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Tips hanabi

2018-03-23T11:45:47Z

Gamersktrashcan: /* Strategies for 2-Player games */

This guide is for strategy tips: How to interpret clues, how to give clues, how to decide to play, discard or clue. Click [http://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/Gamehelphanabi here] for the introduction to the game.

== General ==
On BGA, there is no 1-strategy-to-be-played. However, if people start playing different strategies in 1 game, the game is doomed to fail. That is why communication in advance is very important, and why most hanabi-players get a lot of red thumbs. (Different strategy is interpreted as ruining the game.)

The strategies explained in this guide all have 1 goal in mind: to get the highest possible score, in the most amount of games. There are people who find score less important, and want to challenge themselves logically, or "just want to have fun". Again, communication in advance of the game is key.

Imagine this 'ideal' game. You play with 3 players and reach the maximum score of 25 points (5-colour game). At the end, there will be (at least) 12 cards left in the hands of the players, (at least) 1 clue token available and 25 cards will have been played. This means, that from the 50 cards of the deck, (50 - 25 - 12 =) 13 cards have been discarded and converted into clue tokens. You get 8 clue tokens at the start, and you will have gotten a 5 clue tokens from playing the 5s. This means that in the entire game, there were 13 (discards) + 8 (start) + 5 (completing a colour) - 1 (token left at the end) = 25 clue tokens available for playing.

On average, this means 1 clue token per 1 playable card. No matter what variant you play, you will end up with roughly this number. (Worst: 5-player game, with players that have 4 cards in their hands, playing 5 colours. This gives 22 tokens for 25 cards = 0.88 clue token per card. Best: 2-player game, with players that have 6 cards in their hands, playing 6 colours. This gives 35 tokens for 30 cards = 1.17 token per card.)

All strategies below are based on an optimisation of economical use of the clue-tokens.

== Basics ==

The basic game, plays with 50 cards: 10 for each colour. If you want to get the maximum score of 25 points, you need to play 25 cards. Some of the cards are left in the players hands at the end of the game. Depending on the number of players, this will be 8, 12, 12, or 15 (for 2p, 3p, 4p, and 5p respectively). This means in the entire game, there are 17, 13, or 10 cards that can be discarded for clues. You also get 8 clue tokens at the start, making the total number of clues in the entire game 25, 21, or 18. This gives the logical conclusion that you can not clue the colour AND number for every card in your hand, because there are simply not enough clues.

It is therefore paramount, that only useful cards are clued. If you mark a card that you know will not be played, it will cost another clue (-1) to make your team mate discard that card to gain a clue (+1), which is a net result of 0. If the card is not marked, your team mate will discard it eventually to gain a clue (+1), which is a net result of +1.

This leads to '''Basic Rule #1''' (cluing).

Every card that is marked, is either
a) (a) useful card(s) to be saved (interpret it as PLAY LATER), or
b) a useful card to be played (interpret it as PLAY NOW).
Therefore: '''NEVER mark useless cards'''

Most hanabi-players on BGA play by this main rule. So when a clue is given, ask yourself "Is this clue to save something"? If not, it is to get played.
Saving cards is important because there are only 2 cards of value 2, 3, and 4 in each suit, and only 1 card of value 5. To not get stuck on that colour it is urgent to keep the last copy of a card safe (prevent from discarding it).

The game interface puts every new card you draw, on the left-hand side of your hand. This means, the left-most card is the newest card, which makes your right-most card automatically the oldest. If a card has been in your hand for a long time, and you have not been given a clue that marks it, it is logical that it is a useless card and safe to discard.

Hence, '''Basic Rule #2''' (discarding).
'''Discard first what you know is useless (like a clued 1 when all 1s are already played). After that: discard your oldest (right-most) unclued card.'''

Note, that this rule is already a bit tricky. At the start of the game, every card can be considered equally old. This is where personal preference of players starts to matter.

Another result from the newest --> oldest order, is the interpretation of multiple marked cards. When you get a clue that marks multiple cards, and you can identify it is in fact a clue for play (see Basic Rule 1), you should play the newest (left-most) card. If an older card was "the playable card", it would probably be clued earlier. The logical conclusion must be, that the newest card, was the card you all have been waiting for, and you happened to draw it.

'''Basic Rule #3''' (playing).
'''Play the newer (left-most) clued card'''

So most people on BGA expect you to ONLY play the clued card on the left. The rest of the cards are just to be kept on your hand. Beware that there are different approaches and not all players play by this convention.

== Basic Example ==

Imagine the following starting situation:
(oldest ... newest)
Player 1: W1, Y1, B2, Y2, B2
Player 2: G1, G1, W3, Y2, B1
Player 3: B1, R4, W4, R3, G3

P1 can clue 1s to P2. But that will mark both G1's, so it's not the best option. Better is for P1 to clue P3 1s, or blue. (If BLUE-clue is given, then P3 will not worry about the B1 in P2's hand that is about to be discarded. Both 1-clue or BLUE-clue only mark 1 card, so give equal information about the other cards in P3's hand.)

P2 will clue 1s to P1. He knows that P3 prefers to play his 1. And P2 is the only person who can see that the 1s in both P1's hand, and P3's hand are different.

Everyone will have to wait for B2 to be discarded, before the second B2 can be clued. Everyone will also have to wait for G1 to be discarded, before the second G1 can be clued. Alternatively, when R1 is drawn and clued, then both G1's may be clued, since all 1's will be played and all cards marked 1 can be safely discarded.

So, the first four moves are:

1. P1 clues BLUE to P3 (7 clue-tokens).

2. P2 clues 1 to P1 (6 clue-tokens).

3. P3 plays B1 and draws R1.

4. P1 plays W1 and draws G4.

The game now looks like this, with P2 to move:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: G4, Y(1), B2, Y2, B2 Played: R0, Y0, G0, B1, W1
Player 2: G1, G1, W3, Y2, B1
Player 3: R1, R4, W4, R3, G3 Discarded: -

5. P2 clues RED to P3.

There are two possible continuations from here.
'''Option 1'''

6. P3 plays R1 and draws Y5.

7. P1 plays Y1 and draws Y3.

8. P2 discards B1 and draws G2 (7 clues).

9. P3 clues 1 to P2 (6 clues).

10. P1 discards B2 and draws R4 (7 clues).

11. P2 plays G1 and draws B5.

12. P3 clues 2 to P2 (6 clues).

And the game will look like this, with P1 to move:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: R4, Y3, G4, B(2), Y(2) Played: R1, Y1, G1, B1, W1
Player 2: G2, G(1), G(1), W3, Y2
Player 3: Y5, (R)4, W4, (R)3, G3 Discarded: B1, B2

'''Option 2'''

6. P3 clues 1 to P2 (5 clues). This move delays him playing the R1, but will make P2 more confident in discarding since he knows all the useless 1s.

7. P1 plays Y1 and draws Y5.

8. P2 plays G1 and draws Y3.

9. P3 plays R1 and draws G2.

10. P1 discards B2 and draws R4 (6 clues).

11. P2 discards B1 and draws B5 (7 clues).

12. P3 clues 2 to P2 (6 clues).

And the game will look like this, with P1 to move:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: R4, Y5, G4, B(2), Y(2) Played: R1, Y1, G1, B1, W1
Player 2: Y3, G(1), W3, Y2, B(1)
Player 3: G2, (R)4, W4, (R)3, G3 Discarded: B2, B1

Both options are equally valid. They end up in the same situation, with only the cards in hands being in a different order. Since the cards are picked at random, there is no valid reason to say one option is better than the other.

In both options, the 2-clue is given to P1, to mark both 2s as playable. Since all 1s are played, all 2s will be playable.
Note that, in this game, two 1s where marked with one clue (and played); and two 2s were marked with one clue (and will be played). As stated in the beginning, there are a total of 21 clues (in this variant) to mark 25 cards. At this point in the game, there are 16 clues left to mark 18 cards. With only two more "efficient" clues, the game can end with a perfect score.

== Advanced Moves ==

=== Intentional Discard ===

Sometimes players can have hands where all cards are important and unplayable. To tell a player that his hand blocked, discard your '''CHOP''' card, even when you know you have a playable card. This is often done when you are low on (or out of) clue-tokens. This is a risky move, since your team mate(s) might expect you to play, instead of discard. ('''always try to give him clue to give and play his hand as fast as it possible''')

=== Positional Discard ===

Sometimes at the end of the game you will have no useful cards to play. You want to give a clue, but you have no remaining clue-tokens. In this case, you can discard the card in the same position as the card that you want that player to play.

<code>
Example Positional Discard

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R5, Y5, G4, B5, W5
Player 2: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?3
Player 3: G5, B2, R4, B3, W1 Discarded: -
</code>
In this example, when there are no clue-tokens left, Player 2 can discard his DRAW, to indicate to Player 3 the position of the last remaining playable card.

=== Hint to Discard ===

You can hint to a player to discard specific cards in order to save multiple cards, to to save cards without causing a confusion about finesse/reverse.

<code>
Example Hint to Discard
In this example, all 1s have been played already. Both the Y3 and the G4 need to be saved.

Player 1: G1, R1, B4, Y3, G4
</code>
If Player 1 is given a 4-clue, the G4 will be saved, but the Y3 will be the new CHOP card. One option to save both Y3, and G4 is to give Player 1, a 1-clue. This would make the R1 the new CHOP card, and the G1 will be the next CHOP card.

=== Double Save ===

This is an alternative solution if you are low on clue-tokens, or don't have enough players to execute multiple saves in a row.

<code>
Example Double Save
In this example, W1 has not been played yet. Both the Y3 and the G4 need to be saved.

Player 1: G1, R1, B4, Y3, G4
</code>
This situation is similar as the Hint to Discard. However, in this situation a 1-clue will be interpreted as PLAY G1 (which isn't playable). To save both Y3 and G4, a blue-clue can be given to Player 1. This will cause him to BOMB on B4 (which isn't playable). But this tells him that all the cards RIGHT of the B4 needed to be saved. Note that this is a desperate measure, because it costs 2 clue-tokens (1 for the blue-clue and 1 for the BOMB card that should have been discarded) for 2 saves, but gives you no information about the saved cards.

----

'''2P GAMES''' 
With 2 players, you are limited in your options. Therefore the gameplay is different from 3+P games.

----

'''3+P GAMES''' 
=== Prompt ===
A prompt can clarify (an) already marked card(s) to be played as well as mark the next card to play.

<code>
Example Prompt

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y1, G0, B2, W0
Player 2: ??, ??, ??, ?2, ?5
Player 3: Y3, G5, R4, B3, W1 Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 give a yellow-clue to Player 3, marking Y3 as PLAY. Player 2 sees that the Y3 is ALMOST playable. This means that Player 2 has the LOGICAL in-between step: Player 2 has to play Y2. In this case, the Y2 is not on the DRAW card. The logical place for that card is the already marked 2. So Player 2 can assume that his card between the CHOP and the 5 is the Y2.

=== Finesse ===
This advanced move, can get you 2 cards into play, with only 1 clue-token. You do this, by marking an ALMOST playable card as playable. Someone else will have to play the LOGICAL in-between step, to make the card genuinely playable.

<code>
Example Finesse (#1)

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0
Player 2: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?5
Player 3: G5, B2, R4, B3, W1 Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 gives a blue-clue to Player 3, marking B2 as PLAY, and B3 as SAVE. Player 2 sees that the B2 is ALMOST playable. This means that Player 2 has the LOGICAL inbetween step: Player 2 has to play B1. The only logical place for that card is at the '''LEFT-MOST POSITION''' so Player 2 can assume that the '''DRAW''' card is the playable B1. If it was somewhere else in your hand, the card would have been clued earlier. '''Note: for the in-between player, a prompt always has priority over a finesse; if a player has a marked card that can be the in-between card, they should play it.'''

<code>
Example Finesse (#2)

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?? Played: R0, Y1, G2, B0, W1
Player 2: Y2, R1, R1, G5, W5
Player 3: XX, XX, R2, XX, XX Discarded: G4, R3
</code>

Player 1 gives a 5-clue to Player 2, saving W5 and G5 from being discarded. Player 2 sees nothing of interest in the hand of Player 3, so discards his CHOP (R1) and draws R4. Player 3 gives a setup for Player 1 by marking Y2 with a yellow-clue. The game now looks like this:
<code>
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?? Played: R0, Y1, G2, B0, W1
Player 2: R4,*Y2, R1, G5*,W5*
Player 3: XX, XX, R2, XX, XX Discarded: G4, R3, R1
</code>

Player 1 can't give a red-clue to Player 2, because this would cause Player 2 to bomb with r4. Instead, Player 1 now gives a red-clue to Player 3, marking R2 as PLAY. Player 2 sees that the R2 is ALMOST playable. This means that Player 2 has the LOGICAL inbetween step: Player 2 has to play R1. Player 2 knows that R2 can only be at the DRAW position, or at the middle position. Since Player 1 deliberately let Player 2 discard a playable 1 the round before, Player 2 concludes that she was already holding a second R1 at the time. Therefore, the LOGICAL place for the R1 to be, is at the middle position; NOT the DRAW position.

=== Bluff ===
This works the same as finesse. Only this time, the LOGICAL inbetween step, is a different playable card, so the player is tricked. It is slightly less strong that finesse, because it gives 1 play + 1 save for 1 clue-token.

<code>
Example Bluff

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0
Player 2: W1, B2, R4, B3, G5
Player 3: ??, ??, ??, ??, R? Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 gives a red-clue to Player 3, marking it as PLAY. Player 2 sees that the R2 is ALMOST playable, so applies finesse logic and plays his DRAW card. Much to Player 2's surprise, he has not played R1, but W1 (which was also playable). Because Player 3 saw Player 2 playing his DRAW, which was a different colour than the clue he received, Player 3 knows it was a bluffed finesse situation. He concludes that his red card is R2, and saves it for later.

=== Reverse ===
This works the same as finesse. Only this time, the LOGICAL inbetween step, is a different players hand. This also gets 2 plays for 1 clue-token, but takes longer than a normal finesse.

<code>
Example Reverse

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0
Player 2: ??, ??, W?, ??, ??
Player 3: W1, B2, R4, B3, G5 Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 gives a white-clue to Player 2, marking it as PLAY. However, Player 2 sees that the DRAW card of Player 3 is a playable card of the same colour. Therefore, Player 2 assumes that it is (reversed) finesse, and that his white is ALMOST playable. Player 2 decides to discard his CHOP. Player 3 recognises the (reversed) finesse play, and plays his DRAW card to play the W1.

''Having the optimal player draw the last card (endgame)''

At the end of the game, the person who draws the last card (which happens either by playing or discarding) triggers the end of the game. After the last card is drawn, each player receives exactly one more turn. Sometimes near the end of the game you will want a specific player to play or discard in order to get the last turn. Giving an unusable clue can prevent a player from drawing the last card and begin the last round.

<code>
Table:
 '''1 card remaining in deck - Your turn'''
 R Y G B W M
 5 5 3 4 5 5

XX|XX|5b - me

??|??|3? - you

1y|4g|5g - 3rd player
</code>

In this situation, assume everyone knows where the remaining playable cards are. Instead of discarding in this situation, you want the 3rd player be the one to play and draw the last card. Give any clue to prevent triggering the endgame so that 3rd player can play 4g triggering the endgame and then in their last turn play the 5g.

== Strategies for 2-Player games ==
'''Strategy #1'''

Pro's: Easy to execute 
Con's: Double discard possible for 4s. Easy to get the hands locked. 

''Guidelines'' 
1. Number-clue means “save all the cards that were marked by this clue”. Try to give save-clues as late as possible.

2. Non-unique 2s and 3s must be saved as much as possible. (Try to avoid double saves if possible.) Uniques should always be saved.

3. Colour-clues mean “play the newest card that was marked by this clue”. Other cards that are marked by the clue may be discarded when not previously marked by a number-clue.

4. If more than 5 clue-tokens are available, discarding unknown cards should be avoided, but known useless cards may be discarded freely.

5. If there are less than 2 clue-tokens available, colour-clues may be given only
a. If it leads to two or more plays in a row.
b. If the playable card is on CHOP.

6. A colour-clue may re-mark a card that’s already marked by a number if:
a. It also marks a previously unmarked card that is playable. (Either immediately, or immediately after playing the card that was marked with a number.)
b. As a stall-clue (see 7).

7. When just 2 of the hand-slots are filled with non-saved cards, that player should try to avoid discarding two turns in a row (including the turn after the save-clue that leads to this state).

8. If a clue is given while avoiding discarding twice in a row: guideline 4 no longer applies; also stall clues may be given:
a. A colour-clue that re-marks a saved card, without marking an unmarked card. For example to indicate an accidental double save, or to clarify a playable card.
b. An empty-clue: a clue that marks none of the cards. This can be used to convey information on multiple playable cards.
c. A 5-clue. If 5a and 5b are not possible, a re-clue on the 5s is allowed.

9. Nearing the end of the game, when the number of saved cards in all the hands + the number of cards in the deck is equal to the number of card that need to be played to get the maximum (possible) score, discarding should be avoided as much as possible - so stall clues may be given, non-unique 4s may be saved, etc.

'''Strategy #2'''

Pro's: Guarantees a score of 28+ 
Con's: Easy to get the hands locked. 

''Guidelines'' 
The game is divided into three stages:
1. The early game: The first 3 or 4 moves of the game.
2. The mid game: Everything that's not early or late game.
3. The late game: The last moves, starting from the point where the number of "saved cards" + deck = maximum achievable score.

''Early game'' 
In the early game, the goal is to 'sort' the hand cards into "old" cards and "new" cards. Since all cards are equally old in the beginning, it is unclear which cards are relevant, and which aren't. In order to do so, players follow these guidelines:

1. Players are not allowed to discard before 3 clue-tokens are spent.

2. After the early game, the right-most unclued cards will be considered "old" and therefore discardable. So the focus of the clues in the early game should be to save the valuable three right-most cards.

3. 1s should be marked with colour as much as possible.

4. A 1-clue should only be given when it marks three or more unique 1s.

5. 4-clues should only be given, when the 4 is blocking a colour-clue in the future. Cards marked with 4 in the early game should be discarded in the mid game.

''Mid game'' 
In the mid game, the goal is to play as many playable cards as possible, and save as many useful cards as possible. In order to do so, players follow these guidelines:

1. Players will be as efficient as possible with clue-tokens. Re-marking cards (spending a clue-token that gives MORE information on a saved card) is highly discouraged.

2. All 2s, 3s and 5s must be saved, even when the 2s or 3s are not unique.

3a. Any clue means "play the newest, PREVIOUSLY UNMARKED, card". With the exception of a SAVE-clue, or a correction-clue.

3b. A card can be saved in four possible ways:
I. A number-clue that marks the CHOP card.
II. A colour-clue that marks a PLAY card, and in addition marks another card of the same colour. This other card is saved.
III. A SCREAM discard. When player 1 knows he can play a card, but still chooses to discard, it is called a SCREAM discard. This signals to player 2 that he CHOP card must be saved. It is recommended that player 2 spends the token, in case he has a long chain of cards that need saving.
IV. A deliberate misplay. When player 1 gives player 2 a PLAY-clue, that causes player 2 to BOMB, player 2 knows to SAVE all the cards OLDER than the card that was used to bomb.
3c. When a useless card is marked as SAVE, it is desired to give a correction-clue. This re-marks the card, indicating its uselessness. Preferably, this shouldn't mark any other cards. When it does, the clue is a PLAY-clue with the correction as an additional benefit.

4. Double discarding (discarding a card that could be the same card that was just discarded), is not allowed.

5. Play-clues shouldn't be given when there are 3 or less clue-tokens available, except when it leads to more than 1 PLAY.

6. When a player has only two unmarked cards in his hand (all other slots are filled with SAVES), then this player should keep discarding to a minimum.

7. When a player has only one unmarked card in his hand, then this player is forbidden to discard two turns in a row.

''End game'' 
In the end game, the goal is to get the last remaining cards sorted in the correct hands, to maximise the score. This is achieved, by following these guidelines:

1. Discarding is highly discouraged. If there are enough clue-tokens, then stall-clues should be given.

2. Playable cards must be prioritised based on the number of plays it unlocks. This way the number of SAVED cards in hands is minimised.

3. It is recommended that both players keep at least one 5 in their hand. This way, in the last turn, both players can make a final move.

Tips hanabi

2018-03-23T11:45:16Z

Gamersktrashcan: /* Strategies for 2-Player games */

This guide is for strategy tips: How to interpret clues, how to give clues, how to decide to play, discard or clue. Click [http://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/Gamehelphanabi here] for the introduction to the game.

== General ==
On BGA, there is no 1-strategy-to-be-played. However, if people start playing different strategies in 1 game, the game is doomed to fail. That is why communication in advance is very important, and why most hanabi-players get a lot of red thumbs. (Different strategy is interpreted as ruining the game.)

The strategies explained in this guide all have 1 goal in mind: to get the highest possible score, in the most amount of games. There are people who find score less important, and want to challenge themselves logically, or "just want to have fun". Again, communication in advance of the game is key.

Imagine this 'ideal' game. You play with 3 players and reach the maximum score of 25 points (5-colour game). At the end, there will be (at least) 12 cards left in the hands of the players, (at least) 1 clue token available and 25 cards will have been played. This means, that from the 50 cards of the deck, (50 - 25 - 12 =) 13 cards have been discarded and converted into clue tokens. You get 8 clue tokens at the start, and you will have gotten a 5 clue tokens from playing the 5s. This means that in the entire game, there were 13 (discards) + 8 (start) + 5 (completing a colour) - 1 (token left at the end) = 25 clue tokens available for playing.

On average, this means 1 clue token per 1 playable card. No matter what variant you play, you will end up with roughly this number. (Worst: 5-player game, with players that have 4 cards in their hands, playing 5 colours. This gives 22 tokens for 25 cards = 0.88 clue token per card. Best: 2-player game, with players that have 6 cards in their hands, playing 6 colours. This gives 35 tokens for 30 cards = 1.17 token per card.)

All strategies below are based on an optimisation of economical use of the clue-tokens.

== Basics ==

The basic game, plays with 50 cards: 10 for each colour. If you want to get the maximum score of 25 points, you need to play 25 cards. Some of the cards are left in the players hands at the end of the game. Depending on the number of players, this will be 8, 12, 12, or 15 (for 2p, 3p, 4p, and 5p respectively). This means in the entire game, there are 17, 13, or 10 cards that can be discarded for clues. You also get 8 clue tokens at the start, making the total number of clues in the entire game 25, 21, or 18. This gives the logical conclusion that you can not clue the colour AND number for every card in your hand, because there are simply not enough clues.

It is therefore paramount, that only useful cards are clued. If you mark a card that you know will not be played, it will cost another clue (-1) to make your team mate discard that card to gain a clue (+1), which is a net result of 0. If the card is not marked, your team mate will discard it eventually to gain a clue (+1), which is a net result of +1.

This leads to '''Basic Rule #1''' (cluing).

Every card that is marked, is either
a) (a) useful card(s) to be saved (interpret it as PLAY LATER), or
b) a useful card to be played (interpret it as PLAY NOW).
Therefore: '''NEVER mark useless cards'''

Most hanabi-players on BGA play by this main rule. So when a clue is given, ask yourself "Is this clue to save something"? If not, it is to get played.
Saving cards is important because there are only 2 cards of value 2, 3, and 4 in each suit, and only 1 card of value 5. To not get stuck on that colour it is urgent to keep the last copy of a card safe (prevent from discarding it).

The game interface puts every new card you draw, on the left-hand side of your hand. This means, the left-most card is the newest card, which makes your right-most card automatically the oldest. If a card has been in your hand for a long time, and you have not been given a clue that marks it, it is logical that it is a useless card and safe to discard.

Hence, '''Basic Rule #2''' (discarding).
'''Discard first what you know is useless (like a clued 1 when all 1s are already played). After that: discard your oldest (right-most) unclued card.'''

Note, that this rule is already a bit tricky. At the start of the game, every card can be considered equally old. This is where personal preference of players starts to matter.

Another result from the newest --> oldest order, is the interpretation of multiple marked cards. When you get a clue that marks multiple cards, and you can identify it is in fact a clue for play (see Basic Rule 1), you should play the newest (left-most) card. If an older card was "the playable card", it would probably be clued earlier. The logical conclusion must be, that the newest card, was the card you all have been waiting for, and you happened to draw it.

'''Basic Rule #3''' (playing).
'''Play the newer (left-most) clued card'''

So most people on BGA expect you to ONLY play the clued card on the left. The rest of the cards are just to be kept on your hand. Beware that there are different approaches and not all players play by this convention.

== Basic Example ==

Imagine the following starting situation:
(oldest ... newest)
Player 1: W1, Y1, B2, Y2, B2
Player 2: G1, G1, W3, Y2, B1
Player 3: B1, R4, W4, R3, G3

P1 can clue 1s to P2. But that will mark both G1's, so it's not the best option. Better is for P1 to clue P3 1s, or blue. (If BLUE-clue is given, then P3 will not worry about the B1 in P2's hand that is about to be discarded. Both 1-clue or BLUE-clue only mark 1 card, so give equal information about the other cards in P3's hand.)

P2 will clue 1s to P1. He knows that P3 prefers to play his 1. And P2 is the only person who can see that the 1s in both P1's hand, and P3's hand are different.

Everyone will have to wait for B2 to be discarded, before the second B2 can be clued. Everyone will also have to wait for G1 to be discarded, before the second G1 can be clued. Alternatively, when R1 is drawn and clued, then both G1's may be clued, since all 1's will be played and all cards marked 1 can be safely discarded.

So, the first four moves are:

1. P1 clues BLUE to P3 (7 clue-tokens).

2. P2 clues 1 to P1 (6 clue-tokens).

3. P3 plays B1 and draws R1.

4. P1 plays W1 and draws G4.

The game now looks like this, with P2 to move:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: G4, Y(1), B2, Y2, B2 Played: R0, Y0, G0, B1, W1
Player 2: G1, G1, W3, Y2, B1
Player 3: R1, R4, W4, R3, G3 Discarded: -

5. P2 clues RED to P3.

There are two possible continuations from here.
'''Option 1'''

6. P3 plays R1 and draws Y5.

7. P1 plays Y1 and draws Y3.

8. P2 discards B1 and draws G2 (7 clues).

9. P3 clues 1 to P2 (6 clues).

10. P1 discards B2 and draws R4 (7 clues).

11. P2 plays G1 and draws B5.

12. P3 clues 2 to P2 (6 clues).

And the game will look like this, with P1 to move:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: R4, Y3, G4, B(2), Y(2) Played: R1, Y1, G1, B1, W1
Player 2: G2, G(1), G(1), W3, Y2
Player 3: Y5, (R)4, W4, (R)3, G3 Discarded: B1, B2

'''Option 2'''

6. P3 clues 1 to P2 (5 clues). This move delays him playing the R1, but will make P2 more confident in discarding since he knows all the useless 1s.

7. P1 plays Y1 and draws Y5.

8. P2 plays G1 and draws Y3.

9. P3 plays R1 and draws G2.

10. P1 discards B2 and draws R4 (6 clues).

11. P2 discards B1 and draws B5 (7 clues).

12. P3 clues 2 to P2 (6 clues).

And the game will look like this, with P1 to move:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: R4, Y5, G4, B(2), Y(2) Played: R1, Y1, G1, B1, W1
Player 2: Y3, G(1), W3, Y2, B(1)
Player 3: G2, (R)4, W4, (R)3, G3 Discarded: B2, B1

Both options are equally valid. They end up in the same situation, with only the cards in hands being in a different order. Since the cards are picked at random, there is no valid reason to say one option is better than the other.

In both options, the 2-clue is given to P1, to mark both 2s as playable. Since all 1s are played, all 2s will be playable.
Note that, in this game, two 1s where marked with one clue (and played); and two 2s were marked with one clue (and will be played). As stated in the beginning, there are a total of 21 clues (in this variant) to mark 25 cards. At this point in the game, there are 16 clues left to mark 18 cards. With only two more "efficient" clues, the game can end with a perfect score.

== Advanced Moves ==

=== Intentional Discard ===

Sometimes players can have hands where all cards are important and unplayable. To tell a player that his hand blocked, discard your '''CHOP''' card, even when you know you have a playable card. This is often done when you are low on (or out of) clue-tokens. This is a risky move, since your team mate(s) might expect you to play, instead of discard. ('''always try to give him clue to give and play his hand as fast as it possible''')

=== Positional Discard ===

Sometimes at the end of the game you will have no useful cards to play. You want to give a clue, but you have no remaining clue-tokens. In this case, you can discard the card in the same position as the card that you want that player to play.

<code>
Example Positional Discard

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R5, Y5, G4, B5, W5
Player 2: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?3
Player 3: G5, B2, R4, B3, W1 Discarded: -
</code>
In this example, when there are no clue-tokens left, Player 2 can discard his DRAW, to indicate to Player 3 the position of the last remaining playable card.

=== Hint to Discard ===

You can hint to a player to discard specific cards in order to save multiple cards, to to save cards without causing a confusion about finesse/reverse.

<code>
Example Hint to Discard
In this example, all 1s have been played already. Both the Y3 and the G4 need to be saved.

Player 1: G1, R1, B4, Y3, G4
</code>
If Player 1 is given a 4-clue, the G4 will be saved, but the Y3 will be the new CHOP card. One option to save both Y3, and G4 is to give Player 1, a 1-clue. This would make the R1 the new CHOP card, and the G1 will be the next CHOP card.

=== Double Save ===

This is an alternative solution if you are low on clue-tokens, or don't have enough players to execute multiple saves in a row.

<code>
Example Double Save
In this example, W1 has not been played yet. Both the Y3 and the G4 need to be saved.

Player 1: G1, R1, B4, Y3, G4
</code>
This situation is similar as the Hint to Discard. However, in this situation a 1-clue will be interpreted as PLAY G1 (which isn't playable). To save both Y3 and G4, a blue-clue can be given to Player 1. This will cause him to BOMB on B4 (which isn't playable). But this tells him that all the cards RIGHT of the B4 needed to be saved. Note that this is a desperate measure, because it costs 2 clue-tokens (1 for the blue-clue and 1 for the BOMB card that should have been discarded) for 2 saves, but gives you no information about the saved cards.

----

'''2P GAMES''' 
With 2 players, you are limited in your options. Therefore the gameplay is different from 3+P games.

----

'''3+P GAMES''' 
=== Prompt ===
A prompt can clarify (an) already marked card(s) to be played as well as mark the next card to play.

<code>
Example Prompt

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y1, G0, B2, W0
Player 2: ??, ??, ??, ?2, ?5
Player 3: Y3, G5, R4, B3, W1 Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 give a yellow-clue to Player 3, marking Y3 as PLAY. Player 2 sees that the Y3 is ALMOST playable. This means that Player 2 has the LOGICAL in-between step: Player 2 has to play Y2. In this case, the Y2 is not on the DRAW card. The logical place for that card is the already marked 2. So Player 2 can assume that his card between the CHOP and the 5 is the Y2.

=== Finesse ===
This advanced move, can get you 2 cards into play, with only 1 clue-token. You do this, by marking an ALMOST playable card as playable. Someone else will have to play the LOGICAL in-between step, to make the card genuinely playable.

<code>
Example Finesse (#1)

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0
Player 2: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?5
Player 3: G5, B2, R4, B3, W1 Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 gives a blue-clue to Player 3, marking B2 as PLAY, and B3 as SAVE. Player 2 sees that the B2 is ALMOST playable. This means that Player 2 has the LOGICAL inbetween step: Player 2 has to play B1. The only logical place for that card is at the '''LEFT-MOST POSITION''' so Player 2 can assume that the '''DRAW''' card is the playable B1. If it was somewhere else in your hand, the card would have been clued earlier. '''Note: for the in-between player, a prompt always has priority over a finesse; if a player has a marked card that can be the in-between card, they should play it.'''

<code>
Example Finesse (#2)

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?? Played: R0, Y1, G2, B0, W1
Player 2: Y2, R1, R1, G5, W5
Player 3: XX, XX, R2, XX, XX Discarded: G4, R3
</code>

Player 1 gives a 5-clue to Player 2, saving W5 and G5 from being discarded. Player 2 sees nothing of interest in the hand of Player 3, so discards his CHOP (R1) and draws R4. Player 3 gives a setup for Player 1 by marking Y2 with a yellow-clue. The game now looks like this:
<code>
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?? Played: R0, Y1, G2, B0, W1
Player 2: R4,*Y2, R1, G5*,W5*
Player 3: XX, XX, R2, XX, XX Discarded: G4, R3, R1
</code>

Player 1 can't give a red-clue to Player 2, because this would cause Player 2 to bomb with r4. Instead, Player 1 now gives a red-clue to Player 3, marking R2 as PLAY. Player 2 sees that the R2 is ALMOST playable. This means that Player 2 has the LOGICAL inbetween step: Player 2 has to play R1. Player 2 knows that R2 can only be at the DRAW position, or at the middle position. Since Player 1 deliberately let Player 2 discard a playable 1 the round before, Player 2 concludes that she was already holding a second R1 at the time. Therefore, the LOGICAL place for the R1 to be, is at the middle position; NOT the DRAW position.

=== Bluff ===
This works the same as finesse. Only this time, the LOGICAL inbetween step, is a different playable card, so the player is tricked. It is slightly less strong that finesse, because it gives 1 play + 1 save for 1 clue-token.

<code>
Example Bluff

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0
Player 2: W1, B2, R4, B3, G5
Player 3: ??, ??, ??, ??, R? Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 gives a red-clue to Player 3, marking it as PLAY. Player 2 sees that the R2 is ALMOST playable, so applies finesse logic and plays his DRAW card. Much to Player 2's surprise, he has not played R1, but W1 (which was also playable). Because Player 3 saw Player 2 playing his DRAW, which was a different colour than the clue he received, Player 3 knows it was a bluffed finesse situation. He concludes that his red card is R2, and saves it for later.

=== Reverse ===
This works the same as finesse. Only this time, the LOGICAL inbetween step, is a different players hand. This also gets 2 plays for 1 clue-token, but takes longer than a normal finesse.

<code>
Example Reverse

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0
Player 2: ??, ??, W?, ??, ??
Player 3: W1, B2, R4, B3, G5 Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 gives a white-clue to Player 2, marking it as PLAY. However, Player 2 sees that the DRAW card of Player 3 is a playable card of the same colour. Therefore, Player 2 assumes that it is (reversed) finesse, and that his white is ALMOST playable. Player 2 decides to discard his CHOP. Player 3 recognises the (reversed) finesse play, and plays his DRAW card to play the W1.

''Having the optimal player draw the last card (endgame)''

At the end of the game, the person who draws the last card (which happens either by playing or discarding) triggers the end of the game. After the last card is drawn, each player receives exactly one more turn. Sometimes near the end of the game you will want a specific player to play or discard in order to get the last turn. Giving an unusable clue can prevent a player from drawing the last card and begin the last round.

<code>
Table:
 '''1 card remaining in deck - Your turn'''
 R Y G B W M
 5 5 3 4 5 5

XX|XX|5b - me

??|??|3? - you

1y|4g|5g - 3rd player
</code>

In this situation, assume everyone knows where the remaining playable cards are. Instead of discarding in this situation, you want the 3rd player be the one to play and draw the last card. Give any clue to prevent triggering the endgame so that 3rd player can play 4g triggering the endgame and then in their last turn play the 5g.

== Strategies for 2-Player games ==
'''Strategy #1'''

Pro's: Easy to execute 
Con's: Double discard possible for 4s. Easy to get the hands locked. 

''Guidelines'' 
1. Number-clue means “save all the cards that were marked by this clue”. Try to give save-clues as late as possible.

2. Non-unique 2s and 3s must be saved as much as possible. (Try to avoid double saves if possible.) Uniques should always be saved.

3. Colour-clues mean “play the newest card that was marked by this clue”. Other cards that are marked by the clue may be discarded when not previously marked by a number-clue.

4. If more than 5 clue-tokens are available, discarding unknown cards should be avoided, but known useless cards may be discarded freely.

5. If there are less than 2 clue-tokens available, colour-clues may be given only
a. If it leads to two or more plays in a row.
b. If the playable card is on CHOP.

6. A colour-clue may re-mark a card that’s already marked by a number if:
a. It also marks a previously unmarked card that is playable. (Either immediately, or immediately after playing the card that was marked with a number.)
b. As a stall-clue (see 7).

7. When just 2 of the hand-slots are filled with non-saved cards, that player should try to avoid discarding two turns in a row (including the turn after the save-clue that leads to this state).

8. If a clue is given while avoiding discarding twice in a row: guideline 4 no longer applies; also stall clues may be given:
a. A colour-clue that re-marks a saved card, without marking an unmarked card. For example to indicate an accidental double save, or to clarify a playable card.
b. An empty-clue: a clue that marks none of the cards. This can be used to convey information on multiple playable cards.
c. A 5-clue. If 5a and 5b are not possible, a re-clue on the 5s is allowed.

9. Nearing the end of the game, when the number of saved cards in all the hands + the number of cards in the deck is equal to the number of card that need to be played to get the maximum (possible) score, discarding should be avoided as much as possible - so stall clues may be given, non-unique 4s may be saved, etc.

'''Strategy #2'''

Pro's: Guarantees a score of 28+ 
Con's: Easy to get the hands locked. 

''Guidelines'' 
The game is divided into three stages:
1. The early game: The first 3 or 4 moves of the game.
2. The mid game: Everything that's not early or late game.
3. The late game: The last moves, starting from the point where the number of "saved cards" + deck = maximum achievable score.

''Early game'' 
In the early game, the goal is to 'sort' the hand cards into "old" cards and "new" cards. Since all cards are equally old in the beginning, it is unclear which cards are relevant, and which aren't. In order to do so, players follow these guidelines:
1. Players are not allowed to discard before 3 clue-tokens are spent.

2. After the early game, the right-most unclued cards will be considered "old" and therefore discardable. So the focus of the clues in the early game should be to save the valuable three right-most cards.

3. 1s should be marked with colour as much as possible.

4. A 1-clue should only be given when it marks three or more unique 1s.

5. 4-clues should only be given, when the 4 is blocking a colour-clue in the future. Cards marked with 4 in the early game should be discarded in the mid game.

''Mid game'' 
In the mid game, the goal is to play as many playable cards as possible, and save as many useful cards as possible. In order to do so, players follow these guidelines:
1. Players will be as efficient as possible with clue-tokens. Re-marking cards (spending a clue-token that gives MORE information on a saved card) is highly discouraged.

2. All 2s, 3s and 5s must be saved, even when the 2s or 3s are not unique.

3a. Any clue means "play the newest, PREVIOUSLY UNMARKED, card". With the exception of a SAVE-clue, or a correction-clue.

3b. A card can be saved in four possible ways:
I. A number-clue that marks the CHOP card.
II. A colour-clue that marks a PLAY card, and in addition marks another card of the same colour. This other card is saved.
III. A SCREAM discard. When player 1 knows he can play a card, but still chooses to discard, it is called a SCREAM discard. This signals to player 2 that he CHOP card must be saved. It is recommended that player 2 spends the token, in case he has a long chain of cards that need saving.
IV. A deliberate misplay. When player 1 gives player 2 a PLAY-clue, that causes player 2 to BOMB, player 2 knows to SAVE all the cards OLDER than the card that was used to bomb.
3c. When a useless card is marked as SAVE, it is desired to give a correction-clue. This re-marks the card, indicating its uselessness. Preferably, this shouldn't mark any other cards. When it does, the clue is a PLAY-clue with the correction as an additional benefit.

4. Double discarding (discarding a card that could be the same card that was just discarded), is not allowed.

5. Play-clues shouldn't be given when there are 3 or less clue-tokens available, except when it leads to more than 1 PLAY.

6. When a player has only two unmarked cards in his hand (all other slots are filled with SAVES), then this player should keep discarding to a minimum.

7. When a player has only one unmarked card in his hand, then this player is forbidden to discard two turns in a row.

''End game'' 
In the end game, the goal is to get the last remaining cards sorted in the correct hands, to maximise the score. This is achieved, by following these guidelines:
1. Discarding is highly discouraged. If there are enough clue-tokens, then stall-clues should be given.

2. Playable cards must be prioritised based on the number of plays it unlocks. This way the number of SAVED cards in hands is minimised.

3. It is recommended that both players keep at least one 5 in their hand. This way, in the last turn, both players can make a final move.

Tips hanabi

2018-03-23T11:43:58Z

Gamersktrashcan: /* Strategies for 2-Player games */

This guide is for strategy tips: How to interpret clues, how to give clues, how to decide to play, discard or clue. Click [http://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/Gamehelphanabi here] for the introduction to the game.

== General ==
On BGA, there is no 1-strategy-to-be-played. However, if people start playing different strategies in 1 game, the game is doomed to fail. That is why communication in advance is very important, and why most hanabi-players get a lot of red thumbs. (Different strategy is interpreted as ruining the game.)

The strategies explained in this guide all have 1 goal in mind: to get the highest possible score, in the most amount of games. There are people who find score less important, and want to challenge themselves logically, or "just want to have fun". Again, communication in advance of the game is key.

Imagine this 'ideal' game. You play with 3 players and reach the maximum score of 25 points (5-colour game). At the end, there will be (at least) 12 cards left in the hands of the players, (at least) 1 clue token available and 25 cards will have been played. This means, that from the 50 cards of the deck, (50 - 25 - 12 =) 13 cards have been discarded and converted into clue tokens. You get 8 clue tokens at the start, and you will have gotten a 5 clue tokens from playing the 5s. This means that in the entire game, there were 13 (discards) + 8 (start) + 5 (completing a colour) - 1 (token left at the end) = 25 clue tokens available for playing.

On average, this means 1 clue token per 1 playable card. No matter what variant you play, you will end up with roughly this number. (Worst: 5-player game, with players that have 4 cards in their hands, playing 5 colours. This gives 22 tokens for 25 cards = 0.88 clue token per card. Best: 2-player game, with players that have 6 cards in their hands, playing 6 colours. This gives 35 tokens for 30 cards = 1.17 token per card.)

All strategies below are based on an optimisation of economical use of the clue-tokens.

== Basics ==

The basic game, plays with 50 cards: 10 for each colour. If you want to get the maximum score of 25 points, you need to play 25 cards. Some of the cards are left in the players hands at the end of the game. Depending on the number of players, this will be 8, 12, 12, or 15 (for 2p, 3p, 4p, and 5p respectively). This means in the entire game, there are 17, 13, or 10 cards that can be discarded for clues. You also get 8 clue tokens at the start, making the total number of clues in the entire game 25, 21, or 18. This gives the logical conclusion that you can not clue the colour AND number for every card in your hand, because there are simply not enough clues.

It is therefore paramount, that only useful cards are clued. If you mark a card that you know will not be played, it will cost another clue (-1) to make your team mate discard that card to gain a clue (+1), which is a net result of 0. If the card is not marked, your team mate will discard it eventually to gain a clue (+1), which is a net result of +1.

This leads to '''Basic Rule #1''' (cluing).

Every card that is marked, is either
a) (a) useful card(s) to be saved (interpret it as PLAY LATER), or
b) a useful card to be played (interpret it as PLAY NOW).
Therefore: '''NEVER mark useless cards'''

Most hanabi-players on BGA play by this main rule. So when a clue is given, ask yourself "Is this clue to save something"? If not, it is to get played.
Saving cards is important because there are only 2 cards of value 2, 3, and 4 in each suit, and only 1 card of value 5. To not get stuck on that colour it is urgent to keep the last copy of a card safe (prevent from discarding it).

The game interface puts every new card you draw, on the left-hand side of your hand. This means, the left-most card is the newest card, which makes your right-most card automatically the oldest. If a card has been in your hand for a long time, and you have not been given a clue that marks it, it is logical that it is a useless card and safe to discard.

Hence, '''Basic Rule #2''' (discarding).
'''Discard first what you know is useless (like a clued 1 when all 1s are already played). After that: discard your oldest (right-most) unclued card.'''

Note, that this rule is already a bit tricky. At the start of the game, every card can be considered equally old. This is where personal preference of players starts to matter.

Another result from the newest --> oldest order, is the interpretation of multiple marked cards. When you get a clue that marks multiple cards, and you can identify it is in fact a clue for play (see Basic Rule 1), you should play the newest (left-most) card. If an older card was "the playable card", it would probably be clued earlier. The logical conclusion must be, that the newest card, was the card you all have been waiting for, and you happened to draw it.

'''Basic Rule #3''' (playing).
'''Play the newer (left-most) clued card'''

So most people on BGA expect you to ONLY play the clued card on the left. The rest of the cards are just to be kept on your hand. Beware that there are different approaches and not all players play by this convention.

== Basic Example ==

Imagine the following starting situation:
(oldest ... newest)
Player 1: W1, Y1, B2, Y2, B2
Player 2: G1, G1, W3, Y2, B1
Player 3: B1, R4, W4, R3, G3

P1 can clue 1s to P2. But that will mark both G1's, so it's not the best option. Better is for P1 to clue P3 1s, or blue. (If BLUE-clue is given, then P3 will not worry about the B1 in P2's hand that is about to be discarded. Both 1-clue or BLUE-clue only mark 1 card, so give equal information about the other cards in P3's hand.)

P2 will clue 1s to P1. He knows that P3 prefers to play his 1. And P2 is the only person who can see that the 1s in both P1's hand, and P3's hand are different.

Everyone will have to wait for B2 to be discarded, before the second B2 can be clued. Everyone will also have to wait for G1 to be discarded, before the second G1 can be clued. Alternatively, when R1 is drawn and clued, then both G1's may be clued, since all 1's will be played and all cards marked 1 can be safely discarded.

So, the first four moves are:

1. P1 clues BLUE to P3 (7 clue-tokens).

2. P2 clues 1 to P1 (6 clue-tokens).

3. P3 plays B1 and draws R1.

4. P1 plays W1 and draws G4.

The game now looks like this, with P2 to move:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: G4, Y(1), B2, Y2, B2 Played: R0, Y0, G0, B1, W1
Player 2: G1, G1, W3, Y2, B1
Player 3: R1, R4, W4, R3, G3 Discarded: -

5. P2 clues RED to P3.

There are two possible continuations from here.
'''Option 1'''

6. P3 plays R1 and draws Y5.

7. P1 plays Y1 and draws Y3.

8. P2 discards B1 and draws G2 (7 clues).

9. P3 clues 1 to P2 (6 clues).

10. P1 discards B2 and draws R4 (7 clues).

11. P2 plays G1 and draws B5.

12. P3 clues 2 to P2 (6 clues).

And the game will look like this, with P1 to move:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: R4, Y3, G4, B(2), Y(2) Played: R1, Y1, G1, B1, W1
Player 2: G2, G(1), G(1), W3, Y2
Player 3: Y5, (R)4, W4, (R)3, G3 Discarded: B1, B2

'''Option 2'''

6. P3 clues 1 to P2 (5 clues). This move delays him playing the R1, but will make P2 more confident in discarding since he knows all the useless 1s.

7. P1 plays Y1 and draws Y5.

8. P2 plays G1 and draws Y3.

9. P3 plays R1 and draws G2.

10. P1 discards B2 and draws R4 (6 clues).

11. P2 discards B1 and draws B5 (7 clues).

12. P3 clues 2 to P2 (6 clues).

And the game will look like this, with P1 to move:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: R4, Y5, G4, B(2), Y(2) Played: R1, Y1, G1, B1, W1
Player 2: Y3, G(1), W3, Y2, B(1)
Player 3: G2, (R)4, W4, (R)3, G3 Discarded: B2, B1

Both options are equally valid. They end up in the same situation, with only the cards in hands being in a different order. Since the cards are picked at random, there is no valid reason to say one option is better than the other.

In both options, the 2-clue is given to P1, to mark both 2s as playable. Since all 1s are played, all 2s will be playable.
Note that, in this game, two 1s where marked with one clue (and played); and two 2s were marked with one clue (and will be played). As stated in the beginning, there are a total of 21 clues (in this variant) to mark 25 cards. At this point in the game, there are 16 clues left to mark 18 cards. With only two more "efficient" clues, the game can end with a perfect score.

== Advanced Moves ==

=== Intentional Discard ===

Sometimes players can have hands where all cards are important and unplayable. To tell a player that his hand blocked, discard your '''CHOP''' card, even when you know you have a playable card. This is often done when you are low on (or out of) clue-tokens. This is a risky move, since your team mate(s) might expect you to play, instead of discard. ('''always try to give him clue to give and play his hand as fast as it possible''')

=== Positional Discard ===

Sometimes at the end of the game you will have no useful cards to play. You want to give a clue, but you have no remaining clue-tokens. In this case, you can discard the card in the same position as the card that you want that player to play.

<code>
Example Positional Discard

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R5, Y5, G4, B5, W5
Player 2: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?3
Player 3: G5, B2, R4, B3, W1 Discarded: -
</code>
In this example, when there are no clue-tokens left, Player 2 can discard his DRAW, to indicate to Player 3 the position of the last remaining playable card.

=== Hint to Discard ===

You can hint to a player to discard specific cards in order to save multiple cards, to to save cards without causing a confusion about finesse/reverse.

<code>
Example Hint to Discard
In this example, all 1s have been played already. Both the Y3 and the G4 need to be saved.

Player 1: G1, R1, B4, Y3, G4
</code>
If Player 1 is given a 4-clue, the G4 will be saved, but the Y3 will be the new CHOP card. One option to save both Y3, and G4 is to give Player 1, a 1-clue. This would make the R1 the new CHOP card, and the G1 will be the next CHOP card.

=== Double Save ===

This is an alternative solution if you are low on clue-tokens, or don't have enough players to execute multiple saves in a row.

<code>
Example Double Save
In this example, W1 has not been played yet. Both the Y3 and the G4 need to be saved.

Player 1: G1, R1, B4, Y3, G4
</code>
This situation is similar as the Hint to Discard. However, in this situation a 1-clue will be interpreted as PLAY G1 (which isn't playable). To save both Y3 and G4, a blue-clue can be given to Player 1. This will cause him to BOMB on B4 (which isn't playable). But this tells him that all the cards RIGHT of the B4 needed to be saved. Note that this is a desperate measure, because it costs 2 clue-tokens (1 for the blue-clue and 1 for the BOMB card that should have been discarded) for 2 saves, but gives you no information about the saved cards.

----

'''2P GAMES''' 
With 2 players, you are limited in your options. Therefore the gameplay is different from 3+P games.

----

'''3+P GAMES''' 
=== Prompt ===
A prompt can clarify (an) already marked card(s) to be played as well as mark the next card to play.

<code>
Example Prompt

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y1, G0, B2, W0
Player 2: ??, ??, ??, ?2, ?5
Player 3: Y3, G5, R4, B3, W1 Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 give a yellow-clue to Player 3, marking Y3 as PLAY. Player 2 sees that the Y3 is ALMOST playable. This means that Player 2 has the LOGICAL in-between step: Player 2 has to play Y2. In this case, the Y2 is not on the DRAW card. The logical place for that card is the already marked 2. So Player 2 can assume that his card between the CHOP and the 5 is the Y2.

=== Finesse ===
This advanced move, can get you 2 cards into play, with only 1 clue-token. You do this, by marking an ALMOST playable card as playable. Someone else will have to play the LOGICAL in-between step, to make the card genuinely playable.

<code>
Example Finesse (#1)

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0
Player 2: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?5
Player 3: G5, B2, R4, B3, W1 Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 gives a blue-clue to Player 3, marking B2 as PLAY, and B3 as SAVE. Player 2 sees that the B2 is ALMOST playable. This means that Player 2 has the LOGICAL inbetween step: Player 2 has to play B1. The only logical place for that card is at the '''LEFT-MOST POSITION''' so Player 2 can assume that the '''DRAW''' card is the playable B1. If it was somewhere else in your hand, the card would have been clued earlier. '''Note: for the in-between player, a prompt always has priority over a finesse; if a player has a marked card that can be the in-between card, they should play it.'''

<code>
Example Finesse (#2)

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?? Played: R0, Y1, G2, B0, W1
Player 2: Y2, R1, R1, G5, W5
Player 3: XX, XX, R2, XX, XX Discarded: G4, R3
</code>

Player 1 gives a 5-clue to Player 2, saving W5 and G5 from being discarded. Player 2 sees nothing of interest in the hand of Player 3, so discards his CHOP (R1) and draws R4. Player 3 gives a setup for Player 1 by marking Y2 with a yellow-clue. The game now looks like this:
<code>
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?? Played: R0, Y1, G2, B0, W1
Player 2: R4,*Y2, R1, G5*,W5*
Player 3: XX, XX, R2, XX, XX Discarded: G4, R3, R1
</code>

Player 1 can't give a red-clue to Player 2, because this would cause Player 2 to bomb with r4. Instead, Player 1 now gives a red-clue to Player 3, marking R2 as PLAY. Player 2 sees that the R2 is ALMOST playable. This means that Player 2 has the LOGICAL inbetween step: Player 2 has to play R1. Player 2 knows that R2 can only be at the DRAW position, or at the middle position. Since Player 1 deliberately let Player 2 discard a playable 1 the round before, Player 2 concludes that she was already holding a second R1 at the time. Therefore, the LOGICAL place for the R1 to be, is at the middle position; NOT the DRAW position.

=== Bluff ===
This works the same as finesse. Only this time, the LOGICAL inbetween step, is a different playable card, so the player is tricked. It is slightly less strong that finesse, because it gives 1 play + 1 save for 1 clue-token.

<code>
Example Bluff

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0
Player 2: W1, B2, R4, B3, G5
Player 3: ??, ??, ??, ??, R? Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 gives a red-clue to Player 3, marking it as PLAY. Player 2 sees that the R2 is ALMOST playable, so applies finesse logic and plays his DRAW card. Much to Player 2's surprise, he has not played R1, but W1 (which was also playable). Because Player 3 saw Player 2 playing his DRAW, which was a different colour than the clue he received, Player 3 knows it was a bluffed finesse situation. He concludes that his red card is R2, and saves it for later.

=== Reverse ===
This works the same as finesse. Only this time, the LOGICAL inbetween step, is a different players hand. This also gets 2 plays for 1 clue-token, but takes longer than a normal finesse.

<code>
Example Reverse

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0
Player 2: ??, ??, W?, ??, ??
Player 3: W1, B2, R4, B3, G5 Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 gives a white-clue to Player 2, marking it as PLAY. However, Player 2 sees that the DRAW card of Player 3 is a playable card of the same colour. Therefore, Player 2 assumes that it is (reversed) finesse, and that his white is ALMOST playable. Player 2 decides to discard his CHOP. Player 3 recognises the (reversed) finesse play, and plays his DRAW card to play the W1.

''Having the optimal player draw the last card (endgame)''

At the end of the game, the person who draws the last card (which happens either by playing or discarding) triggers the end of the game. After the last card is drawn, each player receives exactly one more turn. Sometimes near the end of the game you will want a specific player to play or discard in order to get the last turn. Giving an unusable clue can prevent a player from drawing the last card and begin the last round.

<code>
Table:
 '''1 card remaining in deck - Your turn'''
 R Y G B W M
 5 5 3 4 5 5

XX|XX|5b - me

??|??|3? - you

1y|4g|5g - 3rd player
</code>

In this situation, assume everyone knows where the remaining playable cards are. Instead of discarding in this situation, you want the 3rd player be the one to play and draw the last card. Give any clue to prevent triggering the endgame so that 3rd player can play 4g triggering the endgame and then in their last turn play the 5g.

== Strategies for 2-Player games ==
'''Strategy #1'''
Pro's: Easy to execute 
Con's: Double discard possible for 4s. Easy to get the hands locked. 

''Guidelines'' 
1. Number-clue means “save all the cards that were marked by this clue”. Try to give save-clues as late as possible.

2. Non-unique 2s and 3s must be saved as much as possible. (Try to avoid double saves if possible.) Uniques should always be saved.

3. Colour-clues mean “play the newest card that was marked by this clue”. Other cards that are marked by the clue may be discarded when not previously marked by a number-clue.

4. If more than 5 clue-tokens are available, discarding unknown cards should be avoided, but known useless cards may be discarded freely.

5. If there are less than 2 clue-tokens available, colour-clues may be given only
a. If it leads to two or more plays in a row.
b. If the playable card is on CHOP.

6. A colour-clue may re-mark a card that’s already marked by a number if:
a. It also marks a previously unmarked card that is playable. (Either immediately, or immediately after playing the card that was marked with a number.)
b. As a stall-clue (see 7).

7. When just 2 of the hand-slots are filled with non-saved cards, that player should try to avoid discarding two turns in a row (including the turn after the save-clue that leads to this state).

8. If a clue is given while avoiding discarding twice in a row: guideline 4 no longer applies; also stall clues may be given:
a. A colour-clue that re-marks a saved card, without marking an unmarked card. For example to indicate an accidental double save, or to clarify a playable card.
b. An empty-clue: a clue that marks none of the cards. This can be used to convey information on multiple playable cards.
c. A 5-clue. If 5a and 5b are not possible, a re-clue on the 5s is allowed.

9. Nearing the end of the game, when the number of saved cards in all the hands + the number of cards in the deck is equal to the number of card that need to be played to get the maximum (possible) score, discarding should be avoided as much as possible - so stall clues may be given, non-unique 4s may be saved, etc.

'''Strategy #2'''
Pro's: Guarantees a score of 28+ 
Con's: Easy to get the hands locked. 

''Guidelines'' 
The game is divided into three stages:
1. The early game: The first 3 or 4 moves of the game.
2. The mid game: Everything that's not early or late game.
3. The late game: The last moves, starting from the point where the number of "saved cards" + deck = maximum achievable score.

In the early game, the goal is to 'sort' the hand cards into "old" cards and "new" cards. Since all cards are equally old in the beginning, it is unclear which cards are relevant, and which aren't. In order to do so, players follow these guidelines:
1. Players are not allowed to discard before 3 clue-tokens are spent.

2. After the early game, the right-most unclued cards will be considered "old" and therefore discardable. So the focus of the clues in the early game should be to save the valuable three right-most cards.

3. 1s should be marked with colour as much as possible.

4. A 1-clue should only be given when it marks three or more unique 1s.

5. 4-clues should only be given, when the 4 is blocking a colour-clue in the future. Cards marked with 4 in the early game should be discarded in the mid game.

In the mid game, the goal is to play as many playable cards as possible, and save as many useful cards as possible. In order to do so, players follow these guidelines:
1. Players will be as efficient as possible with clue-tokens. Re-marking cards (spending a clue-token that gives MORE information on a saved card) is highly discouraged.

2. All 2s, 3s and 5s must be saved, even when the 2s or 3s are not unique.

3a. Any clue means "play the newest, PREVIOUSLY UNMARKED, card". With the exception of a SAVE-clue, or a correction-clue.

3b. A card can be saved in four possible ways:
I. A number-clue that marks the CHOP card.
II. A colour-clue that marks a PLAY card, and in addition marks another card of the same colour. This other card is saved.
III. A SCREAM discard. When player 1 knows he can play a card, but still chooses to discard, it is called a SCREAM discard. This signals to player 2 that he CHOP card must be saved. It is recommended that player 2 spends the token, in case he has a long chain of cards that need saving.
IV. A deliberate misplay. When player 1 gives player 2 a PLAY-clue, that causes player 2 to BOMB, player 2 knows to SAVE all the cards OLDER than the card that was used to bomb.
3c. When a useless card is marked as SAVE, it is desired to give a correction-clue. This re-marks the card, indicating its uselessness. Preferably, this shouldn't mark any other cards. When it does, the clue is a PLAY-clue with the correction as an additional benefit.

4. Double discarding (discarding a card that could be the same card that was just discarded), is not allowed.

5. Play-clues shouldn't be given when there are 3 or less clue-tokens available, except when it leads to more than 1 PLAY.

6. When a player has only two unmarked cards in his hand (all other slots are filled with SAVES), then this player should keep discarding to a minimum.

7. When a player has only one unmarked card in his hand, then this player is forbidden to discard two turns in a row.

In the end game, the goal is to get the last remaining cards sorted in the correct hands, to maximise the score. This is achieved, by following these guidelines:
1. Discarding is highly discouraged. If there are enough clue-tokens, then stall-clues should be given.

2. Playable cards must be prioritised based on the number of plays it unlocks. This way the number of SAVED cards in hands is minimised.

3. It is recommended that both players keep at least one 5 in their hand. This way, in the last turn, both players can make a final move.

Tips hanabi

2018-03-23T11:42:45Z

Gamersktrashcan: /* Strategies for 2-Player games */

This guide is for strategy tips: How to interpret clues, how to give clues, how to decide to play, discard or clue. Click [http://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/Gamehelphanabi here] for the introduction to the game.

== General ==
On BGA, there is no 1-strategy-to-be-played. However, if people start playing different strategies in 1 game, the game is doomed to fail. That is why communication in advance is very important, and why most hanabi-players get a lot of red thumbs. (Different strategy is interpreted as ruining the game.)

The strategies explained in this guide all have 1 goal in mind: to get the highest possible score, in the most amount of games. There are people who find score less important, and want to challenge themselves logically, or "just want to have fun". Again, communication in advance of the game is key.

Imagine this 'ideal' game. You play with 3 players and reach the maximum score of 25 points (5-colour game). At the end, there will be (at least) 12 cards left in the hands of the players, (at least) 1 clue token available and 25 cards will have been played. This means, that from the 50 cards of the deck, (50 - 25 - 12 =) 13 cards have been discarded and converted into clue tokens. You get 8 clue tokens at the start, and you will have gotten a 5 clue tokens from playing the 5s. This means that in the entire game, there were 13 (discards) + 8 (start) + 5 (completing a colour) - 1 (token left at the end) = 25 clue tokens available for playing.

On average, this means 1 clue token per 1 playable card. No matter what variant you play, you will end up with roughly this number. (Worst: 5-player game, with players that have 4 cards in their hands, playing 5 colours. This gives 22 tokens for 25 cards = 0.88 clue token per card. Best: 2-player game, with players that have 6 cards in their hands, playing 6 colours. This gives 35 tokens for 30 cards = 1.17 token per card.)

All strategies below are based on an optimisation of economical use of the clue-tokens.

== Basics ==

The basic game, plays with 50 cards: 10 for each colour. If you want to get the maximum score of 25 points, you need to play 25 cards. Some of the cards are left in the players hands at the end of the game. Depending on the number of players, this will be 8, 12, 12, or 15 (for 2p, 3p, 4p, and 5p respectively). This means in the entire game, there are 17, 13, or 10 cards that can be discarded for clues. You also get 8 clue tokens at the start, making the total number of clues in the entire game 25, 21, or 18. This gives the logical conclusion that you can not clue the colour AND number for every card in your hand, because there are simply not enough clues.

It is therefore paramount, that only useful cards are clued. If you mark a card that you know will not be played, it will cost another clue (-1) to make your team mate discard that card to gain a clue (+1), which is a net result of 0. If the card is not marked, your team mate will discard it eventually to gain a clue (+1), which is a net result of +1.

This leads to '''Basic Rule #1''' (cluing).

Every card that is marked, is either
a) (a) useful card(s) to be saved (interpret it as PLAY LATER), or
b) a useful card to be played (interpret it as PLAY NOW).
Therefore: '''NEVER mark useless cards'''

Most hanabi-players on BGA play by this main rule. So when a clue is given, ask yourself "Is this clue to save something"? If not, it is to get played.
Saving cards is important because there are only 2 cards of value 2, 3, and 4 in each suit, and only 1 card of value 5. To not get stuck on that colour it is urgent to keep the last copy of a card safe (prevent from discarding it).

The game interface puts every new card you draw, on the left-hand side of your hand. This means, the left-most card is the newest card, which makes your right-most card automatically the oldest. If a card has been in your hand for a long time, and you have not been given a clue that marks it, it is logical that it is a useless card and safe to discard.

Hence, '''Basic Rule #2''' (discarding).
'''Discard first what you know is useless (like a clued 1 when all 1s are already played). After that: discard your oldest (right-most) unclued card.'''

Note, that this rule is already a bit tricky. At the start of the game, every card can be considered equally old. This is where personal preference of players starts to matter.

Another result from the newest --> oldest order, is the interpretation of multiple marked cards. When you get a clue that marks multiple cards, and you can identify it is in fact a clue for play (see Basic Rule 1), you should play the newest (left-most) card. If an older card was "the playable card", it would probably be clued earlier. The logical conclusion must be, that the newest card, was the card you all have been waiting for, and you happened to draw it.

'''Basic Rule #3''' (playing).
'''Play the newer (left-most) clued card'''

So most people on BGA expect you to ONLY play the clued card on the left. The rest of the cards are just to be kept on your hand. Beware that there are different approaches and not all players play by this convention.

== Basic Example ==

Imagine the following starting situation:
(oldest ... newest)
Player 1: W1, Y1, B2, Y2, B2
Player 2: G1, G1, W3, Y2, B1
Player 3: B1, R4, W4, R3, G3

P1 can clue 1s to P2. But that will mark both G1's, so it's not the best option. Better is for P1 to clue P3 1s, or blue. (If BLUE-clue is given, then P3 will not worry about the B1 in P2's hand that is about to be discarded. Both 1-clue or BLUE-clue only mark 1 card, so give equal information about the other cards in P3's hand.)

P2 will clue 1s to P1. He knows that P3 prefers to play his 1. And P2 is the only person who can see that the 1s in both P1's hand, and P3's hand are different.

Everyone will have to wait for B2 to be discarded, before the second B2 can be clued. Everyone will also have to wait for G1 to be discarded, before the second G1 can be clued. Alternatively, when R1 is drawn and clued, then both G1's may be clued, since all 1's will be played and all cards marked 1 can be safely discarded.

So, the first four moves are:

1. P1 clues BLUE to P3 (7 clue-tokens).

2. P2 clues 1 to P1 (6 clue-tokens).

3. P3 plays B1 and draws R1.

4. P1 plays W1 and draws G4.

The game now looks like this, with P2 to move:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: G4, Y(1), B2, Y2, B2 Played: R0, Y0, G0, B1, W1
Player 2: G1, G1, W3, Y2, B1
Player 3: R1, R4, W4, R3, G3 Discarded: -

5. P2 clues RED to P3.

There are two possible continuations from here.
'''Option 1'''

6. P3 plays R1 and draws Y5.

7. P1 plays Y1 and draws Y3.

8. P2 discards B1 and draws G2 (7 clues).

9. P3 clues 1 to P2 (6 clues).

10. P1 discards B2 and draws R4 (7 clues).

11. P2 plays G1 and draws B5.

12. P3 clues 2 to P2 (6 clues).

And the game will look like this, with P1 to move:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: R4, Y3, G4, B(2), Y(2) Played: R1, Y1, G1, B1, W1
Player 2: G2, G(1), G(1), W3, Y2
Player 3: Y5, (R)4, W4, (R)3, G3 Discarded: B1, B2

'''Option 2'''

6. P3 clues 1 to P2 (5 clues). This move delays him playing the R1, but will make P2 more confident in discarding since he knows all the useless 1s.

7. P1 plays Y1 and draws Y5.

8. P2 plays G1 and draws Y3.

9. P3 plays R1 and draws G2.

10. P1 discards B2 and draws R4 (6 clues).

11. P2 discards B1 and draws B5 (7 clues).

12. P3 clues 2 to P2 (6 clues).

And the game will look like this, with P1 to move:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: R4, Y5, G4, B(2), Y(2) Played: R1, Y1, G1, B1, W1
Player 2: Y3, G(1), W3, Y2, B(1)
Player 3: G2, (R)4, W4, (R)3, G3 Discarded: B2, B1

Both options are equally valid. They end up in the same situation, with only the cards in hands being in a different order. Since the cards are picked at random, there is no valid reason to say one option is better than the other.

In both options, the 2-clue is given to P1, to mark both 2s as playable. Since all 1s are played, all 2s will be playable.
Note that, in this game, two 1s where marked with one clue (and played); and two 2s were marked with one clue (and will be played). As stated in the beginning, there are a total of 21 clues (in this variant) to mark 25 cards. At this point in the game, there are 16 clues left to mark 18 cards. With only two more "efficient" clues, the game can end with a perfect score.

== Advanced Moves ==

=== Intentional Discard ===

Sometimes players can have hands where all cards are important and unplayable. To tell a player that his hand blocked, discard your '''CHOP''' card, even when you know you have a playable card. This is often done when you are low on (or out of) clue-tokens. This is a risky move, since your team mate(s) might expect you to play, instead of discard. ('''always try to give him clue to give and play his hand as fast as it possible''')

=== Positional Discard ===

Sometimes at the end of the game you will have no useful cards to play. You want to give a clue, but you have no remaining clue-tokens. In this case, you can discard the card in the same position as the card that you want that player to play.

<code>
Example Positional Discard

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R5, Y5, G4, B5, W5
Player 2: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?3
Player 3: G5, B2, R4, B3, W1 Discarded: -
</code>
In this example, when there are no clue-tokens left, Player 2 can discard his DRAW, to indicate to Player 3 the position of the last remaining playable card.

=== Hint to Discard ===

You can hint to a player to discard specific cards in order to save multiple cards, to to save cards without causing a confusion about finesse/reverse.

<code>
Example Hint to Discard
In this example, all 1s have been played already. Both the Y3 and the G4 need to be saved.

Player 1: G1, R1, B4, Y3, G4
</code>
If Player 1 is given a 4-clue, the G4 will be saved, but the Y3 will be the new CHOP card. One option to save both Y3, and G4 is to give Player 1, a 1-clue. This would make the R1 the new CHOP card, and the G1 will be the next CHOP card.

=== Double Save ===

This is an alternative solution if you are low on clue-tokens, or don't have enough players to execute multiple saves in a row.

<code>
Example Double Save
In this example, W1 has not been played yet. Both the Y3 and the G4 need to be saved.

Player 1: G1, R1, B4, Y3, G4
</code>
This situation is similar as the Hint to Discard. However, in this situation a 1-clue will be interpreted as PLAY G1 (which isn't playable). To save both Y3 and G4, a blue-clue can be given to Player 1. This will cause him to BOMB on B4 (which isn't playable). But this tells him that all the cards RIGHT of the B4 needed to be saved. Note that this is a desperate measure, because it costs 2 clue-tokens (1 for the blue-clue and 1 for the BOMB card that should have been discarded) for 2 saves, but gives you no information about the saved cards.

----

'''2P GAMES''' 
With 2 players, you are limited in your options. Therefore the gameplay is different from 3+P games.

----

'''3+P GAMES''' 
=== Prompt ===
A prompt can clarify (an) already marked card(s) to be played as well as mark the next card to play.

<code>
Example Prompt

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y1, G0, B2, W0
Player 2: ??, ??, ??, ?2, ?5
Player 3: Y3, G5, R4, B3, W1 Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 give a yellow-clue to Player 3, marking Y3 as PLAY. Player 2 sees that the Y3 is ALMOST playable. This means that Player 2 has the LOGICAL in-between step: Player 2 has to play Y2. In this case, the Y2 is not on the DRAW card. The logical place for that card is the already marked 2. So Player 2 can assume that his card between the CHOP and the 5 is the Y2.

=== Finesse ===
This advanced move, can get you 2 cards into play, with only 1 clue-token. You do this, by marking an ALMOST playable card as playable. Someone else will have to play the LOGICAL in-between step, to make the card genuinely playable.

<code>
Example Finesse (#1)

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0
Player 2: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?5
Player 3: G5, B2, R4, B3, W1 Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 gives a blue-clue to Player 3, marking B2 as PLAY, and B3 as SAVE. Player 2 sees that the B2 is ALMOST playable. This means that Player 2 has the LOGICAL inbetween step: Player 2 has to play B1. The only logical place for that card is at the '''LEFT-MOST POSITION''' so Player 2 can assume that the '''DRAW''' card is the playable B1. If it was somewhere else in your hand, the card would have been clued earlier. '''Note: for the in-between player, a prompt always has priority over a finesse; if a player has a marked card that can be the in-between card, they should play it.'''

<code>
Example Finesse (#2)

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?? Played: R0, Y1, G2, B0, W1
Player 2: Y2, R1, R1, G5, W5
Player 3: XX, XX, R2, XX, XX Discarded: G4, R3
</code>

Player 1 gives a 5-clue to Player 2, saving W5 and G5 from being discarded. Player 2 sees nothing of interest in the hand of Player 3, so discards his CHOP (R1) and draws R4. Player 3 gives a setup for Player 1 by marking Y2 with a yellow-clue. The game now looks like this:
<code>
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?? Played: R0, Y1, G2, B0, W1
Player 2: R4,*Y2, R1, G5*,W5*
Player 3: XX, XX, R2, XX, XX Discarded: G4, R3, R1
</code>

Player 1 can't give a red-clue to Player 2, because this would cause Player 2 to bomb with r4. Instead, Player 1 now gives a red-clue to Player 3, marking R2 as PLAY. Player 2 sees that the R2 is ALMOST playable. This means that Player 2 has the LOGICAL inbetween step: Player 2 has to play R1. Player 2 knows that R2 can only be at the DRAW position, or at the middle position. Since Player 1 deliberately let Player 2 discard a playable 1 the round before, Player 2 concludes that she was already holding a second R1 at the time. Therefore, the LOGICAL place for the R1 to be, is at the middle position; NOT the DRAW position.

=== Bluff ===
This works the same as finesse. Only this time, the LOGICAL inbetween step, is a different playable card, so the player is tricked. It is slightly less strong that finesse, because it gives 1 play + 1 save for 1 clue-token.

<code>
Example Bluff

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0
Player 2: W1, B2, R4, B3, G5
Player 3: ??, ??, ??, ??, R? Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 gives a red-clue to Player 3, marking it as PLAY. Player 2 sees that the R2 is ALMOST playable, so applies finesse logic and plays his DRAW card. Much to Player 2's surprise, he has not played R1, but W1 (which was also playable). Because Player 3 saw Player 2 playing his DRAW, which was a different colour than the clue he received, Player 3 knows it was a bluffed finesse situation. He concludes that his red card is R2, and saves it for later.

=== Reverse ===
This works the same as finesse. Only this time, the LOGICAL inbetween step, is a different players hand. This also gets 2 plays for 1 clue-token, but takes longer than a normal finesse.

<code>
Example Reverse

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0
Player 2: ??, ??, W?, ??, ??
Player 3: W1, B2, R4, B3, G5 Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 gives a white-clue to Player 2, marking it as PLAY. However, Player 2 sees that the DRAW card of Player 3 is a playable card of the same colour. Therefore, Player 2 assumes that it is (reversed) finesse, and that his white is ALMOST playable. Player 2 decides to discard his CHOP. Player 3 recognises the (reversed) finesse play, and plays his DRAW card to play the W1.

''Having the optimal player draw the last card (endgame)''

At the end of the game, the person who draws the last card (which happens either by playing or discarding) triggers the end of the game. After the last card is drawn, each player receives exactly one more turn. Sometimes near the end of the game you will want a specific player to play or discard in order to get the last turn. Giving an unusable clue can prevent a player from drawing the last card and begin the last round.

<code>
Table:
 '''1 card remaining in deck - Your turn'''
 R Y G B W M
 5 5 3 4 5 5

XX|XX|5b - me

??|??|3? - you

1y|4g|5g - 3rd player
</code>

In this situation, assume everyone knows where the remaining playable cards are. Instead of discarding in this situation, you want the 3rd player be the one to play and draw the last card. Give any clue to prevent triggering the endgame so that 3rd player can play 4g triggering the endgame and then in their last turn play the 5g.

== Strategies for 2-Player games ==
'''Strategy #1'''
Pro's: Easy to execute 
Con's: Double discard possible for 4s. Easy to get the hands locked. 

''Guidelines'' 
1. Number-clue means “save all the cards that were marked by this clue”. Try to give save-clues as late as possible.

2. Non-unique 2s and 3s must be saved as much as possible. (Try to avoid double saves if possible.) Uniques should always be saved.

3. Colour-clues mean “play the newest card that was marked by this clue”. Other cards that are marked by the clue may be discarded when not previously marked by a number-clue.

4. If more than 5 clue-tokens are available, discarding unknown cards should be avoided, but known useless cards may be discarded freely.

5. If there are less than 2 clue-tokens available, colour-clues may be given only
a. If it leads to two or more plays in a row.
b. If the playable card is on CHOP.

6. A colour-clue may re-mark a card that’s already marked by a number if:
a. It also marks a previously unmarked card that is playable. (Either immediately, or immediately after playing the card that was marked with a number.)
b. As a stall-clue (see 7).

7. When just 2 of the hand-slots are filled with non-saved cards, that player should try to avoid discarding two turns in a row (including the turn after the save-clue that leads to this state).

8. If a clue is given while avoiding discarding twice in a row: guideline 4 no longer applies; also stall clues may be given:
a. A colour-clue that re-marks a saved card, without marking an unmarked card. For example to indicate an accidental double save, or to clarify a playable card.
b. An empty-clue: a clue that marks none of the cards. This can be used to convey information on multiple playable cards.
c. A 5-clue. If 5a and 5b are not possible, a re-clue on the 5s is allowed.

9. Nearing the end of the game, when the number of saved cards in all the hands + the number of cards in the deck is equal to the number of card that need to be played to get the maximum (possible) score, discarding should be avoided as much as possible - so stall clues may be given, non-unique 4s may be saved, etc.

'''Strategy #2'''
Pro's: Guarantees a score of 28+ 
Con's: Easy to get the hands locked. 

''Guidelines'' 
The game is divided into three stages:
1. The early game: The first 3 or 4 moves of the game.
2. The mid game: Everything that's not early or late game.
3. The late game: The last moves, starting from the point where the number of "saved cards" + deck = maximum achievable score.

In the early game, the goal is to 'sort' the hand cards into "old" cards and "new" cards. Since all cards are equally old in the beginning, it is unclear which cards are relevant, and which aren't. In order to do so, players follow these guidelines:
1. Players are not allowed to discard before 3 clue-tokens are spent.
2. After the early game, the right-most unclued cards will be considered "old" and therefore discardable. So the focus of the clues in the early game should be to save the valuable three right-most cards.
3. 1s should be marked with colour as much as possible.
4. A 1-clue should only be given when it marks three or more unique 1s.
5. 4-clues should only be given, when the 4 is blocking a colour-clue in the future. Cards marked with 4 in the early game should be discarded in the mid game.

In the mid game, the goal is to play as many playable cards as possible, and save as many useful cards as possible. In order to do so, players follow these guidelines:
1. Players will be as efficient as possible with clue-tokens. Re-marking cards (spending a clue-token that gives MORE information on a saved card) is highly discouraged.
2. All 2s, 3s and 5s must be saved, even when the 2s or 3s are not unique.
3a. Any clue means "play the newest, PREVIOUSLY UNMARKED, card". With the exception of a SAVE-clue, or a correction-clue.
3b. A card can be saved in four possible ways:
I. A number-clue that marks the CHOP card.
II. A colour-clue that marks a PLAY card, and in addition marks another card of the same colour. This other card is saved.
III. A SCREAM discard. When player 1 knows he can play a card, but still chooses to discard, it is called a SCREAM discard. This signals to player 2 that he CHOP card must be saved. It is recommended that player 2 spends the token, in case he has a long chain of cards that need saving.
IV. A deliberate misplay. When player 1 gives player 2 a PLAY-clue, that causes player 2 to BOMB, player 2 knows to SAVE all the cards OLDER than the card that was used to bomb.
3c. When a useless card is marked as SAVE, it is desired to give a correction-clue. This re-marks the card, indicating its uselessness. Preferably, this shouldn't mark any other cards. When it does, the clue is a PLAY-clue with the correction as an additional benefit.
4. Double discarding (discarding a card that could be the same card that was just discarded), is not allowed.
5. Play-clues shouldn't be given when there are 3 or less clue-tokens available, except when it leads to more than 1 PLAY.
6. When a player has only two unmarked cards in his hand (all other slots are filled with SAVES), then this player should keep discarding to a minimum.
7. When a player has only one unmarked card in his hand, then this player is forbidden to discard two turns in a row.

In the end game, the goal is to get the last remaining cards sorted in the correct hands, to maximise the score. This is achieved, by following these guidelines:
1. Discarding is highly discouraged. If there are enough clue-tokens, then stall-clues should be given.
2. Playable cards must be prioritised based on the number of plays it unlocks. This way the number of SAVED cards in hands is minimised.
3. It is recommended that both players keep at least one 5 in their hand. This way, in the last turn, both players can make a final move.

Tips hanabi

2018-02-28T16:39:00Z

Gamersktrashcan: /* Strategies for 2-Player games */

This guide is for strategy tips: How to interpret clues, how to give clues, how to decide to play, discard or clue. Click [http://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/Gamehelphanabi here] for the introduction to the game.

== General ==
On BGA, there is no 1-strategy-to-be-played. However, if people start playing different strategies in 1 game, the game is doomed to fail. That is why communication in advance is very important, and why most hanabi-players get a lot of red thumbs. (Different strategy is interpreted as ruining the game.)

The strategies explained in this guide all have 1 goal in mind: to get the highest possible score, in the most amount of games. There are people who find score less important, and want to challenge themselves logically, or "just want to have fun". Again, communication in advance of the game is key.

Imagine this 'ideal' game. You play with 3 players and reach the maximum score of 25 points (5-colour game). At the end, there will be (at least) 12 cards left in the hands of the players, (at least) 1 clue token available and 25 cards will have been played. This means, that from the 50 cards of the deck, (50 - 25 - 12 =) 13 cards have been discarded and converted into clue tokens. You get 8 clue tokens at the start, and you will have gotten a 5 clue tokens from playing the 5s. This means that in the entire game, there were 13 (discards) + 8 (start) + 5 (completing a colour) - 1 (token left at the end) = 25 clue tokens available for playing.

On average, this means 1 clue token per 1 playable card. No matter what variant you play, you will end up with roughly this number. (Worst: 5-player game, with players that have 4 cards in their hands, playing 5 colours. This gives 22 tokens for 25 cards = 0.88 clue token per card. Best: 2-player game, with players that have 6 cards in their hands, playing 6 colours. This gives 35 tokens for 30 cards = 1.17 token per card.)

All strategies below are based on an optimisation of economical use of the clue-tokens.

== Basics ==

The basic game, plays with 50 cards: 10 for each colour. If you want to get the maximum score of 25 points, you need to play 25 cards. Some of the cards are left in the players hands at the end of the game. Depending on the number of players, this will be 8, 12, 12, or 15 (for 2p, 3p, 4p, and 5p respectively). This means in the entire game, there are 17, 13, or 10 cards that can be discarded for clues. You also get 8 clue tokens at the start, making the total number of clues in the entire game 25, 21, or 18. This gives the logical conclusion that you can not clue the colour AND number for every card in your hand, because there are simply not enough clues.

It is therefore paramount, that only useful cards are clued. If you mark a card that you know will not be played, it will cost another clue (-1) to make your team mate discard that card to gain a clue (+1), which is a net result of 0. If the card is not marked, your team mate will discard it eventually to gain a clue (+1), which is a net result of +1.

This leads to '''Basic Rule #1''' (cluing).

Every card that is marked, is either
a) (a) useful card(s) to be saved (interpret it as PLAY LATER), or
b) a useful card to be played (interpret it as PLAY NOW).
Therefore: '''NEVER mark useless cards'''

Most hanabi-players on BGA play by this main rule. So when a clue is given, ask yourself "Is this clue to save something"? If not, it is to get played.
Saving cards is important because there are only 2 cards of value 2, 3, and 4 in each suit, and only 1 card of value 5. To not get stuck on that colour it is urgent to keep the last copy of a card safe (prevent from discarding it).

The game interface puts every new card you draw, on the left-hand side of your hand. This means, the left-most card is the newest card, which makes your right-most card automatically the oldest. If a card has been in your hand for a long time, and you have not been given a clue that marks it, it is logical that it is a useless card and safe to discard.

Hence, '''Basic Rule #2''' (discarding).
'''Discard first what you know is useless (like a clued 1 when all 1s are already played). After that: discard your oldest (right-most) unclued card.'''

Note, that this rule is already a bit tricky. At the start of the game, every card can be considered equally old. This is where personal preference of players starts to matter.

Another result from the newest --> oldest order, is the interpretation of multiple marked cards. When you get a clue that marks multiple cards, and you can identify it is in fact a clue for play (see Basic Rule 1), you should play the newest (left-most) card. If an older card was "the playable card", it would probably be clued earlier. The logical conclusion must be, that the newest card, was the card you all have been waiting for, and you happened to draw it.

'''Basic Rule #3''' (playing).
'''Play the newer (left-most) clued card'''

So most people on BGA expect you to ONLY play the clued card on the left. The rest of the cards are just to be kept on your hand. Beware that there are different approaches and not all players play by this convention.

== Basic Example ==

Imagine the following starting situation:
(oldest ... newest)
Player 1: W1, Y1, B2, Y2, B2
Player 2: G1, G1, W3, Y2, B1
Player 3: B1, R4, W4, R3, G3

P1 can clue 1s to P2. But that will mark both G1's, so it's not the best option. Better is for P1 to clue P3 1s, or blue. (If BLUE-clue is given, then P3 will not worry about the B1 in P2's hand that is about to be discarded. Both 1-clue or BLUE-clue only mark 1 card, so give equal information about the other cards in P3's hand.)

P2 will clue 1s to P1. He knows that P3 prefers to play his 1. And P2 is the only person who can see that the 1s in both P1's hand, and P3's hand are different.

Everyone will have to wait for B2 to be discarded, before the second B2 can be clued. Everyone will also have to wait for G1 to be discarded, before the second G1 can be clued. Alternatively, when R1 is drawn and clued, then both G1's may be clued, since all 1's will be played and all cards marked 1 can be safely discarded.

So, the first four moves are:

1. P1 clues BLUE to P3 (7 clue-tokens).

2. P2 clues 1 to P1 (6 clue-tokens).

3. P3 plays B1 and draws R1.

4. P1 plays W1 and draws G4.

The game now looks like this, with P2 to move:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: G4, Y(1), B2, Y2, B2 Played: R0, Y0, G0, B1, W1
Player 2: G1, G1, W3, Y2, B1
Player 3: R1, R4, W4, R3, G3 Discarded: -

5. P2 clues RED to P3.

There are two possible continuations from here.
'''Option 1'''

6. P3 plays R1 and draws Y5.

7. P1 plays Y1 and draws Y3.

8. P2 discards B1 and draws G2 (7 clues).

9. P3 clues 1 to P2 (6 clues).

10. P1 discards B2 and draws R4 (7 clues).

11. P2 plays G1 and draws B5.

12. P3 clues 2 to P2 (6 clues).

And the game will look like this, with P1 to move:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: R4, Y3, G4, B(2), Y(2) Played: R1, Y1, G1, B1, W1
Player 2: G2, G(1), G(1), W3, Y2
Player 3: Y5, (R)4, W4, (R)3, G3 Discarded: B1, B2

'''Option 2'''

6. P3 clues 1 to P2 (5 clues). This move delays him playing the R1, but will make P2 more confident in discarding since he knows all the useless 1s.

7. P1 plays Y1 and draws Y5.

8. P2 plays G1 and draws Y3.

9. P3 plays R1 and draws G2.

10. P1 discards B2 and draws R4 (6 clues).

11. P2 discards B1 and draws B5 (7 clues).

12. P3 clues 2 to P2 (6 clues).

And the game will look like this, with P1 to move:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: R4, Y5, G4, B(2), Y(2) Played: R1, Y1, G1, B1, W1
Player 2: Y3, G(1), W3, Y2, B(1)
Player 3: G2, (R)4, W4, (R)3, G3 Discarded: B2, B1

Both options are equally valid. They end up in the same situation, with only the cards in hands being in a different order. Since the cards are picked at random, there is no valid reason to say one option is better than the other.

In both options, the 2-clue is given to P1, to mark both 2s as playable. Since all 1s are played, all 2s will be playable.
Note that, in this game, two 1s where marked with one clue (and played); and two 2s were marked with one clue (and will be played). As stated in the beginning, there are a total of 21 clues (in this variant) to mark 25 cards. At this point in the game, there are 16 clues left to mark 18 cards. With only two more "efficient" clues, the game can end with a perfect score.

== Advanced Moves ==

=== Intentional Discard ===

Sometimes players can have hands where all cards are important and unplayable. To tell a player that his hand blocked, discard your '''CHOP''' card, even when you know you have a playable card. This is often done when you are low on (or out of) clue-tokens. This is a risky move, since your team mate(s) might expect you to play, instead of discard. ('''always try to give him clue to give and play his hand as fast as it possible''')

=== Positional Discard ===

Sometimes at the end of the game you will have no useful cards to play. You want to give a clue, but you have no remaining clue-tokens. In this case, you can discard the card in the same position as the card that you want that player to play.

<code>
Example Positional Discard

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R5, Y5, G4, B5, W5
Player 2: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?3
Player 3: G5, B2, R4, B3, W1 Discarded: -
</code>
In this example, when there are no clue-tokens left, Player 2 can discard his DRAW, to indicate to Player 3 the position of the last remaining playable card.

=== Hint to Discard ===

You can hint to a player to discard specific cards in order to save multiple cards, to to save cards without causing a confusion about finesse/reverse.

<code>
Example Hint to Discard
In this example, all 1s have been played already. Both the Y3 and the G4 need to be saved.

Player 1: G1, R1, B4, Y3, G4
</code>
If Player 1 is given a 4-clue, the G4 will be saved, but the Y3 will be the new CHOP card. One option to save both Y3, and G4 is to give Player 1, a 1-clue. This would make the R1 the new CHOP card, and the G1 will be the next CHOP card.

=== Double Save ===

This is an alternative solution if you are low on clue-tokens, or don't have enough players to execute multiple saves in a row.

<code>
Example Double Save
In this example, W1 has not been played yet. Both the Y3 and the G4 need to be saved.

Player 1: G1, R1, B4, Y3, G4
</code>
This situation is similar as the Hint to Discard. However, in this situation a 1-clue will be interpreted as PLAY G1 (which isn't playable). To save both Y3 and G4, a blue-clue can be given to Player 1. This will cause him to BOMB on B4 (which isn't playable). But this tells him that all the cards RIGHT of the B4 needed to be saved. Note that this is a desperate measure, because it costs 2 clue-tokens (1 for the blue-clue and 1 for the BOMB card that should have been discarded) for 2 saves, but gives you no information about the saved cards.

----

'''2P GAMES''' 
With 2 players, you are limited in your options. Therefore the gameplay is different from 3+P games.

----

'''3+P GAMES''' 
=== Prompt ===
A prompt can clarify (an) already marked card(s) to be played as well as mark the next card to play.

<code>
Example Prompt

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y1, G0, B2, W0
Player 2: ??, ??, ??, ?2, ?5
Player 3: Y3, G5, R4, B3, W1 Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 give a yellow-clue to Player 3, marking Y3 as PLAY. Player 2 sees that the Y3 is ALMOST playable. This means that Player 2 has the LOGICAL in-between step: Player 2 has to play Y2. In this case, the Y2 is not on the DRAW card. The logical place for that card is the already marked 2. So Player 2 can assume that his card between the CHOP and the 5 is the Y2.

=== Finesse ===
This advanced move, can get you 2 cards into play, with only 1 clue-token. You do this, by marking an ALMOST playable card as playable. Someone else will have to play the LOGICAL in-between step, to make the card genuinely playable.

<code>
Example Finesse (#1)

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0
Player 2: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?5
Player 3: G5, B2, R4, B3, W1 Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 gives a blue-clue to Player 3, marking B2 as PLAY, and B3 as SAVE. Player 2 sees that the B2 is ALMOST playable. This means that Player 2 has the LOGICAL inbetween step: Player 2 has to play B1. The only logical place for that card is at the '''LEFT-MOST POSITION''' so Player 2 can assume that the '''DRAW''' card is the playable B1. If it was somewhere else in your hand, the card would have been clued earlier. '''Note: for the in-between player, a prompt always has priority over a finesse; if a player has a marked card that can be the in-between card, they should play it.'''

<code>
Example Finesse (#2)

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?? Played: R0, Y1, G2, B0, W1
Player 2: Y2, R1, R1, G5, W5
Player 3: XX, XX, R2, XX, XX Discarded: G4, R3
</code>

Player 1 gives a 5-clue to Player 2, saving W5 and G5 from being discarded. Player 2 sees nothing of interest in the hand of Player 3, so discards his CHOP (R1) and draws R4. Player 3 gives a setup for Player 1 by marking Y2 with a yellow-clue. The game now looks like this:
<code>
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?? Played: R0, Y1, G2, B0, W1
Player 2: R4,*Y2, R1, G5*,W5*
Player 3: XX, XX, R2, XX, XX Discarded: G4, R3, R1
</code>

Player 1 can't give a red-clue to Player 2, because this would cause Player 2 to bomb with r4. Instead, Player 1 now gives a red-clue to Player 3, marking R2 as PLAY. Player 2 sees that the R2 is ALMOST playable. This means that Player 2 has the LOGICAL inbetween step: Player 2 has to play R1. Player 2 knows that R2 can only be at the DRAW position, or at the middle position. Since Player 1 deliberately let Player 2 discard a playable 1 the round before, Player 2 concludes that she was already holding a second R1 at the time. Therefore, the LOGICAL place for the R1 to be, is at the middle position; NOT the DRAW position.

=== Bluff ===
This works the same as finesse. Only this time, the LOGICAL inbetween step, is a different playable card, so the player is tricked. It is slightly less strong that finesse, because it gives 1 play + 1 save for 1 clue-token.

<code>
Example Bluff

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0
Player 2: W1, B2, R4, B3, G5
Player 3: ??, ??, ??, ??, R? Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 gives a red-clue to Player 3, marking it as PLAY. Player 2 sees that the R2 is ALMOST playable, so applies finesse logic and plays his DRAW card. Much to Player 2's surprise, he has not played R1, but W1 (which was also playable). Because Player 3 saw Player 2 playing his DRAW, which was a different colour than the clue he received, Player 3 knows it was a bluffed finesse situation. He concludes that his red card is R2, and saves it for later.

=== Reverse ===
This works the same as finesse. Only this time, the LOGICAL inbetween step, is a different players hand. This also gets 2 plays for 1 clue-token, but takes longer than a normal finesse.

<code>
Example Reverse

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0
Player 2: ??, ??, W?, ??, ??
Player 3: W1, B2, R4, B3, G5 Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 gives a white-clue to Player 2, marking it as PLAY. However, Player 2 sees that the DRAW card of Player 3 is a playable card of the same colour. Therefore, Player 2 assumes that it is (reversed) finesse, and that his white is ALMOST playable. Player 2 decides to discard his CHOP. Player 3 recognises the (reversed) finesse play, and plays his DRAW card to play the W1.

''Having the optimal player draw the last card (endgame)''

At the end of the game, the person who draws the last card (which happens either by playing or discarding) triggers the end of the game. After the last card is drawn, each player receives exactly one more turn. Sometimes near the end of the game you will want a specific player to play or discard in order to get the last turn. Giving an unusable clue can prevent a player from drawing the last card and begin the last round.

<code>
Table:
 '''1 card remaining in deck - Your turn'''
 R Y G B W M
 5 5 3 4 5 5

XX|XX|5b - me

??|??|3? - you

1y|4g|5g - 3rd player
</code>

In this situation, assume everyone knows where the remaining playable cards are. Instead of discarding in this situation, you want the 3rd player be the one to play and draw the last card. Give any clue to prevent triggering the endgame so that 3rd player can play 4g triggering the endgame and then in their last turn play the 5g.

== Strategies for 2-Player games ==
'''Strategy #1'''
Pro's: Easy to execute
Con's: Double discard possible for 4s. Easy to get the hands locked.

''Guidelines'' 
1. Number-clue means “save all the cards that were marked by this clue”. Try to give save-clues as late as possible.

2. Non-unique 2s and 3s must be saved as much as possible. (Try to avoid double saves if possible.) Uniques should always be saved.

3. Colour-clues mean “play the newest card that was marked by this clue”. Other cards that are marked by the clue may be discarded when not previously marked by a number-clue.

4. If more than 5 clue-tokens are available, discarding unknown cards should be avoided, but known useless cards may be discarded freely.

5. If there are less than 2 clue-tokens available, colour-clues may be given only
a. If it leads to two or more plays in a row.
b. If the playable card is on CHOP.

6. A colour-clue may re-mark a card that’s already marked by a number if:
a. It also marks a previously unmarked card that is playable. (Either immediately, or immediately after playing the card that was marked with a number.)
b. As a stall-clue (see 7).

7. When just 2 of the hand-slots are filled with non-saved cards, that player should try to avoid discarding two turns in a row (including the turn after the save-clue that leads to this state).

8. If a clue is given while avoiding discarding twice in a row: guideline 4 no longer applies; also stall clues may be given:
a. A colour-clue that re-marks a saved card, without marking an unmarked card. For example to indicate an accidental double save, or to clarify a playable card.
b. An empty-clue: a clue that marks none of the cards. This can be used to convey information on multiple playable cards.
c. A 5-clue. If 5a and 5b are not possible, a re-clue on the 5s is allowed.

9. Nearing the end of the game, when the number of saved cards in all the hands + the number of cards in the deck is equal to the number of card that need to be played to get the maximum (possible) score, discarding should be avoided as much as possible - so stall clues may be given, non-unique 4s may be saved, etc.

Tips hanabi

2018-02-27T22:26:28Z

Gamersktrashcan: /* Strategies for 2-Player games */

This guide is for strategy tips: How to interpret clues, how to give clues, how to decide to play, discard or clue. Click [http://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/Gamehelphanabi here] for the introduction to the game.

== General ==
On BGA, there is no 1-strategy-to-be-played. However, if people start playing different strategies in 1 game, the game is doomed to fail. That is why communication in advance is very important, and why most hanabi-players get a lot of red thumbs. (Different strategy is interpreted as ruining the game.)

The strategies explained in this guide all have 1 goal in mind: to get the highest possible score, in the most amount of games. There are people who find score less important, and want to challenge themselves logically, or "just want to have fun". Again, communication in advance of the game is key.

Imagine this 'ideal' game. You play with 3 players and reach the maximum score of 25 points (5-colour game). At the end, there will be (at least) 12 cards left in the hands of the players, (at least) 1 clue token available and 25 cards will have been played. This means, that from the 50 cards of the deck, (50 - 25 - 12 =) 13 cards have been discarded and converted into clue tokens. You get 8 clue tokens at the start, and you will have gotten a 5 clue tokens from playing the 5s. This means that in the entire game, there were 13 (discards) + 8 (start) + 5 (completing a colour) - 1 (token left at the end) = 25 clue tokens available for playing.

On average, this means 1 clue token per 1 playable card. No matter what variant you play, you will end up with roughly this number. (Worst: 5-player game, with players that have 4 cards in their hands, playing 5 colours. This gives 22 tokens for 25 cards = 0.88 clue token per card. Best: 2-player game, with players that have 6 cards in their hands, playing 6 colours. This gives 35 tokens for 30 cards = 1.17 token per card.)

All strategies below are based on an optimisation of economical use of the clue-tokens.

== Basics ==

The basic game, plays with 50 cards: 10 for each colour. If you want to get the maximum score of 25 points, you need to play 25 cards. Some of the cards are left in the players hands at the end of the game. Depending on the number of players, this will be 8, 12, 12, or 15 (for 2p, 3p, 4p, and 5p respectively). This means in the entire game, there are 17, 13, or 10 cards that can be discarded for clues. You also get 8 clue tokens at the start, making the total number of clues in the entire game 25, 21, or 18. This gives the logical conclusion that you can not clue the colour AND number for every card in your hand, because there are simply not enough clues.

It is therefore paramount, that only useful cards are clued. If you mark a card that you know will not be played, it will cost another clue (-1) to make your team mate discard that card to gain a clue (+1), which is a net result of 0. If the card is not marked, your team mate will discard it eventually to gain a clue (+1), which is a net result of +1.

This leads to '''Basic Rule #1''' (cluing).

Every card that is marked, is either
a) (a) useful card(s) to be saved (interpret it as PLAY LATER), or
b) a useful card to be played (interpret it as PLAY NOW).
Therefore: '''NEVER mark useless cards'''

Most hanabi-players on BGA play by this main rule. So when a clue is given, ask yourself "Is this clue to save something"? If not, it is to get played.
Saving cards is important because there are only 2 cards of value 2, 3, and 4 in each suit, and only 1 card of value 5. To not get stuck on that colour it is urgent to keep the last copy of a card safe (prevent from discarding it).

The game interface puts every new card you draw, on the left-hand side of your hand. This means, the left-most card is the newest card, which makes your right-most card automatically the oldest. If a card has been in your hand for a long time, and you have not been given a clue that marks it, it is logical that it is a useless card and safe to discard.

Hence, '''Basic Rule #2''' (discarding).
'''Discard first what you know is useless (like a clued 1 when all 1s are already played). After that: discard your oldest (right-most) unclued card.'''

Note, that this rule is already a bit tricky. At the start of the game, every card can be considered equally old. This is where personal preference of players starts to matter.

Another result from the newest --> oldest order, is the interpretation of multiple marked cards. When you get a clue that marks multiple cards, and you can identify it is in fact a clue for play (see Basic Rule 1), you should play the newest (left-most) card. If an older card was "the playable card", it would probably be clued earlier. The logical conclusion must be, that the newest card, was the card you all have been waiting for, and you happened to draw it.

'''Basic Rule #3''' (playing).
'''Play the newer (left-most) clued card'''

So most people on BGA expect you to ONLY play the clued card on the left. The rest of the cards are just to be kept on your hand. Beware that there are different approaches and not all players play by this convention.

== Basic Example ==

Imagine the following starting situation:
(oldest ... newest)
Player 1: W1, Y1, B2, Y2, B2
Player 2: G1, G1, W3, Y2, B1
Player 3: B1, R4, W4, R3, G3

P1 can clue 1s to P2. But that will mark both G1's, so it's not the best option. Better is for P1 to clue P3 1s, or blue. (If BLUE-clue is given, then P3 will not worry about the B1 in P2's hand that is about to be discarded. Both 1-clue or BLUE-clue only mark 1 card, so give equal information about the other cards in P3's hand.)

P2 will clue 1s to P1. He knows that P3 prefers to play his 1. And P2 is the only person who can see that the 1s in both P1's hand, and P3's hand are different.

Everyone will have to wait for B2 to be discarded, before the second B2 can be clued. Everyone will also have to wait for G1 to be discarded, before the second G1 can be clued. Alternatively, when R1 is drawn and clued, then both G1's may be clued, since all 1's will be played and all cards marked 1 can be safely discarded.

So, the first four moves are:

1. P1 clues BLUE to P3 (7 clue-tokens).

2. P2 clues 1 to P1 (6 clue-tokens).

3. P3 plays B1 and draws R1.

4. P1 plays W1 and draws G4.

The game now looks like this, with P2 to move:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: G4, Y(1), B2, Y2, B2 Played: R0, Y0, G0, B1, W1
Player 2: G1, G1, W3, Y2, B1
Player 3: R1, R4, W4, R3, G3 Discarded: -

5. P2 clues RED to P3.

There are two possible continuations from here.
'''Option 1'''

6. P3 plays R1 and draws Y5.

7. P1 plays Y1 and draws Y3.

8. P2 discards B1 and draws G2 (7 clues).

9. P3 clues 1 to P2 (6 clues).

10. P1 discards B2 and draws R4 (7 clues).

11. P2 plays G1 and draws B5.

12. P3 clues 2 to P2 (6 clues).

And the game will look like this, with P1 to move:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: R4, Y3, G4, B(2), Y(2) Played: R1, Y1, G1, B1, W1
Player 2: G2, G(1), G(1), W3, Y2
Player 3: Y5, (R)4, W4, (R)3, G3 Discarded: B1, B2

'''Option 2'''

6. P3 clues 1 to P2 (5 clues). This move delays him playing the R1, but will make P2 more confident in discarding since he knows all the useless 1s.

7. P1 plays Y1 and draws Y5.

8. P2 plays G1 and draws Y3.

9. P3 plays R1 and draws G2.

10. P1 discards B2 and draws R4 (6 clues).

11. P2 discards B1 and draws B5 (7 clues).

12. P3 clues 2 to P2 (6 clues).

And the game will look like this, with P1 to move:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: R4, Y5, G4, B(2), Y(2) Played: R1, Y1, G1, B1, W1
Player 2: Y3, G(1), W3, Y2, B(1)
Player 3: G2, (R)4, W4, (R)3, G3 Discarded: B2, B1

Both options are equally valid. They end up in the same situation, with only the cards in hands being in a different order. Since the cards are picked at random, there is no valid reason to say one option is better than the other.

In both options, the 2-clue is given to P1, to mark both 2s as playable. Since all 1s are played, all 2s will be playable.
Note that, in this game, two 1s where marked with one clue (and played); and two 2s were marked with one clue (and will be played). As stated in the beginning, there are a total of 21 clues (in this variant) to mark 25 cards. At this point in the game, there are 16 clues left to mark 18 cards. With only two more "efficient" clues, the game can end with a perfect score.

== Advanced Moves ==

=== Intentional Discard ===

Sometimes players can have hands where all cards are important and unplayable. To tell a player that his hand blocked, discard your '''CHOP''' card, even when you know you have a playable card. This is often done when you are low on (or out of) clue-tokens. This is a risky move, since your team mate(s) might expect you to play, instead of discard. ('''always try to give him clue to give and play his hand as fast as it possible''')

=== Positional Discard ===

Sometimes at the end of the game you will have no useful cards to play. You want to give a clue, but you have no remaining clue-tokens. In this case, you can discard the card in the same position as the card that you want that player to play.

<code>
Example Positional Discard

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R5, Y5, G4, B5, W5
Player 2: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?3
Player 3: G5, B2, R4, B3, W1 Discarded: -
</code>
In this example, when there are no clue-tokens left, Player 2 can discard his DRAW, to indicate to Player 3 the position of the last remaining playable card.

=== Hint to Discard ===

You can hint to a player to discard specific cards in order to save multiple cards, to to save cards without causing a confusion about finesse/reverse.

<code>
Example Hint to Discard
In this example, all 1s have been played already. Both the Y3 and the G4 need to be saved.

Player 1: G1, R1, B4, Y3, G4
</code>
If Player 1 is given a 4-clue, the G4 will be saved, but the Y3 will be the new CHOP card. One option to save both Y3, and G4 is to give Player 1, a 1-clue. This would make the R1 the new CHOP card, and the G1 will be the next CHOP card.

=== Double Save ===

This is an alternative solution if you are low on clue-tokens, or don't have enough players to execute multiple saves in a row.

<code>
Example Double Save
In this example, W1 has not been played yet. Both the Y3 and the G4 need to be saved.

Player 1: G1, R1, B4, Y3, G4
</code>
This situation is similar as the Hint to Discard. However, in this situation a 1-clue will be interpreted as PLAY G1 (which isn't playable). To save both Y3 and G4, a blue-clue can be given to Player 1. This will cause him to BOMB on B4 (which isn't playable). But this tells him that all the cards RIGHT of the B4 needed to be saved. Note that this is a desperate measure, because it costs 2 clue-tokens (1 for the blue-clue and 1 for the BOMB card that should have been discarded) for 2 saves, but gives you no information about the saved cards.

----

'''2P GAMES''' 
With 2 players, you are limited in your options. Therefore the gameplay is different from 3+P games.

----

'''3+P GAMES''' 
=== Prompt ===
A prompt can clarify (an) already marked card(s) to be played as well as mark the next card to play.

<code>
Example Prompt

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y1, G0, B2, W0
Player 2: ??, ??, ??, ?2, ?5
Player 3: Y3, G5, R4, B3, W1 Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 give a yellow-clue to Player 3, marking Y3 as PLAY. Player 2 sees that the Y3 is ALMOST playable. This means that Player 2 has the LOGICAL in-between step: Player 2 has to play Y2. In this case, the Y2 is not on the DRAW card. The logical place for that card is the already marked 2. So Player 2 can assume that his card between the CHOP and the 5 is the Y2.

=== Finesse ===
This advanced move, can get you 2 cards into play, with only 1 clue-token. You do this, by marking an ALMOST playable card as playable. Someone else will have to play the LOGICAL in-between step, to make the card genuinely playable.

<code>
Example Finesse (#1)

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0
Player 2: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?5
Player 3: G5, B2, R4, B3, W1 Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 gives a blue-clue to Player 3, marking B2 as PLAY, and B3 as SAVE. Player 2 sees that the B2 is ALMOST playable. This means that Player 2 has the LOGICAL inbetween step: Player 2 has to play B1. The only logical place for that card is at the '''LEFT-MOST POSITION''' so Player 2 can assume that the '''DRAW''' card is the playable B1. If it was somewhere else in your hand, the card would have been clued earlier. '''Note: for the in-between player, a prompt always has priority over a finesse; if a player has a marked card that can be the in-between card, they should play it.'''

<code>
Example Finesse (#2)

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?? Played: R0, Y1, G2, B0, W1
Player 2: Y2, R1, R1, G5, W5
Player 3: XX, XX, R2, XX, XX Discarded: G4, R3
</code>

Player 1 gives a 5-clue to Player 2, saving W5 and G5 from being discarded. Player 2 sees nothing of interest in the hand of Player 3, so discards his CHOP (R1) and draws R4. Player 3 gives a setup for Player 1 by marking Y2 with a yellow-clue. The game now looks like this:
<code>
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?? Played: R0, Y1, G2, B0, W1
Player 2: R4,*Y2, R1, G5*,W5*
Player 3: XX, XX, R2, XX, XX Discarded: G4, R3, R1
</code>

Player 1 can't give a red-clue to Player 2, because this would cause Player 2 to bomb with r4. Instead, Player 1 now gives a red-clue to Player 3, marking R2 as PLAY. Player 2 sees that the R2 is ALMOST playable. This means that Player 2 has the LOGICAL inbetween step: Player 2 has to play R1. Player 2 knows that R2 can only be at the DRAW position, or at the middle position. Since Player 1 deliberately let Player 2 discard a playable 1 the round before, Player 2 concludes that she was already holding a second R1 at the time. Therefore, the LOGICAL place for the R1 to be, is at the middle position; NOT the DRAW position.

=== Bluff ===
This works the same as finesse. Only this time, the LOGICAL inbetween step, is a different playable card, so the player is tricked. It is slightly less strong that finesse, because it gives 1 play + 1 save for 1 clue-token.

<code>
Example Bluff

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0
Player 2: W1, B2, R4, B3, G5
Player 3: ??, ??, ??, ??, R? Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 gives a red-clue to Player 3, marking it as PLAY. Player 2 sees that the R2 is ALMOST playable, so applies finesse logic and plays his DRAW card. Much to Player 2's surprise, he has not played R1, but W1 (which was also playable). Because Player 3 saw Player 2 playing his DRAW, which was a different colour than the clue he received, Player 3 knows it was a bluffed finesse situation. He concludes that his red card is R2, and saves it for later.

=== Reverse ===
This works the same as finesse. Only this time, the LOGICAL inbetween step, is a different players hand. This also gets 2 plays for 1 clue-token, but takes longer than a normal finesse.

<code>
Example Reverse

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0
Player 2: ??, ??, W?, ??, ??
Player 3: W1, B2, R4, B3, G5 Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 gives a white-clue to Player 2, marking it as PLAY. However, Player 2 sees that the DRAW card of Player 3 is a playable card of the same colour. Therefore, Player 2 assumes that it is (reversed) finesse, and that his white is ALMOST playable. Player 2 decides to discard his CHOP. Player 3 recognises the (reversed) finesse play, and plays his DRAW card to play the W1.

''Having the optimal player draw the last card (endgame)''

At the end of the game, the person who draws the last card (which happens either by playing or discarding) triggers the end of the game. After the last card is drawn, each player receives exactly one more turn. Sometimes near the end of the game you will want a specific player to play or discard in order to get the last turn. Giving an unusable clue can prevent a player from drawing the last card and begin the last round.

<code>
Table:
 '''1 card remaining in deck - Your turn'''
 R Y G B W M
 5 5 3 4 5 5

XX|XX|5b - me

??|??|3? - you

1y|4g|5g - 3rd player
</code>

In this situation, assume everyone knows where the remaining playable cards are. Instead of discarding in this situation, you want the 3rd player be the one to play and draw the last card. Give any clue to prevent triggering the endgame so that 3rd player can play 4g triggering the endgame and then in their last turn play the 5g.

== Strategies for 2-Player games ==
'''Strategy #1'''
Pro's: Easy to execute
Con's: Double discard possible for 4s. Easy to get the hands locked.

''Guidelines'' 
1. Number-clue means “save all the cards that were marked by this clue”. Try to give save-clues as late as possible.

2. Non-unique 2s and 3s must be saved as much as possible. (Try to avoid double saves if possible.) Uniques should always be saved.

3. Colour-clues mean “play the newest card that was marked by this clue”. Other cards that are marked by the clue may be discarded when not previously marked by a number-clue.

4. If more than 5 clue-tokens are available, discarding unknown cards should be avoided, but known useless cards may be discarded freely.

5. If there are less than 2 clue-tokens available, colour-clues may be given only
a. If it leads to two or more plays in a row.
b. If the playable card is on CHOP.

6. A colour-clue may re-mark a card that’s already marked by a number if:
a. It also marks a previously unmarked card that is playable. (Either immediately, or immediately after playing the card that was marked with a number.)
b. As a stall-clue (see 7).

7. When just 2 of the hand-slots are filled with non-saved cards, that player should try to avoid discarding two turns in a row (including the turn after the save-clue that leads to this state).

8. If a clue is given while avoiding discarding twice in a row: guideline 4 no longer applies; also stall clues may be given:
a. A colour-clue that re-marks a saved card, without marking an unmarked card. For example to indicate an accidental double save, or to clarify a playable card.
b. An empty-clue: a clue that marks none of the cards. This can be used to convey information on multiple playable cards.
c. A 5-clue. If 5a and 5b are not possible, a re-clue on the 5s is allowed.

9. Nearing the end of the game, when the number of saved cards in all the hands + the number of cards in the deck is equal to the number of card that need to be played to get the maximum (possible) score, discarding should be avoided as much as possible - so stall clues may be given.

Tips hanabi

2018-02-25T17:30:40Z

Gamersktrashcan: /* Strategies for 2-Player games */

This guide is for strategy tips: How to interpret clues, how to give clues, how to decide to play, discard or clue. Click [http://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/Gamehelphanabi here] for the introduction to the game.

== General ==
On BGA, there is no 1-strategy-to-be-played. However, if people start playing different strategies in 1 game, the game is doomed to fail. That is why communication in advance is very important, and why most hanabi-players get a lot of red thumbs. (Different strategy is interpreted as ruining the game.)

The strategies explained in this guide all have 1 goal in mind: to get the highest possible score, in the most amount of games. There are people who find score less important, and want to challenge themselves logically, or "just want to have fun". Again, communication in advance of the game is key.

Imagine this 'ideal' game. You play with 3 players and reach the maximum score of 25 points (5-colour game). At the end, there will be (at least) 12 cards left in the hands of the players, (at least) 1 clue token available and 25 cards will have been played. This means, that from the 50 cards of the deck, (50 - 25 - 12 =) 13 cards have been discarded and converted into clue tokens. You get 8 clue tokens at the start, and you will have gotten a 5 clue tokens from playing the 5s. This means that in the entire game, there were 13 (discards) + 8 (start) + 5 (completing a colour) - 1 (token left at the end) = 25 clue tokens available for playing.

On average, this means 1 clue token per 1 playable card. No matter what variant you play, you will end up with roughly this number. (Worst: 5-player game, with players that have 4 cards in their hands, playing 5 colours. This gives 22 tokens for 25 cards = 0.88 clue token per card. Best: 2-player game, with players that have 6 cards in their hands, playing 6 colours. This gives 35 tokens for 30 cards = 1.17 token per card.)

All strategies below are based on an optimisation of economical use of the clue-tokens.

== Basics ==

The basic game, plays with 50 cards: 10 for each colour. If you want to get the maximum score of 25 points, you need to play 25 cards. Some of the cards are left in the players hands at the end of the game. Depending on the number of players, this will be 8, 12, 12, or 15 (for 2p, 3p, 4p, and 5p respectively). This means in the entire game, there are 17, 13, or 10 cards that can be discarded for clues. You also get 8 clue tokens at the start, making the total number of clues in the entire game 25, 21, or 18. This gives the logical conclusion that you can not clue the colour AND number for every card in your hand, because there are simply not enough clues.

It is therefore paramount, that only useful cards are clued. If you mark a card that you know will not be played, it will cost another clue (-1) to make your team mate discard that card to gain a clue (+1), which is a net result of 0. If the card is not marked, your team mate will discard it eventually to gain a clue (+1), which is a net result of +1.

This leads to '''Basic Rule #1''' (cluing).

Every card that is marked, is either
a) (a) useful card(s) to be saved (interpret it as PLAY LATER), or
b) a useful card to be played (interpret it as PLAY NOW).
Therefore: '''NEVER mark useless cards'''

Most hanabi-players on BGA play by this main rule. So when a clue is given, ask yourself "Is this clue to save something"? If not, it is to get played.
Saving cards is important because there are only 2 cards of value 2, 3, and 4 in each suit, and only 1 card of value 5. To not get stuck on that colour it is urgent to keep the last copy of a card safe (prevent from discarding it).

The game interface puts every new card you draw, on the left-hand side of your hand. This means, the left-most card is the newest card, which makes your right-most card automatically the oldest. If a card has been in your hand for a long time, and you have not been given a clue that marks it, it is logical that it is a useless card and safe to discard.

Hence, '''Basic Rule #2''' (discarding).
'''Discard first what you know is useless (like a clued 1 when all 1s are already played). After that: discard your oldest (right-most) unclued card.'''

Note, that this rule is already a bit tricky. At the start of the game, every card can be considered equally old. This is where personal preference of players starts to matter.

Another result from the newest --> oldest order, is the interpretation of multiple marked cards. When you get a clue that marks multiple cards, and you can identify it is in fact a clue for play (see Basic Rule 1), you should play the newest (left-most) card. If an older card was "the playable card", it would probably be clued earlier. The logical conclusion must be, that the newest card, was the card you all have been waiting for, and you happened to draw it.

'''Basic Rule #3''' (playing).
'''Play the newer (left-most) clued card'''

So most people on BGA expect you to ONLY play the clued card on the left. The rest of the cards are just to be kept on your hand. Beware that there are different approaches and not all players play by this convention.

== Basic Example ==

Imagine the following starting situation:
(oldest ... newest)
Player 1: W1, Y1, B2, Y2, B2
Player 2: G1, G1, W3, Y2, B1
Player 3: B1, R4, W4, R3, G3

P1 can clue 1s to P2. But that will mark both G1's, so it's not the best option. Better is for P1 to clue P3 1s, or blue. (If BLUE-clue is given, then P3 will not worry about the B1 in P2's hand that is about to be discarded. Both 1-clue or BLUE-clue only mark 1 card, so give equal information about the other cards in P3's hand.)

P2 will clue 1s to P1. He knows that P3 prefers to play his 1. And P2 is the only person who can see that the 1s in both P1's hand, and P3's hand are different.

Everyone will have to wait for B2 to be discarded, before the second B2 can be clued. Everyone will also have to wait for G1 to be discarded, before the second G1 can be clued. Alternatively, when R1 is drawn and clued, then both G1's may be clued, since all 1's will be played and all cards marked 1 can be safely discarded.

So, the first four moves are:

1. P1 clues BLUE to P3 (7 clue-tokens).

2. P2 clues 1 to P1 (6 clue-tokens).

3. P3 plays B1 and draws R1.

4. P1 plays W1 and draws G4.

The game now looks like this, with P2 to move:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: G4, Y(1), B2, Y2, B2 Played: R0, Y0, G0, B1, W1
Player 2: G1, G1, W3, Y2, B1
Player 3: R1, R4, W4, R3, G3 Discarded: -

5. P2 clues RED to P3.

There are two possible continuations from here.
'''Option 1'''

6. P3 plays R1 and draws Y5.

7. P1 plays Y1 and draws Y3.

8. P2 discards B1 and draws G2 (7 clues).

9. P3 clues 1 to P2 (6 clues).

10. P1 discards B2 and draws R4 (7 clues).

11. P2 plays G1 and draws B5.

12. P3 clues 2 to P2 (6 clues).

And the game will look like this, with P1 to move:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: R4, Y3, G4, B(2), Y(2) Played: R1, Y1, G1, B1, W1
Player 2: G2, G(1), G(1), W3, Y2
Player 3: Y5, (R)4, W4, (R)3, G3 Discarded: B1, B2

'''Option 2'''

6. P3 clues 1 to P2 (5 clues). This move delays him playing the R1, but will make P2 more confident in discarding since he knows all the useless 1s.

7. P1 plays Y1 and draws Y5.

8. P2 plays G1 and draws Y3.

9. P3 plays R1 and draws G2.

10. P1 discards B2 and draws R4 (6 clues).

11. P2 discards B1 and draws B5 (7 clues).

12. P3 clues 2 to P2 (6 clues).

And the game will look like this, with P1 to move:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: R4, Y5, G4, B(2), Y(2) Played: R1, Y1, G1, B1, W1
Player 2: Y3, G(1), W3, Y2, B(1)
Player 3: G2, (R)4, W4, (R)3, G3 Discarded: B2, B1

Both options are equally valid. They end up in the same situation, with only the cards in hands being in a different order. Since the cards are picked at random, there is no valid reason to say one option is better than the other.

In both options, the 2-clue is given to P1, to mark both 2s as playable. Since all 1s are played, all 2s will be playable.
Note that, in this game, two 1s where marked with one clue (and played); and two 2s were marked with one clue (and will be played). As stated in the beginning, there are a total of 21 clues (in this variant) to mark 25 cards. At this point in the game, there are 16 clues left to mark 18 cards. With only two more "efficient" clues, the game can end with a perfect score.

== Advanced Moves ==

=== Intentional Discard ===

Sometimes players can have hands where all cards are important and unplayable. To tell a player that his hand blocked, discard your '''CHOP''' card, even when you know you have a playable card. This is often done when you are low on (or out of) clue-tokens. This is a risky move, since your team mate(s) might expect you to play, instead of discard. ('''always try to give him clue to give and play his hand as fast as it possible''')

=== Positional Discard ===

Sometimes at the end of the game you will have no useful cards to play. You want to give a clue, but you have no remaining clue-tokens. In this case, you can discard the card in the same position as the card that you want that player to play.

<code>
Example Positional Discard

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R5, Y5, G4, B5, W5
Player 2: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?3
Player 3: G5, B2, R4, B3, W1 Discarded: -
</code>
In this example, when there are no clue-tokens left, Player 2 can discard his DRAW, to indicate to Player 3 the position of the last remaining playable card.

=== Hint to Discard ===

You can hint to a player to discard specific cards in order to save multiple cards, to to save cards without causing a confusion about finesse/reverse.

<code>
Example Hint to Discard
In this example, all 1s have been played already. Both the Y3 and the G4 need to be saved.

Player 1: G1, R1, B4, Y3, G4
</code>
If Player 1 is given a 4-clue, the G4 will be saved, but the Y3 will be the new CHOP card. One option to save both Y3, and G4 is to give Player 1, a 1-clue. This would make the R1 the new CHOP card, and the G1 will be the next CHOP card.

=== Double Save ===

This is an alternative solution if you are low on clue-tokens, or don't have enough players to execute multiple saves in a row.

<code>
Example Double Save
In this example, W1 has not been played yet. Both the Y3 and the G4 need to be saved.

Player 1: G1, R1, B4, Y3, G4
</code>
This situation is similar as the Hint to Discard. However, in this situation a 1-clue will be interpreted as PLAY G1 (which isn't playable). To save both Y3 and G4, a blue-clue can be given to Player 1. This will cause him to BOMB on B4 (which isn't playable). But this tells him that all the cards RIGHT of the B4 needed to be saved. Note that this is a desperate measure, because it costs 2 clue-tokens (1 for the blue-clue and 1 for the BOMB card that should have been discarded) for 2 saves, but gives you no information about the saved cards.

----

'''2P GAMES''' 
With 2 players, you are limited in your options. Therefore the gameplay is different from 3+P games.

----

'''3+P GAMES''' 
=== Prompt ===
A prompt can clarify (an) already marked card(s) to be played as well as mark the next card to play.

<code>
Example Prompt

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y1, G0, B2, W0
Player 2: ??, ??, ??, ?2, ?5
Player 3: Y3, G5, R4, B3, W1 Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 give a yellow-clue to Player 3, marking Y3 as PLAY. Player 2 sees that the Y3 is ALMOST playable. This means that Player 2 has the LOGICAL in-between step: Player 2 has to play Y2. In this case, the Y2 is not on the DRAW card. The logical place for that card is the already marked 2. So Player 2 can assume that his card between the CHOP and the 5 is the Y2.

=== Finesse ===
This advanced move, can get you 2 cards into play, with only 1 clue-token. You do this, by marking an ALMOST playable card as playable. Someone else will have to play the LOGICAL in-between step, to make the card genuinely playable.

<code>
Example Finesse (#1)

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0
Player 2: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?5
Player 3: G5, B2, R4, B3, W1 Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 gives a blue-clue to Player 3, marking B2 as PLAY, and B3 as SAVE. Player 2 sees that the B2 is ALMOST playable. This means that Player 2 has the LOGICAL inbetween step: Player 2 has to play B1. The only logical place for that card is at the '''LEFT-MOST POSITION''' so Player 2 can assume that the '''DRAW''' card is the playable B1. If it was somewhere else in your hand, the card would have been clued earlier. '''Note: for the in-between player, a prompt always has priority over a finesse; if a player has a marked card that can be the in-between card, they should play it.'''

<code>
Example Finesse (#2)

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?? Played: R0, Y1, G2, B0, W1
Player 2: Y2, R1, R1, G5, W5
Player 3: XX, XX, R2, XX, XX Discarded: G4, R3
</code>

Player 1 gives a 5-clue to Player 2, saving W5 and G5 from being discarded. Player 2 sees nothing of interest in the hand of Player 3, so discards his CHOP (R1) and draws R4. Player 3 gives a setup for Player 1 by marking Y2 with a yellow-clue. The game now looks like this:
<code>
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?? Played: R0, Y1, G2, B0, W1
Player 2: R4,*Y2, R1, G5*,W5*
Player 3: XX, XX, R2, XX, XX Discarded: G4, R3, R1
</code>

Player 1 can't give a red-clue to Player 2, because this would cause Player 2 to bomb with r4. Instead, Player 1 now gives a red-clue to Player 3, marking R2 as PLAY. Player 2 sees that the R2 is ALMOST playable. This means that Player 2 has the LOGICAL inbetween step: Player 2 has to play R1. Player 2 knows that R2 can only be at the DRAW position, or at the middle position. Since Player 1 deliberately let Player 2 discard a playable 1 the round before, Player 2 concludes that she was already holding a second R1 at the time. Therefore, the LOGICAL place for the R1 to be, is at the middle position; NOT the DRAW position.

=== Bluff ===
This works the same as finesse. Only this time, the LOGICAL inbetween step, is a different playable card, so the player is tricked. It is slightly less strong that finesse, because it gives 1 play + 1 save for 1 clue-token.

<code>
Example Bluff

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0
Player 2: W1, B2, R4, B3, G5
Player 3: ??, ??, ??, ??, R? Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 gives a red-clue to Player 3, marking it as PLAY. Player 2 sees that the R2 is ALMOST playable, so applies finesse logic and plays his DRAW card. Much to Player 2's surprise, he has not played R1, but W1 (which was also playable). Because Player 3 saw Player 2 playing his DRAW, which was a different colour than the clue he received, Player 3 knows it was a bluffed finesse situation. He concludes that his red card is R2, and saves it for later.

=== Reverse ===
This works the same as finesse. Only this time, the LOGICAL inbetween step, is a different players hand. This also gets 2 plays for 1 clue-token, but takes longer than a normal finesse.

<code>
Example Reverse

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0
Player 2: ??, ??, W?, ??, ??
Player 3: W1, B2, R4, B3, G5 Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 gives a white-clue to Player 2, marking it as PLAY. However, Player 2 sees that the DRAW card of Player 3 is a playable card of the same colour. Therefore, Player 2 assumes that it is (reversed) finesse, and that his white is ALMOST playable. Player 2 decides to discard his CHOP. Player 3 recognises the (reversed) finesse play, and plays his DRAW card to play the W1.

''Having the optimal player draw the last card (endgame)''

At the end of the game, the person who draws the last card (which happens either by playing or discarding) triggers the end of the game. After the last card is drawn, each player receives exactly one more turn. Sometimes near the end of the game you will want a specific player to play or discard in order to get the last turn. Giving an unusable clue can prevent a player from drawing the last card and begin the last round.

<code>
Table:
 '''1 card remaining in deck - Your turn'''
 R Y G B W M
 5 5 3 4 5 5

XX|XX|5b - me

??|??|3? - you

1y|4g|5g - 3rd player
</code>

In this situation, assume everyone knows where the remaining playable cards are. Instead of discarding in this situation, you want the 3rd player be the one to play and draw the last card. Give any clue to prevent triggering the endgame so that 3rd player can play 4g triggering the endgame and then in their last turn play the 5g.

== Strategies for 2-Player games ==
'''Strategy #1'''
Pro's: Easy to execute
Con's: Double discard possible for 4s. Easy to get the hands locked.

''Guidelines'' 
1. Number-clue means “save all the cards that were marked by this clue”. Try to give save-clues as late as possible.

2. Non-unique 2s and 3s must be saved as much as possible. (Try to avoid double saves if possible.) Uniques should always be saved.

3. Colour-clues mean “play the newest card that was marked by this clue”. Other cards that are marked by the clue may be discarded when not previously marked by a number-clue.

4. If more than 5 clue-tokens are available, discarding unknown cards should be avoided, but known useless cards may be discarded freely.

5. If there are less than 2 clue-tokens available, colour-clues may be given only
a. If it leads to two or more plays in a row.
b. If the playable card is on CHOP.

6. A colour-clue may re-mark a card that’s already marked by a number if:
a. It also marks a previously unmarked card that is playable. (Either immediately, or immediately after playing the card that was marked with a number.)
b. As a stall-clue (see 7).

7. When more than 60% of the hand-slots are filled with saved cards, that player should try to avoid discarding two turns in a row (including the turn after the save-clue that leads to this state).

8. If a clue is given while avoiding discarding twice in a row: guideline 4 no longer applies; also stall clues may be given:
a. A colour-clue that re-marks a saved card, without marking an unmarked card. For example to indicate an accidental double save, or to clarify a playable card.
b. An empty-clue: a clue that marks none of the cards. This can be used to convey information on multiple playable cards.
c. A 5-clue. If 5a and 5b are not possible, a re-clue on the 5s is allowed.

9. Nearing the end of the game, when the number of saved cards in all the hands + the number of cards in the deck is equal to the number of card that need to be played to get the maximum (possible) score, discarding should be avoided as much as possible - so stall clues may be given.

Tips hanabi

2018-02-25T17:30:30Z

Gamersktrashcan: /* Strategies for 2-Player games */

This guide is for strategy tips: How to interpret clues, how to give clues, how to decide to play, discard or clue. Click [http://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/Gamehelphanabi here] for the introduction to the game.

== General ==
On BGA, there is no 1-strategy-to-be-played. However, if people start playing different strategies in 1 game, the game is doomed to fail. That is why communication in advance is very important, and why most hanabi-players get a lot of red thumbs. (Different strategy is interpreted as ruining the game.)

The strategies explained in this guide all have 1 goal in mind: to get the highest possible score, in the most amount of games. There are people who find score less important, and want to challenge themselves logically, or "just want to have fun". Again, communication in advance of the game is key.

Imagine this 'ideal' game. You play with 3 players and reach the maximum score of 25 points (5-colour game). At the end, there will be (at least) 12 cards left in the hands of the players, (at least) 1 clue token available and 25 cards will have been played. This means, that from the 50 cards of the deck, (50 - 25 - 12 =) 13 cards have been discarded and converted into clue tokens. You get 8 clue tokens at the start, and you will have gotten a 5 clue tokens from playing the 5s. This means that in the entire game, there were 13 (discards) + 8 (start) + 5 (completing a colour) - 1 (token left at the end) = 25 clue tokens available for playing.

On average, this means 1 clue token per 1 playable card. No matter what variant you play, you will end up with roughly this number. (Worst: 5-player game, with players that have 4 cards in their hands, playing 5 colours. This gives 22 tokens for 25 cards = 0.88 clue token per card. Best: 2-player game, with players that have 6 cards in their hands, playing 6 colours. This gives 35 tokens for 30 cards = 1.17 token per card.)

All strategies below are based on an optimisation of economical use of the clue-tokens.

== Basics ==

The basic game, plays with 50 cards: 10 for each colour. If you want to get the maximum score of 25 points, you need to play 25 cards. Some of the cards are left in the players hands at the end of the game. Depending on the number of players, this will be 8, 12, 12, or 15 (for 2p, 3p, 4p, and 5p respectively). This means in the entire game, there are 17, 13, or 10 cards that can be discarded for clues. You also get 8 clue tokens at the start, making the total number of clues in the entire game 25, 21, or 18. This gives the logical conclusion that you can not clue the colour AND number for every card in your hand, because there are simply not enough clues.

It is therefore paramount, that only useful cards are clued. If you mark a card that you know will not be played, it will cost another clue (-1) to make your team mate discard that card to gain a clue (+1), which is a net result of 0. If the card is not marked, your team mate will discard it eventually to gain a clue (+1), which is a net result of +1.

This leads to '''Basic Rule #1''' (cluing).

Every card that is marked, is either
a) (a) useful card(s) to be saved (interpret it as PLAY LATER), or
b) a useful card to be played (interpret it as PLAY NOW).
Therefore: '''NEVER mark useless cards'''

Most hanabi-players on BGA play by this main rule. So when a clue is given, ask yourself "Is this clue to save something"? If not, it is to get played.
Saving cards is important because there are only 2 cards of value 2, 3, and 4 in each suit, and only 1 card of value 5. To not get stuck on that colour it is urgent to keep the last copy of a card safe (prevent from discarding it).

The game interface puts every new card you draw, on the left-hand side of your hand. This means, the left-most card is the newest card, which makes your right-most card automatically the oldest. If a card has been in your hand for a long time, and you have not been given a clue that marks it, it is logical that it is a useless card and safe to discard.

Hence, '''Basic Rule #2''' (discarding).
'''Discard first what you know is useless (like a clued 1 when all 1s are already played). After that: discard your oldest (right-most) unclued card.'''

Note, that this rule is already a bit tricky. At the start of the game, every card can be considered equally old. This is where personal preference of players starts to matter.

Another result from the newest --> oldest order, is the interpretation of multiple marked cards. When you get a clue that marks multiple cards, and you can identify it is in fact a clue for play (see Basic Rule 1), you should play the newest (left-most) card. If an older card was "the playable card", it would probably be clued earlier. The logical conclusion must be, that the newest card, was the card you all have been waiting for, and you happened to draw it.

'''Basic Rule #3''' (playing).
'''Play the newer (left-most) clued card'''

So most people on BGA expect you to ONLY play the clued card on the left. The rest of the cards are just to be kept on your hand. Beware that there are different approaches and not all players play by this convention.

== Basic Example ==

Imagine the following starting situation:
(oldest ... newest)
Player 1: W1, Y1, B2, Y2, B2
Player 2: G1, G1, W3, Y2, B1
Player 3: B1, R4, W4, R3, G3

P1 can clue 1s to P2. But that will mark both G1's, so it's not the best option. Better is for P1 to clue P3 1s, or blue. (If BLUE-clue is given, then P3 will not worry about the B1 in P2's hand that is about to be discarded. Both 1-clue or BLUE-clue only mark 1 card, so give equal information about the other cards in P3's hand.)

P2 will clue 1s to P1. He knows that P3 prefers to play his 1. And P2 is the only person who can see that the 1s in both P1's hand, and P3's hand are different.

Everyone will have to wait for B2 to be discarded, before the second B2 can be clued. Everyone will also have to wait for G1 to be discarded, before the second G1 can be clued. Alternatively, when R1 is drawn and clued, then both G1's may be clued, since all 1's will be played and all cards marked 1 can be safely discarded.

So, the first four moves are:

1. P1 clues BLUE to P3 (7 clue-tokens).

2. P2 clues 1 to P1 (6 clue-tokens).

3. P3 plays B1 and draws R1.

4. P1 plays W1 and draws G4.

The game now looks like this, with P2 to move:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: G4, Y(1), B2, Y2, B2 Played: R0, Y0, G0, B1, W1
Player 2: G1, G1, W3, Y2, B1
Player 3: R1, R4, W4, R3, G3 Discarded: -

5. P2 clues RED to P3.

There are two possible continuations from here.
'''Option 1'''

6. P3 plays R1 and draws Y5.

7. P1 plays Y1 and draws Y3.

8. P2 discards B1 and draws G2 (7 clues).

9. P3 clues 1 to P2 (6 clues).

10. P1 discards B2 and draws R4 (7 clues).

11. P2 plays G1 and draws B5.

12. P3 clues 2 to P2 (6 clues).

And the game will look like this, with P1 to move:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: R4, Y3, G4, B(2), Y(2) Played: R1, Y1, G1, B1, W1
Player 2: G2, G(1), G(1), W3, Y2
Player 3: Y5, (R)4, W4, (R)3, G3 Discarded: B1, B2

'''Option 2'''

6. P3 clues 1 to P2 (5 clues). This move delays him playing the R1, but will make P2 more confident in discarding since he knows all the useless 1s.

7. P1 plays Y1 and draws Y5.

8. P2 plays G1 and draws Y3.

9. P3 plays R1 and draws G2.

10. P1 discards B2 and draws R4 (6 clues).

11. P2 discards B1 and draws B5 (7 clues).

12. P3 clues 2 to P2 (6 clues).

And the game will look like this, with P1 to move:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: R4, Y5, G4, B(2), Y(2) Played: R1, Y1, G1, B1, W1
Player 2: Y3, G(1), W3, Y2, B(1)
Player 3: G2, (R)4, W4, (R)3, G3 Discarded: B2, B1

Both options are equally valid. They end up in the same situation, with only the cards in hands being in a different order. Since the cards are picked at random, there is no valid reason to say one option is better than the other.

In both options, the 2-clue is given to P1, to mark both 2s as playable. Since all 1s are played, all 2s will be playable.
Note that, in this game, two 1s where marked with one clue (and played); and two 2s were marked with one clue (and will be played). As stated in the beginning, there are a total of 21 clues (in this variant) to mark 25 cards. At this point in the game, there are 16 clues left to mark 18 cards. With only two more "efficient" clues, the game can end with a perfect score.

== Advanced Moves ==

=== Intentional Discard ===

Sometimes players can have hands where all cards are important and unplayable. To tell a player that his hand blocked, discard your '''CHOP''' card, even when you know you have a playable card. This is often done when you are low on (or out of) clue-tokens. This is a risky move, since your team mate(s) might expect you to play, instead of discard. ('''always try to give him clue to give and play his hand as fast as it possible''')

=== Positional Discard ===

Sometimes at the end of the game you will have no useful cards to play. You want to give a clue, but you have no remaining clue-tokens. In this case, you can discard the card in the same position as the card that you want that player to play.

<code>
Example Positional Discard

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R5, Y5, G4, B5, W5
Player 2: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?3
Player 3: G5, B2, R4, B3, W1 Discarded: -
</code>
In this example, when there are no clue-tokens left, Player 2 can discard his DRAW, to indicate to Player 3 the position of the last remaining playable card.

=== Hint to Discard ===

You can hint to a player to discard specific cards in order to save multiple cards, to to save cards without causing a confusion about finesse/reverse.

<code>
Example Hint to Discard
In this example, all 1s have been played already. Both the Y3 and the G4 need to be saved.

Player 1: G1, R1, B4, Y3, G4
</code>
If Player 1 is given a 4-clue, the G4 will be saved, but the Y3 will be the new CHOP card. One option to save both Y3, and G4 is to give Player 1, a 1-clue. This would make the R1 the new CHOP card, and the G1 will be the next CHOP card.

=== Double Save ===

This is an alternative solution if you are low on clue-tokens, or don't have enough players to execute multiple saves in a row.

<code>
Example Double Save
In this example, W1 has not been played yet. Both the Y3 and the G4 need to be saved.

Player 1: G1, R1, B4, Y3, G4
</code>
This situation is similar as the Hint to Discard. However, in this situation a 1-clue will be interpreted as PLAY G1 (which isn't playable). To save both Y3 and G4, a blue-clue can be given to Player 1. This will cause him to BOMB on B4 (which isn't playable). But this tells him that all the cards RIGHT of the B4 needed to be saved. Note that this is a desperate measure, because it costs 2 clue-tokens (1 for the blue-clue and 1 for the BOMB card that should have been discarded) for 2 saves, but gives you no information about the saved cards.

----

'''2P GAMES''' 
With 2 players, you are limited in your options. Therefore the gameplay is different from 3+P games.

----

'''3+P GAMES''' 
=== Prompt ===
A prompt can clarify (an) already marked card(s) to be played as well as mark the next card to play.

<code>
Example Prompt

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y1, G0, B2, W0
Player 2: ??, ??, ??, ?2, ?5
Player 3: Y3, G5, R4, B3, W1 Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 give a yellow-clue to Player 3, marking Y3 as PLAY. Player 2 sees that the Y3 is ALMOST playable. This means that Player 2 has the LOGICAL in-between step: Player 2 has to play Y2. In this case, the Y2 is not on the DRAW card. The logical place for that card is the already marked 2. So Player 2 can assume that his card between the CHOP and the 5 is the Y2.

=== Finesse ===
This advanced move, can get you 2 cards into play, with only 1 clue-token. You do this, by marking an ALMOST playable card as playable. Someone else will have to play the LOGICAL in-between step, to make the card genuinely playable.

<code>
Example Finesse (#1)

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0
Player 2: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?5
Player 3: G5, B2, R4, B3, W1 Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 gives a blue-clue to Player 3, marking B2 as PLAY, and B3 as SAVE. Player 2 sees that the B2 is ALMOST playable. This means that Player 2 has the LOGICAL inbetween step: Player 2 has to play B1. The only logical place for that card is at the '''LEFT-MOST POSITION''' so Player 2 can assume that the '''DRAW''' card is the playable B1. If it was somewhere else in your hand, the card would have been clued earlier. '''Note: for the in-between player, a prompt always has priority over a finesse; if a player has a marked card that can be the in-between card, they should play it.'''

<code>
Example Finesse (#2)

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?? Played: R0, Y1, G2, B0, W1
Player 2: Y2, R1, R1, G5, W5
Player 3: XX, XX, R2, XX, XX Discarded: G4, R3
</code>

Player 1 gives a 5-clue to Player 2, saving W5 and G5 from being discarded. Player 2 sees nothing of interest in the hand of Player 3, so discards his CHOP (R1) and draws R4. Player 3 gives a setup for Player 1 by marking Y2 with a yellow-clue. The game now looks like this:
<code>
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?? Played: R0, Y1, G2, B0, W1
Player 2: R4,*Y2, R1, G5*,W5*
Player 3: XX, XX, R2, XX, XX Discarded: G4, R3, R1
</code>

Player 1 can't give a red-clue to Player 2, because this would cause Player 2 to bomb with r4. Instead, Player 1 now gives a red-clue to Player 3, marking R2 as PLAY. Player 2 sees that the R2 is ALMOST playable. This means that Player 2 has the LOGICAL inbetween step: Player 2 has to play R1. Player 2 knows that R2 can only be at the DRAW position, or at the middle position. Since Player 1 deliberately let Player 2 discard a playable 1 the round before, Player 2 concludes that she was already holding a second R1 at the time. Therefore, the LOGICAL place for the R1 to be, is at the middle position; NOT the DRAW position.

=== Bluff ===
This works the same as finesse. Only this time, the LOGICAL inbetween step, is a different playable card, so the player is tricked. It is slightly less strong that finesse, because it gives 1 play + 1 save for 1 clue-token.

<code>
Example Bluff

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0
Player 2: W1, B2, R4, B3, G5
Player 3: ??, ??, ??, ??, R? Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 gives a red-clue to Player 3, marking it as PLAY. Player 2 sees that the R2 is ALMOST playable, so applies finesse logic and plays his DRAW card. Much to Player 2's surprise, he has not played R1, but W1 (which was also playable). Because Player 3 saw Player 2 playing his DRAW, which was a different colour than the clue he received, Player 3 knows it was a bluffed finesse situation. He concludes that his red card is R2, and saves it for later.

=== Reverse ===
This works the same as finesse. Only this time, the LOGICAL inbetween step, is a different players hand. This also gets 2 plays for 1 clue-token, but takes longer than a normal finesse.

<code>
Example Reverse

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0
Player 2: ??, ??, W?, ??, ??
Player 3: W1, B2, R4, B3, G5 Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 gives a white-clue to Player 2, marking it as PLAY. However, Player 2 sees that the DRAW card of Player 3 is a playable card of the same colour. Therefore, Player 2 assumes that it is (reversed) finesse, and that his white is ALMOST playable. Player 2 decides to discard his CHOP. Player 3 recognises the (reversed) finesse play, and plays his DRAW card to play the W1.

''Having the optimal player draw the last card (endgame)''

At the end of the game, the person who draws the last card (which happens either by playing or discarding) triggers the end of the game. After the last card is drawn, each player receives exactly one more turn. Sometimes near the end of the game you will want a specific player to play or discard in order to get the last turn. Giving an unusable clue can prevent a player from drawing the last card and begin the last round.

<code>
Table:
 '''1 card remaining in deck - Your turn'''
 R Y G B W M
 5 5 3 4 5 5

XX|XX|5b - me

??|??|3? - you

1y|4g|5g - 3rd player
</code>

In this situation, assume everyone knows where the remaining playable cards are. Instead of discarding in this situation, you want the 3rd player be the one to play and draw the last card. Give any clue to prevent triggering the endgame so that 3rd player can play 4g triggering the endgame and then in their last turn play the 5g.

== Strategies for 2-Player games ==
'''Strategy #1'''
Pro's: Easy to execute
Con's: Double discard possible for 4s. Easy to get the hands locked.

''Guidelines'' 
1. Number-clue means “save all the cards that were marked by this clue”. Try to give save-clues as late as possible.

2. Non-unique 2s and 3s must be saved as much as possible. (Try to avoid double saves if possible.) Uniques should always be saved.

3. Colour-clues mean “play the newest card that was marked by this clue”. Other cards that are marked by the clue may be discarded when not previously marked by a number-clue.

4. If more than 5 clue-tokens are available, discarding unknown cards should be avoided, but known useless cards may be discarded freely.

5. If there are less than 2 clue-tokens available, colour-clues may be given only
a. If it leads to two or more plays in a row.
b. If the playable card is on CHOP.

6. A colour-clue may re-mark a card that’s already marked by a number if:
a. It also marks a previously unmarked card that is playable. (Either immediately, or immediately after playing the card that was marked with a number.)
b. As a stall-clue (see 7).

7. When more than 60% of the hand-slots are filled with saved cards, that player should try to avoid discarding two turns in a row (including the turn after the save-clue that leads to this state).

8. If a clue is given while avoiding discarding twice in a row: guideline 4 no longer applies; also stall clues may be given:
a. A colour-clue that re-marks a saved card, without marking an unmarked card. For example to indicate an accidental double save, or to clarify a playable card.
b. An empty-clue: a clue that marks none of the cards. This can be used to convey information on multiple playable cards.
c. A 5-clue. If 5a and 5b are not possible, a re-clue on the 5s is allowed.

9. Nearing the end of the game, when the number of saved cards in all the hands + the number of cards in the deck is equal to the number of card that need to be played to get the maximum (possible) score, discarding should be avoided as much as possible - so stall clues may be given.

Tips hanabi

2018-02-25T17:29:53Z

Gamersktrashcan:

This guide is for strategy tips: How to interpret clues, how to give clues, how to decide to play, discard or clue. Click [http://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/Gamehelphanabi here] for the introduction to the game.

== General ==
On BGA, there is no 1-strategy-to-be-played. However, if people start playing different strategies in 1 game, the game is doomed to fail. That is why communication in advance is very important, and why most hanabi-players get a lot of red thumbs. (Different strategy is interpreted as ruining the game.)

The strategies explained in this guide all have 1 goal in mind: to get the highest possible score, in the most amount of games. There are people who find score less important, and want to challenge themselves logically, or "just want to have fun". Again, communication in advance of the game is key.

Imagine this 'ideal' game. You play with 3 players and reach the maximum score of 25 points (5-colour game). At the end, there will be (at least) 12 cards left in the hands of the players, (at least) 1 clue token available and 25 cards will have been played. This means, that from the 50 cards of the deck, (50 - 25 - 12 =) 13 cards have been discarded and converted into clue tokens. You get 8 clue tokens at the start, and you will have gotten a 5 clue tokens from playing the 5s. This means that in the entire game, there were 13 (discards) + 8 (start) + 5 (completing a colour) - 1 (token left at the end) = 25 clue tokens available for playing.

On average, this means 1 clue token per 1 playable card. No matter what variant you play, you will end up with roughly this number. (Worst: 5-player game, with players that have 4 cards in their hands, playing 5 colours. This gives 22 tokens for 25 cards = 0.88 clue token per card. Best: 2-player game, with players that have 6 cards in their hands, playing 6 colours. This gives 35 tokens for 30 cards = 1.17 token per card.)

All strategies below are based on an optimisation of economical use of the clue-tokens.

== Basics ==

The basic game, plays with 50 cards: 10 for each colour. If you want to get the maximum score of 25 points, you need to play 25 cards. Some of the cards are left in the players hands at the end of the game. Depending on the number of players, this will be 8, 12, 12, or 15 (for 2p, 3p, 4p, and 5p respectively). This means in the entire game, there are 17, 13, or 10 cards that can be discarded for clues. You also get 8 clue tokens at the start, making the total number of clues in the entire game 25, 21, or 18. This gives the logical conclusion that you can not clue the colour AND number for every card in your hand, because there are simply not enough clues.

It is therefore paramount, that only useful cards are clued. If you mark a card that you know will not be played, it will cost another clue (-1) to make your team mate discard that card to gain a clue (+1), which is a net result of 0. If the card is not marked, your team mate will discard it eventually to gain a clue (+1), which is a net result of +1.

This leads to '''Basic Rule #1''' (cluing).

Every card that is marked, is either
a) (a) useful card(s) to be saved (interpret it as PLAY LATER), or
b) a useful card to be played (interpret it as PLAY NOW).
Therefore: '''NEVER mark useless cards'''

Most hanabi-players on BGA play by this main rule. So when a clue is given, ask yourself "Is this clue to save something"? If not, it is to get played.
Saving cards is important because there are only 2 cards of value 2, 3, and 4 in each suit, and only 1 card of value 5. To not get stuck on that colour it is urgent to keep the last copy of a card safe (prevent from discarding it).

The game interface puts every new card you draw, on the left-hand side of your hand. This means, the left-most card is the newest card, which makes your right-most card automatically the oldest. If a card has been in your hand for a long time, and you have not been given a clue that marks it, it is logical that it is a useless card and safe to discard.

Hence, '''Basic Rule #2''' (discarding).
'''Discard first what you know is useless (like a clued 1 when all 1s are already played). After that: discard your oldest (right-most) unclued card.'''

Note, that this rule is already a bit tricky. At the start of the game, every card can be considered equally old. This is where personal preference of players starts to matter.

Another result from the newest --> oldest order, is the interpretation of multiple marked cards. When you get a clue that marks multiple cards, and you can identify it is in fact a clue for play (see Basic Rule 1), you should play the newest (left-most) card. If an older card was "the playable card", it would probably be clued earlier. The logical conclusion must be, that the newest card, was the card you all have been waiting for, and you happened to draw it.

'''Basic Rule #3''' (playing).
'''Play the newer (left-most) clued card'''

So most people on BGA expect you to ONLY play the clued card on the left. The rest of the cards are just to be kept on your hand. Beware that there are different approaches and not all players play by this convention.

== Basic Example ==

Imagine the following starting situation:
(oldest ... newest)
Player 1: W1, Y1, B2, Y2, B2
Player 2: G1, G1, W3, Y2, B1
Player 3: B1, R4, W4, R3, G3

P1 can clue 1s to P2. But that will mark both G1's, so it's not the best option. Better is for P1 to clue P3 1s, or blue. (If BLUE-clue is given, then P3 will not worry about the B1 in P2's hand that is about to be discarded. Both 1-clue or BLUE-clue only mark 1 card, so give equal information about the other cards in P3's hand.)

P2 will clue 1s to P1. He knows that P3 prefers to play his 1. And P2 is the only person who can see that the 1s in both P1's hand, and P3's hand are different.

Everyone will have to wait for B2 to be discarded, before the second B2 can be clued. Everyone will also have to wait for G1 to be discarded, before the second G1 can be clued. Alternatively, when R1 is drawn and clued, then both G1's may be clued, since all 1's will be played and all cards marked 1 can be safely discarded.

So, the first four moves are:

1. P1 clues BLUE to P3 (7 clue-tokens).

2. P2 clues 1 to P1 (6 clue-tokens).

3. P3 plays B1 and draws R1.

4. P1 plays W1 and draws G4.

The game now looks like this, with P2 to move:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: G4, Y(1), B2, Y2, B2 Played: R0, Y0, G0, B1, W1
Player 2: G1, G1, W3, Y2, B1
Player 3: R1, R4, W4, R3, G3 Discarded: -

5. P2 clues RED to P3.

There are two possible continuations from here.
'''Option 1'''

6. P3 plays R1 and draws Y5.

7. P1 plays Y1 and draws Y3.

8. P2 discards B1 and draws G2 (7 clues).

9. P3 clues 1 to P2 (6 clues).

10. P1 discards B2 and draws R4 (7 clues).

11. P2 plays G1 and draws B5.

12. P3 clues 2 to P2 (6 clues).

And the game will look like this, with P1 to move:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: R4, Y3, G4, B(2), Y(2) Played: R1, Y1, G1, B1, W1
Player 2: G2, G(1), G(1), W3, Y2
Player 3: Y5, (R)4, W4, (R)3, G3 Discarded: B1, B2

'''Option 2'''

6. P3 clues 1 to P2 (5 clues). This move delays him playing the R1, but will make P2 more confident in discarding since he knows all the useless 1s.

7. P1 plays Y1 and draws Y5.

8. P2 plays G1 and draws Y3.

9. P3 plays R1 and draws G2.

10. P1 discards B2 and draws R4 (6 clues).

11. P2 discards B1 and draws B5 (7 clues).

12. P3 clues 2 to P2 (6 clues).

And the game will look like this, with P1 to move:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: R4, Y5, G4, B(2), Y(2) Played: R1, Y1, G1, B1, W1
Player 2: Y3, G(1), W3, Y2, B(1)
Player 3: G2, (R)4, W4, (R)3, G3 Discarded: B2, B1

Both options are equally valid. They end up in the same situation, with only the cards in hands being in a different order. Since the cards are picked at random, there is no valid reason to say one option is better than the other.

In both options, the 2-clue is given to P1, to mark both 2s as playable. Since all 1s are played, all 2s will be playable.
Note that, in this game, two 1s where marked with one clue (and played); and two 2s were marked with one clue (and will be played). As stated in the beginning, there are a total of 21 clues (in this variant) to mark 25 cards. At this point in the game, there are 16 clues left to mark 18 cards. With only two more "efficient" clues, the game can end with a perfect score.

== Advanced Moves ==

=== Intentional Discard ===

Sometimes players can have hands where all cards are important and unplayable. To tell a player that his hand blocked, discard your '''CHOP''' card, even when you know you have a playable card. This is often done when you are low on (or out of) clue-tokens. This is a risky move, since your team mate(s) might expect you to play, instead of discard. ('''always try to give him clue to give and play his hand as fast as it possible''')

=== Positional Discard ===

Sometimes at the end of the game you will have no useful cards to play. You want to give a clue, but you have no remaining clue-tokens. In this case, you can discard the card in the same position as the card that you want that player to play.

<code>
Example Positional Discard

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R5, Y5, G4, B5, W5
Player 2: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?3
Player 3: G5, B2, R4, B3, W1 Discarded: -
</code>
In this example, when there are no clue-tokens left, Player 2 can discard his DRAW, to indicate to Player 3 the position of the last remaining playable card.

=== Hint to Discard ===

You can hint to a player to discard specific cards in order to save multiple cards, to to save cards without causing a confusion about finesse/reverse.

<code>
Example Hint to Discard
In this example, all 1s have been played already. Both the Y3 and the G4 need to be saved.

Player 1: G1, R1, B4, Y3, G4
</code>
If Player 1 is given a 4-clue, the G4 will be saved, but the Y3 will be the new CHOP card. One option to save both Y3, and G4 is to give Player 1, a 1-clue. This would make the R1 the new CHOP card, and the G1 will be the next CHOP card.

=== Double Save ===

This is an alternative solution if you are low on clue-tokens, or don't have enough players to execute multiple saves in a row.

<code>
Example Double Save
In this example, W1 has not been played yet. Both the Y3 and the G4 need to be saved.

Player 1: G1, R1, B4, Y3, G4
</code>
This situation is similar as the Hint to Discard. However, in this situation a 1-clue will be interpreted as PLAY G1 (which isn't playable). To save both Y3 and G4, a blue-clue can be given to Player 1. This will cause him to BOMB on B4 (which isn't playable). But this tells him that all the cards RIGHT of the B4 needed to be saved. Note that this is a desperate measure, because it costs 2 clue-tokens (1 for the blue-clue and 1 for the BOMB card that should have been discarded) for 2 saves, but gives you no information about the saved cards.

----

'''2P GAMES''' 
With 2 players, you are limited in your options. Therefore the gameplay is different from 3+P games.

----

'''3+P GAMES''' 
=== Prompt ===
A prompt can clarify (an) already marked card(s) to be played as well as mark the next card to play.

<code>
Example Prompt

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y1, G0, B2, W0
Player 2: ??, ??, ??, ?2, ?5
Player 3: Y3, G5, R4, B3, W1 Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 give a yellow-clue to Player 3, marking Y3 as PLAY. Player 2 sees that the Y3 is ALMOST playable. This means that Player 2 has the LOGICAL in-between step: Player 2 has to play Y2. In this case, the Y2 is not on the DRAW card. The logical place for that card is the already marked 2. So Player 2 can assume that his card between the CHOP and the 5 is the Y2.

=== Finesse ===
This advanced move, can get you 2 cards into play, with only 1 clue-token. You do this, by marking an ALMOST playable card as playable. Someone else will have to play the LOGICAL in-between step, to make the card genuinely playable.

<code>
Example Finesse (#1)

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0
Player 2: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?5
Player 3: G5, B2, R4, B3, W1 Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 gives a blue-clue to Player 3, marking B2 as PLAY, and B3 as SAVE. Player 2 sees that the B2 is ALMOST playable. This means that Player 2 has the LOGICAL inbetween step: Player 2 has to play B1. The only logical place for that card is at the '''LEFT-MOST POSITION''' so Player 2 can assume that the '''DRAW''' card is the playable B1. If it was somewhere else in your hand, the card would have been clued earlier. '''Note: for the in-between player, a prompt always has priority over a finesse; if a player has a marked card that can be the in-between card, they should play it.'''

<code>
Example Finesse (#2)

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?? Played: R0, Y1, G2, B0, W1
Player 2: Y2, R1, R1, G5, W5
Player 3: XX, XX, R2, XX, XX Discarded: G4, R3
</code>

Player 1 gives a 5-clue to Player 2, saving W5 and G5 from being discarded. Player 2 sees nothing of interest in the hand of Player 3, so discards his CHOP (R1) and draws R4. Player 3 gives a setup for Player 1 by marking Y2 with a yellow-clue. The game now looks like this:
<code>
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?? Played: R0, Y1, G2, B0, W1
Player 2: R4,*Y2, R1, G5*,W5*
Player 3: XX, XX, R2, XX, XX Discarded: G4, R3, R1
</code>

Player 1 can't give a red-clue to Player 2, because this would cause Player 2 to bomb with r4. Instead, Player 1 now gives a red-clue to Player 3, marking R2 as PLAY. Player 2 sees that the R2 is ALMOST playable. This means that Player 2 has the LOGICAL inbetween step: Player 2 has to play R1. Player 2 knows that R2 can only be at the DRAW position, or at the middle position. Since Player 1 deliberately let Player 2 discard a playable 1 the round before, Player 2 concludes that she was already holding a second R1 at the time. Therefore, the LOGICAL place for the R1 to be, is at the middle position; NOT the DRAW position.

=== Bluff ===
This works the same as finesse. Only this time, the LOGICAL inbetween step, is a different playable card, so the player is tricked. It is slightly less strong that finesse, because it gives 1 play + 1 save for 1 clue-token.

<code>
Example Bluff

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0
Player 2: W1, B2, R4, B3, G5
Player 3: ??, ??, ??, ??, R? Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 gives a red-clue to Player 3, marking it as PLAY. Player 2 sees that the R2 is ALMOST playable, so applies finesse logic and plays his DRAW card. Much to Player 2's surprise, he has not played R1, but W1 (which was also playable). Because Player 3 saw Player 2 playing his DRAW, which was a different colour than the clue he received, Player 3 knows it was a bluffed finesse situation. He concludes that his red card is R2, and saves it for later.

=== Reverse ===
This works the same as finesse. Only this time, the LOGICAL inbetween step, is a different players hand. This also gets 2 plays for 1 clue-token, but takes longer than a normal finesse.

<code>
Example Reverse

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0
Player 2: ??, ??, W?, ??, ??
Player 3: W1, B2, R4, B3, G5 Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 gives a white-clue to Player 2, marking it as PLAY. However, Player 2 sees that the DRAW card of Player 3 is a playable card of the same colour. Therefore, Player 2 assumes that it is (reversed) finesse, and that his white is ALMOST playable. Player 2 decides to discard his CHOP. Player 3 recognises the (reversed) finesse play, and plays his DRAW card to play the W1.

''Having the optimal player draw the last card (endgame)''

At the end of the game, the person who draws the last card (which happens either by playing or discarding) triggers the end of the game. After the last card is drawn, each player receives exactly one more turn. Sometimes near the end of the game you will want a specific player to play or discard in order to get the last turn. Giving an unusable clue can prevent a player from drawing the last card and begin the last round.

<code>
Table:
 '''1 card remaining in deck - Your turn'''
 R Y G B W M
 5 5 3 4 5 5

XX|XX|5b - me

??|??|3? - you

1y|4g|5g - 3rd player
</code>

In this situation, assume everyone knows where the remaining playable cards are. Instead of discarding in this situation, you want the 3rd player be the one to play and draw the last card. Give any clue to prevent triggering the endgame so that 3rd player can play 4g triggering the endgame and then in their last turn play the 5g.

== Strategies for 2-Player games ==
'''Strategy #1'''
Pro's: Easy to execute
Con's: Double discard possible for 4s. Easy to get the hands locked.

''Guidelines''
1. Number-clue means “save all the cards that were marked by this clue”. Try to give save-clues as late as possible.

2. Non-unique 2s and 3s must be saved as much as possible. (Try to avoid double saves if possible.) Uniques should always be saved.

3. Colour-clues mean “play the newest card that was marked by this clue”. Other cards that are marked by the clue may be discarded when not previously marked by a number-clue.

4. If more than 5 clue-tokens are available, discarding unknown cards should be avoided, but known useless cards may be discarded freely.

5. If there are less than 2 clue-tokens available, colour-clues may be given only
a. If it leads to two or more plays in a row.
b. If the playable card is on CHOP.

6. A colour-clue may re-mark a card that’s already marked by a number if:
a. It also marks a previously unmarked card that is playable. (Either immediately, or immediately after playing the card that was marked with a number.)
b. As a stall-clue (see 7).

7. When more than 60% of the hand-slots are filled with saved cards, that player should try to avoid discarding two turns in a row (including the turn after the save-clue that leads to this state).

8. If a clue is given while avoiding discarding twice in a row: guideline 4 no longer applies; also stall clues may be given:
a. A colour-clue that re-marks a saved card, without marking an unmarked card. For example to indicate an accidental double save, or to clarify a playable card.
b. An empty-clue: a clue that marks none of the cards. This can be used to convey information on multiple playable cards.
c. A 5-clue. If 5a and 5b are not possible, a re-clue on the 5s is allowed.

9. Nearing the end of the game, when the number of saved cards in all the hands + the number of cards in the deck is equal to the number of card that need to be played to get the maximum (possible) score, discarding should be avoided as much as possible - so stall clues may be given.

Gamehelphanabi

2018-02-25T17:17:54Z

Gamersktrashcan: /* Lingo */

Tips hanabi

2018-02-25T17:10:00Z

Gamersktrashcan: /* Basic Example */

Tips hanabi

2017-11-18T11:37:42Z

Gamersktrashcan: /* General */

This guide is for strategy tips: How to interpret clues, how to give clues, how to decide to play, discard or clue. Click [http://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/Gamehelphanabi here] for the introduction to the game.

== General ==
On BGA, there is no 1-strategy-to-be-played. However, if people start playing different strategies in 1 game, the game is doomed to fail. That is why communication in advance is very important, and why most hanabi-players get a lot of red thumbs. (Different strategy is interpreted as ruining the game.)

The strategies explained in this guide all have 1 goal in mind: to get the highest possible score, in the most amount of games. There are people who find score less important, and want to challenge themselves logically, or "just want to have fun". Again, communication in advance of the game is key.

Imagine this 'ideal' game. You play with 3 players and reach the maximum score of 25 points (5-colour game). At the end, there will be (at least) 12 cards left in the hands of the players, (at least) 1 clue token available and 25 cards will have been played. This means, that from the 50 cards of the deck, (50 - 25 - 12 =) 13 cards have been discarded and converted into clue tokens. You get 8 clue tokens at the start, and you will have gotten a 5 clue tokens from playing the 5s. This means that in the entire game, there were 13 (discards) + 8 (start) + 5 (completing a colour) - 1 (token left at the end) = 25 clue tokens available for playing.

On average, this means 1 clue token per 1 playable card. No matter what variant you play, you will end up with roughly this number. (Worst: 5-player game, with players that have 4 cards in their hands, playing 5 colours. This gives 22 tokens for 25 cards = 0.88 clue token per card. Best: 2-player game, with players that have 6 cards in their hands, playing 6 colours. This gives 35 tokens for 30 cards = 1.17 token per card.)

All strategies below are based on an optimisation of economical use of the clue-tokens.

== Basics ==

The basic game, plays with 50 cards: 10 for each colour. If you want to get the maximum score of 25 points, you need to play 25 cards. Some of the cards are left in the players hands at the end of the game. Depending on the number of players, this will be 8, 12, 12, or 15 (for 2p, 3p, 4p, and 5p respectively). This means in the entire game, there are 17, 13, or 10 cards that can be discarded for clues. You also get 8 clue tokens at the start, making the total number of clues in the entire game 25, 21, or 18. This gives the logical conclusion that you can not clue the colour AND number for every card in your hand, because there are simply not enough clues.

It is therefore paramount, that only useful cards are clued. If you mark a card that you know will not be played, it will cost another clue (-1) to make your team mate discard that card to gain a clue (+1), which is a net result of 0. If the card is not marked, your team mate will discard it eventually to gain a clue (+1), which is a net result of +1.

This leads to '''Basic Rule #1''' (cluing).

Every card that is marked, is either
a) (a) useful card(s) to be saved (interpret it as PLAY LATER), or
b) a useful card to be played (interpret it as PLAY NOW).
Therefore: '''NEVER mark useless cards'''

Most hanabi-players on BGA play by this main rule. So when a clue is given, ask yourself "Is this clue to save something"? If not, it is to get played.
Saving cards is important because there are only 2 cards of value 2, 3, and 4 in each suit, and only 1 card of value 5. To not get stuck on that colour it is urgent to keep the last copy of a card safe (prevent from discarding it).

The game interface puts every new card you draw, on the left-hand side of your hand. This means, the left-most card is the newest card, which makes your right-most card automatically the oldest. If a card has been in your hand for a long time, and you have not been given a clue that marks it, it is logical that it is a useless card and safe to discard.

Hence, '''Basic Rule #2''' (discarding).
'''Discard first what you know is useless (like a clued 1 when all 1s are already played). After that: discard your oldest (right-most) unclued card.'''

Note, that this rule is already a bit tricky. At the start of the game, every card can be considered equally old. This is where personal preference of players starts to matter.

Another result from the newest --> oldest order, is the interpretation of multiple marked cards. When you get a clue that marks multiple cards, and you can identify it is in fact a clue for play (see Basic Rule 1), you should play the newest (left-most) card. If an older card was "the playable card", it would probably be clued earlier. The logical conclusion must be, that the newest card, was the card you all have been waiting for, and you happened to draw it.

'''Basic Rule #3''' (playing).
'''Play the newer (left-most) clued card'''

So most people on BGA expect you to ONLY play the clued card on the left. The rest of the cards are just to be kept on your hand. Beware that there are different approaches and not all players play by this convention.

== Basic Example ==

Imagine the following starting situation:
(oldest ... newest)
Player 1: W1, Y1, B2, Y2, B2
Player 2: G1, G1, W3, Y2, B1
Player 3: B1, R4, W4, R3, G3

P1 can clue 1s to P2. But that will mark both G1's, so it's not the best option. Better is for P1 to clue P3 1s, or blue. (If BLUE-clue is given, then P3 will not worry about the B1 in P2's hand that is about to be discarded. Both 1-clue or BLUE-clue only mark 1 card, so give equal information about the other cards in P3's hand.)

P2 will clue 1s to P1. He knows that P3 prefers to play his 1. And P2 is the only person who can see that the 1s in both P1's hand, and P3's hand are different.

Everyone will have to wait for B2 to be discarded, before the second B2 can be clued. Everyone will also have to wait for G1 to be discarded, before the second G1 can be clued. Alternatively, when R1 is drawn and clued, then both G1's may be clued, since all 1's will be played and all cards marked 1 can be safely discarded.

So, the first four moves are:

1. P1 clues BLUE to P3 (7 clues).

2. P2 clues 1 to P1 (6 clues).

3. P3 plays B1 and draws R1.

4. P1 plays W1 and draws G4.

The game now looks like this, with P2 to move:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: G4, Y(1), B2, Y2, B2 Played: R0, Y0, G0, B1, W1
Player 2: G1, G1, W3, Y2, B1
Player 3: R1, R4, W4, R3, G3 Discarded: -

5. P2 clues RED to P3.

There are two possible continuations from here.
'''Option 1'''

6. P3 plays R1 and draws Y5.

7. P1 plays Y1 and draws Y3.

8. P2 discards B1 and draws G2 (7 clues).

9. P3 clues 1 to P2 (6 clues).

10. P1 discards B2 and draws R4 (7 clues).

11. P2 plays G1 and draws B5.

12. P3 clues 2 to P2 (6 clues).

And the game will look like this, with P1 to move:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: R4, Y3, G4, B(2), Y(2) Played: R1, Y1, G1, B1, W1
Player 2: G2, G(1), G(1), W3, Y2
Player 3: Y5, (R)4, W4, (R)3, G3 Discarded: B1, B2

'''Option 2'''

6. P3 clues 1 to P2 (5 clues). This move delays him playing the R1, but will make P2 more confident in discarding since he knows all the useless 1s.

7. P1 plays Y1 and draws Y5.

8. P2 plays G1 and draws Y3.

9. P3 plays R1 and draws G2.

10. P1 discards B2 and draws R4 (6 clues).

11. P2 discards B1 and draws B5 (7 clues).

12. P3 clues 2 to P2 (6 clues).

And the game will look like this, with P1 to move:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: R4, Y5, G4, B(2), Y(2) Played: R1, Y1, G1, B1, W1
Player 2: Y3, G(1), W3, Y2, B(1)
Player 3: G2, (R)4, W4, (R)3, G3 Discarded: B2, B1

Both options are equally valid. They end up in the same situation, with only the cards in hands being in a different order. Since the cards are picked at random, there is no valid reason to say one option is better than the other.

In both options, the 2-clue is given to P1, to mark both 2s as playable. Since all 1s are played, all 2s will be playable.
Note that, in this game, two 1s where marked with one clue (and played); and two 2s were marked with one clue (and will be played). As stated in the beginning, there are a total of 21 clues (in this variant) to mark 25 cards. At this point in the game, there are 16 clues left to mark 18 cards. With only two more "efficient" clues, the game can end with a perfect score.

== Advanced Moves ==

=== Intentional Discard ===

Sometimes players can have hands where all cards are important and unplayable. To tell a player that his hand blocked, discard your '''CHOP''' card, even when you know you have a playable card. This is often done when you are low on (or out of) clue-tokens. This is a risky move, since your team mate(s) might expect you to play, instead of discard. ('''always try to give him clue to give and play his hand as fast as it possible''')

=== Positional Discard ===

Sometimes at the end of the game you will have no useful cards to play. You want to give a clue, but you have no remaining clue-tokens. In this case, you can discard the card in the same position as the card that you want that player to play.

<code>
Example Positional Discard

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R5, Y5, G4, B5, W5
Player 2: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?3
Player 3: G5, B2, R4, B3, W1 Discarded: -
</code>
In this example, when there are no clue-tokens left, Player 2 can discard his DRAW, to indicate to Player 3 the position of the last remaining playable card.

=== Hint to Discard ===

You can hint to a player to discard specific cards in order to save multiple cards, to to save cards without causing a confusion about finesse/reverse.

<code>
Example Hint to Discard
In this example, all 1s have been played already. Both the Y3 and the G4 need to be saved.

Player 1: G1, R1, B4, Y3, G4
</code>
If Player 1 is given a 4-clue, the G4 will be saved, but the Y3 will be the new CHOP card. One option to save both Y3, and G4 is to give Player 1, a 1-clue. This would make the R1 the new CHOP card, and the G1 will be the next CHOP card.

=== Double Save ===

This is an alternative solution if you are low on clue-tokens, or don't have enough players to execute multiple saves in a row.

<code>
Example Double Save
In this example, W1 has not been played yet. Both the Y3 and the G4 need to be saved.

Player 1: G1, R1, B4, Y3, G4
</code>
This situation is similar as the Hint to Discard. However, in this situation a 1-clue will be interpreted as PLAY G1 (which isn't playable). To save both Y3 and G4, a blue-clue can be given to Player 1. This will cause him to BOMB on B4 (which isn't playable). But this tells him that all the cards RIGHT of the B4 needed to be saved. Note that this is a desperate measure, because it costs 2 clue-tokens (1 for the blue-clue and 1 for the BOMB card that should have been discarded) for 2 saves, but gives you no information about the saved cards.

----

'''2P GAMES''' 
With 2 players, you are limited in your options. Therefore the gameplay is different from 3+P games.

----

'''3+P GAMES''' 
=== Prompt ===
A prompt can clarify (an) already marked card(s) to be played as well as mark the next card to play.

<code>
Example Prompt

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y1, G0, B2, W0
Player 2: ??, ??, ??, ?2, ?5
Player 3: Y3, G5, R4, B3, W1 Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 give a yellow-clue to Player 3, marking Y3 as PLAY. Player 2 sees that the Y3 is ALMOST playable. This means that Player 2 has the LOGICAL in-between step: Player 2 has to play Y2. In this case, the Y2 is not on the DRAW card. The logical place for that card is the already marked 2. So Player 2 can assume that his card between the CHOP and the 5 is the Y2.

=== Finesse ===
This advanced move, can get you 2 cards into play, with only 1 clue-token. You do this, by marking an ALMOST playable card as playable. Someone else will have to play the LOGICAL in-between step, to make the card genuinely playable.

<code>
Example Finesse (#1)

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0
Player 2: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?5
Player 3: G5, B2, R4, B3, W1 Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 gives a blue-clue to Player 3, marking B2 as PLAY, and B3 as SAVE. Player 2 sees that the B2 is ALMOST playable. This means that Player 2 has the LOGICAL inbetween step: Player 2 has to play B1. The only logical place for that card is at the '''LEFT-MOST POSITION''' so Player 2 can assume that the '''DRAW''' card is the playable B1. If it was somewhere else in your hand, the card would have been clued earlier. '''Note: for the in-between player, a prompt always has priority over a finesse; if a player has a marked card that can be the in-between card, they should play it.'''

<code>
Example Finesse (#2)

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?? Played: R0, Y1, G2, B0, W1
Player 2: Y2, R1, R1, G5, W5
Player 3: XX, XX, R2, XX, XX Discarded: G4, R3
</code>

Player 1 gives a 5-clue to Player 2, saving W5 and G5 from being discarded. Player 2 sees nothing of interest in the hand of Player 3, so discards his CHOP (R1) and draws R4. Player 3 gives a setup for Player 1 by marking Y2 with a yellow-clue. The game now looks like this:
<code>
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?? Played: R0, Y1, G2, B0, W1
Player 2: R4,*Y2, R1, G5*,W5*
Player 3: XX, XX, R2, XX, XX Discarded: G4, R3, R1
</code>

Player 1 can't give a red-clue to Player 2, because this would cause Player 2 to bomb with r4. Instead, Player 1 now gives a red-clue to Player 3, marking R2 as PLAY. Player 2 sees that the R2 is ALMOST playable. This means that Player 2 has the LOGICAL inbetween step: Player 2 has to play R1. Player 2 knows that R2 can only be at the DRAW position, or at the middle position. Since Player 1 deliberately let Player 2 discard a playable 1 the round before, Player 2 concludes that she was already holding a second R1 at the time. Therefore, the LOGICAL place for the R1 to be, is at the middle position; NOT the DRAW position.

=== Bluff ===
This works the same as finesse. Only this time, the LOGICAL inbetween step, is a different playable card, so the player is tricked. It is slightly less strong that finesse, because it gives 1 play + 1 save for 1 clue-token.

<code>
Example Bluff

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0
Player 2: W1, B2, R4, B3, G5
Player 3: ??, ??, ??, ??, R? Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 gives a red-clue to Player 3, marking it as PLAY. Player 2 sees that the R2 is ALMOST playable, so applies finesse logic and plays his DRAW card. Much to Player 2's surprise, he has not played R1, but W1 (which was also playable). Because Player 3 saw Player 2 playing his DRAW, which was a different colour than the clue he received, Player 3 knows it was a bluffed finesse situation. He concludes that his red card is R2, and saves it for later.

=== Reverse ===
This works the same as finesse. Only this time, the LOGICAL inbetween step, is a different players hand. This also gets 2 plays for 1 clue-token, but takes longer than a normal finesse.

<code>
Example Reverse

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0
Player 2: ??, ??, W?, ??, ??
Player 3: W1, B2, R4, B3, G5 Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 gives a white-clue to Player 2, marking it as PLAY. However, Player 2 sees that the DRAW card of Player 3 is a playable card of the same colour. Therefore, Player 2 assumes that it is (reversed) finesse, and that his white is ALMOST playable. Player 2 decides to discard his CHOP. Player 3 recognises the (reversed) finesse play, and plays his DRAW card to play the W1.

''Having the optimal player draw the last card (endgame)''

At the end of the game, the person who draws the last card (which happens either by playing or discarding) triggers the end of the game. After the last card is drawn, each player receives exactly one more turn. Sometimes near the end of the game you will want a specific player to play or discard in order to get the last turn. Giving an unusable clue can prevent a player from drawing the last card and begin the last round.

<code>
Table:
 '''1 card remaining in deck - Your turn'''
 R Y G B W M
 5 5 3 4 5 5

XX|XX|5b - me

??|??|3? - you

1y|4b|5g - 3rd player
</code>

In this situation, assume everyone knows where the remaining playable cards are. Instead of discarding in this situation, you want the 3rd player be the one to play and draw the last card. Give any clue to prevent triggering the endgame so that 3rd player can play 4b triggering the endgame and then in their last turn play the 5g.

Tips hanabi

2017-10-08T14:06:38Z

Gamersktrashcan: /* Finesse */

Tips hanabi

2017-09-17T08:17:19Z

Gamersktrashcan: /* Basics */

Tips hanabi

2017-09-17T08:17:01Z

Gamersktrashcan: /* Basics */

Tips hanabi

2017-09-06T23:23:03Z

Gamersktrashcan:

Tips hanabi

2017-09-05T22:10:35Z

Gamersktrashcan: /* Advanced Moves */

This guide is for strategy tips: How to interpret clues, how to give clues, how to decide to play, discard or clue.

== General ==
On BGA, there is no 1-strategy-to-be-played. However, if people start playing different strategies in 1 game, the game is doomed to fail. That is why communication in advance is very important, and why most hanabi-players get a lot of red thumbs. (Different strategy is interpreted as ruining the game.)

== Basics ==

The basic game, plays with 50 cards: 10 for each colour. If you want to get the maximum score of 25 points, you need to play 25 cards. Some of the cards are left in the players hands at the end of the game. Depending on the number of players, this will be 8, 12, 12, or 15 (for 2p, 3p, 4p, and 5p respectively). This means in the entire game, there are 17, 13, or 10 cards that can be discarded for clues. You also get 8 clue tokens at the start, making the total number of clues in the entire game 25, 21, or 18. This gives the logical conclusion that you can not clue the colour AND number for every card in your hand, because there are simply not enough clues.

It is therefore paramount, that only useful cards are clued. If you mark a card that you know will not be played, it will cost another clue (-1) to make your team mate discard that card to gain a clue (+1), which is a net result of 0. If the card is not marked, your team mate will discard it eventually to gain a clue (+1), which is a net result of +1.

This leads to '''Basic Rule #1''' (cluing).

Every card that is marked, is either
a) (a) useful card(s) to be saved (interpret it as PLAY LATER), or
b) a useful card to be played (interpret it as PLAY NOW).

Most hanabi-players on BGA play by this main rule. So when a clue is given, ask yourself "Is this clue to save something"? If not, it is to get played.
Saving cards is important because there are only 2 cards of value 2, 3, and 4 in each suit, and only 1 card of value 5. To not get stuck on that colour it is urgent to keep the last copy of a card safe (prevent from discarding it).

The game interface puts every new card you draw, on the left-hand side of your hand. This means, the left-most card is the newest card, which makes your right-most card automatically the oldest. If a card has been in your hand for a long time, and you have not been given a clue that marks it, it is logical that it is a useless card and safe to discard.

Hence, '''Basic Rule #2''' (discarding).
'''Discard first what you know is useless (like a clued 1 when all 1s are already played). After that: discard your oldest (right-most) unclued card.'''

Note, that this rule is already a bit tricky. At the start of the game, every card can be considered equally old. This is where personal preference of players starts to matter.

Another result from the newest --> oldest order, is the interpretation of multiple marked cards. When you get a clue that marks multiple cards, and you can identify it is in fact a clue for play (see Basic Rule 1), you should play the newest (left-most) card. If an older card was "the playable card", it would probably be clued earlier. The logical conclusion must be, that the newest card, was the card you all have been waiting for, and you happened to draw it.

'''Basic Rule #3''' (playing).
'''Play the newer (left-most) clued card'''

So most people on BGA expect you to ONLY play the clued card on the left. The rest of the cards are just to be kept on your hand. Beware that there are different approaches and not all players play by this convention.

== Basic Example ==

Imagine the following starting situation:
(oldest ... newest)
Player 1: W1, Y1, B2, Y2, B2
Player 2: G1, G1, W3, Y2, B1
Player 3: B1, R4, W4, R3, G3

P1 can clue 1s to P2. But that will mark both G1's, so it's not the best option. Better is for P1 to clue P3 1s, or blue. (If BLUE-clue is given, then P3 will not worry about the B1 in P2's hand that is about to be discarded. Both 1-clue or BLUE-clue only mark 1 card, so give equal information about the other cards in P3's hand.)

P2 will clue 1s to P1. He knows that P3 prefers to play his 1. And P2 is the only person who can see that the 1s in both P1's hand, and P3's hand are different.

Everyone will have to wait for B2 to be discarded, before the second B2 can be clued. Everyone will also have to wait for G1 to be discarded, before the second G1 can be clued. Alternatively, when R1 is drawn and clued, then both G1's may be clued, since all 1's will be played and all cards marked 1 can be safely discarded.

So, the first four moves are:

1. P1 clues BLUE to P3 (7 clues).

2. P2 clues 1 to P1 (6 clues).

3. P3 plays B1 and draws R1.

4. P1 plays W1 and draws G4.

The game now looks like this, with P2 to move:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: G4, Y(1), B2, Y2, B2 Played: R0, Y0, G0, B1, W1
Player 2: G1, G1, W3, Y2, B1
Player 3: R1, R4, W4, R3, G3 Discarded: -

5. P2 clues RED to P3.

There are two possible continuations from here.
'''Option 1'''

6. P3 plays R1 and draws Y5.

7. P1 plays Y1 and draws Y3.

8. P2 discards B1 and draws G2 (7 clues).

9. P3 clues 1 to P2 (6 clues).

10. P1 discards B2 and draws R4 (7 clues).

11. P2 plays G1 and draws B5.

12. P3 clues 2 to P2 (6 clues).

And the game will look like this, with P1 to move:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: R4, Y3, G4, B(2), Y(2) Played: R1, Y1, G1, B1, W1
Player 2: G2, G(1), G(1), W3, Y2
Player 3: Y5, (R)4, W4, (R)3, G3 Discarded: B1, B2

'''Option 2'''

6. P3 clues 1 to P2 (5 clues). This move delays him playing the R1, but will make P2 more confident in discarding since he knows all the useless 1s.

7. P1 plays Y1 and draws Y5.

8. P2 plays G1 and draws Y3.

9. P3 plays R1 and draws G2.

10. P1 discards B2 and draws R4 (6 clues).

11. P2 discards B1 and draws B5 (7 clues).

12. P3 clues 2 to P2 (6 clues).

And the game will look like this, with P1 to move:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: R4, Y5, G4, B(2), Y(2) Played: R1, Y1, G1, B1, W1
Player 2: Y3, G(1), W3, Y2, B(1)
Player 3: G2, (R)4, W4, (R)3, G3 Discarded: B2, B1

Both options are equally valid. They end up in the same situation, with only the cards in hands being in a different order. Since the cards are picked at random, there is no valid reason to say one option is better than the other.

In both options, the 2-clue is given to P1, to mark both 2s as playable. Since all 1s are played, all 2s will be playable.
Note that, in this game, two 1s where marked with one clue (and played); and two 2s were marked with one clue (and will be played). As stated in the beginning, there are a total of 21 clues (in this variant) to mark 25 cards. At this point in the game, there are 16 clues left to mark 18 cards. With only two more "efficient" clues, the game can end with a perfect score.

== Advanced Moves ==

''Intentional Discard''

Sometimes players can have hands where all cards are important and unplayable. To tell a player that his hand blocked, discard your '''CHOP''' card, even when you know you have a playable card. This is often done when you are low on (or out of) clue-tokens. This is a risky move, since your team mate(s) might expect you to play, instead of discard. ('''always try to give him clue to give and play his hand as fast as it possible''')

''Positional Discard'' (endgame)

Sometimes in (usually during the last turns) you will have no useful cards to play. You want to give a clue, but you have no remaining clue-tokens. In this case, you can discard the card in the same position as the card that you want that player to play.

<code>
Example Positional Discard

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R5, Y5, G4, B5, W5
Player 2: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?3
Player 3: G5, B2, R4, B3, W1 Discarded: -
</code>
In this example, when there are no clue-tokens left, Player 2 can discard his DRAW, to indicate to Player 3 the position of the last remaining playable card.

''Hint to Discard''

You can hint to a player to discard specific cards in order to save multiple cards, to to save cards without causing a confusion about finesse/reverse.

<code>
Example Hint to Discard
In this example, all 1s have been played already. Both the Y3 and the G4 need to be saved.

Player 1: G1, R1, B4, Y3, G4
</code>
If Player 1 is given a 4-clue, the G4 will be saved, but the Y3 will be the new CHOP card. One option to save both Y3, and G4 is to give Player 1, a 1-clue. This would make the R1 the new CHOP card, and the G1 will be the next CHOP card.

'' Double Save''

This is an alternative solution if you are low on clue-tokens, or don't have enough players to execute multiple saves in a row.

<code>
Example Double Save
In this example, W1 has not been played yet. Both the Y3 and the G4 need to be saved.

Player 1: G1, R1, B4, Y3, G4
</code>
This situation is similar as the Hint to Discard. However, in this situation a 1-clue will be interpreted as PLAY G1 (which isn't playable). To save both Y3 and G4, a blue-clue can be given to Player 1. This will cause him to BOMB on B4 (which isn't playable). But this tells him that all the cards RIGHT of the B4 needed to be saved. Note that this is a desperate measure, because it costs 2 clue-tokens (1 for the blue-clue and 1 for the BOMB card that should have been discarded) for 2 saves, but gives you no information about the saved cards.

----

'''2P GAMES''' 
With 2 players, you are limited in your options. Therefore the gameplay is different from 3+P games.

----

'''3+P GAMES''' 
''Finesse'' 
This advanced move, can get you 2 cards into play, with only 1 clue-token. You do this, by marking an ALMOST playable card as playable. Someone else will have to play the LOGICAL inbetween step, to make the card genuinely playable.

<code>
Example Finesse 1

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0
Player 2: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?5
Player 3: G5, B2, R4, B3, W1 Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 gives a blue-clue to Player 3, marking B2 as PLAY, and B3 as SAVE. Player 2 sees that the B2 is ALMOST playable. This means that Player 2 has the LOGICAL inbetween step: Player 2 has to play B1. The only logical place for that card is at the '''LEFT-MOST POSITION''' so Player 2 can assume that the '''DRAW''' card is the playable B1. If it was somewhere else in your hand, the card would have been clued earlier.

<code>
Example Finesse 2

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y1, G0, B2, W0
Player 2: ??, ??, ??, ?2, ?5
Player 3: Y3, G5, R4, B3, W1 Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 give a yellow-clue to Player 3, marking Y3 as PLAY. Player 2 sees that the Y3 is ALMOST playable. This means that Player 2 has the LOGICAL inbetween step: Player 2 has to play Y2. In this case, the Y2 is not on the DRAW card. The logical place for that card is the already marked 2. So Player 2 can assume that his card between the CHOP and the 5 is the Y2. '''Note: A MARKED card ALWAYS has priority over the DRAW card in case of finesse.'''

''Bluff'' 
This works the same as finesse. Only this time, the LOGICAL inbetween step, is a different playable card, so the player is tricked. It is slightly less strong that finesse, because it gives 1 play + 1 save for 1 clue-token.

<code>
Example Bluff

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0
Player 2: W1, B2, R4, B3, G5
Player 3: ??, ??, ??, ??, R? Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 gives a red-clue to Player 3, marking it as PLAY. Player 2 sees that the R2 is ALMOST playable, so applies finesse logic and plays his DRAW card. Much to Player 2's surprise, he has not played R1, but W1 (which was also playable). Because Player 3 saw Player 2 playing his DRAW, which was a different colour than the clue he received, Player 3 knows it was a bluffed finesse situation. He concludes that his red card is R2, and saves it for later.

''Reverse'' 
This works the same as finesse. Only this time, the LOGICAL inbetween step, is a different players hand. This also gets 2 plays for 1 clue-token, but takes longer than a normal finesse.

<code>
Example Reverse

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0
Player 2: ??, ??, W?, ??, ??
Player 3: W1, B2, R4, B3, G5 Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 gives a white-clue to Player 2, marking it as PLAY. However, Player 2 sees that the DRAW card of Player 3 is a playable card of the same colour. Therefore, Player 2 assumes that it is (reversed) finesse, and that his white is ALMOST playable. Player 2 decides to discard his CHOP. Player 3 recognises the (reversed) finesse play, and plays his DRAW card to play the W1.

''Having the optimal player draw the last card (endgame)''

At the end of the game, the person who draws the last card (which happens either by playing or discarding) triggers the end of the game. After the last card is drawn, each player receives exactly one more turn. Sometimes near the end of the game you will want a specific player to play or discard in order to get the last turn. Giving an unusable clue can prevent a player from drawing the last card and begin the last round.

<code>
Table:
 '''1 card remaining in deck - Your turn'''
 R Y G B W M
 5 5 3 4 5 5

XX|XX|5b - me

??|??|3? - you

1y|4b|5g - 3rd player
</code>

In this situation, assume everyone knows where the remaining playable cards are. Instead of discarding in this situation, you want the 3rd player be the one to play and draw the last card. Give any clue to prevent triggering the endgame so that 3rd player can play 4b triggering the endgame and then in their last turn play the 5g.

Tips hanabi

2017-09-05T22:09:32Z

Gamersktrashcan: /* Advanced */

This guide is for strategy tips: How to interpret clues, how to give clues, how to decide to play, discard or clue.

== General ==
On BGA, there is no 1-strategy-to-be-played. However, if people start playing different strategies in 1 game, the game is doomed to fail. That is why communication in advance is very important, and why most hanabi-players get a lot of red thumbs. (Different strategy is interpreted as ruining the game.)

== Basics ==

The basic game, plays with 50 cards: 10 for each colour. If you want to get the maximum score of 25 points, you need to play 25 cards. Some of the cards are left in the players hands at the end of the game. Depending on the number of players, this will be 8, 12, 12, or 15 (for 2p, 3p, 4p, and 5p respectively). This means in the entire game, there are 17, 13, or 10 cards that can be discarded for clues. You also get 8 clue tokens at the start, making the total number of clues in the entire game 25, 21, or 18. This gives the logical conclusion that you can not clue the colour AND number for every card in your hand, because there are simply not enough clues.

It is therefore paramount, that only useful cards are clued. If you mark a card that you know will not be played, it will cost another clue (-1) to make your team mate discard that card to gain a clue (+1), which is a net result of 0. If the card is not marked, your team mate will discard it eventually to gain a clue (+1), which is a net result of +1.

This leads to '''Basic Rule #1''' (cluing).

Every card that is marked, is either
a) (a) useful card(s) to be saved (interpret it as PLAY LATER), or
b) a useful card to be played (interpret it as PLAY NOW).

Most hanabi-players on BGA play by this main rule. So when a clue is given, ask yourself "Is this clue to save something"? If not, it is to get played.
Saving cards is important because there are only 2 cards of value 2, 3, and 4 in each suit, and only 1 card of value 5. To not get stuck on that colour it is urgent to keep the last copy of a card safe (prevent from discarding it).

The game interface puts every new card you draw, on the left-hand side of your hand. This means, the left-most card is the newest card, which makes your right-most card automatically the oldest. If a card has been in your hand for a long time, and you have not been given a clue that marks it, it is logical that it is a useless card and safe to discard.

Hence, '''Basic Rule #2''' (discarding).
'''Discard first what you know is useless (like a clued 1 when all 1s are already played). After that: discard your oldest (right-most) unclued card.'''

Note, that this rule is already a bit tricky. At the start of the game, every card can be considered equally old. This is where personal preference of players starts to matter.

Another result from the newest --> oldest order, is the interpretation of multiple marked cards. When you get a clue that marks multiple cards, and you can identify it is in fact a clue for play (see Basic Rule 1), you should play the newest (left-most) card. If an older card was "the playable card", it would probably be clued earlier. The logical conclusion must be, that the newest card, was the card you all have been waiting for, and you happened to draw it.

'''Basic Rule #3''' (playing).
'''Play the newer (left-most) clued card'''

So most people on BGA expect you to ONLY play the clued card on the left. The rest of the cards are just to be kept on your hand. Beware that there are different approaches and not all players play by this convention.

== Basic Example ==

Imagine the following starting situation:
(oldest ... newest)
Player 1: W1, Y1, B2, Y2, B2
Player 2: G1, G1, W3, Y2, B1
Player 3: B1, R4, W4, R3, G3

P1 can clue 1s to P2. But that will mark both G1's, so it's not the best option. Better is for P1 to clue P3 1s, or blue. (If BLUE-clue is given, then P3 will not worry about the B1 in P2's hand that is about to be discarded. Both 1-clue or BLUE-clue only mark 1 card, so give equal information about the other cards in P3's hand.)

P2 will clue 1s to P1. He knows that P3 prefers to play his 1. And P2 is the only person who can see that the 1s in both P1's hand, and P3's hand are different.

Everyone will have to wait for B2 to be discarded, before the second B2 can be clued. Everyone will also have to wait for G1 to be discarded, before the second G1 can be clued. Alternatively, when R1 is drawn and clued, then both G1's may be clued, since all 1's will be played and all cards marked 1 can be safely discarded.

So, the first four moves are:

1. P1 clues BLUE to P3 (7 clues).

2. P2 clues 1 to P1 (6 clues).

3. P3 plays B1 and draws R1.

4. P1 plays W1 and draws G4.

The game now looks like this, with P2 to move:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: G4, Y(1), B2, Y2, B2 Played: R0, Y0, G0, B1, W1
Player 2: G1, G1, W3, Y2, B1
Player 3: R1, R4, W4, R3, G3 Discarded: -

5. P2 clues RED to P3.

There are two possible continuations from here.
'''Option 1'''

6. P3 plays R1 and draws Y5.

7. P1 plays Y1 and draws Y3.

8. P2 discards B1 and draws G2 (7 clues).

9. P3 clues 1 to P2 (6 clues).

10. P1 discards B2 and draws R4 (7 clues).

11. P2 plays G1 and draws B5.

12. P3 clues 2 to P2 (6 clues).

And the game will look like this, with P1 to move:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: R4, Y3, G4, B(2), Y(2) Played: R1, Y1, G1, B1, W1
Player 2: G2, G(1), G(1), W3, Y2
Player 3: Y5, (R)4, W4, (R)3, G3 Discarded: B1, B2

'''Option 2'''

6. P3 clues 1 to P2 (5 clues). This move delays him playing the R1, but will make P2 more confident in discarding since he knows all the useless 1s.

7. P1 plays Y1 and draws Y5.

8. P2 plays G1 and draws Y3.

9. P3 plays R1 and draws G2.

10. P1 discards B2 and draws R4 (6 clues).

11. P2 discards B1 and draws B5 (7 clues).

12. P3 clues 2 to P2 (6 clues).

And the game will look like this, with P1 to move:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: R4, Y5, G4, B(2), Y(2) Played: R1, Y1, G1, B1, W1
Player 2: Y3, G(1), W3, Y2, B(1)
Player 3: G2, (R)4, W4, (R)3, G3 Discarded: B2, B1

Both options are equally valid. They end up in the same situation, with only the cards in hands being in a different order. Since the cards are picked at random, there is no valid reason to say one option is better than the other.

In both options, the 2-clue is given to P1, to mark both 2s as playable. Since all 1s are played, all 2s will be playable.
Note that, in this game, two 1s where marked with one clue (and played); and two 2s were marked with one clue (and will be played). As stated in the beginning, there are a total of 21 clues (in this variant) to mark 25 cards. At this point in the game, there are 16 clues left to mark 18 cards. With only two more "efficient" clues, the game can end with a perfect score.

== Advanced Moves ==
''Intentional Discard''

Sometimes players can have hands where all cards are important and unplayable. To tell a player that his hand blocked, discard your '''CHOP''' card, even when you know you have a playable card. This is often done when you are low on (or out of) clue-tokens. This is a risky move, since your team mate(s) might expect you to play, instead of discard. ('''always try to give him clue to give and play his hand as fast as it possible''')

''Positional Discard'' (endgame)

Sometimes in (usually during the last turns) you will have no useful cards to play. You want to give a clue, but you have no remaining clue-tokens. In this case, you can discard the card in the same position as the card that you want that player to play.

<code>
Example Positional Discard

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R5, Y5, G4, B5, W5
Player 2: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?3
Player 3: G5, B2, R4, B3, W1 Discarded: -
</code>
In this example, when there are no clue-tokens left, Player 2 can discard his DRAW, to indicate to Player 3 the position of the last remaining playable card.

''Hint to Discard''

You can hint to a player to discard specific cards in order to save multiple cards, to to save cards without causing a confusion about finesse/reverse.

<code>
Example Hint to Discard
In this example, all 1s have been played already. Both the Y3 and the G4 need to be saved.

Player 1: G1, R1, B4, Y3, G4
</code>
If Player 1 is given a 4-clue, the G4 will be saved, but the Y3 will be the new CHOP card. One option to save both Y3, and G4 is to give Player 1, a 1-clue. This would make the R1 the new CHOP card, and the G1 will be the next CHOP card.

'' Double Save''

This is an alternative solution if you are low on clue-tokens, or don't have enough players to execute multiple saves in a row.

<code>
Example Double Save
In this example, W1 has not been played yet. Both the Y3 and the G4 need to be saved.

Player 1: G1, R1, B4, Y3, G4
</code>
This situation is similar as the Hint to Discard. However, in this situation a 1-clue will be interpreted as PLAY G1 (which isn't playable). To save both Y3 and G4, a blue-clue can be given to Player 1. This will cause him to BOMB on B4 (which isn't playable). But this tells him that all the cards RIGHT of the B4 needed to be saved. Note that this is a desperate measure, because it costs 2 clue-tokens (1 for the blue-clue and 1 for the BOMB card that should have been discarded) for 2 saves, but gives you no information about the saved cards.

----

'''2P GAMES''' 
With 2 players, you are limited in your options. Therefore the gameplay is different from 3+P games.

----

'''3+P GAMES''' 
''Finesse'' 
This advanced move, can get you 2 cards into play, with only 1 clue-token. You do this, by marking an ALMOST playable card as playable. Someone else will have to play the LOGICAL inbetween step, to make the card genuinely playable.

<code>
Example Finesse 1

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0
Player 2: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?5
Player 3: G5, B2, R4, B3, W1 Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 gives a blue-clue to Player 3, marking B2 as PLAY, and B3 as SAVE. Player 2 sees that the B2 is ALMOST playable. This means that Player 2 has the LOGICAL inbetween step: Player 2 has to play B1. The only logical place for that card is at the '''LEFT-MOST POSITION''' so Player 2 can assume that the '''DRAW''' card is the playable B1. If it was somewhere else in your hand, the card would have been clued earlier.

<code>
Example Finesse 2

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y1, G0, B2, W0
Player 2: ??, ??, ??, ?2, ?5
Player 3: Y3, G5, R4, B3, W1 Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 give a yellow-clue to Player 3, marking Y3 as PLAY. Player 2 sees that the Y3 is ALMOST playable. This means that Player 2 has the LOGICAL inbetween step: Player 2 has to play Y2. In this case, the Y2 is not on the DRAW card. The logical place for that card is the already marked 2. So Player 2 can assume that his card between the CHOP and the 5 is the Y2. '''Note: A MARKED card ALWAYS has priority over the DRAW card in case of finesse.'''

''Bluff'' 
This works the same as finesse. Only this time, the LOGICAL inbetween step, is a different playable card, so the player is tricked. It is slightly less strong that finesse, because it gives 1 play + 1 save for 1 clue-token.

<code>
Example Bluff

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0
Player 2: W1, B2, R4, B3, G5
Player 3: ??, ??, ??, ??, R? Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 gives a red-clue to Player 3, marking it as PLAY. Player 2 sees that the R2 is ALMOST playable, so applies finesse logic and plays his DRAW card. Much to Player 2's surprise, he has not played R1, but W1 (which was also playable). Because Player 3 saw Player 2 playing his DRAW, which was a different colour than the clue he received, Player 3 knows it was a bluffed finesse situation. He concludes that his red card is R2, and saves it for later.

''Reverse'' 
This works the same as finesse. Only this time, the LOGICAL inbetween step, is a different players hand. This also gets 2 plays for 1 clue-token, but takes longer than a normal finesse.

<code>
Example Reverse

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0
Player 2: ??, ??, W?, ??, ??
Player 3: W1, B2, R4, B3, G5 Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 gives a white-clue to Player 2, marking it as PLAY. However, Player 2 sees that the DRAW card of Player 3 is a playable card of the same colour. Therefore, Player 2 assumes that it is (reversed) finesse, and that his white is ALMOST playable. Player 2 decides to discard his CHOP. Player 3 recognises the (reversed) finesse play, and plays his DRAW card to play the W1.

''Having the optimal player draw the last card (endgame)''

At the end of the game, the person who draws the last card (which happens either by playing or discarding) triggers the end of the game. After the last card is drawn, each player receives exactly one more turn. Sometimes near the end of the game you will want a specific player to play or discard in order to get the last turn. Giving an unusable clue can prevent a player from drawing the last card and begin the last round.

<code>
Table:
 '''1 card remaining in deck - Your turn'''
 R Y G B W M
 5 5 3 4 5 5

XX|XX|5b - me

??|??|3? - you

1y|4b|5g - 3rd player
</code>

In this situation, assume everyone knows where the remaining playable cards are. Instead of discarding in this situation, you want the 3rd player be the one to play and draw the last card. Give any clue to prevent triggering the endgame so that 3rd player can play 4b triggering the endgame and then in their last turn play the 5g.

Gamehelphanabi

2017-09-05T22:07:47Z

Gamersktrashcan:

Tips hanabi

2017-09-05T21:41:12Z

Gamersktrashcan: /* Advanced */

This guide is for strategy tips: How to interpret clues, how to give clues, how to decide to play, discard or clue.

== General ==
On BGA, there is no 1-strategy-to-be-played. However, if people start playing different strategies in 1 game, the game is doomed to fail. That is why communication in advance is very important, and why most hanabi-players get a lot of red thumbs. (Different strategy is interpreted as ruining the game.)

== Basics ==

The basic game, plays with 50 cards: 10 for each colour. If you want to get the maximum score of 25 points, you need to play 25 cards. Some of the cards are left in the players hands at the end of the game. Depending on the number of players, this will be 8, 12, 12, or 15 (for 2p, 3p, 4p, and 5p respectively). This means in the entire game, there are 17, 13, or 10 cards that can be discarded for clues. You also get 8 clue tokens at the start, making the total number of clues in the entire game 25, 21, or 18. This gives the logical conclusion that you can not clue the colour AND number for every card in your hand, because there are simply not enough clues.

It is therefore paramount, that only useful cards are clued. If you mark a card that you know will not be played, it will cost another clue (-1) to make your team mate discard that card to gain a clue (+1), which is a net result of 0. If the card is not marked, your team mate will discard it eventually to gain a clue (+1), which is a net result of +1.

This leads to '''Basic Rule #1''' (cluing).

Every card that is marked, is either
a) (a) useful card(s) to be saved (interpret it as PLAY LATER), or
b) a useful card to be played (interpret it as PLAY NOW).

Most hanabi-players on BGA play by this main rule. So when a clue is given, ask yourself "Is this clue to save something"? If not, it is to get played.
Saving cards is important because there are only 2 cards of value 2, 3, and 4 in each suit, and only 1 card of value 5. To not get stuck on that colour it is urgent to keep the last copy of a card safe (prevent from discarding it).

The game interface puts every new card you draw, on the left-hand side of your hand. This means, the left-most card is the newest card, which makes your right-most card automatically the oldest. If a card has been in your hand for a long time, and you have not been given a clue that marks it, it is logical that it is a useless card and safe to discard.

Hence, '''Basic Rule #2''' (discarding).
'''Discard first what you know is useless (like a clued 1 when all 1s are already played). After that: discard your oldest (right-most) unclued card.'''

Note, that this rule is already a bit tricky. At the start of the game, every card can be considered equally old. This is where personal preference of players starts to matter.

Another result from the newest --> oldest order, is the interpretation of multiple marked cards. When you get a clue that marks multiple cards, and you can identify it is in fact a clue for play (see Basic Rule 1), you should play the newest (left-most) card. If an older card was "the playable card", it would probably be clued earlier. The logical conclusion must be, that the newest card, was the card you all have been waiting for, and you happened to draw it.

'''Basic Rule #3''' (playing).
'''Play the newer (left-most) clued card'''

So most people on BGA expect you to ONLY play the clued card on the left. The rest of the cards are just to be kept on your hand. Beware that there are different approaches and not all players play by this convention.

== Basic Example ==

Imagine the following starting situation:
(oldest ... newest)
Player 1: W1, Y1, B2, Y2, B2
Player 2: G1, G1, W3, Y2, B1
Player 3: B1, R4, W4, R3, G3

P1 can clue 1s to P2. But that will mark both G1's, so it's not the best option. Better is for P1 to clue P3 1s, or blue. (If BLUE-clue is given, then P3 will not worry about the B1 in P2's hand that is about to be discarded. Both 1-clue or BLUE-clue only mark 1 card, so give equal information about the other cards in P3's hand.)

P2 will clue 1s to P1. He knows that P3 prefers to play his 1. And P2 is the only person who can see that the 1s in both P1's hand, and P3's hand are different.

Everyone will have to wait for B2 to be discarded, before the second B2 can be clued. Everyone will also have to wait for G1 to be discarded, before the second G1 can be clued. Alternatively, when R1 is drawn and clued, then both G1's may be clued, since all 1's will be played and all cards marked 1 can be safely discarded.

So, the first four moves are:

1. P1 clues BLUE to P3 (7 clues).

2. P2 clues 1 to P1 (6 clues).

3. P3 plays B1 and draws R1.

4. P1 plays W1 and draws G4.

The game now looks like this, with P2 to move:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: G4, Y(1), B2, Y2, B2 Played: R0, Y0, G0, B1, W1
Player 2: G1, G1, W3, Y2, B1
Player 3: R1, R4, W4, R3, G3 Discarded: -

5. P2 clues RED to P3.

There are two possible continuations from here.
'''Option 1'''

6. P3 plays R1 and draws Y5.

7. P1 plays Y1 and draws Y3.

8. P2 discards B1 and draws G2 (7 clues).

9. P3 clues 1 to P2 (6 clues).

10. P1 discards B2 and draws R4 (7 clues).

11. P2 plays G1 and draws B5.

12. P3 clues 2 to P2 (6 clues).

And the game will look like this, with P1 to move:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: R4, Y3, G4, B(2), Y(2) Played: R1, Y1, G1, B1, W1
Player 2: G2, G(1), G(1), W3, Y2
Player 3: Y5, (R)4, W4, (R)3, G3 Discarded: B1, B2

'''Option 2'''

6. P3 clues 1 to P2 (5 clues). This move delays him playing the R1, but will make P2 more confident in discarding since he knows all the useless 1s.

7. P1 plays Y1 and draws Y5.

8. P2 plays G1 and draws Y3.

9. P3 plays R1 and draws G2.

10. P1 discards B2 and draws R4 (6 clues).

11. P2 discards B1 and draws B5 (7 clues).

12. P3 clues 2 to P2 (6 clues).

And the game will look like this, with P1 to move:
(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: R4, Y5, G4, B(2), Y(2) Played: R1, Y1, G1, B1, W1
Player 2: Y3, G(1), W3, Y2, B(1)
Player 3: G2, (R)4, W4, (R)3, G3 Discarded: B2, B1

Both options are equally valid. They end up in the same situation, with only the cards in hands being in a different order. Since the cards are picked at random, there is no valid reason to say one option is better than the other.

In both options, the 2-clue is given to P1, to mark both 2s as playable. Since all 1s are played, all 2s will be playable.
Note that, in this game, two 1s where marked with one clue (and played); and two 2s were marked with one clue (and will be played). As stated in the beginning, there are a total of 21 clues (in this variant) to mark 25 cards. At this point in the game, there are 16 clues left to mark 18 cards. With only two more "efficient" clues, the game can end with a perfect score.

== Advanced ==
''Intentional Discard''

Sometimes players can have hands where all cards are important and unplayable. To tell a player that his hand blocked, discard your '''CHOP''' card, even when you know you have a playable card. This is often done when you are low on (or out of) clue-tokens. This is a risky move, since your team mate(s) might expect you to play, instead of discard. ('''always try to give him clue to give and play his hand as fast as it possible''')

'''2P GAMES''' 
With 2 players, you are limited in your options. Therefore the gameplay is different from 3+P games.

----

'''3+P GAMES''' 
''Finesse'' 
This advanced move, can get you 2 cards into play, with only 1 clue-token. You do this, by marking an ALMOST playable card as playable. Someone else will have to play the LOGICAL inbetween step, to make the card genuinely playable.

<code>
Example 1

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0
Player 2: ??, ??, ??, ??, ?5
Player 3: G5, B2, R4, B3, W1 Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 gives a blue-clue to Player 3, marking B2 as PLAY, and B3 as SAVE. Player 2 sees that the B2 is ALMOST playable. This means that Player 2 has the LOGICAL inbetween step: Player 2 has to play B1. The only logical place for that card is at the '''LEFT-MOST POSITION''' so Player 2 can assume that the '''DRAW''' card is the playable B1. If it was somewhere else in your hand, the card would have been clued earlier.

<code>
Example 2

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y1, G0, B2, W0
Player 2: ??, ??, ??, ?2, ?5
Player 3: Y3, G5, R4, B3, W1 Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 give a yellow-clue to Player 3, marking Y3 as PLAY. Player 2 sees that the Y3 is ALMOST playable. This means that Player 2 has the LOGICAL inbetween step: Player 2 has to play Y2. In this case, the Y2 is not on the DRAW card. The logical place for that card is the already marked 2. So Player 2 can assume that his card between the CHOP and the 5 is the Y2. '''Note: A MARKED card ALWAYS has priority over the DRAW card in case of finesse.'''

''Bluff'' 
This works the same as finesse. Only this time, the LOGICAL inbetween step, is a different playable card, so the player is tricked. It is slightly less strong that finesse, because it gives 1 play + 1 save for 1 clue-token.

<code>
Example 3

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0
Player 2: W1, B2, R4, B3, G5
Player 3: ??, ??, ??, ??, R? Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 gives a red-clue to Player 3, marking it as PLAY. Player 2 sees that the R2 is ALMOST playable, so applies finesse logic and plays his DRAW card. Much to Player 2's surprise, he has not played R1, but W1 (which was also playable). Because Player 3 saw Player 2 playing his DRAW, which was a different colour than the clue he received, Player 3 knows it was a bluffed finesse situation. He concludes that his red card is R2, and saves it for later.

''Reverse'' 
This works the same as finesse. Only this time, the LOGICAL inbetween step, is a different players hand. This also gets 2 plays for 1 clue-token, but takes longer than a normal finesse.

<code>
Example 4

All players have agreed on the convention that a colour-clue means PLAY the left-most marked card.

(newest ... oldest)
Player 1: XX, XX, XX, XX, XX Played: R0, Y0, G0, B0, W0
Player 2: ??, ??, W?, ??, ??
Player 3: W1, B2, R4, B3, G5 Discarded: -
</code>

Player 1 gives a white-clue to Player 2, marking it as PLAY. However, Player 2 sees that the DRAW card of Player 3 is a playable card of the same colour. Therefore, Player 2 assumes that it is (reversed) finesse, and that his white is ALMOST playable. Player 2 decides to discard his CHOP. Player 3 recognises the (reversed) finesse play, and plays his DRAW card to play the W1.

Tips hanabi

2017-09-05T21:22:37Z

Gamersktrashcan: /* Advanced */

Tips hanabi

2017-09-05T21:21:51Z

Gamersktrashcan: /* Advanced */

Tips hanabi

2017-09-05T21:21:31Z

Gamersktrashcan: /* Advanced */

Tips hanabi

2017-09-05T21:17:40Z

Gamersktrashcan:

Tips hanabi

2017-09-05T21:15:27Z

Gamersktrashcan:

Gamehelphanabi

2017-09-05T20:21:42Z

Gamersktrashcan:

== Introduction ==
Hanabi is a cooperative game. Your goal, as a team, is to build fabulous firework show. You do this by playing the cards in the right order. However, you cannot see your own cards; you can only see the cards of your team mates.

== Gameplay ==
You each take turns. During a turn, a player may take one (1) action. After his action, his turn ends and it is the next player's turn. The game can end in three ways:

1) All cards have been taken from the deck. After this happens, everybody gets 1 more turn. You win the game with the score at the last turn.

2) You have reached the maximum score possible. In this case you win the game with maximum score.

3) You have made three mistakes that caused a misfire. In this game you lose the game, and get 0 points.

== Turn ==
During your turn, you get one (1) action. With this action you can chose to do one of the following:

1) Give a clue. This costs a clue-token (-1). You cannot give a clue if there are 0 clue-tokens left. When you give a clue, you can indicate ALL cards of a certain colour, or ALL cards of a certain number.

2) Play a card. When a card is played, it is evaluated if the card fits in the sequence. If it does, it is placed on the table. If it does not, it is placed on the discard pile and you get a misfire-token.

3) Discard a card. When you discard, the card is placed on the discard pile and you get a clue-token (+1). Note: cards on the discard pile are out of the game and can never return.

When you remove a card from your hand, by either playing or discarding, at the end of your turn, you get a new card. '''Your newest card is always placed on the left'''.

== Lingo ==
When you play with others, certain words are used to describe certain objects or situations. Here is a short list.

'''CHOP''' the oldest, unmarked card. The right-most card that you have no information on.

'''DRAW''' the newest, unmarked card. The left-most card that you have no information on, this will almost always be the left card.

'''TO BOMB''' a play that causes a misfire-token. Sometimes also called '''EXPLOSION'''

'''MARKED''' a card that is highlighted by a clue.

== Cards ==
In a game of Hanabi on NORMAL DIFFICULTY, there are 5 colours of cards of value 1 to 5. In each suit there are:
-three 1s
-two 2s
-two 3s
-two 4s
-one 5
This makes 10 cards per colour.

There are three variants that add a 6th colour: the multicolour.
1) TRICKY DIFFICULTY adds 10 multicolour cards to the normal game. These cards get marked by a separate multicolour clue.
2) HARD DIFFICULTY adds 5 multicolour cards to the normal game: one of each. These cards get marked by a separate multicolour clue.
3) VERY DIFFICULT DIFFICULTY adds 10 multicolour cards to the normal game. These cards get marked by ANY colour clue.

== ELO rating ==
If you are playing with ELO rating on, your ELO may be changed at the end of the game.

Here is how it works:

1) Every player on the team is temporarily considered as having the average ELO rating of the team.

2) The system will generate a bot associated with the score your team has achieved (let’s call it '''Hanabot'''). Hanabot’s ELO rating depends on the variant you are playing (50 cards, 60 cards, 60 cards multicolor), the number of players on the team and, most importantly, your team's score. All Hanabot’s ELO ratings have been set by an experienced player, they are not random or simply proportional to the score/number of players.

3) Your team (actually your team's average ELO) will now compete against Hanabot. The system will calculate your team’s ELO gain/loss as though your team had tied with Hanabot.
If your score is below 18 (50-card game) or below 21 (60-card game), Hanabot's ELO is always 1000.

<code>
You can find all bots' ELO ratings here: http://forum.boardgamearena.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=4814

The 55-card variant (50 cards + 1 of each value in the sixth color) cannot be played with ELO rating on. This is because this variant is highly dependent on draw and a team’s score may not always reflect the players’ skills.

If you achieve the perfect score and this should cost you ELO points, you will be considered as having beaten the bot associated with the score, so that you lose no ELO points.
</code> 
To be confirmed: I think the ELO-system has had an overhaul.

== About "cheating" ==
In the "real life Hanabi", you can talk. That's why we chose to let the chat open for the online version.

As a consequence, it is very easy to cheat at Hanabi. However, as you can imagine, cheating is very stupid and has no interest... except for ELO boosting. This is why there is no international ranking for this game (ie: best player, second best player) and no trophies associated to it.

== Strategy ==
Please refer to the BGA strategy guide [http://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/Tips_hanabi here].

== Examples ==
General rules for Hanabi:
 The '''CHOP''' card is the un-clued card which is furthest to the '''RIGHT'''.
 The '''DRAW''' card is the un-clued card which is furthest to the '''LEFT''', almost always this is the left card.

1) New cards come from the left so '''DISCARD''' cards from '''RIGHT'''

2) Save - Sometimes players can have important cards that are not playable immediately. To save a card, wait until the card is the '''CHOP''' card and clue it '''BY NUMBER'''.

3) There are two ways to make somebody play(put/place) a card:
3.1 '''BY COLOR''': when you get or give color clue it means '''LEFT COLORED CARD PLAYABLE''' (unless the clue provides more information on another card)
3.2 '''BY NUMBER''': when you get or give a number clue it means '''LEFT NUMBERED CARD PLAYABLE''' (unless it provides more information on another card AND it is not a '''SAVE''' clue)
3.3 could be another variants(if you got 222 remember that all of them could be played after all 111111)

4) Try not to clue cards which can never be played because they won't discard those cards until you use another clue on them or they can use the process of elimination to determine that they aren't playable.

5) Try not to give unnecessary clues. In advanced play, every clue is played with a purpose behind it.

Advanced Tactics:

5) Intentional Discard - Sometimes players can have hands where all cards are important and unplayable. To tell a player that his hand blocked, discard your '''CHOP''' card when you have the '''LAST CLUE''' ('''always try to give him clue to give and play his hand as fast as it possible''')

6) Finesse
<code>
 Example 1
 Table:
 R Y G B W M
 0 0 0 0 0 0

XX|XX|XX - me

??|??|?? - you

5g|2b|4r - 3rd player
</code>

I clue the 3rd player BLUE color. The card I clued which would normally be played is '''UNPLAYABLE''' and one card would need to be played first. This signals you that you have that card at '''LEFT POSITION''' so you can assume that your '''DRAW''' card is the playable 1b.

If your hand contain clued card that could be that needed by color or by number, you should play it, not the left. See example 2.
<code>
 Example 2
 Table:
 R Y G B W M
 0 2 0 1 0 0

XX|XX|XX - me

??|??|2? - you

5g|3b|4r - 3rd player
</code>

Suppose on your last turn you received a 2 clue indicating that you should play the 2y. You now have a clued 2 card still in your hand which you aren't sure you can play. I clue the 3rd player BLUE color. Again, the card I clued which would normally be played is '''UNPLAYABLE''' and one card would need to be played first. You should, in this case, play the 2 card which has already been clued because you have the information on it.

7) Bluff
<code>
 Table:
 R Y G B W M
 0 0 0 0 0 0

XX|XX|XX - me

1g|4b|3w - 2nd player

??|??|?r - you
</code>

I clued you RED color. 2nd player will (and does) play his 1 green using the rule of finesse. 2nd player determined that your red is '''UNPLAYABLE''', and trying to fix it, he played the 1g which was not clued. You see that the color of the card played was different from the color of the card you were clued, which gives you the information that the clue you received was a '''BLUFF'''. Now you know that your red card is 2r (or possibly also 2m in very difficult difficulty).

8) Reverse
<code>
 Example 1
 Table:
 R Y G B W M
 0 0 0 0 0 0

XX|XX|XX - me

4g|2y|3w - 2nd player

??|??|?? - you
</code>

I clued 2nd player YELLOW color which would clue them to play under ordinary circumstances but instead of playing they discarded. This indicates to you that you have a '''PLAYABLE''' yellow '''DRAW''' card. In this case, you should play your un-clued draw card.

<code>Example 2
 Table:
 R Y G B W M
 0 0 0 0 0 0

XX|XX|XX - me

??|?y|?? - you

1y|2b|3g - 3rd player
</code>

Example 2 is the same hand from the other perspective.

Finesse, Reverse, and Bluff help you to save +50% clues, so getting a score of 30 (in the higher difficulties) becomes possible. There are some other variants of these advanced tricks; you situations like reverse for next 3 turns or finesse when 2-3 players have playable cards at the left sides and you just give clue to the last playable card...

9) Positional Discard (endgame) - Sometimes in the last turns you will have no useful cards to play and need to give a clue to indicate to a player which card to play but you have no remaining clues. In this case, discard the card in the same position as the card that you want that player to play.
<code>
 Table:
 R Y G B W M
 5 5 3 5 5 5

XX|XX|XX - me

??|??|3? - you

1y|2b|5g - 3rd player
</code>

In this example, I discard my 2nd card. This indicates to you that your 2nd card is the 4g.

10) Having the optimal player draw the last card (endgame) - At the end of the game, the person who draws the last card (which happens either by playing or discarding) triggers the end of the game. After the last card is drawn, each player receives exactly one more turn. Sometimes near the end of the game you will want a specific player to play or discard in order to get the last turn. Giving an unusable clue can prevent a player from drawing the last card and begin the last round.

<code>
Table:
 '''1 card remaining in deck - Your turn'''
 R Y G B W M
 5 5 3 4 5 5

XX|XX|5b - me

??|??|3? - you

1y|4b|5g - 3rd player
</code>

In this situation, assume everyone knows where the remaining playable cards are. Instead of discarding in this situation, you want the 3rd player be the one to play and draw the last card. Give any clue to prevent triggering the endgame so that 3rd player can play 4b triggering the endgame and then in their last turn play the 5g.

11) Hint to discard - You can hint to a player to discard by giving them an unusable clue (for example giving a 5 clue when that player has no 5 cards). This can be done to have a player discard a card which would normally be included in a clue (example: 1m|1r|3y|4g|1m would be a situation would be a hand which can be a better target for a 1 clue after that player discards AND there is also a potential for the player to draw another 1 card before being clued for 1s)

Gamehelphanabi

2017-09-05T20:20:11Z

Gamersktrashcan:

== Introduction ==
Hanabi is a cooperative game. Your goal, as a team, is to build fabulous firework show. You do this by playing the cards in the right order. However, you cannot see your own cards; you can only see the cards of your team mates.

== Gameplay ==
You each take turns. During a turn, a player may take one (1) action. After his action, his turn ends and it is the next player's turn. The game can end in three ways:

1) All cards have been taken from the deck. After this happens, everybody gets 1 more turn. You win the game with the score at the last turn.

2) You have reached the maximum score possible. In this case you win the game with maximum score.

3) You have made three mistakes that caused a misfire. In this game you lose the game, and get 0 points.

== Turn ==
During your turn, you get one (1) action. With this action you can chose to do one of the following:

1) Give a clue. This costs a clue-token (-1). You cannot give a clue if there are 0 clue-tokens left. When you give a clue, you can indicate ALL cards of a certain colour, or ALL cards of a certain number.

2) Play a card. When a card is played, it is evaluated if the card fits in the sequence. If it does, it is placed on the table. If it does not, it is placed on the discard pile and you get a misfire-token.

3) Discard a card. When you discard, the card is placed on the discard pile and you get a clue-token (+1). Note: cards on the discard pile are out of the game and can never return.

When you remove a card from your hand, by either playing or discarding, at the end of your turn, you get a new card. '''Your newest card is always placed on the left'''.

== Lingo ==
When you play with others, certain words are used to describe certain objects or situations. Here is a short list.
'''CHOP''' the oldest, unmarked card. The right-most card that you have no information on.
'''DRAW''' the newest, unmarked card. The left-most card that you have no information on, this will almost always be the left card.
'''TO BOMB''' a play that causes a misfire-token. Sometimes also called '''EXPLOSION'''
'''MARKED''' a card that is highlighted by a clue.

== Strategy ==
Please refer to the BGA strategy guide [http://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/Tips_hanabi here].

== Cards ==
In a game of Hanabi on NORMAL DIFFICULTY, there are 5 colours of cards of value 1 to 5. In each suit there are:
-three 1s
-two 2s
-two 3s
-two 4s
-one 5
This makes 10 cards per colour.

There are three variants that add a 6th colour: the multicolour.
1) TRICKY DIFFICULTY adds 10 multicolour cards to the normal game. These cards get marked by a separate multicolour clue.
2) HARD DIFFICULTY adds 5 multicolour cards to the normal game: one of each. These cards get marked by a separate multicolour clue.
3) VERY DIFFICULT DIFFICULTY adds 10 multicolour cards to the normal game. These cards get marked by ANY colour clue.

== About "cheating" ==

In the "real life Hanabi", you can talk. That's why we chose to let the chat open for the online version.

As a consequence, it is very easy to cheat at Hanabi. However, as you can imagine, cheating is very stupid and has no interest... except for ELO boosting. This is why there is no international ranking for this game (ie: best player, second best player) and no trophies associated to it.

== ELO rating ==
If you are playing with ELO rating on, your ELO may be changed at the end of the game.

Here is how it works:

1) Every player on the team is temporarily considered as having the average ELO rating of the team.

2) The system will generate a bot associated with the score your team has achieved (let’s call it '''Hanabot'''). Hanabot’s ELO rating depends on the variant you are playing (50 cards, 60 cards, 60 cards multicolor), the number of players on the team and, most importantly, your team's score. All Hanabot’s ELO ratings have been set by an experienced player, they are not random or simply proportional to the score/number of players.

3) Your team (actually your team's average ELO) will now compete against Hanabot. The system will calculate your team’s ELO gain/loss as though your team had tied with Hanabot.
If your score is below 18 (50-card game) or below 21 (60-card game), Hanabot's ELO is always 1000.

<code>
You can find all bots' ELO ratings here: http://forum.boardgamearena.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=4814

The 55-card variant (50 cards + 1 of each value in the sixth color) cannot be played with ELO rating on. This is because this variant is highly dependent on draw and a team’s score may not always reflect the players’ skills.

If you achieve the perfect score and this should cost you ELO points, you will be considered as having beaten the bot associated with the score, so that you lose no ELO points.
</code> 
To be confirmed: I think the ELO-system has had an overhaul.

== Examples ==
General rules for Hanabi:
 The '''CHOP''' card is the un-clued card which is furthest to the '''RIGHT'''.
 The '''DRAW''' card is the un-clued card which is furthest to the '''LEFT''', almost always this is the left card.

1) New cards come from the left so '''DISCARD''' cards from '''RIGHT'''

2) Save - Sometimes players can have important cards that are not playable immediately. To save a card, wait until the card is the '''CHOP''' card and clue it '''BY NUMBER'''.

3) There are two ways to make somebody play(put/place) a card:
3.1 '''BY COLOR''': when you get or give color clue it means '''LEFT COLORED CARD PLAYABLE''' (unless the clue provides more information on another card)
3.2 '''BY NUMBER''': when you get or give a number clue it means '''LEFT NUMBERED CARD PLAYABLE''' (unless it provides more information on another card AND it is not a '''SAVE''' clue)
3.3 could be another variants(if you got 222 remember that all of them could be played after all 111111)

4) Try not to clue cards which can never be played because they won't discard those cards until you use another clue on them or they can use the process of elimination to determine that they aren't playable.

5) Try not to give unnecessary clues. In advanced play, every clue is played with a purpose behind it.

Advanced Tactics:

5) Intentional Discard - Sometimes players can have hands where all cards are important and unplayable. To tell a player that his hand blocked, discard your '''CHOP''' card when you have the '''LAST CLUE''' ('''always try to give him clue to give and play his hand as fast as it possible''')

6) Finesse
<code>
 Example 1
 Table:
 R Y G B W M
 0 0 0 0 0 0

XX|XX|XX - me

??|??|?? - you

5g|2b|4r - 3rd player
</code>

I clue the 3rd player BLUE color. The card I clued which would normally be played is '''UNPLAYABLE''' and one card would need to be played first. This signals you that you have that card at '''LEFT POSITION''' so you can assume that your '''DRAW''' card is the playable 1b.

If your hand contain clued card that could be that needed by color or by number, you should play it, not the left. See example 2.
<code>
 Example 2
 Table:
 R Y G B W M
 0 2 0 1 0 0

XX|XX|XX - me

??|??|2? - you

5g|3b|4r - 3rd player
</code>

Suppose on your last turn you received a 2 clue indicating that you should play the 2y. You now have a clued 2 card still in your hand which you aren't sure you can play. I clue the 3rd player BLUE color. Again, the card I clued which would normally be played is '''UNPLAYABLE''' and one card would need to be played first. You should, in this case, play the 2 card which has already been clued because you have the information on it.

7) Bluff
<code>
 Table:
 R Y G B W M
 0 0 0 0 0 0

XX|XX|XX - me

1g|4b|3w - 2nd player

??|??|?r - you
</code>

I clued you RED color. 2nd player will (and does) play his 1 green using the rule of finesse. 2nd player determined that your red is '''UNPLAYABLE''', and trying to fix it, he played the 1g which was not clued. You see that the color of the card played was different from the color of the card you were clued, which gives you the information that the clue you received was a '''BLUFF'''. Now you know that your red card is 2r (or possibly also 2m in very difficult difficulty).

8) Reverse
<code>
 Example 1
 Table:
 R Y G B W M
 0 0 0 0 0 0

XX|XX|XX - me

4g|2y|3w - 2nd player

??|??|?? - you
</code>

I clued 2nd player YELLOW color which would clue them to play under ordinary circumstances but instead of playing they discarded. This indicates to you that you have a '''PLAYABLE''' yellow '''DRAW''' card. In this case, you should play your un-clued draw card.

<code>Example 2
 Table:
 R Y G B W M
 0 0 0 0 0 0

XX|XX|XX - me

??|?y|?? - you

1y|2b|3g - 3rd player
</code>

Example 2 is the same hand from the other perspective.

Finesse, Reverse, and Bluff help you to save +50% clues, so getting a score of 30 (in the higher difficulties) becomes possible. There are some other variants of these advanced tricks; you situations like reverse for next 3 turns or finesse when 2-3 players have playable cards at the left sides and you just give clue to the last playable card...

9) Positional Discard (endgame) - Sometimes in the last turns you will have no useful cards to play and need to give a clue to indicate to a player which card to play but you have no remaining clues. In this case, discard the card in the same position as the card that you want that player to play.
<code>
 Table:
 R Y G B W M
 5 5 3 5 5 5

XX|XX|XX - me

??|??|3? - you

1y|2b|5g - 3rd player
</code>

In this example, I discard my 2nd card. This indicates to you that your 2nd card is the 4g.

10) Having the optimal player draw the last card (endgame) - At the end of the game, the person who draws the last card (which happens either by playing or discarding) triggers the end of the game. After the last card is drawn, each player receives exactly one more turn. Sometimes near the end of the game you will want a specific player to play or discard in order to get the last turn. Giving an unusable clue can prevent a player from drawing the last card and begin the last round.

<code>
Table:
 '''1 card remaining in deck - Your turn'''
 R Y G B W M
 5 5 3 4 5 5

XX|XX|5b - me

??|??|3? - you

1y|4b|5g - 3rd player
</code>

In this situation, assume everyone knows where the remaining playable cards are. Instead of discarding in this situation, you want the 3rd player be the one to play and draw the last card. Give any clue to prevent triggering the endgame so that 3rd player can play 4b triggering the endgame and then in their last turn play the 5g.

11) Hint to discard - You can hint to a player to discard by giving them an unusable clue (for example giving a 5 clue when that player has no 5 cards). This can be done to have a player discard a card which would normally be included in a clue (example: 1m|1r|3y|4g|1m would be a situation would be a hand which can be a better target for a 1 clue after that player discards AND there is also a potential for the player to draw another 1 card before being clued for 1s)

Gamehelphanabi

2017-09-05T19:56:23Z

Gamersktrashcan:

== Introduction ==
Hanabi is a cooperative game. Your goal, as a team, is to build fabulous firework show. You do this by playing the cards in the right order. However, you cannot see your own cards; you can only see the cards of your team mates.

== Gameplay ==
You each take turns. During a turn, a player may take one (1) action. After his action, his turn ends and it is the next player's turn. The game can end in three ways:
1) All cards have been taken from the deck. After this happens, everybody gets 1 more turn. You win the game with the score at the last turn.
2) You have reached the maximum score possible. In this case you win the game with maximum score.
3) You have made three mistakes that caused a misfire. In this game you lose the game, and get 0 points.

== Turn ==
During your turn, you get one (1) action. With this action you can chose to do one of the following:
1) Give a clue. This costs a clue-token (-1). You cannot give a clue if there are 0 clue-tokens left. When you give a clue, you can indicate ALL cards of a certain colour, or ALL cards of a certain number.
2) Play a card. When a card is played, it is evaluated if the card fits in the sequence. If it does, it is placed on the table. If it does not, it is placed on the discard pile and you get a misfire-token.
3) Discard a card. When you discard, the card is placed on the discard pile and you get a clue-token (+1). Note: cards on the discard pile are out of the game and can never return.

When you remove a card from your hand, by either playing or discarding, at the end of your turn, you get a new card. '''Your newest card is always placed on the left'''.

== Lingo ==
When you play with others, certain words are used to describe certain objects or situations. Here is a short list.
'''CHOP''' the oldest, unmarked card. The right-most card that you have no information on.
'''DRAW''' the newest, unmarked card. The left-most card that you have no information on, this will almost always be the left card.
'''TO BOMB''' a play that causes a misfire-token. Sometimes also called '''EXPLOSION'''
'''MARKED''' a card that is highlighted by a clue.

== Strategy ==
Please refer to the BGA strategy guide [http://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/Tips_hanabi here].

== Cards ==
In a game of Hanabi on NORMAL DIFFICULTY, there are 5 colours of cards of value 1 to 5. In each suit there are:
-three 1s
-two 2s
-two 3s
-two 4s
-one 5
This makes 10 cards per colour.

There are three variants that add a 6th colour: the multicolour.
1) TRICKY DIFFICULTY adds 10 multicolour cards to the normal game. These cards get marked by a separate multicolour clue.
2) HARD DIFFICULTY adds 5 multicolour cards to the normal game: one of each. These cards get marked by a separate multicolour clue.
3) VERY DIFFICULT DIFFICULTY adds 10 multicolour cards to the normal game. These cards get marked by ANY colour clue.

== About "cheating" ==

In the "real life Hanabi", you can talk. That's why we chose to let the chat open for the online version.

As a consequence, it is very easy to cheat at Hanabi. However, as you can imagine, cheating is very stupid and has no interest... except for ELO boosting. This is why there is no international ranking for this game (ie: best player, second best player) and no trophies associated to it.

== ELO rating ==
If you are playing with ELO rating on, your ELO may be changed at the end of the game.

Here is how it works:

1) Every player on the team is temporarily considered as having the average ELO rating of the team.

2) The system will generate a bot associated with the score your team has achieved (let’s call it '''Hanabot'''). Hanabot’s ELO rating depends on the variant you are playing (50 cards, 60 cards, 60 cards multicolor), the number of players on the team and, most importantly, your team's score. All Hanabot’s ELO ratings have been set by an experienced player, they are not random or simply proportional to the score/number of players.

3) Your team (actually your team's average ELO) will now compete against Hanabot. The system will calculate your team’s ELO gain/loss as though your team had tied with Hanabot.
If your score is below 18 (50-card game) or below 21 (60-card game), Hanabot's ELO is always 1000.

<code>
You can find all bots' ELO ratings here: http://forum.boardgamearena.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=4814

The 55-card variant (50 cards + 1 of each value in the sixth color) cannot be played with ELO rating on. This is because this variant is highly dependent on draw and a team’s score may not always reflect the players’ skills.

If you achieve the perfect score and this should cost you ELO points, you will be considered as having beaten the bot associated with the score, so that you lose no ELO points.
</code>
To be confirmed: I think the ELO-system has had an overhaul.

== Examples ==
General rules for Hanabi:
 The '''CHOP''' card is the un-clued card which is furthest to the '''RIGHT'''.
 The '''DRAW''' card is the un-clued card which is furthest to the '''LEFT''', almost always this is the left card.

1) New cards come from the left so '''DISCARD''' cards from '''RIGHT'''

2) Save - Sometimes players can have important cards that are not playable immediately. To save a card, wait until the card is the '''CHOP''' card and clue it '''BY NUMBER'''.

3) There are two ways to make somebody play(put/place) a card:
3.1 '''BY COLOR''': when you get or give color clue it means '''LEFT COLORED CARD PLAYABLE''' (unless the clue provides more information on another card)
3.2 '''BY NUMBER''': when you get or give a number clue it means '''LEFT NUMBERED CARD PLAYABLE''' (unless it provides more information on another card AND it is not a '''SAVE''' clue)
3.3 could be another variants(if you got 222 remember that all of them could be played after all 111111)

4) Try not to clue cards which can never be played because they won't discard those cards until you use another clue on them or they can use the process of elimination to determine that they aren't playable.

5) Try not to give unnecessary clues. In advanced play, every clue is played with a purpose behind it.

Advanced Tactics:

5) Intentional Discard - Sometimes players can have hands where all cards are important and unplayable. To tell a player that his hand blocked, discard your '''CHOP''' card when you have the '''LAST CLUE''' ('''always try to give him clue to give and play his hand as fast as it possible''')

6) Finesse
<code>
 Example 1
 Table:
 R Y G B W M
 0 0 0 0 0 0

XX|XX|XX - me

??|??|?? - you

5g|2b|4r - 3rd player
</code>

I clue the 3rd player BLUE color. The card I clued which would normally be played is '''UNPLAYABLE''' and one card would need to be played first. This signals you that you have that card at '''LEFT POSITION''' so you can assume that your '''DRAW''' card is the playable 1b.

If your hand contain clued card that could be that needed by color or by number, you should play it, not the left. See example 2.
<code>
 Example 2
 Table:
 R Y G B W M
 0 2 0 1 0 0

XX|XX|XX - me

??|??|2? - you

5g|3b|4r - 3rd player
</code>

Suppose on your last turn you received a 2 clue indicating that you should play the 2y. You now have a clued 2 card still in your hand which you aren't sure you can play. I clue the 3rd player BLUE color. Again, the card I clued which would normally be played is '''UNPLAYABLE''' and one card would need to be played first. You should, in this case, play the 2 card which has already been clued because you have the information on it.

7) Bluff
<code>
 Table:
 R Y G B W M
 0 0 0 0 0 0

XX|XX|XX - me

1g|4b|3w - 2nd player

??|??|?r - you
</code>

I clued you RED color. 2nd player will (and does) play his 1 green using the rule of finesse. 2nd player determined that your red is '''UNPLAYABLE''', and trying to fix it, he played the 1g which was not clued. You see that the color of the card played was different from the color of the card you were clued, which gives you the information that the clue you received was a '''BLUFF'''. Now you know that your red card is 2r (or possibly also 2m in very difficult difficulty).

8) Reverse
<code>
 Example 1
 Table:
 R Y G B W M
 0 0 0 0 0 0

XX|XX|XX - me

4g|2y|3w - 2nd player

??|??|?? - you
</code>

I clued 2nd player YELLOW color which would clue them to play under ordinary circumstances but instead of playing they discarded. This indicates to you that you have a '''PLAYABLE''' yellow '''DRAW''' card. In this case, you should play your un-clued draw card.

<code>Example 2
 Table:
 R Y G B W M
 0 0 0 0 0 0

XX|XX|XX - me

??|?y|?? - you

1y|2b|3g - 3rd player
</code>

Example 2 is the same hand from the other perspective.

Finesse, Reverse, and Bluff help you to save +50% clues, so getting a score of 30 (in the higher difficulties) becomes possible. There are some other variants of these advanced tricks; you situations like reverse for next 3 turns or finesse when 2-3 players have playable cards at the left sides and you just give clue to the last playable card...

9) Positional Discard (endgame) - Sometimes in the last turns you will have no useful cards to play and need to give a clue to indicate to a player which card to play but you have no remaining clues. In this case, discard the card in the same position as the card that you want that player to play.
<code>
 Table:
 R Y G B W M
 5 5 3 5 5 5

XX|XX|XX - me

??|??|3? - you

1y|2b|5g - 3rd player
</code>

In this example, I discard my 2nd card. This indicates to you that your 2nd card is the 4g.

10) Having the optimal player draw the last card (endgame) - At the end of the game, the person who draws the last card (which happens either by playing or discarding) triggers the end of the game. After the last card is drawn, each player receives exactly one more turn. Sometimes near the end of the game you will want a specific player to play or discard in order to get the last turn. Giving an unusable clue can prevent a player from drawing the last card and begin the last round.

<code>
Table:
 '''1 card remaining in deck - Your turn'''
 R Y G B W M
 5 5 3 4 5 5

XX|XX|5b - me

??|??|3? - you

1y|4b|5g - 3rd player
</code>

In this situation, assume everyone knows where the remaining playable cards are. Instead of discarding in this situation, you want the 3rd player be the one to play and draw the last card. Give any clue to prevent triggering the endgame so that 3rd player can play 4b triggering the endgame and then in their last turn play the 5g.

11) Hint to discard - You can hint to a player to discard by giving them an unusable clue (for example giving a 5 clue when that player has no 5 cards). This can be done to have a player discard a card which would normally be included in a clue (example: 1m|1r|3y|4g|1m would be a situation would be a hand which can be a better target for a 1 clue after that player discards AND there is also a potential for the player to draw another 1 card before being clued for 1s)

Gamehelphanabi

2017-09-05T19:42:50Z

Gamersktrashcan:

== Introduction ==
Hanabi is a cooperative game. Your goal, as a team, is to build fabulous firework show. You do this by playing the cards in the right order. However, you cannot see your own cards; you can only see the cards of your team mates.

== Gameplay ==
You each take turns. During a turn, a player may take one (1) action. After his action, his turn ends and it is the next player's turn. The game can end in three ways:
1) All cards have been taken from the deck. After this happens, everybody gets 1 more turn. You win the game with the score at the last turn.
2) You have reached the maximum score possible. In this case you win the game with maximum score.
3) You have made three mistakes that caused a misfire. In this game you lose the game, and get 0 points.

== Turn ==
During your turn, you get one (1) action. With this action you can chose to do one of the following:
1) Give a clue. This costs a clue-token (-1). You cannot give a clue if there are 0 clue-tokens left. When you give a clue, you can indicate ALL cards of a certain colour, or ALL cards of a certain number.
2) Play a card. When a card is played, it is evaluated if the card fits in the sequence. If it does, it is placed on the table. If it does not, it is placed on the discard pile and you get a misfire-token.
3) Discard a card. When you discard, the card is placed on the discard pile and you get a clue-token (+1). Note: cards on the discard pile are out of the game and can never return.

When you remove a card from your hand, by either playing or discarding, at the end of your turn, you get a new card. '''Your newest card is always placed on the left'''.

== Lingo ==
When you play with others, certain words are used to describe certain objects or situations. Here is a short list.
'''CHOP''' the oldest, unmarked card. The right-most card that you have no information on.
'''DRAW''' the newest, unmarked card. The left-most card that you have no information on, this will almost always be the left card.
'''TO BOMB''' a play that causes a misfire-token. Sometimes also called '''EXPLOSION'''

== Strategy ==
Please refer to the BGA strategy guide [http://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/Tips_hanabi link here].
General rules for Hanabi:
 The '''CHOP''' card is the un-clued card which is furthest to the '''RIGHT'''.
 The '''DRAW''' card is the un-clued card which is furthest to the '''LEFT''', almost always this is the left card.

1) New cards come from the left so '''DISCARD''' cards from '''RIGHT'''

2) Save - Sometimes players can have important cards that are not playable immediately. To save a card, wait until the card is the '''CHOP''' card and clue it '''BY NUMBER'''.

3) There are two ways to make somebody play(put/place) a card:
3.1 '''BY COLOR''': when you get or give color clue it means '''LEFT COLORED CARD PLAYABLE''' (unless the clue provides more information on another card)
3.2 '''BY NUMBER''': when you get or give a number clue it means '''LEFT NUMBERED CARD PLAYABLE''' (unless it provides more information on another card AND it is not a '''SAVE''' clue)
3.3 could be another variants(if you got 222 remember that all of them could be played after all 111111)

4) Try not to clue cards which can never be played because they won't discard those cards until you use another clue on them or they can use the process of elimination to determine that they aren't playable.

5) Try not to give unnecessary clues. In advanced play, every clue is played with a purpose behind it.

Advanced Tactics:

5) Intentional Discard - Sometimes players can have hands where all cards are important and unplayable. To tell a player that his hand blocked, discard your '''CHOP''' card when you have the '''LAST CLUE''' ('''always try to give him clue to give and play his hand as fast as it possible''')

6) Finesse
<code>
 Example 1
 Table:
 R Y G B W M
 0 0 0 0 0 0

XX|XX|XX - me

??|??|?? - you

5g|2b|4r - 3rd player
</code>

I clue the 3rd player BLUE color. The card I clued which would normally be played is '''UNPLAYABLE''' and one card would need to be played first. This signals you that you have that card at '''LEFT POSITION''' so you can assume that your '''DRAW''' card is the playable 1b.

If your hand contain clued card that could be that needed by color or by number, you should play it, not the left. See example 2.
<code>
 Example 2
 Table:
 R Y G B W M
 0 2 0 1 0 0

XX|XX|XX - me

??|??|2? - you

5g|3b|4r - 3rd player
</code>

Suppose on your last turn you received a 2 clue indicating that you should play the 2y. You now have a clued 2 card still in your hand which you aren't sure you can play. I clue the 3rd player BLUE color. Again, the card I clued which would normally be played is '''UNPLAYABLE''' and one card would need to be played first. You should, in this case, play the 2 card which has already been clued because you have the information on it.

7) Bluff
<code>
 Table:
 R Y G B W M
 0 0 0 0 0 0

XX|XX|XX - me

1g|4b|3w - 2nd player

??|??|?r - you
</code>

I clued you RED color. 2nd player will (and does) play his 1 green using the rule of finesse. 2nd player determined that your red is '''UNPLAYABLE''', and trying to fix it, he played the 1g which was not clued. You see that the color of the card played was different from the color of the card you were clued, which gives you the information that the clue you received was a '''BLUFF'''. Now you know that your red card is 2r (or possibly also 2m in very difficult difficulty).

8) Reverse
<code>
 Example 1
 Table:
 R Y G B W M
 0 0 0 0 0 0

XX|XX|XX - me

4g|2y|3w - 2nd player

??|??|?? - you
</code>

I clued 2nd player YELLOW color which would clue them to play under ordinary circumstances but instead of playing they discarded. This indicates to you that you have a '''PLAYABLE''' yellow '''DRAW''' card. In this case, you should play your un-clued draw card.

<code>Example 2
 Table:
 R Y G B W M
 0 0 0 0 0 0

XX|XX|XX - me

??|?y|?? - you

1y|2b|3g - 3rd player
</code>

Example 2 is the same hand from the other perspective.

Finesse, Reverse, and Bluff help you to save +50% clues, so getting a score of 30 (in the higher difficulties) becomes possible. There are some other variants of these advanced tricks; you situations like reverse for next 3 turns or finesse when 2-3 players have playable cards at the left sides and you just give clue to the last playable card...

9) Positional Discard (endgame) - Sometimes in the last turns you will have no useful cards to play and need to give a clue to indicate to a player which card to play but you have no remaining clues. In this case, discard the card in the same position as the card that you want that player to play.
<code>
 Table:
 R Y G B W M
 5 5 3 5 5 5

XX|XX|XX - me

??|??|3? - you

1y|2b|5g - 3rd player
</code>

In this example, I discard my 2nd card. This indicates to you that your 2nd card is the 4g.

10) Having the optimal player draw the last card (endgame) - At the end of the game, the person who draws the last card (which happens either by playing or discarding) triggers the end of the game. After the last card is drawn, each player receives exactly one more turn. Sometimes near the end of the game you will want a specific player to play or discard in order to get the last turn. Giving an unusable clue can prevent a player from drawing the last card and begin the last round.

<code>
Table:
 '''1 card remaining in deck - Your turn'''
 R Y G B W M
 5 5 3 4 5 5

XX|XX|5b - me

??|??|3? - you

1y|4b|5g - 3rd player
</code>

In this situation, assume everyone knows where the remaining playable cards are. Instead of discarding in this situation, you want the 3rd player be the one to play and draw the last card. Give any clue to prevent triggering the endgame so that 3rd player can play 4b triggering the endgame and then in their last turn play the 5g.

11) Hint to discard - You can hint to a player to discard by giving them an unusable clue (for example giving a 5 clue when that player has no 5 cards). This can be done to have a player discard a card which would normally be included in a clue (example: 1m|1r|3y|4g|1m would be a situation would be a hand which can be a better target for a 1 clue after that player discards AND there is also a potential for the player to draw another 1 card before being clued for 1s)

== Cards ==

In a standard game of Hanabi, there are 5 colors of cards of value 1 to 5. In each suit there are

-three 1s

-two 2s

-two 3s

-two 4s

-one 5

== About "cheating" ==

In the "real life Hanabi", you can talk. That's why we chose to let the chat open for the online version.

As a consequence, it is very easy to cheat at Hanabi. However, as you can imagine, cheating is very stupid and has no interest... except for ELO boosting. This is why there is no international ranking for this game (ie: best player, second best player) and no trophies associated to it.

== ELO rating ==
If you are playing with ELO rating on, your ELO may be changed at the end of the game.

Here is how it works:

1) Every player on the team is temporarily considered as having the average ELO rating of the team.

2) The system will generate a bot associated with the score your team has achieved (let’s call it '''Hanabot'''). Hanabot’s ELO rating depends on the variant you are playing (50 cards, 60 cards, 60 cards multicolor), the number of players on the team and, most importantly, your team's score. All Hanabot’s ELO ratings have been set by an experienced player, they are not random or simply proportional to the score/number of players.

3) Your team (actually your team's average ELO) will now compete against Hanabot. The system will calculate your team’s ELO gain/loss as though your team had tied with Hanabot.
If your score is below 18 (50-card game) or below 21 (60-card game), Hanabot's ELO is always 1000.

FYI, you can find all bots' ELO ratings here: http://forum.boardgamearena.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=4814

The 55-card variant (50 cards + 1 of each value in the sixth color) cannot be played with ELO rating on. This is because this variant is highly dependent on draw and a team’s score may not always reflect the players’ skills.

A loss (3 Strike tokens) is the same as a score of 0.

If you achieve the perfect score and this should cost you ELO points, you will be considered as having beaten the bot associated with the score, so that you lose no ELO points.