http://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/api.php?action=feedcontributions&user=Felipe1982&feedformat=atomBoard Game Arena - User contributions [en]2024-03-29T06:12:44ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.39.0http://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_dragonwood&diff=19057Tips dragonwood2023-12-04T10:24:27Z<p>Felipe1982: /* Probability */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Basic Strategy==<br />
* Get useful enhancements such as the Clock of Darkness, Silver Sword, Bucket of Spinach or Ghost Disguise as soon as possible. You will find them useful later.<br />
* After you get 1 or 2 enhancements, you should try to capture as many creatures as possible. Even if the score is low, getting a lot can help you to get the final bonus.<br />
* When the dragon is near (<10 cards left), reload to prepare for it.<br />
* Probability is important! While this is a game of luck, knowing some probability can help you to decide how many cards should be played and which capture method to use.<br />
<br />
==When to Reload?==<br />
* If you have fewer than 4 cards, it is highly suggested to reload.<br />
* If you cannot decide on a good target, reload.<br />
* If you are preparing for an important target (e.g. cloak of darkness or a dragon) but it doesn't appear for now, reload.<br />
<br />
==When to Capture?==<br />
* If you have a nearly full hand, usually you will capture.<br />
* Since the average roll of a dice is 2.5 [Remember each die has 1,2,2,3,3,4], if you have a good combo (half the points needed), capture.<br />
* If an opponent is planning to take a card (and you have a chance to get it), capture.<br />
<br />
==Which Method is the Best?==<br />
* Chances: Getting a 3-card strike with 3 cards is 3.7%, while getting a 3-card scream with 3 cards is 3.2%. However, getting a 2-card stomp with 3 cards is 19.6%--maybe good to aim when the capture value is low!<br />
* Capture Value: For 8 of the landscapes strike has a higher value than scream, for 8 of the landscapes the opposite, and for the rest the same. Therefore they are of equal balance. Stomp usually has a significantly lower number, therefore for some cards it is more appealing.<br />
<br />
==Are Enhancements Good?==<br />
* If the game is going to end soon, surely they are a bad choice. Don't even think about it.<br />
* But at the beginning of the game, you can calculate the potential number of captures to make by (score of creature of same value)/(bonus/1.7).<br />
* For example, for magical unicorn, if you will use it for at least 5 times it is good, otherwise leave it away.<br />
* Overall, enchantments are appealing but not overwhelmingly so.<br />
<br />
==Credits==<br />
This guide is written by ArielFriedrichGauss after about 10 times of playtesting. It is also based on information on https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1628160/some-dragonwood-math<br />
<br />
==Probability==<br />
Dice values are: 1,2,2,3,3,4. The average roll is 2.5. The following table is the probability of getting the row's number, or higher, with the number of dice column:<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+ P(>=X)<br />
! X<br />
! 1 Die<br />
! 2 Dice<br />
! 3 Dice<br />
! 4 Dice<br />
! 5 Dice<br />
|-<br />
! 1<br />
| 100% || 100% || 100% || 100% || 100%<br />
|- <br />
! 2<br />
| 83% || 100% || 100% || 100% || 100%<br />
|- <br />
! 3<br />
| 50% || 97% || 100% || 100% || 100%<br />
|- <br />
! 4<br />
| 17% || 86% || >99% || 100% || 100%<br />
|- <br />
! 5<br />
| 0% || 64% || 97% || >99% || 100%<br />
|- <br />
! 6<br />
| 0% || 36% || 88% || >99% || >99%<br />
|- <br />
! 7<br />
| 0% || 14% || 72% || 97% || >99%<br />
|- <br />
! 8<br />
| 0% || 3% || 50% || 90% || 99%<br />
|- <br />
! 9<br />
| 0% || 0% || 28% || 78% || 97%<br />
|- <br />
! 10<br />
| 0% || 0% || 12% || 60% || 92%<br />
|- <br />
! 11<br />
| 0% || 0% || 3% || 40% || 82%<br />
|- <br />
! 12<br />
| 0% || 0% || <1% || 22% || 68%<br />
|- <br />
! 13<br />
| 0% || 0% || 0% || 10% || 50%<br />
|- <br />
! 14<br />
| 0% || 0% || 0% || 3% || 32%<br />
|- <br />
! 15<br />
| 0% || 0% || 0% || 1% || 18%<br />
|}</div>Felipe1982http://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_dragonwood&diff=19056Tips dragonwood2023-12-04T10:22:37Z<p>Felipe1982: /* When to Reload? */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Basic Strategy==<br />
* Get useful enhancements such as the Clock of Darkness, Silver Sword, Bucket of Spinach or Ghost Disguise as soon as possible. You will find them useful later.<br />
* After you get 1 or 2 enhancements, you should try to capture as many creatures as possible. Even if the score is low, getting a lot can help you to get the final bonus.<br />
* When the dragon is near (<10 cards left), reload to prepare for it.<br />
* Probability is important! While this is a game of luck, knowing some probability can help you to decide how many cards should be played and which capture method to use.<br />
<br />
==When to Reload?==<br />
* If you have fewer than 4 cards, it is highly suggested to reload.<br />
* If you cannot decide on a good target, reload.<br />
* If you are preparing for an important target (e.g. cloak of darkness or a dragon) but it doesn't appear for now, reload.<br />
<br />
==When to Capture?==<br />
* If you have a nearly full hand, usually you will capture.<br />
* Since the average roll of a dice is 2.5 [Remember each die has 1,2,2,3,3,4], if you have a good combo (half the points needed), capture.<br />
* If an opponent is planning to take a card (and you have a chance to get it), capture.<br />
<br />
==Which Method is the Best?==<br />
* Chances: Getting a 3-card strike with 3 cards is 3.7%, while getting a 3-card scream with 3 cards is 3.2%. However, getting a 2-card stomp with 3 cards is 19.6%--maybe good to aim when the capture value is low!<br />
* Capture Value: For 8 of the landscapes strike has a higher value than scream, for 8 of the landscapes the opposite, and for the rest the same. Therefore they are of equal balance. Stomp usually has a significantly lower number, therefore for some cards it is more appealing.<br />
<br />
==Are Enhancements Good?==<br />
* If the game is going to end soon, surely they are a bad choice. Don't even think about it.<br />
* But at the beginning of the game, you can calculate the potential number of captures to make by (score of creature of same value)/(bonus/1.7).<br />
* For example, for magical unicorn, if you will use it for at least 5 times it is good, otherwise leave it away.<br />
* Overall, enchantments are appealing but not overwhelmingly so.<br />
<br />
==Credits==<br />
This guide is written by ArielFriedrichGauss after about 10 times of playtesting. It is also based on information on https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1628160/some-dragonwood-math<br />
<br />
==Probability==<br />
Dice values are: 1,2,2,3,3,4. As mentioned before the average roll is 2.5. The following table is the probability of getting the row's number of higher with the number of dice column:<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
|+ P(>=X)<br />
! X<br />
! 1 Die<br />
! 2 Dice<br />
! 3 Dice<br />
! 4 Dice<br />
! 5 Dice<br />
|-<br />
! 1<br />
| 100% || 100% || 100% || 100% || 100%<br />
|- <br />
! 2<br />
| 83% || 100% || 100% || 100% || 100%<br />
|- <br />
! 3<br />
| 50% || 97% || 100% || 100% || 100%<br />
|- <br />
! 4<br />
| 17% || 86% || >99% || 100% || 100%<br />
|- <br />
! 5<br />
| 0% || 64% || 97% || >99% || 100%<br />
|- <br />
! 6<br />
| 0% || 36% || 88% || >99% || >99%<br />
|- <br />
! 7<br />
| 0% || 14% || 72% || 97% || >99%<br />
|- <br />
! 8<br />
| 0% || 3% || 50% || 90% || 99%<br />
|- <br />
! 9<br />
| 0% || 0% || 28% || 78% || 97%<br />
|- <br />
! 10<br />
| 0% || 0% || 12% || 60% || 92%<br />
|- <br />
! 11<br />
| 0% || 0% || 3% || 40% || 82%<br />
|- <br />
! 12<br />
| 0% || 0% || <1% || 22% || 68%<br />
|- <br />
! 13<br />
| 0% || 0% || 0% || 10% || 50%<br />
|- <br />
! 14<br />
| 0% || 0% || 0% || 3% || 32%<br />
|- <br />
! 15<br />
| 0% || 0% || 0% || 1% || 18%<br />
|}</div>Felipe1982http://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpsoluna&diff=9005Gamehelpsoluna2021-08-03T00:36:55Z<p>Felipe1982: Only the colour of the symbol located on top of each pile is taken into account.</p>
<hr />
<div>Soluna is a simple and fast-playing brain teaser for two players.<br />
<br />
The game consists of twelve double-sided discs; each disc has one of four space-themed symbols (sun, stars, moon, comet) on one side and a different symbol on the other side. At the start of play, the tiles are scattered on the table, creating twelve stacks that are each one tile high. <br />
<br />
<br />
=== Goal ===<br />
The first player to win four rounds wins the game.<br />
<br />
=== Turn summary ===<br />
On a turn, you take one stack and place it on another stack that is either <br />
# Same '''height'''<br />
# Same '''top''' symbol<br />
<br />
Only the colour of the symbol located on top of each pile is taken into account.<br />
<br />
Stacks cannot be divided.<br />
<br />
=== End of the round ===<br />
The round ends when one of the players cannot move anymore piles: this player has lost, and the other player wins the round.</div>Felipe1982http://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpsushigo&diff=8982Gamehelpsushigo2021-08-01T01:34:12Z<p>Felipe1982: /* Variants */</p>
<hr />
<div>== Deck Contents ==<br />
* 14 x Tempura<br />
* 14 x Sashimi<br />
* 14 x Dumpling<br />
* 12 x Maki roll with 2 icons<br />
* 8 x Maki roll with 3 icons<br />
* 6 x Maki roll with 1 icon<br />
* 10 x Salmon Nigiri<br />
* 5 x Squid Nigiri<br />
* 5 x Egg Nigiri<br />
* 10 x Pudding<br />
* 6 x Wasabi<br />
* 4 x Chopsticks<br />
<br />
== Setup ==<br />
The cards are shuffled and dealt as follows, depending on the number of players: <br />
* In a 2 player game, 10 cards are dealt to each player.<br />
* In a 3 player game, 9 cards are dealt to each player.<br />
* In a 4 player game, 8 cards are dealt to each player.<br />
* In a 5 player game, 7 cards are dealt to each player.<br />
Your hand of cards is kept secret to you initially, and the rest of the cards become the draw pile for future rounds.<br />
<br />
== How to play ==<br />
<br />
=== Playing a round ===<br />
The game takes place over 3 rounds, each with multiple turns.<br />
<br />
On each turn, all players simultaneously choose any 1 card from their hands that they would like to keep. When each player has done this, the chosen cards are revealed. The cards you chose will remain in front of you on your sushi belt until the end of the round.<br />
<br />
Your remaining hand is then passed to the player on your left, and you receive a new hand from the player on your right. Your next turn begins with fewer cards to choose from.<br />
<br />
==== Using Wasabi ====<br />
If you choose a squid, salmon or egg nigiri card, and already have a wasabi card in front of you, then this nigiri is placed on top of the wasabi. This shows that the nigiri has been dipped in wasabi and has tripled in value!<br />
<br />
You may have multiple wasabi cards in front of you but only 1 nigiri card may be placed on each wasabi card. You should play the wasabi before the nigiri, for it to triple the value.<br />
<br />
A wasabi without a nigiri scores nothing.<br />
<br />
==== Using Chopsticks ====<br />
If you already have a chopsticks card in front of you, you may take 2 sushi cards on a future turn!<br />
<br />
To use it, you just choose two cards instead of one on your turn. When cards are revealed, call out “Sushi Go!!”<br />
<br />
The chopsticks card is then put back into your hand. This means it will now be passed to the next player, who may take it to use again.<br />
<br />
NOTE: You may have multiple chopsticks cards in front of you but may only use 1 per turn. Any unused chopsticks at the end scores nothing.<br />
<br />
=== Ending a round ===<br />
When there is only one card left in the hand you receive, it will automatically be played with the other cards you have collected. (Often this final card won’t be of much use, but sometimes an unfortunate player will be forced to leave you with something valuable!)<br />
<br />
Now the cards you have collected are scored as follows:<br />
<br />
== Scoring ==<br />
==== Maki Rolls ====<br />
The maki roll icons, at the top of each maki card, are totalled for each player. A maki card may have 1 to 3 icons on it.<br />
<br />
The player with the most icons scores 6 points. If multiple players tie for the most, they split the 6 points evenly (ignoring any remainder) and no second place points are awarded.<br />
<br />
The player with the second most icons scores 3 points. If multiple players tie for second place, they split the points evenly (ignoring any remainder).<br />
<br />
Example: Chris has 5 maki roll icons, Phil has 3, Amy has 3 and Lisa has 2. Chris has the most and so scores 6 points. Phil and Amy tie for second place, and so divide the 3 points between them, scoring 1 point each. Lisa scores nothing.<br />
<br />
==== Tempura ====<br />
A set of 2 tempura cards scores 5 points. A single tempura card is worth nothing. You may score multiple sets of tempura in a round.<br />
<br />
==== Sashimi ====<br />
A set of 3 sashimi cards scores 10 points. A single sashimi card or a set of only 2 is worth nothing. You may score multiple sets of sashimi in a round, although this is very hard to do!<br />
<br />
==== Dumplings ====<br />
The more dumpling cards you have, the more points you will score, as follows:<br />
<pre><br />
Dumplings: 1 2 3 4 5 or more<br />
Points: 1 3 6 10 15<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
==== Nigiri and Wasabi ====<br />
A squid nigiri scores 3 points. If it is on top of a wasabi card it scores 9 points.<br />
<br />
A salmon nigiri scores 2 points.If it is on top of a wasabi card it scores 6 points.<br />
<br />
An egg nigiri scores 1 point.If it is on top of a wasabi card it scores 3 points.<br />
<br />
A wasabi card with no nigiri on it scores nothing.<br />
<br />
==== Chopsticks ====<br />
A chopsticks card scores nothing.<br />
<br />
== Starting the next round ==<br />
Cards from the previous round are discarded, except for puddings cards which are kept in your fridge to be scored at the end of the game.<br />
<br />
Players are dealt a new hand of cards from the draw pile.<br />
<br />
== Ending the game ==<br />
The game ends after round 3. Sushi cards are scored the same as in rounds 1 and 2, and the pudding cards are now also scored.<br />
<br />
==== Puddings ====<br />
The player with the most pudding cards scores 6 points. If multiple players tie for the most, they split the points evenly (ignoring any remainder).<br />
<br />
The player with the fewest pudding cards (including players with none) loses 6 points. If multiple players tie for the least, they split the lost points evenly (ignoring any remainder).<br />
<br />
Example: Chris has 4 pudding cards, Phil has 3 and Lisa and Amy each have 0. Chris has the most and so scores 6 points. Lisa and Amy tie for the least and so divide the lost 6 points between them, each losing 3 points.<br />
<br />
On the rare occasion that all players have the same number of pudding cards, no one scores anything for them.<br />
<br />
NOTE: In a 2 player game, no one loses any points for puddings. Only the points for most pudding cards are awarded.<br />
<br />
== And the winner is... ==<br />
The player with the most points after 3 rounds is the winner. In case of a tie, whoever has the most pudding cards wins!<br />
<br />
==Variants==<br />
* Pass both ways: Players pass cards anticlockwise in the second round.<br />
* Soy sauce: If you have the most colours, you score 4 points. Only 1 soy sauce may be scored each round.<br />
===TWO-PLAYER VARIANT===<br />
This variant features a third “dummy” player that alternates between players.<br />
<br />
- Deal 3 players worth of cards (3 hands of 9).<br />
- Put the dummy player’s cards face down between you as a draw pile.<br />
- Choose one player to be the first to control the dummy player.<br />
- When you’re in control, draw the top card from the dummy pile and add it to your hand.<br />
<br />
then choose 1 card for yourself and 1 for the dummy player.<br />
<br />
(Your opponent plays 1 card as normal.)<br />
<br />
• Reveal cards and then switch hands, leaving the dummy pile in place.<br />
• Now your opponent controls the dummy player by drawing from the pile and then choosing 1 for themself and 1 for the dummy.<br />
• Take turns controlling the dummy pile until all cards are played out.<br />
• Play 3 rounds as described above, scoring as per normal rules.</div>Felipe1982http://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpmurusgallicus&diff=8980Gamehelpmurusgallicus2021-07-31T19:52:42Z<p>Felipe1982: /* A player wins by */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Rules==<br />
<br />
<br />
On a player’s turn, the active player must perform one of the following two actions:<br />
<br />
1. Distribute a stack of two owned pieces onto the two nearest squares in any one orthogonal or diagonal direction. Each destination square must be empty or contain a single owned piece (singleton). This implies that distribution is blocked by the edge of the game board, the presence of an opponent piece, or any stack, including owned stacks! Note that the distribution onto owned singletons creates new stacks. Stack size is limited to two. Stacks never consist of opposing pieces.<br />
<br />
2. Sacrifice a piece from an owned stack to remove any one orthogonally or diagonally adjacent opponent singleton from the board. Sacrifice cannot be used to reduce opponent stacks to singletons. Sacrifice is not forced by the mere presence of an opponent’s singleton.<br />
<br />
If at the start of a turn, a player cannot perform either action, the player is stalemated.<br />
<br />
==A player wins by==<br />
<br />
- breakthrough, distributing a piece in the opponent’s home row , or<br />
<br />
- stalemate, leaving the opponent with no moves or sacrifices.</div>Felipe1982http://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpmurusgallicus&diff=8979Gamehelpmurusgallicus2021-07-31T19:52:07Z<p>Felipe1982: /* Rules */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Rules==<br />
<br />
<br />
On a player’s turn, the active player must perform one of the following two actions:<br />
<br />
1. Distribute a stack of two owned pieces onto the two nearest squares in any one orthogonal or diagonal direction. Each destination square must be empty or contain a single owned piece (singleton). This implies that distribution is blocked by the edge of the game board, the presence of an opponent piece, or any stack, including owned stacks! Note that the distribution onto owned singletons creates new stacks. Stack size is limited to two. Stacks never consist of opposing pieces.<br />
<br />
2. Sacrifice a piece from an owned stack to remove any one orthogonally or diagonally adjacent opponent singleton from the board. Sacrifice cannot be used to reduce opponent stacks to singletons. Sacrifice is not forced by the mere presence of an opponent’s singleton.<br />
<br />
If at the start of a turn, a player cannot perform either action, the player is stalemated.<br />
<br />
==A player wins by==<br />
<br />
<br />
* breakthrough, distributing a piece in the opponent’s home row , or<br />
* stalemate, leaving the opponent with no moves or sacrifices.</div>Felipe1982http://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpmurusgallicus&diff=8970Gamehelpmurusgallicus2021-07-30T21:13:02Z<p>Felipe1982: </p>
<hr />
<div>==Rules==<br />
<br />
<br />
On a player’s turn, the active player must perform one of the following two actions:<br />
<br />
1. Distribute a stack of two owned pieces onto the two nearest squares in any one orthogonal or diagonal direction. Each destination square must be empty or contain a single owned piece (singleton). This implies that distribution is blocked by the edge of the game board, the presence of an opponent piece, or any stack, including owned stacks! Note that the distribution onto owned singletons creates new stacks. Stack size is limited to two. Stacks never consist of opposing pieces.<br />
2. Sacrifice a piece from an owned stack to remove any one orthogonally or diagonally adjacent opponent singleton from the board. Sacrifice cannot be used to reduce opponent stacks to singletons. Sacrifice is not forced by the mere presence of an opponent’s singleton.<br />
<br />
If at the start of a turn, a player cannot perform either action, the player is stalemated.<br />
<br />
==A player wins by==<br />
<br />
<br />
* breakthrough, distributing a piece in the opponent’s home row , or<br />
* stalemate, leaving the opponent with no moves or sacrifices.</div>Felipe1982http://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpmurusgallicus&diff=8949Gamehelpmurusgallicus2021-07-28T03:15:40Z<p>Felipe1982: Created page with "=Rules= On a player’s turn, the active player must perform one of the following two actions: # Distribute a stack of two owned pieces onto the two nearest squares in any..."</p>
<hr />
<div>=Rules=<br />
<br />
<br />
On a player’s turn, the active player must perform one of the following two actions:<br />
<br />
# Distribute a stack of two owned pieces onto the two nearest squares in any one orthogonal or diagonal direction. Each destination square must be empty or contain a single owned piece (singleton). This implies that distribution is blocked by the edge of the game board, the presence of an opponent piece, or any stack, including owned stacks! Note that the distribution onto owned singletons creates new stacks. Stack size is limited to two. Stacks never consist of opposing pieces.<br />
# Sacrifice a piece from an owned stack to remove any one orthogonally or diagonally adjacent opponent singleton from the board. Sacrifice cannot be used to reduce opponent stacks to singletons. Sacrifice is not forced by the mere presence of an opponent’s singleton.<br />
<br />
If at the start of a turn, a player cannot perform either action, the player is stalemated.<br />
<br />
=A player wins by=<br />
<br />
<br />
* breakthrough, distributing a piece in the opponent’s home row , or<br />
* stalemate, leaving the opponent with no moves or sacrifices.</div>Felipe1982http://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_senet&diff=8899Tips senet2021-07-22T06:52:35Z<p>Felipe1982: </p>
<hr />
<div>==Throwing of Sticks==<br />
The chances of getting every number (1-5) is actually different. Some beginners have the misunderstanding that their probability is all 1/5.<br />
<br />
* Chances of throwing 1: 1/4 25%<br />
* Chances of throwing 2: 3/8 37.5%<br />
* Chances of throwing 3: 1/4 25%<br />
* Chances of throwing 4: 1/16 6.25%<br />
* Chances of throwing 5: 1/16 6.25%<br />
<br />
==What if you drowned?==<br />
That's bad! But should you return or not?<br />
<br />
If you have only one stone left, of course not. Getting back from field 15 costs u more time actually than attempting to escape.<br />
<br />
But if you have at least 3 stones, it is better to return than to drown for several turns.</div>Felipe1982http://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_grandbazaar&diff=8747Tips grandbazaar2021-07-08T04:53:24Z<p>Felipe1982: change can not to cannot</p>
<hr />
<div>Buy Low. Sell High.<br />
<br />
remember these three core rules:<br />
* Players must buy at least one jewel each round, but they are not obliged to sell<br />
* Players cannot buy and sell same jewel type in the same round<br />
* Players can never have more than 4 jewels in hand. If they start their turn with 4 jewels they must sell some jewels before perform the required buy</div>Felipe1982http://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpgrandbazaar&diff=8744Gamehelpgrandbazaar2021-07-08T01:57:40Z<p>Felipe1982: replace "can not" with "cannot"</p>
<hr />
<div><br />
==Goal==<br />
<br />
Earn more money than your opponents trading jewels in the bazaar. You can trade with 3 types of jewels: sapphires, rubies and emeralds. But be careful, because the prices change every round!<br />
<br />
==How to play==<br />
<br />
Each player starts with 30 grands (the currency of the game) and no jewels in hand.<br />
<br />
The game consists of 27 rounds and each round has two phases:<br />
* Update bazaar prices<br />
* Trade jewels<br />
<br />
===Update bazaar prices===<br />
<br />
Players reveal the first Prices Card of the deck, then update the prices board according to the increments/decrements shown on the card by moving the meeples. These will be the jewels prices until the end of the round.<br />
<br />
For each jewel type there are 9 Prices Cards incrementing their price (with a +1), 9 decrementing it (with a -1) and 9 without change (with a 0).<br />
<br />
===Trade jewels===<br />
<br />
The first player of the current round buys and/or sells all jewels they desire. Then other players, in clockwise order, take turns to make their tradings.<br />
<br />
To trade jewels players must follow certain rules:<br />
* To buy jewels take them from the bazaar paying their current market price<br />
* To sell jewels return them to the bazaar earning their current market price<br />
* Players cannot buy jewels they cannot pay, as well as they cannot buy jewels not available in the bazaar<br />
* Players <b>must</b> buy at least one jewel each round, but they are not obliged to sell<br />
* Players cannot buy and sell same jewel type in the same round<br />
* Players can <b>never</b> have more than 4 jewels in hand. If they start their turn with 4 jewels they must sell some jewels before perform the required buy<br />
<br />
===End of the round===<br />
<br />
After all the players have taken their turn to trade the round ends. The player on the left of the first player is the first player of the next round. Play rounds until the last Prices Card is revealed.<br />
<br />
==End of the game==<br />
<br />
The game ends when the last Prices Card is revealed. All jewels price are 10 grands again and all players sell their remaining jewels at this price.<br />
<br />
The player with most money wins. In case of tie, all the tied players share the victory.</div>Felipe1982http://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelptichu&diff=8743Gamehelptichu2021-07-08T01:54:24Z<p>Felipe1982: show the points for each of the Special Cards</p>
<hr />
<div>===Gameplay===<br />
<br />
Each player sits across from their teammate so that play alternates between the two teams.<br />
<br />
The game is played with a deck of 56 cards, consisting of a 52-card deck of four suits (Jade, Sword, Pagoda, Star) plus four special cards (Mah Jong, Dog, Phoenix, Dragon). A standard 52-card deck with 4 jokers (marked to indicate the special cards) can also be used.<br />
<br />
Each player is dealt eight cards and may call "Grand Tichu," a 200-point bet that he (not his partner) will be the first to get rid of his cards. Once players have decided whether to make this call, six more cards are dealt (the remaining cards in the deck) and players may no longer declare "Grand Tichu." Now, and at any time prior to playing his/her first card, a player may call "Tichu," a 100-point bet that he (not his partner) will be the first to get rid of his cards. The differences between Grand Tichu and Tichu are when they may be called, the number of cards you've seen, and the number of points involved.<br />
<br />
All players prepare three cards for simultaneous exchange, with each player passing one card to each of the other players—one to each opponent and one to the partner. Should a player declare "Tichu" before the simultaneous exchange, players are allowed to change their out-going exchange cards.<br />
<br />
After the card exchange, the player with the Mah Jong card leads the first trick. In Tichu, playable card combinations are generally based on Poker hands, with some exceptions. A player may pass on a trick with the option to play in later, and a trick is completed if it is passed three times in a row.<br />
<br />
====Playable card combinations====<br />
<br />
*A Single card<br />
*A Pair (equal cards)<br />
*A Sequence of pairs of adjacent values<br />
*A Triple<br />
*A Full House (triple + pair)<br />
*A Run at least five cards long<br />
<br />
'''Bombs'''<br />
<br />
Bomb are special combinations which will beat any card combination with the exception of a bigger bomb. Bombs may be played at any time (even out of turn) to end a trick, with every player given a chance to play bigger bombs before the trick is taken.<br />
<br />
Bomb combinations:<br />
* Four of a kind<br />
* A straight flush of at least five cards<br />
<br />
====Special Cards====<br />
'''The Mah Jong''' The player with the Mah Jong leads the opening trick, but is not required to play Mah Jong in the trick. The Mah Jong may be played as a 1, either by itself or in straight. When the Mah Jong is played, you may make a "Wish" (request a card number 2-A). The wish remains active until it is fulfilled. Any player that does not have the card value asked for, or cannot play it, can then play any suitable card or pass. This wish remains in effect until someone fulfills it. Mah Jong is worth 0 points.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''The Dog''' has no numeric value, and cannot be played in a trick. The Dog must be played as the lead card, and passes the lead to your partner. If your partner is out, play passes to the active player after your partner's position. It is not possible to steal the lead in any way, as such, bombing the dog is not allowed. A Dog is worth 0 points.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''The Phoenix''' may be played alone as .5 higher than the previous card played (i.e. after A, Phoenix is played as A.5), or as a wild card in a combination (with a value from 2-A). The Phoenix cannot be included as a wild card in a bomb, is not a wild card as a single play, has only a value of 1.5 when played as lead, and it doesn't count as .5 higher when used in a straight. The Phoenix is worth negative 25 points.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''The Dragon''' is the strongest card and may only be played in a single card trick. The player wins the trick unless the Dragon is bombed. If the trick is won with the Dragon, the trick is given to your opponent (you choose which one). Furthermore, if the dragon is bombed, the player who played the largest bomb on the trick takes the entire trick for themselves (which includes the dragon). Furthermore, it is impossible to use the dragon in order to win the dog. The Dragon is worth 25 points.<br />
<br />
===Round End and Scoring===<br />
A round ends when only one player is left with cards<br />
<br />
Teams gain or deduct points for Grand Tichu (±200 points) and/or Tichu (±100 points) calls.<br />
<br />
If both players on a team get rid of all their cards before either player on the opposing team is out of cards, the winning team scores 200 points and there is no card scoring this round.<br />
<br />
The last player out gives their remaining cards to the opposing team and gives all the tricks they have won this round to the first player out.<br />
<br />
Points are scored based on the cards in the tricks won by each team. Kings and tens are worth ten points each, fives are worth five points, the Dragon is worth 25 points, and the Phoenix is worth negative 25. All other cards score zero.</div>Felipe1982http://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpdungeonroll&diff=8714Gamehelpdungeonroll2021-07-06T03:08:14Z<p>Felipe1982: colourize the companion texts</p>
<hr />
<div>==Objective==<br />
The objective of the game is to use your companions to gain experience by exploring dungeons and fighting monsters. The game consists of 3 delves.<br />
<br />
==Player's Turn==<br />
The adventurer rolls all 7 party dice to determine their companions.<br />
<br />
===Monster Phase===<br />
* Only active Party dice may be used, never Party dice in the Graveyard.<br />
* When used, Party dice are first placed into the Graveyward, and then their effects are carried out.<br />
* Roll a number of dungeon dice equals to the level (up to 10) as the monsters.<br />
* Set aside all dragons: they cannot be rerolled.<br />
* The adventurer can use a scroll to reroll any number of party and/or dungeon dice.<br />
** Tip: when using a scroll or fighting monsters, the adventurer must first move all dice they want to use to the Playing Area (dungeon dice and party dice).<br />
* The adventurer uses their companions to fight monsters. Companion dice are moved to the graveyard after use.<br />
* The adventurer can use their hero's specialty (multiple uses per delve) or their ultimate ability (one use per delve).<br />
* If the monsters are defeated, proceed to the loot phase. Otherwise, the adventurer flees and gain no experience (but keeps any treasure tokens they have).<br />
* Dungeon dice are returned to the available pool when defeated or discarded.<br />
<br />
<br />
===Loot Phase===<br />
* A thief or a champion can be used to open any number of chests. Other companion types can only open a single chest.<br />
* The adventurer gets a treasure for each opened chest. If there are no treasures left, use an experience as a replacement.<br />
* Any party dice can be used to quaff any number of potions. A potion can revive a companion with its face chosen by the adventurer.<br />
<br />
===Dragon Phase===<br />
* When there are 3 or more dragon dice in the lair, the Dragon arrives and attacks the adventurer.<br />
* A dragon needs 3 different types of companions (die faces not including scrolls) to be defeated (except with certain special abilities). Hero abilities that allow one type of companion to act as another allow two dice showing the same die face to be counted as two different types of companions.<br />
* If the dragon is not defeated, the adventurer flees and gain no experience (but keeps any treasure tokens).<br />
* If the dragon is defeated, the adventurer gains a treasure token and 1 experience.<br />
<br />
===Regroup Phase===<br />
* The adventurer can choose between retire to the tavern or seek glory.<br />
* If the adventurer chooses to retire, they collect the number of experience as the level just completed. The current delve is over.<br />
* If the adventurer chooses to seek glory, they move on to the next level with all remaining active dice and any treasure tokens. The number of dungeon dice increases by 1 for the new level (Level 1 uses 1 dungeon die, Level 2 uses 2 dungeon dice, etc).<br />
* After completing Level 10, the adventurer has cleared the entire dungeon and must retire.<br />
<br />
==Party Dice==<br />
===Companion Types===<br />
* A <span style="color:#2e328d"><b>mage</b></span> (blue wizard's hat icon) can open a single chest, defeat a goblin, a skeleton, or any number of oozes.<br />
* A <span style="color:#6d6d71"><b>cleric</b></span> (grey hammer with halo icon) can open a single chest, defeat a goblin, an ooze, or any number of skeletons.<br />
* A <span style="color:#71b590"><b>fighter</b></span> (green crossed swords icon) can open a single chest, defeat a skeleton, an ooze, or any number of goblins.<br />
* A <span style="color:#7e3c6f"><b>thief</b></span> (purple eye mask icon) can only defeat a single monster, but can open any number of chests.<br />
* A <span style="color:#d6ce44"><b>champion</b></span> (yellow winged helmet icon) can defeat any number of monsters of a single type or open any number of chests.<br />
<br />
<br />
All die faces allow any number of potions to be quaffed.<br />
* The scroll (orange icon) is the sixth party die face and allows any number of Monster (except dragon faces) and Party dice to be rerolled.<br />
<br />
<br />
===Summary===<br />
* Mages specialize fighting against oozes (magical enemies)<br />
* Clerics specialize fighting against skeletons (undead enemies)<br />
* Fighters specialize fighting against goblins (physical enemies)<br />
* Thieves specialize opening chests (loot)<br />
* Champions can do it all, but the party cannot defeat a Dragon without help from other companion types<br />
<br />
==Treasures==<br />
Treasures tokens are collected by opening chests and defeating dragons. Treasures are kept for future delves even if the adventurer has to flee the dungeon. Each treasure token can be used only once per game and there are a certain number of them available per game. In the rare case that all treasure tokens have been collected in a game, then 1 experience point is awarded to the adventurer opening a chest instead of a token. At the end of the game, unused treasure tokens are worth 1 experience point each unless specified.<br />
<br />
* (3) Vorpal Sword (green sword icon): Use as a fighter companion.<br />
<br />
* (3) Talisman (grey skull necklace icon): Use as a cleric companion.<br />
<br />
* (3) Scepter of Power (blue flaming eye icon: Use as a mage companion.<br />
<br />
* (3) Thieves' Tools (purple dagger & lockpicks icon): Use as a thief companion.<br />
<br />
* (3) Scroll (orange scroll icon): Use as a scroll.<br />
<br />
* (4) Ring of Invisibility (orange ring icon): Evade an attacking dragon (discarding all dragon dice and ending the phase), but do not collect any treasures.<br />
<br />
* (6) Dragon Scales (yellow scale/shield icon): Each pair of scales is worth 2 additional experience points.<br />
<br />
* (3) Elixir (orange flask with stopper icon): Use as a potion.<br />
<br />
* (4) Dragon Bait (red meat icon): Transform all monster die faces to dragon die faces, and move them to the dragon's lair.<br />
<br />
* (4) Town Portal (cyan circle with townscape icon): Use instead of fleeing (when unable to defeat monsters or dragons) in order to still collect experience points equal to the level. If unused at the end of the game it is worth 2 points instead of 1.<br />
<br />
==Hero Powers==<br />
Heros are avatars that represents adventurers. All heros (except Hero Pack 2) begin the game on its novice side, and is flipped to the master side when 5 experiences is gained. Each hero has a specialty (use as many times as you like) and ultimate ability (usable once per delve).<br />
<br />
<br />
===Basic Heroes===<br />
* Crusader/Paladin: Fighters and clerics used as each other (specialty), used as a fighter or cleric (novice ultimate), discard a treasure to defeat all monsters, open all chests, quaff all potions and discard all dragons (master ultimate)<br />
<br />
* Enchantress/Beguiler: Scrolls used as any companion (specialty), transform a monster to a potion (novice ultimate), transform 2 monsters to a potion (master ultimate)<br />
<br />
* Half-Goblin/Chieftain: Open chests and quaff potions at any time (specialty), transform a goblin to thief (novice ultimate), transform 2 goblins to thieves (master ultimate)<br />
<br />
* Knight/Dragon Slayer: Scrolls become champions (novice specialty), novice and 1 less dice used to defeat a dragon (master specialty), transform all monster to dragons (ultimate)<br />
<br />
* Mercenary/Commander: Reroll any number of dice when forming the party (novice specialty), fighters defeat 1 extra monster (master specialty), defeat up to 2 monsters (novice ultimate), reroll any number of party and dungeon dice (master ultimate)<br />
<br />
* Minstrel/Bard: Thieves and mages used as each other (novice specialty), novice and champions defeat 1 extra monster (master specialty), discard all dragons (ultimate)<br />
<br />
* Occultist/Necromancer: Clerics and mages used as each other (specialty), transform a skeleton to fighter (novice ultimate), transform 2 skeletons to fighters (master ultimate)<br />
<br />
* Spellsword/Battlemage: Fighters and mages used as each other (specialty), used as a fighter or mage (novice ultimate), discard all dice in dragon's lair (master ultimate)<br />
<br />
<br />
===Hero Pack 1===<br />
* Alchemist/Thaumaturge: Chests become potions (specialty), revive a companion (novice ultimate), revive 2 companions (master ultimate)<br />
<br />
* Archaeologist/Tomb Raider: Draw 2 treasure when forming the party and discard 6 treasrues in the end (specialty), draw and discard 2 treasures (novice ultimate), draw 2 treasures and discard 1 (master ultimate)<br />
<br />
* Dwarf/Berkerser: Start with 5 dice and reroll when champion defeats 2+ monsters (specialty), discard 1 monster for each champion and reroll all champions (novice ultimate), revive 4 companions but cannot retire unless defeating a dragon (master ultimate)<br />
<br />
* Leprechaun/Clurichaun: All poisons become chests but all treasures are discarded (specialty), transform 1 monster into a chest (novice ultimate), transform 2 monsters into a chest (master ultimate)<br />
<br />
* Scout/Dungeoneer: Assign dungeon dice to level 1-3 (specialty), reduce 1 level and retire immediately (novice ultimate), retire immediately (master ultimate)<br />
<br />
* Sorceress/Drake Kin: Discard all dragons when more than 3 (specialty), discard 1 monster for each dragon (novice ultimate), discard 1 type of monster for each dragon (master ultimate)<br />
<br />
* Tracker/Ranger: Reroll 1 goblin once per level (specialty), discard 1 monster of any type (novice ultimate), discard 1 monster of each type (master ultimate)<br />
<br />
* Viking/Undead Viking: Take 5 champions instead of rolling (novice specialty), novice + all skeletons becomes potions (master specialty), discard all dragon dice (ultimate)<br />
<br />
<br />
===Promo===<br />
* Guild Leader/Guild Master: Start with 8 dice (specialty), set 1 party/dungeon dice (novice ultimate), set 1 party and dungeon dice (master ultimate)<br />
<br />
* Time Traveller/Time Lady: Set 1 dice of each type and 1 champion (specialty), discard 1 treasure to defeat a dragon (novice ultimate), discard 1 treasure or scroll to defeat a dragon (master ultimate)<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
! width=50% | Guild Leader<br />
! width=50% | Guild Master<br />
|-<br />
|Novice Specialty - When forming the party, roll 8 party dice instead of 7.<br />
|Master Specialty - When forming the party, roll 8 party dice instead of 7.<br />
|-<br />
|Novice Ultimate - Calling in a Favor: Set 1 party die OR 1 dungeon die to any face.<br />
|Master Ultimate - Reinforcements: Set 1 party die AND 1 dungeon die to any face.<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
! width=50% | Time Traveller<br />
! width=50% | Time Lady<br />
|-<br />
|Novice Specialty - When forming the party, instead of rolling, set each of the die faces so you have one each of cleric, fighter, mage, thief, and scroll plus two champions.<br />
|Master Specialty - When forming the party, instead of rolling, set each of the die faces so you have one each of cleric, fighter, mage, thief, and scroll plus two champions.<br />
|-<br />
|Novice Ultimate - Future Technology: Discard one of your treasures to defeat a Dragon.<br />
|Master Ultimate - Super-sonic Future Technology: Discard one of your treasures or a scroll to defeat a Dragon.<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===Hero Pack 2===<br />
* Alexandra, Keeper of Knowledge: Scrolls used as champions and any companion used as scrolls (specialty), discard 1 scroll to defeat a dragon (ultimate)<br />
<br />
* Amar-Suen, King of the Ancients: Thieves defeat 1 additional monster (specialty), discard all monsters of 1 type and draw 1 treasure per discarded monster (ultimate)<br />
<br />
* Cassandra, the Cursed: Begin each delve exhausted and all companions defeat 1 extra monster when exhausted. When quaffing potions, refresh (specialty), discard 1 potion or 1 chest (ultimate)<br />
<br />
* Lord Yllavyre, Dragon Lord: Set 2 dice to scrolls and discard a scroll to turn a monster to dragon, refresh when facing 3 types (specialty), all dragons become companions and defeat 1 monster or open 1 chest (ultimate)<br />
<br />
* Marpesia, Amazon Queen: Requires 4 dices to summon the dragon and champions kill 1 monster or open 1 chest (specialty), roll all dice from the graveyard, discard scrolls and add the rest to your party (ultimate)<br />
<br />
* Szopin, Infamous Warlord: Refresh when defeating 2+ monsters with 1 companion (specialty), discard 2 dungeon dice (ultimate)<br />
<br />
* Tou'lak, Minotaur Chieftain: May reroll 1 monster each level (specialty), discard all monsters (ultimate)<br />
<br />
* Tristan, Lone Mercenary: Draw 1 treasure when defeating 2+ monsters with 1 companion, use 1 treasure to refresh (specialty), reroll any number of dungeon dice (ultimate)<br />
<br />
==End of Game==<br />
The game ends after each player has had 3 delves. The player with the highest total experience is the winner! In the case of a tie, the tied player with the fewest treasure tokens is the winner. If still tied, the tied players rejoice in a shared victory.<br />
<br />
When playing with solo mode. Play three rounds with the normal rules and go for the best score. Ranking of scores is as follows:<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
! width=30% | Points<br />
! width=50% | Title<br />
|-<br />
|0-15<br />
|Dragon fodder<br />
|-<br />
|16-23<br />
|Village Hero<br />
|-<br />
|24-29<br />
|Seasoned Explorer<br />
|-<br />
|30-34<br />
|Champion<br />
|-<br />
|35+<br />
|Hero of Ages<br />
|}</div>Felipe1982http://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Gamehelpdungeonroll&diff=8713Gamehelpdungeonroll2021-07-06T02:54:02Z<p>Felipe1982: indicated to players that each die is moved to graveyard when it takes an action.</p>
<hr />
<div>==Objective==<br />
The objective of the game is to use your companions to gain experience by exploring dungeons and fighting monsters. The game consists of 3 delves.<br />
<br />
==Player's Turn==<br />
The adventurer rolls all 7 party dice to determine their companions.<br />
<br />
===Monster Phase===<br />
* Only active Party dice may be used, never Party dice in the Graveyard.<br />
* When used, Party dice are first placed into the Graveyward, and then their effects are carried out.<br />
* Roll a number of dungeon dice equals to the level (up to 10) as the monsters.<br />
* Set aside all dragons: they cannot be rerolled.<br />
* The adventurer can use a scroll to reroll any number of party and/or dungeon dice.<br />
** Tip: when using a scroll or fighting monsters, the adventurer must first move all dice they want to use to the Playing Area (dungeon dice and party dice).<br />
* The adventurer uses their companions to fight monsters. Companion dice are moved to the graveyard after use.<br />
* The adventurer can use their hero's specialty (multiple uses per delve) or their ultimate ability (one use per delve).<br />
* If the monsters are defeated, proceed to the loot phase. Otherwise, the adventurer flees and gain no experience (but keeps any treasure tokens they have).<br />
* Dungeon dice are returned to the available pool when defeated or discarded.<br />
<br />
<br />
===Loot Phase===<br />
* A thief or a champion can be used to open any number of chests. Other companion types can only open a single chest.<br />
* The adventurer gets a treasure for each opened chest. If there are no treasures left, use an experience as a replacement.<br />
* Any party dice can be used to quaff any number of potions. A potion can revive a companion with its face chosen by the adventurer.<br />
<br />
===Dragon Phase===<br />
* When there are 3 or more dragon dice in the lair, the Dragon arrives and attacks the adventurer.<br />
* A dragon needs 3 different types of companions (die faces not including scrolls) to be defeated (except with certain special abilities). Hero abilities that allow one type of companion to act as another allow two dice showing the same die face to be counted as two different types of companions.<br />
* If the dragon is not defeated, the adventurer flees and gain no experience (but keeps any treasure tokens).<br />
* If the dragon is defeated, the adventurer gains a treasure token and 1 experience.<br />
<br />
===Regroup Phase===<br />
* The adventurer can choose between retire to the tavern or seek glory.<br />
* If the adventurer chooses to retire, they collect the number of experience as the level just completed. The current delve is over.<br />
* If the adventurer chooses to seek glory, they move on to the next level with all remaining active dice and any treasure tokens. The number of dungeon dice increases by 1 for the new level (Level 1 uses 1 dungeon die, Level 2 uses 2 dungeon dice, etc).<br />
* After completing Level 10, the adventurer has cleared the entire dungeon and must retire.<br />
<br />
==Party Dice==<br />
===Companion Types===<br />
* A mage (blue wizard's hat icon) can open a single chest, defeat a goblin, a skeleton, or any number of oozes.<br />
* A cleric (grey hammer with halo icon) can open a single chest, defeat a goblin, an ooze, or any number of skeletons.<br />
* A fighter (green crossed swords icon) can open a single chest, defeat a skeleton, an ooze, or any number of goblins.<br />
* A thief (purple eye mask icon) can only defeat a single monster, but can open any number of chests.<br />
* A champion (yellow winged helmet icon) can defeat any number of monsters of a single type or open any number of chests.<br />
<br />
<br />
All die faces allow any number of potions to be quaffed.<br />
* The scroll (orange icon) is the sixth party die face and allows any number of Monster (except dragon faces) and Party dice to be rerolled.<br />
<br />
<br />
===Summary===<br />
* Mages specialize fighting against oozes (magical enemies)<br />
* Clerics specialize fighting against skeletons (undead enemies)<br />
* Fighters specialize fighting against goblins (physical enemies)<br />
* Thieves specialize opening chests (loot)<br />
* Champions can do it all, but the party cannot defeat a Dragon without help from other companion types<br />
<br />
==Treasures==<br />
Treasures tokens are collected by opening chests and defeating dragons. Treasures are kept for future delves even if the adventurer has to flee the dungeon. Each treasure token can be used only once per game and there are a certain number of them available per game. In the rare case that all treasure tokens have been collected in a game, then 1 experience point is awarded to the adventurer opening a chest instead of a token. At the end of the game, unused treasure tokens are worth 1 experience point each unless specified.<br />
<br />
* (3) Vorpal Sword (green sword icon): Use as a fighter companion.<br />
<br />
* (3) Talisman (grey skull necklace icon): Use as a cleric companion.<br />
<br />
* (3) Scepter of Power (blue flaming eye icon: Use as a mage companion.<br />
<br />
* (3) Thieves' Tools (purple dagger & lockpicks icon): Use as a thief companion.<br />
<br />
* (3) Scroll (orange scroll icon): Use as a scroll.<br />
<br />
* (4) Ring of Invisibility (orange ring icon): Evade an attacking dragon (discarding all dragon dice and ending the phase), but do not collect any treasures.<br />
<br />
* (6) Dragon Scales (yellow scale/shield icon): Each pair of scales is worth 2 additional experience points.<br />
<br />
* (3) Elixir (orange flask with stopper icon): Use as a potion.<br />
<br />
* (4) Dragon Bait (red meat icon): Transform all monster die faces to dragon die faces, and move them to the dragon's lair.<br />
<br />
* (4) Town Portal (cyan circle with townscape icon): Use instead of fleeing (when unable to defeat monsters or dragons) in order to still collect experience points equal to the level. If unused at the end of the game it is worth 2 points instead of 1.<br />
<br />
==Hero Powers==<br />
Heros are avatars that represents adventurers. All heros (except Hero Pack 2) begin the game on its novice side, and is flipped to the master side when 5 experiences is gained. Each hero has a specialty (use as many times as you like) and ultimate ability (usable once per delve).<br />
<br />
<br />
===Basic Heroes===<br />
* Crusader/Paladin: Fighters and clerics used as each other (specialty), used as a fighter or cleric (novice ultimate), discard a treasure to defeat all monsters, open all chests, quaff all potions and discard all dragons (master ultimate)<br />
<br />
* Enchantress/Beguiler: Scrolls used as any companion (specialty), transform a monster to a potion (novice ultimate), transform 2 monsters to a potion (master ultimate)<br />
<br />
* Half-Goblin/Chieftain: Open chests and quaff potions at any time (specialty), transform a goblin to thief (novice ultimate), transform 2 goblins to thieves (master ultimate)<br />
<br />
* Knight/Dragon Slayer: Scrolls become champions (novice specialty), novice and 1 less dice used to defeat a dragon (master specialty), transform all monster to dragons (ultimate)<br />
<br />
* Mercenary/Commander: Reroll any number of dice when forming the party (novice specialty), fighters defeat 1 extra monster (master specialty), defeat up to 2 monsters (novice ultimate), reroll any number of party and dungeon dice (master ultimate)<br />
<br />
* Minstrel/Bard: Thieves and mages used as each other (novice specialty), novice and champions defeat 1 extra monster (master specialty), discard all dragons (ultimate)<br />
<br />
* Occultist/Necromancer: Clerics and mages used as each other (specialty), transform a skeleton to fighter (novice ultimate), transform 2 skeletons to fighters (master ultimate)<br />
<br />
* Spellsword/Battlemage: Fighters and mages used as each other (specialty), used as a fighter or mage (novice ultimate), discard all dice in dragon's lair (master ultimate)<br />
<br />
<br />
===Hero Pack 1===<br />
* Alchemist/Thaumaturge: Chests become potions (specialty), revive a companion (novice ultimate), revive 2 companions (master ultimate)<br />
<br />
* Archaeologist/Tomb Raider: Draw 2 treasure when forming the party and discard 6 treasrues in the end (specialty), draw and discard 2 treasures (novice ultimate), draw 2 treasures and discard 1 (master ultimate)<br />
<br />
* Dwarf/Berkerser: Start with 5 dice and reroll when champion defeats 2+ monsters (specialty), discard 1 monster for each champion and reroll all champions (novice ultimate), revive 4 companions but cannot retire unless defeating a dragon (master ultimate)<br />
<br />
* Leprechaun/Clurichaun: All poisons become chests but all treasures are discarded (specialty), transform 1 monster into a chest (novice ultimate), transform 2 monsters into a chest (master ultimate)<br />
<br />
* Scout/Dungeoneer: Assign dungeon dice to level 1-3 (specialty), reduce 1 level and retire immediately (novice ultimate), retire immediately (master ultimate)<br />
<br />
* Sorceress/Drake Kin: Discard all dragons when more than 3 (specialty), discard 1 monster for each dragon (novice ultimate), discard 1 type of monster for each dragon (master ultimate)<br />
<br />
* Tracker/Ranger: Reroll 1 goblin once per level (specialty), discard 1 monster of any type (novice ultimate), discard 1 monster of each type (master ultimate)<br />
<br />
* Viking/Undead Viking: Take 5 champions instead of rolling (novice specialty), novice + all skeletons becomes potions (master specialty), discard all dragon dice (ultimate)<br />
<br />
<br />
===Promo===<br />
* Guild Leader/Guild Master: Start with 8 dice (specialty), set 1 party/dungeon dice (novice ultimate), set 1 party and dungeon dice (master ultimate)<br />
<br />
* Time Traveller/Time Lady: Set 1 dice of each type and 1 champion (specialty), discard 1 treasure to defeat a dragon (novice ultimate), discard 1 treasure or scroll to defeat a dragon (master ultimate)<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
! width=50% | Guild Leader<br />
! width=50% | Guild Master<br />
|-<br />
|Novice Specialty - When forming the party, roll 8 party dice instead of 7.<br />
|Master Specialty - When forming the party, roll 8 party dice instead of 7.<br />
|-<br />
|Novice Ultimate - Calling in a Favor: Set 1 party die OR 1 dungeon die to any face.<br />
|Master Ultimate - Reinforcements: Set 1 party die AND 1 dungeon die to any face.<br />
|}<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
! width=50% | Time Traveller<br />
! width=50% | Time Lady<br />
|-<br />
|Novice Specialty - When forming the party, instead of rolling, set each of the die faces so you have one each of cleric, fighter, mage, thief, and scroll plus two champions.<br />
|Master Specialty - When forming the party, instead of rolling, set each of the die faces so you have one each of cleric, fighter, mage, thief, and scroll plus two champions.<br />
|-<br />
|Novice Ultimate - Future Technology: Discard one of your treasures to defeat a Dragon.<br />
|Master Ultimate - Super-sonic Future Technology: Discard one of your treasures or a scroll to defeat a Dragon.<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===Hero Pack 2===<br />
* Alexandra, Keeper of Knowledge: Scrolls used as champions and any companion used as scrolls (specialty), discard 1 scroll to defeat a dragon (ultimate)<br />
<br />
* Amar-Suen, King of the Ancients: Thieves defeat 1 additional monster (specialty), discard all monsters of 1 type and draw 1 treasure per discarded monster (ultimate)<br />
<br />
* Cassandra, the Cursed: Begin each delve exhausted and all companions defeat 1 extra monster when exhausted. When quaffing potions, refresh (specialty), discard 1 potion or 1 chest (ultimate)<br />
<br />
* Lord Yllavyre, Dragon Lord: Set 2 dice to scrolls and discard a scroll to turn a monster to dragon, refresh when facing 3 types (specialty), all dragons become companions and defeat 1 monster or open 1 chest (ultimate)<br />
<br />
* Marpesia, Amazon Queen: Requires 4 dices to summon the dragon and champions kill 1 monster or open 1 chest (specialty), roll all dice from the graveyard, discard scrolls and add the rest to your party (ultimate)<br />
<br />
* Szopin, Infamous Warlord: Refresh when defeating 2+ monsters with 1 companion (specialty), discard 2 dungeon dice (ultimate)<br />
<br />
* Tou'lak, Minotaur Chieftain: May reroll 1 monster each level (specialty), discard all monsters (ultimate)<br />
<br />
* Tristan, Lone Mercenary: Draw 1 treasure when defeating 2+ monsters with 1 companion, use 1 treasure to refresh (specialty), reroll any number of dungeon dice (ultimate)<br />
<br />
==End of Game==<br />
The game ends after each player has had 3 delves. The player with the highest total experience is the winner! In the case of a tie, the tied player with the fewest treasure tokens is the winner. If still tied, the tied players rejoice in a shared victory.<br />
<br />
When playing with solo mode. Play three rounds with the normal rules and go for the best score. Ranking of scores is as follows:<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable"<br />
! width=30% | Points<br />
! width=50% | Title<br />
|-<br />
|0-15<br />
|Dragon fodder<br />
|-<br />
|16-23<br />
|Village Hero<br />
|-<br />
|24-29<br />
|Seasoned Explorer<br />
|-<br />
|30-34<br />
|Champion<br />
|-<br />
|35+<br />
|Hero of Ages<br />
|}</div>Felipe1982http://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_sushigo&diff=8570Tips sushigo2021-06-22T12:01:57Z<p>Felipe1982: /* Get tunnel vision over your own board */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Do’s==<br />
===Look at what your opponents are drafting=== <br />
In particular, look to see if they need to have sets completed, whether it’s a set of the 10-point Sashimi or a full collection of Dumplings. When you pay attention to the cards they’ve drafted, you might be able to find opportunities to deny them the cards they need to maximize their points from sets.<br />
<br />
===Aim for a card to point ratio above 2 if possible=== <br />
In Sushi Go, the name of the game is efficiency. Every card you pick needs to either give you a strong advantage or deny your opponents from scoring a boatload of points. As you play Sushi Go!, try to score at least 2 points for every card you draft. If you can hit this goal, you’ll give yourself a very good chance at winning.<br />
<br />
===Balance your priorities between point scoring and denial===<br />
Remember that when you play Sushi Go, winning by 5 points is the same thing as winning by 1 point. If you’re in the lead, your goal should be to protect that lead, whether that’s by making sure you don’t come in last in the Pudding race or making sure that no one gets away with collecting many points from Maki rolls or Sashimi cards.<br />
<br />
===Get lots of puddings===<br />
Another tip is to get lots of puddings during the first round, then get a bunch of points the other 2 rounds. But when you are playing the pudding cards you still want points right? That's where wasabi comes in handy because if you play one before a nigiri that nigiri will triple!<br />
<br />
==Don’ts==<br />
<br />
===Get tunnel vision over your own board===<br />
Focusing on just you is the biggest pitfall you can make in this game. If you’re just looking at your board and trying to maximize your own point values, you might let slip through a card or set of cards that can net your opponents more points than you. For example, that Sashimi might be worth 0 points to you, but 10 points to your opponent. Giving your opponent a 10-point card is like you losing 10 points. You’re not going to win that way.<br />
<br />
===Get into fights that you can’t win=== <br />
It can be tempting to get into fights for collecting Dumplings or a high quantity of cards like Maki Rolls cards. However, doing so can be a double-edged sword. Remember that Maki Rolls are worth 6 points. If you feel like you can grab first place with 3 Maki roll cards, do it because you still average 2 points per card. Or if you’re the only one collecting Dumplings, then go ahead. Any more than that and you may just be over-investing on those cards and miss out on other point opportunities.<br />
<br />
===Neglect the puddings===<br />
As you collect those Dumplings, the Tempura, and even the occasional Wasabi/Squid nigiri combo, you might be tempted to pass over the Puddings, those cards that really don’t have an impact until the end of the game. Forget about them at your peril, because if you suddenly find yourself having the fewest Puddings, you’ll be seeing a 12 point swing in someone else’s favor, which can cause you to lose the lead entirely.<br />
<br />
==Drafting Tips==<br />
* Beware of last picks. When there are 1 more cards then the number of players, one of the cards will be your last pick. Plan around that.<br />
* Try to remember all the cards or the cards you really want. If you do, you have perfect information after you have seen all the packs.<br />
* Count the puddings. In a 4-player game 88% of the cards are used. So you can plan according to the concentration.<br />
* If you have a lot of maki, keep track of the makis in the pool and only take what's needed.<br />
* Between wasabi and chopsticks, wasabi is more of high-stake-high-reward and chopsticks is more stable. It depends on your style.<br />
<br />
==Review of All Cards==<br />
* Nigiri: Squid is an excellent first pick. It is nearly as strong as sashimi. Salmon is excellent, but probably not good enough to be a first pick. Egg nigiri is terrible, since even if some items are 0 points, it can block your opponent.<br />
* Maki: It is at most 6 points. If you draft a 3 maki early it may worth 6 points itself, which is a great investment. Do note that each maki you draft reduces the average score of maki!<br />
* Dumplings: It is about 3 points at most per card. It is a bit like a trap although it must score. Therefore, you shouldn't collect dumplings unless you are sure that you collect 4. However, never pick this as first pick unless there are 3 or more dumplings in your hand.<br />
* Tempura: It is about 2.5 points per card, but its consistency makes it a decent pick. You can frequently manage to grab tempura without giving opponents an opportunity to block you. However, it is worse than wasabi, chopsticks, 3 maki and squid as first pick.<br />
* Sashimi: It is about 3.3 points per card, but it's also a trap! Tt is easy for other players to block you from getting the third one. It only costs an opponent a single dead card to create a pair of dead cards for you. Therefore, mostly avoid this and rarely pick this first.<br />
* Chopsticks: Usually pick this first since a combo of 3-6 points can be granted with this, which is deadly!<br />
* Wasabi: Always pick it first since the odds of getting squid or salmon later is high. It's potential value is about 3 to 4.5.<br />
* Pudding: It goes up in value as the game processes. You can draft a lot of them in first round as everyone fights for it in later rounds. In round 2, pick it first if it makes you first or puts you out of last. In round 3, don't draft it unless you are fighting for most puddings.<br />
<br />
==Credits==<br />
* The parts of dos and don'ts are based on www.myboardgameguides.com.<br />
* The parts of drafting and review of all cards are based on argeeordie.com/sushi-go-strategy-guide/.<br />
* If you have any other suggestions, feel free to leave your own tips so that other players can learn and get better at the game!</div>Felipe1982http://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/index.php?title=Tips_sushigo&diff=8569Tips sushigo2021-06-22T12:01:30Z<p>Felipe1982: /* Balance your priorities between point scoring and denial */</p>
<hr />
<div>==Do’s==<br />
===Look at what your opponents are drafting=== <br />
In particular, look to see if they need to have sets completed, whether it’s a set of the 10-point Sashimi or a full collection of Dumplings. When you pay attention to the cards they’ve drafted, you might be able to find opportunities to deny them the cards they need to maximize their points from sets.<br />
<br />
===Aim for a card to point ratio above 2 if possible=== <br />
In Sushi Go, the name of the game is efficiency. Every card you pick needs to either give you a strong advantage or deny your opponents from scoring a boatload of points. As you play Sushi Go!, try to score at least 2 points for every card you draft. If you can hit this goal, you’ll give yourself a very good chance at winning.<br />
<br />
===Balance your priorities between point scoring and denial===<br />
Remember that when you play Sushi Go, winning by 5 points is the same thing as winning by 1 point. If you’re in the lead, your goal should be to protect that lead, whether that’s by making sure you don’t come in last in the Pudding race or making sure that no one gets away with collecting many points from Maki rolls or Sashimi cards.<br />
<br />
===Get lots of puddings===<br />
Another tip is to get lots of puddings during the first round, then get a bunch of points the other 2 rounds. But when you are playing the pudding cards you still want points right? That's where wasabi comes in handy because if you play one before a nigiri that nigiri will triple!<br />
<br />
==Don’ts==<br />
<br />
===Get tunnel vision over your own board===<br />
Focusing on just you is the biggest pitfall you can make in this game. If you’re just looking at your board and trying to maximize your own point values, you might let slip through a card or set of cards that can net your opponents more points than you. For example, that Sashimi might be worth 0 points to you, but 10 points to your opponent. Giving your opponent a 10-point card is like you losing 10 points. You’re not gonna win that way.<br />
<br />
===Get into fights that you can’t win=== <br />
It can be tempting to get into fights for collecting Dumplings or a high quantity of cards like Maki Rolls cards. However, doing so can be a double-edged sword. Remember that Maki Rolls are worth 6 points. If you feel like you can grab first place with 3 Maki roll cards, do it because you still average 2 points per card. Or if you’re the only one collecting Dumplings, then go ahead. Any more than that and you may just be over-investing on those cards and miss out on other point opportunities.<br />
<br />
===Neglect the puddings===<br />
As you collect those Dumplings, the Tempura, and even the occasional Wasabi/Squid nigiri combo, you might be tempted to pass over the Puddings, those cards that really don’t have an impact until the end of the game. Forget about them at your peril, because if you suddenly find yourself having the fewest Puddings, you’ll be seeing a 12 point swing in someone else’s favor, which can cause you to lose the lead entirely.<br />
<br />
==Drafting Tips==<br />
* Beware of last picks. When there are 1 more cards then the number of players, one of the cards will be your last pick. Plan around that.<br />
* Try to remember all the cards or the cards you really want. If you do, you have perfect information after you have seen all the packs.<br />
* Count the puddings. In a 4-player game 88% of the cards are used. So you can plan according to the concentration.<br />
* If you have a lot of maki, keep track of the makis in the pool and only take what's needed.<br />
* Between wasabi and chopsticks, wasabi is more of high-stake-high-reward and chopsticks is more stable. It depends on your style.<br />
<br />
==Review of All Cards==<br />
* Nigiri: Squid is an excellent first pick. It is nearly as strong as sashimi. Salmon is excellent, but probably not good enough to be a first pick. Egg nigiri is terrible, since even if some items are 0 points, it can block your opponent.<br />
* Maki: It is at most 6 points. If you draft a 3 maki early it may worth 6 points itself, which is a great investment. Do note that each maki you draft reduces the average score of maki!<br />
* Dumplings: It is about 3 points at most per card. It is a bit like a trap although it must score. Therefore, you shouldn't collect dumplings unless you are sure that you collect 4. However, never pick this as first pick unless there are 3 or more dumplings in your hand.<br />
* Tempura: It is about 2.5 points per card, but its consistency makes it a decent pick. You can frequently manage to grab tempura without giving opponents an opportunity to block you. However, it is worse than wasabi, chopsticks, 3 maki and squid as first pick.<br />
* Sashimi: It is about 3.3 points per card, but it's also a trap! Tt is easy for other players to block you from getting the third one. It only costs an opponent a single dead card to create a pair of dead cards for you. Therefore, mostly avoid this and rarely pick this first.<br />
* Chopsticks: Usually pick this first since a combo of 3-6 points can be granted with this, which is deadly!<br />
* Wasabi: Always pick it first since the odds of getting squid or salmon later is high. It's potential value is about 3 to 4.5.<br />
* Pudding: It goes up in value as the game processes. You can draft a lot of them in first round as everyone fights for it in later rounds. In round 2, pick it first if it makes you first or puts you out of last. In round 3, don't draft it unless you are fighting for most puddings.<br />
<br />
==Credits==<br />
* The parts of dos and don'ts are based on www.myboardgameguides.com.<br />
* The parts of drafting and review of all cards are based on argeeordie.com/sushi-go-strategy-guide/.<br />
* If you have any other suggestions, feel free to leave your own tips so that other players can learn and get better at the game!</div>Felipe1982