and G5 from being discarded. Player 2 sees nothing of interest in the hand of Player 3, so discards his CHOP (R1) and draws R4. Player 3 gives a setup for Player 1 by marking Y2 with a yellow-clue. The game now looks like this:
<code>
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?? Played: R0, Y1, G2, B0, W1
Player 2: R4,*Y2, R1, G5*,W5*
Player 3: XX, XX, R2, XX, XX Discarded: G4, R3, R1
</code>

Player 1 can't give a red-clue to Player 2, because this would cause Player 2 to bomb with r4. Instead, Player 1 now gives a red-clue to Player 3, marking R2 as PLAY. Player 2 sees that the R2 is ALMOST playable. This means that Player 2 has the LOGICAL inbetween step: Player 2 has to play R1. Player 2 knows that R1 can only be at the DRAW position, or at the middle position. Since Player 1 deliberately let Player 2 discard a playable 1 the round before, Player 2 concludes that she was already holding a second R1 at the time. Therefore, the LOGICAL place for the R1 to be, is at the middle position; NOT the DRAW position.

=== Bluff ===
This works the same as finesse. Only this time, the LOGICAL inbetween step, is a different playable card, so the player is tricked. It is slightly less strong that finesse, because it gives 1 play + 1 save for 1 clue-token.

<code>
Example Bluff

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0
Player 2: W1, B2, R4, B3, G5
Player 3: ??, ??, ??, ??, R? Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 gives a red-clue to Player 3, marking it as PLAY. Player 2 sees that the R2 is ALMOST playable, so applies finesse logic and plays his DRAW card. Much to Player 2's surprise, he has not played R1, but W1 (which was also playable). Because Player 3 saw Player 2 playing his DRAW, which was a different colour than the clue he received, Player 3 knows it was a bluffed finesse situation. He concludes that his red card is R2, and saves it for later.

=== Reverse ===
This works the same as finesse. Only this time, the LOGICAL inbetween step, is a different players hand. This also gets 2 plays for 1 clue-token, but takes longer than a normal finesse.

<code>
Example Reverse

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0
Player 2: ??, ??, W?, ??, ??
Player 3: W1, B2, R4, B3, G5 Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 gives a white-clue to Player 2, marking it as PLAY. However, Player 2 sees that the DRAW card of Player 3 is a playable card of the same colour. Therefore, Player 2 assumes that it is (reversed) finesse, and that his white is ALMOST playable. Player 2 decides to discard his CHOP. Player 3 recognises the (reversed) finesse play, and plays his DRAW card to play the W1.

''Having the optimal player draw the last card (endgame)''

At the end of the game, the person who draws the last card (which happens either by playing or discarding) triggers the end of the game. After the last card is drawn, each player receives exactly one more turn. Sometimes near the end of the game you will want a specific player to play or discard in order to get the last turn. Giving an unusable clue can prevent a player from drawing the last card and begin the last round.

<code>
Table:
<br />'''1 card remaining in deck - Your turn'''
<br />R Y G B W M
<br />5 5 3 4 5 5

XX|XX|5b - me

??|??|3? - you

1y|4g|5g - 3rd player
</code>

In this situation, assume everyone knows where the remaining playable cards are. Instead of discarding in this situation, you want the 3rd player be the one to play and draw the last card. Give any clue to prevent triggering the endgame so that 3rd player can play 4g triggering the endgame and then in their last turn play the 5g.

== Strategies for 2-Player games ==
'''Strategy #1'''

Pro's: Easy to execute<br>
Con's: Double discard possible for 4s. Easy to get the hands locked.<br>

''Guidelines''<br>
1. Number-clue means “save all the cards that were marked by this clue”. Try to give save-clues as late as possible.

2. Non-unique 2s and 3s must be saved as much as possible. (Try to avoid double saves if possible.) Uniques should always be saved.

3. Colour-clues mean “play the newest card that was marked by this clue”. Other cards that are marked by the clue may be discarded when not previously marked by a number-clue.

4. If more than 5 clue-tokens are available, discarding unknown cards should be avoided, but known useless cards may be discarded freely.

5. If there are less than 2 clue-tokens available, colour-clues may be given only
a. If it leads to two or more plays in a row.
b. If the playable card is on CHOP.

6. A colour-clue may re-mark a card that’s already marked by a number if:
a. It also marks a previously unmarked card that is playable. (Either immediately, or immediately after playing the card that was marked with a number.)
b. As a stall-clue (see 7).

7. When just 2 of the hand-slots are filled with non-saved cards, that player should try to avoid discarding two turns in a row (including the turn after the save-clue that leads to this state).

8. If a clue is given while avoiding discarding twice in a row: guideline 4 no longer applies; also stall clues may be given:
a. A colour-clue that re-marks a saved card, without marking an unmarked card. For example to indicate an accidental double save, or to clarify a playable card.
b. An empty-clue: a clue that marks none of the cards. This can be used to convey information on multiple playable cards.
c. A 5-clue. If 5a and 5b are not possible, a re-clue on the 5s is allowed.

9. Nearing the end of the game, when the number of saved cards in all the hands + the number of cards in the deck is equal to the number of card that need to be played to get the maximum (possible) score, discarding should be avoided as much as possible - so stall clues may be given, non-unique 4s may be saved, etc.

'''Strategy #2'''

Pro's: Guarantees a score of 28+<br>
Con's: Easy to get the hands locked.<br>

''Guidelines''<br>
The game is divided into three stages:
1. The early game: The first 3 or 4 moves of the game.
2. The mid game: Everything that's not early or late game.
3. The late game: The last moves, starting from the point where the number of "saved cards" + deck = maximum achievable score.

''Early game''<br>
In the early game, the goal is to 'sort' the hand cards into "old" cards and "new" cards. Since all cards are equally old in the beginning, it is unclear which cards are relevant, and which aren't. In order to do so, players follow these guidelines:

1. Players are not allowed to discard before 3 clue-tokens are spent.

2. After the early game, the right-most unclued cards will be considered "old" and therefore discardable. So the focus of the clues in the early game should be to save the valuable three right-most cards.

3. 1s should be marked with colour as much as possible.

4. A 1-clue should only be given when it marks three or more unique 1s.

5. 4-clues should only be given, when the 4 is blocking a colour-clue in the future. Cards marked with 4 in the early game should be discarded in the mid game.

''Mid game''<br>
In the mid game, the goal is to play as many playable cards as possible, and save as many useful cards as possible. In order to do so, players follow these guidelines:

1. Players will be as efficient as possible with clue-tokens. Re-marking cards (spending a clue-token that gives MORE information on a saved card) is highly discouraged.

2. All 2s, 3s and 5s must be saved, even when the 2s or 3s are not unique.

3a. Any clue means "play the newest, PREVIOUSLY UNMARKED, card". With the exception of a SAVE-clue, or a correction-clue.

3b. A card can be saved in four possible ways:
I. A number-clue that marks the CHOP card.
II. A colour-clue that marks a PLAY card, and in addition marks another card of the same colour. This other card is saved.
III. A SCREAM discard. When player 1 knows he can play a card, but still chooses to discard, it is called a SCREAM discard. This signals to player 2 that he CHOP card must be saved. It is recommended that player 2 spends the token, in case he has a long chain of cards that need saving.
IV. A deliberate misplay. When player 1 gives player 2 a PLAY-clue, that causes player 2 to BOMB, player 2 knows to SAVE all the cards OLDER than the card that was used to bomb.
3c. When a useless card is marked as SAVE, it is desired to give a correction-clue. This re-marks the card, indicating its uselessness. Preferably, this shouldn't mark any other cards. When it does, the clue is a PLAY-clue with the correction as an additional benefit.

4. Double discarding (discarding a card that could be the same card that was just discarded), is not allowed.

5. Play-clues shouldn't be given when there are 3 or less clue-tokens available, except when it leads to more than 1 PLAY.

6. When a player has only two unmarked cards in his hand (all other slots are filled with SAVES), then this player should keep discarding to a minimum.

7. When a player has only one unmarked card in his hand, then this player is forbidden to discard two turns in a row.

''End game''<br>
In the end game, the goal is to get the last remaining cards sorted in the correct hands, to maximise the score. This is achieved, by following these guidelines:

1. Discarding is highly discouraged. If there are enough clue-tokens, then stall-clues should be given.

2. Playable cards must be prioritised based on the number of plays it unlocks. This way the number of SAVED cards in hands is minimised.

3. It is recommended that both players keep at least one 5 in their hand. This way, in the last turn, both players can make a final move.

Tips hanabi

2018-11-17T12:34:10Z

Postmans:

This guide is for strategy tips: How to interpret clues, how to give clues, how to decide to play, discard or clue. Click [http://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/Gamehelphanabi here] for the introduction to the game.

== General ==
On BGA, there is no 1 set strategy (convention) to be played. However, if people start playing different conventions in one game, the game is doomed to fail. It is a good idea to discuss before the game which conventions you will be using.

The strategies explained in this guide all have 1 goal in mind: to get the highest possible score, in the most amount of games. There are people who find score less important, and want to challenge themselves logically, or "just want to have fun". Again, communication in advance of the game is key.

Imagine this 'ideal' game. You play with 3 players and reach the maximum score of 25 points (5-colour game). At the end, there will be (at least) 12 cards left in the hands of the players, (at least) 1 clue token available and 25 cards will have been played. This means, that from the 50 cards of the deck, (50 - 25 - 12 =) 13 cards have been discarded and converted into clue tokens. You get 8 clue tokens at the start, and you will have gotten a 5 clue tokens from playing the 5s. This means that in the entire game, there were 13 (discards) + 8 (start) + 5 (completing a colour) - 1 (token left at the end) = 25 clue tokens available for playing.

On average, this means 1 clue token per 1 playable card. No matter what variant you play, you will end up with roughly this number. (Worst: 5-player game, with players that have 4 cards in their hands, playing 5 colours. This gives 22 tokens for 25 cards = 0.88 clue token per card. Best: 2-player game, with players that have 6 cards in their hands, playing 6 colours. This gives 35 tokens for 30 cards = 1.17 token per card.)

The strategies below are based on an optimization of economical use of the clue-tokens. The strategies below are only the basic elements of the convention generally played at BGA. By combining them and using some logical extrapolations one can derive moves which are even more advanced.

== Basics ==

The basic game, plays with 50 cards: 10 for each colour. If you want to get the maximum score of 25 points, you need to play 25 cards. Some of the cards are left in the players hands at the end of the game. Depending on the number of players, this will be 8, 12, 12, or 15 (for 2p, 3p, 4p, and 5p respectively). This means in the entire game, there are 17, 13, or 10 cards that can be discarded for clues. You also get 8 clue tokens at the start, making the total number of clues in the entire game 25, 21, or 18. This gives the logical conclusion that you can not clue the colour AND number for every card in your hand, because there are simply not enough clues.

It is therefore paramount, that only useful cards are clued. If you mark a card that you know will not be played, it will cost another clue (-1) to make your team mate discard that card to gain a clue (+1), which is a net result of 0. If the card is not marked, your team mate will discard it eventually to gain a clue (+1), which is a net result of +1.

This leads to '''Basic Rule #1''' (cluing).

Every card that is marked, is either
a) (a) useful card(s) to be saved (interpret it as PLAY LATER), or
b) a useful card to be played (interpret it as PLAY NOW).
Therefore: '''NEVER mark useless cards'''

Most hanabi-players on BGA play by this main rule. So when a clue is given, ask yourself "Is this clue to save something"? If not, it is to get played.
Saving cards is important because there are only 2 cards of value 2, 3, and 4 in each suit, and only 1 card of value 5. To not get stuck on that colour it is urgent to keep the last copy of a card safe (prevent from discarding it).

The game interface puts every new card you draw, on the left-hand side of your hand. This means, the left-most card is the newest card, which makes your right-most card automatically the oldest. If a card has been in your hand for a long time, and you have not been given a clue that marks it, it is logical that it is a useless card and safe to discard.

Hence, '''Basic Rule #2''' (discarding).
'''Discard first what you know is useless (like a clued 1 when all 1s are already played). After that: discard your oldest (right-most) unclued card.'''

Note, that this rule is already a bit tricky. At the start of the game, every card can be considered equally old. This is where personal preference of players starts to matter.

Another result from the newest --> oldest order, is the interpretation of multiple marked cards. When you get a clue that marks multiple cards, and you can identify it is in fact a clue for play (see Basic Rule 1), you should play the newest (left-most) card. If an older card was "the playable card", it would probably be clued earlier. The logical conclusion must be, that the newest card, was the card you all have been waiting for, and you happened to draw it.

'''Basic Rule #3''' (playing).
'''Play the newer (left-most) clued card'''

So most people on BGA expect you to ONLY play the clued card on the left. The rest of the cards are just to be kept on your hand. Beware that there are different approaches and not all players play by this convention.

== Basic Example ==

Imagine the following starting situation:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: W1, Y1, B2, Y2, B2
Player 2: G1, G1, W3, Y2, B1
Player 3: B1, R4, W4, R3, G3

P1 can clue 1s to P2. But that will mark both G1's, so it's not the best option. Better is for P1 to clue P3 1s, or blue. (If BLUE-clue is given, then P3 will not worry about the B1 in P2's hand that is about to be discarded. Both 1-clue or BLUE-clue only mark 1 card, so give equal information about the other cards in P3's hand.)

P2 will clue 1s to P1. He knows that P3 prefers to play his 1. And P2 is the only person who can see that the 1s in both P1's hand, and P3's hand are different.

Everyone will have to wait for B2 to be discarded, before the second B2 can be clued. Everyone will also have to wait for G1 to be discarded, before the second G1 can be clued. Alternatively, when R1 is drawn and clued, then both G1's may be clued, since all 1's will be played and all cards marked 1 can be safely discarded.

So, the first four moves are:

1. P1 clues BLUE to P3 (7 clue-tokens).

2. P2 clues 1 to P1 (6 clue-tokens).

3. P3 plays B1 and draws R1.

4. P1 plays W1 and draws G4.

The game now looks like this, with P2 to move:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: G4, Y(1), B2, Y2, B2 Played: R0, Y0, G0, B1, W1
Player 2: G1, G1, W3, Y2, B1
Player 3: R1, R4, W4, R3, G3 Discarded: -

5. P2 clues RED to P3.

There are two possible continuations from here.
'''Option 1'''

6. P3 plays R1 and draws Y5.

7. P1 plays Y1 and draws Y3.

8. P2 discards B1 and draws G2 (7 clues).

9. P3 clues 1 to P2 (6 clues).

10. P1 discards B2 and draws R4 (7 clues).

11. P2 plays G1 and draws B5.

12. P3 clues 2 to P2 (6 clues).

And the game will look like this, with P1 to move:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: R4, Y3, G4, B(2), Y(2) Played: R1, Y1, G1, B1, W1
Player 2: B5, G2, G(1), W3, Y2
Player 3: Y5, (R)4, W4, (R)3, G3 Discarded: B1, B2

'''Option 2'''

6. P3 clues 1 to P2 (5 clues). This move delays him playing the R1, but will make P2 more confident in discarding since he knows all the useless 1s.

7. P1 plays Y1 and draws Y5.

8. P2 plays G1 and draws Y3.

9. P3 plays R1 and draws G2.

10. P1 discards B2 and draws R4 (6 clues).

11. P2 discards B1 and draws B5 (7 clues).

12. P3 clues 2 to P2 (6 clues).

And the game will look like this, with P1 to move:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: R4, Y5, G4, B(2), Y(2) Played: R1, Y1, G1, B1, W1
Player 2: B5, Y3, G(1), W3, Y2
Player 3: G2, (R)4, W4, (R)3, G3 Discarded: B2, B1

Both options are equally valid. They end up in the same situation, with only the cards in hands being in a different order. Since the cards are picked at random, there is no valid reason to say one option is better than the other.

In both options, the 2-clue is given to P1, to mark both 2s as playable. Since all 1s are played, all 2s will be playable.
Note that, in this game, two 1s where marked with one clue (and played); and two 2s were marked with one clue (and will be played). As stated in the beginning, there are a total of 21 clues (in this variant) to mark 25 cards. At this point in the game, there are 16 clues left to mark 18 cards. With only two more "efficient" clues, the game can end with a perfect score.

== Advanced Moves ==

=== Intentional Discard ===

Sometimes players can have hands where all cards are important and unplayable. To tell a player that his hand blocked, discard your '''CHOP''' card, even when you know you have a playable card. This is often done when you are low on (or out of) clue-tokens. This is a risky move, since your team mate(s) might expect you to play, instead of discard. ('''always try to give him a clue token to use or help him play his hand as fast as possible''')

=== Positional Discard ===

Sometimes at the end of the game you will have no useful cards to play. You want to give a clue, but you have no remaining clue-tokens. In this case, you can discard the card in the same position as the card that you want that player to play.

<code>
Example Positional Discard

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R5, Y5, G4, B5, W5
Player 2: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?3
Player 3: G5, B2, R4, B3, W1 Discarded: -
</code>
In this example, when there are no clue-tokens left, Player 2 can discard his DRAW, to indicate to Player 3 the position of the last remaining playable card.

=== Hint to Discard ===

You can hint to a player to discard specific cards in order to save multiple cards, to to save cards without causing a confusion about finesse/reverse.

<code>
Example Hint to Discard
In this example, all 1s have been played already. Both the Y3 and the G4 need to be saved.

Player 1: G1, R1, B4, Y3, G4
</code>
If Player 1 is given a 4-clue, the G4 will be saved, but the Y3 will be the new CHOP card. One option to save both Y3, and G4 is to give Player 1, a 1-clue. This would make the R1 the new CHOP card, and the G1 will be the next CHOP card.

=== Double Save ===

This is an alternative solution if you are low on clue-tokens, or don't have enough players to execute multiple saves in a row.

<code>
Example Double Save
In this example, W1 has not been played yet. Both the Y3 and the G4 need to be saved.

Player 1: G1, R1, B4, Y3, G4
</code>
This situation is similar as the Hint to Discard. However, in this situation a 1-clue will be interpreted as PLAY G1 (which isn't playable). To save both Y3 and G4, a blue-clue can be given to Player 1. This will cause him to BOMB on B4 (which isn't playable). But this tells him that all the cards RIGHT of the B4 needed to be saved. Note that this is a desperate measure, because it costs 2 clue-tokens (1 for the blue-clue and 1 for the BOMB card that should have been discarded) for 2 saves, but gives you no information about the saved cards.

----

'''2P GAMES'''<br>
With 2 players, you are limited in your options. Therefore the gameplay is different from 3+P games.

----

'''3+P GAMES'''<br>
=== Prompt ===
A prompt can clarify (an) already marked card(s) to be played as well as mark the next card to play.

<code>
Example Prompt

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y1, G0, B2, W0
Player 2: ??, ??, ??, ?2, ?5
Player 3: Y3, G5, R4, B3, W1 Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 give a yellow-clue to Player 3, marking Y3 as PLAY. Player 2 sees that the Y3 is ALMOST playable. This means that Player 2 has the LOGICAL in-between step: Player 2 has to play Y2. In this case, the Y2 is not on the DRAW card. The logical place for that card is the already marked 2. So Player 2 can assume that his card between the CHOP and the 5 is the Y2.

=== Finesse ===
This advanced move, can get you 2 cards into play, with only 1 clue-token. You do this, by marking an ALMOST playable card as playable. Someone else will have to play the LOGICAL in-between step, to make the card genuinely playable.

<code>
Example Finesse (#1)

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0
Player 2: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?5
Player 3: G5, B2, R4, B3, W1 Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 gives a blue-clue to Player 3, marking B2 as PLAY, and B3 as SAVE. Player 2 sees that the B2 is ALMOST playable. This means that Player 2 has the LOGICAL inbetween step: Player 2 has to play B1. The only logical place for that card is at the '''LEFT-MOST POSITION''' so Player 2 can assume that the '''DRAW''' card is the playable B1. If it was somewhere else in your hand, the card would have been clued earlier. '''Note: for the in-between player, a prompt always has priority over a finesse; if a player has a marked card that can be the in-between card, they should play it.'''

<code>
Example Finesse (#2)

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?? Played: R0, Y1, G2, B0, W1
Player 2: Y2, R1, R1, G5, W5
Player 3: XX, XX, R2, XX, XX Discarded: G4, R3
</code>

Player 1 gives a 5-clue to Player 2, saving W5 and G5 from being discarded. Player 2 sees nothing of interest in the hand of Player 3, so discards his CHOP (R1) and draws R4. Player 3 gives a setup for Player 1 by marking Y2 with a yellow-clue. The game now looks like this:
<code>
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?? Played: R0, Y1, G2, B0, W1
Player 2: R4,*Y2, R1, G5*,W5*
Player 3: XX, XX, R2, XX, XX Discarded: G4, R3, R1
</code>

Player 1 can't give a red-clue to Player 2, because this would cause Player 2 to bomb with r4. Instead, Player 1 now gives a red-clue to Player 3, marking R2 as PLAY. Player 2 sees that the R2 is ALMOST playable. This means that Player 2 has the LOGICAL inbetween step: Player 2 has to play R1. Player 2 knows that R1 can only be at the DRAW position, or at the middle position. Since Player 1 deliberately let Player 2 discard a playable 1 the round before, Player 2 concludes that she was already holding a second R1 at the time. Therefore, the LOGICAL place for the R1 to be, is at the middle position; NOT the DRAW position.

=== Bluff ===
This works the same as finesse. Only this time, the LOGICAL inbetween step, is a different playable card, so the player is tricked. It is slightly less strong that finesse, because it gives 1 play + 1 save for 1 clue-token.

<code>
Example Bluff

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0
Player 2: W1, B2, R4, B3, G5
Player 3: ??, ??, ??, ??, R? Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 gives a red-clue to Player 3, marking it as PLAY. Player 2 sees that the R2 is ALMOST playable, so applies finesse logic and plays his DRAW card. Much to Player 2's surprise, he has not played R1, but W1 (which was also playable). Because Player 3 saw Player 2 playing his DRAW, which was a different colour than the clue he received, Player 3 knows it was a bluffed finesse situation. He concludes that his red card is R2, and saves it for later.

=== Reverse ===
This works the same as finesse. Only this time, the LOGICAL inbetween step, is a different players hand. This also gets 2 plays for 1 clue-token, but takes longer than a normal finesse.

<code>
Example Reverse

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0
Player 2: ??, ??, W?, ??, ??
Player 3: W1, B2, R4, B3, G5 Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 gives a white-clue to Player 2, marking it as PLAY. However, Player 2 sees that the DRAW card of Player 3 is a playable card of the same colour. Therefore, Player 2 assumes that it is (reversed) finesse, and that his white is ALMOST playable. Player 2 decides to discard his CHOP. Player 3 recognises the (reversed) finesse play, and plays his DRAW card to play the W1.

''Having the optimal player draw the last card (endgame)''

At the end of the game, the person who draws the last card (which happens either by playing or discarding) triggers the end of the game. After the last card is drawn, each player receives exactly one more turn. Sometimes near the end of the game you will want a specific player to play or discard in order to get the last turn. Giving an unusable clue can prevent a player from drawing the last card and begin the last round.

<code>
Table:
<br />'''1 card remaining in deck - Your turn'''
<br />R Y G B W M
<br />5 5 3 4 5 5

XX|XX|5b - me

??|??|3? - you

1y|4g|5g - 3rd player
</code>

In this situation, assume everyone knows where the remaining playable cards are. Instead of discarding in this situation, you want the 3rd player be the one to play and draw the last card. Give any clue to prevent triggering the endgame so that 3rd player can play 4g triggering the endgame and then in their last turn play the 5g.

== Strategies for 2-Player games ==
'''Strategy #1'''

Pro's: Easy to execute<br>
Con's: Double discard possible for 4s. Easy to get the hands locked.<br>

''Guidelines''<br>
1. Number-clue means “save all the cards that were marked by this clue”. Try to give save-clues as late as possible.

2. Non-unique 2s and 3s must be saved as much as possible. (Try to avoid double saves if possible.) Uniques should always be saved.

3. Colour-clues mean “play the newest card that was marked by this clue”. Other cards that are marked by the clue may be discarded when not previously marked by a number-clue.

4. If more than 5 clue-tokens are available, discarding unknown cards should be avoided, but known useless cards may be discarded freely.

5. If there are less than 2 clue-tokens available, colour-clues may be given only
a. If it leads to two or more plays in a row.
b. If the playable card is on CHOP.

6. A colour-clue may re-mark a card that’s already marked by a number if:
a. It also marks a previously unmarked card that is playable. (Either immediately, or immediately after playing the card that was marked with a number.)
b. As a stall-clue (see 7).

7. When just 2 of the hand-slots are filled with non-saved cards, that player should try to avoid discarding two turns in a row (including the turn after the save-clue that leads to this state).

8. If a clue is given while avoiding discarding twice in a row: guideline 4 no longer applies; also stall clues may be given:
a. A colour-clue that re-marks a saved card, without marking an unmarked card. For example to indicate an accidental double save, or to clarify a playable card.
b. An empty-clue: a clue that marks none of the cards. This can be used to convey information on multiple playable cards.
c. A 5-clue. If 5a and 5b are not possible, a re-clue on the 5s is allowed.

9. Nearing the end of the game, when the number of saved cards in all the hands + the number of cards in the deck is equal to the number of card that need to be played to get the maximum (possible) score, discarding should be avoided as much as possible - so stall clues may be given, non-unique 4s may be saved, etc.

'''Strategy #2'''

Pro's: Guarantees a score of 28+<br>
Con's: Easy to get the hands locked.<br>

''Guidelines''<br>
The game is divided into three stages:
1. The early game: The first 3 or 4 moves of the game.
2. The mid game: Everything that's not early or late game.
3. The late game: The last moves, starting from the point where the number of "saved cards" + deck = maximum achievable score.

''Early game''<br>
In the early game, the goal is to 'sort' the hand cards into "old" cards and "new" cards. Since all cards are equally old in the beginning, it is unclear which cards are relevant, and which aren't. In order to do so, players follow these guidelines:

1. Players are not allowed to discard before 3 clue-tokens are spent.

2. After the early game, the right-most unclued cards will be considered "old" and therefore discardable. So the focus of the clues in the early game should be to save the valuable three right-most cards.

3. 1s should be marked with colour as much as possible.

4. A 1-clue should only be given when it marks three or more unique 1s.

5. 4-clues should only be given, when the 4 is blocking a colour-clue in the future. Cards marked with 4 in the early game should be discarded in the mid game.

''Mid game''<br>
In the mid game, the goal is to play as many playable cards as possible, and save as many useful cards as possible. In order to do so, players follow these guidelines:

1. Players will be as efficient as possible with clue-tokens. Re-marking cards (spending a clue-token that gives MORE information on a saved card) is highly discouraged.

2. All 2s, 3s and 5s must be saved, even when the 2s or 3s are not unique.

3a. Any clue means "play the newest, PREVIOUSLY UNMARKED, card". With the exception of a SAVE-clue, or a correction-clue.

3b. A card can be saved in four possible ways:
I. A number-clue that marks the CHOP card.
II. A colour-clue that marks a PLAY card, and in addition marks another card of the same colour. This other card is saved.
III. A SCREAM discard. When player 1 knows he can play a card, but still chooses to discard, it is called a SCREAM discard. This signals to player 2 that he CHOP card must be saved. It is recommended that player 2 spends the token, in case he has a long chain of cards that need saving.
IV. A deliberate misplay. When player 1 gives player 2 a PLAY-clue, that causes player 2 to BOMB, player 2 knows to SAVE all the cards OLDER than the card that was used to bomb.
3c. When a useless card is marked as SAVE, it is desired to give a correction-clue. This re-marks the card, indicating its uselessness. Preferably, this shouldn't mark any other cards. When it does, the clue is a PLAY-clue with the correction as an additional benefit.

4. Double discarding (discarding a card that could be the same card that was just discarded), is not allowed.

5. Play-clues shouldn't be given when there are 3 or less clue-tokens available, except when it leads to more than 1 PLAY.

6. When a player has only two unmarked cards in his hand (all other slots are filled with SAVES), then this player should keep discarding to a minimum.

7. When a player has only one unmarked card in his hand, then this player is forbidden to discard two turns in a row.

''End game''<br>
In the end game, the goal is to get the last remaining cards sorted in the correct hands, to maximise the score. This is achieved, by following these guidelines:

1. Discarding is highly discouraged. If there are enough clue-tokens, then stall-clues should be given.

2. Playable cards must be prioritised based on the number of plays it unlocks. This way the number of SAVED cards in hands is minimised.

3. It is recommended that both players keep at least one 5 in their hand. This way, in the last turn, both players can make a final move.

Tips hanabi

2018-11-17T12:28:16Z

Postmans: /* General */ more friendly wording, but trying to catch the same goal, some discussion in advance. Using red thumbs for mismatching play is rather rare, and public red thumbs even not allowed

This guide is for strategy tips: How to interpret clues, how to give clues, how to decide to play, discard or clue. Click [http://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/Gamehelphanabi here] for the introduction to the game.

== General ==
On BGA, there is no 1 set strategy (convention) to be played. However, if people start playing different conventions in one game, the game is doomed to fail. It is a good idea to discuss before the game which conventions you will be using.

The strategies explained in this guide all have 1 goal in mind: to get the highest possible score, in the most amount of games. There are people who find score less important, and want to challenge themselves logically, or "just want to have fun". Again, communication in advance of the game is key.

Imagine this 'ideal' game. You play with 3 players and reach the maximum score of 25 points (5-colour game). At the end, there will be (at least) 12 cards left in the hands of the players, (at least) 1 clue token available and 25 cards will have been played. This means, that from the 50 cards of the deck, (50 - 25 - 12 =) 13 cards have been discarded and converted into clue tokens. You get 8 clue tokens at the start, and you will have gotten a 5 clue tokens from playing the 5s. This means that in the entire game, there were 13 (discards) + 8 (start) + 5 (completing a colour) - 1 (token left at the end) = 25 clue tokens available for playing.

On average, this means 1 clue token per 1 playable card. No matter what variant you play, you will end up with roughly this number. (Worst: 5-player game, with players that have 4 cards in their hands, playing 5 colours. This gives 22 tokens for 25 cards = 0.88 clue token per card. Best: 2-player game, with players that have 6 cards in their hands, playing 6 colours. This gives 35 tokens for 30 cards = 1.17 token per card.)

All strategies below are based on an optimisation of economical use of the clue-tokens.

== Basics ==

The basic game, plays with 50 cards: 10 for each colour. If you want to get the maximum score of 25 points, you need to play 25 cards. Some of the cards are left in the players hands at the end of the game. Depending on the number of players, this will be 8, 12, 12, or 15 (for 2p, 3p, 4p, and 5p respectively). This means in the entire game, there are 17, 13, or 10 cards that can be discarded for clues. You also get 8 clue tokens at the start, making the total number of clues in the entire game 25, 21, or 18. This gives the logical conclusion that you can not clue the colour AND number for every card in your hand, because there are simply not enough clues.

It is therefore paramount, that only useful cards are clued. If you mark a card that you know will not be played, it will cost another clue (-1) to make your team mate discard that card to gain a clue (+1), which is a net result of 0. If the card is not marked, your team mate will discard it eventually to gain a clue (+1), which is a net result of +1.

This leads to '''Basic Rule #1''' (cluing).

Every card that is marked, is either
a) (a) useful card(s) to be saved (interpret it as PLAY LATER), or
b) a useful card to be played (interpret it as PLAY NOW).
Therefore: '''NEVER mark useless cards'''

Most hanabi-players on BGA play by this main rule. So when a clue is given, ask yourself "Is this clue to save something"? If not, it is to get played.
Saving cards is important because there are only 2 cards of value 2, 3, and 4 in each suit, and only 1 card of value 5. To not get stuck on that colour it is urgent to keep the last copy of a card safe (prevent from discarding it).

The game interface puts every new card you draw, on the left-hand side of your hand. This means, the left-most card is the newest card, which makes your right-most card automatically the oldest. If a card has been in your hand for a long time, and you have not been given a clue that marks it, it is logical that it is a useless card and safe to discard.

Hence, '''Basic Rule #2''' (discarding).
'''Discard first what you know is useless (like a clued 1 when all 1s are already played). After that: discard your oldest (right-most) unclued card.'''

Note, that this rule is already a bit tricky. At the start of the game, every card can be considered equally old. This is where personal preference of players starts to matter.

Another result from the newest --> oldest order, is the interpretation of multiple marked cards. When you get a clue that marks multiple cards, and you can identify it is in fact a clue for play (see Basic Rule 1), you should play the newest (left-most) card. If an older card was "the playable card", it would probably be clued earlier. The logical conclusion must be, that the newest card, was the card you all have been waiting for, and you happened to draw it.

'''Basic Rule #3''' (playing).
'''Play the newer (left-most) clued card'''

So most people on BGA expect you to ONLY play the clued card on the left. The rest of the cards are just to be kept on your hand. Beware that there are different approaches and not all players play by this convention.

== Basic Example ==

Imagine the following starting situation:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: W1, Y1, B2, Y2, B2
Player 2: G1, G1, W3, Y2, B1
Player 3: B1, R4, W4, R3, G3

P1 can clue 1s to P2. But that will mark both G1's, so it's not the best option. Better is for P1 to clue P3 1s, or blue. (If BLUE-clue is given, then P3 will not worry about the B1 in P2's hand that is about to be discarded. Both 1-clue or BLUE-clue only mark 1 card, so give equal information about the other cards in P3's hand.)

P2 will clue 1s to P1. He knows that P3 prefers to play his 1. And P2 is the only person who can see that the 1s in both P1's hand, and P3's hand are different.

Everyone will have to wait for B2 to be discarded, before the second B2 can be clued. Everyone will also have to wait for G1 to be discarded, before the second G1 can be clued. Alternatively, when R1 is drawn and clued, then both G1's may be clued, since all 1's will be played and all cards marked 1 can be safely discarded.

So, the first four moves are:

1. P1 clues BLUE to P3 (7 clue-tokens).

2. P2 clues 1 to P1 (6 clue-tokens).

3. P3 plays B1 and draws R1.

4. P1 plays W1 and draws G4.

The game now looks like this, with P2 to move:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: G4, Y(1), B2, Y2, B2 Played: R0, Y0, G0, B1, W1
Player 2: G1, G1, W3, Y2, B1
Player 3: R1, R4, W4, R3, G3 Discarded: -

5. P2 clues RED to P3.

There are two possible continuations from here.
'''Option 1'''

6. P3 plays R1 and draws Y5.

7. P1 plays Y1 and draws Y3.

8. P2 discards B1 and draws G2 (7 clues).

9. P3 clues 1 to P2 (6 clues).

10. P1 discards B2 and draws R4 (7 clues).

11. P2 plays G1 and draws B5.

12. P3 clues 2 to P2 (6 clues).

And the game will look like this, with P1 to move:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: R4, Y3, G4, B(2), Y(2) Played: R1, Y1, G1, B1, W1
Player 2: B5, G2, G(1), W3, Y2
Player 3: Y5, (R)4, W4, (R)3, G3 Discarded: B1, B2

'''Option 2'''

6. P3 clues 1 to P2 (5 clues). This move delays him playing the R1, but will make P2 more confident in discarding since he knows all the useless 1s.

7. P1 plays Y1 and draws Y5.

8. P2 plays G1 and draws Y3.

9. P3 plays R1 and draws G2.

10. P1 discards B2 and draws R4 (6 clues).

11. P2 discards B1 and draws B5 (7 clues).

12. P3 clues 2 to P2 (6 clues).

And the game will look like this, with P1 to move:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: R4, Y5, G4, B(2), Y(2) Played: R1, Y1, G1, B1, W1
Player 2: B5, Y3, G(1), W3, Y2
Player 3: G2, (R)4, W4, (R)3, G3 Discarded: B2, B1

Both options are equally valid. They end up in the same situation, with only the cards in hands being in a different order. Since the cards are picked at random, there is no valid reason to say one option is better than the other.

In both options, the 2-clue is given to P1, to mark both 2s as playable. Since all 1s are played, all 2s will be playable.
Note that, in this game, two 1s where marked with one clue (and played); and two 2s were marked with one clue (and will be played). As stated in the beginning, there are a total of 21 clues (in this variant) to mark 25 cards. At this point in the game, there are 16 clues left to mark 18 cards. With only two more "efficient" clues, the game can end with a perfect score.

== Advanced Moves ==

=== Intentional Discard ===

Sometimes players can have hands where all cards are important and unplayable. To tell a player that his hand blocked, discard your '''CHOP''' card, even when you know you have a playable card. This is often done when you are low on (or out of) clue-tokens. This is a risky move, since your team mate(s) might expect you to play, instead of discard. ('''always try to give him a clue token to use or help him play his hand as fast as possible''')

=== Positional Discard ===

Sometimes at the end of the game you will have no useful cards to play. You want to give a clue, but you have no remaining clue-tokens. In this case, you can discard the card in the same position as the card that you want that player to play.

<code>
Example Positional Discard

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R5, Y5, G4, B5, W5
Player 2: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?3
Player 3: G5, B2, R4, B3, W1 Discarded: -
</code>
In this example, when there are no clue-tokens left, Player 2 can discard his DRAW, to indicate to Player 3 the position of the last remaining playable card.

=== Hint to Discard ===

You can hint to a player to discard specific cards in order to save multiple cards, to to save cards without causing a confusion about finesse/reverse.

<code>
Example Hint to Discard
In this example, all 1s have been played already. Both the Y3 and the G4 need to be saved.

Player 1: G1, R1, B4, Y3, G4
</code>
If Player 1 is given a 4-clue, the G4 will be saved, but the Y3 will be the new CHOP card. One option to save both Y3, and G4 is to give Player 1, a 1-clue. This would make the R1 the new CHOP card, and the G1 will be the next CHOP card.

=== Double Save ===

This is an alternative solution if you are low on clue-tokens, or don't have enough players to execute multiple saves in a row.

<code>
Example Double Save
In this example, W1 has not been played yet. Both the Y3 and the G4 need to be saved.

Player 1: G1, R1, B4, Y3, G4
</code>
This situation is similar as the Hint to Discard. However, in this situation a 1-clue will be interpreted as PLAY G1 (which isn't playable). To save both Y3 and G4, a blue-clue can be given to Player 1. This will cause him to BOMB on B4 (which isn't playable). But this tells him that all the cards RIGHT of the B4 needed to be saved. Note that this is a desperate measure, because it costs 2 clue-tokens (1 for the blue-clue and 1 for the BOMB card that should have been discarded) for 2 saves, but gives you no information about the saved cards.

----

'''2P GAMES'''<br>
With 2 players, you are limited in your options. Therefore the gameplay is different from 3+P games.

----

'''3+P GAMES'''<br>
=== Prompt ===
A prompt can clarify (an) already marked card(s) to be played as well as mark the next card to play.

<code>
Example Prompt

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y1, G0, B2, W0
Player 2: ??, ??, ??, ?2, ?5
Player 3: Y3, G5, R4, B3, W1 Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 give a yellow-clue to Player 3, marking Y3 as PLAY. Player 2 sees that the Y3 is ALMOST playable. This means that Player 2 has the LOGICAL in-between step: Player 2 has to play Y2. In this case, the Y2 is not on the DRAW card. The logical place for that card is the already marked 2. So Player 2 can assume that his card between the CHOP and the 5 is the Y2.

=== Finesse ===
This advanced move, can get you 2 cards into play, with only 1 clue-token. You do this, by marking an ALMOST playable card as playable. Someone else will have to play the LOGICAL in-between step, to make the card genuinely playable.

<code>
Example Finesse (#1)

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0
Player 2: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?5
Player 3: G5, B2, R4, B3, W1 Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 gives a blue-clue to Player 3, marking B2 as PLAY, and B3 as SAVE. Player 2 sees that the B2 is ALMOST playable. This means that Player 2 has the LOGICAL inbetween step: Player 2 has to play B1. The only logical place for that card is at the '''LEFT-MOST POSITION''' so Player 2 can assume that the '''DRAW''' card is the playable B1. If it was somewhere else in your hand, the card would have been clued earlier. '''Note: for the in-between player, a prompt always has priority over a finesse; if a player has a marked card that can be the in-between card, they should play it.'''

<code>
Example Finesse (#2)

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?? Played: R0, Y1, G2, B0, W1
Player 2: Y2, R1, R1, G5, W5
Player 3: XX, XX, R2, XX, XX Discarded: G4, R3
</code>

Player 1 gives a 5-clue to Player 2, saving W5 and G5 from being discarded. Player 2 sees nothing of interest in the hand of Player 3, so discards his CHOP (R1) and draws R4. Player 3 gives a setup for Player 1 by marking Y2 with a yellow-clue. The game now looks like this:
<code>
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?? Played: R0, Y1, G2, B0, W1
Player 2: R4,*Y2, R1, G5*,W5*
Player 3: XX, XX, R2, XX, XX Discarded: G4, R3, R1
</code>

Player 1 can't give a red-clue to Player 2, because this would cause Player 2 to bomb with r4. Instead, Player 1 now gives a red-clue to Player 3, marking R2 as PLAY. Player 2 sees that the R2 is ALMOST playable. This means that Player 2 has the LOGICAL inbetween step: Player 2 has to play R1. Player 2 knows that R1 can only be at the DRAW position, or at the middle position. Since Player 1 deliberately let Player 2 discard a playable 1 the round before, Player 2 concludes that she was already holding a second R1 at the time. Therefore, the LOGICAL place for the R1 to be, is at the middle position; NOT the DRAW position.

=== Bluff ===
This works the same as finesse. Only this time, the LOGICAL inbetween step, is a different playable card, so the player is tricked. It is slightly less strong that finesse, because it gives 1 play + 1 save for 1 clue-token.

<code>
Example Bluff

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0
Player 2: W1, B2, R4, B3, G5
Player 3: ??, ??, ??, ??, R? Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 gives a red-clue to Player 3, marking it as PLAY. Player 2 sees that the R2 is ALMOST playable, so applies finesse logic and plays his DRAW card. Much to Player 2's surprise, he has not played R1, but W1 (which was also playable). Because Player 3 saw Player 2 playing his DRAW, which was a different colour than the clue he received, Player 3 knows it was a bluffed finesse situation. He concludes that his red card is R2, and saves it for later.

=== Reverse ===
This works the same as finesse. Only this time, the LOGICAL inbetween step, is a different players hand. This also gets 2 plays for 1 clue-token, but takes longer than a normal finesse.

<code>
Example Reverse

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0
Player 2: ??, ??, W?, ??, ??
Player 3: W1, B2, R4, B3, G5 Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 gives a white-clue to Player 2, marking it as PLAY. However, Player 2 sees that the DRAW card of Player 3 is a playable card of the same colour. Therefore, Player 2 assumes that it is (reversed) finesse, and that his white is ALMOST playable. Player 2 decides to discard his CHOP. Player 3 recognises the (reversed) finesse play, and plays his DRAW card to play the W1.

''Having the optimal player draw the last card (endgame)''

At the end of the game, the person who draws the last card (which happens either by playing or discarding) triggers the end of the game. After the last card is drawn, each player receives exactly one more turn. Sometimes near the end of the game you will want a specific player to play or discard in order to get the last turn. Giving an unusable clue can prevent a player from drawing the last card and begin the last round.

<code>
Table:
<br />'''1 card remaining in deck - Your turn'''
<br />R Y G B W M
<br />5 5 3 4 5 5

XX|XX|5b - me

??|??|3? - you

1y|4g|5g - 3rd player
</code>

In this situation, assume everyone knows where the remaining playable cards are. Instead of discarding in this situation, you want the 3rd player be the one to play and draw the last card. Give any clue to prevent triggering the endgame so that 3rd player can play 4g triggering the endgame and then in their last turn play the 5g.

== Strategies for 2-Player games ==
'''Strategy #1'''

Pro's: Easy to execute<br>
Con's: Double discard possible for 4s. Easy to get the hands locked.<br>

''Guidelines''<br>
1. Number-clue means “save all the cards that were marked by this clue”. Try to give save-clues as late as possible.

2. Non-unique 2s and 3s must be saved as much as possible. (Try to avoid double saves if possible.) Uniques should always be saved.

3. Colour-clues mean “play the newest card that was marked by this clue”. Other cards that are marked by the clue may be discarded when not previously marked by a number-clue.

4. If more than 5 clue-tokens are available, discarding unknown cards should be avoided, but known useless cards may be discarded freely.

5. If there are less than 2 clue-tokens available, colour-clues may be given only
a. If it leads to two or more plays in a row.
b. If the playable card is on CHOP.

6. A colour-clue may re-mark a card that’s already marked by a number if:
a. It also marks a previously unmarked card that is playable. (Either immediately, or immediately after playing the card that was marked with a number.)
b. As a stall-clue (see 7).

7. When just 2 of the hand-slots are filled with non-saved cards, that player should try to avoid discarding two turns in a row (including the turn after the save-clue that leads to this state).

8. If a clue is given while avoiding discarding twice in a row: guideline 4 no longer applies; also stall clues may be given:
a. A colour-clue that re-marks a saved card, without marking an unmarked card. For example to indicate an accidental double save, or to clarify a playable card.
b. An empty-clue: a clue that marks none of the cards. This can be used to convey information on multiple playable cards.
c. A 5-clue. If 5a and 5b are not possible, a re-clue on the 5s is allowed.

9. Nearing the end of the game, when the number of saved cards in all the hands + the number of cards in the deck is equal to the number of card that need to be played to get the maximum (possible) score, discarding should be avoided as much as possible - so stall clues may be given, non-unique 4s may be saved, etc.

'''Strategy #2'''

Pro's: Guarantees a score of 28+<br>
Con's: Easy to get the hands locked.<br>

''Guidelines''<br>
The game is divided into three stages:
1. The early game: The first 3 or 4 moves of the game.
2. The mid game: Everything that's not early or late game.
3. The late game: The last moves, starting from the point where the number of "saved cards" + deck = maximum achievable score.

''Early game''<br>
In the early game, the goal is to 'sort' the hand cards into "old" cards and "new" cards. Since all cards are equally old in the beginning, it is unclear which cards are relevant, and which aren't. In order to do so, players follow these guidelines:

1. Players are not allowed to discard before 3 clue-tokens are spent.

2. After the early game, the right-most unclued cards will be considered "old" and therefore discardable. So the focus of the clues in the early game should be to save the valuable three right-most cards.

3. 1s should be marked with colour as much as possible.

4. A 1-clue should only be given when it marks three or more unique 1s.

5. 4-clues should only be given, when the 4 is blocking a colour-clue in the future. Cards marked with 4 in the early game should be discarded in the mid game.

''Mid game''<br>
In the mid game, the goal is to play as many playable cards as possible, and save as many useful cards as possible. In order to do so, players follow these guidelines:

1. Players will be as efficient as possible with clue-tokens. Re-marking cards (spending a clue-token that gives MORE information on a saved card) is highly discouraged.

2. All 2s, 3s and 5s must be saved, even when the 2s or 3s are not unique.

3a. Any clue means "play the newest, PREVIOUSLY UNMARKED, card". With the exception of a SAVE-clue, or a correction-clue.

3b. A card can be saved in four possible ways:
I. A number-clue that marks the CHOP card.
II. A colour-clue that marks a PLAY card, and in addition marks another card of the same colour. This other card is saved.
III. A SCREAM discard. When player 1 knows he can play a card, but still chooses to discard, it is called a SCREAM discard. This signals to player 2 that he CHOP card must be saved. It is recommended that player 2 spends the token, in case he has a long chain of cards that need saving.
IV. A deliberate misplay. When player 1 gives player 2 a PLAY-clue, that causes player 2 to BOMB, player 2 knows to SAVE all the cards OLDER than the card that was used to bomb.
3c. When a useless card is marked as SAVE, it is desired to give a correction-clue. This re-marks the card, indicating its uselessness. Preferably, this shouldn't mark any other cards. When it does, the clue is a PLAY-clue with the correction as an additional benefit.

4. Double discarding (discarding a card that could be the same card that was just discarded), is not allowed.

5. Play-clues shouldn't be given when there are 3 or less clue-tokens available, except when it leads to more than 1 PLAY.

6. When a player has only two unmarked cards in his hand (all other slots are filled with SAVES), then this player should keep discarding to a minimum.

7. When a player has only one unmarked card in his hand, then this player is forbidden to discard two turns in a row.

''End game''<br>
In the end game, the goal is to get the last remaining cards sorted in the correct hands, to maximise the score. This is achieved, by following these guidelines:

1. Discarding is highly discouraged. If there are enough clue-tokens, then stall-clues should be given.

2. Playable cards must be prioritised based on the number of plays it unlocks. This way the number of SAVED cards in hands is minimised.

3. It is recommended that both players keep at least one 5 in their hand. This way, in the last turn, both players can make a final move.