Board Game Arena - User contributions [en]

Tips pilipili

2026-01-27T10:18:22Z

Mealsy: Created page with " No Suits Cards run from 1-55 with 1 Joker in the deck"

No Suits

Cards run from 1-55 with 1 Joker in the deck

Gamehelphandandfoot

2025-04-07T06:46:13Z

Mealsy: /* Permission to go out */

'''Hand and Foot''' is a traditional card game for 2 or more players, acting either individually or in teams. It uses a large number of card decks (typically one or two more than the number of players), and is a rummy-style meld-building game based on Canasta.
[[Category:Card games]]
==Game duration and number of players==
A game is divided into ''rounds'', each consisting of the play of one deal of cards. Play can either be for a set number of rounds (typically 4), or until a team reaches a threshold score. The team with the highest score wins the game.

A typical four-round game with four players takes about two hours to complete.

==Round setup==
Players are seated so that partners are opposite each other at the table. If teams have more than two players, they are seated so team members are equidistant from each other.

The number of decks used is typically one or two more than the number of players, with the jokers included. For faster play, non-joker cards with proper card backs can also be mixed in; in BGA this is represented as allowing more than two joker per deck. The decks are all shuffled together, and each player is dealt two piles of cards. House rules differ on the number of cards: some dictate the piles are 11 cards, others say 13. One pile is not looked at, and is the ''foot''. The other is picked up by the player and is the ''hand''.

The undealt cards are stacked into a ''draw pile''.

==Game objective==

The objective of the game is to create ''melds'' consisting of 3-7 (or sometimes more, depending on house rules) cards of the same rank, possibly including ''wild cards''. Wild cards are deuces and jokers. Melds of seven cards (or more) are considered to be ''complete'', and may be referred to as ''books''; bonuses are awarded for these melds. Melds with less than 7 cards are considered ''open''. A book with no wild cards is considered ''clean'' or ''red'', and will score a higher bonus than a ''dirty'' or ''black'' book, which has at least one wild card. If the house rules allow or require, a meld of all wild cards may be formed, which will score an even higher bonus than clean books.

A team must reach a predetermined ''contract'' before a round can be ended. The contract is typically for a set number of clean, dirty, and wild books, and is the same for each team and each round of play. A common contract for teams of two is two each clean and dirty books.

==Scoring and card valuation==
Cards are valued by their rank:
*Jokers are worth 50 points
*Aces and deuces are worth 20 points
*8 through King are worth 10 points
*4 through 7 are worth 5 points
The values of 3s depend on house rules. In common variants, red 3s are worth 300 points against your team. Black 3s are typically worth 100 against your team and cannot be melded at all, or taken from the top of the discard pile (but see [[#Taking the discard|Taking the discard]] below).

Cards played on the board are scored for the team, while those left in the hand (and foot) are scored against the team.

===Going out and meld completion bonuses===
The team that goes out to end a round of play is awarded 1000 points for doing so. If the draw pile is exhausted, the round ends and no team gets this bonus.

Meld bonuses are awarded when a meld reaches seven cards in length, and is denoted in the BGA version of the game by displaying the meld sideways. The most common meld completion bonuses are:
* Clean books score 500
* Dirty books score 300
* Wild books score 2500
* 7’s (no wild) score 1500
==Order of play==
* High card begins the play, and continues to the left of the beginning player. Each draw is 2 cards.
* Play and Discard
* Either draw two cards, or take the discard (you cannot take the discard which consists of the top 3 cards if your team has not melded your initial meld (1st round-50pts) (2nd round (90 points) (3rd Round 120 points) ( 4th round 150 points)
* Optionally create new melds for the team, or play cards to existing team melds, assuming ''opening criteria'' are met
* If still holding cards, discard one to end play.

If the player runs out of cards without discarding, they can pick their foot and immediately continue playing from it; this is called ''running to the foot''. If the player discards their last card, they can pick up their foot, but not play from it until their next turn; this is called ''walking''.

The round ends when a team has completed the required contract, and one of its players plays out both their hand and their foot.

A team must meet certain criteria in order to open play on their board. The requirement is that the opening player must put down cards with a minimum card point value, and typically varies by either which round of play (increasing with each successive round), or by the team's score. The most common opening criteria are:
* Round 1: 50 points to open
* Round 2: 90 points to open
* Round 3: 120 points to open
* Round 4: 150 points to open
If a tie-breaking fifth round is needed, it will also require 150 points to open. The point score does not include meld completion bonuses, or any played red 3s. For example, a completed book of 5s scores 35 points, with a bonus of 500 points for being complete, but is insufficient to open even round 1.

===Playing red 3s===
Discard ONLY variant. Red 3’s count against your team if you are caught with them in your hand or foot 300 pts each. Black 3’s count 100 each if you are caught with them in your hand or foot.

===Drawing cards===
Draw 2 cards. After play discard 1 card.

===Taking the discard===
If the player is allowed by the house rules, they may pick up the top discard. Common house rules require the player to (1) have two cards of the same rank in their hand, and (2) be able to immediately play all three cards to the board. Among other things, this means that their team either (a) has already opened its board, or (b) the player taking the discard can meet the opening criteria for the round. It also means that the top card is not a black 3, or any other card where it is forbidden by house rules to take it. (Some house variants forbid the taking of wild cards, and house rules requiring red 3s to be discarded also typically forbid their taking.)

Once the player has taken and played the discard and associated meld cards, most rules require the taking of additional cards from the discard pile. This is generally six cards, or the entire pile if it is less, but there are house rules that require the pile to have at least six more cards in it, or that require the taking of the entire discard pile in the manner of traditional Canasta rules. A discard pile rich in black 3s can discourage the taking of discards.

===Playing cards===
Playing cards to the board consists of selecting a group of matching cards (all of the same rank with optional wild cards), and clicking on either the "New Meld" panel or the meld of the given rank on the team's meld board. If melds are limited in size, you will not be allowed to make a meld have more than seven cards.

You can have only one meld of a given rank open at any time. In order to create a meld, you must have at least three cards to play to it. You must always have more non-wild than wild cards in a meld, and common house rules limit the number of wild cards in a completed meld to either 2 or 3. The BGA version of the game enforces this by a "ratio rule", requiring a certain percentage of the cards in a meld at any given time to be non-wild.

The card plays you make (other than the required play of red 3s) are not shown to other players until one of several actions take place. These actions include:
*Discarding to end your turn
*Playing out, either to end the round or to run to your foot
*Taking extra discards

It is possible to ''undo'' moves up the last instance of one of these in your turn. This may become necessary for three reasons. First, if you attempt to open, but do not have sufficient points to make the opening criteria, you must undo your moves and make a discard instead. Second, you cannot play the last card from your foot unless your team has made the contracted melds. (2 REDS and 2 BLACKS) The game will not allow you to play out, so you must undo your moves. Third, if the game rules are that you must be able to play all your cards in your Foot without a discard TO GO OUT.

===Discarding===
To discard, select a single card, and place it on the discard pile. If it is the last card of your foot, you will not be allowed to discard it if your team does not have the contracted melds. In that case, you will have to undo your moves, and play so as to have at least one card remaining in your hand after discarding.

=== Permission to go out ===
If a player sees that they are able to go out, after drawing, the player may ask "Partner,may I go out?" The partner must answer "Yes" or "No," and the answer is binding.

==Round and game summaries==
At the end of each round, a scoring summary is displayed, showing how each team made its points in the round. At the end of the game, the report includes all of the game rounds.

Gamehelphandandfoot

2025-04-07T06:44:35Z

Mealsy: /* Playing red 3s */

'''Hand and Foot''' is a traditional card game for 2 or more players, acting either individually or in teams. It uses a large number of card decks (typically one or two more than the number of players), and is a rummy-style meld-building game based on Canasta.
[[Category:Card games]]
==Game duration and number of players==
A game is divided into ''rounds'', each consisting of the play of one deal of cards. Play can either be for a set number of rounds (typically 4), or until a team reaches a threshold score. The team with the highest score wins the game.

A typical four-round game with four players takes about two hours to complete.

==Round setup==
Players are seated so that partners are opposite each other at the table. If teams have more than two players, they are seated so team members are equidistant from each other.

The number of decks used is typically one or two more than the number of players, with the jokers included. For faster play, non-joker cards with proper card backs can also be mixed in; in BGA this is represented as allowing more than two joker per deck. The decks are all shuffled together, and each player is dealt two piles of cards. House rules differ on the number of cards: some dictate the piles are 11 cards, others say 13. One pile is not looked at, and is the ''foot''. The other is picked up by the player and is the ''hand''.

The undealt cards are stacked into a ''draw pile''.

==Game objective==

The objective of the game is to create ''melds'' consisting of 3-7 (or sometimes more, depending on house rules) cards of the same rank, possibly including ''wild cards''. Wild cards are deuces and jokers. Melds of seven cards (or more) are considered to be ''complete'', and may be referred to as ''books''; bonuses are awarded for these melds. Melds with less than 7 cards are considered ''open''. A book with no wild cards is considered ''clean'' or ''red'', and will score a higher bonus than a ''dirty'' or ''black'' book, which has at least one wild card. If the house rules allow or require, a meld of all wild cards may be formed, which will score an even higher bonus than clean books.

A team must reach a predetermined ''contract'' before a round can be ended. The contract is typically for a set number of clean, dirty, and wild books, and is the same for each team and each round of play. A common contract for teams of two is two each clean and dirty books.

==Scoring and card valuation==
Cards are valued by their rank:
*Jokers are worth 50 points
*Aces and deuces are worth 20 points
*8 through King are worth 10 points
*4 through 7 are worth 5 points
The values of 3s depend on house rules. In common variants, red 3s are worth 300 points against your team. Black 3s are typically worth 100 against your team and cannot be melded at all, or taken from the top of the discard pile (but see [[#Taking the discard|Taking the discard]] below).

Cards played on the board are scored for the team, while those left in the hand (and foot) are scored against the team.

===Going out and meld completion bonuses===
The team that goes out to end a round of play is awarded 1000 points for doing so. If the draw pile is exhausted, the round ends and no team gets this bonus.

Meld bonuses are awarded when a meld reaches seven cards in length, and is denoted in the BGA version of the game by displaying the meld sideways. The most common meld completion bonuses are:
* Clean books score 500
* Dirty books score 300
* Wild books score 2500
* 7’s (no wild) score 1500
==Order of play==
* High card begins the play, and continues to the left of the beginning player. Each draw is 2 cards.
* Play and Discard
* Either draw two cards, or take the discard (you cannot take the discard which consists of the top 3 cards if your team has not melded your initial meld (1st round-50pts) (2nd round (90 points) (3rd Round 120 points) ( 4th round 150 points)
* Optionally create new melds for the team, or play cards to existing team melds, assuming ''opening criteria'' are met
* If still holding cards, discard one to end play.

If the player runs out of cards without discarding, they can pick their foot and immediately continue playing from it; this is called ''running to the foot''. If the player discards their last card, they can pick up their foot, but not play from it until their next turn; this is called ''walking''.

The round ends when a team has completed the required contract, and one of its players plays out both their hand and their foot.

A team must meet certain criteria in order to open play on their board. The requirement is that the opening player must put down cards with a minimum card point value, and typically varies by either which round of play (increasing with each successive round), or by the team's score. The most common opening criteria are:
* Round 1: 50 points to open
* Round 2: 90 points to open
* Round 3: 120 points to open
* Round 4: 150 points to open
If a tie-breaking fifth round is needed, it will also require 150 points to open. The point score does not include meld completion bonuses, or any played red 3s. For example, a completed book of 5s scores 35 points, with a bonus of 500 points for being complete, but is insufficient to open even round 1.

===Playing red 3s===
Discard ONLY variant. Red 3’s count against your team if you are caught with them in your hand or foot 300 pts each. Black 3’s count 100 each if you are caught with them in your hand or foot.

===Drawing cards===
Draw 2 cards. After play discard 1 card.

===Taking the discard===
If the player is allowed by the house rules, they may pick up the top discard. Common house rules require the player to (1) have two cards of the same rank in their hand, and (2) be able to immediately play all three cards to the board. Among other things, this means that their team either (a) has already opened its board, or (b) the player taking the discard can meet the opening criteria for the round. It also means that the top card is not a black 3, or any other card where it is forbidden by house rules to take it. (Some house variants forbid the taking of wild cards, and house rules requiring red 3s to be discarded also typically forbid their taking.)

Once the player has taken and played the discard and associated meld cards, most rules require the taking of additional cards from the discard pile. This is generally six cards, or the entire pile if it is less, but there are house rules that require the pile to have at least six more cards in it, or that require the taking of the entire discard pile in the manner of traditional Canasta rules. A discard pile rich in black 3s can discourage the taking of discards.

===Playing cards===
Playing cards to the board consists of selecting a group of matching cards (all of the same rank with optional wild cards), and clicking on either the "New Meld" panel or the meld of the given rank on the team's meld board. If melds are limited in size, you will not be allowed to make a meld have more than seven cards.

You can have only one meld of a given rank open at any time. In order to create a meld, you must have at least three cards to play to it. You must always have more non-wild than wild cards in a meld, and common house rules limit the number of wild cards in a completed meld to either 2 or 3. The BGA version of the game enforces this by a "ratio rule", requiring a certain percentage of the cards in a meld at any given time to be non-wild.

The card plays you make (other than the required play of red 3s) are not shown to other players until one of several actions take place. These actions include:
*Discarding to end your turn
*Playing out, either to end the round or to run to your foot
*Taking extra discards

It is possible to ''undo'' moves up the last instance of one of these in your turn. This may become necessary for three reasons. First, if you attempt to open, but do not have sufficient points to make the opening criteria, you must undo your moves and make a discard instead. Second, you cannot play the last card from your foot unless your team has made the contracted melds. (2 REDS and 2 BLACKS) The game will not allow you to play out, so you must undo your moves. Third, if the game rules are that you must be able to play all your cards in your Foot without a discard TO GO OUT.

===Discarding===
To discard, select a single card, and place it on the discard pile. If it is the last card of your foot, you will not be allowed to discard it if your team does not have the contracted melds. In that case, you will have to undo your moves, and play so as to have at least one card remaining in your hand after discarding.

=== Permission to go out ===
If a player sees that they are able to go out, after drawing, the player may say "Partner,are you clean?" The partner must answer "Yes" or "No," and the answer is binding.

==Round and game summaries==
At the end of each round, a scoring summary is displayed, showing how each team made its points in the round. At the end of the game, the report includes all of the game rounds.

Gamehelphandandfoot

2025-04-07T06:43:02Z

Mealsy: /* Order of play */

'''Hand and Foot''' is a traditional card game for 2 or more players, acting either individually or in teams. It uses a large number of card decks (typically one or two more than the number of players), and is a rummy-style meld-building game based on Canasta.
[[Category:Card games]]
==Game duration and number of players==
A game is divided into ''rounds'', each consisting of the play of one deal of cards. Play can either be for a set number of rounds (typically 4), or until a team reaches a threshold score. The team with the highest score wins the game.

A typical four-round game with four players takes about two hours to complete.

==Round setup==
Players are seated so that partners are opposite each other at the table. If teams have more than two players, they are seated so team members are equidistant from each other.

The number of decks used is typically one or two more than the number of players, with the jokers included. For faster play, non-joker cards with proper card backs can also be mixed in; in BGA this is represented as allowing more than two joker per deck. The decks are all shuffled together, and each player is dealt two piles of cards. House rules differ on the number of cards: some dictate the piles are 11 cards, others say 13. One pile is not looked at, and is the ''foot''. The other is picked up by the player and is the ''hand''.

The undealt cards are stacked into a ''draw pile''.

==Game objective==

The objective of the game is to create ''melds'' consisting of 3-7 (or sometimes more, depending on house rules) cards of the same rank, possibly including ''wild cards''. Wild cards are deuces and jokers. Melds of seven cards (or more) are considered to be ''complete'', and may be referred to as ''books''; bonuses are awarded for these melds. Melds with less than 7 cards are considered ''open''. A book with no wild cards is considered ''clean'' or ''red'', and will score a higher bonus than a ''dirty'' or ''black'' book, which has at least one wild card. If the house rules allow or require, a meld of all wild cards may be formed, which will score an even higher bonus than clean books.

A team must reach a predetermined ''contract'' before a round can be ended. The contract is typically for a set number of clean, dirty, and wild books, and is the same for each team and each round of play. A common contract for teams of two is two each clean and dirty books.

==Scoring and card valuation==
Cards are valued by their rank:
*Jokers are worth 50 points
*Aces and deuces are worth 20 points
*8 through King are worth 10 points
*4 through 7 are worth 5 points
The values of 3s depend on house rules. In common variants, red 3s are worth 300 points against your team. Black 3s are typically worth 100 against your team and cannot be melded at all, or taken from the top of the discard pile (but see [[#Taking the discard|Taking the discard]] below).

Cards played on the board are scored for the team, while those left in the hand (and foot) are scored against the team.

===Going out and meld completion bonuses===
The team that goes out to end a round of play is awarded 1000 points for doing so. If the draw pile is exhausted, the round ends and no team gets this bonus.

Meld bonuses are awarded when a meld reaches seven cards in length, and is denoted in the BGA version of the game by displaying the meld sideways. The most common meld completion bonuses are:
* Clean books score 500
* Dirty books score 300
* Wild books score 2500
* 7’s (no wild) score 1500
==Order of play==
* High card begins the play, and continues to the left of the beginning player. Each draw is 2 cards.
* Play and Discard
* Either draw two cards, or take the discard (you cannot take the discard which consists of the top 3 cards if your team has not melded your initial meld (1st round-50pts) (2nd round (90 points) (3rd Round 120 points) ( 4th round 150 points)
* Optionally create new melds for the team, or play cards to existing team melds, assuming ''opening criteria'' are met
* If still holding cards, discard one to end play.

If the player runs out of cards without discarding, they can pick their foot and immediately continue playing from it; this is called ''running to the foot''. If the player discards their last card, they can pick up their foot, but not play from it until their next turn; this is called ''walking''.

The round ends when a team has completed the required contract, and one of its players plays out both their hand and their foot.

A team must meet certain criteria in order to open play on their board. The requirement is that the opening player must put down cards with a minimum card point value, and typically varies by either which round of play (increasing with each successive round), or by the team's score. The most common opening criteria are:
* Round 1: 50 points to open
* Round 2: 90 points to open
* Round 3: 120 points to open
* Round 4: 150 points to open
If a tie-breaking fifth round is needed, it will also require 150 points to open. The point score does not include meld completion bonuses, or any played red 3s. For example, a completed book of 5s scores 35 points, with a bonus of 500 points for being complete, but is insufficient to open even round 1.

===Playing red 3s===
Discard ONLY. Red 3’s count against your team if you are caught with them in your hand or foot 300 pts each. Black 3’s count 100 each if you are caught with them in your hand or foot.

===Drawing cards===
Draw 2 cards. After play discard 1 card.

===Taking the discard===
If the player is allowed by the house rules, they may pick up the top discard. Common house rules require the player to (1) have two cards of the same rank in their hand, and (2) be able to immediately play all three cards to the board. Among other things, this means that their team either (a) has already opened its board, or (b) the player taking the discard can meet the opening criteria for the round. It also means that the top card is not a black 3, or any other card where it is forbidden by house rules to take it. (Some house variants forbid the taking of wild cards, and house rules requiring red 3s to be discarded also typically forbid their taking.)

Once the player has taken and played the discard and associated meld cards, most rules require the taking of additional cards from the discard pile. This is generally six cards, or the entire pile if it is less, but there are house rules that require the pile to have at least six more cards in it, or that require the taking of the entire discard pile in the manner of traditional Canasta rules. A discard pile rich in black 3s can discourage the taking of discards.

===Playing cards===
Playing cards to the board consists of selecting a group of matching cards (all of the same rank with optional wild cards), and clicking on either the "New Meld" panel or the meld of the given rank on the team's meld board. If melds are limited in size, you will not be allowed to make a meld have more than seven cards.

You can have only one meld of a given rank open at any time. In order to create a meld, you must have at least three cards to play to it. You must always have more non-wild than wild cards in a meld, and common house rules limit the number of wild cards in a completed meld to either 2 or 3. The BGA version of the game enforces this by a "ratio rule", requiring a certain percentage of the cards in a meld at any given time to be non-wild.

The card plays you make (other than the required play of red 3s) are not shown to other players until one of several actions take place. These actions include:
*Discarding to end your turn
*Playing out, either to end the round or to run to your foot
*Taking extra discards

It is possible to ''undo'' moves up the last instance of one of these in your turn. This may become necessary for three reasons. First, if you attempt to open, but do not have sufficient points to make the opening criteria, you must undo your moves and make a discard instead. Second, you cannot play the last card from your foot unless your team has made the contracted melds. (2 REDS and 2 BLACKS) The game will not allow you to play out, so you must undo your moves. Third, if the game rules are that you must be able to play all your cards in your Foot without a discard TO GO OUT.

===Discarding===
To discard, select a single card, and place it on the discard pile. If it is the last card of your foot, you will not be allowed to discard it if your team does not have the contracted melds. In that case, you will have to undo your moves, and play so as to have at least one card remaining in your hand after discarding.

=== Permission to go out ===
If a player sees that they are able to go out, after drawing, the player may say "Partner,are you clean?" The partner must answer "Yes" or "No," and the answer is binding.

==Round and game summaries==
At the end of each round, a scoring summary is displayed, showing how each team made its points in the round. At the end of the game, the report includes all of the game rounds.

Tips handandfoot

2023-11-10T07:40:14Z

Mealsy: Simplified

Please note that these are general rules; they might not be advisable depending on the rules used, game progression, and the expertise of the players.

'''FAIR PLAY'''

It is accepted and in the official rules that you may ask your partner if you may go out. Yes or no are the acceptable responses.

Table Talk is communication that influences your partner's play. This is considered cheating. Please don't table talk.

In games that allow an early end it is polite to attempt to get a consensus with your partner. Games are rarely impossible to win.

'''TIPS'''

At the start of any game make sure you know what rules are in play and what is required for contract, as well as how many rounds there are.

How you open and play is somewhat determined by if you are playing with open or closed melds (7 cards max) and whether the wild meld is required/optional or not allowed.

When playing in teams remember that you should be working together to help each other get to foot, get contract and go out, hopefully ahead of your opponents.

With that in mind, think about what you are playing and when. One example is, if you are the only player in foot, closing melds may not be the wisest choice....

In a closed meld game (7 cards max) melds with 5+ cards are blocked meaning that you or your opponent can't pick up the discard with a pair of that value. However, depending on the rule set, this may need to be balanced against where wild cards can be played.

Picking up the discard pile can be very helpful to open new melds, however if it is full of black threes it can also stop you from getting to foot or going out. It is wise to pay attention to what you are picking up.

Hand and Foot is a game of both strategy and luck, the best players adapt to the cards and their situation in the game. Be flexible.

Tips handandfoot

2022-12-04T13:27:11Z

Mealsy: tried to make easier to read

Please note that these are general rules; they might not be advisable depending on the rules used, game progression, and the expertise of the players.

=== TLDR - Arena tips ===

Read the tips! Especially from Hand Management onwards!

=== Game mechanics ===

In one turn, you draw two cards and discard one card. You can reduce your hand size by one if you are able to play both of the cards you draw (cards already in hand + 2 drawn cards - 2 played cards - 1 discard = cards already in hand - 1). So to reduce your hand size, and ultimately reduce it to zero, you need to be able to play as many of the cards you draw as possible. To be able to play the cards you draw, you need to have melds (also known as piles) to which cards can be added.

Rummy games are very customizable, and Hand and Foot is no exception. Be sure to check the rules of the table before joining it, because you don't want to find out midway through a game that the rules don't allow a move you've been building up towards.

=== Melding ===

Try to keep meld clean at the beginning, and then dirty up your melds later.

Don't be in a rush to open by opening a bunch of dirty melds. The dirtier you open the less wilds you have for a wild meld. Wilds can be so hard to get sometimes so best not to waste them.

When playing in pairs, open as soon as you can each round. However, do not rush to open dirty, unless you are behind and opponents are already open.

The most points wins the game, so it's best to have as many clean melds as possible. The best way to catch up when behind is to have melds that are worth the most. Concentrate on wilds, then clean, then dirty. A bunch of dirty melds means you lose 200 points each meld.

If you can, only open dirty melds in the following cases: running or walking to your foot; once in foot and wilds closed; when opening; also when opening a wild meld but needing the points to open; in the final round when well ahead to open the round; or in the final round if both opponents have gone to foot.

=== Hand Management ===

Watch the discards of the person after you. On future turns, you should usually discard a card that this person has already discarded.

Usually, you should discard cards that the opponent has already melded especially the melds with 5 or more cards in them.

Hold onto a couple of wilds in your hand to help you get to your foot (this is after a wild meld has already been started). They go great with pairs to help you walk/run to your foot. If you get the third card for those pairs and can get to your foot, add the wilds to the wild meld.

Picking up the discard pile is usually advisable early in the round. In addition to allowing you to set down a new meld, the cards picked up from the discard pile serve as cushions that help you build up as many melds as possible. That is, cards picked up from the discard pile can be discarded instead of a card from a pair that you've been hoping to turn into a meld.

By picking up the discard, however, you might pick up junk cards (like the 3 of spades) that will set you back on your quest to get to your foot or go out. Attended by great benefits as well as disadvantages, whether to pick up a discard is arguably the most difficult and consequential decision in Hand and Foot.

If you hold onto a pair of a meld already open, you can use them to pick up the discard pile. The discard pile can help you with completing pairs or adding cards to your singles.

If you are in your hand and your partner is in their foot, DO NOT OPEN DIRTY MELDS unless you are going to your foot in that move.

=== Foot Management ===

If you're the first partner to get to your foot and the other team isn't close to going out, don't close any melds ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven'''). The more that is closed the harder it will be for your partner to get to their foot.

If you get into your foot before your partner, and the other team isn't close to going out, don't play any cards except wilds on the wild meld and new melds (no more than 3 cards). This is to leave lots of room for your partner to get to their foot. If you top up melds to 5 or 6 cards, your partner may have 2 in hand (holding to pick up discard) or they keep picking up that number. Best to leave room for your partner to add cards.

If your partner is able to walk to their foot after you have been waiting for them in yours, and you can wait, wait one more turn for them to play their foot. You could have already been adjusting your cards to be set up and giving them the chance to play a new set of cards can be very valuable.

=== Endgame Situation ===

Complete your contract before opening a second wild meld. However, there are some situations where it's best to open second wild before completing contract. This can be to gain points due to being behind, you have lots of wilds in your hand and you don't want to dirty a bunch of stuff to get to your foot, etc.

When almost ready to go out but your team needs 1 or 2 dirty piles, don't close all the melds with 6 cards clean until you have your 2 dirties to go out. Too many times teams need just the dirty piles to go out but there aren't any melds ready to close with just a wild. Not having melds ready to close dirty gives the other team time to catch up in points.

Pay attention to how close the other team is ready to go out. ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven''') If they don't have wilds started, then you have time to help your partner get to their foot so don't close anything. However, if the other team has or is really close to having their contract, then it's time to close things so you don't lose the points. *** HOWEVER, if you're in the last round and closing stuff doesn't get you ahead in points (or even close), then there's no point in closing melds. This will make it hard for your partner to get to their foot, and there's no point as you aren't going to win without them.

=== Fair Play ===

It's in the official rules to ask your partner if you can go out, though multiple players have been reported for this. The only answer your partner should give is a yes or no. However, asking permission to go out is not a built in mechanic of the game and so it is not required. As the developer has said, it is something to be agreed upon before the game, and is not enforceable.

Table Talk is communication that influences your partner's play. This is considered cheating. Please be mindful of what you say.

Consider not giving up: the game could be close enough to still win.

Tips handandfoot

2022-10-16T14:05:33Z

Mealsy:

Please note that these are general rules; they might not be advisable depending on the rules used, game progression, and the expertise of the players.

=== TLDR - Arena tips ===

Read the tips! Especially from Foot Management onwards!

=== Game mechanics ===

In one turn, you draw two cards and discard one card. You can reduce your hand size by one if you are able to play both of the cards you draw (cards already in hand + 2 drawn cards - 2 played cards - 1 discard = cards already in hand - 1). So to reduce your hand size, and ultimately reduce it to zero, you need to be able to play as many of the cards you draw as possible. To be able to play the cards you draw, you need to have melds to which cards can be added.

Rummy games are very customizable, and Hand and Foot is no exception. Be sure to check the rules of the table before joining it, because you don't want to find out midway through a game that the rules don't allow a move you've been building up towards.

=== Melding ===

Try to keep meld clean at the beginning, and then dirty up your melds later.

Don't be in a rush to open by opening a bunch of dirty melds. The dirtier you open the less wilds you have for a wild meld. Wilds can be so hard to get sometimes so best not to waste them.

When playing in pairs, open as soon as you can each round.

The most points wins the game, so it's best to have as many clean melds as possible. The best way to catch up when behind is to have piles that are worth the most. Concentrate on wilds, then clean, then dirty. A bunch of dirty piles means you lose 200 points each pile.

=== Hand Management ===

Watch the discards of the person after you. On future turns, you should usually discard a card that this person has already discarded.

Usually, you should discard cards that the opponent has already melded.

Hold onto a couple of wilds in your hand to help you get to your foot (this is after a wild meld has already been started). They go great with pairs to help you walk/run to your foot. If you get the third card for those pairs and can get to your foot, add the wilds to the wild meld.

Picking up the discard pile is usually advisable early in the round. In addition to allowing you to set down a new meld, the cards picked up from the discard pile serve as cushions that help you build up as many melds as possible. That is, cards picked up from the discard pile can be discarded instead of a card from a pair that you've been hoping to turn into a meld.

By picking up the discard, however, you might pick up junk cards (like the 3 of spades) that will set you back on your quest to get to your foot or go out. Attended by great benefits as well as disadvantages, whether to pick up a discard is arguably the most difficult and consequential decision in Hand and Foot.

If you hold onto a pair of a meld already open, you can use them to pick up the discard pile. The discard pile can help you with completing pairs or adding cards to your singles.

=== Foot Management ===

If you're the first partner to get to your foot and the other team isn't close to going out, don't close any melds ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven'''). The more that is closed the harder it will be for your partner to get to their foot.

If you get into your foot before your partner, and the other team isn't close to going out, don't play any cards except wilds on the wild meld and new melds (no more than 3 cards). This is to leave lots of room for your partner to get to their foot. If you top up melds to 5 or 6 cards, your partner may have 2 in hand (holding to pick up discard) or they keep picking up that number. Best to leave room for your partner to add cards.

If your partner is able to walk to their foot after you have been waiting for them in yours, and you can wait, wait one more turn for them to play their foot. You could have already been adjusting your cards to be set up and giving them the chance to play a new set of cards can be very valuable.

=== Endgame Situation ===

Complete your contract before opening a second wild meld. However, there are some situations where it's best to open second wild before completing contact. This can be to gain points due to being behind, you have lots of wilds in your hand and you don't want to dirty a bunch of stuff to get to your foot, etc.

When almost ready to go out but your team needs 1 or 2 dirty piles, don't close all the melds with 6 cards clean until you have your 2 dirties to go out. Too many times teams need just the dirty piles to go out but there isn't any melds ready to close with just a wild. Not having melds ready to close dirty gives the other team time to catch up in points.

Pay attention to how close the other team is ready to go out. ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven''') If they don't have wilds started, then you have time to help your partner get to their foot so don't close anything. However, if the other team has or really close to having their contract, then it's time to close things so you don't lose the points. *** HOWEVER, if you're in the last round and closing stuff doesn't get you ahead in points (or even close), then there's no point in closing melds. This will make it hard for your partner to get to their foot and there's no point as you aren't going to win without them.

=== Fair Play ===

It's OK and in the official rules to ask your partner if you can go out. The only answer your partner should give is a yes or no. However, asking permission to go out is not a built in mechanic of the game and so it is not required.

Table Talk is communication that influences your partner's play, this is considered cheating, please be mindful of what you say.

Consider not giving up, the game could be close enough to still win.

Tips handandfoot

2022-10-16T14:03:31Z

Mealsy: Amended TLDR and added some punctuation

Please note that these are general rules; they might not be advisable depending on the rules used, game progression, and the expertise of the players.
=== TLDR - Arena tips ===

Read the tips! Especially from Foot Management onwards!

=== Game mechanics ===

In one turn, you draw two cards and discard one card. You can reduce your hand size by one if you are able to play both of the cards you draw (cards already in hand + 2 drawn cards - 2 played cards - 1 discard = cards already in hand - 1). So to reduce your hand size, and ultimately reduce it to zero, you need to be able to play as many of the cards you draw as possible. To be able to play the cards you draw, you need to have melds to which cards can be added.

Rummy games are very customizable, and Hand and Foot is no exception. Be sure to check the rules of the table before joining it, because you don't want to find out midway through a game that the rules don't allow a move you've been building up towards.

=== Melding ===

Try to keep meld clean at the beginning, and then dirty up your melds later.

Don't be in a rush to open by opening a bunch of dirty melds. The dirtier you open the less wilds you have for a wild meld. Wilds can be so hard to get sometimes so best not to waste them.

When playing in pairs, open as soon as you can each round.

The most points wins the game, so it's best to have as many clean melds as possible. The best way to catch up when behind is to have piles that are worth the most. Concentrate on wilds, then clean, then dirty. A bunch of dirty piles means you lose 200 points each pile.

=== Hand Management ===

Watch the discards of the person after you. On future turns, you should usually discard a card that this person has already discarded.

Usually, you should discard cards that the opponent has already melded.

Hold onto a couple of wilds in your hand to help you get to your foot (this is after a wild meld has already been started). They go great with pairs to help you walk/run to your foot. If you get the third card for those pairs and can get to your foot, add the wilds to the wild meld.

Picking up the discard pile is usually advisable early in the round. In addition to allowing you to set down a new meld, the cards picked up from the discard pile serve as cushions that help you build up as many melds as possible. That is, cards picked up from the discard pile can be discarded instead of a card from a pair that you've been hoping to turn into a meld.

By picking up the discard, however, you might pick up junk cards (like the 3 of spades) that will set you back on your quest to get to your foot or go out. Attended by great benefits as well as disadvantages, whether to pick up a discard is arguably the most difficult and consequential decision in Hand and Foot.

If you hold onto a pair of a meld already open, you can use them to pick up the discard pile. The discard pile can help you with completing pairs or adding cards to your singles.

=== Foot Management ===

If you're the first partner to get to your foot and the other team isn't close to going out, don't close any melds ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven'''). The more that is closed the harder it will be for your partner to get to their foot.

If you get into your foot before your partner, and the other team isn't close to going out, don't play any cards except wilds on the wild meld and new melds (no more than 3 cards). This is to leave lots of room for your partner to get to their foot. If you top up melds to 5 or 6 cards, your partner may have 2 in hand (holding to pick up discard) or they keep picking up that number. Best to leave room for your partner to add cards.

If your partner is able to walk to their foot after you have been waiting for them in yours, and you can wait, wait one more turn for them to play their foot. You could have already been adjusting your cards to be set up and giving them the chance to play a new set of cards can be very valuable.

=== Endgame Situation ===

Complete your contract before opening a second wild meld. However, there are some situations where it's best to open second wild before completing contact. This can be to gain points due to being behind, you have lots of wilds in your hand and you don't want to dirty a bunch of stuff to get to your foot, etc.

When almost ready to go out but your team needs 1 or 2 dirty piles, don't close all the melds with 6 cards clean until you have your 2 dirties to go out. Too many times teams need just the dirty piles to go out but there isn't any melds ready to close with just a wild. Not having melds ready to close dirty gives the other team time to catch up in points.

Pay attention to how close the other team is ready to go out. ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven''') If they don't have wilds started, then you have time to help your partner get to their foot so don't close anything. However, if the other team has or really close to having their contract, then it's time to close things so you don't lose the points. *** HOWEVER, if you're in the last round and closing stuff doesn't get you ahead in points (or even close), then there's no point in closing melds. This will make it hard for your partner to get to their foot and there's no point as you aren't going to win without them.

=== Fair Play ===

It's OK and in the official rules to ask your partner if you can go out. The only answer your partner should give is a yes or no. However, asking permission to go out is not a built in mechanic of the game and so it is not required.

Table Talk is communication that influences your partner's play, this is considered cheating, please be mindful of what you say.

Consider not giving up, the game could be close enough to still win.

Tips handandfoot

2022-10-09T13:22:12Z

Mealsy:

Please note that these are general rules; they might not be advisable depending on the rules used, game progression, and the expertise of the players.
=== TLDR - Arena tips ===

When to play cards- to open, to make new melds, to get to foot, to make contract/open and close melds, to go out.

=== Game mechanics ===

In one turn, you draw two cards and discard one card. You can reduce your hand size by one if you are able to play both of the cards you draw (cards already in hand + 2 drawn cards - 2 played cards - 1 discard = cards already in hand - 1). So to reduce your hand size, and ultimately reduce it to zero, you need to be able to play as many of the cards you draw as possible. To be able to play the cards you draw, you need to have melds to which cards can be added.

Rummy games are very customizable, and Hand and Foot is no exception. Be sure to check the rules of the table before joining it, because you don't want to find out midway through a game that the rules don't allow a move you've been building up towards.

=== Melding ===

Try to keep meld clean at the beginning, and then dirty up your melds later.

Don't be in a rush to open by opening a bunch of dirty melds. The dirtier you open the less wilds you have for a wild meld. Wilds can be so hard to get sometimes so best not to waste them.

When playing in pairs, open as soon as you can each round.

The most points wins the game, so it's best to have as many clean melds as possible. The best way to catch up when behind is to have piles that are worth the most. Concentrate on wilds, then clean, then dirty. A bunch of dirty piles means you lose 200 points each pile.

=== Hand Management ===

Watch the discards of the person after you. On future turns, you should usually discard a card that this person has already discarded.

Usually, you should discard cards that the opponent has already melded.

Hold onto a couple of wilds in your hand to help you get to your foot (this is after a wild meld has already been started). They go great with pairs to help you walk/run to your foot. If you get the third card for those pairs and can get to your foot, add the wilds to the wild meld.

Picking up the discard pile is usually advisable early in the round. In addition to allowing you to set down a new meld, the cards picked up from the discard pile serve as cushions that help you build up as many melds as possible. That is, cards picked up from the discard pile can be discarded instead of a card from a pair that you've been hoping to turn into a meld.

By picking up the discard, however, you might pick up junk cards (like the 3 of spades) that will set you back on your quest to get to your foot or go out. Attended by great benefits as well as disadvantages, whether to pick up a discard is arguably the most difficult and consequential decision in Hand and Foot.

If you hold onto a pair of a meld already open, you can use them to pick up the discard pile. The discard pile can help you with completing pairs or adding cards to your singles.

=== Foot Management ===

If you're the first partner to get to your foot and the other team isn't close to going out, don't close any melds ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven'''). The more that is closed the harder it will be for your partner to get to their foot.

If you get into your foot before your partner, and the other team isn't close to going out, don't play any cards except wilds on the wild meld and new melds (no more than 3 cards). This is to leave lots of room for your partner to get to their foot. If you top up melds to 5 or 6 cards, your partner may have 2 in hand (holding to pick up discard) or they keep picking up that number. Best to leave room for your partner to add cards.

If your partner is able to walk to their foot after you have been waiting for them in yours, and you can wait, wait one more turn for them to play their foot. You could have already been adjusting your cards to be set up and giving them the chance to play a new set of cards can be very valuable.

=== Endgame Situation ===

Complete your contract before opening a second wild meld. However, there are some situations where it's best to open second wild before completing contact. This can be to gain points due to being behind, you have lots of wilds in your hand and you don't want to dirty a bunch of stuff to get to your foot, etc.

When almost ready to go out but your team needs 1 or 2 dirty piles, don't close all the melds with 6 cards clean until you have your 2 dirties to go out. Too many times teams need just the dirty piles to go out but there isn't any melds ready to close with just a wild. Not having melds ready to close dirty gives the other team time to catch up in points.

Pay attention to how close the other team is ready to go out. ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven''') If they don't have wilds started, then you have time to help your partner get to their foot so don't close anything. However, if the other team has or really close to having their contract, then it's time to close things so you don't lose the points. *** HOWEVER, if you're in the last round and closing stuff doesn't get you ahead in points (or even close), then there's no point in closing melds. This will make it hard for your partner to get to their foot and there's no point as you aren't going to win without them.

=== Fair Play ===

It's OK and in the official rules to ask your partner if you can go out. The only answer your partner should give is a yes or no. However, asking permission to go out is not a built in mechanic of the game and so it is not required.

Table Talk is communication that influences your partner's play, this is considered cheating, please be mindful of what you say.

Don't give up in the last round (let alone any round before that). The game could be close enough to still win, even if losing by 2000 or so points. In this situation, it's best to ask your partner if you can go out before going out.

Tips handandfoot

2022-10-09T13:14:52Z

Mealsy: Arena tips

Please note that these are general rules; they might not be advisable depending on the rules used, game progression, and the expertise of the players.
=== TLDR - Arena tips ===

When to play cards- to open, to make new melds, to get to foot, to make contract/open new melds, to go out.

=== Game mechanics ===

In one turn, you draw two cards and discard one card. You can reduce your hand size by one if you are able to play both of the cards you draw (cards already in hand + 2 drawn cards - 2 played cards - 1 discard = cards already in hand - 1). So to reduce your hand size, and ultimately reduce it to zero, you need to be able to play as many of the cards you draw as possible. To be able to play the cards you draw, you need to have melds to which cards can be added.

Rummy games are very customizable, and Hand and Foot is no exception. Be sure to check the rules of the table before joining it, because you don't want to find out midway through a game that the rules don't allow a move you've been building up towards.

=== Melding ===

Try to keep meld clean at the beginning, and then dirty up your melds later.

Don't be in a rush to open by opening a bunch of dirty melds. The dirtier you open the less wilds you have for a wild meld. Wilds can be so hard to get sometimes so best not to waste them.

When playing in pairs, open as soon as you can each round.

The most points wins the game, so it's best to have as many clean melds as possible. The best way to catch up when behind is to have piles that are worth the most. Concentrate on wilds, then clean, then dirty. A bunch of dirty piles means you lose 200 points each pile.

=== Hand Management ===

Watch the discards of the person after you. On future turns, you should usually discard a card that this person has already discarded.

Usually, you should discard cards that the opponent has already melded.

Hold onto a couple of wilds in your hand to help you get to your foot (this is after a wild meld has already been started). They go great with pairs to help you walk/run to your foot. If you get the third card for those pairs and can get to your foot, add the wilds to the wild meld.

Picking up the discard pile is usually advisable early in the round. In addition to allowing you to set down a new meld, the cards picked up from the discard pile serve as cushions that help you build up as many melds as possible. That is, cards picked up from the discard pile can be discarded instead of a card from a pair that you've been hoping to turn into a meld.

By picking up the discard, however, you might pick up junk cards (like the 3 of spades) that will set you back on your quest to get to your foot or go out. Attended by great benefits as well as disadvantages, whether to pick up a discard is arguably the most difficult and consequential decision in Hand and Foot.

If you hold onto a pair of a meld already open, you can use them to pick up the discard pile. The discard pile can help you with completing pairs or adding cards to your singles.

=== Foot Management ===

If you're the first partner to get to your foot and the other team isn't close to going out, don't close any melds ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven'''). The more that is closed the harder it will be for your partner to get to their foot.

If you get into your foot before your partner, and the other team isn't close to going out, don't play any cards except wilds on the wild meld and new melds (no more than 3 cards). This is to leave lots of room for your partner to get to their foot. If you top up melds to 5 or 6 cards, your partner may have 2 in hand (holding to pick up discard) or they keep picking up that number. Best to leave room for your partner to add cards.

If your partner is able to walk to their foot after you have been waiting for them in yours, and you can wait, wait one more turn for them to play their foot. You could have already been adjusting your cards to be set up and giving them the chance to play a new set of cards can be very valuable.

=== Endgame Situation ===

Complete your contract before opening a second wild meld. However, there are some situations where it's best to open second wild before completing contact. This can be to gain points due to being behind, you have lots of wilds in your hand and you don't want to dirty a bunch of stuff to get to your foot, etc.

When almost ready to go out but your team needs 1 or 2 dirty piles, don't close all the melds with 6 cards clean until you have your 2 dirties to go out. Too many times teams need just the dirty piles to go out but there isn't any melds ready to close with just a wild. Not having melds ready to close dirty gives the other team time to catch up in points.

Pay attention to how close the other team is ready to go out. ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven''') If they don't have wilds started, then you have time to help your partner get to their foot so don't close anything. However, if the other team has or really close to having their contract, then it's time to close things so you don't lose the points. *** HOWEVER, if you're in the last round and closing stuff doesn't get you ahead in points (or even close), then there's no point in closing melds. This will make it hard for your partner to get to their foot and there's no point as you aren't going to win without them.

=== Fair Play ===

It's OK and in the official rules to ask your partner if you can go out. The only answer your partner should give is a yes or no. However, asking permission to go out is not a built in mechanic of the game and so it is not required.

Table Talk is communication that influences your partner's play, this is considered cheating, please be mindful of what you say.

Don't give up in the last round (let alone any round before that). The game could be close enough to still win, even if losing by 2000 or so points. In this situation, it's best to ask your partner if you can go out before going out.

Tips handandfoot

2022-10-02T14:58:49Z

Mealsy: Added info on table talk

Please note that these are general rules; they might not be advisable depending on the rules used, game progression, and the expertise of the players.

=== Game mechanics ===

In one turn, you draw two cards and discard one card. You can reduce your hand size by one if you are able to play both of the cards you draw (cards already in hand + 2 drawn cards - 2 played cards - 1 discard = cards already in hand - 1). So to reduce your hand size, and ultimately reduce it to zero, you need to be able to play as many of the cards you draw as possible. To be able to play the cards you draw, you need to have melds to which cards can be added.

Rummy games are very customizable, and Hand and Foot is no exception. Be sure to check the rules of the table before joining it, because you don't want to find out midway through a game that the rules don't allow a move you've been building up towards.

=== Melding ===

Try to keep meld clean at the beginning, and then dirty up your melds later.

Don't be in a rush to open by opening a bunch of dirty melds. The dirtier you open the less wilds you have for a wild meld. Wilds can be so hard to get sometimes so best not to waste them.

When playing in pairs, open as soon as you can each round.

The most points wins the game, so it's best to have as many clean melds as possible. The best way to catch up when behind is to have piles that are worth the most. Concentrate on wilds, then clean, then dirty. A bunch of dirty piles means you lose 200 points each pile.

=== Hand Management ===

Watch the discards of the person after you. On future turns, you should usually discard a card that this person has already discarded.

Usually, you should discard cards that the opponent has already melded.

Hold onto a couple of wilds in your hand to help you get to your foot (this is after a wild meld has already been started). They go great with pairs to help you walk/run to your foot. If you get the third card for those pairs and can get to your foot, add the wilds to the wild meld.

Picking up the discard pile is usually advisable early in the round. In addition to allowing you to set down a new meld, the cards picked up from the discard pile serve as cushions that help you build up as many melds as possible. That is, cards picked up from the discard pile can be discarded instead of a card from a pair that you've been hoping to turn into a meld.

By picking up the discard, however, you might pick up junk cards (like the 3 of spades) that will set you back on your quest to get to your foot or go out. Attended by great benefits as well as disadvantages, whether to pick up a discard is arguably the most difficult and consequential decision in Hand and Foot.

If you hold onto a pair of a meld already open, you can use them to pick up the discard pile. The discard pile can help you with completing pairs or adding cards to your singles.

=== Foot Management ===

If you're the first partner to get to your foot and the other team isn't close to going out, don't close any melds ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven'''). The more that is closed the harder it will be for your partner to get to their foot.

If you get into your foot before your partner, and the other team isn't close to going out, don't play any cards except wilds on the wild meld and new melds (no more than 3 cards). This is to leave lots of room for your partner to get to their foot. If you top up melds to 5 or 6 cards, your partner may have 2 in hand (holding to pick up discard) or they keep picking up that number. Best to leave room for your partner to add cards.

If your partner is able to walk to their foot after you have been waiting for them in yours, and you can wait, wait one more turn for them to play their foot. You could have already been adjusting your cards to be set up and giving them the chance to play a new set of cards can be very valuable.

=== Endgame Situation ===

Complete your contract before opening a second wild meld. However, there are some situations where it's best to open second wild before completing contact. This can be to gain points due to being behind, you have lots of wilds in your hand and you don't want to dirty a bunch of stuff to get to your foot, etc.

When almost ready to go out but your team needs 1 or 2 dirty piles, don't close all the melds with 6 cards clean until you have your 2 dirties to go out. Too many times teams need just the dirty piles to go out but there isn't any melds ready to close with just a wild. Not having melds ready to close dirty gives the other team time to catch up in points.

Pay attention to how close the other team is ready to go out. ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven''') If they don't have wilds started, then you have time to help your partner get to their foot so don't close anything. However, if the other team has or really close to having their contract, then it's time to close things so you don't lose the points. *** HOWEVER, if you're in the last round and closing stuff doesn't get you ahead in points (or even close), then there's no point in closing melds. This will make it hard for your partner to get to their foot and there's no point as you aren't going to win without them.

=== Fair Play ===

It's OK and in the official rules to ask your partner if you can go out. The only answer your partner should give is a yes or no. However, asking permission to go out is not a built in mechanic of the game and so it is not required.

Table Talk is communication that influences your partner's play, this is considered cheating, please be mindful of what you say.

Don't give up in the last round (let alone any round before that). The game could be close enough to still win, even if losing by 2000 or so points. In this situation, it's best to ask your partner if you can go out before going out.