Board Game Arena - User contributions [en]

Gamehelpagricola

2021-08-08T03:18:38Z

Jyasskin: /* Harvest */ Workers require 3 food each in the solo game. Still 1 for newborns.

== Overview ==
Welcome to the farm! In Agricola, you'll play as a family of farmers over the course of 14 rounds, steadily building up a mostly empty space into a vibrant farm full of grains, vegetables, and animals, as well as improve the living conditions of your family. Players assign their workers to various spaces on the action board to perform various actions to gather resources or improve your farm, most of which will be used to score points, but periodically, players need to pay food to support the family. The player with the most points after 14 rounds wins!

== Game Anatomy ==
Each player has access to various resources, including:
* Food, needed to feed your family periodically
* Wood, needed to build fences, stables, and many improvements
* Clay, needed to build most major improvements
* Stone, needed to build other major improvements
* Reed, needed for some improvements and home renovations
* Grain and vegetables, which can be planted in your farm
* A hand of cards, consisting of 7 minor improvements and 7 occupations
* Workers, represented by meeples. You start the game with 2 of these - the rest can be earned during the game.

Each player also has a board representing their farm, which contains:
* Your home, represented by different tiles. Your home size and what material it's made of limits the size of your family and scores you additional points at the end of the game.
* Fields. Grains and vegetables can be planted on these and are picked up during the harvest phase.
* Pastures and the animals housing them. Pastures are separated by fences, and animals inside them can be cooked for food or held onto for points.
* Any played improvements or occupations, most of which give various abilities, actions, or scoring opportunities as described on them.

The central board contains the following:
* The actions players can take. Note that each round, a new action will be added to this, in a loose order.
* The available major improvements. There are 10 improvement cards that can be built by different players, most of which center on collecting or converting food.

== Game Flow ==
Agricola takes place over the course of 14 rounds. At the beginning of each round, some spaces are stocked with resources, even if they already had resources from a previous round. A new action is added to the board - these new actions are loosely randomized by being sorted into 6 phases, then randomized within each phase. Then each player, starting with whoever has the first player token and proceeding clockwise around the table, takes a turn by placing one of their family members on a particular space, then immediately performing that action. Players can also, as a free action, organize their farm or make certain conversions as described on various improvements. Once they have finished resolving this action, it's the next player's turn. Players continue doing this until all players have placed all available workers. After certain rounds, a harvest phase happens. Then, a new round starts.

=== Starting Actions ===
These actions are available from the start of the game:
* Farm Expansion: Pay 2 reed and 5 of whatever material your house is currently made of (wood by default, to build a new room to your home. This new room must be connected to an existing room. Additionally, you can build a stable on any unoccupied space or a pasture. This stable can hold one animal, or doubles the capacity of an existing pasture.
* Meeting Place: Take the starting player token. This means you will be the first player to take actions in the next round. This is the only way this token moves - if no one takes this action in a particular round, the same player remains the first player again. Additionally, you may play one minor improvement card from your hand by paying the cost on it.
* Grain Seeds: Gain 1 grain.
* Farmland: Add one field to your farm. This field must be adjacent to at least one other field (if any exist).
* Lessons: Play an occupation card from your hand. The first of these cards is free, but all others cost 1 food.
* Day Laborer: Gain 2 food.
* Forest: This space accumulates 3 wood at the beginning of each round. Gain all wood on it.
* Clay Pit: This space accumulates 1 clay at the beginning of each round. Gain all clay on it.
* Reed Bank: This space accumulates 1 reed at the beginning of each round. Gain all reed on it.
* Fishing: This space accumulates 1 food at the beginning of each round. Gain all food on it.
(Other spaces may be available based on the player count.)

=== Actions In Phase 1 ===
These actions will be added at some point in rounds 1 through 4, but the exact order they appear will be random.
* Improvements: Gain 1 major or minor improvement by paying its cost.
* Fencing: Pay any number of wood to build the same number of fences, thus giving you pastures to house animals. You must completely enclose all spaces to be used as pastures this way.
* Sheep Market: This space accumulates 1 sheep at the beginning of each round. Gain all sheep on it.
* Grain Utilization: Sow any number of grains or vegetables in any empty fields. If you place a grain in a field, immediately add two more grains on the same field; you will receive one of them each harvest phase. Vegetables work the same way, except you only add one more vegetable to each field. Additionally, you may bake bread by converting grain to food; any cards that allow you to do this will tell you how much food you get this way.

=== Actions in Phase 2 ===
These actions will be added at some point in rounds 5 through 7, also in a random order.
* Western Quarry: This space accumulates 1 stone at the beginning of each round. Gain all stone on it.
* House Redevelopment: Upgrade a wooden house to a clay house, or a clay house to a stone house. To do this, pay 1 reed and 1 of whatever material you are upgrading to per room in your house. You must be able to upgrade the entire house - you can't upgrade individual rooms. Additionally, you may build a major or minor improvement after completing this.
* Wish For Children: Add a new worker to your family. This can't cause you to have more family members than rooms in your house. This worker will be able to take actions in the following round.

=== Actions in Phase 3 ===
These actions will be added at some point in rounds 8 and 9, in a random order.
* Vegetable Seeds: Gain 1 vegetable.
* Pig Market: This space accumulates 1 pig at the beginning of each round. Gain all pigs on it.

=== Actions in Phase 4 ===
These actions will be added at some point in round 10 and 11, in a random order.
* Eastern Quarry: This space accumulates 1 stone at the beginning of each round. Gain all stone on it.
* Cattle Market: This space accumulates 1 cow at the beginning of each round. Gain all cows on it.

=== Actions in Phase 5 ===
These actions will be added at some point in round 12 and 13, in a random order.
* Cultivation: Place one field in your farm, then sow any number of fields as you would have in Grain Utilization.
* Urgent Wish For Children: Add a new worker to your family. This works the same way as Wish For Children, except that the requirement about rooms in your house is ignored.

=== Actions in Phase 6 ===
This action will be added in round 14.
* Farm Redevelopment: Upgrade your house, then build fences. All rules House Redevelopment and Fencing apply.

=== Harvest ===
A harvest phase happens immediately after each phase (that is, after rounds 4, 7, 9, 11, 13, and 14). In each harvest, the following things happen in order:
* Each player takes one grain or vegetable from each field.
* Each player pays 2 food for each worker (3 in the solo game, or just 1 if the worker was just added this round and never took an action). Players may freely perform any free actions or exchanges to meet this cost. For each food players are unable to pay, they take a Beggar card, worth -3 points at the end of the game.
* If you have at least 2 sheep, pigs, or cows, you gain a new animal of that type. You may immediately rearrange any animals in your farm to place these, but may not convert these to food.

== End Of The Game ==
The game ends after the 14th round and its attached harvest phase. After that, players score for their farm.

The player with the most points wins!

==Scoring==

-1 point 1 point 2 points 3 points 4 points
|----------|----------|----------|----------|----------|
Field Tiles | 0-1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5+ |
Pastures | 0 | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4+ |
|----------|----------|----------|----------|----------|
Grain | 0 | 1-3 | 4-5 | 6-7 | 8+ |
Vegetables | 0 | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4+ |
|----------|----------|----------|----------|----------|
Sheep | 0 | 1-3 | 4-5 | 6-7 | 8+ |
Wild Boar | 0 | 1-2 | 3-4 | 5-6 | 7+ |
Cattle | 0 | 1 | 2-3 | 4-5 | 6+ |
|----------|----------|----------|----------|----------|

_________________________________________________
| |
| -1 point per unused space in the Farmyard |
| 1 point per fenced stable & per Clay hut room |
| 2 points per Stone house room |
| 3 points per family member |
| |
| -3 points per begging token |
| _ points printed on cards |
| _ bonus points |
| |
-------------------------------------------------

Gamehelphanabi

2021-04-19T02:59:56Z

Jyasskin: Added sections for describing all of the available strategies, but I couldn't find descriptions in https://boardgamearena.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=102&t=18031 to fill them all in.

== Introduction ==
Hanabi is a cooperative game. Your goal, as a team, is to build a fabulous fireworks show. You do this by playing the cards in the correct order. However, you cannot see your own cards; you can only see the cards of your team mates.

'''Final Score Ratings'''

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Points
!Overall impression
|-
|5 or less
|horrible, booed by the crowd...
|-
|6-10
|mediocre, just a spattering of applause.
|-
|11-15
|honourable, but will not be remembered for very long...
|-
|16-20
|excellent, crowd pleasing.
|-
|21-24
|amazing, will be remembered for a very long time!
|-
|25
|legendary, everyone left speechless, stars in their eyes
|}

== Card distribution ==
In a game of Hanabi on NORMAL DIFFICULTY, the deck contains 50 cards. Each has exactly one colour: either Red, Yellow, Green, Blue, or White.

There are 10 cards in each colour:
* three 1s
* two 2s
* two 3s
* two 4s
* one 5

===Multicolour cards===
There are three variants that add a 6th colour: the multicolour.

# TRICKY DIFFICULTY adds 10 multicolour cards to the normal game. These cards get marked by a separate multicolour clue.
# HARD DIFFICULTY adds '''5''' multicolour cards to the normal game: one of each number. These cards get marked by a separate multicolour clue.
# VERY DIFFICULT DIFFICULTY adds 10 multicolour cards to the normal game. These cards get marked by ANY colour clue.

== Gameplay ==
You each take turns. During a turn, a player may take one (1) of three actions. After your action, the turn ends and it is the next player's turn.

The game can end in several ways:

#All cards have been drawn from the deck. After this happens, everybody gets 1 more turn. The game ends with the score at the last turn.
#Your team played all possible cards. In this case, the game ends immediately and you receive the maximum possible score.
#Your team made three mistakes that caused misfires. In this case, you lose the game and get negative ten (-10) points.
#Your team 'abandons' the game. Although discouraged, you receive zero (0) points.

== Turn ==
During your turn, you have one (1) action. You can choose to do one of the following:

#'''Give a colour or number clue to a teammate:''' This costs one clue-token (-1). You cannot give a clue if there are zero (0) clue-tokens left. When you give a clue, you must indicate ALL cards of a certain colour, or ALL cards of a certain number.
#'''Play a card:''' When a card is played, it is evaluated. If the card fits in one of sequences, it is placed in the appropriate colour stack on the table. If it does not, it is placed in the discard pile and the team gets a misfire-token.
#'''Discard a card:''' When you discard, the card is placed in the discard pile and you get a clue-token (+1). Note: cards on the discard pile are out of the game and can never return.

When you remove a card from your hand, by either playing or discarding, at the end of your turn, you draw a new card.

== Options ==

=== Black Powder ===

* You may not give clues regarding the colour black.
* Black cards must be played in reverse order, from 5 to 1.
* In the deck there are three black 5s, two black 4s, two black 3s, two black 2s, and one black 1.

=== Five Flamboyants ===

After playing the last card of a colour, randomly select one of the following bonuses for immediate use:

* Gain a clue token.
* Gain a clue token and recover a life.
* Give a clue regarding a colour.
* Give a clue regarding a number.
* Shuffle a discarded card into the deck.
* Play a discarded card, if possible.

== Lingo ==
When you play with others, certain words are used to describe certain objects or situations. Here is a short list.

*'''MARKED''': A card that is highlighted by a clue.
*'''UNMARKED''': A card that is not clued.
*'''CHOP''': The oldest, unmarked card. The card that you have no information on and will chop from your hand.
*'''DRAW''': The newest, unmarked card. The card that you have no information on and was freshly drawn.
*'''TO BOMB''': A play that causes the third misfire-token. Sometimes called '''EXPLOSION'''
*'''UNIQUE''': A card that has no copy (left) in the deck.
*'''DOUBLE DISCARD''': Discarding the (usually CHOP) card when it can be Unique (or the last copy of the card in the discard pile).
*'''DOUBLE SAVE''': To mark a card that is useless, because the copy of the card is already played, or marked.
*'''STRATEGY''': A set of rules / guidelines / conventions on how to interpret actions by players (including spending of clue-tokens).

== ELO rating ==
If you are playing with ELO rating on, your ELO may be changed at the end of the game.

Here is how it works:

#Every player on the team is temporarily considered as having the average ELO rating of the team.
#The system will generate a bot associated with the score your team has achieved (let’s call it '''Hanabot'''). Hanabot’s ELO rating depends on the variant you are playing (50 cards, 60 cards, 60 cards multicolor), the number of players on the team and, most importantly, your team's score. All Hanabot’s ELO ratings have been set by an experienced player, they are not random or simply proportional to the score/number of players.
#Your team (actually your team's average ELO) will now compete against Hanabot. The system will calculate your team’s ELO gain/loss as though your team had tied with Hanabot.

If your score is below 18 (50-card game) or below 21 (60-card game), Hanabot's ELO is always 1000.

<code>
You can find all bots' ELO ratings here: http://forum.boardgamearena.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=4814

The 55-card variant (50 cards + 1 of each value in the sixth color) cannot be played with ELO rating on. This is because this variant is highly dependent on draw and a team’s score may not always reflect the players’ skills.

If you achieve the perfect score and this should cost you ELO points, you will be considered as having beaten the bot associated with the score, so that you lose no ELO points.
</code> 
To be confirmed: I think the ELO-system has had an overhaul.

== About "cheating" ==
In the "real life Hanabi", you can talk. That's why we chose to let the chat open for the online version.

As a consequence, it is very easy to cheat at Hanabi. However, as you can imagine, cheating is very stupid and has no interest... except for ELO boosting. This is why there is no international ranking for this game (ie: best player, second best player) and no trophies associated to it.

==CONVENTIONS==
If you want to play "full information" style, meaning that you wait until you know both the colour and number of a card before you play it, you will likely be short on clue-tokens in >99% of the decks. The logical conclusion is, that you cannot play a full information style game, and the team must agree on some sort of convention. Meaning: a certain amount of meta-information is assigned to the clues.

Many players have different kinds of conventions. When different players in the same team assign different meta-information to the same clue, the game becomes unplayable. This is why the BGA table-settings give the option to set a table convention since the end of 2020. Please see this [https://boardgamearena.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=102&t=18031 post] started by [https://boardgamearena.com/player?id=84207926 Romain672]. Ideally, all players adhere to the convention, to avoid miscommunication.

Below, the meta-information of several conventions is explained. In the examples, colours are indicated by their first letter : R - Red -      , Y - Yellow -      , G - Green -      , B - Blue -      , W - White -      , M - Multi-colour -      , P - black Powder -      . For example, Y2 means the card with number 2 and colour yellow.

===Standard convention===
You can assume the following meta-information:
* Every card that gets marked, will be playable at some point.
* A card marked with a number, can be played when all "number-1" cards are played. (This is usually explained as: number-clues mean that these cards should be saved and played later on in the game. It is custom to play saved cards from oldest to newest.)
* A colour-clue means that the newest, previously unmarked card, is the next playable card in the sequence.
* The oldest, unmarked card is safe to discard. (Obviously, if a player has a card that he is sure he will never be able to play, for example a card on which is marked as blue when the blue pile has already been completed, such card must be discarded in priority.)

Clues you should avoid giving (bad clues):
* Giving a clue that marks 0 new cards.
* Give a clue that tells a lie (does not conform to the meta-information above).
* As a special remark: don't mark useless, or duplicate cards. So if you have a saved 4, you are forbidden from marking 4s, unless you are sure you are not holding a copy of that 4.

Sometimes, a "bad" clue can't be avoided. For example, when you need to save a unique 3 (using a number-clue) to avoid it being discarded. But you accidentally mark a useless card. Or if you are forced to give a colour-clue from a flamboyant, and you use it to mark 0 new cards.

When a lie has been told, it needs to be corrected. A correction-clue can never mean "play", it can only mean "discard".

Example 1:
new -> old
P1: R1, Y1, G1, B1, W1
P2: R2, Y4, R3, B3, G'''5'''
P3: G4, Y1, R4, Y3, Y2

Table: R1, Y5, G1, B3, W4

It's P1's turn, and P2 knows his oldest card is 5.
P1 will give R-clue to P2. This will tell P2, that the newest card is the next playable in the sequence (so must be R2), and that the other red can be R3, R4, or R5 (because it must be playable at some later point in the game).

Example 2:
new -> old
P1: R1, Y1, G1, B1, W1
P2: W5, Y4, '''R'''3, B3, G'''5'''
P3: W2, G4, Y1, R4, Y3

Table: R2, Y5, G1, B3, W4

It is P1's turn again, and P2 knows his oldest card is 5, and his middle card is R.
P1 will give R-clue to P3. This will tell P3, that his middle card is the next playable in the sequence (so must be R4, because R3 is already marked). This will give P2 the meta-information that his saved red card, is R3. (This particular move is sometimes called prompting, and is a common way to allow a card that is saved by colour to get played without re-cluing it.)

Example 3:
new -> old
P1: R1, Y1, G1, B1, W1
P2: R3, Y4, R'''2''', B3, G5
P3: G4, Y1, R4, Y3, Y2

Table: R1, Y5, G0, B3, W4

It is P1's turn, and P2 knows his middle card is 2.
P1 will give R-clue to P2. This will tell P2 that his newest card is the next playable in the sequence (so must be R3, because R2 is now visible with 100% information).

====''Finesse''====
Finesse is a more complex version of the standard convention. In the finesse convention, the timing of the clue gives you extra information.
You can assume the following meta-information:
* Every card that gets marked, will be playable at some point.
* If the oldest, unmarked card gets marked with a number-clue, then the clue meant "save this/these card(s)". (It is custom to play saved cards from oldest to newest when appropriate.)
* A clue that doesn't mark the oldest card, means that the newest, previously unmarked card, is the next playable card in the sequence.
* The oldest, unmarked card is safe to discard. (Obviously, if a player has a card that he is sure he will never be able to play, for example a card on which is marked as blue when the blue pile has already been completed, such card must be discarded in priority.)
* If more than 1 person are able to give the same clue, then the last possible person should give that clue.
* If a player gets skipped (P1 clues P3, instead of P2; then P2 is skipped), it means either:
*# The skipped player is forbidden from giving that clue; or
*# The skipped player has something to play.

Clues you should avoid giving (bad clues):
* Giving a clue that marks 0 new cards.
* Give a clue that tells a lie (does not conform to the meta-information above).
* As a special remark: don't mark useless, or duplicate cards. So if you have a saved 4, you are forbidden from marking 4s, unless you are sure you are not holding a copy of that 4.

Special interpretation for play-clues:
* When receiving a clue for the "next playable card in the sequence", the linking cards are not limited to already marked cards (like in standard convention). The newest, unmarked cards in every player's hand should be considered as well.

===== Example =====
new -> old
P1: ??, ??, ??, ??, ??
P2: B1, Y5, B3, W1, W2
P3: R5, R2, B2, G2, Y2

Table: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0

P1 gives B-clue to P3. This gives the information that B2 is the next playable card in the sequence, and that P2 is either not allowed to give B-clue, or has something to play. Since P2 has no marked cards, he was not blocked from giving B-clue, so he must have something to play. This something, must be the missing link (B1, to enable B2) that makes B2 the next playable card. Since there is no logical (marked) card that could be B1, P2 must assume his newest, unmarked card is B1 and blind-plays this card.

===== Example of reversed finesse =====
new -> old
P1: ??, ??, ??, ??, ??
P2: R5, R2, B2, G2, Y2
P3: B1, Y5, B3, W1, W2

Table: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0

P1 gives B-clue to P2. This gives the information that B2 is the next playable card in the sequence. P2 sees that the newest, unmarked card in the hand of P3 is of the same colour (blue) AND playable now. P2 concludes it is a finesse, with the players in reversed order, so his blue card must be B2.

===== Example of a bluff =====

new -> old
P1: ??, ??, ??, ??, ??
P2: W1, Y5, B3, W1, W2
P3: R5, R2, B2, G2, Y2

Table: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0

P1 gives B-clue to P3. This gives the information that B2 is the next playable card in the sequence, and that P2 is either not allowed to give B-clue, or has something to play. Since P2 has no marked cards, he was not blocked from giving B-clue, so he must have something to play. This something, must be the missing link (B1, to enable B2) that makes B2 the next playable card. Since there is no logical (marked) card that could be B1, P2 must assume his newest, unmarked card is B1 and blind-plays this card.

However, at this point the "lie" is revealed (because the colour of the played card does NOT match the colour of the finesse-clue). The blind-played card is NOT B1, but W1. P3, upto this point, was thinking he had B1. The blind-play of P2 gives him extra information: his blue card is in fact B2.

==== ''Off discard'' ====
It happens that in his turn a player no longer has a clue token and that a card must absolutely be played, it is then possible for him to discard another card than his card furthest to the right. This move tells the next player to play the card in the same position as the one that was discarded.

Example: it's player 1's turn, there are no more clue tokens, a 1B has already been played and a 2B card has already been discarded (in bold the clues known by the players):

#a? b? c? d? e?
#4Y 5R 2R 2B 2'''G'''
#2G 1'''B''' 5Y 3'''B''' 3W

Player 1 discards card d? instead of the e? card. This indicates to the player that he must play his card in the same position (therefore 2B), which avoids losing it and thus condemning the blue pile.

This movement is risky because the discarded card can be important or even blocking for the rest of the game. This movement should therefore only be used if there is no other solution.
It is up to the other players to make sure, before leaving a player without a clue token, that the card he could discard to give this clue is not essential for the rest of the game.

=== Hat-guessing ===

See https://github.com/hanabi/hanabi.github.io/blob/main/misc/hat-guessing.md.

=== Logical Leftism ===

See http://hanabilogic.eklablog.com/basics-level-1-a117610126 and http://hanabilogic.eklablog.com/logical-leftism-in-a-nutshell-a163408102.

=== Closest Friend ===

TODO

=== Secret convention ===

TODO

=== Conventional Leftism ===

http://hanabilogic.eklablog.com/ll-vs-cl-the-differences-a132077536 gives some clues, but doesn't explain Conventional Leftism from first principles.

=== Chop-focus ===

TODO

Gamehelphanabi

2021-04-19T02:43:24Z

Jyasskin: Fix up formatting of Finesse examples

Gamehelphanabi

2021-04-19T02:38:20Z

Jyasskin: Allow strategy information to line-wrap

== Introduction ==
Hanabi is a cooperative game. Your goal, as a team, is to build a fabulous fireworks show. You do this by playing the cards in the correct order. However, you cannot see your own cards; you can only see the cards of your team mates.

'''Final Score Ratings'''

{| class="wikitable"
|-
!Points
!Overall impression
|-
|5 or less
|horrible, booed by the crowd...
|-
|6-10
|mediocre, just a spattering of applause.
|-
|11-15
|honourable, but will not be remembered for very long...
|-
|16-20
|excellent, crowd pleasing.
|-
|21-24
|amazing, will be remembered for a very long time!
|-
|25
|legendary, everyone left speechless, stars in their eyes
|}

== Card distribution ==
In a game of Hanabi on NORMAL DIFFICULTY, the deck contains 50 cards. Each has exactly one colour: either Red, Yellow, Green, Blue, or White.

There are 10 cards in each colour:
* three 1s
* two 2s
* two 3s
* two 4s
* one 5

===Multicolour cards===
There are three variants that add a 6th colour: the multicolour.

# TRICKY DIFFICULTY adds 10 multicolour cards to the normal game. These cards get marked by a separate multicolour clue.
# HARD DIFFICULTY adds '''5''' multicolour cards to the normal game: one of each number. These cards get marked by a separate multicolour clue.
# VERY DIFFICULT DIFFICULTY adds 10 multicolour cards to the normal game. These cards get marked by ANY colour clue.

== Gameplay ==
You each take turns. During a turn, a player may take one (1) of three actions. After your action, the turn ends and it is the next player's turn.

The game can end in several ways:

#All cards have been drawn from the deck. After this happens, everybody gets 1 more turn. The game ends with the score at the last turn.
#Your team played all possible cards. In this case, the game ends immediately and you receive the maximum possible score.
#Your team made three mistakes that caused misfires. In this case, you lose the game and get negative ten (-10) points.
#Your team 'abandons' the game. Although discouraged, you receive zero (0) points.

== Turn ==
During your turn, you have one (1) action. You can choose to do one of the following:

#'''Give a colour or number clue to a teammate:''' This costs one clue-token (-1). You cannot give a clue if there are zero (0) clue-tokens left. When you give a clue, you must indicate ALL cards of a certain colour, or ALL cards of a certain number.
#'''Play a card:''' When a card is played, it is evaluated. If the card fits in one of sequences, it is placed in the appropriate colour stack on the table. If it does not, it is placed in the discard pile and the team gets a misfire-token.
#'''Discard a card:''' When you discard, the card is placed in the discard pile and you get a clue-token (+1). Note: cards on the discard pile are out of the game and can never return.

When you remove a card from your hand, by either playing or discarding, at the end of your turn, you draw a new card.

== Options ==

=== Black Powder ===

* You may not give clues regarding the colour black.
* Black cards must be played in reverse order, from 5 to 1.
* In the deck there are three black 5s, two black 4s, two black 3s, two black 2s, and one black 1.

=== Five Flamboyants ===

After playing the last card of a colour, randomly select one of the following bonuses for immediate use:

* Gain a clue token.
* Gain a clue token and recover a life.
* Give a clue regarding a colour.
* Give a clue regarding a number.
* Shuffle a discarded card into the deck.
* Play a discarded card, if possible.

== Lingo ==
When you play with others, certain words are used to describe certain objects or situations. Here is a short list.

*'''MARKED''': A card that is highlighted by a clue.
*'''UNMARKED''': A card that is not clued.
*'''CHOP''': The oldest, unmarked card. The card that you have no information on and will chop from your hand.
*'''DRAW''': The newest, unmarked card. The card that you have no information on and was freshly drawn.
*'''TO BOMB''': A play that causes the third misfire-token. Sometimes called '''EXPLOSION'''
*'''UNIQUE''': A card that has no copy (left) in the deck.
*'''DOUBLE DISCARD''': Discarding the (usually CHOP) card when it can be Unique (or the last copy of the card in the discard pile).
*'''DOUBLE SAVE''': To mark a card that is useless, because the copy of the card is already played, or marked.
*'''STRATEGY''': A set of rules / guidelines / conventions on how to interpret actions by players (including spending of clue-tokens).

== ELO rating ==
If you are playing with ELO rating on, your ELO may be changed at the end of the game.

Here is how it works:

#Every player on the team is temporarily considered as having the average ELO rating of the team.
#The system will generate a bot associated with the score your team has achieved (let’s call it '''Hanabot'''). Hanabot’s ELO rating depends on the variant you are playing (50 cards, 60 cards, 60 cards multicolor), the number of players on the team and, most importantly, your team's score. All Hanabot’s ELO ratings have been set by an experienced player, they are not random or simply proportional to the score/number of players.
#Your team (actually your team's average ELO) will now compete against Hanabot. The system will calculate your team’s ELO gain/loss as though your team had tied with Hanabot.

If your score is below 18 (50-card game) or below 21 (60-card game), Hanabot's ELO is always 1000.

<code>
You can find all bots' ELO ratings here: http://forum.boardgamearena.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=4814

The 55-card variant (50 cards + 1 of each value in the sixth color) cannot be played with ELO rating on. This is because this variant is highly dependent on draw and a team’s score may not always reflect the players’ skills.

If you achieve the perfect score and this should cost you ELO points, you will be considered as having beaten the bot associated with the score, so that you lose no ELO points.
</code> 
To be confirmed: I think the ELO-system has had an overhaul.

== About "cheating" ==
In the "real life Hanabi", you can talk. That's why we chose to let the chat open for the online version.

As a consequence, it is very easy to cheat at Hanabi. However, as you can imagine, cheating is very stupid and has no interest... except for ELO boosting. This is why there is no international ranking for this game (ie: best player, second best player) and no trophies associated to it.

==CONVENTIONS==
If you want to play "full information" style, meaning that you wait until you know both the colour and number of a card before you play it, you will likely be short on clue-tokens in >99% of the decks. The logical conclusion is, that you cannot play a full information style game, and the team must agree on some sort of convention. Meaning: a certain amount of meta-information is assigned to the clues.

Many players have different kinds of conventions. When different players in the same team assign different meta-information to the same clue, the game becomes unplayable. This is why the BGA table-settings give the option to set a table convention since the end of 2020. Please see this [https://boardgamearena.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=102&t=18031 post] started by [https://boardgamearena.com/player?id=84207926 Romain672]. Ideally, all players adhere to the convention, to avoid miscommunication.

Below, the meta-information of several conventions is explained. In the examples, colours are indicated by their first letter : R - Red -      , Y - Yellow -      , G - Green -      , B - Blue -      , W - White -      , M - Multi-colour -      , P - black Powder -      . For example, Y2 means the card with number 2 and colour yellow.

===Standard convention===
You can assume the following meta-information:
* Every card that gets marked, will be playable at some point.
* A card marked with a number, can be played when all "number-1" cards are played. (This is usually explained as: number-clues mean that these cards should be saved and played later on in the game. It is custom to play saved cards from oldest to newest.)
* A colour-clue means that the newest, previously unmarked card, is the next playable card in the sequence.
* The oldest, unmarked card is safe to discard. (Obviously, if a player has a card that he is sure he will never be able to play, for example a card on which is marked as blue when the blue pile has already been completed, such card must be discarded in priority.)

Clues you should avoid giving (bad clues):
* Giving a clue that marks 0 new cards.
* Give a clue that tells a lie (does not conform to the meta-information above).
* As a special remark: don't mark useless, or duplicate cards. So if you have a saved 4, you are forbidden from marking 4s, unless you are sure you are not holding a copy of that 4.

Sometimes, a "bad" clue can't be avoided. For example, when you need to save a unique 3 (using a number-clue) to avoid it being discarded. But you accidentally mark a useless card. Or if you are forced to give a colour-clue from a flamboyant, and you use it to mark 0 new cards.

When a lie has been told, it needs to be corrected. A correction-clue can never mean "play", it can only mean "discard".

Example 1:
new -> old
P1: R1, Y1, G1, B1, W1
P2: R2, Y4, R3, B3, G'''5'''
P3: G4, Y1, R4, Y3, Y2

Table: R1, Y5, G1, B3, W4

It's P1's turn, and P2 knows his oldest card is 5.
P1 will give R-clue to P2. This will tell P2, that the newest card is the next playable in the sequence (so must be R2), and that the other red can be R3, R4, or R5 (because it must be playable at some later point in the game).

Example 2:
new -> old
P1: R1, Y1, G1, B1, W1
P2: W5, Y4, '''R'''3, B3, G'''5'''
P3: W2, G4, Y1, R4, Y3

Table: R2, Y5, G1, B3, W4

It is P1's turn again, and P2 knows his oldest card is 5, and his middle card is R.
P1 will give R-clue to P3. This will tell P3, that his middle card is the next playable in the sequence (so must be R4, because R3 is already marked). This will give P2 the meta-information that his saved red card, is R3. (This particular move is sometimes called prompting, and is a common way to allow a card that is saved by colour to get played without re-cluing it.)

Example 3:
new -> old
P1: R1, Y1, G1, B1, W1
P2: R3, Y4, R'''2''', B3, G5
P3: G4, Y1, R4, Y3, Y2

Table: R1, Y5, G0, B3, W4

It is P1's turn, and P2 knows his middle card is 2.
P1 will give R-clue to P2. This will tell P2 that his newest card is the next playable in the sequence (so must be R3, because R2 is now visible with 100% information).

====''Finesse''====
Finesse is a more complex version of the standard convention. In the finesse convention, the timing of the clue gives you extra information.
You can assume the following meta-information:
* Every card that gets marked, will be playable at some point.
* If the oldest, unmarked card gets marked with a number-clue, then the clue meant "save this/these card(s)". (It is custom to play saved cards from oldest to newest when appropriate.)
* A clue that doesn't mark the oldest card, means that the newest, previously unmarked card, is the next playable card in the sequence.
* The oldest, unmarked card is safe to discard. (Obviously, if a player has a card that he is sure he will never be able to play, for example a card on which is marked as blue when the blue pile has already been completed, such card must be discarded in priority.)
* If more than 1 person are able to give the same clue, then the last possible person should give that clue.
* If a player gets skipped (P1 clues P3, instead of P2; then P2 is skipped), it means either:
*# The skipped player is forbidden from giving that clue; or
*# The skipped player has something to play.

Clues you should avoid giving (bad clues):
* Giving a clue that marks 0 new cards.
* Give a clue that tells a lie (does not conform to the meta-information above).
* As a special remark: don't mark useless, or duplicate cards. So if you have a saved 4, you are forbidden from marking 4s, unless you are sure you are not holding a copy of that 4.

Special interpretation for play-clues:
* When receiving a clue for the "next playable card in the sequence", the linking cards are not limited to already marked cards (like in standard convention). The newest, unmarked cards in every player's hand should be considered as well.
a) Finesse
new -> old
P1: ??, ??, ??, ??, ??
P2: B1, Y5, B3, W1, W2
P3: R5, R2, B2, G2, Y2

Table: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0

P1 gives B-clue to P3. This gives the information that B2 is the next playable card in the sequence, and that P2 is either not allowed to give B-clue, or has something to play. Since P2 has no marked cards, he was not blocked from giving B-clue, so he must have something to play. This something, must be the missing link (B1, to enable B2) that makes B2 the next playable card. Since there is no logical (marked) card that could be B1, P2 must assume his newest, unmarked card is B1 and blind-plays this card.

b) Reversed finesse
new -> old
P1: ??, ??, ??, ??, ??
P2: R5, R2, B2, G2, Y2
P3: B1, Y5, B3, W1, W2

Table: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0

P1 gives B-clue to P2. This gives the information that B2 is the next playable card in the sequence. P2 sees that the newest, unmarked card in the hand of P3 is of the same colour (blue) AND playable now. P2 concludes it is a finesse, with the players in reversed order, so his blue card must be B2.

c) Bluff
new -> old
P1: ??, ??, ??, ??, ??
P2: W1, Y5, B3, W1, W2
P3: R5, R2, B2, G2, Y2

Table: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0

P1 gives B-clue to P3. This gives the information that B2 is the next playable card in the sequence, and that P2 is either not allowed to give B-clue, or has something to play. Since P2 has no marked cards, he was not blocked from giving B-clue, so he must have something to play. This something, must be the missing link (B1, to enable B2) that makes B2 the next playable card. Since there is no logical (marked) card that could be B1, P2 must assume his newest, unmarked card is B1 and blind-plays this card.

However, at this point the "lie" is revealed (because the colour of the played card does NOT match the colour of the finesse-clue). The blind-played card is NOT B1, but W1. P3, upto this point, was thinking he had B1. The blind-play of P2 gives him extra information: his blue card is in fact B2.

==== ''Off discard'' ====
It happens that in his turn a player no longer has a clue token and that a card must absolutely be played, it is then possible for him to discard another card than his card furthest to the right. This move tells the next player to play the card in the same position as the one that was discarded.

Example: it's player 1's turn, there are no more clue tokens, a 1B has already been played and a 2B card has already been discarded (in bold the clues known by the players):

#a? b? c? d? e?
#4Y 5R 2R 2B 2'''G'''
#2G 1'''B''' 5Y 3'''B''' 3W

Player 1 discards card d? instead of the e? card. This indicates to the player that he must play his card in the same position (therefore 2B), which avoids losing it and thus condemning the blue pile.

This movement is risky because the discarded card can be important or even blocking for the rest of the game. This movement should therefore only be used if there is no other solution.
It is up to the other players to make sure, before leaving a player without a clue token, that the card he could discard to give this clue is not essential for the rest of the game.