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	<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/api.php?action=feedcontributions&amp;feedformat=atom&amp;user=MarkSteere</id>
	<title>Board Game Arena - User contributions [en]</title>
	<link rel="self" type="application/atom+xml" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/api.php?action=feedcontributions&amp;feedformat=atom&amp;user=MarkSteere"/>
	<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/Special:Contributions/MarkSteere"/>
	<updated>2026-09-26T13:18:53Z</updated>
	<subtitle>User contributions</subtitle>
	<generator>MediaWiki 1.39.0</generator>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpedgecut&amp;diff=31199</id>
		<title>Gamehelpedgecut</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpedgecut&amp;diff=31199"/>
		<updated>2026-08-26T10:02:58Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: Edgecut rules summary.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Edgecut is an OCG.  An orthogonal connection game.  Brown is trying to form an (orthogonally interconnected) path of brown stones connecting the top and bottom brown edges.  Blue is trying to connect the left and right blue edges with a path of blue stones.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The mechanism for determining legal moves is complicated and is described in the rule sheet.  But legal moves are highlighted in pink, and most moves are legal.  So you just have to swap two stones that are highlighted.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpminefield&amp;diff=30543</id>
		<title>Gamehelpminefield</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpminefield&amp;diff=30543"/>
		<updated>2026-07-06T04:39:46Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: Clarifying goal.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Why have prohibited glyphs?  There&#039;s a reason for it.  Not just because I thought it would be fun.  Prohibiting this particulur set of glyphs prevents deadlocks from occurring.   It ensures that someone will win, every time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Minefield is an SPO OOSCG (Single Placement Only, Orthogonal Only Square Connection Game).  This is a razor thin subclass of connection games.  No moving, removing, flipping, chain reactions, juggling bowing balls on a unicycle... Just adding stones, one stone per turn.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Like all my games, Minefield is finite.  It isn&#039;t possible to have a cyclic draw.  Not every OOSCG is finite.  In fact, you might even have a non-finite OOSCG on BGA.  I only do finite, as a matter of aesthetics. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some people are having trouble grasping the premise of this game.  Black is trying to form a path connecting the top and bottem edges.  White is trying to form a path connecting the left and right edges.  If you understand nothing else, understand that.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some players have observed that, while Minefield&#039;s stated goal requires an orthogonally interconnected path, you can actually win with an ortho-diagonally interconnected path.  This is not an error in the rule sheet.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I have a collection of 18 OOSCGs (Orthogonal Only Square Connection Game), of which Minefield is one.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
But it so happens that in Minefield, once you&#039;ve formed an ortho-diagonal path, your opponent can&#039;t stop you from filling it in and converting it to an orthogonal path.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also, you would never want to start filling in an ortho-diagonal path prematurely, before you had connected your edges.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So the program declares a winner and ends upon the formation of an ortho-diagonal path, because you&#039;ve essentially won at that point.  This has no effect on the gameplay.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I&#039;m keeping the stated goal in the rule sheet as an orthogonal path, in keeping with all of my other OOSCGs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
OOSCGs is a science and a serious hobby of mine.  How to make a square connection game with no possibility of a deadlock or any kind of a draw.  Some designers allow for the possibility of an endless cycle of moves between cooperating players.  I don&#039;t.   All of my games, connection and otherwise, are strictly finite.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpminefield&amp;diff=29837</id>
		<title>Gamehelpminefield</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpminefield&amp;diff=29837"/>
		<updated>2026-05-18T11:45:33Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: Added info&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Why have prohibited glyphs?  There&#039;s a reason for it.  Not just because I thought it would be fun.  Prohibiting this particulur set of glyphs prevents deadlocks from occurring.   It ensures that someone will win, every time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Minefield is an SPO OOSCG (Single Placement Only, Orthogonal Only Square Connection Game).  This is a razor thin subclass of connection games.  No moving, removing, flipping, chain reactions, juggling bowing balls on a unicycle... Just adding stones, one stone per turn.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Like all my games, Minefield is finite.  It isn&#039;t possible to have a cyclic draw.  Not every OOSCG is finite.  In fact, you might even have a non-finite OOSCG on BGA.  I only do finite, as a matter of aesthetics. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some people are having trouble grasping the premise of this game.  Black is trying to form a path connecting the top and bottem edges.  White is trying to form a path connecting the left and right edges.  If you understand nothing else, understand that.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In Minefield you have to form an orthogonally interconnected path connecting the two board edges of your color.  The game is presented like this and can certainly be played like this.  But, once you have formed an ortho-diagonal connecting path, your opponent will not be able to do the same, and there&#039;s nothing to stop you from going back and filling in the diagonal connections, converting them into orthogonal connections.  So you&#039;ve essentially won upon forming an ortho-diagonal connecting path.  In the BGA implementation, the developer chose to end the game at this point - a decision I agree with.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpminefield&amp;diff=29836</id>
		<title>Gamehelpminefield</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpminefield&amp;diff=29836"/>
		<updated>2026-05-18T04:08:41Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: Explanation of game conclusion.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Minefield is an OOSCG (Orthogonal Only Square Connection Game).  You have to form an orthogonally interconnected path connecting the two board edges of your color.  The game is presented like this and can certainly be played like this.  But, once you have formed an ortho-diagonal connecting path, your opponent will not be able to do the same, and there&#039;s nothing to stop you from going back and filling in the diagonal connections, converting them into orthogonal connections.  So you&#039;ve essentially won upon forming an ortho-diagonal connecting path.  In the BGA implementation, the developer chose to end the game at this point - a decision I agree with.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelprunbuster&amp;diff=26979</id>
		<title>Gamehelprunbuster</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelprunbuster&amp;diff=26979"/>
		<updated>2025-10-27T11:33:27Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: Added UI instructions&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== &#039;&#039;&#039;RUN BUSTER&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;INTRODUCTION&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Two players, Red and Blue, sit across from each other at an initially cleared table.   They each begin with a dice cup containing six dice of their own color.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;DEFINITIONS&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Straight&#039;&#039;&#039; - Collection of one or more dice, numbered sequentially, such as (2, 3, 4), (3, 4, 5, 6), and (1). [A straight is always as long as it can be. It’s never a sub-straight of a longer straight.]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Full straight&#039;&#039;&#039; - (1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Complement (or Run Buster)&#039;&#039;&#039; - The set of dice which, when combined with a non-full straight, completes a full straight. For example, the complement of (2, 3, 4) is (1, 5, 6).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;PLAY&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Red, players take turns rolling their dice, &#039;&#039;&#039;one roll per turn&#039;&#039;&#039;, and adding some of their newly rolled dice into their own hand (if they can. See below.)  Players sometimes kill their opponent&#039;s hand.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;OBJECT OF THE GAME&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
To win, your hand must be a full straight. It&#039;s possible to win on your first turn, with a probability of 1.54%, or about 1 in 65 plays.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;RED&#039;S FIRST TURN&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Red rolls the dice in his cup, and, selecting from his rolled dice, forms his hand.  His hand must consist of exactly one straight. [Hands are always comprised of exactly one straight.]  For example, if Red rolls (2, 2, 4, 5, 5, 6), his hand option are (2), (4), (4, 5), (4, 5, 6), (5), (5, 6), and (6). After forming his hand, Red must deposit his remaining dice back into his cup, concluding his turn.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;BLUE&#039;S FIRST TURN&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Blue rolls the dice in his cup.  If Blue&#039;s rolled dice contain the complement of Red&#039;s straight, Blue must remove Red&#039;s hand from the table and drop it into Red&#039;s cup. For example, if Red&#039;s hand is (1, 2, 3, 4), and Blue rolls (1, 3, 3, 5, 6, 6), Blue&#039;s roll contains (5, 6), which is the complement of Red&#039;s (1, 2, 3, 4). Blue must then place Red&#039;s hand in Red&#039;s cup.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Then Blue (whether or not he killed Red’s hand), selecting from his rolled dice, forms his own hand, consisting of exactly one straight.  In this example, from his (1, 3, 3, 5, 6, 6), Blue’s hand options are (1), (3), (5), (5, 6), and (6).  Blue must then put his remaining dice back in his cup, concluding his turn.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;ALL REMAINING TURNS&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Begin your turn by rolling the dice in your cup. If your newly rolled dice contain the complement of your opponent&#039;s straight, you must remove his hand from the table and deposit it in his cup, as described above.  Then (whether or not you&#039;ve killed your opponent&#039;s hand) you must &#039;&#039;&#039;extend your straight&#039;&#039;&#039; with at least one of your newly rolled dice, &#039;&#039;&#039;if you can&#039;&#039;&#039;. For example, say your hand is (4, 5) and you&#039;ve rolled (3, 4, 4, 6).  Your new, extended straight options are (3, 4, 5), (3, 4, 5, 6), and (4, 5, 6).  But say that, instead, you&#039;ve rolled (1, 2, 4, 5). In this case, there&#039;s no way to extend your (4, 5) straight.  As always, put your remaining dice back in your cup, concluding your turn.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;MONOCOLOR RUN BUSTER&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Each player must have their own hand, but not necessarily their own color. All of the dice can be standard white dice with black pips for example.  Just try to keep the hands separated if they&#039;re all the same color.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;MULTIPLAYER RUN BUSTER&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Run Buster can actually accommodate any number of players.  Remove all of your opponents’ hands for which you have complements in your newly rolled dice.  Randomly choose Player 1 and proceed clockwise.  In successive rounds, the new Player 1 is to the left of the previous Player 1.  The round winners drop out, one by one, and the last remaining player buys the next round of drinks.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;DESIGN NOTES&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
The challenge was to design a simple dice game with a certain symmetry: Six faces on a die, six dice, and a goal of six different numbers.  It took me a few weeks of trance-like concentration.  Inventing concepts.  Morphing and recombining them.  Eventually the solution came together in the form of this very satisfying mechanism.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;BGA USER INTERFACE&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;DICE CUPS&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
The Run Buster UI is shockingly minimal.  Starting out, there are two dice cups on the screen - one on the upper half and one on the lower half.  The lower dice cup is yours.  It is initially colored green.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;ROLL YOUR DICE&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Begin your turn by clicking on your dice cup.  This rolls your dice.  Your dice cup turns yellow after your roll.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;ADD DICE TO YOUR HAND&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Add some of your rolled dice to your hand by clicking on them.  You must add at least one die to your hand, if you can.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;CONCLUDE YOUR TURN&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Once you&#039;ve added all of the dice to your hand that you intend to, click on your (now yellow) dice cup.  This puts all of your unused, rolled dice back into your cup, and turns your cup red, concluding your turn.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelprunbuster&amp;diff=26940</id>
		<title>Gamehelprunbuster</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelprunbuster&amp;diff=26940"/>
		<updated>2025-10-23T04:25:28Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== &#039;&#039;&#039;RUN BUSTER&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;INTRODUCTION&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Two players, Red and Blue, sit across from each other at an initially cleared table.   They each begin with a dice cup containing six dice of their own color.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;DEFINITIONS&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Straight&#039;&#039;&#039; - Collection of one or more dice, numbered sequentially, such as (2, 3, 4), (3, 4, 5, 6), and (1). [A straight is always as long as it can be. It’s never a sub-straight of a longer straight.]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Full straight&#039;&#039;&#039; - (1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Complement (or Run Buster)&#039;&#039;&#039; - The set of dice which, when combined with a non-full straight, completes a full straight. For example, the complement of (2, 3, 4) is (1, 5, 6).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;PLAY&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Red, players take turns rolling their dice, &#039;&#039;&#039;one roll per turn&#039;&#039;&#039;, and adding some of their newly rolled dice into their own hand (if they can. See below.)  Players sometimes kill their opponent&#039;s hand.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;OBJECT OF THE GAME&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
To win, your hand must be a full straight. It&#039;s possible to win on your first turn, with a probability of 1.54%, or about 1 in 65 plays.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;RED&#039;S FIRST TURN&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Red rolls the dice in his cup, and, selecting from his rolled dice, forms his hand.  His hand must consist of exactly one straight. [Hands are always comprised of exactly one straight.]  For example, if Red rolls (2, 2, 4, 5, 5, 6), his hand option are (2), (4), (4, 5), (4, 5, 6), (5), (5, 6), and (6). After forming his hand, Red must deposit his remaining dice back into his cup, concluding his turn.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;BLUE&#039;S FIRST TURN&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Blue rolls the dice in his cup.  If Blue&#039;s rolled dice contain the complement of Red&#039;s straight, Blue must remove Red&#039;s hand from the table and drop it into Red&#039;s cup. For example, if Red&#039;s hand is (1, 2, 3, 4), and Blue rolls (1, 3, 3, 5, 6, 6), Blue&#039;s roll contains (5, 6), which is the complement of Red&#039;s (1, 2, 3, 4). Blue must then place Red&#039;s hand in Red&#039;s cup.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Then Blue (whether or not he killed Red’s hand), selecting from his rolled dice, forms his own hand, consisting of exactly one straight.  In this example, from his (1, 3, 3, 5, 6, 6), Blue’s hand options are (1), (3), (5), (5, 6), and (6).  Blue must then put his remaining dice back in his cup, concluding his turn.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;ALL REMAINING TURNS&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Begin your turn by rolling the dice in your cup. If your newly rolled dice contain the complement of your opponent&#039;s straight, you must remove his hand from the table and deposit it in his cup, as described above.  Then (whether or not you&#039;ve killed your opponent&#039;s hand) you must &#039;&#039;&#039;extend your straight&#039;&#039;&#039; with at least one of your newly rolled dice, &#039;&#039;&#039;if you can&#039;&#039;&#039;. For example, say your hand is (4, 5) and you&#039;ve rolled (3, 4, 4, 6).  Your new, extended straight options are (3, 4, 5), (3, 4, 5, 6), and (4, 5, 6).  But say that, instead, you&#039;ve rolled (1, 2, 4, 5). In this case, there&#039;s no way to extend your (4, 5) straight.  As always, put your remaining dice back in your cup, concluding your turn.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;MONOCOLOR RUN BUSTER&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Each player must have their own hand, but not necessarily their own color. All of the dice can be standard white dice with black pips for example.  Just try to keep the hands separated if they&#039;re all the same color.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;MULTIPLAYER RUN BUSTER&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Run Buster can actually accommodate any number of players.  Remove all of your opponents’ hands for which you have complements in your newly rolled dice.  Randomly choose Player 1 and proceed clockwise.  In successive rounds, the new Player 1 is to the left of the previous Player 1.  The round winners drop out, one by one, and the last remaining player buys the next round of drinks.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;DESIGN NOTES&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
The challenge was to design a simple dice game with a certain symmetry: Six faces on a die, six dice, and a goal of six different numbers.  It took me a few weeks of trance-like concentration.  Inventing concepts.  Morphing and recombining them.  Eventually the solution came together in the form of this very satisfying mechanism.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelprunbuster&amp;diff=26939</id>
		<title>Gamehelprunbuster</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelprunbuster&amp;diff=26939"/>
		<updated>2025-10-23T04:22:05Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: Created page with &amp;quot;== &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;RUN BUSTER&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; == ==== &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;INTRODUCTION&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; ==== Two players, Red and Blue, sit across from each other at an initially cleared table.   They each begin with a dice cup containing six dice of their own color.  ==== &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;DEFINITIONS&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; ==== &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Straight&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; - Collection of one or more dice, numbered sequentially, such as (2, 3, 4), (3, 4, 5, 6), and (1). [A straight is always as long as it can be. It’s never a sub-straight of a longer straight.] &amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039;Full straight&amp;#039;&amp;#039;&amp;#039; - (1,...&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== &#039;&#039;&#039;RUN BUSTER&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;INTRODUCTION&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Two players, Red and Blue, sit across from each other at an initially cleared table.   They each begin with a dice cup containing six dice of their own color.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;DEFINITIONS&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Straight&#039;&#039;&#039; - Collection of one or more dice, numbered sequentially, such as (2, 3, 4), (3, 4, 5, 6), and (1). [A straight is always as long as it can be. It’s never a sub-straight of a longer straight.]&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Full straight&#039;&#039;&#039; - (1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6)&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;Complement (or Run Buster)&#039;&#039;&#039; - The set of dice which, when combined with a non-full straight, completes a full straight. For example, the complement of (2, 3, 4) is (1, 5, 6).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;PLAY&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Red, players take turns rolling their dice, &#039;&#039;&#039;one roll per turn&#039;&#039;&#039;, and adding some of their newly rolled dice into their own hand (if they can. See below.)  Players sometimes kill their opponent&#039;s hand.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;OBJECT OF THE GAME&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
To win, your hand must be a full straight. It&#039;s possible to win on your first turn, with a probability of 1.54%, or about 1 in 65 plays.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;RED&#039;S FIRST TURN&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Red rolls the dice in his cup, and, selecting from his rolled dice, forms his hand.  His hand must consist of exactly one straight. [Hands are always comprised of exactly one straight.]  For example, if Red rolls (2, 2, 4, 5, 5, 6), his hand option are (2), (4), (4, 5), (4, 5, 6), (5), (5, 6), and (6). After forming his hand, Red must deposit his remaining dice back into his cup, concluding his turn.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;BLUE&#039;S FIRST TURN&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Blue rolls the dice in his cup.  If Blue&#039;s rolled dice contain the complement of Red&#039;s straight, Blue must remove Red&#039;s hand from the table and drop it into Red&#039;s cup. For example, if Red&#039;s hand is (1, 2, 3, 4), and Blue rolls (1, 3, 3, 5, 6, 6), Blue&#039;s roll contains (5, 6), which is the complement of Red&#039;s (1, 2, 3, 4). Blue must then place Red&#039;s hand in Red&#039;s cup.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Then Blue (whether or not he killed Red’s hand), selecting from his rolled dice, forms his own hand, consisting of exactly one straight.  In this example, from his (1, 3, 3, 5, 6, 6), Blue’s hand options are (1), (3), (5), (5, 6), and (6).  Blue must then put his remaining dice back in his cup, concluding his turn.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;ALL REMAINING TURNS&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Begin your turn by rolling the dice in your cup. If your newly rolled dice contain the complement of your opponent&#039;s straight, you must remove his hand from the table and deposit it in his cup, as described above.  Then (whether or not you&#039;ve killed your opponent&#039;s hand) you must &#039;&#039;&#039;extend your straight&#039;&#039;&#039; with at least one of your newly rolled dice, &#039;&#039;&#039;if you can&#039;&#039;&#039;. For example, say your hand is (4, 5) and you&#039;ve rolled (3, 4, 4, 6).  Your new, extended straight options are (3, 4, 5), (3, 4, 5, 6), and (4, 5, 6).  But say that, instead, you&#039;ve rolled (1, 2, 4, 5). In this case, there&#039;s no way to extend your (4, 5) straight.  As always, put your remaining dice back in your cup, concluding your turn.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;MONOCOLOR RUN BUSTER&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;MULTIPLAYER RUN BUSTER&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Run Buster can actually accommodate any number of players.  Remove all of your opponents’ hands for which you have complements in your newly rolled dice.  Randomly choose Player 1 and proceed clockwise.  In successive rounds, the new Player 1 is to the left of the previous Player 1.  The round winners drop out, one by one, and the last remaining player buys the next round of drinks.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;DESIGN NOTES&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
The challenge was to design a simple dice game with a certain symmetry: Six faces on a die, six dice, and a goal of six different numbers.  It took me a few weeks of trance-like concentration.  Inventing concepts.  Morphing and recombining them.  Eventually the solution came together in the form of this very satisfying mechanism.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpstrategicreserve&amp;diff=26878</id>
		<title>Gamehelpstrategicreserve</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpstrategicreserve&amp;diff=26878"/>
		<updated>2025-10-20T11:53:19Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: Added BGA notes&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;=== &#039;&#039;&#039;INTRODUCTION&#039;&#039;&#039; ===&lt;br /&gt;
Strategic Reserve is a two-player game of skill and luck. It&#039;s played on a 6x6 square board, initially set up with 6 red and 6 blue checkers, arranged in a square of alternating colors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== &#039;&#039;&#039;RESERVE&#039;&#039;&#039; === &lt;br /&gt;
You begin with 6 checkers of your own color in your &amp;quot;reserve&amp;quot; - basically a bunch of checkers on the table on your side of the board. Checkers that you place on the board come from your reserve.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== &#039;&#039;&#039;DICE&#039;&#039;&#039; === &lt;br /&gt;
Two dice are used - one purple and one green. A dice roll defines one square on the board. The purple die value is the horizontal coordinate. The green die value is the vertical coordinate. Horizontal coordinates span from your left column to your right column. Vertical coordinates span from your near row to your far row.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== &#039;&#039;&#039;PLAY&#039;&#039;&#039; === &lt;br /&gt;
Begin your turn by rolling the dice. Remove zero or more enemy checkers, based on the dice roll (explained below), and return them to your opponent’s reserve. Then place a checker on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== &#039;&#039;&#039;GROUP&#039;&#039;&#039; === &lt;br /&gt;
A group is a group of at least one orthogonally (horizontally or vertically) interconnected, like-colored checkers. A group is never a subgroup of a larger group.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== &#039;&#039;&#039; HITS&#039;&#039;&#039; === &lt;br /&gt;
1. If your dice roll hits an enemy group, remove that group, return it to your opponent&#039;s reserve, and place a checker onto any unoccupied square on the board. &lt;br /&gt;
2. If you hit a friendly group with your dice roll, remove all enemy groups adjacent to your friendly group, return them to your opponent&#039;s reserve, and place a checker orthogonally adjacent to your friendly group. &lt;br /&gt;
3. If you don&#039;t hit any groups with your dice roll, place a checker onto any unoccupied square on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== &#039;&#039;&#039;OBJECT OF THE GAME&#039;&#039;&#039; === &lt;br /&gt;
Empty your reserve. When you remove the last checker from your reserve, you win.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== &#039;&#039;&#039;BGA ADAPTATION NOTES&#039;&#039;&#039; == &lt;br /&gt;
Strategic Reserve is a very unusual game, and there has been some confusion about the rules.  I always try to do what has never been done in my designs.  Apparently, I really batted it out of the ballpark with Strategic Reserve.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Apologies in advance for the all caps, but I really want to add emphasis.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
PLACEMENTS NEVER CAUSE CAPTURES.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
ONLY DICE ROLLS CAUSE CAPTURES.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Your turn begins with a dice roll.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
ANY RESULTING CAPTURES ARE AUTOMATIC AND IMMEDIATE.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Your turn concludes with a placement. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
What happens is that IMMEDIATELY FOLLOWING YOUR PLACEMENT, it&#039;s your opponent&#039;s turn, and their dice roll and possible captures happen automatically.  This can create the illusion that, somehow, your placement caused the captures.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
IT DIDN&#039;T.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Again, sorry about the all caps.  Just trying to get the point across. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I understand the reluctance to read rule sheets, especially from indie abstract designers like me.  Around 95% of such rule sheets are very poorly written.  The writer is very familiar with their own game, and they assume that you will read their mind, and understand.  They&#039;re unwilling or incapable of making their rule sheets clear, comprehensive, and unambiguous.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I&#039;m the exception.  If you read my rule sheets carefully, and study the diagrams (which were designed to answer your possible questions), you will understand.  Sure, it&#039;s possible to take a sentence or two out of context, and wonder about their meaning.  But taken as a whole, any one of my rule sheets will virtually guarantee that your picture of the rules is totally accurate.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
What I&#039;m getting at here, is that if you read the rule sheet for Strategic Reserve, you&#039;ll know that placements don&#039;t cause captures.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpfourtwenty&amp;diff=26819</id>
		<title>Gamehelpfourtwenty</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpfourtwenty&amp;diff=26819"/>
		<updated>2025-10-13T21:45:32Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== &#039;&#039;&#039;420&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;INTRODUCTION&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Players sit across from each other at an initially cleared table. The two players, Red and Blue, take turns maintaining a hand of four dice of their own color. Mark Steere designed 420 in September 2025.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;PLAY&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Red, players begin by rolling all four of their own dice, forming their hand. On each of your subsequent turns, you must reroll 1, 2, 3, or 4 of the dice in your hand, and add them back into your hand - &#039;&#039;&#039;one roll per turn&#039;&#039;&#039;.  (See REROLL RESTRICTIONS below.) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;OBJECT OF THE GAME&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
The goal is for the dice in your hand to total exactly 20. No more, no less. For example, (6, 5, 5, 4) is a winning hand. It&#039;s possible to win the game on your first turn, with a probability of 2.7% - about 1 in 37 &lt;br /&gt;
plays.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;REROLL RESTRICTIONS&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
* ..&#039;&#039;&#039;4 dice:&#039;&#039;&#039; You can always reroll 4 dice.&lt;br /&gt;
* ..&#039;&#039;&#039;3 dice:&#039;&#039;&#039; You can only reroll 3 dice if the remaining die has a value of at least &#039;&#039;&#039;5&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
* ..&#039;&#039;&#039;2 dice:&#039;&#039;&#039; You can only reroll 2 dice if the remaining 2 dice sum to at least &#039;&#039;&#039;10&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
* ..&#039;&#039;&#039;1 die:&#039;&#039;&#039; You can only reroll 1 die if the remaining 3 dice sum to at least &#039;&#039;&#039;15&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;GO OVER AND RESET&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
If your hand sums to 21 or higher, on your next turn you must reroll all four of your dice (reset).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;MONOCOLOR 420&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Each player must have their own hand but not necessarily their own color. All of the dice can be standard white dice with black pips for example. Just try to keep the hands separated if they&#039;re all the same color.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;MULTIPLAYER 420&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
420 can actually accommodate any number of players. Randomly choose Player 1. Succeeding turns proceed clockwise. In successive rounds, the new Player 1 is to the left of the previous Player 1.  The round winners drop out, and the last remaining player buys the drinks.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;DESIGN NOTES&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
I wanted to invent a simple dice game.  No score sheet.  No poker chips.  Just dice.  And then simple rules.  No combinations to memorize.  No bids, no bluffs...  No showdowns or tiebreakers.  But I also wanted strategy, which 420 has.  I had never heard of pub games, but to my surprise, 420 turned out to be a classic pub game.  Easy to learn, easy to play.  A lot of luck, and a little strategy.  Short duration.  Nobody wants to think too hard or wait too long for their next drink.  I’m really glad to have a pub game, now that I know what they are.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;STRATEGY&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
You have to balance your risk against the quality of your opponent‘s hand.  For example, say your opponent has (6, 5, 4, 1) - an ideal hand with a foundation of 15, and a single die.  She would keep rerolling the 1 until either winning or going over.  And say you have (6, 5, 5, 1) - not an ideal hand.  It has a foundation of 16.  Should you reroll your 6 and 1 to try to form an ideal hand?  Or just reroll the 1?  Just the 1.  You don’t have time to go back and try to form an ideal hand, because your opponent already has one.  Now consider the same problem, but this time your opponent has (4, 3, 3, 2).  Now you &#039;&#039;&#039;would&#039;&#039;&#039; reroll your 6 and 1, because now you have time to try for an ideal hand.  And there may be more complex problems involving a choice between rerolling two dice or three dice.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;REROLL NOTE&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Select the dice to reroll by clicking on them.  The unselected dice will remain.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpfourtwenty&amp;diff=26794</id>
		<title>Gamehelpfourtwenty</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpfourtwenty&amp;diff=26794"/>
		<updated>2025-10-10T14:14:24Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: minor typo&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== &#039;&#039;&#039;420&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;INTRODUCTION&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Players sit across from each other at an initially cleared table. The two players, Red and Blue, take turns maintaining a hand of four dice of their own color. Mark Steere designed 420 in September 2025.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;PLAY&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Red, players begin by rolling all four of their own dice, forming their hand. On each of your subsequent turns, you must reroll 1, 2, 3, or 4 of the dice in your hand, and add them back into your hand - &#039;&#039;&#039;one roll per turn&#039;&#039;&#039;.  (See REROLL RESTRICTIONS below.) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;OBJECT OF THE GAME&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
The goal is for the dice in your hand to total exactly 20. No more, no less. For example, (6, 5, 5, 4) is a winning hand. It&#039;s possible to win the game on your first turn, with a probability of 2.7% - about 1 in 37 &lt;br /&gt;
plays.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;REROLL RESTRICTIONS&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
* ..&#039;&#039;&#039;4 dice:&#039;&#039;&#039; You can always reroll 4 dice.&lt;br /&gt;
* ..&#039;&#039;&#039;3 dice:&#039;&#039;&#039; You can only reroll 3 dice if the remaining die has a value of at least &#039;&#039;&#039;5&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
* ..&#039;&#039;&#039;2 dice:&#039;&#039;&#039; You can only reroll 2 dice if the remaining 2 dice sum to at least &#039;&#039;&#039;10&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
* ..&#039;&#039;&#039;1 die:&#039;&#039;&#039; You can only reroll 1 die if the remaining 3 dice sum to at least &#039;&#039;&#039;15&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;GO OVER AND RESET&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
If your hand sums to 21 or higher, on your next turn you must reroll all four of your dice (reset).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;MONOCOLOR 420&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Each player must have their own hand but not necessarily their own color. All of the dice can be standard white dice with black pips for example. Just try to keep the hands separated if they&#039;re all the same color.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;MULTIPLAYER 420&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
420 can actually accommodate any number of players. Randomly choose Player 1. Succeeding turns proceed clockwise. In successive rounds, the new Player 1 is to the left of the previous Player 1.  The round winners drop out, and the last remaining player buys the drinks.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;DESIGN NOTES&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
I wanted to invent a simple dice game.  No score sheet.  No poker chips.  Just dice.  And then simple rules.  No combinations to memorize.  No bids, no bluffs...  No showdowns or tiebreakers.  But I also wanted strategy, which 420 has.  I had never heard of pub games, but to my surprise, 420 turned out to be a classic pub game.  Easy to learn, easy to play.  A lot of luck, and a little strategy.  Short duration.  Nobody wants to think too hard or wait too long for their next drink.  I’m really glad to have a pub game, now that I know what they are.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;STRATEGY&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
You have to balance your risk against the quality of your opponent‘s hand.  For example, say your opponent has (6, 5, 4, 1) - an ideal hand with a foundation of 15, and a single die.  She would keep rerolling the 1 until either winning or going over.  And say you have (6, 5, 5, 1) - not an ideal hand.  It has a foundation of 16.  Should you reroll your 6 and 1 to try to form an ideal hand?  Or just reroll the 1?  Just the 1.  You don’t have time to go back and try to form an ideal hand, because your opponent already has one.  Now consider the same problem, but this time your opponent has (4, 3, 3, 2).  Now you &#039;&#039;&#039;would&#039;&#039;&#039; reroll your 6 and 1, because now you have time to try for an ideal hand.  And there may be more complex problems involving a choice between rerolling two dice or three dice.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpfourtwenty&amp;diff=26793</id>
		<title>Gamehelpfourtwenty</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpfourtwenty&amp;diff=26793"/>
		<updated>2025-10-10T14:13:17Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: Added Strategy section&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== &#039;&#039;&#039;420&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;INTRODUCTION&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Players sit across from each other at an initially cleared table. The two players, Red and Blue, take turns maintaining a hand of four dice of their own color. Mark Steere designed 420 in September 2025.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;PLAY&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Red, players begin by rolling all four of their own dice, forming their hand. On each of your subsequent turns, you must reroll 1, 2, 3, or 4 of the dice in your hand, and add them back into your hand - &#039;&#039;&#039;one roll per turn&#039;&#039;&#039;.  (See REROLL RESTRICTIONS below.) &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;OBJECT OF THE GAME&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
The goal is for the dice in your hand to total exactly 20. No more, no less. For example, (6, 5, 5, 4) is a winning hand. It&#039;s possible to win the game on your first turn, with a probability of 2.7% - about 1 in 37 &lt;br /&gt;
plays.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;REROLL RESTRICTIONS&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
* ..&#039;&#039;&#039;4 dice:&#039;&#039;&#039; You can always reroll 4 dice.&lt;br /&gt;
* ..&#039;&#039;&#039;3 dice:&#039;&#039;&#039; You can only reroll 3 dice if the remaining die has a value of at least &#039;&#039;&#039;5&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
* ..&#039;&#039;&#039;2 dice:&#039;&#039;&#039; You can only reroll 2 dice if the remaining 2 dice sum to at least &#039;&#039;&#039;10&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
* ..&#039;&#039;&#039;1 die:&#039;&#039;&#039; You can only reroll 1 die if the remaining 3 dice sum to at least &#039;&#039;&#039;15&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;GO OVER AND RESET&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
If your hand sums to 21 or higher, on your next turn you must reroll all four of your dice (reset).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;MONOCOLOR 420&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Each player must have their own hand but not necessarily their own color. All of the dice can be standard white dice with black pips for example. Just try to keep the hands separated if they&#039;re all the same color.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;MULTIPLAYER 420&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
420 can actually accommodate any number of players. Randomly choose Player 1. Succeeding turns proceed clockwise. In successive rounds, the new Player 1 is to the left of the previous Player 1.  The round winners drop out, and the last remaining player buys the drinks.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;DESIGN NOTES&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
I wanted to invent a simple dice game.  No score sheet.  No poker chips.  Just dice.  And then simple rules.  No combinations to memorize.  No bids, no bluffs...  No showdowns or tiebreakers.  But I also wanted strategy, which 420 has.  I had never heard of pub games, but to my surprise, 420 turned out to be a classic pub game.  Easy to learn, easy to play.  A lot of luck, and a little strategy.  Short duration.  Nobody wants to think too hard or wait too long for their next drink.  I’m really glad to have a pub game, now that I know what they are.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;STRATEGY&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
You have to balance your risk against the quality of your opponent‘s hand.  For example, say your opponent has (6, 5, 4, 1) - an ideal hand with a foundation of 15, and a single die.  She would keep rerolling the 1 until either Winning or going over.  And say you have (6, 5, 5, 1) - not an ideal hand.  It has a foundation of 16.  Should you reroll your 6 and 1 to try to form an ideal hand?  Or just reroll the 1?  Just the 1.  You don’t have time to go back and try to form an ideal hand, because your opponent already has one.  Now consider the same problem, but this time your opponent has (4, 3, 3, 2).  Now you &#039;&#039;&#039;would&#039;&#039;&#039; reroll your 6 and 1, because now you have time to try for an ideal hand.  And there may be more complex problems involving a choice between rerolling two dice or three dice.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpfourtwenty&amp;diff=26792</id>
		<title>Gamehelpfourtwenty</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpfourtwenty&amp;diff=26792"/>
		<updated>2025-10-10T13:27:01Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: Minor formatting change&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== &#039;&#039;&#039;420&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;INTRODUCTION&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Players sit across from each other at an initially cleared table. The two players, Red and Blue, take turns maintaining a hand of four dice of their own color. Mark Steere designed 420 in September 2025.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;PLAY&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Red, players begin by rolling all four of their own dice, forming their hand. On each of your subsequent turns, you must reroll 1, 2, 3, or 4 of the dice in your hand, and add them back into your hand - &#039;&#039;&#039;one roll per turn&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;OBJECT OF THE GAME&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
The goal is for the dice in your hand to total exactly 20. No more, no less. For example, (6, 5, 5, 4) is a winning hand. It&#039;s possible to win the game on your first turn, with a probability of 2.7% - about 1 in 37 &lt;br /&gt;
plays.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;REROLL RESTRICTIONS&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
* ..&#039;&#039;&#039;4 dice:&#039;&#039;&#039; You can always reroll 4 dice.&lt;br /&gt;
* ..&#039;&#039;&#039;3 dice:&#039;&#039;&#039; You can only reroll 3 dice if the remaining die has a value of at least &#039;&#039;&#039;5&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
* ..&#039;&#039;&#039;2 dice:&#039;&#039;&#039; You can only reroll 2 dice if the remaining 2 dice sum to at least &#039;&#039;&#039;10&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
* ..&#039;&#039;&#039;1 die:&#039;&#039;&#039; You can only reroll 1 die if the remaining 3 dice sum to at least &#039;&#039;&#039;15&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;GO OVER AND RESET&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
If your hand sums to 21 or higher, on your next turn you must reroll all four of your dice (reset).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;MONOCOLOR 420&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Each player must have their own hand but not necessarily their own color. All of the dice can be standard white dice with black pips for example. Just try to keep the hands separated if they&#039;re all the same color.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;MULTIPLAYER 420&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
420 can actually accommodate any number of players. Randomly choose Player 1. Succeeding turns proceed clockwise. In successive rounds, the new Player 1 is to the left of the previous Player 1.  The round winners drop out, and the last remaining player buys the drinks.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;DESIGN NOTES&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
I wanted to invent a simple dice game. No score pad, no pencil... No poker chips. No box, no bag... Just dice. And then simple rules. No combinations to memorize. No bids, no bluffs... No showdowns or tiebreakers. But I also wanted strategy. Your decisions should be informed by your opponents’ hands.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpfourtwenty&amp;diff=26791</id>
		<title>Gamehelpfourtwenty</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpfourtwenty&amp;diff=26791"/>
		<updated>2025-10-10T04:01:58Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: 420 Rules&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== &#039;&#039;&#039;420&#039;&#039;&#039; ==&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;INTRODUCTION&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Players sit across from each other at an initially cleared table. The two players, Red and Blue, take turns maintaining a hand of four dice of their own color. Mark Steere designed 420 in September 2025.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;PLAY&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Starting with Red, players begin by rolling all four of their own dice, forming their hand. On each of your subsequent turns, you must reroll 1, 2, 3, or 4 of the dice in your hand, and add them back into your hand - &#039;&#039;&#039;one roll per turn&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;OBJECT OF THE GAME&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
The goal is for the dice in your hand to total exactly 20. No more, no less. For example, (6, 5, 5, 4) is a winning hand. It&#039;s possible to win the game on your first turn, with a probability of 2.7% - about 1 in 37 &lt;br /&gt;
plays.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;REROLL RESTRICTIONS&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
* ..4 dice: You can always reroll 4 dice.&lt;br /&gt;
* ..3 dice: You can only reroll 3 dice if the remaining die has a value of at least &#039;&#039;&#039;5&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
* ..2 dice: You can only reroll 2 dice if the remaining 2 dice sum to at least &#039;&#039;&#039;10&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
* ..1 die: You can only reroll 1 die if the remaining 3 dice sum to at least &#039;&#039;&#039;15&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;GO OVER AND RESET&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
If your hand sums to 21 or higher, on your next turn you must reroll all four of your dice (reset).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;MONOCOLOR 420&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
Each player must have their own hand but not necessarily their own color. All of the dice can be standard white dice with black pips for example. Just try to keep the hands separated if they&#039;re all the same color.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;MULTIPLAYER 420&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
420 can actually accommodate any number of players. Randomly choose Player 1. Succeeding turns proceed clockwise. In successive rounds, the new Player 1 is to the left of the previous Player 1.  The round winners drop out, and the last remaining player buys the drinks.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== &#039;&#039;&#039;DESIGN NOTES&#039;&#039;&#039; ====&lt;br /&gt;
I wanted to invent a simple dice game. No score pad, no pencil... No poker chips. No box, no bag... Just dice. And then simple rules. No combinations to memorize. No bids, no bluffs... No showdowns or tiebreakers. But I also wanted strategy. Your decisions should be informed by your opponents’ hands.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpstrategicreserve&amp;diff=26619</id>
		<title>Gamehelpstrategicreserve</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpstrategicreserve&amp;diff=26619"/>
		<updated>2025-09-28T14:24:23Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: Created page with &amp;quot;INTRODUCTION Strategic Reserve is a two-player game of skill and luck. It&amp;#039;s played on a 6x6 square board, initially set up with 6 red and 6 blue checkers, arranged in a square of alternating colors.  RESERVE You begin with 6 checkers of your own color in your &amp;quot;reserve&amp;quot; - basically a bunch of checkers on the table on your side of the board. Checkers that you place on the board come from your reserve.  DICE Two dice are used - one purple and one green. A dice roll defines...&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;INTRODUCTION&lt;br /&gt;
Strategic Reserve is a two-player game of skill and luck. It&#039;s played on a 6x6 square board, initially set up with 6 red and 6 blue checkers, arranged in a square of alternating colors.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
RESERVE&lt;br /&gt;
You begin with 6 checkers of your own color in your &amp;quot;reserve&amp;quot; - basically a bunch of checkers on the table on your side of the board. Checkers that you place on the board come from your reserve.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
DICE&lt;br /&gt;
Two dice are used - one purple and one green. A dice roll defines one square on the board. The purple die value is the horizontal coordinate. The green die value is the vertical coordinate. Horizontal coordinates span from your left column to your right column. Vertical coordinates span from your near row to your far row.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
PLAY&lt;br /&gt;
Begin your turn by rolling the dice. Remove zero or more enemy checkers, based on the dice roll (explained below), and return them to your opponent’s reserve. Then place a checker on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
GROUP&lt;br /&gt;
A group is a group of at least one orthogonally (horizontally or vertically) interconnected, like-colored checkers. A group is never a subgroup of a larger group.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
HITS&lt;br /&gt;
1. If your dice roll hits an enemy group, remove that group, return it to your opponent&#039;s reserve, and place a checker onto any unoccupied square on the board. &lt;br /&gt;
2. If you hit a friendly group with your dice roll, remove all enemy groups adjacent to your friendly group, return them to your opponent&#039;s reserve, and place a checker orthogonally adjacent to your friendly group. &lt;br /&gt;
3. If you don&#039;t hit any groups with your dice roll, place a checker onto any unoccupied square on the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
OBJECT OF THE GAME&lt;br /&gt;
Empty your reserve. When you remove the last checker from your reserve, you win.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpjokerball&amp;diff=26434</id>
		<title>Gamehelpjokerball</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpjokerball&amp;diff=26434"/>
		<updated>2025-09-05T23:20:05Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Jokerball is a violent soccer game. It involves strategy and luck.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The hexagonal board is walled off on the two left sides and the two right sides, and open on the two remaining, opposite sides. The open sides are the goals.&lt;br /&gt;
Men start out lined up in front of their own goals, and the ball is in in the center.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The men gradually move out and kill each other off, thereby opening holes in their defenses and making it possible for the ball to exit the board through a goal.&lt;br /&gt;
The purple die determines the distance a man must travel, but the player chooses his direction. The green die determines the direction the ball must travel, but the player chooses its distance.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
More specifically, a man makes a non-capturing move in one of the two forward directions in a straight line, along a path of contiguous, unoccupied cells.  It travels exactly the distance indicated by the purple die, unless blocked by a wall, the ball, or a friendly man, in which case it stops short, adjacent to the block.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A man makes a capturing move in any direction, in a straight line, along a path of contiguous, unoccupied cells, terminated by an enemy man, within the range indicated by the purple die.  The terminus man is captured by replacement.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After moving one of your men, you must move the ball, in the direction indicated by the green die, as described below, along a path of contiguous, unoccupied cells, any distance.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Green Die Indicated Ball Directions: 1 - backward left. 2 - left. 3 - forward left. 4 - forward right. 5 - right. 6 - backward right.  The directions are from the perspective of the player moving the ball.  The players&#039; directions are opposite from each other.  So for example, Red&#039;s 2 is the opposite direction of Blue&#039;s 2.  Red&#039;s 2 is the same direction as Blue&#039;s 5.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You win when the ball exits the board through the goal opposite of where you&#039;re sitting.  It doesn&#039;t matter who moves the ball off the board.  It&#039;s remotely possible that you would have to move the ball through your own goal and lose the game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can undo man selection by clicking any unhighlighted cell.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Jokerball is played in matches of from 1 to 21 games.  You choose how many at the outset.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A doubling cube can be employed in the match, as an option.  You can search online for Backgammon doubling cube for information about that.  But basically, if I offer you a double, and if you accept it, the game is now worth double the points.  If you don&#039;t accept it, you lose the game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Jokerball uses the Crawford rule. There&#039;s information about this online as well.  If a player is 1 point away from winning the match, the next game is a Crawford game, in which the doubling cube can&#039;t be offered.  There can be only one Crawford game per match.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The &amp;quot;dead cube&amp;quot; rule (as defined by USBGF and WBGF):  If the player owning the doubling cube could win the match by winning the current game, then she has no reason to offer a double, and is not allowed to offer a double.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Nessuno, a professional and highly skilled developer, has been invaluable in bringing you Jokerball.  Advice and suggestions are helpful, but only get me so far.  Sometimes you need a pro to get in there, find the problem, and fix it.  Nessuno did that - a few times.  Thanks, Nessuno 🙂🙏&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpjokerball&amp;diff=26396</id>
		<title>Gamehelpjokerball</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpjokerball&amp;diff=26396"/>
		<updated>2025-09-03T04:00:04Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: Mentioned Nessuno&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Jokerball is a violent soccer game. It involves strategy and luck.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The hexagonal board is walled off on the two left sides and the two right sides, and open on the two remaining, opposite sides. The open sides are the goals.&lt;br /&gt;
Men start out lined up in front of their own goals, and the ball is in in the center.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The men gradually move out and kill each other off, thereby opening holes in their defenses and making it possible for the ball to exit the board through a goal.&lt;br /&gt;
The purple die determines the distance a man must travel, but the player chooses his direction. The green die determines the direction the ball must travel, but the player chooses its distance.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
More specifically, a man makes a non-capturing move in one of the two forward directions in a straight line, along a path of contiguous, unoccupied cells.  It travels exactly the distance indicated by the purple die, unless blocked by a wall, the ball, or a friendly man, in which case it stops short, adjacent to the block.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A man makes a capturing move in any direction, in a straight line, along a path of contiguous, unoccupied cells, terminated by an enemy man, within the range indicated by the purple die.  The terminus man is captured by replacement.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After moving one of your men, you must move the ball, in the direction indicated by the green die, as described below, along a path of contiguous, unoccupied cells, any distance.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Green Die Indicated Ball Directions: 1 - backward left. 2 - left. 3 - forward left. 4 - forward right. 5 - right. 6 - backward right.  The directions are from the perspective of the player moving the ball.  The players&#039; directions are opposite from each other.  So for example, Red&#039;s 2 is the opposite direction of Blue&#039;s 2.  Red&#039;s 2 is the same direction as Blue&#039;s 5.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You win when the ball exits the board through the goal opposite of where you&#039;re sitting.  It doesn&#039;t matter who moves the ball off the board.  It&#039;s remotely possible that you would have to move the ball through your own goal and lose the game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can undo man selection by clicking any unhighlighted cell.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Jokerball is played in matches of from 1 to 21 games.  You choose how many at the outset.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A doubling cube can be employed in the match, as an option.  You can search online for Backgammon doubling cube for information about that.  But basically, if I offer you a double, and if you accept it, the game is now worth double the points.  If you don&#039;t accept it, you lose the game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Jokerball uses the Crawford rule. There&#039;s information about this online as well.  If a player is 1 point away from winning the match, the next game is a Crawford game, in which the doubling cube can&#039;t be offered.  There can be only one Crawford game per match.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The &amp;quot;dead cube&amp;quot; rule:  If the player owning the doubling cube could win the match by winning the current game, then she has no reason to offer a double, and is not allowed to offer a double.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Nessuno, a professional and highly skilled developer, has been invaluable in bringing you Jokerball.  Advice and suggestions are helpful, but only get me so far.  Sometimes you need a pro to get in there, find the problem, and fix it.  Nessuno did that - a few times.  Thanks, Nessuno 🙂🙏&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpjokerball&amp;diff=26312</id>
		<title>Gamehelpjokerball</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpjokerball&amp;diff=26312"/>
		<updated>2025-08-28T15:51:47Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Jokerball is a violent soccer game. It involves strategy and luck.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The hexagonal board is walled off on the two left sides and the two right sides, and open on the two remaining, opposite sides. The open sides are the goals.&lt;br /&gt;
Men start out lined up in front of their own goals, and the ball is in in the center.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The men gradually move out and kill each other off, thereby opening holes in their defenses and making it possible for the ball to exit the board through a goal.&lt;br /&gt;
The purple die determines the distance a man must travel, but the player chooses his direction. The green die determines the direction the ball must travel, but the player chooses its distance.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
More specifically, a man makes a non-capturing move in one of the two forward directions in a straight line, along a path of contiguous, unoccupied cells.  It travels exactly the distance indicated by the purple die, unless blocked by a wall, the ball, or a friendly man, in which case it stops short, adjacent to the block.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A man makes a capturing move in any direction, in a straight line, along a path of contiguous, unoccupied cells, terminated by an enemy man, within the range indicated by the purple die.  The terminus man is captured by replacement.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After moving one of your men, you must move the ball, in the direction indicated by the green die, as described below, along a path of contiguous, unoccupied cells, any distance.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Green Die Indicated Ball Directions: 1 - backward left. 2 - left. 3 - forward left. 4 - forward right. 5 - right. 6 - backward right.  The directions are from the perspective of the player moving the ball.  The players&#039; directions are opposite from each other.  So for example, Red&#039;s 2 is the opposite direction of Blue&#039;s 2.  Red&#039;s 2 is the same direction as Blue&#039;s 5.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You win when the ball exits the board through the goal opposite of where you&#039;re sitting.  It doesn&#039;t matter who moves the ball off the board.  It&#039;s remotely possible that you would have to move the ball through your own goal and lose the game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can undo man selection by clicking any unhighlighted cell.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Jokerball is played in matches of from 1 to 21 games.  You choose how many at the outset.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A doubling cube can be employed in the match, as an option.  You can search online for Backgammon doubling cube for information about that.  But basically, if I offer you a double, and you accept it, the game is now worth double the points.  If you don&#039;t accept it, you lose the game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Jokerball uses the Crawford rule. There&#039;s information about this online as well.  If a player is 1 point away from winning the match, the next game is a Crawford game, in which the doubling cube can&#039;t be offered.  There can be only one Crawford game per match.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The &amp;quot;dead cube&amp;quot; rule:  If the player owning the doubling cube could win the match by winning the current game, then she has no reason to offer a double, and is not allowed to offer a double.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpjokerball&amp;diff=26307</id>
		<title>Gamehelpjokerball</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpjokerball&amp;diff=26307"/>
		<updated>2025-08-28T14:53:25Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Jokerball is a violent soccer game. It involves strategy and luck.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The hexagonal board is walled off on the two left sides and the two right sides, and open on the two remaining, opposite sides. The open sides are the goals.&lt;br /&gt;
Men start out lined up in front of their own goals, and the ball is in in the center.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The men gradually move out and kill each other off, thereby opening holes in their defenses and making it possible for the ball to exit the board through a goal.&lt;br /&gt;
The purple die determines the distance a man must travel, but the player chooses his direction. The green die determines the direction the ball must travel, but the player chooses its distance.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
More specifically, a man makes a non-capturing move in one of the two forward directions in a straight line, along a path of contiguous, unoccupied cells.  It travels exactly the distance indicated by the purple die, unless blocked by a wall or the ball, in which case it stops short, adjacent to the block.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A man makes a capturing move in any direction, in a straight line, along a path of contiguous, unoccupied cells, terminated by an enemy man, within the range indicated by the purple die.  The terminus man is captured by replacement.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After moving one of your men, you must move the ball, in the direction indicated by the green die, as described below, along a path of contiguous, unoccupied cells, any distance.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Green Die Indicated Ball Directions: 1 - backward left. 2 - left. 3 - forward left. 4 - forward right. 5 - right. 6 - backward right.  The directions are from the perspective of the player moving the ball.  The players&#039; directions are opposite from each other.  So for example, Red&#039;s 2 is the opposite direction of Blue&#039;s 2.  Red&#039;s 2 is the same direction as Blue&#039;s 5.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You win when the ball exits the board through the goal opposite of where you&#039;re sitting.  It doesn&#039;t matter who moves the ball off the board.  It&#039;s remotely possible that you would have to move the ball through your own goal and lose the game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can undo man selection by clicking any unhighlighted cell.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Jokerball is played in matches of from 1 to 21 games.  You choose how many at the outset.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A doubling cube can be employed in the match, as an option.  You can search online for Backgammon doubling cube for information about that.  But basically, if I offer you a double, and you accept it, the game is now worth double the points.  If you don&#039;t accept it, you lose the game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Jokerball uses the Crawford rule. There&#039;s information about this online as well.  If a player is 1 point away from winning the match, the next game is a Crawford game, in which the doubling cube can&#039;t be offered.  There can be only one Crawford game per match.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The &amp;quot;dead cube&amp;quot; rule:  If the player owning the doubling cube could win the match by winning the current game, then she has no reason to offer a double, and is not allowed to offer a double.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpjokerball&amp;diff=26277</id>
		<title>Gamehelpjokerball</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpjokerball&amp;diff=26277"/>
		<updated>2025-08-24T18:12:54Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Jokerball is a violent soccer game. It involves strategy and luck.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The hexagonal board is walled off on the two left sides and the two right sides, and open on the two remaining, opposite sides. The open sides are the goals.&lt;br /&gt;
Men start out lined up in front of their own goals, and the ball is in in the center.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The men gradually move out and kill each other off, thereby opening holes in their defenses and making it possible for the ball to exit the board through a goal.&lt;br /&gt;
The purple die determines the distance a man must travel, but the player chooses his direction. The green die determines the direction the ball must travel, but the player chooses its distance.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
More specifically, a man makes a non-capturing move in one of the two forward directions in a straight line, along a path of contiguous, unoccupied cells.  It travels exactly the distance indicated by the purple die, unless blocked by a wall or the ball, in which case it stops short, adjacent to the block.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A man makes a capturing move in any direction, in a straight line, along a path of contiguous, unoccupied cells, terminated by a man of either color, within the range indicated by the purple die.  The terminus man is captured by replacement.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After moving one of your men, you must move the ball, in the direction indicated by the green die, as described below, along a path of contiguous, unoccupied cells, any distance.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Green Die Indicated Ball Directions: 1 - backward left. 2 - left. 3 - forward left. 4 - forward right. 5 - right. 6 - backward right.  The directions are from the perspective of the player moving the ball.  The players&#039; directions are opposite from each other.  So for example, Red&#039;s 2 is the opposite direction of Blue&#039;s 2.  Red&#039;s 2 is the same direction as Blue&#039;s 5.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You win when the ball exits the board through the goal opposite of where you&#039;re sitting.  It doesn&#039;t matter who moves the ball off the board.  It&#039;s remotely possible that you would have to move the ball through your own goal and lose the game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can undo man selection by clicking any unhighlighted cell.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Jokerball is played in matches of from 1 to 21 games.  You choose how many at the outset.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A doubling cube can be employed in the match, as an option.  You can search online for Backgammon doubling cube for information about that.  But basically, if I offer you a double, and you accept it, the game is now worth double the points.  If you don&#039;t accept it, you lose the game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Jokerball uses the Crawford rule. There&#039;s information about this online as well.  If a player is 1 point away from winning the match, the next game is a Crawford game, in which the doubling cube can&#039;t be offered.  There can be only one Crawford game per match.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The &amp;quot;dead cube&amp;quot; rule:  If the player owning the doubling cube could win the match by winning the current game, then she has no reason to offer a double, and is not allowed to offer a double.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpjokerball&amp;diff=26276</id>
		<title>Gamehelpjokerball</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpjokerball&amp;diff=26276"/>
		<updated>2025-08-24T18:10:46Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Jokerball is a violent soccer game. It involves strategy and luck.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The hexagonal board is walled off on the two left sides and the two right sides, and open on the two remaining, opposite sides. The open sides are the goals.&lt;br /&gt;
Men start out lined up in front of their own goals, and the ball is in in the center.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The men gradually move out and kill each other off, thereby opening holes in their defenses and making it possible for the ball to exit the board through a goal.&lt;br /&gt;
The purple die determines the distance a man must travel, but the player chooses his direction. The green die determines the direction the ball must travel, but the player chooses its distance.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
More specifically, a man makes a non-capturing move in one of the two forward directions in a straight line, along a path of contiguous, unoccupied cells.  It travels exactly the distance indicated by the purple die, unless blocked by a wall or the ball, in which case it stops short, adjacent to the block.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A man makes a capturing move in any direction, in a straight line, along a path of contiguous, unoccupied cells, terminated by a man of either color, within the range indicated by the purple die.  The terminus man is captured by replacement.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After moving one of your men, you must move the ball, in the direction indicated by the green die, as described below, along a path of contiguous, unoccupied cells, any distance.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Green Die Indicated Ball Directions: 1 - backward left. 2 - left. 3 - forward left. 4 - forward right. 5 - right. 6 - backward right.  The directions are from the perspective of the player moving the ball.  The players&#039; directions are opposite from each other.  So for example, Red&#039;s 2 is the opposite direction of Blue&#039;s 2.  Red&#039;s 2 is the same direction as Blue&#039;s 5.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You win when the ball exits the board through the goal opposite of where you&#039;re sitting.  It doesn&#039;t matter who moves the ball off the board.  It&#039;s remotely possible that you would have to move the ball through your own goal and lose the game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can undo man selection by clicking any unhighlighted cell.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Jokerball is played in matches of from 1 to 21 games.  You choose how many at the outset.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A doubling cube can be employed in the match, as an option.  You can search online for Backgammon doubling cube for information about that.  But basically, if I offer you a double, and you accept it, the game is now worth double the points.  If you don&#039;t accept it, you lose the game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Jokerball uses the Crawford rule. There&#039;s information about this online as well.  If a player is 1 point away from winning the match, the next game is a Crawford game, in which the doubling cube can&#039;t be offered.  There can be only one Crawford game per match.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The &amp;quot;dead cube&amp;quot; rule:  If the player owning the doubling cube could win the match by winning the current game, then she has no reason to double, and is not allowed to double.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpjokerball&amp;diff=26249</id>
		<title>Gamehelpjokerball</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpjokerball&amp;diff=26249"/>
		<updated>2025-08-18T21:08:02Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Jokerball is a violent soccer game. It involves strategy and luck.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The hexagonal board is walled off on the two left sides and the two right sides, and open on the two remaining, opposite sides. The open sides are the goals.&lt;br /&gt;
Men start out lined up in front of their own goals, and the ball is in in the center.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The men gradually move out and kill each other off, thereby opening holes in their defenses and making it possible for the ball to exit the board through a goal.&lt;br /&gt;
The purple die determines the distance a man must travel, but the player chooses his direction. The green die determines the direction the ball must travel, but the player chooses its distance.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
More specifically, a man makes a non-capturing move in one of the two forward directions in a straight line, along a path of contiguous, unoccupied cells.  It travels exactly the distance indicated by the purple die, unless blocked by a wall or the ball, in which case it stops short, adjacent to the block.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A man makes a capturing move in any direction, in a straight line, along a path of contiguous, unoccupied cells, terminated by a man of either color, within the range indicated by the purple die.  The terminus man is captured by replacement.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After moving one of your men, you must move the ball, in the direction indicated by the green die, as described below, along a path of contiguous, unoccupied cells, any distance.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Green Die Indicated Ball Directions: 1 - backward left. 2 - left. 3 - forward left. 4 - forward right. 5 - right. 6 - backward right.  The directions are from the perspective of the player moving the ball.  The players&#039; directions are opposite from each other.  So for example, Red&#039;s 2 is the opposite direction of Blue&#039;s 2.  Red&#039;s 2 is the same direction as Blue&#039;s 5.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You win when the ball exits the board through the goal opposite of where you&#039;re sitting.  It doesn&#039;t matter who moves the ball off the board.  It&#039;s remotely possible that you would have to move the ball through your own goal and lose the game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can undo man selection by clicking any unhighlighted cell.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Jokerball is played in matches of from 1 to 21 games.  You choose how many at the outset.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A doubling cube can be employed in the match, as an option.  You can search online for Backgammon doubling cube for information about that.  But basically, if I offer you a double, and you accept it, the game is now worth double the points.  If you don&#039;t accept it, you lose the game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Jokerball uses the Crawford rule. There&#039;s information about this online as well.  If a player is 1 point away from winning the match, the next game is a Crawford game, in which the doubling cube can&#039;t be offered.  There can be only one Crawford game per match.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpjokerball&amp;diff=26009</id>
		<title>Gamehelpjokerball</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpjokerball&amp;diff=26009"/>
		<updated>2025-08-03T15:56:34Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: minor typo&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Jokerball is a violent soccer game. It involves strategy and luck.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The hexagonal board is walled off on the two left sides and the two right sides, and open on the two remaining, opposite sides. The open sides are the goals.&lt;br /&gt;
Men start out lined up in front of their own goals, and the ball is in in the center.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The men gradually move out and kill each other off, thereby opening holes in their defenses and making it possible for the ball to exit the board through a goal.&lt;br /&gt;
The purple die determines the distance a man must travel, but the player chooses his direction. The green die determines the direction the ball must travel, but the player chooses its distance.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
More specifically, a man makes a non-capturing move in one of the two forward directions in a straight line, along a path of contiguous, unoccupied cells.  It travels exactly the distance indicated by the purple die, unless blocked by a wall or the ball, in which case it stops short, adjacent to the block.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A man makes a capturing move in any direction, in a straight line, along a path of contiguous, unoccupied cells, terminated by a man of either color, within the range indicated by the purple die.  The terminus man is captured by replacement.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After moving one of your men, you must move the ball, in the direction indicated by the green die, as described below, along a path of contiguous, unoccupied cells, any distance.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Green Die Indicated Ball Directions: 1 - backward left. 2 - left. 3 - forward left. 4 - forward right. 5 - right. 6 - backward right.  The directions are from the perspective of the player moving the ball.  The players&#039; directions are opposite from each other.  So for example, Red&#039;s 2 is the opposite direction of Blue&#039;s 2.  Red&#039;s 2 is the same direction as Blue&#039;s 5.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You win when the ball exits the board through the goal opposite of where you&#039;re sitting.  It doesn&#039;t matter who moves the ball off the board.  It&#039;s remotely possible that you would have to move the ball through your own goal and lose the game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can undo man selection by clicking any unhighlighted cell.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpjokerball&amp;diff=25954</id>
		<title>Gamehelpjokerball</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpjokerball&amp;diff=25954"/>
		<updated>2025-07-30T03:29:15Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Jokerball is a violent soccer game. It involves strategy and luck.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The hexagonal board is walled off on the two left sides and the two right sides, and open on the two remaining, opposite sides. The open sides are the goals.&lt;br /&gt;
Men start out lined up in front of their own goals, and the ball is in in the center.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The men gradually move out and kill each other off, thereby opening holes in their defenses and making it possible for the ball to exit the board through a goal.&lt;br /&gt;
The purple die determines the distance a man must travel, but the player chooses his direction. The green die determines the direction the ball must travel, but the player chooses its distance.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
More specifically, a man makes a non-capturing move in one of the two forward directions in a straight line, along a path of contiguous, unoccupied cells.  It travels exactly the distance indicated by the purple die, unless blocked by a wall or the ball, in which case it stops short, adjacent to the block.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A man makes a capturing move in any direction, in a straight line, along a path of contiguous, unoccupied cells, terminated by a man of either color, within the range indicated by the purple die.  The terminus man is captured by replacement.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After moving one of your men, you must move the ball, in the direction indicated by the green die, as described below, along a path of contiguous, unoccupied cells, any distance.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Green Die Indicated Ball Directions: 1 - backward left. 2 - left. 3 - forward left. 4 - forward right. 5 - right. 6 - backward right.  The directions are from the perspective of the player moving the ball.  The players&#039; directions are opposite from each other.  So for example, Red&#039;s 2 is the opposite direction of Blue&#039;s 2.  Red&#039;s 2 is the same direction as Blue&#039;s 5.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You win when the ball exits the board through the goal opposite of where you&#039;re sitting.  It doesn&#039;t matter who moves the ball off the board.  It&#039;s remotely possible that you would have to move the ball through your own goal and lose the game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can undo man selection by clicking on any unhighlighted cell.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpjokerball&amp;diff=25951</id>
		<title>Gamehelpjokerball</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpjokerball&amp;diff=25951"/>
		<updated>2025-07-29T17:42:08Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Jokerball is a violent soccer game. It involves strategy and luck.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The hexagonal board is walled off on the two left sides and the two right sides, and open on the two remaining, opposite sides. The open sides are the goals.&lt;br /&gt;
Men start out lined up in front of their own goals, and the ball is in in the center.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The men gradually move out and kill each other off, thereby opening holes in their defenses and making it possible for the ball to exit the board through a goal.&lt;br /&gt;
The purple die determines the distance a man must travel, but the player chooses his direction. The green die determines the direction the ball must travel, but the player chooses its distance.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
More specifically, a man makes a non-capturing move in one of the two forward directions in a straight line, along a path of contiguous, unoccupied cells.  It travels exactly the distance indicated by the purple die, unless blocked by a wall or the ball, in which case it stops short, adjacent to the block.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A man makes a capturing move in any direction, in a straight line, along a path of contiguous, unoccupied cells, terminated by a man of either color, within the range indicated by the purple die.  The terminus man is captured by replacement.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After moving one of your men, you must move the ball, in the direction indicated by the green die, as described below, along a path of contiguous, unoccupied cells, any distance.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Green Die Indicated Ball Directions: 1 - backward left. 2 - left. 3 - forward left. 4 - forward right. 5 - right. 6 - backward right.  The directions are from the perspective of the player moving the ball.  The players&#039; directions are opposite from each other.  So for example, Red&#039;s 2 is the opposite direction of Blue&#039;s 2.  Red&#039;s 2 is the same direction as Blue&#039;s 5.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You win when the ball exits the board through the goal opposite of where you&#039;re sitting.  It doesn&#039;t matter who moves the ball off the board.  It&#039;s remotely possible that you would have to move the ball through your own goal and lose the game.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpjokerball&amp;diff=25922</id>
		<title>Gamehelpjokerball</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpjokerball&amp;diff=25922"/>
		<updated>2025-07-28T13:32:38Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: Summary of Jokerball rules&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Jokerball is a violent soccer game.  It involves strategy and luck. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The hexagonal board is walled off on the two left sides and the two right sides, and open on the two remaining, opposite sides.  The open sides are the goals.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Men start out lined up in front of their own goals, and the ball is in in the center.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The men gradually move out and kill each other off, thereby opening holes in their defenses and making it possible for the ball to exit the board through a goal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The purple die determines the distance a man must travel, but the player chooses his direction.   The green die determines the direction the ball must travel, but the player chooses its distance.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpdiablo&amp;diff=17794</id>
		<title>Gamehelpdiablo</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpdiablo&amp;diff=17794"/>
		<updated>2023-08-15T05:02:39Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: Typo.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;DIABLO&lt;br /&gt;
by Mark Steere  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
INTRODUCTION  Diablo is a two-player game played with two dice and black and green checkers on a checkerboard of any even size. The number of faces on each of the dice is equal to half the length of the board. For example, if playing on a 6x6 board, the dice will be 3-sided. The board is initially filled with stacks of height one interspersed in a checkerboard pattern. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The two players, Black and Green, take turns rolling the dice and moving their own stacks. All moves are horizontal or vertical. Only entire stacks can be moved. Stacks cannot be subdivided. Black goes first.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
PLAYER TURN  After rolling the dice, you will take two actions.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Possible action combinations:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
a. Move two stacks (or the same stack twice), each move driven by a different die. The two moves can be of the same type or different types (subject to restrictions explained in ACTION TYPES).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
b. Move one stack horizontally or vertically, driven by one of the dice, and remove one of your checkers from the board (subject to restrictions explained in ACTION TYPES).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
c. Remove two of your checkers from the board (subject to restrictions explained in ACTION TYPES).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
ACTION TYPES&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
a. Merging move. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You may move one of your stacks onto another of your stacks at a distance indicated by one of the dice, merging the two stacks into one monocolored stack.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
b. Capturing move. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You may capture by replacement an enemy stack of equal or smaller size at a distance indicated by one of the dice.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
c. Move to unoccupied square. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You may move a stack to an unoccupied square at a distance indicated by one of the dice ONLY FOR ONE OF YOUR TWO ACTIONS. You can’t make two moves to unoccupied squares during your turn.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
d. Remove a checker.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At the outset of your turn, if you are able to make any kind of a move (merge, capture, or move to unoccupied square) you must do so. If not, you must remove any two of your checkers from the board, concluding your turn.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you began your turn with a move to an unoccupied square, then you must finish your turn with a merge or capture if you can. If not, you must remove one of your checkers, concluding your turn.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you began your turn with a merge or capture, then you must finish your turn with any kind of a move (merge, capture, or move to an unoccupied square) if you can. If not, you must remove one of your checkers, concluding your turn.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
BALANCING RULE  Black, on his first turn, plays only one of the two rolled dice, of his choosing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
OBJECT OF THE GAME  A player wins when all of his opponent’s checkers have been removed from the board.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpdiablo&amp;diff=17793</id>
		<title>Gamehelpdiablo</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpdiablo&amp;diff=17793"/>
		<updated>2023-08-15T05:02:09Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: Was a prior version of the rules.  Now current.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;DIABLO&lt;br /&gt;
by Mark Steere &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
INTRODUCTION  Diablo is a two-player game played with two dice and black and green checkers on a checkerboard of any even size. The number of faces on each of the dice is equal to half the length of the board. For example, if playing on a 6x6 board, the dice will be 3-sided. The board is initially filled with stacks of height one interspersed in a checkerboard pattern. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The two players, Black and Green, take turns rolling the dice and moving their own stacks. All moves are horizontal or vertical. Only entire stacks can be moved. Stacks cannot be subdivided. Black goes first.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
PLAYER TURN  After rolling the dice, you will take two actions.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Possible action combinations:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
a. Move two stacks (or the same stack twice), each move driven by a different die. The two moves can be of the same type or different types (subject to restrictions explained in ACTION TYPES).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
b. Move one stack horizontally or vertically, driven by one of the dice, and remove one of your checkers from the board (subject to restrictions explained in ACTION TYPES).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
c. Remove two of your checkers from the board (subject to restrictions explained in ACTION TYPES).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
ACTION TYPES&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
a. Merging move. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You may move one of your stacks onto another of your stacks at a distance indicated by one of the dice, merging the two stacks into one monocolored stack.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
b. Capturing move. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You may capture by replacement an enemy stack of equal or smaller size at a distance indicated by one of the dice.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
c. Move to unoccupied square. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You may move a stack to an unoccupied square at a distance indicated by one of the dice ONLY FOR ONE OF YOUR TWO ACTIONS. You can’t make two moves to unoccupied squares during your turn.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
d. Remove a checker.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At the outset of your turn, if you are able to make any kind of a move (merge, capture, or move to unoccupied square) you must do so. If not, you must remove any two of your checkers from the board, concluding your turn.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you began your turn with a move to an unoccupied square, then you must finish your turn with a merge or capture if you can. If not, you must remove one of your checkers, concluding your turn.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you began your turn with a merge or capture, then you must finish your turn with any kind of a move (merge, capture, or move to an unoccupied square) if you can. If not, you must remove one of your checkers, concluding your turn.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
BALANCING RULE  Black, on his first turn, plays only one of the two rolled dice, of his choosing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
OBJECT OF THE GAME  A player wins when all of his opponent’s checkers have been removed from the board.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpmodten&amp;diff=15961</id>
		<title>Gamehelpmodten</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpmodten&amp;diff=15961"/>
		<updated>2023-02-06T15:57:13Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: /* BGA DECKS */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== INTRODUCTION == &lt;br /&gt;
Mod Ten is a shedding card game for 2, 3, 4, 5, or 6 players.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== DECK ==&lt;br /&gt;
Either a single, or double stripped deck is used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In a single deck, the following cards are removed&lt;br /&gt;
* All games: 5s, 10s, and face cards.&lt;br /&gt;
* 3/5/6 player games, additionally: The Ace and 9 of Spades.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In a double deck (BGA default) deck, the following cards are removed&lt;br /&gt;
* All games: 10s and face cards.&lt;br /&gt;
* 3/5/6 players games, additionally: The Aces and 9s of Spades, Clubs and Diamonds&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== BGA DECKS ==&lt;br /&gt;
N players, deck&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2 - single w/o 5s,10s, face cards. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3 - single w/o 5s, 10s, faces; Ace, 9 of Spades.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
4 - double w/o 10s, faces.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
5, 6 - double w/o 10s, faces; Ace, 9 of S, C, D.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== RANKS == &lt;br /&gt;
High to low: 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, Ace. Suits are irrelevant.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== PLAY ==&lt;br /&gt;
The player to the dealers left leads by placing any card from his hand face up on the table. &lt;br /&gt;
Continuing clockwise, players must follow suit if possible. If not, their turn is skipped. If your played card brings the sum of table cards to a multiple of 10, you collect all the table cards, place them face down on the discard pile, and lead another card of any suit.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== OBJECT OF THE GAME == &lt;br /&gt;
The first player to play their last card wins the game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Dealer Selection ==&lt;br /&gt;
The dealer of the first hand of the game is selected at random, in subsequent hands it will be the player&lt;br /&gt;
to the right of the last player to shed a card in the previous hand.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpmodten&amp;diff=15960</id>
		<title>Gamehelpmodten</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpmodten&amp;diff=15960"/>
		<updated>2023-02-06T15:56:36Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: /* BGA DECKS */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== INTRODUCTION == &lt;br /&gt;
Mod Ten is a shedding card game for 2, 3, 4, 5, or 6 players.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== DECK ==&lt;br /&gt;
Either a single, or double stripped deck is used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In a single deck, the following cards are removed&lt;br /&gt;
* All games: 5s, 10s, and face cards.&lt;br /&gt;
* 3/5/6 player games, additionally: The Ace and 9 of Spades.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In a double deck (BGA default) deck, the following cards are removed&lt;br /&gt;
* All games: 10s and face cards.&lt;br /&gt;
* 3/5/6 players games, additionally: The Aces and 9s of Spades, Clubs and Diamonds&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== BGA DECKS ==&lt;br /&gt;
# of players, deck&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
2 - single w/o 5s,10s, face cards. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3 - single w/o 5s, 10s, faces; Ace, 9 of Spades.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
4 - double w/o 10s, faces.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
5, 6 - double w/o 10s, faces; Ace, 9 of S, C, D.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== RANKS == &lt;br /&gt;
High to low: 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, Ace. Suits are irrelevant.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== PLAY ==&lt;br /&gt;
The player to the dealers left leads by placing any card from his hand face up on the table. &lt;br /&gt;
Continuing clockwise, players must follow suit if possible. If not, their turn is skipped. If your played card brings the sum of table cards to a multiple of 10, you collect all the table cards, place them face down on the discard pile, and lead another card of any suit.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== OBJECT OF THE GAME == &lt;br /&gt;
The first player to play their last card wins the game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Dealer Selection ==&lt;br /&gt;
The dealer of the first hand of the game is selected at random, in subsequent hands it will be the player&lt;br /&gt;
to the right of the last player to shed a card in the previous hand.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpmodten&amp;diff=15959</id>
		<title>Gamehelpmodten</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpmodten&amp;diff=15959"/>
		<updated>2023-02-06T15:55:34Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: /* BGA DECKS */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== INTRODUCTION == &lt;br /&gt;
Mod Ten is a shedding card game for 2, 3, 4, 5, or 6 players.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== DECK ==&lt;br /&gt;
Either a single, or double stripped deck is used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In a single deck, the following cards are removed&lt;br /&gt;
* All games: 5s, 10s, and face cards.&lt;br /&gt;
* 3/5/6 player games, additionally: The Ace and 9 of Spades.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In a double deck (BGA default) deck, the following cards are removed&lt;br /&gt;
* All games: 10s and face cards.&lt;br /&gt;
* 3/5/6 players games, additionally: The Aces and 9s of Spades, Clubs and Diamonds&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== BGA DECKS ==&lt;br /&gt;
2 - single w/o 5s,10s, face cards. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3 - single w/o 5s, 10s, faces; Ace, 9 of Spades.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
4 - double w/o 10s, faces.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
5, 6 - double w/o 10s, faces; Ace, 9 of S, C, D.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== RANKS == &lt;br /&gt;
High to low: 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, Ace. Suits are irrelevant.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== PLAY ==&lt;br /&gt;
The player to the dealers left leads by placing any card from his hand face up on the table. &lt;br /&gt;
Continuing clockwise, players must follow suit if possible. If not, their turn is skipped. If your played card brings the sum of table cards to a multiple of 10, you collect all the table cards, place them face down on the discard pile, and lead another card of any suit.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== OBJECT OF THE GAME == &lt;br /&gt;
The first player to play their last card wins the game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Dealer Selection ==&lt;br /&gt;
The dealer of the first hand of the game is selected at random, in subsequent hands it will be the player&lt;br /&gt;
to the right of the last player to shed a card in the previous hand.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpmodten&amp;diff=15958</id>
		<title>Gamehelpmodten</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpmodten&amp;diff=15958"/>
		<updated>2023-02-06T15:55:01Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: /* BGA DECKS */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== INTRODUCTION == &lt;br /&gt;
Mod Ten is a shedding card game for 2, 3, 4, 5, or 6 players.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== DECK ==&lt;br /&gt;
Either a single, or double stripped deck is used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In a single deck, the following cards are removed&lt;br /&gt;
* All games: 5s, 10s, and face cards.&lt;br /&gt;
* 3/5/6 player games, additionally: The Ace and 9 of Spades.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In a double deck (BGA default) deck, the following cards are removed&lt;br /&gt;
* All games: 10s and face cards.&lt;br /&gt;
* 3/5/6 players games, additionally: The Aces and 9s of Spades, Clubs and Diamonds&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== BGA DECKS ==&lt;br /&gt;
2 - single w/o 5s,10s, face cards. &lt;br /&gt;
3 - single w/o 5s, 10s, faces; Ace, 9 of Spades.&lt;br /&gt;
4 - double w/o 10s, faces.&lt;br /&gt;
5, 6 - double w/o 10s, faces; Ace, 9 of S, C, D.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== RANKS == &lt;br /&gt;
High to low: 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, Ace. Suits are irrelevant.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== PLAY ==&lt;br /&gt;
The player to the dealers left leads by placing any card from his hand face up on the table. &lt;br /&gt;
Continuing clockwise, players must follow suit if possible. If not, their turn is skipped. If your played card brings the sum of table cards to a multiple of 10, you collect all the table cards, place them face down on the discard pile, and lead another card of any suit.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== OBJECT OF THE GAME == &lt;br /&gt;
The first player to play their last card wins the game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Dealer Selection ==&lt;br /&gt;
The dealer of the first hand of the game is selected at random, in subsequent hands it will be the player&lt;br /&gt;
to the right of the last player to shed a card in the previous hand.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpmodten&amp;diff=15957</id>
		<title>Gamehelpmodten</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpmodten&amp;diff=15957"/>
		<updated>2023-02-06T15:54:36Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: /* BGA DECKS */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== INTRODUCTION == &lt;br /&gt;
Mod Ten is a shedding card game for 2, 3, 4, 5, or 6 players.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== DECK ==&lt;br /&gt;
Either a single, or double stripped deck is used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In a single deck, the following cards are removed&lt;br /&gt;
* All games: 5s, 10s, and face cards.&lt;br /&gt;
* 3/5/6 player games, additionally: The Ace and 9 of Spades.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In a double deck (BGA default) deck, the following cards are removed&lt;br /&gt;
* All games: 10s and face cards.&lt;br /&gt;
* 3/5/6 players games, additionally: The Aces and 9s of Spades, Clubs and Diamonds&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== BGA DECKS ==&lt;br /&gt;
2 - single w/o 5s,10s, face cards. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
3 - single w/o 5s, 10s, faces; Ace, 9 of Spades.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
4 - double w/o 10s, faces.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
5, 6 - double w/o 10s, faces; Ace, 9 of S, C, D.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== RANKS == &lt;br /&gt;
High to low: 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, Ace. Suits are irrelevant.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== PLAY ==&lt;br /&gt;
The player to the dealers left leads by placing any card from his hand face up on the table. &lt;br /&gt;
Continuing clockwise, players must follow suit if possible. If not, their turn is skipped. If your played card brings the sum of table cards to a multiple of 10, you collect all the table cards, place them face down on the discard pile, and lead another card of any suit.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== OBJECT OF THE GAME == &lt;br /&gt;
The first player to play their last card wins the game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Dealer Selection ==&lt;br /&gt;
The dealer of the first hand of the game is selected at random, in subsequent hands it will be the player&lt;br /&gt;
to the right of the last player to shed a card in the previous hand.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpmodten&amp;diff=15956</id>
		<title>Gamehelpmodten</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpmodten&amp;diff=15956"/>
		<updated>2023-02-06T15:52:57Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: /* BGA DECKS */&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== INTRODUCTION == &lt;br /&gt;
Mod Ten is a shedding card game for 2, 3, 4, 5, or 6 players.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== DECK ==&lt;br /&gt;
Either a single, or double stripped deck is used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In a single deck, the following cards are removed&lt;br /&gt;
* All games: 5s, 10s, and face cards.&lt;br /&gt;
* 3/5/6 player games, additionally: The Ace and 9 of Spades.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In a double deck (BGA default) deck, the following cards are removed&lt;br /&gt;
* All games: 10s and face cards.&lt;br /&gt;
* 3/5/6 players games, additionally: The Aces and 9s of Spades, Clubs and Diamonds&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== BGA DECKS ==&lt;br /&gt;
2 - single w/o 5s,10s, face cards &lt;br /&gt;
3 - single w/o 5s, 10s, faces; Ace, 9 of Spades&lt;br /&gt;
4 - double w/o 10s, faces&lt;br /&gt;
5, 6 - double w/o 10s, faces; Ace, 9 of S, C, D&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== RANKS == &lt;br /&gt;
High to low: 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, Ace. Suits are irrelevant.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== PLAY ==&lt;br /&gt;
The player to the dealers left leads by placing any card from his hand face up on the table. &lt;br /&gt;
Continuing clockwise, players must follow suit if possible. If not, their turn is skipped. If your played card brings the sum of table cards to a multiple of 10, you collect all the table cards, place them face down on the discard pile, and lead another card of any suit.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== OBJECT OF THE GAME == &lt;br /&gt;
The first player to play their last card wins the game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Dealer Selection ==&lt;br /&gt;
The dealer of the first hand of the game is selected at random, in subsequent hands it will be the player&lt;br /&gt;
to the right of the last player to shed a card in the previous hand.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpmodten&amp;diff=15954</id>
		<title>Gamehelpmodten</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpmodten&amp;diff=15954"/>
		<updated>2023-02-06T15:49:57Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: BGA Decks&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== INTRODUCTION == &lt;br /&gt;
Mod Ten is a shedding card game for 2, 3, 4, 5, or 6 players.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== DECK ==&lt;br /&gt;
Either a single, or double stripped deck is used.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In a single deck, the following cards are removed&lt;br /&gt;
* All games: 5s, 10s, and face cards.&lt;br /&gt;
* 3/5/6 player games, additionally: The Ace and 9 of Spades.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
In a double deck (BGA default) deck, the following cards are removed&lt;br /&gt;
* All games: 10s and face cards.&lt;br /&gt;
* 3/5/6 players games, additionally: The Aces and 9s of Spades, Clubs and Diamonds&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== BGA DECKS ==&lt;br /&gt;
# of players    Deck&lt;br /&gt;
------------    -----&lt;br /&gt;
2 - single w/o 5s,10s, face cards &lt;br /&gt;
3 - single w/o 5s, 10s, faces; Ace, 9 of Spades&lt;br /&gt;
4 - double w/o 10s, faces&lt;br /&gt;
5, 6 - double w/o 10s, faces; Ace, 9 of S, C, D&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== RANKS == &lt;br /&gt;
High to low: 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, Ace. Suits are irrelevant.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== PLAY ==&lt;br /&gt;
The player to the dealers left leads by placing any card from his hand face up on the table. &lt;br /&gt;
Continuing clockwise, players must follow suit if possible. If not, their turn is skipped. If your played card brings the sum of table cards to a multiple of 10, you collect all the table cards, place them face down on the discard pile, and lead another card of any suit.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== OBJECT OF THE GAME == &lt;br /&gt;
The first player to play their last card wins the game.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Dealer Selection ==&lt;br /&gt;
The dealer of the first hand of the game is selected at random, in subsequent hands it will be the player&lt;br /&gt;
to the right of the last player to shed a card in the previous hand.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpkonane&amp;diff=14308</id>
		<title>Gamehelpkonane</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpkonane&amp;diff=14308"/>
		<updated>2022-08-11T21:25:38Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: It&amp;#039;s loses.  Not looses.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;== Goal of the game ==&lt;br /&gt;
To leave your opponent without any possible move.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Setup ==&lt;br /&gt;
A square game board made up of rows and columns is initially completely filled with stones, alternating between black and white pieces.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Black moves first, by taking off one of his stones. He may only remove a stone from the middle of the board (the centre or a piece adjacent to the centre) or from one of the corners. White removes one of his stones that is adjacent orthogonal to the empty square created by Black. There should now be two empty squares next to each other.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Player turn ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
From there on, players take turns making a move. To move, one jump one own stone over an opponent&#039;s stone into an empty slot right beyond. Jumps can only be orthogonal, &#039;&#039;&#039;not diagonal&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A player may make multiple jumps (thence making multiple captures) with the same stone in a turn, but only if all the humps are in the same direction (no turns). Making more than one jump (when possible) is optional, but the first jump (and capture) is mandatory. Pieces that are jumped are removed from the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Game end ==&lt;br /&gt;
When one player is unable to jump during his turn loses the game and the opponent wins.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpfractal&amp;diff=13450</id>
		<title>Gamehelpfractal</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpfractal&amp;diff=13450"/>
		<updated>2022-06-04T02:45:17Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: Added a description.  Was just a link to rule sheet.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Fractal is a variant of Hex. As in Hex, you must connect opposite sides of the board of your color with a path of tiles of your color. The difference is the unusual tessellation of the Fractal board. The smaller cells near the center de-emphasise the importance of claiming cells near the center.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
https://marksteeregames.com/Fractal_rules.pdf&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpredstone&amp;diff=13449</id>
		<title>Gamehelpredstone</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpredstone&amp;diff=13449"/>
		<updated>2022-06-04T02:43:00Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: Added description.  Was just a link to rule sheet.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Redstone is a variation of Go in which red stones are used to capture. Red stones are permanent. They cannot themselves be captured.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Redstone is a game of annihilation. The goal is to eliminate all enemy stones from the board. Passing is not allowed. Redstone is naturally finite. So there&#039;s no need for ko.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A capturing placement results in one or more groups, of either or both colors, having no liberties. Such a placement can only be made with a red stone. Conversely, a red stone can only be placed if it bounds (completely deprives of liberties) one or more groups of either or both colors. Self capture is allowed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When multiple groups without liberties result from a placement, all such groups are removed immediately following said placement, regardless of the groups&#039; colors. Unlike Go, if you unbound your own temporarily bounded group by removing a neighboring enemy group, you must still remove your own temporarily bounded group.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Since Redstone is a game of annihilation, not of point score, Go’s komi is not needed. Redstone uses the pie rule for balance.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
http://www.marksteeregames.com/Redstone_rules.pdf&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpcephalopod&amp;diff=13448</id>
		<title>Gamehelpcephalopod</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpcephalopod&amp;diff=13448"/>
		<updated>2022-06-04T02:39:38Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: Cephalopod - Rules of the Game&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Players take turns adding dice of their own color to the board, one die per turn. A newly placed die must show a one, unless its a capturing placement, in which case it must show a two or higher.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a die is placed horizontally or vertically adjacent to two dice, and the sum of the pip counts - number of spots on the top surface of a die - on those two adjacent dice is six or less, then the currently played die must show the pip sum of its two adjacent dice, and the player must remove those two adjacent dice from the board immediately, while it is still his turn.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If a die is placed adjacent to three or four dice, and if two, three, or four of its adjacent dice have a pip sum of six or less, then two, three, or four of those adjacent dice (whose pip sum is six or less) must be removed, and the played die must show the pip sum of the removed dice.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Captures are mandatory only when placing a die onto a square from which captures are possible.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A player can make a non-capturing placement simply by adding a die to a square from which no captures are possible. A non-capturing placement must show a single pip.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpicebreaker&amp;diff=13447</id>
		<title>Gamehelpicebreaker</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpicebreaker&amp;diff=13447"/>
		<updated>2022-06-04T02:36:56Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: /* End of the Game */  clarification&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;==Setup==&lt;br /&gt;
* The game is played on a hexagonal grid with side length 5.&lt;br /&gt;
* Each player has 3 ships, which are placed at corners. The rest are icebergs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Gameplay==&lt;br /&gt;
* On your turn, you must move one of your ships to an adjacent space without a ship.&lt;br /&gt;
* You must move it closer to one of the nearest iceberg(s) in the progress.&lt;br /&gt;
* If there is an iceberg in the space, you capture it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==End of the Game==&lt;br /&gt;
* If you capture the majority of icebergs (for example, 28 icebergs on a size 5 board), you win!&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpsilo&amp;diff=13446</id>
		<title>Gamehelpsilo</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpsilo&amp;diff=13446"/>
		<updated>2022-06-04T02:32:30Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: Silo - Rules of the Game&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Move your highest checker within a stack to your right one column, carrying with it any enemy checkers that may be stacked above it. Place your checker on top of the stack in that column, if there is a stack in that column. If there’s no stack in that column, just place your checker on the board. Object: Be the first to get all of your checkers into a contiguous sub-stack. In other words, a pure sub-stack of only your checkers. Enemy checkers may be above and/or below your sub-stack, but not inside it.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpoust&amp;diff=13445</id>
		<title>Gamehelpoust</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpoust&amp;diff=13445"/>
		<updated>2022-06-04T02:23:41Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: Oust - Rules of the Game&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;The goal in Oust is to completely clear the board of enemy stones, to oust your opponent - a paradox since the board is empty to begin with. Your opponent has to add at least one stone before you can capture all of his stones.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Non-capturing placements: A non-capturing placement either forms no connections (adjacencies) with any stones, or forms one or more connections only with enemy stones. A noncapturing placement does not form any connections with stones of its own color.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Capturing placements: When you place a stone which forms one or more connections with your own groups, you create a new, larger group of your own stones. You can only make such a placement if said new group will have one or more connections with enemy groups upon its creation and if all said enemy groups are smaller than said new group. Upon making such a placement, all said enemy groups are removed from the board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Multiple placements per turn: After capturing one or more enemy groups and while it is still your turn, you must continue to add stones until you make a non-capturing placement, at which time your turn is concluded.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_dodo&amp;diff=8832</id>
		<title>Tips dodo</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_dodo&amp;diff=8832"/>
		<updated>2021-07-13T16:18:56Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: Misere Dodo&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Misere Dodo: I recently added a misere option (opposite object of the game).  As hard as Dodo is, Misere Dodo is even harder. You want to remain free and stop your opponent, but to do that, you might have to open a channels to free him temporarily. Paradoxical.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Update 1: Nick Bentley&#039;s Take On Dodo:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;1. move straight forward, rather than obliquely forward, especially for stones that start in the middle of your initial formation&lt;br /&gt;
2. It&#039;s better to move up the center of the board and make your opponent flank around you, than the reverse.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;If so, it&#039;s possible that the dominant strategy is:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;1. move the pieces at the center of your formation straight forward, starting with the ones at the front of your formation&lt;br /&gt;
2. then moving the pieces behind them straight forward as well.&lt;br /&gt;
3. If the other player doesn&#039;t adopt this strategy, you win.&lt;br /&gt;
4. If the other player does adopt this strategy, all the pieces will first gather at the center of the board, at which point there will be cold and fairly obvious a &#039;who has to move obliquely first&#039; battle, and the outcome of that determines who wins. prob P1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;This is just an operational hypothesis. Not convinced it&#039;s right. Just putting it out there for study.&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another player confirmed that this strategy &amp;quot;absolutely crushes&amp;quot; humans and AI alike. I tried it and it didn&#039;t work for me at all. Maybe I&#039;m doing it wrong, but I still can&#039;t beat any AIs. Only thing I can think of to explain the discrepancy is that my computer is faster and does more in a second than the tester&#039;s computer does in 10 seconds. Hard to imagine though - this crappy Dell I bought in Mongolia 2 years ago is superior to anything. But, if your computer is 12 years old, that could explain it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The notion of moving up the center of the board and making your opponent &amp;quot;flank around you&amp;quot; is perfectly lovely... &lt;br /&gt;
assuming your opponent is the accommodating sort and willingly opens up a channel in the center for you. There&#039;s no &lt;br /&gt;
way to force your way up the center, that I&#039;m aware of.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I&#039;m not really fit to comment on strategy, but that being said... The AIs always beat me and they always make plenty of oblique moves. Logically, if you&#039;re using Nick&#039;s &amp;quot;tight formation&amp;quot; strategy by advancing your front row of checkers directly forward, then nestling your next row in right behind them, etc., you&#039;d do better to hang back (by making oblique moves) and let the enemy come to you. You can keep your formation tighter if you&#039;re not on the march. But then if the opposing army approaches with an open channel, your &amp;quot;tight formation&amp;quot; won&#039;t be tight for long. I think there is something to it - keeping your army tight, as one of many possible tactics, but it&#039;s a long way from a game buster. [Thinking out loud here. Nick stimulated my feeble thought process.] There may be a tactic of rushing some of your checkers forward, trapping a couple of enemy checkers, and later freeing them at the last minute. It&#039;s the yin and yang aspect of Dodo. It may be a game of strategy, counter-strategy, counter-counter strategy...&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I&#039;ve tried Nick&#039;s strategy several times as Player 1 and Player 2, using different Ludii AIs set at 1 second. I haven&#039;t won yet. Maybe the guy who&#039;s &amp;quot;absolutely crushing&amp;quot; everything is using a vintage Atari.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Update 2: People are questioning Nick&#039;s strategy. 1. &amp;quot;I&#039;m obviously not understanding the strategy, because I am unable to [win].&amp;quot; 2. &amp;quot;The strategy seems to fail against Ai Ai (UCT based AI).&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;The Crusher&amp;quot;: &amp;quot;I tried again today and the strategy was much less effective. [...] I think I may have just gotten lucky playing against the AI yesterday.&amp;quot; Yes, luck combined with (I believe) running the AI on an antique computer with 10 seconds thinking time. I&#039;ve never been able to win, with or without Nick&#039;s strategy, running AIs at 1/10 second. Of course I&#039;m a dodo of a player, so that has to be considered.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The good news: Nick started a conversation and got me and others thinking about Dodo strategy. Hopefully a talented player will take an interest and clue the rest of us in. I think Dodo is a complex superposition of parity battles - a juxtaposition of interdependent flows - a quicksand beach. Charging ahead and butting horns isn&#039;t by itself a strategy. There has to be interplay between charging and stalling. Sometimes you can hold back and wait until your opponent has no choice but to block you. An oblique move only carries your checker half as far as a directly forward move, so a strategic oblique move or two can have a big impact on timing. And it&#039;s all about timing. There will be opportunities throughout play to toss a wrench into the gear train and win. Spotting those opportunities is essential. I can spot them - after they happen and it&#039;s too late. I gotta turn that around and see them ahead of time.&lt;br /&gt;
------------------------------------------------------------------------&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The consensus on Dodo is that it&#039;s hard to know what to do.  For most of us, Dodo strategy will be elusive. Hopefully someone will write a strategy guide. One guy beat an AI app, so I know it’s possible to have a clue.  I can never beat AI, even set at 1/10 second thinking time.  It always stalemates at least one step ahead of me, like magic.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I called it Dodo because the rules are very easy to learn.  It didn&#039;t occur to me that it would be a hard game to play.  Maybe I should have called it Einstein.  Someone suggested Cascade, which would have been a good name.  It&#039;s like two way pachinko.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the time being, Dodo seems to be a good game for children, and a good game for gifted players.  There&#039;s not a lot of middle ground right now, though a strategy guide might open that up a little.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There&#039;s yin and yang in Dodo.   If you rush forward to blockade yourself, then in doing so you also blockade your opponent.  If you open a channel for your opponent to pass through, then via a cascading effect, he opens channels for you.  This results in a lot of close finishes.  It may be unsettling for some, though it’s not a flaw.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I&#039;m a decidedly below average player of games, but after playing Dodo 50 times or so, I feel like I&#039;m starting to develop a vague inkling of what&#039;s going on.  With familiarity, it becomes easier to see further ahead, and to at least attempt strategy.  As with quicksand though, strategies can sink and resurface.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One analytical description of Dodo (by Mike Zapala, the same guy who beat the AI):  &amp;quot;Hex4 Dodo is &#039;bigger&#039; than Checkers in terms of board size, army size, state space, game length, branching factor and game tree complexity. Indeed, its game tree complexity is comparable to International Draughts.&amp;quot; It’s a big game on a small board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Dodo is kind of an essential game.  As with all games, the ability to peer ahead into possible futures is important.   But without known tactics or strategy, lookahead is all you have.  Not to say that Dodo is opaque.  It&#039;s all there in plain sight right in front of you.  It&#039;s just a lot to process. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Dodo is a very fair game.  Player 1 won 50.5% of 10,000 random playouts.  Hex was clocked at 52.45%.  Most games have significantly higher than 50.5% random play, move order advantage. Especially opposing army games.  I&#039;ve had to scrap a number of such designs because an overwhelming first move advantage quickly developed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So there&#039;s no need for the pie rule in Dodo (Player 2 having the option of switching colors on his first turn).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I attribute Dodo&#039;s fairness to the wide range of possible total moves per game.  There can be no passthrough, or complete passthrough, or anything in between.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Dodo isn&#039;t vulnerable to mirroring (either by Player 2, or by Player 1 moving to center and then rotationally mirroring Player 2).  And it doesn&#039;t seem to be vulnerable to any other sort of tricks.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
All in all, Dodo is a high quality game, though that won&#039;t necessarily translate into popularity.  Let&#039;s wait and see.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I&#039;m fairly confident that someone much smarter than I will make headway in Dodo and develop concrete tactics and strategy.  Stay tuned.  I will post any such developments here.  Dodo was only born in May, and it&#039;s gonna take a little time.  It won&#039;t be like Reversi where sides are good and corners are even better.  It&#039;ll be more involved than that.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_dodo&amp;diff=8669</id>
		<title>Tips dodo</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_dodo&amp;diff=8669"/>
		<updated>2021-07-02T05:16:19Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: Minor edit&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Update 1: Nick Bentley&#039;s Take On Dodo:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;1. move straight forward, rather than obliquely forward, especially for stones that start in the middle of your initial formation&lt;br /&gt;
2. It&#039;s better to move up the center of the board and make your opponent flank around you, than the reverse.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;If so, it&#039;s possible that the dominant strategy is:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;1. move the pieces at the center of your formation straight forward, starting with the ones at the front of your formation&lt;br /&gt;
2. then moving the pieces behind them straight forward as well.&lt;br /&gt;
3. If the other player doesn&#039;t adopt this strategy, you win.&lt;br /&gt;
4. If the other player does adopt this strategy, all the pieces will first gather at the center of the board, at which point there will be cold and fairly obvious a &#039;who has to move obliquely first&#039; battle, and the outcome of that determines who wins. prob P1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;This is just an operational hypothesis. Not convinced it&#039;s right. Just putting it out there for study.&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another player confirmed that this strategy &amp;quot;absolutely crushes&amp;quot; humans and AI alike. I tried it and it didn&#039;t work for me at all. Maybe I&#039;m doing it wrong, but I still can&#039;t beat any AIs. Only thing I can think of to explain the discrepancy is that my computer is faster and does more in a second than the tester&#039;s computer does in 10 seconds. Hard to imagine though - this crappy Dell I bought in Mongolia 2 years ago is superior to anything. But, if your computer is 12 years old, that could explain it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The notion of moving up the center of the board and making your opponent &amp;quot;flank around you&amp;quot; is perfectly lovely... &lt;br /&gt;
assuming your opponent is the accommodating sort and willingly opens up a channel in the center for you. There&#039;s no &lt;br /&gt;
way to force your way up the center, that I&#039;m aware of.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I&#039;m not really fit to comment on strategy, but that being said... The AIs always beat me and they always make plenty of oblique moves. Logically, if you&#039;re using Nick&#039;s &amp;quot;tight formation&amp;quot; strategy by advancing your front row of checkers directly forward, then nestling your next row in right behind them, etc., you&#039;d do better to hang back (by making oblique moves) and let the enemy come to you. You can keep your formation tighter if you&#039;re not on the march. But then if the opposing army approaches with an open channel, your &amp;quot;tight formation&amp;quot; won&#039;t be tight for long. I think there is something to it - keeping your army tight, as one of many possible tactics, but it&#039;s a long way from a game buster. [Thinking out loud here. Nick stimulated my feeble thought process.] There may be a tactic of rushing some of your checkers forward, trapping a couple of enemy checkers, and later freeing them at the last minute. It&#039;s the yin and yang aspect of Dodo. It may be a game of strategy, counter-strategy, counter-counter strategy...&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I&#039;ve tried Nick&#039;s strategy several times as Player 1 and Player 2, using different Ludii AIs set at 1 second. I haven&#039;t won yet. Maybe the guy who&#039;s &amp;quot;absolutely crushing&amp;quot; everything is using a vintage Atari.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Update 2: People are questioning Nick&#039;s strategy. 1. &amp;quot;I&#039;m obviously not understanding the strategy, because I am unable to [win].&amp;quot; 2. &amp;quot;The strategy seems to fail against Ai Ai (UCT based AI).&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;The Crusher&amp;quot;: &amp;quot;I tried again today and the strategy was much less effective. [...] I think I may have just gotten lucky playing against the AI yesterday.&amp;quot; Yes, luck combined with (I believe) running the AI on an antique computer with 10 seconds thinking time. I&#039;ve never been able to win, with or without Nick&#039;s strategy, running AIs at 1/10 second. Of course I&#039;m a dodo of a player, so that has to be considered.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The good news: Nick started a conversation and got me and others thinking about Dodo strategy. Hopefully a talented player will take an interest and clue the rest of us in. I think Dodo is a complex superposition of parity battles - a juxtaposition of interdependent flows - a quicksand beach. Charging ahead and butting horns isn&#039;t by itself a strategy. There has to be interplay between charging and stalling. Sometimes you can hold back and wait until your opponent has no choice but to block you. An oblique move only carries your checker half as far as a directly forward move, so a strategic oblique move or two can have a big impact on timing. And it&#039;s all about timing. There will be opportunities throughout play to toss a wrench into the gear train and win. Spotting those opportunities is essential. I can spot them - after they happen and it&#039;s too late. I gotta turn that around and see them ahead of time.&lt;br /&gt;
------------------------------------------------------------------------&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The consensus on Dodo is that it&#039;s hard to know what to do.  For most of us, Dodo strategy will be elusive. Hopefully someone will write a strategy guide. One guy beat an AI app, so I know it’s possible to have a clue.  I can never beat AI, even set at 1/10 second thinking time.  It always stalemates at least one step ahead of me, like magic.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I called it Dodo because the rules are very easy to learn.  It didn&#039;t occur to me that it would be a hard game to play.  Maybe I should have called it Einstein.  Someone suggested Cascade, which would have been a good name.  It&#039;s like two way pachinko.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the time being, Dodo seems to be a good game for children, and a good game for gifted players.  There&#039;s not a lot of middle ground right now, though a strategy guide might open that up a little.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There&#039;s yin and yang in Dodo.   If you rush forward to blockade yourself, then in doing so you also blockade your opponent.  If you open a channel for your opponent to pass through, then via a cascading effect, he opens channels for you.  This results in a lot of close finishes.  It may be unsettling for some, though it’s not a flaw.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I&#039;m a decidedly below average player of games, but after playing Dodo 50 times or so, I feel like I&#039;m starting to develop a vague inkling of what&#039;s going on.  With familiarity, it becomes easier to see further ahead, and to at least attempt strategy.  As with quicksand though, strategies can sink and resurface.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One analytical description of Dodo (by Mike Zapala, the same guy who beat the AI):  &amp;quot;Hex4 Dodo is &#039;bigger&#039; than Checkers in terms of board size, army size, state space, game length, branching factor and game tree complexity. Indeed, its game tree complexity is comparable to International Draughts.&amp;quot; It’s a big game on a small board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Dodo is kind of an essential game.  As with all games, the ability to peer ahead into possible futures is important.   But without known tactics or strategy, lookahead is all you have.  Not to say that Dodo is opaque.  It&#039;s all there in plain sight right in front of you.  It&#039;s just a lot to process. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Dodo is a very fair game.  Player 1 won 50.5% of 10,000 random playouts.  Hex was clocked at 52.45%.  Most games have significantly higher than 50.5% random play, move order advantage. Especially opposing army games.  I&#039;ve had to scrap a number of such designs because an overwhelming first move advantage quickly developed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So there&#039;s no need for the pie rule in Dodo (Player 2 having the option of switching colors on his first turn).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I attribute Dodo&#039;s fairness to the wide range of possible total moves per game.  There can be no passthrough, or complete passthrough, or anything in between.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Dodo isn&#039;t vulnerable to mirroring (either by Player 2, or by Player 1 moving to center and then rotationally mirroring Player 2).  And it doesn&#039;t seem to be vulnerable to any other sort of tricks.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
All in all, Dodo is a high quality game, though that won&#039;t necessarily translate into popularity.  Let&#039;s wait and see.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I&#039;m fairly confident that someone much smarter than I will make headway in Dodo and develop concrete tactics and strategy.  Stay tuned.  I will post any such developments here.  Dodo was only born in May, and it&#039;s gonna take a little time.  It won&#039;t be like Reversi where sides are good and corners are even better.  It&#039;ll be more involved than that.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_dodo&amp;diff=8668</id>
		<title>Tips dodo</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_dodo&amp;diff=8668"/>
		<updated>2021-07-02T02:16:17Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: Minor edit&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Update 1: Nick Bentley&#039;s Take On Dodo:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;1. move straight forward, rather than obliquely forward, especially for stones that start in the middle of your initial formation&lt;br /&gt;
2. It&#039;s better to move up the center of the board and make your opponent flank around you, than the reverse.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;If so, it&#039;s possible that the dominant strategy is:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;1. move the pieces at the center of your formation straight forward, starting with the ones at the front of your formation&lt;br /&gt;
2. then moving the pieces behind them straight forward as well.&lt;br /&gt;
3. If the other player doesn&#039;t adopt this strategy, you win.&lt;br /&gt;
4. If the other player does adopt this strategy, all the pieces will first gather at the center of the board, at which point there will be cold and fairly obvious a &#039;who has to move obliquely first&#039; battle, and the outcome of that determines who wins. prob P1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;This is just an operational hypothesis. Not convinced it&#039;s right. Just putting it out there for study.&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another player confirmed that this strategy &amp;quot;absolutely crushes&amp;quot; humans and AI alike. I tried it and it didn&#039;t work for me at all. Maybe I&#039;m doing it wrong, but I still can&#039;t beat any AIs. Only thing I can think of to explain the discrepancy is that my computer is faster and does more in a second than the tester&#039;s computer does in 10 seconds. Hard to imagine though - this crappy Dell I bought in Mongolia 2 years ago is superior to anything. But, if your computer is 12 years old, that could explain it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The notion of moving up the center of the board and making your opponent &amp;quot;flank around you&amp;quot; is perfectly lovely... &lt;br /&gt;
assuming your opponent is the accommodating sort and willingly opens up a channel in the center for you. There&#039;s no &lt;br /&gt;
way to force your way up the center, that I&#039;m aware of.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I&#039;m not really fit to comment on strategy, but that being said... The AIs always beat me and they always make plenty of oblique moves. Logically, if you&#039;re using Nick&#039;s &amp;quot;tight formation&amp;quot; strategy by advancing your front row of checkers directly forward, then nestling your next row in right behind them, etc., you&#039;d do better to hang back (by making oblique moves) and let the enemy come to you. You can keep your formation tighter if you&#039;re not on the march. But then if the opposing army approaches with an open channel, your &amp;quot;tight formation&amp;quot; won&#039;t be tight for long. I think there is something to it - keeping your army tight, as one of many possible tactics, but it&#039;s a long way from a game buster. [Thinking out loud here. Nick stimulated my feeble thought process.] There may be a tactic of rushing some of your checkers forward, trapping a couple of enemy checkers, and later freeing them at the last minute. It&#039;s the yin and yang aspect of Dodo. It may be a game of strategy, counter-strategy, counter-counter strategy...&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I&#039;ve tried Nick&#039;s strategy several times as Player 1 and Player 2, using different Ludii AIs set at 1 second. I haven&#039;t won yet. Maybe the guy who&#039;s &amp;quot;absolutely crushing&amp;quot; everything is using a vintage Atari.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Update 2: People are questioning Nick&#039;s strategy. 1. &amp;quot;I&#039;m obviously not understanding the strategy, because I am unable to [win].&amp;quot; 2. &amp;quot;The strategy seems to fail against Ai Ai (UCT based AI).&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;The Crusher&amp;quot;: &amp;quot;I tried again today and the strategy was much less effective. [...] I think I may have just gotten lucky playing against the AI yesterday.&amp;quot; Yes, luck combined with (I believe) running the AI on an antique computer with 10 seconds thinking time. I&#039;ve never been able to win, with or without Nick&#039;s strategy, running AIs at 1/10 second. Of course I&#039;m a dodo of a player, so that has to be considered.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The good news: Nick started a conversation and got me and others thinking about Dodo strategy. Hopefully a talented player will take an interest and clue the rest of us in. I think Dodo is a complex superposition of parity battles - a juxtaposition of interdependent flows - a quicksand beach. Barging ahead and butting horns isn&#039;t by itself a strategy. There has to be interplay between barging and stalling. Sometimes you can hold back and wait until your opponent has no choice but to block you. An oblique move only carries your checker half as far as a directly forward move, so a well timed oblique move or two can have a big impact on timing. And it&#039;s all about timing. There will be opportunities throughout play to toss a wrench into the gear train and win. Spotting those opportunities is essential. I can spot them - after they happen and it&#039;s too late. I gotta turn that around and see them ahead of time.&lt;br /&gt;
------------------------------------------------------------------------&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The consensus on Dodo is that it&#039;s hard to know what to do.  For most of us, Dodo strategy will be elusive. Hopefully someone will write a strategy guide. One guy beat an AI app, so I know it’s possible to have a clue.  I can never beat AI, even set at 1/10 second thinking time.  It always stalemates at least one step ahead of me, like magic.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I called it Dodo because the rules are very easy to learn.  It didn&#039;t occur to me that it would be a hard game to play.  Maybe I should have called it Einstein.  Someone suggested Cascade, which would have been a good name.  It&#039;s like two way pachinko.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the time being, Dodo seems to be a good game for children, and a good game for gifted players.  There&#039;s not a lot of middle ground right now, though a strategy guide might open that up a little.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There&#039;s yin and yang in Dodo.   If you rush forward to blockade yourself, then in doing so you also blockade your opponent.  If you open a channel for your opponent to pass through, then via a cascading effect, he opens channels for you.  This results in a lot of close finishes.  It may be unsettling for some, though it’s not a flaw.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I&#039;m a decidedly below average player of games, but after playing Dodo 50 times or so, I feel like I&#039;m starting to develop a vague inkling of what&#039;s going on.  With familiarity, it becomes easier to see further ahead, and to at least attempt strategy.  As with quicksand though, strategies can sink and resurface.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One analytical description of Dodo (by Mike Zapala, the same guy who beat the AI):  &amp;quot;Hex4 Dodo is &#039;bigger&#039; than Checkers in terms of board size, army size, state space, game length, branching factor and game tree complexity. Indeed, its game tree complexity is comparable to International Draughts.&amp;quot; It’s a big game on a small board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Dodo is kind of an essential game.  As with all games, the ability to peer ahead into possible futures is important.   But without known tactics or strategy, lookahead is all you have.  Not to say that Dodo is opaque.  It&#039;s all there in plain sight right in front of you.  It&#039;s just a lot to process. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Dodo is a very fair game.  Player 1 won 50.5% of 10,000 random playouts.  Hex was clocked at 52.45%.  Most games have significantly higher than 50.5% random play, move order advantage. Especially opposing army games.  I&#039;ve had to scrap a number of such designs because an overwhelming first move advantage quickly developed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So there&#039;s no need for the pie rule in Dodo (Player 2 having the option of switching colors on his first turn).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I attribute Dodo&#039;s fairness to the wide range of possible total moves per game.  There can be no passthrough, or complete passthrough, or anything in between.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Dodo isn&#039;t vulnerable to mirroring (either by Player 2, or by Player 1 moving to center and then rotationally mirroring Player 2).  And it doesn&#039;t seem to be vulnerable to any other sort of tricks.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
All in all, Dodo is a high quality game, though that won&#039;t necessarily translate into popularity.  Let&#039;s wait and see.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I&#039;m fairly confident that someone much smarter than I will make headway in Dodo and develop concrete tactics and strategy.  Stay tuned.  I will post any such developments here.  Dodo was only born in May, and it&#039;s gonna take a little time.  It won&#039;t be like Reversi where sides are good and corners are even better.  It&#039;ll be more involved than that.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_dodo&amp;diff=8662</id>
		<title>Tips dodo</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_dodo&amp;diff=8662"/>
		<updated>2021-07-01T12:58:43Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: Minor edit&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Update: Nick Bentley&#039;s Take On Dodo:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;1. move straight forward, rather than obliquely forward, especially for stones that start in the middle of your initial formation&lt;br /&gt;
2. It&#039;s better to move up the center of the board and make your opponent flank around you, than the reverse.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;If so, it&#039;s possible that the dominant strategy is:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;1. move the pieces at the center of your formation straight forward, starting with the ones at the front of your formation&lt;br /&gt;
2. then moving the pieces behind them straight forward as well.&lt;br /&gt;
3. If the other player doesn&#039;t adopt this strategy, you win.&lt;br /&gt;
4. If the other player does adopt this strategy, all the pieces will first gather at the center of the board, at which point there will be cold and fairly obvious a &#039;who has to move obliquely first&#039; battle, and the outcome of that determines who wins. prob P1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;This is just an operational hypothesis. Not convinced it&#039;s right. Just putting it out there for study.&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another player confirmed that this strategy &amp;quot;absolutely crushes&amp;quot; humans and AI alike. I tried it and it didn&#039;t work for me at all. Maybe I&#039;m doing it wrong, but I still can&#039;t beat any AIs. Only thing I can think of to explain the discrepancy is that my computer is faster and does more in a second than the tester&#039;s computer does in 10 seconds. Hard to imagine though - this crappy Dell I bought in Mongolia 2 years ago is superior to anything. But, if your computer is 12 years old, that could explain it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The notion of moving up the center of the board and making your opponent &amp;quot;flank around you&amp;quot; is perfectly lovely... &lt;br /&gt;
assuming your opponent is the accommodating sort and willingly opens up a channel in the center for you. There&#039;s no &lt;br /&gt;
way to force your way up the center, that I&#039;m aware of.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I&#039;m not really fit to comment on strategy, but that being said... The AIs always beat me and they always make plenty of oblique moves. Logically, if you&#039;re using Nick&#039;s &amp;quot;tight formation&amp;quot; strategy by advancing your front row of checkers directly forward, then nestling your next row in right behind them, etc., you&#039;d do better to hang back (by making oblique moves) and let the enemy come to you. You can keep your formation tighter if you&#039;re not on the march. But then if the opposing army approaches with an open channel, your &amp;quot;tight formation&amp;quot; won&#039;t be tight for long. I think there is something to it - keeping your army tight, as one of many possible tactics, but it&#039;s a long way from a game buster. [Thinking out loud here. Nick stimulated my feeble thought process.] There may be a tactic of rushing some of your checkers forward, trapping a couple of enemy checkers, and later freeing them at the last minute. It&#039;s the yin and yang aspect of Dodo. It may be a game of strategy, counter-strategy, counter-counter strategy...&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I&#039;ve tried Nick&#039;s strategy several times as Player 1 and Player 2, using different Ludii AIs set at 1 second. I haven&#039;t won yet. Maybe the guy who&#039;s &amp;quot;absolutely crushing&amp;quot; everything is using a vintage Atari.&lt;br /&gt;
------------------------------------------------------------------------&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The consensus on Dodo is that it&#039;s hard to know what to do.  For most of us, Dodo strategy will be elusive. Hopefully someone will write a strategy guide. One guy beat an AI app, so I know it’s possible to have a clue.  I can never beat AI, even set at 1/10 second thinking time.  It always stalemates at least one step ahead of me, like magic.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I called it Dodo because the rules are very easy to learn.  It didn&#039;t occur to me that it would be a hard game to play.  Maybe I should have called it Einstein.  Someone suggested Cascade, which would have been a good name.  It&#039;s like two way pachinko.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the time being, Dodo seems to be a good game for children, and a good game for gifted players.  There&#039;s not a lot of middle ground right now, though a strategy guide might open that up a little.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There&#039;s yin and yang in Dodo.   If you rush forward to blockade yourself, then in doing so you also blockade your opponent.  If you open a channel for your opponent to pass through, then via a cascading effect, he opens channels for you.  This results in a lot of close finishes.  It may be unsettling for some, though it’s not a flaw.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I&#039;m a decidedly below average player of games, but after playing Dodo 50 times or so, I feel like I&#039;m starting to develop a vague inkling of what&#039;s going on.  With familiarity, it becomes easier to see further ahead, and to at least attempt strategy.  As with quicksand though, strategies can sink and resurface.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One analytical description of Dodo (by Mike Zapala, the same guy who beat the AI):  &amp;quot;Hex4 Dodo is &#039;bigger&#039; than Checkers in terms of board size, army size, state space, game length, branching factor and game tree complexity. Indeed, its game tree complexity is comparable to International Draughts.&amp;quot; It’s a big game on a small board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Dodo is kind of an essential game.  As with all games, the ability to peer ahead into possible futures is important.   But without known tactics or strategy, lookahead is all you have.  Not to say that Dodo is opaque.  It&#039;s all there in plain sight right in front of you.  It&#039;s just a lot to process. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Dodo is a very fair game.  Player 1 won 50.5% of 10,000 random playouts.  Hex was clocked at 52.45%.  Most games have significantly higher than 50.5% random play, move order advantage. Especially opposing army games.  I&#039;ve had to scrap a number of such designs because an overwhelming first move advantage quickly developed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So there&#039;s no need for the pie rule in Dodo (Player 2 having the option of switching colors on his first turn).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I attribute Dodo&#039;s fairness to the wide range of possible total moves per game.  There can be no passthrough, or complete passthrough, or anything in between.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Dodo isn&#039;t vulnerable to mirroring (either by Player 2, or by Player 1 moving to center and then rotationally mirroring Player 2).  And it doesn&#039;t seem to be vulnerable to any other sort of tricks.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
All in all, Dodo is a high quality game, though that won&#039;t necessarily translate into popularity.  Let&#039;s wait and see.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I&#039;m fairly confident that someone much smarter than I will make headway in Dodo and develop concrete tactics and strategy.  Stay tuned.  I will post any such developments here.  Dodo was only born in May, and it&#039;s gonna take a little time.  It won&#039;t be like Reversi where sides are good and corners are even better.  It&#039;ll be more involved than that.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_dodo&amp;diff=8661</id>
		<title>Tips dodo</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_dodo&amp;diff=8661"/>
		<updated>2021-07-01T12:51:03Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: Minor edit&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Update: Nick Bentley&#039;s Take On Dodo:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;1. move straight forward, rather than obliquely forward, especially for stones that start in the middle of your initial formation&lt;br /&gt;
2. It&#039;s better to move up the center of the board and make your opponent flank around you, than the reverse.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;If so, it&#039;s possible that the dominant strategy is:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;1. move the pieces at the center of your formation straight forward, starting with the ones at the front of your formation&lt;br /&gt;
2. then moving the pieces behind them straight forward as well.&lt;br /&gt;
3. If the other player doesn&#039;t adopt this strategy, you win.&lt;br /&gt;
4. If the other player does adopt this strategy, all the pieces will first gather at the center of the board, at which point there will be cold and fairly obvious a &#039;who has to move obliquely first&#039; battle, and the outcome of that determines who wins. prob P1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;This is just an operational hypothesis. Not convinced it&#039;s right. Just putting it out there for study.&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another player confirmed that this strategy &amp;quot;absolutely crushes&amp;quot; humans and AI alike. I tried it and it didn&#039;t work for me at all. Maybe I&#039;m doing it wrong, but I still can&#039;t beat any AIs. Only thing I can think of to explain the discrepancy is that my computer is faster and does more in a second than the tester&#039;s computer does in 10 seconds. Hard to imagine though - this crappy Dell I bought in Mongolia 2 years ago is superior to anything. But, if your computer is 12 years old, that could explain it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The notion of moving up the center of the board and making your opponent &amp;quot;flank around you&amp;quot; is perfectly lovely... &lt;br /&gt;
assuming your opponent is the accommodating sort and willingly opens up a channel in the center for you. There&#039;s no &lt;br /&gt;
way to force your way up the center, that I&#039;m aware of.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I&#039;m not really fit to comment on strategy, but that being said... The AIs always beat me and they always make plenty of oblique moves. Logically, if you&#039;re using Nick&#039;s &amp;quot;tight formation&amp;quot; strategy by advancing your front row of checkers directly forward, then hugging your next row in right behind them, etc., you&#039;d do better to hang back (by making oblique moves) and let the enemy come to you. You can keep your formation tighter if you&#039;re not on the march. But then if the opposing army approaches with an open channel, your &amp;quot;tight formation&amp;quot; won&#039;t be tight for long. I think there is something to it - keeping your army tight, as one of many possible tactics, but it&#039;s a long way from a game buster. [Thinking out loud here. Nick stimulated my feeble thought process.] There may be a tactic of rushing some of your checkers forward, trapping a couple of enemy checkers, and later freeing them at the last minute. It&#039;s the yin and yang aspect of Dodo. It may be a game of strategy, counter-strategy, counter-counter strategy...&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I&#039;ve tried Nick&#039;s strategy several times as Player 1 and Player 2, using different Ludii AIs set at 1 second. I haven&#039;t won yet. Maybe the guy who&#039;s &amp;quot;absolutely crushing&amp;quot; everything is using a vintage Atari.&lt;br /&gt;
------------------------------------------------------------------------&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The consensus on Dodo is that it&#039;s hard to know what to do.  For most of us, Dodo strategy will be elusive. Hopefully someone will write a strategy guide. One guy beat an AI app, so I know it’s possible to have a clue.  I can never beat AI, even set at 1/10 second thinking time.  It always stalemates at least one step ahead of me, like magic.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I called it Dodo because the rules are very easy to learn.  It didn&#039;t occur to me that it would be a hard game to play.  Maybe I should have called it Einstein.  Someone suggested Cascade, which would have been a good name.  It&#039;s like two way pachinko.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the time being, Dodo seems to be a good game for children, and a good game for gifted players.  There&#039;s not a lot of middle ground right now, though a strategy guide might open that up a little.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There&#039;s yin and yang in Dodo.   If you rush forward to blockade yourself, then in doing so you also blockade your opponent.  If you open a channel for your opponent to pass through, then via a cascading effect, he opens channels for you.  This results in a lot of close finishes.  It may be unsettling for some, though it’s not a flaw.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I&#039;m a decidedly below average player of games, but after playing Dodo 50 times or so, I feel like I&#039;m starting to develop a vague inkling of what&#039;s going on.  With familiarity, it becomes easier to see further ahead, and to at least attempt strategy.  As with quicksand though, strategies can sink and resurface.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One analytical description of Dodo (by Mike Zapala, the same guy who beat the AI):  &amp;quot;Hex4 Dodo is &#039;bigger&#039; than Checkers in terms of board size, army size, state space, game length, branching factor and game tree complexity. Indeed, its game tree complexity is comparable to International Draughts.&amp;quot; It’s a big game on a small board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Dodo is kind of an essential game.  As with all games, the ability to peer ahead into possible futures is important.   But without known tactics or strategy, lookahead is all you have.  Not to say that Dodo is opaque.  It&#039;s all there in plain sight right in front of you.  It&#039;s just a lot to process. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Dodo is a very fair game.  Player 1 won 50.5% of 10,000 random playouts.  Hex was clocked at 52.45%.  Most games have significantly higher than 50.5% random play, move order advantage. Especially opposing army games.  I&#039;ve had to scrap a number of such designs because an overwhelming first move advantage quickly developed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So there&#039;s no need for the pie rule in Dodo (Player 2 having the option of switching colors on his first turn).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I attribute Dodo&#039;s fairness to the wide range of possible total moves per game.  There can be no passthrough, or complete passthrough, or anything in between.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Dodo isn&#039;t vulnerable to mirroring (either by Player 2, or by Player 1 moving to center and then rotationally mirroring Player 2).  And it doesn&#039;t seem to be vulnerable to any other sort of tricks.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
All in all, Dodo is a high quality game, though that won&#039;t necessarily translate into popularity.  Let&#039;s wait and see.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I&#039;m fairly confident that someone much smarter than I will make headway in Dodo and develop concrete tactics and strategy.  Stay tuned.  I will post any such developments here.  Dodo was only born in May, and it&#039;s gonna take a little time.  It won&#039;t be like Reversi where sides are good and corners are even better.  It&#039;ll be more involved than that.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_dodo&amp;diff=8657</id>
		<title>Tips dodo</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_dodo&amp;diff=8657"/>
		<updated>2021-07-01T05:49:14Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: Minor edit&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Update: Nick Bentley&#039;s Take On Dodo:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;1. move straight forward, rather than obliquely forward, especially for stones that start in the middle of your initial formation&lt;br /&gt;
2. It&#039;s better to move up the center of the board and make your opponent flank around you, than the reverse.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;If so, it&#039;s possible that the dominant strategy is:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;1. move the pieces at the center of your formation straight forward, starting with the ones at the front of your formation&lt;br /&gt;
2. then moving the pieces behind them straight forward as well.&lt;br /&gt;
3. If the other player doesn&#039;t adopt this strategy, you win.&lt;br /&gt;
4. If the other player does adopt this strategy, all the pieces will first gather at the center of the board, at which point there will be cold and fairly obvious a &#039;who has to move obliquely first&#039; battle, and the outcome of that determines who wins. prob P1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;This is just an operational hypothesis. Not convinced it&#039;s right. Just putting it out there for study.&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another player confirmed that this strategy &amp;quot;absolutely crushes&amp;quot; humans and AI alike. I tried it and it didn&#039;t work for me at all. Maybe I&#039;m doing it wrong, but I still can&#039;t beat any AIs. Only thing I can think of to explain the discrepancy is that my computer is faster and does more in a second than the tester&#039;s computer does in 10 seconds. Hard to imagine though - this crappy Dell I bought in Mongolia 2 years ago is superior to anything. But, if your computer is 12 years old, that could explain it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I&#039;m not really fit to comment on strategy, but that being said... The AIs always beat me and they always make plenty of oblique moves. Logically, if you&#039;re using Nick&#039;s &amp;quot;tight formation&amp;quot; strategy by advancing your front row of checkers directly forward, then hugging your next row in right behind them, etc., you&#039;d do better to hang back (by making oblique moves) and let the enemy come to you. You can keep your formation tighter if you&#039;re not on the march. But then if the opposing army approaches with an open channel, your &amp;quot;tight formation&amp;quot; won&#039;t be tight for long. I think there is something to it - keeping your army tight, as one of many possible tactics, but it&#039;s a long way from a game buster. [Thinking out loud here. Nick stimulated my feeble thought process.] There may be a tactic of rushing some of your checkers forward, trapping a couple of enemy checkers, and later freeing them at the last minute. It&#039;s the yin and yang aspect of Dodo. It may be a game of strategy, counter-strategy, counter-counter strategy...&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I&#039;ve tried Nick&#039;s strategy several times as Player 1 and Player 2, using different Ludii AIs set at 1 second. I haven&#039;t won yet. Maybe the guy who&#039;s &amp;quot;absolutely crushing&amp;quot; everything is using a vintage Atari.&lt;br /&gt;
------------------------------------------------------------------------&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The consensus on Dodo is that it&#039;s hard to know what to do.  For most of us, Dodo strategy will be elusive. Hopefully someone will write a strategy guide. One guy beat an AI app, so I know it’s possible to have a clue.  I can never beat AI, even set at 1/10 second thinking time.  It always stalemates at least one step ahead of me, like magic.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I called it Dodo because the rules are very easy to learn.  It didn&#039;t occur to me that it would be a hard game to play.  Maybe I should have called it Einstein.  Someone suggested Cascade, which would have been a good name.  It&#039;s like two way pachinko.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the time being, Dodo seems to be a good game for children, and a good game for gifted players.  There&#039;s not a lot of middle ground right now, though a strategy guide might open that up a little.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There&#039;s yin and yang in Dodo.   If you rush forward to blockade yourself, then in doing so you also blockade your opponent.  If you open a channel for your opponent to pass through, then via a cascading effect, he opens channels for you.  This results in a lot of close finishes.  It may be unsettling for some, though it’s not a flaw.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I&#039;m a decidedly below average player of games, but after playing Dodo 50 times or so, I feel like I&#039;m starting to develop a vague inkling of what&#039;s going on.  With familiarity, it becomes easier to see further ahead, and to at least attempt strategy.  As with quicksand though, strategies can sink and resurface.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One analytical description of Dodo (by Mike Zapala, the same guy who beat the AI):  &amp;quot;Hex4 Dodo is &#039;bigger&#039; than Checkers in terms of board size, army size, state space, game length, branching factor and game tree complexity. Indeed, its game tree complexity is comparable to International Draughts.&amp;quot; It’s a big game on a small board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Dodo is kind of an essential game.  As with all games, the ability to peer ahead into possible futures is important.   But without known tactics or strategy, lookahead is all you have.  Not to say that Dodo is opaque.  It&#039;s all there in plain sight right in front of you.  It&#039;s just a lot to process. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Dodo is a very fair game.  Player 1 won 50.5% of 10,000 random playouts.  Hex was clocked at 52.45%.  Most games have significantly higher than 50.5% random play, move order advantage. Especially opposing army games.  I&#039;ve had to scrap a number of such designs because an overwhelming first move advantage quickly developed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So there&#039;s no need for the pie rule in Dodo (Player 2 having the option of switching colors on his first turn).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I attribute Dodo&#039;s fairness to the wide range of possible total moves per game.  There can be no passthrough, or complete passthrough, or anything in between.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Dodo isn&#039;t vulnerable to mirroring (either by Player 2, or by Player 1 moving to center and then rotationally mirroring Player 2).  And it doesn&#039;t seem to be vulnerable to any other sort of tricks.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
All in all, Dodo is a high quality game, though that won&#039;t necessarily translate into popularity.  Let&#039;s wait and see.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I&#039;m fairly confident that someone much smarter than I will make headway in Dodo and develop concrete tactics and strategy.  Stay tuned.  I will post any such developments here.  Dodo was only born in May, and it&#039;s gonna take a little time.  It won&#039;t be like Reversi where sides are good and corners are even better.  It&#039;ll be more involved than that.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_dodo&amp;diff=8656</id>
		<title>Tips dodo</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_dodo&amp;diff=8656"/>
		<updated>2021-07-01T04:35:31Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: Minor edit&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Update: Nick Bentley&#039;s Take On Dodo:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;1. move straight forward, rather than obliquely forward, especially for stones that start in the middle of your initial formation&lt;br /&gt;
2. It&#039;s better to move up the center of the board and make your opponent flank around you, than the reverse.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;If so, it&#039;s possible that the dominant strategy is:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;1. move the pieces at the center of your formation straight forward, starting with the ones at the front of your formation&lt;br /&gt;
2. then moving the pieces behind them straight forward as well.&lt;br /&gt;
3. If the other player doesn&#039;t adopt this strategy, you win.&lt;br /&gt;
4. If the other player does adopt this strategy, all the pieces will first gather at the center of the board, at which point there will be cold and fairly obvious a &#039;who has to move obliquely first&#039; battle, and the outcome of that determines who wins. prob P1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;This is just an operational hypothesis. Not convinced it&#039;s right. Just putting it out there for study.&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another player confirmed that this strategy &amp;quot;absolutely crushes&amp;quot; humans and AI alike. I tried it and it didn&#039;t work for me at all. Maybe I&#039;m doing it wrong, but I still can&#039;t beat any AIs. Only thing I can think of to explain the discrepancy is that my computer is faster and does more in a second than the tester&#039;s computer does in 10 seconds. Hard to imagine though - this crappy Dell I bought in Mongolia 2 years ago is superior to anything. But, if your computer is 12 years old, that could explain it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I&#039;m not really fit to comment on strategy, but that being said... The AIs always beat me and they always make plenty of oblique moves. Logically, if you&#039;re using Nick&#039;s &amp;quot;tight formation&amp;quot; strategy by advancing your front row of checkers directly forward, then hugging your next row in right behind them, etc., you&#039;d do better to hang back (by making oblique moves) and let the enemy come to you. You can keep your formation tighter if you&#039;re not on the march. But then if the opposing army approaches with an open channel, your &amp;quot;tight formation&amp;quot; won&#039;t be tight for long. I think there is something to it - keeping your army tight, as one of many possible tactics, but it&#039;s a long way from a game buster. [Thinking out loud here. Nick stimulated my feeble thought process.] There may be a tactic of rushing some of your checkers forward, trapping a couple of enemy checkers, and later freeing them at the last minute. It&#039;s the yin and yang aspect of Dodo. It may be a game of strategy, counter-strategy, counter-counter strategy...&lt;br /&gt;
------------------------------------------------------------------------&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The consensus on Dodo is that it&#039;s hard to know what to do.  For most of us, Dodo strategy will be elusive. Hopefully someone will write a strategy guide. One guy beat an AI app, so I know it’s possible to have a clue.  I can never beat AI, even set at 1/10 second thinking time.  It always stalemates at least one step ahead of me, like magic.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I called it Dodo because the rules are very easy to learn.  It didn&#039;t occur to me that it would be a hard game to play.  Maybe I should have called it Einstein.  Someone suggested Cascade, which would have been a good name.  It&#039;s like two way pachinko.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the time being, Dodo seems to be a good game for children, and a good game for gifted players.  There&#039;s not a lot of middle ground right now, though a strategy guide might open that up a little.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There&#039;s yin and yang in Dodo.   If you rush forward to blockade yourself, then in doing so you also blockade your opponent.  If you open a channel for your opponent to pass through, then via a cascading effect, he opens channels for you.  This results in a lot of close finishes.  It may be unsettling for some, though it’s not a flaw.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I&#039;m a decidedly below average player of games, but after playing Dodo 50 times or so, I feel like I&#039;m starting to develop a vague inkling of what&#039;s going on.  With familiarity, it becomes easier to see further ahead, and to at least attempt strategy.  As with quicksand though, strategies can sink and resurface.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One analytical description of Dodo (by Mike Zapala, the same guy who beat the AI):  &amp;quot;Hex4 Dodo is &#039;bigger&#039; than Checkers in terms of board size, army size, state space, game length, branching factor and game tree complexity. Indeed, its game tree complexity is comparable to International Draughts.&amp;quot; It’s a big game on a small board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Dodo is kind of an essential game.  As with all games, the ability to peer ahead into possible futures is important.   But without known tactics or strategy, lookahead is all you have.  Not to say that Dodo is opaque.  It&#039;s all there in plain sight right in front of you.  It&#039;s just a lot to process. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Dodo is a very fair game.  Player 1 won 50.5% of 10,000 random playouts.  Hex was clocked at 52.45%.  Most games have significantly higher than 50.5% random play, move order advantage. Especially opposing army games.  I&#039;ve had to scrap a number of such designs because an overwhelming first move advantage quickly developed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So there&#039;s no need for the pie rule in Dodo (Player 2 having the option of switching colors on his first turn).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I attribute Dodo&#039;s fairness to the wide range of possible total moves per game.  There can be no passthrough, or complete passthrough, or anything in between.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Dodo isn&#039;t vulnerable to mirroring (either by Player 2, or by Player 1 moving to center and then rotationally mirroring Player 2).  And it doesn&#039;t seem to be vulnerable to any other sort of tricks.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
All in all, Dodo is a high quality game, though that won&#039;t necessarily translate into popularity.  Let&#039;s wait and see.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I&#039;m fairly confident that someone much smarter than I will make headway in Dodo and develop concrete tactics and strategy.  Stay tuned.  I will post any such developments here.  Dodo was only born in May, and it&#039;s gonna take a little time.  It won&#039;t be like Reversi where sides are good and corners are even better.  It&#039;ll be more involved than that.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_dodo&amp;diff=8655</id>
		<title>Tips dodo</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_dodo&amp;diff=8655"/>
		<updated>2021-07-01T04:34:43Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: Minor edit&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Update: Nick Bentley&#039;s Take On Dodo:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;1. move straight forward, rather than obliquely forward, especially for stones that start in the middle of your initial formation&lt;br /&gt;
2. It&#039;s better to move up the center of the board and make your opponent flank around you, than the reverse.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;If so, it&#039;s possible that the dominant strategy is:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;1. move the pieces at the center of your formation straight forward, starting with the ones at the front of your formation&lt;br /&gt;
2. then moving the pieces behind them straight forward as well.&lt;br /&gt;
3. If the other player doesn&#039;t adopt this strategy, you win.&lt;br /&gt;
4. If the other player does adopt this strategy, all the pieces will first gather at the center of the board, at which point there will be cold and fairly obvious a &#039;who has to move obliquely first&#039; battle, and the outcome of that determines who wins. prob P1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;This is just an operational hypothesis. Not convinced it&#039;s right. Just putting it out there for study.&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another player confirmed that this strategy &amp;quot;absolutely crushes&amp;quot; humans and AI alike. I tried it and it didn&#039;t work for me at all. Maybe I&#039;m doing it wrong, but I still can&#039;t beat any AIs. Only thing I can think of to explain the discrepancy is that my computer is faster and does more in a second than the tester&#039;s computers does in 10 seconds. Hard to imagine though - this crappy Dell I bought in Mongolia 2 years ago is superior to anything. But, if your computer is 12 years old, that could explain it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I&#039;m not really fit to comment on strategy, but that being said... The AIs always beat me and they always make plenty of oblique moves. Logically, if you&#039;re using Nick&#039;s &amp;quot;tight formation&amp;quot; strategy by advancing your front row of checkers directly forward, then hugging your next row in right behind them, etc., you&#039;d do better to hang back (by making oblique moves) and let the enemy come to you. You can keep your formation tighter if you&#039;re not on the march. But then if the opposing army approaches with an open channel, your &amp;quot;tight formation&amp;quot; won&#039;t be tight for long. I think there is something to it - keeping your army tight, as one of many possible tactics, but it&#039;s a long way from a game buster. [Thinking out loud here. Nick stimulated my feeble thought process.] There may be a tactic of rushing some of your checkers forward, trapping a couple of enemy checkers, and later freeing them at the last minute. It&#039;s the yin and yang aspect of Dodo. It may be a game of strategy, counter-strategy, counter-counter strategy...&lt;br /&gt;
------------------------------------------------------------------------&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The consensus on Dodo is that it&#039;s hard to know what to do.  For most of us, Dodo strategy will be elusive. Hopefully someone will write a strategy guide. One guy beat an AI app, so I know it’s possible to have a clue.  I can never beat AI, even set at 1/10 second thinking time.  It always stalemates at least one step ahead of me, like magic.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I called it Dodo because the rules are very easy to learn.  It didn&#039;t occur to me that it would be a hard game to play.  Maybe I should have called it Einstein.  Someone suggested Cascade, which would have been a good name.  It&#039;s like two way pachinko.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the time being, Dodo seems to be a good game for children, and a good game for gifted players.  There&#039;s not a lot of middle ground right now, though a strategy guide might open that up a little.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There&#039;s yin and yang in Dodo.   If you rush forward to blockade yourself, then in doing so you also blockade your opponent.  If you open a channel for your opponent to pass through, then via a cascading effect, he opens channels for you.  This results in a lot of close finishes.  It may be unsettling for some, though it’s not a flaw.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I&#039;m a decidedly below average player of games, but after playing Dodo 50 times or so, I feel like I&#039;m starting to develop a vague inkling of what&#039;s going on.  With familiarity, it becomes easier to see further ahead, and to at least attempt strategy.  As with quicksand though, strategies can sink and resurface.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One analytical description of Dodo (by Mike Zapala, the same guy who beat the AI):  &amp;quot;Hex4 Dodo is &#039;bigger&#039; than Checkers in terms of board size, army size, state space, game length, branching factor and game tree complexity. Indeed, its game tree complexity is comparable to International Draughts.&amp;quot; It’s a big game on a small board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Dodo is kind of an essential game.  As with all games, the ability to peer ahead into possible futures is important.   But without known tactics or strategy, lookahead is all you have.  Not to say that Dodo is opaque.  It&#039;s all there in plain sight right in front of you.  It&#039;s just a lot to process. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Dodo is a very fair game.  Player 1 won 50.5% of 10,000 random playouts.  Hex was clocked at 52.45%.  Most games have significantly higher than 50.5% random play, move order advantage. Especially opposing army games.  I&#039;ve had to scrap a number of such designs because an overwhelming first move advantage quickly developed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So there&#039;s no need for the pie rule in Dodo (Player 2 having the option of switching colors on his first turn).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I attribute Dodo&#039;s fairness to the wide range of possible total moves per game.  There can be no passthrough, or complete passthrough, or anything in between.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Dodo isn&#039;t vulnerable to mirroring (either by Player 2, or by Player 1 moving to center and then rotationally mirroring Player 2).  And it doesn&#039;t seem to be vulnerable to any other sort of tricks.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
All in all, Dodo is a high quality game, though that won&#039;t necessarily translate into popularity.  Let&#039;s wait and see.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I&#039;m fairly confident that someone much smarter than I will make headway in Dodo and develop concrete tactics and strategy.  Stay tuned.  I will post any such developments here.  Dodo was only born in May, and it&#039;s gonna take a little time.  It won&#039;t be like Reversi where sides are good and corners are even better.  It&#039;ll be more involved than that.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_dodo&amp;diff=8654</id>
		<title>Tips dodo</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_dodo&amp;diff=8654"/>
		<updated>2021-07-01T03:43:03Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;MarkSteere: Minor edit&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Update: Nick Bentley&#039;s Take On Dodo:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;1. move straight forward, rather than obliquely forward, especially for stones that start in the middle of your initial formation&lt;br /&gt;
2. It&#039;s better to move up the center of the board and make your opponent flank around you, than the reverse.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;If so, it&#039;s possible that the dominant strategy is:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;1. move the pieces at the center of your formation straight forward, starting with the ones at the front of your formation&lt;br /&gt;
2. then moving the pieces behind them straight forward as well.&lt;br /&gt;
3. If the other player doesn&#039;t adopt this strategy, you win.&lt;br /&gt;
4. If the other player does adopt this strategy, all the pieces will first gather at the center of the board, at which point there will be cold and fairly obvious a &#039;who has to move obliquely first&#039; battle, and the outcome of that determines who wins. prob P1.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;quot;This is just an operational hypothesis. Not convinced it&#039;s right. Just putting it out there for study.&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another player confirmed that this strategy &amp;quot;absolutely crushes&amp;quot; humans and AI alike.  I tried it and it didn&#039;t &lt;br /&gt;
work for me at all.  Maybe I&#039;m doing it wrong, but I still can&#039;t beat any AIs.  Only thing I can think of to &lt;br /&gt;
explain the discrepancy is that my computer is faster and does more in a second than the tester&#039;s computers did &lt;br /&gt;
in 10 seconds.  Hard to imagine though - this crappy Dell I bought in Mongolia 2 years ago is superior to &lt;br /&gt;
anything.  But, if your computer is 12 years old, that could explain it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
At any rate, this is something - maybe a good start.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
And... maybe not. I&#039;m not really fit to comment on strategy, but that being said... The AIs always beat me and &lt;br /&gt;
they always make plenty of oblique moves.  Logically, if you&#039;re using Nick&#039;s &amp;quot;tight formation&amp;quot; strategy by &lt;br /&gt;
advancing your front row of checkers a little, then hugging your next row in right behind them, etc., you&#039;d do &lt;br /&gt;
better to hang back and let the enemy come to you. You can keep your formation tighter if you&#039;re not on the march.&lt;br /&gt;
------------------------------------------------------------------------&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The consensus on Dodo is that it&#039;s hard to know what to do.  For most of us, Dodo strategy will be elusive. Hopefully someone will write a strategy guide. One guy beat an AI app, so I know it’s possible to have a clue.  I can never beat AI, even set at 1/10 second thinking time.  It always stalemates at least one step ahead of me, like magic.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I called it Dodo because the rules are very easy to learn.  It didn&#039;t occur to me that it would be a hard game to play.  Maybe I should have called it Einstein.  Someone suggested Cascade, which would have been a good name.  It&#039;s like two way pachinko.  &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For the time being, Dodo seems to be a good game for children, and a good game for gifted players.  There&#039;s not a lot of middle ground right now, though a strategy guide might open that up a little.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There&#039;s yin and yang in Dodo.   If you rush forward to blockade yourself, then in doing so you also blockade your opponent.  If you open a channel for your opponent to pass through, then via a cascading effect, he opens channels for you.  This results in a lot of close finishes.  It may be unsettling for some, though it’s not a flaw.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I&#039;m a decidedly below average player of games, but after playing Dodo 50 times or so, I feel like I&#039;m starting to develop a vague inkling of what&#039;s going on.  With familiarity, it becomes easier to see further ahead, and to at least attempt strategy.  As with quicksand though, strategies can sink and resurface.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
One analytical description of Dodo (by Mike Zapala, the same guy who beat the AI):  &amp;quot;Hex4 Dodo is &#039;bigger&#039; than Checkers in terms of board size, army size, state space, game length, branching factor and game tree complexity. Indeed, its game tree complexity is comparable to International Draughts.&amp;quot; It’s a big game on a small board.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Dodo is kind of an essential game.  As with all games, the ability to peer ahead into possible futures is important.   But without known tactics or strategy, lookahead is all you have.  Not to say that Dodo is opaque.  It&#039;s all there in plain sight right in front of you.  It&#039;s just a lot to process. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Dodo is a very fair game.  Player 1 won 50.5% of 10,000 random playouts.  Hex was clocked at 52.45%.  Most games have significantly higher than 50.5% random play, move order advantage. Especially opposing army games.  I&#039;ve had to scrap a number of such designs because an overwhelming first move advantage quickly developed.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
So there&#039;s no need for the pie rule in Dodo (Player 2 having the option of switching colors on his first turn).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I attribute Dodo&#039;s fairness to the wide range of possible total moves per game.  There can be no passthrough, or complete passthrough, or anything in between.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Dodo isn&#039;t vulnerable to mirroring (either by Player 2, or by Player 1 moving to center and then rotationally mirroring Player 2).  And it doesn&#039;t seem to be vulnerable to any other sort of tricks.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
All in all, Dodo is a high quality game, though that won&#039;t necessarily translate into popularity.  Let&#039;s wait and see.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
I&#039;m fairly confident that someone much smarter than I will make headway in Dodo and develop concrete tactics and strategy.  Stay tuned.  I will post any such developments here.  Dodo was only born in May, and it&#039;s gonna take a little time.  It won&#039;t be like Reversi where sides are good and corners are even better.  It&#039;ll be more involved than that.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>MarkSteere</name></author>
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