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== Phase of the game ==
=== General ===


This game is about optimizing the moves and informations given in order to win (as fast as possible).
This game is about optimizing the moves and informations given in order to win (as fast as possible).


The game has three main phases:
The most important thing to understand is during the early game, the goal is to give informations to others players.
More the game advance, and less what you check is important, and more the movement is.


- the early game (turn 1/2 of each player) where few information are available for each player ;
During early game, you want to be obvious in what you did. During late game, you want to be effecient.


- the mid game (turn 2/3/4 of each player) where players start to understand exactly where all the final colors will be ;
=== Summary: ===


- the late game where players finish the job by moving the last few tiles.
todo


== General ==
=== Peeking: ===


The most important thing to understand is during the early game, the goal is to give informations to others players.
You usually want to peek (in order of value):
More the game advance, and less what you check is important, and more the movement is.
# if before your peek you already got a move planned, a tile where certain colors would make that move bad (=peek close to the tile you plan to move)
# tiles you can move
# tiles not adjacent to any tiles you know
# if you search for a tile to move, peek at tiles far from the action. If you search for a tile to lock, peek at tiles close to the action
# if a single color hint is available, peek at tiles close to the action to lock it there
# if before your second peek, you still got no tile to move, try to peek at a tile you could move which would make that tile close to the action
# if you fully optimise, and if you got a move to do before your first or second peek, you can peek at a bad tile (like a tile you can't move) to show to your teammate you already got a pair. In some cases, if you finally don't move your first pair, you will give extra infos


During early game, you want to be obvious in what you did. During late game, you want to be effecient. This is less true at high level table becauve you can understand more easily what a tricky move does (and so be more effecient even in early game).
=== Moving: ===


During mid game, the goal is to optimise the deplacement by trying to gain one turn by moving a card which will link cards of same colors. Per example if you got 4 cards put as a L, and the one in the up and the two in the down of the L are the same color ; you can try to move the middle one, and replace it with a card of the same color of the three others.
You usually want to:
# group your pairs to make them be adjacent (for the others players to know you got a pair). You usually got two possibilities to move your pair, try to regroup them close to the action/close to unknown tiles
# put low priority on moving tiles which are one or two aways: you got the upside to have the possibilities to 'fill the gap' with the others cards of that type
# if you fully optimise and got more than one pair, put more value on moving your latter pair: if your teammates paid close attention to what you peeked at, they can deduce things from your weird second peek (since you already got one pair)


== Hints meaning ==
=== Hints meaning ===


If a red hint is available, and a red/purple hint is available, you can assume using the red/purple hint for red is straight up bad. That mean you can use red/purple to said it's purple.
If a red hint is available, and a red/purple hint is available, you can assume using the red/purple hint for red is straight up bad. That mean you can use red/purple to said it's purple.
For the same reason, if a red/purple/green hint is available, and a red/purple is available, you can use the red/purple/green hint for 100% green.
For the same reason, if a red/purple/green hint is available, and a red/purple is available, you can use the red/purple/green hint for 100% green.


== Hints placement ==
Furthermore, if a red/purple/green hint is available, and a red/purple/blue hint is available, and no hint has been placed, locking a tile with a three color hint is bad, that don't give much informations. That mean, if you do it anyway, it's because you want to insist in the difference. So red/purple/green would be green, and red/purple/blue would be blue. This work until another hint is drawn.
 
But, if you got red/purple and red/green available, here you got value of locking some red. So here, the playstyle betweens players are differents, some would assume 100% purple and 100% green, while others would assume more like purple or green (mathematiquely it's at least 66%) but potentially red.
 
=== Drawing/Hinting: ===
 
Putting a hint block the tile which can't be moved anymore. Which mean you shouldn't lock a single card excentred with color rgb.
 
You only want to lock at tiles:
# where there is at least another tile of the same color nearby
# or the color of the card under the hint is known after your hint
 
Furthermore, locking a single card is not great. You could either never do it, or do it only if:
# it's early or sometimes it's late but most of the unknown tiles nearby are on that color, that can happen if you have peek at like 3 or 4 of the same color
# the color is known
# the card is close to the the action
# maybe if your teammate got a timing to use that hint (if a purple hint is available and he didn't used it, that mean he didn't got many purples)
 
=== Position of locking: ===
 
You usually want to lock your pair or trio in one of the extremity. Usually the tile you didn't move, or if you did an unrelated move, the closer to the action, except if it's confusing.
Usually, a locking of an outside extremity mean you got a trio.
If you got a pair, and a third tile of that color which is one away of that pair, you usually want to lock the solo tile if the color of the hint is known. If it isn't, that can be confusing, so use at your own risk. Since that hint is really weird, that give extra informations to the other player. In the worst case if he add another identical color in the following turn, you will just have to fill the gap later with one of the two tiles of your pair.
 
If you fully optimise, you want to lock a tile at the best position.
But, you can use the position of the hint to convey extra information. If you got access to a green/red hint, and have 2 red and 1 green, you want to first lock your two reds, but give a place to put a card next to it, which would touch both your pair of red, and your green. That way, whatever card your teammate put next to it, it will be good. So, if you don't respect the previous rule, that for me mean you are in this specific case.
And so depending of the move and position of lock done by the you, the other player can deduce differents things.
 
=== Points: ===
 
+5 per hint not drawn / +2 per hint not played / +1 per correct hint / -1 per incorrect hint
So, if you think the game will end soon, you want to play hints instead of drawing them to maximise points.
And so drawing while having at least one hint available mean you don't want the other player to declare. (Using an hint does not said the opposite though.)


Putting a hint block the tile which can't be moved anymore. Which mean if you block a single card which is red/green/blue, the other players will not be able to know what it is during a very long time. So it's very bad.
=== Probabilities: ===
Without the level 2 variant, the main rule is to only lock a card if you got 2+ cards of the next color next to it.
If the hint you want to put is clear on what it is (=at lower level, a hint with only one color), you can lock a single tile on it, especially if it's very early, because it will give lots of early info which is very valuable.


== Example of a 2 player start ==
Let's said your teammate saw 2 tiles, and locked them with red/green hint, if you find
# r: then the pair is 33% r (1/3)
# rg or rrgg: then the pair is 50% r (1/2)
# rr: then the pair is 14% r (1/7)
# rrg: then the pair is 25% r (1/4)
# rrr: then the pair is g (0)
 
=== Example of a game: ===
 
Here is what I advice from the first turn of each player if they get differents tiles:
[[File:Yokai-turn0.jpg]][[File:Yokai-turn2.jpg]][[File:Yokai-turn3.jpg]][[File:Yokai-turn6.jpg]]
 
After that, it gets interresting. On this game:
 
[[File:Yokai-turn7.jpg]]
 
as you can see, we got a blue and a yellow/red hint. This mean you can plan to lock your yellow tile. I would still look at c4 (bottom right of the yellow), then:
 
[[File:Yokai-turn8-1.jpg]]
 
here, peeking at a3 tell immediately that you want to insist on b3 which is good. Note that if that forth tile is green, you can create a green pair and still lock your two yellows, which tell your teammate you got two pairs.
 
[[File:Yokai-turn8-2.jpg]]
 
here, it's totally awkward, you got a pair, so I suggest normally to peek at d4 in case you want to move d4 which still left you with two one away green. But only yellow would be good to move that early. So I will not enforce any move here since lots of move look similar in power level.
 
[[File:Yokai-turn8-3.jpg]]
 
you got the pair yellow/red. The goal is to try to get a yellow or red pair, and then lock it, while creating a space next to your pair and the other color. It's complicated, but I would peek at b4, trying to get a yellow or red, and if I get it, move the green up, and lock the first or third tile peeked (b3 or c4) which will make the hint close to the empty space c3 which will be adjacent to both yellow and red. If that tile is green, you can just create a green pair (b4>e3), and if it's blue again no good move to do.
 
[[File:Yokai-turn8-4.jpg]]
 
finally if it's blue,  nothing good to do, so I suggest to finish that +, and peek at c2.
 
=== Example of a 2 player start (outdated, but still good): ===
 
Here is my personnal start for 2 players if the other player doesn't interfere with what I do and nothing special is going on: https://www.zupimages.net/up/22/07/v4ej.jpg . (it's a great one for effeciency, but far from optimal)


Here is my personnal start for 2 players if the other player doesn't interfere with what I do and nothing special is going on (like a draw of a single red hint while I already know a red): https://www.zupimages.net/up/21/26/1xcz.jpg . (it's a great one for effeciency, but far from optimal)
That start is done to first, have an okay start if you first four peeks are differents (path 100> 80V 46< 11^), that will let you have two pairs next to each other (or one triple) turn 3 all the time.
That start is done to first, have an okay start if you first four peeks are differents (path 100> 80V 46< 11^), that will let you have two pairs next to each other (or one triple) turn 3 all the time.
And it let you turns 3/4/5, check the 'in-between' tiles, which have higher chance to already be next to another color compared to 'simple' start. Since you can very regulary have 2+ moves to do during those turn, that has an higher chance to have cards already good placed.
 
Another interresting path is the 100> 80V 17s. You can see the forth peek is really weird. He is done in prevision of the 11 path. The plan is to regroup the color with the 11 path, but if one of the two first color is seen instead. the plan will completely shift, and isntead of putting a into b, i will put b into a. If you know your teammate is using that kind of reasonning, that can convey lots of informations.
Here is the same document for 2players https://i.ibb.co/tDCSKwV/yokai5-2.jpg done to create two differents '+' for both players. Depending of where the first player center his '+' (c3 usually, sometimes d2), the second player will center his '+' in differents position (usually b1, sometimes c4, rarely b3).

Revision as of 21:10, 8 June 2022

General

This game is about optimizing the moves and informations given in order to win (as fast as possible).

The most important thing to understand is during the early game, the goal is to give informations to others players. More the game advance, and less what you check is important, and more the movement is.

During early game, you want to be obvious in what you did. During late game, you want to be effecient.

Summary:

todo

Peeking:

You usually want to peek (in order of value):

  1. if before your peek you already got a move planned, a tile where certain colors would make that move bad (=peek close to the tile you plan to move)
  2. tiles you can move
  3. tiles not adjacent to any tiles you know
  4. if you search for a tile to move, peek at tiles far from the action. If you search for a tile to lock, peek at tiles close to the action
  5. if a single color hint is available, peek at tiles close to the action to lock it there
  6. if before your second peek, you still got no tile to move, try to peek at a tile you could move which would make that tile close to the action
  7. if you fully optimise, and if you got a move to do before your first or second peek, you can peek at a bad tile (like a tile you can't move) to show to your teammate you already got a pair. In some cases, if you finally don't move your first pair, you will give extra infos

Moving:

You usually want to:

  1. group your pairs to make them be adjacent (for the others players to know you got a pair). You usually got two possibilities to move your pair, try to regroup them close to the action/close to unknown tiles
  2. put low priority on moving tiles which are one or two aways: you got the upside to have the possibilities to 'fill the gap' with the others cards of that type
  3. if you fully optimise and got more than one pair, put more value on moving your latter pair: if your teammates paid close attention to what you peeked at, they can deduce things from your weird second peek (since you already got one pair)

Hints meaning

If a red hint is available, and a red/purple hint is available, you can assume using the red/purple hint for red is straight up bad. That mean you can use red/purple to said it's purple.

For the same reason, if a red/purple/green hint is available, and a red/purple is available, you can use the red/purple/green hint for 100% green.

Furthermore, if a red/purple/green hint is available, and a red/purple/blue hint is available, and no hint has been placed, locking a tile with a three color hint is bad, that don't give much informations. That mean, if you do it anyway, it's because you want to insist in the difference. So red/purple/green would be green, and red/purple/blue would be blue. This work until another hint is drawn.

But, if you got red/purple and red/green available, here you got value of locking some red. So here, the playstyle betweens players are differents, some would assume 100% purple and 100% green, while others would assume more like purple or green (mathematiquely it's at least 66%) but potentially red.

Drawing/Hinting:

Putting a hint block the tile which can't be moved anymore. Which mean you shouldn't lock a single card excentred with color rgb.

You only want to lock at tiles:

  1. where there is at least another tile of the same color nearby
  2. or the color of the card under the hint is known after your hint

Furthermore, locking a single card is not great. You could either never do it, or do it only if:

  1. it's early or sometimes it's late but most of the unknown tiles nearby are on that color, that can happen if you have peek at like 3 or 4 of the same color
  2. the color is known
  3. the card is close to the the action
  4. maybe if your teammate got a timing to use that hint (if a purple hint is available and he didn't used it, that mean he didn't got many purples)

Position of locking:

You usually want to lock your pair or trio in one of the extremity. Usually the tile you didn't move, or if you did an unrelated move, the closer to the action, except if it's confusing. Usually, a locking of an outside extremity mean you got a trio. If you got a pair, and a third tile of that color which is one away of that pair, you usually want to lock the solo tile if the color of the hint is known. If it isn't, that can be confusing, so use at your own risk. Since that hint is really weird, that give extra informations to the other player. In the worst case if he add another identical color in the following turn, you will just have to fill the gap later with one of the two tiles of your pair.

If you fully optimise, you want to lock a tile at the best position. But, you can use the position of the hint to convey extra information. If you got access to a green/red hint, and have 2 red and 1 green, you want to first lock your two reds, but give a place to put a card next to it, which would touch both your pair of red, and your green. That way, whatever card your teammate put next to it, it will be good. So, if you don't respect the previous rule, that for me mean you are in this specific case. And so depending of the move and position of lock done by the you, the other player can deduce differents things.

Points:

+5 per hint not drawn / +2 per hint not played / +1 per correct hint / -1 per incorrect hint So, if you think the game will end soon, you want to play hints instead of drawing them to maximise points. And so drawing while having at least one hint available mean you don't want the other player to declare. (Using an hint does not said the opposite though.)

Probabilities:

Let's said your teammate saw 2 tiles, and locked them with red/green hint, if you find

  1. r: then the pair is 33% r (1/3)
  2. rg or rrgg: then the pair is 50% r (1/2)
  3. rr: then the pair is 14% r (1/7)
  4. rrg: then the pair is 25% r (1/4)
  5. rrr: then the pair is g (0)

Example of a game:

Here is what I advice from the first turn of each player if they get differents tiles: Yokai-turn0.jpgYokai-turn2.jpgYokai-turn3.jpgYokai-turn6.jpg

After that, it gets interresting. On this game:

Yokai-turn7.jpg

as you can see, we got a blue and a yellow/red hint. This mean you can plan to lock your yellow tile. I would still look at c4 (bottom right of the yellow), then:

Yokai-turn8-1.jpg

here, peeking at a3 tell immediately that you want to insist on b3 which is good. Note that if that forth tile is green, you can create a green pair and still lock your two yellows, which tell your teammate you got two pairs.

Yokai-turn8-2.jpg

here, it's totally awkward, you got a pair, so I suggest normally to peek at d4 in case you want to move d4 which still left you with two one away green. But only yellow would be good to move that early. So I will not enforce any move here since lots of move look similar in power level.

Yokai-turn8-3.jpg

you got the pair yellow/red. The goal is to try to get a yellow or red pair, and then lock it, while creating a space next to your pair and the other color. It's complicated, but I would peek at b4, trying to get a yellow or red, and if I get it, move the green up, and lock the first or third tile peeked (b3 or c4) which will make the hint close to the empty space c3 which will be adjacent to both yellow and red. If that tile is green, you can just create a green pair (b4>e3), and if it's blue again no good move to do.

Yokai-turn8-4.jpg

finally if it's blue, nothing good to do, so I suggest to finish that +, and peek at c2.

Example of a 2 player start (outdated, but still good):

Here is my personnal start for 2 players if the other player doesn't interfere with what I do and nothing special is going on: https://www.zupimages.net/up/22/07/v4ej.jpg . (it's a great one for effeciency, but far from optimal)

That start is done to first, have an okay start if you first four peeks are differents (path 100> 80V 46< 11^), that will let you have two pairs next to each other (or one triple) turn 3 all the time.

Here is the same document for 2players https://i.ibb.co/tDCSKwV/yokai5-2.jpg done to create two differents '+' for both players. Depending of where the first player center his '+' (c3 usually, sometimes d2), the second player will center his '+' in differents position (usually b1, sometimes c4, rarely b3).