Board Game Arena - User contributions [en]

Tips handandfoot

2024-01-01T20:34:33Z

LoriDean: Punctuation

Please note that these are general rules; they might not be advisable depending on the rules used, game progression, and the expertise of the players.

'''FAIR PLAY'''

It is accepted and in the official rules that you may ask your partner if you may go out. Yes or no are the acceptable responses.

Table Talk is communication that influences your partner's play. This is considered cheating. Please don't table talk.

In games that allow an early end, it is polite to attempt to get a consensus with your partner. Games are rarely impossible to win.

'''TIPS'''

At the start of any game, make sure you know what rules are in play and what is required for contract, as well as how many rounds there are.

How you open and play is somewhat determined by if you are playing with open or closed melds (7 cards max), and whether the wild meld is required/optional or not allowed.

When playing in teams, remember that you should be working together to help each other get to foot, get contract and go out, hopefully ahead of your opponents.

With that in mind, think about what you are playing and when. One example is, if you are the only player in foot, closing melds may not be the wisest choice....

In a closed meld game (7 cards max), melds with 5+ cards are blocked meaning that you or your opponent can't pick up the discard with a pair of that value. However, depending on the rule set, this may need to be balanced against where wild cards can be played.

Picking up the discard pile can be very helpful to open new melds; however, if it is full of black threes, it can also stop you from getting to foot or going out. It is wise to pay attention to what you are picking up.

Hand and Foot is a game of both strategy and luck. The best players adapt to the cards and their situation in the game. Be flexible.

BGA Undo policy

2023-02-13T11:57:58Z

LoriDean: /* Adding simple Undo actio to your game */

Introducing "Undo" features in games can lead to bugs and/or bad interface design.

Please read the following carefully before implementing an Undo feature for your game.

= What you must NEVER do =

When you are restoring a game situation A from a game situation B:

* The Undo action must '''never change the active player'''. In other words, if player X clicks on "Undo", it must NOT make player Y active.
* If several players did game actions between A and B, you must NEVER provide an undo. In other words, an "Undo" action must NEVER force another player to redo some moves.
* No hidden (or private) information must have been revealed between A and B.
* No random event with a visible effect must have been triggered between A and B. This includes cards shuffling, dice roll, elements picking, ...

= When to propose to Undo? =

As a rule of thumb, on BGA we advise you to not undo moves.

Undo are painful for opponents, in real world and online. Some players may also use Undo to "test" situations while they should just think instead.

In many cases, proposing an "Undo" means also adding an extra step, which is not good for the game interface.

Undo may be useful in 2 main situations:
* To allow players to take back a move following a "misclick" that may ruin their game.
* To allow players to take back a very complex series of actions.

== About Undo to avoid "misclick" ==

I most cases, you don't need this: players must pay attention :)

However, if several of the following cases correspond to your situation, you may consider adding an Undo for "misclicks":

* If the '''zone to click is very small''', or close to other zones, misclicks may happened frequently. Note that if this only happens on mobile, you can propose the Undo to mobile users only.
* If '''there is already another step''' after the step you want to undo. In this case, adding an "Undo" does not add an extra step.
* If you are in the middle of a real "game action". For example, on Chess, it is normal to allow to undo the selection of a piece in order to select another one, as the move hasn't been done already.
* The action done by the player is obviously a mistake (in this case, please also consider adding a confirmation before the action).

On the contrary, you must be reluctant to add an Undo if:
* This adds an extra step.
* The game action is clear and the zone to click is large.

To conclude: we may allow a player to undo a move caused by a "misclick", but we shouldn't allow a player to undo a bad move he plays consciously.

Note: not all of these cituations require server undo, in chess example above Undo of selection - you don't need to send piece selection to the server you can store it locally (this is "client side undo"), there is no Undo button in this case - user just selects another piece. Similary if you add prompt for clicking on critical buttons like "Pass" you can add extra prompt, but no Undo

== About Undo to take back moves from a complex series of actions ==

Games with a complex serie of actions are an "exception" to BGA Undo policy.

In most games, you shouldn't provide an undo because players are not allowed to "explore" the different possibilities by playing and undoing their moves.

However, in some games, it is commonly admitted that players are allowed to take back a move. The typical example is a complex strategy game with a long serie of actions during your turn. "Through the Ages" or "Tzolk'in" are 2 good examples.

To know if this is a good idea to propose an undo, ask yourself the question: "when playing in real life, will my opponents authorize me to take back this move?". Depending on your answer, you should choose to provide an Undo, to not provide an Undo, or maybe to propose an Undo as an option for the game.

Note: in this situation it is also possible to use client side undo, instead of server side, see "Russian Railroads" for example (implemented using setClientState method).

= How to implement Undo =

There are 2 ways to implement Undo:
* The framework undoSavePoint/undoRestorepoint methods, [[Main_game_logic:_yourgamename.game.php#Undo_moves | documented here]].
* Your own method.

As a rule of thumb, it is way better to use your own method to provide an Undo. The reasons are:
* The framework method is quite heavy to use (it saves the WHOLE situation). To cancel a simple move, it is way more efficient for you to execute the opposite move.
* The framework method is doing a full "reset" of the game interface. It is way more smooth and clear to play the opposite move from a player point of view.
* The framework Undo provides only ONE save point. If you want to provide a complex Undo (i.e.: the possibility to undo all the previous steps one by one), you must implement it by yourself.

However, the framework is very handy to use (only 2 methods), so this should be your first choice if some moves are very difficult to reverse on client side.

== How does undoSavePoint/undoRestorepoint works? ==

The undoSavePoint method makes a full copy of the game database state.

The undoRestorePoint method:
* restores the game database
* removes all your game HTML + the player panels
* restores the game HTML + the player panels according to their state at the initial game loading
* calls your "setup" method

'''Important''': because undoRestorePoint is calling your "setup" method, you must ensure that your whole game state can be restored from there. In particular, all your member variables must be initialized inside the "setup" method (and not only in the constructor !).

== Adding simple Undo action to your game ==

=== Step 1: Declare in gameinfos ===
Add 'db_undo_support' => true in gamesinfo.inc.php

Note: if you have game in studio you must reload gameinfos and restart all these games

=== Step 2: Insert savepoint ===
Determine where you want to save the undo state. Must be single active player state
* Begging of new user turn
* Every time new information revealed such as
** dice roll
** card is drawn
** anything else hidden is shown

Insert
$this->undoSavepoint();

=== Step 3: Create undo action in server ===
Add players undo action
in game.action.php:
public function undo() {
self::setAjaxMode();
$this->game->action_undo();
self::ajaxResponse();
}
in game.game.php
function action_undo() {
$this->undoRestorePoint(); // do not do checkAction - its on purpose - do not need to add undo as possible action to every state
}

=== Step 4: Create undo action in client ===
in game.js
add this to onUpdateActionButton regardless of state but inside isCurrenPlayerAction
<pre>
this.addActionButton('button_undo', _('Undo'), 'onUndo', undefined, undefined, 'red');
</pre>

and onUndo would be like this
<pre>
onUndo: function (event) {
const action = "undo";
this.ajaxcall(
"/" + this.game_name + "/" + this.game_name + "/" + action + ".html",
[],
this,
(result) => {},
(err) => {
if (err) return;
this.setMainTitle(_("Undo requested..."));
dojo.empty("generalactions");
},
true
);
},
</pre>

=== Step 5: Make it fancy ===
If you want you can add extra styling to the Undo button such as it will appeat at right of all buttons
in game.css
<pre>
#button_undo {
float: right;
background-color: red;
background-image: none;
}
</pre>

[[Category:Studio]]

Tips handandfoot

2022-11-24T01:36:26Z

LoriDean: /* Endgame Situation */

Please note that these are general rules; they might not be advisable depending on the rules used, game progression, and the expertise of the players.

=== TLDR - Arena tips ===

Read the tips! Especially from Hand Management onwards!

=== Game mechanics ===

In one turn, you draw two cards and discard one card. You can reduce your hand size by one if you are able to play both of the cards you draw (cards already in hand + 2 drawn cards - 2 played cards - 1 discard = cards already in hand - 1). So to reduce your hand size, and ultimately reduce it to zero, you need to be able to play as many of the cards you draw as possible. To be able to play the cards you draw, you need to have melds (also known as piles) to which cards can be added.

Rummy games are very customizable, and Hand and Foot is no exception. Be sure to check the rules of the table before joining it, because you don't want to find out midway through a game that the rules don't allow a move you've been building up towards.

=== Melding ===

Try to keep meld clean at the beginning, and then dirty up your melds later.

Don't be in a rush to open by opening a bunch of dirty melds. The dirtier you open the less wilds you have for a wild meld. Wilds can be so hard to get sometimes so best not to waste them.

When playing in pairs, open as soon as you can each round. However, do not rush to open dirty, unless you are behind and opponents are already open.

The most points wins the game, so it's best to have as many clean melds as possible. The best way to catch up when behind is to have melds that are worth the most. Concentrate on wilds, then clean, then dirty. A bunch of dirty melds means you lose 200 points each meld.

If you can, only open dirty melds in the following cases: running or walking to your foot; once in foot and wilds closed; when opening; also when opening a wild meld but needing the points to open; in the final round when well ahead to open the round; or in the final round if both opponents have gone to foot.

=== Hand Management ===

Watch the discards of the person after you. On future turns, you should usually discard a card that this person has already discarded.

Usually, you should discard cards that the opponent has already melded especially the melds with 5 or more cards in them.

Hold onto a couple of wilds in your hand to help you get to your foot (this is after a wild meld has already been started). They go great with pairs to help you walk/run to your foot. If you get the third card for those pairs and can get to your foot, add the wilds to the wild meld.

Picking up the discard pile is usually advisable early in the round. In addition to allowing you to set down a new meld, the cards picked up from the discard pile serve as cushions that help you build up as many melds as possible. That is, cards picked up from the discard pile can be discarded instead of a card from a pair that you've been hoping to turn into a meld.

By picking up the discard, however, you might pick up junk cards (like the 3 of spades) that will set you back on your quest to get to your foot or go out. Attended by great benefits as well as disadvantages, whether to pick up a discard is arguably the most difficult and consequential decision in Hand and Foot.

If you hold onto a pair of a meld already open, you can use them to pick up the discard pile. The discard pile can help you with completing pairs or adding cards to your singles.

If you are in your hand and your partner is in their foot, DO NOT OPEN DIRTY MELDS unless you are going to your foot in that move.

=== Foot Management ===

If you're the first partner to get to your foot and the other team isn't close to going out, don't close any melds ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven'''). The more that is closed the harder it will be for your partner to get to their foot.

If you get into your foot before your partner, and the other team isn't close to going out, don't play any cards except wilds on the wild meld and new melds (no more than 3 cards). This is to leave lots of room for your partner to get to their foot. If you top up melds to 5 or 6 cards, your partner may have 2 in hand (holding to pick up discard) or they keep picking up that number. Best to leave room for your partner to add cards.

If your partner is able to walk to their foot after you have been waiting for them in yours, and you can wait, wait one more turn for them to play their foot. You could have already been adjusting your cards to be set up and giving them the chance to play a new set of cards can be very valuable.

=== Endgame Situation ===

Complete your contract before opening a second wild meld. However, there are some situations where it's best to open second wild before completing contract. This can be to gain points due to being behind, you have lots of wilds in your hand and you don't want to dirty a bunch of stuff to get to your foot, etc.

When almost ready to go out but your team needs 1 or 2 dirty piles, don't close all the melds with 6 cards clean until you have your 2 dirties to go out. Too many times teams need just the dirty piles to go out but there aren't any melds ready to close with just a wild. Not having melds ready to close dirty gives the other team time to catch up in points.

Pay attention to how close the other team is ready to go out. ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven''') If they don't have wilds started, then you have time to help your partner get to their foot so don't close anything. However, if the other team has or is really close to having their contract, then it's time to close things so you don't lose the points. *** HOWEVER, if you're in the last round and closing stuff doesn't get you ahead in points (or even close), then there's no point in closing melds. This will make it hard for your partner to get to their foot, and there's no point as you aren't going to win without them.

=== Fair Play ===

It's in the official rules to ask your partner if you can go out, though multiple players have been reported for this. The only answer your partner should give is a yes or no. However, asking permission to go out is not a built in mechanic of the game and so it is not required. As the developer has said, it is something to be agreed upon before the game, and is not enforceable.

Table Talk is communication that influences your partner's play. This is considered cheating. Please be mindful of what you say.

Consider not giving up: the game could be close enough to still win.

Tips handandfoot

2022-11-24T01:29:26Z

LoriDean: /* Melding */

Please note that these are general rules; they might not be advisable depending on the rules used, game progression, and the expertise of the players.

=== TLDR - Arena tips ===

Read the tips! Especially from Hand Management onwards!

=== Game mechanics ===

In one turn, you draw two cards and discard one card. You can reduce your hand size by one if you are able to play both of the cards you draw (cards already in hand + 2 drawn cards - 2 played cards - 1 discard = cards already in hand - 1). So to reduce your hand size, and ultimately reduce it to zero, you need to be able to play as many of the cards you draw as possible. To be able to play the cards you draw, you need to have melds (also known as piles) to which cards can be added.

Rummy games are very customizable, and Hand and Foot is no exception. Be sure to check the rules of the table before joining it, because you don't want to find out midway through a game that the rules don't allow a move you've been building up towards.

=== Melding ===

Try to keep meld clean at the beginning, and then dirty up your melds later.

Don't be in a rush to open by opening a bunch of dirty melds. The dirtier you open the less wilds you have for a wild meld. Wilds can be so hard to get sometimes so best not to waste them.

When playing in pairs, open as soon as you can each round. However, do not rush to open dirty, unless you are behind and opponents are already open.

The most points wins the game, so it's best to have as many clean melds as possible. The best way to catch up when behind is to have melds that are worth the most. Concentrate on wilds, then clean, then dirty. A bunch of dirty melds means you lose 200 points each meld.

If you can, only open dirty melds in the following cases: running or walking to your foot; once in foot and wilds closed; when opening; also when opening a wild meld but needing the points to open; in the final round when well ahead to open the round; or in the final round if both opponents have gone to foot.

=== Hand Management ===

Watch the discards of the person after you. On future turns, you should usually discard a card that this person has already discarded.

Usually, you should discard cards that the opponent has already melded especially the melds with 5 or more cards in them.

Hold onto a couple of wilds in your hand to help you get to your foot (this is after a wild meld has already been started). They go great with pairs to help you walk/run to your foot. If you get the third card for those pairs and can get to your foot, add the wilds to the wild meld.

Picking up the discard pile is usually advisable early in the round. In addition to allowing you to set down a new meld, the cards picked up from the discard pile serve as cushions that help you build up as many melds as possible. That is, cards picked up from the discard pile can be discarded instead of a card from a pair that you've been hoping to turn into a meld.

By picking up the discard, however, you might pick up junk cards (like the 3 of spades) that will set you back on your quest to get to your foot or go out. Attended by great benefits as well as disadvantages, whether to pick up a discard is arguably the most difficult and consequential decision in Hand and Foot.

If you hold onto a pair of a meld already open, you can use them to pick up the discard pile. The discard pile can help you with completing pairs or adding cards to your singles.

If you are in your hand and your partner is in their foot, DO NOT OPEN DIRTY MELDS unless you are going to your foot in that move.

=== Foot Management ===

If you're the first partner to get to your foot and the other team isn't close to going out, don't close any melds ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven'''). The more that is closed the harder it will be for your partner to get to their foot.

If you get into your foot before your partner, and the other team isn't close to going out, don't play any cards except wilds on the wild meld and new melds (no more than 3 cards). This is to leave lots of room for your partner to get to their foot. If you top up melds to 5 or 6 cards, your partner may have 2 in hand (holding to pick up discard) or they keep picking up that number. Best to leave room for your partner to add cards.

If your partner is able to walk to their foot after you have been waiting for them in yours, and you can wait, wait one more turn for them to play their foot. You could have already been adjusting your cards to be set up and giving them the chance to play a new set of cards can be very valuable.

=== Endgame Situation ===

Complete your contract before opening a second wild meld. However, there are some situations where it's best to open second wild before completing contract. This can be to gain points due to being behind, you have lots of wilds in your hand and you don't want to dirty a bunch of stuff to get to your foot, etc.

When almost ready to go out but your team needs 1 or 2 dirty piles, don't close all the melds with 6 cards clean until you have your 2 dirties to go out. Too many times teams need just the dirty piles to go out but there isn't any melds ready to close with just a wild. Not having melds ready to close dirty gives the other team time to catch up in points.

Pay attention to how close the other team is ready to go out. ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven''') If they don't have wilds started, then you have time to help your partner get to their foot so don't close anything. However, if the other team has or really close to having their contract, then it's time to close things so you don't lose the points. *** HOWEVER, if you're in the last round and closing stuff doesn't get you ahead in points (or even close), then there's no point in closing melds. This will make it hard for your partner to get to their foot and there's no point as you aren't going to win without them.

=== Fair Play ===

It's in the official rules to ask your partner if you can go out, though multiple players have been reported for this. The only answer your partner should give is a yes or no. However, asking permission to go out is not a built in mechanic of the game and so it is not required. As the developer has said, it is something to be agreed upon before the game, and is not enforceable.

Table Talk is communication that influences your partner's play. This is considered cheating. Please be mindful of what you say.

Consider not giving up: the game could be close enough to still win.

Tips handandfoot

2022-11-24T01:22:47Z

LoriDean: /* Fair Play */

Please note that these are general rules; they might not be advisable depending on the rules used, game progression, and the expertise of the players.

=== TLDR - Arena tips ===

Read the tips! Especially from Hand Management onwards!

=== Game mechanics ===

In one turn, you draw two cards and discard one card. You can reduce your hand size by one if you are able to play both of the cards you draw (cards already in hand + 2 drawn cards - 2 played cards - 1 discard = cards already in hand - 1). So to reduce your hand size, and ultimately reduce it to zero, you need to be able to play as many of the cards you draw as possible. To be able to play the cards you draw, you need to have melds (also known as piles) to which cards can be added.

Rummy games are very customizable, and Hand and Foot is no exception. Be sure to check the rules of the table before joining it, because you don't want to find out midway through a game that the rules don't allow a move you've been building up towards.

=== Melding ===

Try to keep meld clean at the beginning, and then dirty up your melds later.

Don't be in a rush to open by opening a bunch of dirty melds. The dirtier you open the less wilds you have for a wild meld. Wilds can be so hard to get sometimes so best not to waste them.

When playing in pairs, open as soon as you can each round. However do not rush to open dirty, unless you are behind and opponents are already open.

The most points wins the game, so it's best to have as many clean melds as possible. The best way to catch up when behind is to have piles that are worth the most. Concentrate on wilds, then clean, then dirty. A bunch of dirty piles means you lose 200 points each pile.

If you can, only open dirty melds in the following cases: running or walking to your foot, once in foot and wilds closed, when opening and also opening a wild meld but needing the points to open, in the final round when well ahead to open the eound, or in the final round if both opponents have gone to foot.

=== Hand Management ===

Watch the discards of the person after you. On future turns, you should usually discard a card that this person has already discarded.

Usually, you should discard cards that the opponent has already melded especially the melds with 5 or more cards in them.

Hold onto a couple of wilds in your hand to help you get to your foot (this is after a wild meld has already been started). They go great with pairs to help you walk/run to your foot. If you get the third card for those pairs and can get to your foot, add the wilds to the wild meld.

Picking up the discard pile is usually advisable early in the round. In addition to allowing you to set down a new meld, the cards picked up from the discard pile serve as cushions that help you build up as many melds as possible. That is, cards picked up from the discard pile can be discarded instead of a card from a pair that you've been hoping to turn into a meld.

By picking up the discard, however, you might pick up junk cards (like the 3 of spades) that will set you back on your quest to get to your foot or go out. Attended by great benefits as well as disadvantages, whether to pick up a discard is arguably the most difficult and consequential decision in Hand and Foot.

If you hold onto a pair of a meld already open, you can use them to pick up the discard pile. The discard pile can help you with completing pairs or adding cards to your singles.

If you are in your hand and your partner is in their foot, DO NOT OPEN DIRTY MELDS unless you are going to your foot in that move.

=== Foot Management ===

If you're the first partner to get to your foot and the other team isn't close to going out, don't close any melds ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven'''). The more that is closed the harder it will be for your partner to get to their foot.

If you get into your foot before your partner, and the other team isn't close to going out, don't play any cards except wilds on the wild meld and new melds (no more than 3 cards). This is to leave lots of room for your partner to get to their foot. If you top up melds to 5 or 6 cards, your partner may have 2 in hand (holding to pick up discard) or they keep picking up that number. Best to leave room for your partner to add cards.

If your partner is able to walk to their foot after you have been waiting for them in yours, and you can wait, wait one more turn for them to play their foot. You could have already been adjusting your cards to be set up and giving them the chance to play a new set of cards can be very valuable.

=== Endgame Situation ===

Complete your contract before opening a second wild meld. However, there are some situations where it's best to open second wild before completing contract. This can be to gain points due to being behind, you have lots of wilds in your hand and you don't want to dirty a bunch of stuff to get to your foot, etc.

When almost ready to go out but your team needs 1 or 2 dirty piles, don't close all the melds with 6 cards clean until you have your 2 dirties to go out. Too many times teams need just the dirty piles to go out but there isn't any melds ready to close with just a wild. Not having melds ready to close dirty gives the other team time to catch up in points.

Pay attention to how close the other team is ready to go out. ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven''') If they don't have wilds started, then you have time to help your partner get to their foot so don't close anything. However, if the other team has or really close to having their contract, then it's time to close things so you don't lose the points. *** HOWEVER, if you're in the last round and closing stuff doesn't get you ahead in points (or even close), then there's no point in closing melds. This will make it hard for your partner to get to their foot and there's no point as you aren't going to win without them.

=== Fair Play ===

It's in the official rules to ask your partner if you can go out, though multiple players have been reported for this. The only answer your partner should give is a yes or no. However, asking permission to go out is not a built in mechanic of the game and so it is not required. As the developer has said, it is something to be agreed upon before the game, and is not enforceable.

Table Talk is communication that influences your partner's play. This is considered cheating. Please be mindful of what you say.

Consider not giving up: the game could be close enough to still win.

Tips handandfoot

2022-11-24T01:21:48Z

LoriDean: /* Game mechanics */

Please note that these are general rules; they might not be advisable depending on the rules used, game progression, and the expertise of the players.

=== TLDR - Arena tips ===

Read the tips! Especially from Hand Management onwards!

=== Game mechanics ===

In one turn, you draw two cards and discard one card. You can reduce your hand size by one if you are able to play both of the cards you draw (cards already in hand + 2 drawn cards - 2 played cards - 1 discard = cards already in hand - 1). So to reduce your hand size, and ultimately reduce it to zero, you need to be able to play as many of the cards you draw as possible. To be able to play the cards you draw, you need to have melds (also known as piles) to which cards can be added.

Rummy games are very customizable, and Hand and Foot is no exception. Be sure to check the rules of the table before joining it, because you don't want to find out midway through a game that the rules don't allow a move you've been building up towards.

=== Melding ===

Try to keep meld clean at the beginning, and then dirty up your melds later.

Don't be in a rush to open by opening a bunch of dirty melds. The dirtier you open the less wilds you have for a wild meld. Wilds can be so hard to get sometimes so best not to waste them.

When playing in pairs, open as soon as you can each round. However do not rush to open dirty, unless you are behind and opponents are already open.

The most points wins the game, so it's best to have as many clean melds as possible. The best way to catch up when behind is to have piles that are worth the most. Concentrate on wilds, then clean, then dirty. A bunch of dirty piles means you lose 200 points each pile.

If you can, only open dirty melds in the following cases: running or walking to your foot, once in foot and wilds closed, when opening and also opening a wild meld but needing the points to open, in the final round when well ahead to open the eound, or in the final round if both opponents have gone to foot.

=== Hand Management ===

Watch the discards of the person after you. On future turns, you should usually discard a card that this person has already discarded.

Usually, you should discard cards that the opponent has already melded especially the melds with 5 or more cards in them.

Hold onto a couple of wilds in your hand to help you get to your foot (this is after a wild meld has already been started). They go great with pairs to help you walk/run to your foot. If you get the third card for those pairs and can get to your foot, add the wilds to the wild meld.

Picking up the discard pile is usually advisable early in the round. In addition to allowing you to set down a new meld, the cards picked up from the discard pile serve as cushions that help you build up as many melds as possible. That is, cards picked up from the discard pile can be discarded instead of a card from a pair that you've been hoping to turn into a meld.

By picking up the discard, however, you might pick up junk cards (like the 3 of spades) that will set you back on your quest to get to your foot or go out. Attended by great benefits as well as disadvantages, whether to pick up a discard is arguably the most difficult and consequential decision in Hand and Foot.

If you hold onto a pair of a meld already open, you can use them to pick up the discard pile. The discard pile can help you with completing pairs or adding cards to your singles.

If you are in your hand and your partner is in their foot, DO NOT OPEN DIRTY MELDS unless you are going to your foot in that move.

=== Foot Management ===

If you're the first partner to get to your foot and the other team isn't close to going out, don't close any melds ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven'''). The more that is closed the harder it will be for your partner to get to their foot.

If you get into your foot before your partner, and the other team isn't close to going out, don't play any cards except wilds on the wild meld and new melds (no more than 3 cards). This is to leave lots of room for your partner to get to their foot. If you top up melds to 5 or 6 cards, your partner may have 2 in hand (holding to pick up discard) or they keep picking up that number. Best to leave room for your partner to add cards.

If your partner is able to walk to their foot after you have been waiting for them in yours, and you can wait, wait one more turn for them to play their foot. You could have already been adjusting your cards to be set up and giving them the chance to play a new set of cards can be very valuable.

=== Endgame Situation ===

Complete your contract before opening a second wild meld. However, there are some situations where it's best to open second wild before completing contract. This can be to gain points due to being behind, you have lots of wilds in your hand and you don't want to dirty a bunch of stuff to get to your foot, etc.

When almost ready to go out but your team needs 1 or 2 dirty piles, don't close all the melds with 6 cards clean until you have your 2 dirties to go out. Too many times teams need just the dirty piles to go out but there isn't any melds ready to close with just a wild. Not having melds ready to close dirty gives the other team time to catch up in points.

Pay attention to how close the other team is ready to go out. ('''IMPORTANT: this only applies to games where meld size is limited to seven''') If they don't have wilds started, then you have time to help your partner get to their foot so don't close anything. However, if the other team has or really close to having their contract, then it's time to close things so you don't lose the points. *** HOWEVER, if you're in the last round and closing stuff doesn't get you ahead in points (or even close), then there's no point in closing melds. This will make it hard for your partner to get to their foot and there's no point as you aren't going to win without them.

=== Fair Play ===

It's in the official rules to ask your partner if you can go out, though multiple players have been reported for this. The only answer your partner should give is a yes or no. However, asking permission to go out is not a built in mechanic of the game and so it is not required. As the developer has said, it is something to be agreed upon before the game, and is not enforceable.

Table Talk is communication that influences your partner's play, this is considered cheating, please be mindful of what you say.

Consider not giving up, the game could be close enough to still win.

Gamehelpblooms

2022-06-18T06:13:14Z

LoriDean:

Blooms is a two-player territory game a bit like the classical game Go, but shorter, easier to learn, and more colorful.

==Definitions==

*'''Bloom''': a bloom is an entire group of connected stones on the board of the same color. A single stone (unconnected to others of the same color) is also a bloom.
*'''Fenced''': a bloom is fenced when there are no empty spaces adjacent to any of the bloom’s stones.

== Gameplay ==

Each player owns 2 colors of stones.

To start, Player 1 places one stone and either of their colors on any empty space.

From then on, starting with Player 2, the players take turns. On your turn, you must place one or two stones onto any empty spaces. If you place two, they must be different colors. Then, capture all fenced enemy blooms.

The first player to have captured X stones wins (this number is visible in the top right under each player name).