Board Game Arena - User contributions [en]

Tips imperialsettlers

2025-11-14T06:54:58Z

BusyBeaver: Bullet points

1. Production locations and deals give you resources back immediately, so you can buy one after another with few starting resources.

2. Workers are best spent on drawing more cards. Exchanging them for resources is generally inefficient.

3. End game scores of 100+ are possible. Barbarians are easiest to get in that range, they have many cost-efficient production locations.

Tips imperialsettlers

2025-11-14T06:45:32Z

BusyBeaver: Basic tips

Production locations and deals give you resources back immediately, so you can buy one after another with few starting resources.

Workers are best spent on drawing more cards. Exchanging them for resources is generally inefficient.

End game scores of 100+ are possible. Barbarians are easiest to get in that range, they have many cost-efficient production locations.

Tips pathofcivilization

2024-08-27T12:29:19Z

BusyBeaver: Basic strategy guide writeup

General Strategy:

Your top priority in the early game should be generating technology points (circles) since they can be reinvested in technology cards and hence work like compound interest.

Towards the end of the game, the cube resources are getting more important when surplus circles become completely worthless.

The most critical decision is what technology to develop next. Try to match the thresholds 4, 7 and 10.

It is rewarding to know the technology cards very well since they are the same every game and always available. Moreover, they have some systematic oddities: most notably, the level 2 technologies each produce 2 circles required by the column on its right but only one 1 for the left one. Hence, researching technologies from left to right is easier than vice versa.

The Different Cube Resources:

Sages: Consistent but mediocre point generators. During the Challenge events, they can help to gain small edges in circles if you don't have to disrupt your overall plan for that.

Ambassadors: Because some leaders generate resources over time, you should get one of them as soon as possible. In particular one of the five leaders who cost only 2 and generate one circle are extremely efficient because they generate those in the same round in which you buy them and because of the compound interest effect. Hence, opening with Tyranny is strongly recommended in general.

Soldiers: The effectiveness of soldiers depend strongly upon the specific Battle event since some of them have very large margins between the rewards for the different ranks while others have rather small margins.

Builders: Building small non-military wonders are very cost-effective since each of them contributes to a challenge. Investing in military wonders is the more flexible way to gain soldiers than via technology cards.

Philosophers: Mostly translate to just points. The resource bonuses at the beginning are not impactful compared to other investments, so this should rather be started from the midgame.

Tips evolution

2024-05-10T19:41:35Z

BusyBeaver: reordering

You draw 1 additional card per round for each of your species, so try to have more than one species in play. Too many species are a liability though, since they might become easy prey for your opponent's carnivores. Having 3 species is often a sweet spot.

If you have a carnivore, it has to have higher body-size to attack another species (exception is pack hunting). Since increasing body-size is an expensive investment, the top priority for your carnivore should be to avoid extinction. Hurting your opponent's species is secondary.

Carnivores are not inherently better than herbivores, it all depends on the current environment, e.g. how much food is in the pond, how many defenseless species are on the board, etc..
There is a rock paper scissors dynamic for play styles: defense > carnivore > greedy herbivore > defense

Don't spend all your cards each turn, it is often better to save cards until they become more useful or needed. One specific trait played at the right time can make the difference of a huge carnivore dying of starvation or instead destroying an opponents board.

Most cards are very situational, nonetheless here is a very rough tier list:

S: Cooperation

A: Warning Call, Fertile, Horns

B: Intelligence, Climbing, Carnivore, Scavenger, Ambush, Pack-Hunting, Symbiosis

C: Hard Shell, Burrowing, Fat Tissue, Long Neck

D: Defensive Herding, Foraging

2-player games are very different from 3+:

-In 2-player, the game is zero-sum and hence carnivores with intelligence are really strong (since discarding a card is no problem for attacking since your only opponent also lose one population which is also worth a card)

-For 3+ players, scoring tends to be more important than hurting one of your opponents.

Tips evolution

2024-05-10T19:40:32Z

BusyBeaver: fix copy error

You draw 1 additional card per round for each of your species, so try to have more than one species in play. Too many species are a liability though, since they might become easy prey for your opponent's carnivores. Having 3 species is often a sweet spot.

If you have a carnivore, it has to have higher body-size to attack another species (exception is pack hunting). Since increasing body-size is an expensive investment, the top priority for your carnivore should be to avoid extinction. Hurting your opponent's species is secondary.

Carnivores are not inherently better than herbivores, it all depends on the current environment, e.g. how much food is in the pond, how many defenseless species are on the board, etc..
There is a rock paper scissors dynamic for play styles: defense > carnivore > greedy herbivore > defense

Don't spend all your cards each turn, it is often better to save cards until they become more useful or needed. One specific trait played at the right time can make the difference of a huge carnivore dying of starvation or instead destroying an opponents board.

2-player games are very different from 3+:

-In 2-player, the game is zero-sum and hence carnivores with intelligence are really strong (since discarding a card is no problem for attacking since your only opponent also lose one population which is also worth a card)

-For 3+ players, scoring tends to be more important than hurting one of your opponents.

Most cards are very situational, nonetheless here is a very rough tier list:

S: Cooperation

A: Warning Call, Fertile, Horns

B: Intelligence, Climbing, Carnivore, Scavenger, Ambush, Pack-Hunting, Symbiosis

C: Hard Shell, Burrowing, Fat Tissue, Long Neck

D: Defensive Herding, Foraging

Tips evolution

2024-05-10T19:36:41Z

BusyBeaver: pargraph

You draw 1 additional card per round for each of your species, so try to have more than one species in play. Too many species are a liability though, since they might become easy prey for your opponent's carnivores. Having 3 species is often a sweet spot.

If you have a carnivore, it has to have higher body-size to attack another species (exception is pack hunting). Since increasing body-size is an expensive investment, the top priority for your carnivore should be to avoid extinction. Hurting your opponent's species is secondary.

Carnivores are not inherently better than herbivores, it all depends on the current environment, e.g. how much food is in the pond, how many defenseless species are on the board, etc..
There is a rock paper scissors dynamic for play styles: defense > carnivore > greedy herbivore > defense

Don't spend all your cards each turn, it is often better to save cards until they become more useful or needed. One specific trait played at the right time can make the difference of a huge carnivore dying of starvation or instead destroying an opponents board.

2-player games are very different from 3+:

-In 2-player, the game is zero-sum and hence carnivores with intelligence are really strong (since discarding a card is no problem for attacking since your only opponent also lose one population which is also worth a card)

-For 3+ players, scoring tends to be more important than hurting one of your opponents.
Most cards are very situational, nonetheless here is a very rough tier list:

Most cards are very situational, nonetheless here is a very rough tier list:

S: Cooperation

A: Warning Call, Fertile, Horns

B: Intelligence, Climbing, Carnivore, Scavenger, Ambush, Pack-Hunting, Symbiosis

C: Hard Shell, Burrowing, Fat Tissue, Long Neck

D: Defensive Herding, Foraging

Tips evolution

2024-05-10T19:35:58Z

BusyBeaver: paragraph again

You draw 1 additional card per round for each of your species, so try to have more than one species in play. Too many species are a liability though, since they might become easy prey for your opponent's carnivores. Having 3 species is often a sweet spot.

If you have a carnivore, it has to have higher body-size to attack another species (exception is pack hunting). Since increasing body-size is an expensive investment, the top priority for your carnivore should be to avoid extinction. Hurting your opponent's species is secondary.

Carnivores are not inherently better than herbivores, it all depends on the current environment, e.g. how much food is in the pond, how many defenseless species are on the board, etc..
There is a rock paper scissors dynamic for play styles: defense > carnivore > greedy herbivore > defense

Don't spend all your cards each turn, it is often better to save cards until they become more useful or needed. One specific trait played at the right time can make the difference of a huge carnivore dying of starvation or instead destroying an opponents board.

2-player games are very different from 3+:

-In 2-player, the game is zero-sum and hence carnivores with intelligence are really strong (since discarding a card is no problem for attacking since your only opponent also lose one population which is also worth a card)

-For 3+ players, scoring tends to be more important than hurting one of your opponents.
Most cards are very situational, nonetheless here is a very rough tier list:

Most cards are very situational, nonetheless here is a very rough tier list:

S: Cooperation

A: Warning Call, Fertile, Horns

B: Intelligence, Climbing, Carnivore, Scavenger, Ambush, Pack-Hunting, Symbiosis

C: Hard Shell, Burrowing, Fat Tissue, Long Neck

D: Defensive Herding, Foraging

Tips evolution

2024-05-10T19:35:02Z

BusyBeaver: paragraphs

You draw 1 additional card per round for each of your species, so try to have more than one species in play. Too many species are a liability though, since they might become easy prey for your opponent's carnivores. Having 3 species is often a sweet spot.

If you have a carnivore, it has to have higher body-size to attack another species (exception is pack hunting). Since increasing body-size is an expensive investment, the top priority for your carnivore should be to avoid extinction. Hurting your opponent's species is secondary.

Carnivores are not inherently better than herbivores, it all depends on the current environment, e.g. how much food is in the pond, how many defenseless species are on the board, etc..
There is a rock paper scissors dynamic for play styles: defense > carnivore > greedy herbivore > defense

Don't spend all your cards each turn, it is often better to save cards until they become more useful or needed. One specific trait played at the right time can make the difference of a huge carnivore dying of starvation or instead destroying an opponents board.

2-player games are very different from 3+:

-In 2-player, the game is zero-sum and hence carnivores with intelligence are really strong (since discarding a card is no problem for attacking since your only opponent also lose one population which is also worth a card)

-For 3+ players, scoring tends to be more important than hurting one of your opponents.

Most cards are very situational, nonetheless here is a very rough tier list:

S: Cooperation

A: Warning Call, Fertile, Horns

B: Intelligence, Climbing, Carnivore, Scavenger, Ambush, Pack-Hunting, Symbiosis

C: Hard Shell, Burrowing, Fat Tissue, Long Neck

D: Defensive Herding, Foraging

Tips evolution

2024-05-10T19:32:37Z

BusyBeaver: Tips Evolution

You draw 1 additional card per round for each of your species, so try to have more than one species in play. Too many species are a liability though, since they might become easy prey for your opponent's carnivores. Having 3 species is often a sweet spot.

If you have a carnivore, it has to have higher body-size to attack another species (exception is pack hunting). Since increasing body-size is an expensive investment, the top priority for your carnivore should be to avoid extinction. Hurting your opponent's species is secondary.

Carnivores are not inherently better than herbivores, it all depends on the current environment, e.g. how much food is in the pond, how many defenseless species are on the board, etc..
There is a rock paper scissors dynamic for play styles: defense > carnivore > greedy herbivore > defense

Don't spend all your cards each turn, it is often better to save cards until they become more useful or needed. One specific trait played at the right time can make the difference of a huge carnivore dying of starvation or instead destroying an opponents board.

2-player games are very different from 3+:
-In 2-player, the game is zero-sum and hence carnivores with intelligence are really strong (since discarding a card is no problem for attacking since your only opponent also lose one population which is also worth a card)
-For 3+ players, scoring tends to be more important than hurting one of your opponents.

Most cards are very situational, nonetheless here is a very rough tier list:

S: Cooperation
A: Warning Call, Fertile, Horns
B: Intelligence, Climbing, Carnivore, Scavenger, Ambush, Pack-Hunting, Symbiosis
C: Hard Shell, Burrowing, Fat Tissue, Long Neck
D: Defensive Herding, Foraging

Tips goldblivion

2023-10-01T09:48:44Z

BusyBeaver: Fix format

Relative value of resources: 
-Gold: 7 nuggets (by the game rules) 
-Material:
On one hand, some cards offer either 4 nuggets or 1 material.
On the other hand, a development card produces 0.5 materials or 1 gold per round.
So one material is worth around ~3 nuggets. Therefore you should rather develop material instead of gold production. 
-Magic tokens: They are highly situational, on average worth ~3.5. 
-Dice: By averaging over the sides, a dice is worth slightly more than 2. 

 

Villages: 
The left village has a side where you pay 2 and gain a dice, so it pays for itself and you gain a destroy action.
You should almost always use it when available, otherwise you can expect your opponent to do it.
For the right village, the side which converts 2 materials in one gold should also been taken in general before your opponent can.
The other sides are rather situational, so you can expect those actions to be open most of the time.

 

Synergies: 
-Elves:
Elves have the highest synergy, so avoid bloating your deck with non-elves if you plan elves as your long term strategy.
As an opponent, pay attention and try to destroy the most synergistic elf cards like "Eve and Lily" from the market. 
-Dwarves:
Only 2 out of 34 combat cards in the deck profit of this synergy, so you should only go for this opportunistically. 
-Humans:
Since it is usually best to sacrifice the basic human workers for development early and the synergy reward comes mostly with buildings late in the game, it is rather some nice bonus than something to rely on. 
-Buildings: Negligible

 

Combat: 
-Even losing a combat is good since it improves your combat deck by allowing you to destroy your weaker soldiers. 
-The forest enemies provide good rewards for relatively little investment in military.
Even though the mountain enemies provide better rewards, they require a significantly bigger investment and are much more risky. 

 

Deck management: 
For the last few rounds, you can trim down your deck so that you have an arbitrary number of cards which each draw another card plus 4 non-drawing cards.
In the next round you are then guaranteed to draw at least one of the drawing cards and with that you can consistently draw your entire deck.
Before you play the last drawing card you can buy another card, put it on the top of your deck and then draw it and play it immediately.
This is very effective since most cards are paying back more than their cost just by playing once.

Games between skilled players almost always end on the 6th round, so don't waste resources building up a super long term engine.

Tips goldblivion

2023-10-01T09:48:17Z

BusyBeaver: Change Wording

Relative value of resources:<: 
-Gold: 7 nuggets (by the game rules) 
-Material:
On one hand, some cards offer either 4 nuggets or 1 material.
On the other hand, a development card produces 0.5 materials or 1 gold per round.
So one material is worth around ~3 nuggets. Therefore you should rather develop material instead of gold production. 
-Magic tokens: They are highly situational, on average worth ~3.5. 
-Dice: By averaging over the sides, a dice is worth slightly more than 2. 

 

Villages: 
The left village has a side where you pay 2 and gain a dice, so it pays for itself and you gain a destroy action.
You should almost always use it when available, otherwise you can expect your opponent to do it.
For the right village, the side which converts 2 materials in one gold should also been taken in general before your opponent can.
The other sides are rather situational, so you can expect those actions to be open most of the time.

 

Synergies: 
-Elves:
Elves have the highest synergy, so avoid bloating your deck with non-elves if you plan elves as your long term strategy.
As an opponent, pay attention and try to destroy the most synergistic elf cards like "Eve and Lily" from the market. 
-Dwarves:
Only 2 out of 34 combat cards in the deck profit of this synergy, so you should only go for this opportunistically. 
-Humans:
Since it is usually best to sacrifice the basic human workers for development early and the synergy reward comes mostly with buildings late in the game, it is rather some nice bonus than something to rely on. 
-Buildings: Negligible

 

Combat: 
-Even losing a combat is good since it improves your combat deck by allowing you to destroy your weaker soldiers. 
-The forest enemies provide good rewards for relatively little investment in military.
Even though the mountain enemies provide better rewards, they require a significantly bigger investment and are much more risky. 

 

Deck management: 
For the last few rounds, you can trim down your deck so that you have an arbitrary number of cards which each draw another card plus 4 non-drawing cards.
In the next round you are then guaranteed to draw at least one of the drawing cards and with that you can consistently draw your entire deck.
Before you play the last drawing card you can buy another card, put it on the top of your deck and then draw it and play it immediately.
This is very effective since most cards are paying back more than their cost just by playing once.

Games between skilled players almost always end on the 6th round, so don't waste resources building up a super long term engine.

Tips goldblivion

2023-09-20T23:03:49Z

BusyBeaver: Fix error

Resource relations: 
-Gold: 7 nuggets (by the game rules) 
-Material:
On one hand, some cards offer either 4 nuggets or 1 material.
On the other hand, a development card produces 0.5 materials or 1 gold per round.
So one material is worth around ~3 nuggets. Therefore you should rather develop material instead of gold production. 
-Magic tokens: They are highly situational, on average worth ~3.5. 
-Dice: By averaging over the sides, a dice is worth slightly more than 2. 

 

Villages: 
The left village has a side where you pay 2 and gain a dice, so it pays for itself and you gain a destroy action.
You should almost always use it when available, otherwise you can expect your opponent to do it.
For the right village, the side which converts 2 materials in one gold should also been taken in general before your opponent can.
The other sides are rather situational, so you can expect those actions to be open most of the time.

 

Synergies: 
-Elves:
Elves have the highest synergy, so avoid bloating your deck with non-elves if you plan elves as your long term strategy.
As an opponent, pay attention and try to destroy the most synergistic elf cards like "Eve and Lily" from the market. 
-Dwarves:
Only 2 out of 34 combat cards in the deck profit of this synergy, so you should only go for this opportunistically. 
-Humans:
Since it is usually best to sacrifice the basic human workers for development early and the synergy reward comes mostly with buildings late in the game, it is rather some nice bonus than something to rely on. 
-Buildings: Negligible

 

Combat: 
-Even losing a combat is good since it improves your combat deck by allowing you to destroy your weaker soldiers. 
-The forest enemies provide good rewards for relatively little investment in military.
Even though the mountain enemies provide better rewards, they require a significantly bigger investment and are much more risky. 

 

Deck management: 
For the last few rounds, you can trim down your deck so that you have an arbitrary number of cards which each draw another card plus 4 non-drawing cards.
In the next round you are then guaranteed to draw at least one of the drawing cards and with that you can consistently draw your entire deck.
Before you play the last drawing card you can buy another card, put it on the top of your deck and then draw it and play it immediately.
This is very effective since most cards are paying back more than their cost just by playing once.

Games between skilled players almost always end on the 6th round, so don't waste resources building up a super long term engine.

Tips goldblivion

2023-09-20T23:02:48Z

BusyBeaver: Remove one word

Resource relations: 
-Gold: 7 nuggets (by the game rules) 
-Material:
On one hand, some cards offer either 4 nuggets or 1 material.
On the other hand, a development card produces 0.5 materials or 1 gold per round.
So one material is worth around ~3 nuggets. Therefore you should rather develop material instead of gold production. 
-Magic tokens: They are highly situational, on average worth ~3.5. 
-Dice: By averaging over the sides, a dice is worth slightly more than 2. 

 

Villages: 
The left village has a side where you pay 2 golds and gain a dice, so it pays for itself and you gain a destroy action.
You should almost always use it when available, otherwise you can expect your opponent to do it.
For the right village, the side which converts 2 materials in one gold should also been taken in general before your opponent can.
The other sides are rather situational, so you can expect those actions to be open most of the time.

 

Synergies: 
-Elves:
Elves have the highest synergy, so avoid bloating your deck with non-elves if you plan elves as your long term strategy.
As an opponent, pay attention and try to destroy the most synergistic elf cards like "Eve and Lily" from the market. 
-Dwarves:
Only 2 out of 34 combat cards in the deck profit of this synergy, so you should only go for this opportunistically. 
-Humans:
Since it is usually best to sacrifice the basic human workers for development early and the synergy reward comes mostly with buildings late in the game, it is rather some nice bonus than something to rely on. 
-Buildings: Negligible

 

Combat: 
-Even losing a combat is good since it improves your combat deck by allowing you to destroy your weaker soldiers. 
-The forest enemies provide good rewards for relatively little investment in military.
Even though the mountain enemies provide better rewards, they require a significantly bigger investment and are much more risky. 

 

Deck management: 
For the last few rounds, you can trim down your deck so that you have an arbitrary number of cards which each draw another card plus 4 non-drawing cards.
In the next round you are then guaranteed to draw at least one of the drawing cards and with that you can consistently draw your entire deck.
Before you play the last drawing card you can buy another card, put it on the top of your deck and then draw it and play it immediately.
This is very effective since most cards are paying back more than their cost just by playing once.

Games between skilled players almost always end on the 6th round, so don't waste resources building up a super long term engine.

Tips goldblivion

2023-09-20T23:00:28Z

BusyBeaver: Formatting

Resource relations: 
-Gold: 7 nuggets (by the game rules) 
-Material:
On one hand, some cards offer either 4 nuggets or 1 material.
On the other hand, a development card produces 0.5 materials or 1 gold per round.
So one material is worth around ~3 nuggets. Therefore you should rather develop material instead of gold production. 
-Magic tokens: They are highly situational, on average worth ~3.5. 
-Dice: By averaging over the sides, a dice is worth slightly more than 2. 

 

Villages: 
The left village has a side where you pay 2 golds and gain a dice, so it pays for itself and you gain a destroy action.
You should almost always use it when available, otherwise you can expect your opponent to do it.
For the right village, the side which converts 2 materials in one gold should also been taken in general before your opponent can.
The other sides are rather situational, so you can expect those actions to be open most of the time.

 

Synergies: 
-Elves:
Elves have the highest synergy, so avoid bloating your deck with non-elves if you plan elves as your long term strategy.
As an opponent, pay attention and try to destroy the most synergistic elf cards like "Eve and Lily" from the market. 
-Dwarves:
Only 2 out of 34 combat cards in the deck profit of this synergy, so you should only go for this opportunistically. 
-Humans:
Since it is usually best to sacrifice the basic human workers for development early and the synergy reward comes mostly with buildings late in the game, it is rather some nice bonus than something to rely on. 
-Buildings: Negligible

 

Combat: 
-Even losing a combat is good since it improves your combat deck by allowing you to destroy your weaker soldiers. 
-The forest enemies provide good rewards for relatively little investment in military.
Even though the mountain enemies provide better rewards, they require a significantly bigger investment and are much more risky. 

 

Deck management: 
For the last few rounds, you can trim down your deck so that you have an arbitrary number of cards which each draw another card plus standard 4 non-drawing cards.
In the next round you are then guaranteed to draw at least one of the drawing cards and with that you can consistently draw your entire deck.
Before you play the last drawing card you can buy another card, put it on the top of your deck and then draw it and play it immediately.
This is very effective since most cards are paying back more than their cost just by playing once.

Games between skilled players almost always end on the 6th round, so don't waste resources building up a super long term engine.

Tips goldblivion

2023-09-20T22:53:10Z

BusyBeaver: Initial advice

To put the resources in relation:
-Gold: 7 nuggets (by the game rules)
-Material: On one hand, some cards offer either 4 nuggets or 1 material. On the other hand, a development card produces 0.5 materials or 1 gold per round. So one material is worth around ~3 nuggets. Therefore you should rather develop material instead of gold production.
-Magic tokens: They are highly situational, on average worth ~3.5.
-Dice: By averaging over the sides, a dice is worth slightly more than 2.

Villages:
The left village has a side where you pay 2 golds and gain a dice, so it pays for itself and you gain a destroy action. You should almost always use it when available, otherwise you can expect your opponent to do it.
For the right village, the side which converts 2 materials in one gold should also been taken in general before your opponent can.
The other sides are rather situational, so you can expect those actions to be open most of the time.

Synergies:
-Elves: Elves have the highest synergy, so avoid bloating your deck with non-elves if you plan elves as your long term strategy. As an opponent, pay attention and try to destroy the most synergistic elf cards like "Eve and Lily" from the market.
-Dwarves: Only 2 out of 34 combat cards in the deck profit of this synergy, so you should only go for this opportunistically.
-Humans: Since it is usually best to sacrifice the basic human workers for development early and the synergy reward comes mostly with buildings late in the game, it is rather some nice bonus than something to rely on.
-Buildings: Negligible

Combat:
-Even losing a combat is good since it improves your combat deck by allowing you to destroy your weaker soldiers.
-The forest enemies provide good rewards for relatively little investment in military. Even though the mountain enemies provide better rewards, they require a significantly bigger investment and are much more risky.

Deck management:
For the last few rounds, you can trim down your deck so that you have an arbitrary number of cards which each draw another card plus standard 4 non-drawing cards. In the next round you are then guaranteed to draw at least one of the drawing cards and with that you can consistently draw your entire deck. Before you play the last drawing card you can buy another card, put it on the top of your deck and then draw it and play it immediately. This is very effective since most cards are paying back more than their cost just by playing once.

Games between skilled players almost always end on the 6th round, so don't waste resources building up a super long term engine.

Tips afterus

2023-09-16T16:40:49Z

BusyBeaver:

When collecting resources from the first row: Pay attention to properly collect all the resources and not to skip by accident because the buttons of the interface sometimes rearrange to where your mouse pointer was for the last click.

For the second and third row, the arrows always point to the right. Since the yield of the higher tier apes is really good, it is generally a good idea to first shift your higher tier apes to the right before making fine adjustments.

At the beginning of the game, you want to permanently remove your basic apes asap to draw your more efficient high tier apes more often. Therefore you should focus on corn (black resource) first to get some gorillas, tier 1 gorillas are sufficient for that.

In the midgame, getting chimpanzees and orangutans (preferably tier 2) is usually good to enable diversity boni.

Towards the endgame the game becomes a race to 80 points, so you then should only attract the blue mandrill apes and trade resources for points whenever possible.

Tips afterus

2023-09-16T16:05:33Z

BusyBeaver: Initial

When collecting resources from the first row: Pay attention to properly collect all the resources and not to skip by accident because the buttons of the interface sometimes rearrange to where your mouse pointer was for the last click.

For the second and third row, the arrows always point to the right. Since the yield of the higher tier apes is really good, it is generally a good idea to first shift your higher tier apes to the right before making fine adjustments.

At the beginning of the game, you want to permanently remove your basic apes asap to draw your more efficient high tier apes more often. Therefore you should focus on corn (black resource) first to get some gorillas, tier 1 gorillas are sufficient for that.

In the midgame, getting chimpanzees and orangutans (preferably tier 2) is usually good to enable diversity boni.

Towards the endgame the game becomes race to 80 points, so you then should only attract the blue mandrill apes and trade resources for points whenever possible.

Tips bunnykingdom

2023-08-09T13:03:32Z

BusyBeaver: grammar

Tips:

1. You draw ~40 cards and want to score ~200 points. So each card should give you about 5 points on average.

2. Fiefs are the main source of your victory points. You should get a fief of at least all 3 basic resources and many castles.

3. Most Parchment cards give you more than 5 so you should take more of this kind. Cards like pan pan the barbarian, socialist and liberal, diplomat and bureaucrat usually give you 10+ points so they are solid choices. You may have one or two resource production missions, but don't get all three. You can't finish that much.

4. Territory on its own gives you no points. Even with special parchment cards, they tend to yield less than 5 points, so you should not take unnecessary territory cards. Focus on a small fief that has all resources and just enough space to put in your castles.

5. Don't waste your first turns getting overly scattered territories which you may not use later. Instead, focus on getting buildings cards and parchments first. After a few turns, you can see where the other players plan to settle and identify an empty region for yourself where competition over territories is less likely.

6. You should start building your primary fief neither too early nor too late: Getting cohesive territory early is hard and the few points are not so relevant in total. Building too late leaves few rounds to score. Therefore, the best time to commit your buildings is usually round 2 or 3.

Tips bunnykingdom

2023-08-09T12:59:28Z

BusyBeaver: formatting

Tips:

1. You draw ~40 cards and want to score ~200 points. So each card should give you about 5 points on average.

2. Fiefs are the main source of your victory points. You should get a fief of at least all 3 basic resources and many castles.

3. Most Parchment cards give you more than 5 so you should take more of this kind. Cards like pan pan the barbarian, socialist and liberal, diplomat and bureaucrat usually give you 10+ points so they are solid choices. You may have one or two resource production missions, but don't get all three. You can't finish that much.

4. Territory on its own gives you no points. Even with special parchment cards, they tend to yield less than 5 points, so you should not take unnecessary territory cards. Focus on a small fief that has all resources and just enough space to put in your castles.

5. Don't waste your first turns getting overly scattered territories which you may not use later. Instead, focus on getting buildings cards and parchments first. After a few turns, you can see where the other players plan to settle and identify an empty region for yourself where competition over territories is less likely.

6. You shouldn't start building your primary fief too early nor too late: Getting cohesive territory early is unlikely and the few points are not so relevant in total. Building too late leaves few rounds to score. Therefore, the best time to commit your buildings is usually round 2 or 3.

Tips bunnykingdom

2023-08-09T12:58:51Z

BusyBeaver: Overhauled

Tips:
1. You draw ~40 cards and want to score ~200 points. So each card should give you about 5 points on average.

2. Fiefs are the main source of your victory points. You should get a fief of at least all 3 basic resources and many castles.

3. Most Parchment cards give you more than 5 so you should take more of this kind. Cards like pan pan the barbarian, socialist and liberal, diplomat and bureaucrat usually give you 10+ points so they are solid choices. You may have one or two resource production missions, but don't get all three. You can't finish that much.

4. Territory on its own gives you no points. Even with special parchment cards, they tend to yield less than 5 points, so you should not take unnecessary territory cards. Focus on a small fief that has all resources and just enough space to put in your castles.

5. Don't waste your first turns getting overly scattered territories which you may not use later. Instead, focus on getting buildings cards and parchments first. After a few turns, you can see where the other players plan to settle and identify an empty region for yourself where competition over territories is less likely.

6. You shouldn't start building your primary fief too early nor too late: Getting cohesive territory early is unlikely and the few points are not so relevant in total. Building too late leaves few rounds to score. Therefore, the best time to commit your buildings is usually round 2 or 3.

Tips bunnykingdom

2023-08-09T12:10:25Z

BusyBeaver: Improve grammar and spelling

Tips:
You have ~40 cards and want to score ~200 points. So each card should give you about 5 points on average. Cards that give you less than 5 points are bad and vice versa. So here comes advice:

1. Fiefs are the main source of your victory points. You should get a fief of at least all 3 basic resources and many castles. Since fiefs give you points every turn, you should get it ready as early as possible.

2. Most Parchment cards give you more than 5 so you should take more of this kind. Cards like pan pan the barbarian, socialist and liberal, diplomat and bureaucrats usually give you 10+ points so they are a very good choice. You may have one or two resource production missions, but don't get all three. You can't finish that much.

3. Most territory cards give you less than 5 point so you should not take unnecessary territory cards. Just have a small fief that has all resources and enough space to put in your castles. In normal case, a territory card can give you 2(barbarian)+2(mountain king)+1(extra fief)=5 points most(and you need to take 3 more parchment cards).

4. A 1X castle usually means 1-2points in first round, 1-3 in second round, 2-4 in third round and 3-5 in last round, depending on how many kinds of goods you have in your best fief. 2X castle has 2X points. 1X castle may be weaker than calculation here, for it needs space to place, and that may be a constraint. You may also lose barbarian points if you put castles on grass or mountain. So you see, 2X castle is great in first two round and not that good in the last turn. Thus you want more Parchment cards in the last two rounds.