Board Game Arena - User contributions [en]

Tips loveletter

2021-10-20T08:10:32Z

Henrik303: /* STRATEGY */

'''Note: Please play a game of Love Letter before reading this ''Tips and Tricks'' guide. It will help you understand this article better.'''

== STRATEGY ==

This is no single strategy for Love Letter which is the beauty of the game

Each card has its own strengths and weaknesses dependant on the stage of the game and more importantly, your opponents hand

As the game progresses, keep an eye on the cards which have already been played – this can be seen in the number indicator below each players hand.
By working out which cards remain you can plan you strategy and narrow down what cards your opponents are likely holding to counter their plays

===Guard (x5)===

In the early game, using a Guard can provide a lucky guess to remove an opponent. To successfully increase odds players will often guess lower card (2-5 cards each appears twice) at the start of the game for a higher probability of success. Guards can be used to defend a weak position, ie. by trying to remove Prince's if you have the Princess or Barons if you have a lower card. However, using the same strategy many times will often reveal your weakness so mix it up!

'''Strengths:'''
: Play late game when fewer cards remain for a high probability of a successful guess
: Use after a Priest has been played and the player hasn't discarded the revealed card
: Cannot be guessed by other guards
: Reveal an opponents Princess to remove them from the round

'''Weakness:'''
: Guards are an easy target for Barons. Avoid holding guards too long if there are still 2 Barons to be revealed
: Minimal chance of winning at the end of the game if you are holding a Guard

'''Strategy:'''
: Mix you guesses and base them on all the information revealed in the round
: Pay attention to what cards have been played and refer to the key for the number of each card available
: Cards which have 2 copies which have yet to be revealed in the mid game can be easy targets for a Guard

===Priest (x2)===

Using a Priest reveals more information to narrow down remaining cards. Once a card is known it puts pressure on players to use the revealed card on their next turn to prevent a guard being used

'''Strengths:'''
: Forces opponents to play 'known' cards

'''Weakness:'''
: If the opponent reveals a Baron they will often play it against you on their next turn as a make or break move which can put you out of the round if you hold a high card

'''Strategy:'''
: Use Priests to force players to change their hand
: Play a Priest in the mid game to locate the Princess or force play of a higher card

===Baron (x2)===

The Baron is very strong in the early game when combined with a mid to strong card to defeat an opponent.
When using a Baron however you will potentially reveal information about yourself to your opponents if you win the duel

'''Strengths:'''
: Play in the early game alongside a 4+ card to defeat opponents who are more likely to be holding guards or lower cards
: A quick way to win the round when you only have one opponent remaining and hold a high

'''Weakness:'''
: Using a baron will reveal the range of your card ie. > Prince (5). This will narrow down guesses or make opponents play Prince's on you to defeat a suspected Princess
: If your card is not higher than you opponents you are out of the round (however this can also weaken their position if there are other players to play before them based on the above point)

'''Strategy:'''
: Try to ensure you discard a card which was higher than your opponents by your next turn so other players think your winning card has been used to prevent them from knowing the range of your card (this could be the card you pick up on your next turn or the forced discard from a prince)
: If a Priest is played against you and you hold a Baron you may need to take out the opponent who has seen your card on your next turn

===Handmaid (x2)===

The Handmaids strength comes in ensuring you survive the round. You can't win if you are out after all!

'''Strengths:'''
: Ensure you last longer in the game when there are less cards available
: Force opponents to target each other to possibly defeat and increase your chances of winning the round
: Protecting a high card in the end game to prevent guards being played or prince's if you are holding the princess
: Buying yourself time if someone knows your card, but you don't have the right cards to deal with it at that moment.

'''Weakness:'''
: Less powerful in the end game than the high cards available
: Does not allow you to knock out another player

'''Strategy:'''
: Use early game to narrow down the cards and protect yourself
: Use in late game to hold the Princess (or another high card)
: As there are still a lot of players in the game, and not a lot is known about the remaining cards yet you are less likely to be knocked out early in the round. Making the handmaid more powerful later in the round.

===Prince (x2)===

The Prince is the highest of the cards appearing twice in the deck and a big threat to anyone holding the Princess

'''Strengths:'''
: Play on an opponent who you suspect has a Princess to defeat them
: Remove a card from your opponents hand (early game to mix up their hand or late game to remove a higher card they may be holding)

'''Weakness:'''
: Often guessed when guards are played are there are still 2 Prince's to be played
: In a 1 on 1 situation, if your opponent has played a Handmaid you may be forced to play the Prince against yourself to discard your own card (Princess included!)

'''Strategy:'''
: Play against players you suspect hold a strong card (especially the Princess to remove them from the round)
: Play on yourself to get a new card and discard both your cards
: Remove a high card an opponent is holding in the late game to increase your chances of winning the round

===King (x1)===

The King is a hard card to play as it means giving away your position to an opponent but can be the difference at the end of the round to grasp a last second win

'''Strengths:'''
: Remove the Princess from your hand in the early rounds to prevent you being a target and give it to another player
: Switch cards at the end of the game to gets a higher card from an opponent
: Strong when used with a Baron with less chance of being guessed then a Prince or the Princess

'''Weakness:'''
: When you play the King played your opponent will know what your new card is making you an easy target for a guard

'''Strategy:'''
: Always pay attention to what your own card is in between plays. If a King is used on you you'll want to remember what card you gave them!
: Holding a King till the end of the round can allow you switch cards with your opponent to grab the Countess of Princess however, if you hold a King and then draw the Princess you'll be forced to give it to your opponent!

===Countess (x1)===

A high powered card which holds less risk than the Princess early game but a high risk if you draw a Prince or King which forces you to play the Countess revealing your likely other card

'''Strengths:'''
: High card for the end game. Only beaten by the Princess
: Strong when used with a Baron with less chance of being guessed then a Prince or the Princess

'''Weakness:'''
: If you draw a Prince or a King you will be forced to play this card revealing that you likely hold a Prince or a King

'''Strategy:'''
: Play the Countess when you don't hold a Prince or a King to reduce the chance of a guard being successfully used on you
: Hold near the end game if a Princess has been played or in the hope the Princess will found before the end of the round

===Princess (x1)===

The strongest card at the end of the round but you'll be the main target if your opponents suspect you hold it. High risk, high reward!

'''Strengths:'''
: Highest card in the game. If you can get to the end of the round with the Princess you've won
: Guaranteed win when used with a Baron

'''Weakness:'''
: If you draw the Princess in the early game it can be very hard to keep it hidden and evade guesses
: If an opponent play a Priest when you hold a Princess you won't be able to play it and can easily be guessed on their next turn if they play a Guard
: You will always have to play your second card so drawing a Prince will force you to play the Princess and be out of the round

'''Strategy:'''
: Use a Handmaid to protect the Princess especially in the late game
: Swap the Princess using a King in the early game to allow you to then target your opponent
: When playing a Guard, don't be afraid to accuse another player of being the Princess to try take suspicions away from you

===Probability===

To give an idea of the probability your opponent holding a given card you can refer to the table below by:

: Looking at the horizontal row based on the number of remaining cards in the round + the number of active players left in the round (including yourself – your opponents each hold an unknown card and there was a card removed)
: For cards with multiple copies look at the probability column based on the number of these cards which not been played or are not held in your own hand

For example:
: In a 4 player game with 5 cards remaining in the deck and all players still active
: You hold a Baron and a Guard and no Prince's or other Barons have been played.
: There are 9 other possible cards: 5 in the deck + 4 active players (3 unknown cards held by opponents and the 1 discarded)
: There is a 11.1% chance a given opponents holds a Baron (since you hold one so only one other remains)
: There is a 22.2% chance an opponents holds a Prince (there are 2 possible Prince's remaining)

If you have an idea of the range of the card you opponent holds this can provide you a better idea than the basic probability of a player having a given card based on the number of cards remaining

[[File:LoveLetter.PNG]]

===General Tips===
: The game is won after you win 4 (4 players) or 5 rounds (3 players). If one player is closer to winning, try remove them from the round to prevent them winning or gaining a bigger lead. It does not necessarily matter if you don't win the round, just as long as someone doesn't win the game at the end of it!
: Pay attention to which cards have been played and what guesses have been made by your opponents to try work out what cards they may or do not have
: A random guess at the start of the round happens! Sometimes you'll be the lucky guesser, other times you'll be on the receiving end. If this happens forget it and more on to the next round
: Remember that a card is removed at the start of the round so there may not always be a Princess for example
: If someone doesn't have a large lead don't target them every turn. You'll only end up being on the receiving end of their cards so mix it up
: Adapt based on what has already being played! If the Princess has been revealed, the Countess is now the highest card for the end game. If both Princes have been played the Princess has no chance of being discarded by an opponent's card play. If both Barons have been played your guard is a lot safer. Play the game, see what happens, learn and have fun!

LPB – 10/5/2020

== Notes ==
¹ There is only 1 King, Countess, and Princess per game. Therefore, there cannot be multiples of these cards.

Tips loveletter

2021-10-20T08:08:38Z

Henrik303: /* STRATEGY */

Tips loveletter

2021-10-19T22:04:34Z

Henrik303: /* STRATEGY */ spelling

'''Note: Please play a game of Love Letter before reading this ''Tips and Tricks'' guide. It will help you understand this article better.'''

== STRATEGY ==

This is no single strategy for Love Letter which is the beauty of the game

Each card has its own strengths and weaknesses dependant on the stage of the game and more importantly, your opponents hand

As the game progresses, keep an eye on the cards which have already been played – this can be seen in the number indicator below each players hand.
By working out which cards remain you can plan you strategy and narrow down what cards your opponents are likely holding to counter their plays

'''Guard (x5)'''

In the early game, using a Guard can provide a lucky guess to remove an opponent. To successfully increase odds players will often guess lower card (2-5 cards each appears twice) at the start of the game for a higher probability of success. Guards can be used to defend a weak position, ie. by trying to remove Prince's if you have the Princess or Barons if you have a lower card. However, using the same strategy many times will often reveal your weakness so mix it up!

Strengths:
* Play late game when fewer cards remain for a high probability of a successful guess
* Use after a Priest has been played and the player hasn't discarded the revealed card
* Cannot be guessed by other guards
* Reveal an opponents Princess to remove them from the round

Weakness:
* Guards are an easy target for Barons. Avoid holding guards too long if there are still 2 Barons to be revealed
* Minimal chance of winning at the end of the game if you are holding a Guard

Strategy:
* Mix you guesses and base them on all the information revealed in the round
* Pay attention to what cards have been played and refer to the key for the number of each card available
* Cards which have 2 copies which have yet to be revealed in the mid game can be easy targets for a Guard

'''Priest (x2)'''

Using a Priest reveals more information to narrow down remaining cards. Once a card is known it puts pressure on players to use the revealed card on their next turn to prevent a guard being used

Strengths:
* Forces opponents to play 'know' cards

Weakness:
* If the opponent reveals a Baron they will often play it against you on their next turn as a make or break move which can put you out of the round if you hold a high card

Strategy:
* Use Priests to force players to change their hand
* Play a Priest in the mid game to locate the Princess or force play of a higher card

'''Baron (x2)'''

The Baron is very strong in the early game when combined with a mid to strong card to defeat an opponent.
When using a Baron however you will potentially reveal information about yourself to your opponents if you win the duel

Strengths:
* Play in the early game alongside a 4+ card to defeat opponents who are more likely to be holding guards or lower cards
* A quick way to win the round when you only have one opponent remaining and hold a high

Weakness:
* Using a baron will reveal the range of your card ie. > Prince (5). This will narrow down guesses or make opponents play Prince's on you to defeat a suspected Princess
* If your card is not higher than you opponents you are out of the round (however this can also weaken their position if there are other players to play before them based on the above point)

Strategy:
* Try to ensure you discard a card which was higher than your opponents by your next turn so other players think your winning card has been used to prevent them from knowing the range of your card (this could be the card you pick up on your next turn or the forced discard from a prince)
* If a Priest is played against you and you hold a Baron you may need to take out the opponent who has seen your card on your next turn

'''Handmaid (x2)'''

The Handmaids strength comes in ensuring you survive the round. You can't win if you are out after all!

Strengths:
* Ensure you last longer in the game when there are less cards available
* Force opponents to target each other to possibly defeat and increase your chances of winning the round
* Protecting a high card in the end game to prevent guards being played or prince's if you are holding the princess
* Buying yourself time if someone knows your card, but you don't have the right cards to deal with it at that moment.

Weakness:
* Less powerful in the end game than the high cards available
* Does not allow you to knock out another player

Strategy:
* Use early game to narrow down the cards and protect yourself
* Use in late game to hold the Princess (or another high card)
* As there are still a lot of players in the game, and not a lot is known about the remaining cards yet you are less likely to be knocked out early in the round. Making the handmaid more powerful later in the round.

'''Prince (x2)'''

The Prince is the highest of the cards appearing twice in the deck and a big threat to anyone holding the Princess

Strengths:
* Play on an opponent who you suspect has a Princess to defeat them
* Remove a card from your opponents hand (early game to mix up their hand or late game to remove a higher card they may be holding)

Weakness:
* Often guessed when guards are played are there are still 2 Prince's to be played
* In a 1 on 1 situation, if your opponent has played a Handmaid you may be forced to play the Prince against yourself to discard your own card (Princess included!)

Strategy:
* Play against players you suspect hold a strong card (especially the Princess to remove them from the round)
* Play on yourself to get a new card and discard both your cards
* Remove a high card an opponent is holding in the late game to increase your chances of winning the round

'''King (x1)'''

The King is a hard card to play as it means giving away your position to an opponent but can be the difference at the end of the round to grasp a last second win

Strengths:
* Remove the Princess from your hand in the early rounds to prevent you being a target and give it to another player
* Switch cards at the end of the game to gets a higher card from an opponent
* Strong when used with a Baron with less chance of being guessed then a Prince or the Princess

Weakness:
* When you play the King played your opponent will know what your new card is making you an easy target for a guard

Strategy:
* Always pay attention to what your own card is in between plays. If a King is used on you you'll want to remember what card you gave them!
* Holding a King till the end of the round can allow you switch cards with your opponent to grab the Countess of Princess however, if you hold a King and then draw the Princess you'll be forced to give it to your opponent!

'''Countess (x1)'''

A high powered card which holds less risk than the Princess early game but a high risk if you draw a Prince or King which forces you to play the Countess revealing your likely other card

Strengths:
* High card for the end game. Only beaten by the Princess
* Strong when used with a Baron with less chance of being guessed then a Prince or the Princess

Weakness:
* If you draw a Prince or a King you will be forced to play this card revealing that you likely hold a Prince or a King

Strategy:
* Play the Countess when you don't hold a Prince or a King to reduce the chance of a guard being successfully used on you
* Hold near the end game if a Princess has been played or in the hope the Princess will found before the end of the round

'''Princess (x1)'''

The strongest card at the end of the round but you'll be the main target if your opponents suspect you hold it. High risk, high reward!

Strengths:
* Highest card in the game. If you can get to the end of the round with the Princess you've won
* Guaranteed win when used with a Baron

Weakness:
* If you draw the Princess in the early game it can be very hard to keep it hidden and evade guesses
* If an opponent play a Priest when you hold a Princess you won't be able to play it and can easily be guessed on their next turn if they play a Guard
* You will always have to play your second card so drawing a Prince will force you to play the Princess and be out of the round

Strategy:
* Use a Handmaid to protect the Princess especially in the late game
* Swap the Princess using a King in the early game to allow you to then target your opponent
* When playing a Guard, don't be afraid to accuse another player of being the Princess to try take suspicions away from you

'''Probability'''

To give an idea of the probability your opponent holding a given card you can refer to the table below by:

* Looking at the horizontal row based on the number of remaining cards in the round + the number of active players left in the round (including yourself – your opponents each hold an unknown card and there was a card removed)
* For cards with multiple copies look at the probability column based on the number of these cards which not been played or are not held in your own hand

For example:
* In a 4 player game with 5 cards remaining in the deck and all players still active
* You hold a Baron and a Guard and no Prince's or other Barons have been played.
* There are 9 other possible cards: 5 in the deck + 4 active players (3 unknown cards held by opponents and the 1 discarded)
* There is a 11.1% chance a given opponents holds a Baron (since you hold one so only one other remains)
* There is a 22.2% chance an opponents holds a Prince (there are 2 possible Prince's remaining)

If you have an idea of the range of the card you opponent holds this can provide you a better idea than the basic probability of a player having a given card based on the number of cards remaining

[[File:LoveLetter.PNG]]

'''General Tips'''
* The game is won after you win 4 (4 players) or 5 rounds (3 players). If one player is closer to winning, try remove them from the round to prevent them winning or gaining a bigger lead. It does not necessarily matter if you don't win the round, just as long as someone doesn't win the game at the end of it!
* Pay attention to which cards have been played and what guesses have been made by your opponents to try work out what cards they may or do not have
* A random guess at the start of the round happens! Sometimes you'll be the lucky guesser, other times you'll be on the receiving end. If this happens forget it and more on to the next round
* Remember that a card is removed at the start of the round so there may not always be a Princess for example
* If someone doesn't have a large lead don't target them every turn. You'll only end up being on the receiving end of their cards so mix it up
* Adapt based on what has already being played! If the Princess has been revealed, the Countess is now the highest card for the end game. If both Princes have been played the Princess has no chance of being discarded by an opponent's card play. If both Barons have been played your guard is a lot safer. Play the game, see what happens, learn and have fun!

LPB – 10/5/2020

== Notes ==
¹ There is only 1 King, Countess, and Princess per game. Therefore, there cannot be multiples of these cards.

Gamehelpcarcassonnehuntersandgatherers

2021-10-09T01:15:49Z

Henrik303: consistency

== Aim of the game ==

Score the most points by fishing, gathering and hunting. You score with meeples during different times during the game, while huts only score at the end of the game.
The game ends when all normal tiles are expended and someone is not able to play a normal tile.

== Game-play ==

Draw a single tile, decide where to place it on the board rotating it as needed.
* Consider placing a meeple (fisher, gatherer, and hunter) or a hut (fishing village on streams only) on an available forest, grassland, river or lake created by the above tile ''and/or''
* Close off a stream or forest to score immediate points (for you and/or others). When closing a forest with a ''menhir'', collect a bonus tile and continue your turn by placing the bonus tile. (You may only gain a single bonus tile per turn.)

== Place a Tile ==

At the beginning of the game and at the end of your turn draw a tile, if available.

At the beginning of your turn place the tile and then decide if you will place a meeple or hut.

''If you are unable to place the tile, your turn ends.''

== Place a Meeple or Hut ==

Meeple perform different roles depending on how they are placed on the tile. They are placed standing up when performing fisher and gatherer roles and laying down when acting as hunters. Fishers and gatherers only score during the game while hunters and huts only score at the end of the game.

''You may only place a meeple (or a hut) on an unoccupied feature (river, forest or grassland) – no other meeple or huts can be in the same connected feature.'' Features can be joined up by later tiles so that they contain multiple meeples, however: in such a case, only the player with the most meeples in it scores it. (If tied, both score it.)

=== Fisher ===

*Fishers are placed on streams (including those at the sides of lakes). They score once the stream has a lake or river-end on each side of the fisher.
*They score one point for each length of the river, plus the total number fish in the rivers and lakes that make up their route.
*After being scored the fisher returns to the owner's pool.

=== Gatherer ===

*Gatherers are placed on forests.
*The gatherer scores when the forest is surrounded by grassland with no tile gaps in the interior: the player scores two points for each tile comprising that forest. (If a forest includes multiple parts on the same tile which aren't joined up on that tile, yet are all joined up by the forest, each part on the tile is scored separately.)
*After being scored the gatherer returns to the owner's pool.

=== Hunter – End Game Scoring ===

Hunters are placed flat on the board (not standing): they collect points at the end of the game so never return to the owner's pool. The formula for scoring is as follows:
# Score one point (1) for each deer in the grassland
# Subtract one point (-1) for each tiger in the grassland up to the maximum deer – ''unless the bonus fire tile is in the same grassland in which case all tigers are ignored''
# Score two (2) points for each aurochs (ancient cows) – these are never reduced by tigers
# Score three (3) for each mammoth in the grassland – these are never reduced by tigers

=== Huts – End Game Scoring ===
Huts are placed in streams or lakes. At the end of the game you score one point for each fish in the river system the hut connects to.

== Menhirs ==
Some forests contain menhirs (large grey stones).

If a player closes off the forest with a menhir in it, and that forest also has at least one meeple in it (belonging to any player), the player who closed the forest immediately takes another bonus turn, drawing a bonus tile from the sixteen (16) available. ''If the bonus tiles are all used up no bonus turn is granted.''

=== Bonus Tiles ===

There are sixteen bonus tiles, typically they will have more animals and more fish, while certain ones have additional abilities:

; '''Mushrooms''' (two enhanced forest tiles)
: A forest with mushrooms that is closed gives three (3) points for each mushroom tile in it.

; '''Logboat''' (A lake with a person in a kayak)
: When you place the logboat you immediately score two (2) points for each lake in this tile’s river system, including this tile. Huts owned by others do not affect the value (and do not get the bonus points).

; '''Hunting Trap''' (two hunters with trap between them)
: You immediately score up to the eight surrounding tiles animals (see Hunter scoring above) – in the same grassland – in addition these animals '''will not''' count for end of game scoring.

; '''Shaman''' (person in upper left + river + forest)
: You may immediately return one of your meeple to your pool – this meeple does not score for the area they were removed from.

; '''Wildfire''' (grassland with tiger and flames) – End of game scoring
: All tigers do not count against deer totals in the grassland where the wildfire is connected to.

; '''Pit Trap''' (black pit with spikes) – End of game scoring
: All animals in the surrounding eight tiles in this grassland score double for hunters. Tigers still remove deer like normal, but if a tiger can eat a less valuable deer (outside of the eight tiles) that deer will be selected instead.

; '''The Raft''' (three way lake with raft in upper right) – End of game scoring
: This river system scores an additional point for each lake in the river system.

== End of Game ==
Game ends when there are no more standard tiles to be played. At this point any forests or rivers that have meeples on them ''score nothing''.

=== Scoring hunters and grasslands ===
Each hunter scores points based on the animals on its grassland.
# Score one point (1) for each deer in the grassland
# Subtract one point (-1) for each tiger in the grassland up to the maximum deer – ''unless the bonus fire tile is in the same field in which case all tigers are ignored''
# Score two (2) points for each aurochs (ancient cows) – these are never reduced by tigers
# Score three (3) for each mammoth in the grassland – these are never reduced by tigers
If multiple players are tied for the most hunters on a grassland, each tied player scores the full points from that grassland. However, if one player has the most hunters, only they score from that grassland.

=== Scoring huts on river systems ===
The player with the most huts on each river system scores 1 point for each fish shown in that river system.

If multiple players are tied for the most huts, each tied player scores the full points for that river system.

River systems do not need to be complete to be scored.

=== The player with the most points wins the game! ===
In the event of a tie, the tied players share the victory.

Gamehelpcarcassonnehuntersandgatherers

2021-10-09T00:51:17Z

Henrik303: /* Bonus Tiles */ in same grassland

== Aim of the game ==

Score the most points by fishing, gathering and hunting. You score with meeples during different times during the game, while huts only score at the end of the game.
The game ends when all normal tiles are expended and someone is not able to play a normal tile.

== Game-play ==

: Draw a single tile, decide where to place it on the board rotating it as needed
:* Consider placing a meeple (fisher, gatherer, and hunter) or a hut (fishing village on streams only) on an available forest, grassland, river or lake created by the above tile ''and/or''
:* Close off a stream or forest to score immediate points (for you and/or others). When closing some forest collect a bonus tile and repeat your turn with placing the bonus tile. (You may only gain a single bonus tile per turn.)

== Place a Tile ==

At the beginning of the game and at the end of your turn draw a tile, if available.

At the beginning of your turn place the tile and then decide if you will place a meeple or hut.

''If you are unable to place the tile, your turn ends.''

== Place a Meeple or Hut ==

Meeple perform different roles depending on how they are placed on the tile. They are placed standing up when performing fisher and gatherer roles and laying down when acting as hunters. Fishers and gatherers only score during the game while hunters and huts only score at the end of the game.

''You may only place a meeple (or a hut) on an unoccupied feature (river, forest or grassland) - no other meeple or huts can be in the same connected feature.'' Features can be joined up by later tiles so that they contain multiple meeples, however: in such a case, only the player with the most meeples in it scores it. (If tied, both score it.)

=== Fisher ===

*Fishers are placed on streams (including those at the sides of lakes). They score once the stream has a lake or river-end on each side of the fisher
*They score one point for each length of the river, plus the total number fish in the rivers and lakes that make up their route
*After being scored the fisher returns to the owner's pool

=== Gatherer ===

*Gatherers are placed on forests.
*The gatherer scores when the forest is surrounded by grassland with no tile gaps in the interior: the player scores two points for each tile comprising that forest. (If a forest includes multiple parts on the same tile which aren't joined up on that tile, yet are all joined up by the forest, each part on the tile is scored separately.)
*After being scored the gatherer returns to the owner's pool

=== Hunter - End Game Scoring ===

Hunters are placed flat on the board (not standing): they collect points at the end of the game so never return to the owner's hand. The formula for scoring is as follows:
# Score one point (1) for each deer in the grassland
# Subtract one point (-1) for each tiger in the grassland up to the maximum deer - ''unless the bonus fire tile is in the same field in which case all tigers are not counted against the hunter(s)''
# Score two (2) points for each aurochs (ancient cows) - these are never reduced by tigers
# Score three (3) for each mammoth in the grassland - these are never reduced by tigers

=== Huts - End Game Scoring ===
Huts are placed in streams or lakes. At the end of the game you score one point for each fish in the river system the hut connects to.

=== Menhirs ===
Some forests contain menhirs (large grey stones).

If a player closes off the forest with a menhir in it, and that forest also has at least one meeple in it (belonging to any player), the player who closed the forest immediately takes another bonus turn, drawing a bonus tile from the sixteen (16) available. ''If the bonus tiles are all used up no bonus turn is granted.''

== Bonus Tiles ==

There are sixteen bonus tiles, typically they will have more animals and more fish while certain ones have additional abilities listed below

; '''Mushrooms''' (two enhanced forest tiles)
: A forest with mushrooms that is closed gives three (3) points for each mushroom tile in it.

; '''Logboat''' (A lake with a person in a kayak)
: When you place the logboat you immediately score two (2) points for each lake in this tile’s river system, including this tile. Huts owned by others do not affect the value (and do not get the bonus points).

; '''Hunting Trap''' (two hunters with trap between them)
: You immediately score up to the eight surrounding tiles animals (see Hunter scoring above) - in the same grassland - in addition these animals '''will not''' count for end of game scoring.

; '''Shaman''' (person in upper left + river + forest)
: You may immediately return one of your meeple to your pool - this meeple does not score for the area they were removed from.

; '''Wildfire''' (grassland with tiger and flames) - End of game scoring
: All tigers do not count against deer totals in the grassland where the wildfire is connected to.

; '''Pit Trap''' (black pit with spikes) - End of game scoring
: All animals in the surrounding eight tiles in this grassland score double for hunters. Tigers still remove deer like normal, but if a tiger can eat a less valuable deer (outside of the eight tiles) that deer will be selected instead.

; '''The Raft''' (three way lake with raft in upper right) - End of game scoring
: This river system scores an additional point for each lake in the river system.

== End of Game ==
Game ends when there are no more standard tiles to be played. At this point any forests or rivers that have meeples on them ''score nothing''
=== Scoring hunters and grasslands ===
Each hunter scores points based on the animals on its grassland.
# Score one point (1) for each deer in the grassland
# Subtract one point (-1) for each tiger in the grassland up to the maximum deer - ''unless the bonus fire tile is in the same field in which case all tigers are ignored''
# Score two (2) points for each aurochs (ancient cows) - these are never reduced by tigers
# Score three (3) for each mammoth in the grassland - these are never reduced by tigers
If multiple players are tied for the most hunters on a grassland, each tied player scores the full points from that
grassland. However, if one player has the most hunters, only they score from that grassland.

=== Scoring huts on river systems ===
The player with the most huts on each river system scores 1 point for each fish shown in that river system.

If multiple players are tied for the most huts, each tied player scores the full points for that river system.

River systems do not need to be complete to be scored.

=== The player with the most points wins the game! ===
In the event of a tie, the tied players share the victory.